Chicken and Mushroom Paprikás Crêpes

This is a rich retro dish that I find so satisfying. Because the main flavoring here is paprika, be sure yours is very fresh. If you’re at all suspicious of the container you’ve got in your cupboard, go ahead and buy a new one. If you have a grocery store near you with a bulk spice section, buy the paprika there; it’s nice to buy only what you need for the recipe. As a variation, you can use half sweet paprika and half smoked paprika (pimentón de la Vera). I like to serve these with a sliced Belgian endive salad dressed with a simple vinaigrette made with walnut oil.

Makes 8 filled crêpes; serves 4 as a main course

1 tbsp unsalted butter, plus more for the baking dish

1 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

3½ cups/280 g sliced cremini or white button mushrooms (¼-in/6-mm thick)

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

cup/55 g finely diced fresh mild chile, such as Anaheim, or a red, yellow, or orange bell pepper

¼ cup/35 g thinly sliced shallot or minced onion

2 tbsp sweet paprika, preferably Hungarian, plus more for sprinkling

¼ tsp caraway seeds

½ cup/120 ml lower-sodium chicken broth

½ cup/120 ml crème fraîche or sour cream

2 cups/225 g shredded cooked chicken (rotisserie chicken works great here)

8 Versatile or Buckwheat Crêpes or your choice

¼ cup/15 g finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano or Gruyère

Heat the butter and olive oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat until sizzling. Add the mushrooms, season them with ½ tsp salt and a few grinds of pepper, and cook, stirring and shaking the pan frequently, until the mushrooms have released much of their moisture, are beginning to brown around the edges, and are very fragrant, 4 to 6 minutes.

Add the chile and shallot and cook until they are also soft and fragrant, another 3 to 5 minutes.

Stir in the paprika and caraway seeds and cook, stirring, until you can smell the spices, 30 seconds. Add the broth and let it come to a simmer, stirring and scraping up any browned bits on the bottom of the pan. Simmer for about 1 minute to slightly reduce the sauce.

Spoon about 2 tbsp of the crème fraîche into a small bowl and set it aside. Add the remaining crème fraîche to the pan and stir to combine. Let the filling simmer for a few seconds to heat through and thicken slightly, and then add the chicken and let it heat through. Remove from the heat, taste the filling, and add more salt or pepper, if you like. Cover the filling to keep it warm. (Or, if making the filling ahead of time, store it in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 3 days. Reheat the filling over medium-low heat.)

Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 425°F/220°C/gas 7. Butter the bottom of a 7-x-11-in/17-x-28-cm baking dish.

Lay the crêpes presentation-side down on a clean work surface. Spoon an equal amount of filling onto the bottom third of each crêpe. To fold the crêpes, pull the bottom edge of each crêpe up and over the filling, then roll it up a half turn. Tuck in each side, and finish rolling up from the bottom. Arrange the crêpes seam-side down in a single layer in the prepared baking dish. They should be snugged in tightly together. Spread a scant 1 tsp of the reserved crème fraîche over the top of each crêpe, and then sprinkle them with the Parmigiano and a dash of paprika. Bake until the topping is golden and bubbling a bit, about 15 minutes. Serve right away.