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Accommodations

Guesthouses, Hostels & Hotels

Guatemalan accommodations range from luxury hotels to budget hotels to ultrabudget guesthouses called hospedajes, casas de huéspedes or pensiones.

Places at the lower end of the budget range are generally small, dark and not particularly clean. Security may not be the best in such places. At the upper end of the budget range you should expect a clean, sizable and airy room, with a bathroom, TV and, in hot parts of the country, a fan (and possibly air-con).

Hostels are becoming more prevalent throughout Guatemala, particularly in tourist hotspots such as Antigua, Flores and Lanquín. While sleeping arrangements in these places can be fairly bare-bones (a bunch of bunk beds crammed into a room), facilities often include onsite bars and restaurants, tour services, swimming pools and other top-shelf amenities. They're also a great place to meet other travelers.

Midrange rooms are almost always comfortable: private hot-water bathroom, TV, decent beds, fan and/or air-con are standard. Good midrange hotels often have attractive public areas such as dining rooms, bars and swimming pools.

Top-end accommodation in Guatemala mainly consists of Guatemala City's international-class, business-oriented hotels, Antigua's very finest hostelries, and a few resort hotels elsewhere. These places offer all the comforts (and many more) that you would expect for the price.

Room rates often go up in places popular with tourists during Semana Santa (the week leading up to Easter Sunday), over Christmas and New Year, and in July and August. Semana Santa is the major Guatemalan holiday period, and prices can rise by anything from 30% to 100% in Antigua, on the coast and in the countryside – anywhere Guatemalans go to relax. At this time advance reservations are a very good idea.

Regardless of your budget, if you're planning on staying for longer than a few days, it's worth asking for a discount.

Be aware that room rates are subject to two large taxes – 12% IVA (value-added tax) and 10% to pay for the activities of the Guatemalan Tourism Institute (Inguat). All prices listed include both taxes. Some of the more expensive hotels forget to include them when they quote their prices.

Sleeping Price Ranges

The following price ranges refer to a double room with bathroom in high (but not absolute peak) season. Unless otherwise stated, taxes of 22% are included in the price.

Category	Cost
$	less than Q200
$$	Q200–Q550
$$$	more than Q550

Camping

Camping in Guatemala can be a hit-or-miss affair as there are few designated campgrounds and safety is rarely guaranteed. Where campsites are available, expect to pay from Q20 to Q50 per person per night.

Homestays

Travelers attending Spanish school have the option of living with a Guatemalan family. This is usually a pretty good bargain – expect to pay between Q300 and Q600 a week on top of your tuition for your own room, a shared bathroom, and three meals a day except Sunday. It's important to find a homestay that gels with your goals – some families host several students at a time, creating more of an international hostel atmosphere than a family environment.

Children

Young children are highly regarded in Guatemala and can often break down barriers and open doors to local hospitality. However, Guatemala is so culturally dense, with such an emphasis on history and archaeology, that children can easily get bored. To keep kids entertained, try to make a point of breaking up the trip with visits to places such as Guatemala City's Museo de los Niños and La Aurora Zoo, Autosafari Chapín, and Retalhuleu's Xocomil water park and Xetulul theme park. Most Spanish schools are open to kids, too, and many older children will enjoy activities such as zip lining, kayaking and horseback riding.

For general information on traveling with children, have a look at Lonely Planet’s Travel with Children.

Customs Regulations

Normally customs officers won't look seriously in your luggage and may not look at all. Guatemala restricts import/export of pretty much the same things as everybody else (weapons, drugs, large amounts of cash, etc).

Electricity

Electrical current is 115V to 125V, 60Hz, and plugs are two flat prongs, all the same as in the US and Canada.

Embassies & Consulates

Citizens from countries that do not have embassies generally end up having to go to Mexico City (unless the consulate can be of help).

Australian Honorary Consulate ( GOOGLE MAP ; %2328-0300; sdr@australianconsulate.com.gt; 2a Calle 23-80, Edificio Avante, Oficina 701, Zona 15)

Belizean Embassy ( GOOGLE MAP ; %2367-3883; www.embajadadebelize.org; 5a Av 5-55, Europlaza 2, Office 1502, Zona 14, Guatemala City)

Canadian Embassy ( GOOGLE MAP ; %2363-4348; www.guatemala.gc.ca; 13a Calle 8-44, 8th fl, Edificio Edyma Plaza, Zona 10, Guatemala City)

French Embassy ( GOOGLE MAP ; %2421-7370; www.ambafrance-gt.org; 5a Av 8-59, Zona 14, Guatemala City)

German Embassy ( GOOGLE MAP ; %2364-6700; www.guatemala.diplo.de; Avenida La Reforma 9-55, Edificio Reforma 10, 10th fl, Zona 10, Guatemala City)

Honduran Consulate ( GOOGLE MAP ; %2332-6281; embhond@intelnet.net.gt; Av La Reforma 6-64, Zona 9, Guatemala City)

Irish Honorary Consulate ( GOOGLE MAP ; %5353-5349; irelandgua@gmail.com; 19a Av, Zona 15, Guatemala City)

Mexican Embassy ( GOOGLE MAP ; %2420-3400; www.embamex.sre.gob.mx/guatemala; 2a Av 7-57, Zona 10, Guatemala City)

Netherlands Consulate ( GOOGLE MAP ; %2296-1490; guatemala@nlconsulate.com; Carretera a El Salvador Km 14.5, Santa Catarina Pinula)

Salvadoran Embassy ( GOOGLE MAP ; %2245-7272; www.embajadaguatemala.rree.gob.sv; 15a Av 12-01, Zona 13, Guatemala City)

UK Embassy ( GOOGLE MAP ; %2380-7300; www.ukinguatemala.fco.gov.uk; 16a Calle 0-55, 11th fl, Torre Internacional, Zona 10, Guatemala City)

US Embassy ( GOOGLE MAP ; %2326-4000; http://guatemala.usembassy.gov; Av La Reforma 7-01, Zona 10, Guatemala City)

Food

What you eat in Guatemala will be a mixture of Guatemalan food, which is nutritious and filling without sending your taste buds into ecstasy, and international traveler-and-tourist food, which is available wherever travelers and tourists hang out. Your most satisfying meals in both cases will probably be in smaller eateries where the boss is in the kitchen themselves.

EATING PRICE RANGES

The following price ranges refer to a standard main course, including taxes but not including tip.

Category	Cost
$	less than Q50
$$	Q50–Q150
$$$	more than Q150

GLBTI Travelers

Few places in Latin America are outwardly gay-friendly and Guatemala is no different. Technically, homosexuality is legal for persons over 18 years, but the reality can be another story, with harassment and violence against gays too often poisoning the plot. Don't even consider testing the tolerance for homosexual public displays of affection here.

Though Antigua has a palatable – if subdued – scene, affection and action are still kept behind closed doors; the chief exception is the gay-friendly club La Casbah. In Guatemala City, Genetic and the Black & White Lounge are the current faves. Mostly, though, gays traveling in Guatemala will find themselves keeping it low-key and pushing the twin beds together.

Gay.com has a personals section for Guatemala, and the Gully (www.thegully.com) usually has some articles and information relevant to Guatemala. The best site, Gay Guatemala (www.gayguatemala.com), is in Spanish.

Health

Staying healthy in Guatemala involves some common-sense precautions and a few destination-specific ones.

Before You Go

Health Insurance

Despite relatively low costs for health care, it is generally recommended that travelers to Guatemala take out travel insurance, which almost always covers medical costs. Check your policy carefully to see what is and is not covered before buying.

Vaccinations

Discuss your requirements with your doctor, but the vaccines that are usually recommended for travel to Central America are hepatitis A and B and typhoid. If you are planning to spend time handling animals or exploring caves, consider getting vaccinated for rabies.

In Guatemala

Availability & Cost of Health Care

Larger towns have both public (cheap, with long waiting times) and private (expensive, but faster) hospitals, often with doctors who speak at least a little English. In smaller towns there will be a health clinic, and in villages there is usually a doctor. Guatemala City naturally has the best range of health services in the country.

Health care is relatively cheap in Guatemala (around Q25 for a standard doctor’s consultation).

While 'medical tourism' is taking off in Guatemala (dentistry, for example, is a serious bargain compared to what you will pay elsewhere), if you have a serious complaint that does not require immediate attention, consider returning to your home country for treatment.

Healthy Eating

By far the most common health issue that travelers to Guatemala experience is stomach-related. This can range from serious diseases such as cholera to simple cases of diarrhea. Watch what you eat, drink and generally put in your mouth. Here are a few simple guidelines to keep you out of the bathroom and on the road:

Wash your hands thoroughly before eating or touching your face.

Eat only in places that appear to be clean (conditions in the dining room are sometimes a good indicator of what’s going on in the kitchen).

To ensure the food you eat is fresh and freshly cooked, eat only in busy places around mealtimes.

Peel, cook or disinfect fruits and vegetables.

Be very selective when it comes to street food.

Avoid tap water unless it has been boiled thoroughly or disinfected. Ice in more expensive restaurants is made from purified water, but order drinks without it if you want to be really cautious.

If you do get sick and it lasts longer than a few days, take a stool sample to the laboratory (even the smallest towns have them) for analysis. You’ll get a possibly alarming readout of exactly what kinds of bugs you have. Any pharmacist will be able to use the readout to prescribe the appropriate medicine.

Mosquitoes

Mosquitoes can transmit two serious diseases: malaria and dengue fever. Malaria tablets are available and recommended if you are planning to travel in rural areas at altitudes lower than 1500m, especially in the rainy season (June to November). It’s worth noting that there is no malaria risk in Antigua or around Lake Atitlán. The best prevention against mosquito-borne diseases is to avoid getting bitten. In high-risk areas this means a DEET–based insect repellent (bring one from home), long sleeves and pant legs, avoiding being outside around sunrise and sunset, and checking window screens and mosquito nets in hotel rooms for holes.

Zika Virus

In late 2015 it was reported that the Zika virus had reached Guatemala, and by early 2016 there were over 100 confirmed cases. Also spread by mosquitoes, Zika's symptoms include fever, rash, joint pain and red eyes, and sufferers tend to recover after a week or so. Complications for pregnant women and infants are more serious – see the Center for Disease Control website (www.cdc.gov) for details. As with other mosquito-borne diseases, the best prevention is not getting bitten.

Tap Water

While many Guatemalans drink the tap water (often through necessity rather than choice), it is not recommended that foreigners do so. Purified water is cheap and readily available in tourist areas and many back-country regions as well, and picking up a stomach bug is no fun.

Insurance

Getting travel insurance to cover theft, loss and medical problems is recommended. Some policies specifically exclude dangerous activities, which can include scuba diving, motorcycling and even trekking.

You may prefer a policy that pays doctors or hospitals directly, rather than you having to pay on the spot and claim later. If you have to claim later, ensure you keep all documentation.

Check that the policy covers ambulances or an emergency flight home.

Worldwide travel insurance is available at www.lonelyplanet.com/travel-insurance. You can buy, extend and claim online anytime – even if you’re already on the road.

Internet Access

Most travelers make constant use of internet cafes and free web-based email. Most towns have cybercafes with fairly reliable connections. Internet cafes typically charge between Q5 and Q10 an hour.

Wi-fi is becoming readily available across the country, but can only really be counted on in large and/or tourist towns. Most (but not all) hostels offer wi-fi, as do many hotels in the midrange and up category. The best reliable source of wi-fi around the country is at Pollo Campero restaurants – they're in pretty much every town of any size and all offer free, unsecured access.

Language Courses

Guatemala is celebrated for its many language schools. A spot of study here is a great way not only to learn Spanish, but also to meet locals and get an inside angle on the culture. Many travelers heading south through Central America to South America make Guatemala an early stop so they can pick up the Spanish skills they need for their trip.

Guatemalan language schools are some of the cheapest in the world, but few people go away disappointed. There are so many schools to choose from that it's essential to check out a few before deciding.

You can start any day at most schools, and study for as long as you like. If you're coming in peak season and hoping to get into one of the more popular schools, it's a good idea to book ahead, although many schools charge around Q380 for phone or internet reservations. All decent schools offer a variety of elective activities, from salsa classes to movies to volcano hikes. Many schools offer classes in Maya languages as well as Spanish.

Where to Study

Antigua is the most popular place to study. Quetzaltenango is second, perhaps attracting a more serious type of student; Antigua has a livelier students' and travelers' social scene. Outside of these areas, there are Spanish schools scattered across the country. Schools charge from Q1500 to Q2400 for four hours of one-on-one classes five days a week and accommodation with a local family.

Studying in a small town has its pros and cons. On the upside, you may be the only foreigner around, so you won't be speaking any English. On the downside, Spanish may be the second language of the inhabitants of the village (including your teacher), meaning that you could pick up all sorts of bad habits.

Choosing a School

Choosing between the mass of Spanish schools in Guatemala can be tough. Many schools don't have in-house teacher training programs, so there aren't so many 'good schools' as there are 'good teachers.' It's best to pay for as little time as possible (a week, usually) so you can change if you're really unhappy. You should be completely up-front about what your goals (conversation, grammar, vocabulary etc) are when starting, as well as any specialized interests that you have (politics, medical, legal etc) so the school can design a curriculum and assign you a teacher to best suit your needs. If you end up liking the school, but not the teacher, ask for a new teacher as soon as possible – personality conflicts occur, and four or five hours of one-on-one with someone you don't like can soon turn into hard work.

Here are some questions to think about when you're looking at schools. Some you can find out just by turning up, some you should ask the school, others you'll have to talk to current and ex-students to get a feel for.

Where do the classes take place – on a quiet, shaded patio or in hot classrooms with buses roaring along the street outside?

What experience and qualifications do the teachers have in teaching a second language?

Is Spanish your teacher's first language?

What afternoon and evening activities are available?

Many schools offer gimmicks to get you in, like a half hour of free internet per day, which ends up saving you around Q3 per day – should these little perks really sway your judgment?

What is the general atmosphere of the school? Serious students probably won't fit in at a school whose activities include all-night bar crawls, and party animals may feel out of place at schools with names like the Christian Spanish Academy.

Does the school offer opportunities for voluntary work – for example, visiting hospitals?

If the school claims to be involved in social/community projects, is it a serious commitment, or just a marketing ploy?

For (completely unverified) reviews of some of Guatemala's Spanish schools by ex-students, check out www.guatemala365.com.

Legal Matters

You may find that police officers in Guatemala are, at times, somewhat unhelpful. Generally speaking, the less you have to do with the law, the better.

Whatever you do, don't get involved in any way with illegal drugs – even if the locals seem to do so freely. As a foreigner you are at a distinct disadvantage and you may be set up by others. Drug laws in Guatemala are strict, and though enforcement may be uneven, penalties are severe. If you do get caught doing something you shouldn't, your best line of defense is to apologize, stay calm and proceed from there.

While many commentators claim that corruption is rife in Guatemala, don't take this to mean you can buy your way out of any situation. If it does seem that you can 'make everything go away' by handing over some cash, proceed cautiously and tactfully.

Money

Guatemala's currency, the quetzal (ket-sahl, abbreviated to Q), has been fairly stable at around Q7.5 = US$1 for years, with fluctuations owing more to the unstable dollar than to movements in the quetzal. The quetzal is divided into 100 centavos.

ATMs

You'll find ATMs (cash machines, cajeros automáticos) for Visa/Plus System cards in all but the smallest towns, and there are MasterCard/Cirrus ATMs in many places, too, so one of these cards is the best basis for your supply of cash in Guatemala. The 5B network is widespread and particularly useful, as it works with both Visa and MasterCard cards.

Be aware that card skimming is a problem in Guatemala. Avoid ATMs that are left unguarded at night (ie those in the small room out front of the bank) and look for one that is in a secure environment (such as those inside supermarkets or shopping malls). Failing that, keep your hand covered when entering your PIN and check your balance online.

Cash

Cash is king in Guatemala, although carrying too much of it makes getting robbed a bigger pain than it would otherwise be. Some towns suffer from change shortages: always try to carry a stash of small bills. Keep a small supply of low-denomination US dollars (which are accepted pretty much anywhere, at various rates of exchange) as an emergency fund.

While everybody accepts dollars, you will almost always get a better deal by paying in quetzals.

Currencies other than the US dollar are virtually useless, although a small handful of places now change cash euros.

Credit Cards

Many banks give cash advances on Visa cards, and some on MasterCard. You can pay for many purchases with these cards or with American Express (Amex) cards – particularly in higher-end hotels and restaurants. Paying with credit card can attract a service charge of up to 5% – be sure to ask if there is a recargo (transaction fee).

Tipping

A 10% tip is expected in restaurants (often automatically added to your bill in tourist towns such as Antigua). In small comedores (basic, cheap eateries) tipping is optional, but follow local practice and leave some spare change.

Homestays Better to buy a gift than give cash

Hotels Q10 per bag

Restaurants 10% maximum (if not already included)

Taxis Not customary

Trekking & tour guides Q50 per person per day (extremely optional)

Travelers Checks

If you're not packing plastic, a combination of Amex US-dollar traveler's checks and some cash US dollars is the way to go. Take some of these as a backup even if you do have a card. Many banks change US-dollar traveler's checks, and tend to give the best rates. Amex is easily the most recognized traveler's check brand. Few businesses will accept traveler's checks as payment or change them for cash.

Opening Hours

Hours provided are general guidelines, but there are many variations. Restaurant times, in particular, can vary by up to two hours either way.

The Ley Seca (dry law) stipulates that bars and discotecas must close by 1am, except on nights before public holidays; it is rigidly followed in large cities and universally mocked in smaller towns.

Banks 9am–5pm Monday to Friday, 9am–1pm Saturday

Bars 11am–midnight

Cafes & Restaurants 7am–9pm

Government offices 8am–4pm Monday to Friday

Shops 8am–noon and 2pm–6pm Monday to Saturday

Photography

Photography is a sensitive subject in Guatemala. Always ask permission before taking portraits, especially of Maya women and children. Don't be surprised if your request is denied. Children often request payment (usually Q1) in return for posing. In certain places, such as the church of Santo Tomás in Chichicastenango, photography is forbidden. Maya ceremonies (should you be so lucky to witness one) are off-limits for photography unless you are given explicit permission to take pictures. If local people make any sign of being offended, put your camera away and apologize immediately, both out of decency and for your own safety. Never take photos of army installations, men with guns or other sensitive military subjects.

Post

The Guatemalan postal service was privatized in 1999. Generally, letters and parcels take eight to 10 days to travel to the US and Canada and 10 to 12 days to reach Europe. Almost all cities and towns (but not villages) have a post office where you can buy stamps and send mail. If you want to get a package couriered to you, make sure the courier company has an office in the town where you are staying; otherwise you will be charged some hefty 'handling fees.'

Public Holidays

Guatemalan public holidays include the following:

New Year's Day (Año Nuevo) January 1

Easter (Semana Santa; Holy Thursday to Easter Sunday inclusive) March/April

Labor Day (Día del Trabajo) May 1

Army Day (Día del Ejército) June 30

Assumption Day (Día de la Asunción) August 15

Independence Day (Día de la Independencia) September 15

Revolution Day (Día de la Revolución) October 20

All Saints' Day (Día de Todos los Santos) November 1

Christmas Eve afternoon (Víspera Navidad) December 24

Christmas Day (Navidad) December 25

New Year's Eve afternoon (Víspera de Año Nuevo) December 31

Safe Travel

While crime definitely happens in Guatemala, and definitely happens to tourists, these days the most frequently reported type of nasty incident involves robbery on walking trails.

The days of robbers targeting tourist buses out on the open highway seem to be thankfully in the past, although some tourists in rental cars have been targeted. This information is incredibly fluid – check with Proatur (%in English 1500) for the latest.

The crime you're most likely to become a victim of involves pickpocketing, bag-snatching, bag-slitting and the like in crowded streets, markets, bus stations and on buses, but also in empty, dark city streets.

REPORTING A CRIME

Reporting a crime is always a toss-up in Guatemala. If you're the victim of something really serious, of course you should take it to the police – the phrase you're looking for here is 'Yo quisiera denunciar un crimen' (I'd like to report a crime). If you've been robbed, get a statement filed so you can show your insurance company.

If it's a minor thing, on the other hand, you might want to decide whether or not it's really worth your while reporting it to the police.

Specially trained tourist police (often English speaking) operate in some major tourist areas – you can call them in Antigua and Guatemala City (Tourist Police; GOOGLE MAP ; %2232-0202; 11 Calle 12-06, Zona 1; h24hr).

Outside of those areas (and normal office hours) your best bet is to call Proatur, which operates a 24-hour nationwide toll-free hotline in English and Spanish. It can give you information and assistance, help deal with the police and even arrange a lawyer if need be.

Tips

It's best to travel and arrive in daylight hours. If that's not possible, travel at night using 1st-class buses and catch a taxi to your hotel once you arrive.

Only carry the money, cards, checks and valuables that you need. Leave the rest in a sealed, signed envelope in your hotel's safe, and obtain a receipt for the envelope.

Don't flaunt jewelry, cameras or valuable-looking watches. Keep your wallet or purse out of view.

On buses keep your important valuables with you, and keep a tight hold on them.

Use normal precautions when using ATMs (and be aware that card skimming is a reality here).

Hiking in large groups and/or with a police escort reduces the risk of robbery.

Resisting or trying to flee from robbers usually makes the situation worse.

Hiking on active volcanoes obviously has an element of risk. Get the latest story before you head out. In the wet season, hike in the morning before rain and possible thunderstorms set in.

Be careful, especially in rural areas, when talking to small children, always ask permission to take photographs, and generally try not to put yourself in any situation that might be misinterpreted.

Scams

One common scenario is for someone to spray ketchup or some other sticky liquid on your clothes. An accomplice then appears to help you clean up the mess and robs you in the process. Other methods of distraction, such as dropping a purse or coins, or someone appearing to faint, are also used by pickpockets and bag snatchers.

Regrettably, ATM card cloners have moved into Guatemala, targeting Guatemalans and foreigners alike. They operate by attaching a card reading device to the ATM (often inside the slot where you insert your card) and once they have your data, proceed to drain your account. There have been reports of card cloning in all the major tourist destinations. The only way to avoid it is to use ATMs that cannot be tampered with easily (inside supermarkets or shopping malls). The ATMs most prone to tampering are the ones in the little unlocked room at the front of a bank. Note that you should never have to enter your PIN number to gain access to an ATM room.

GOVERNMENT TRAVEL ADVICE

The following government websites offer travel advisories and information on current hot spots. Please bear in mind that these sites are updated occasionally and are obliged to err on the safe side – many, many travelers visit Guatemala and don't experience any of the reported problems.

Australian Department of Foreign Affairs (www.smartraveller.gov.au)

British Foreign Office (www.fco.gov.uk)

Canadian Department of Foreign Affairs (www.dfait-maeci.gc.ca)

US State Department (http://travel.state.gov)

Telephone

Guatemala has no area or city codes. Calling from other countries, you just dial the international access code (00 in most countries), then the Guatemala country code (502), then the eight-digit local number. Calling within Guatemala, just dial the eight-digit local number. The international access code from Guatemala is 00.

Many towns and cities frequented by tourists have privately run call offices where you can make international calls for reasonable rates.

Don't use the black phones placed strategically in tourist towns that say 'Press 2 to call the United States free!' This is a bait-and-switch scam; you put the call on your credit card and return home to find you have paid between US$8 and US$20 per minute.

Many travelers use an account such as Skype. If an internet cafe does not have Skype installed, it can usually be downloaded in a matter of minutes. If you're planning on using internet cafe computers to make calls, buy earbuds with a microphone attached before you leave – you can plug them into the front of most computers in the country.

Cell Phones

There are three cell companies in the country – Movistar (www.movistar.com.gt) tends to have the cheapest rates, with coverage limited to not much further than major cities, while Tigo (www.tigo.com.gt) and Claro (www.claro.com.gt) have the best coverage.

It's possible to bring your cell phone from home, have it 'unlocked' for use in Guatemala (this costs between Q50 and Q100 in Guatemala, depending on the make of the phone), then substitute your SIM card for a local one. This works on some phones and not others and there doesn't appear to be a logic behind it.

Guatemalan phone companies work on either 850, 900 or 1900 MHz frequencies – if you have a tri- or quad-band phone you should be OK. Compatibility issues, and the possibility of theft (cell phones are a pickpocket's delight) makes buying a cheap prepaid phone on arrival the most popular option.

Prepaid phones are available pretty much everywhere and cost around Q100 to Q150, often coming with Q100 or so in free calls. Cards to restock the credit on your phone are sold in nearly every corner store. Calls cost Q1.50 per minute anywhere in the country, the same for calls to the US (depending on the company you're with), and up to five times that for the rest of the world.

Phonecards

The most common street phones (although becoming increasingly rare as everybody goes cellular) are those of Telgua, for which you need to buy a Telgua phone card (tarjeta telefónica de Telgua) from shops, kiosks and the like. Card sales points may advertise the fact with red signs saying 'Ladatel de Venta Aquí.' The cards come in denominations of Q20, Q30 and Q50: you slot them into a Telgua phone, dial your number, and the display will tell you how much time you have left.

Telgua street phones bear instructions to dial 147110 for domestic collect calls and 147120 for international collect calls.

Time

Guatemala runs on North American Central Standard Time (GMT/UTC minus six hours). The 24-hour clock is often used, so 1pm may be written as 13 or 1300. When it is noon in Guatemala, it is 1pm in New York, 6pm in London, 10am in San Francisco and 4am the next day in Sydney. For more time conversions, see www.timeanddate.com/worldclock.

Toilets

You cannot throw anything into Guatemalan toilets, including toilet paper. Bathrooms are equipped with some sort of receptacle (usually a small wastebasket) for soiled paper.

Toilet paper is not always provided, so always carry some. If you don't have any and need some, asking a restaurant worker for un rollo de papel (a roll of paper), accompanied by a panicked facial expression, usually produces fast results.

Public toilets are rare. Use the ones at cafes, restaurants, your hotel and archaeological sites. Buses rarely have toilets on board and if they do, don't count on them working.

Tourist Information

Guatemala's national tourism institute, Inguat (www.visitguatemala.com), has information offices in major tourist areas. A few towns have departmental, municipal or private-enterprise tourist information offices. Proatur, a joint private-government initiative, operates a 24-hour toll-free advice and assistance hotline.

Travelers with Disabilities

Guatemala is not the easiest country to negotiate for travelers with a disability. Although many sidewalks in Antigua have ramps and cute little inlaid tiles depicting a wheelchair, the streets are cobblestone, so the ramps are anything but smooth and the streets worse!

Many hotels in Guatemala are old converted houses with rooms around a courtyard; such rooms are wheelchair accessible, but the bathrooms may not be. The most expensive hotels have facilities such as ramps, elevators and accessible toilets. Transportation is the biggest hurdle for travelers with limited mobility: travelers in a wheelchair may consider renting a car and driver as the buses will prove especially challenging due to lack of space.

Mobility International USA (www.miusa.org) advises travelers on mobility issues, runs exchange programs (including in Guatemala) and publishes some useful books. Also worth consulting are Access-Able Travel Source (www.access-able.com) and Accessible Journeys (www.disabilitytravel.com).

Antigua-based Transitions (www.transitionsfoundation.org) is an organization aiming to increase awareness and access for people with disabilities in Guatemala.

Download Lonely Planet's free Accessible Travel guide from http://lptravel.to/AccessibleTravel.

Visas

Citizens of the US, Canada, EU countries, Norway, Switzerland, Australia, New Zealand, Israel and Japan are among those who do not need a visa for tourist visits to Guatemala. On entry into Guatemala you will normally be given a 90-day stay. (The number '90' will be written in the stamp in your passport.)

Citizens of some Eastern European countries are among those who do need visas to visit Guatemala. Inquire at a Guatemalan embassy well in advance of travel.

In August of 2006 Guatemala joined the Centro America 4 (CA-4) trading agreement with Nicaragua, Honduras and El Salvador. Designed to facilitate the movement of people and goods around the region, it has one major effect on foreign visitors – upon entry to the CA-4 region, travelers are given a 90-day stay for the entire region. You can get this extended once, for an additional 90 days, for around Q120. The exact requirements change with each government, but here's how it was working in Guatemala at the time of writing: you needed to go to the Departamento de Extranjería, with all of the following:

Two black-and-white cédula-sized photos on matte paperA valid passportTwo copies of the photo page of your passport and one copy of the page with the entry stamp on itA credit (not debit) card with a photocopy of both of its sides (or US$400 worth of travelers' checks or a ticket out of the country or proof of flight reservation on travel agency letterhead, signed and sealed by a travel agent).

Extensions can take up to a week to process, but this period is also very flexible – it's worth asking about before you start the process.

If you have been in the CA-4 for your original 90 days and a 90-day extension, you must leave the region for 72 hours (Belize and Mexico are the most obvious, easiest options), after which you can return to the region to start all over again. Some foreigners have been repeating this cycle for years.

Visa regulations are subject to change – it's always worth checking with a Guatemalan embassy before you go.

Volunteering

If you want to get to the heart of Guatemalan matters, consider volunteer work. Opportunities abound, from caring for abandoned animals to writing grant applications to tending fields. Travelers with specific skills such as nurses, doctors, teachers and website designers are particularly encouraged to investigate volunteering in Guatemala.

Most volunteer posts require basic or better Spanish skills and a minimum time commitment. Depending on the organization, you may have to pay for room and board for the duration of your stay. Before making a commitment, you may want to talk to past volunteers and read the fine print associated with the position.

An excellent source of information on volunteer opportunities is Quetzaltenango-based EntreMundos. You only have to visit their website to see the huge range of volunteer opportunities that exist. Many language schools have close links to volunteer projects and can introduce you to the world of volunteering – this is often the best option if you are only looking to commit for a few weeks. The best worldwide site for volunteer positions (with many Guatemala listings) is www.idealist.org.

Women Travelers

Women should encounter no special problems traveling in Guatemala. The primary thing you can do to make it easy for yourself while traveling here is to dress modestly. Modesty in dress is highly regarded, and if you practice it, you will usually be treated with respect.

Specifically, shorts should be worn only at the beach, not in town, and especially not in the highlands. Skirts should be at or below the knee. Going braless is considered provocative. Many local women swim with T-shirts over their swimsuits.

Women traveling alone can expect plenty of attention from talkative men. Often they're just curious and not out for a foreign conquest. It is, of course, up to you how to respond, but there's no need to be intimidated. Consider the situation and circumstances, and stay confident. Try to sit next to women or children on the bus. Local women rarely initiate conversations, but usually have lots of interesting things to say once the ball is rolling.

While there's no need to be paranoid, the possibility of rape and assault does exist. Use your normal traveler's caution – avoid walking alone in isolated places or through city streets late at night, and skip hitchhiking.

Work

Some travelers find work in bars, restaurants and places to stay in Antigua, Panajachel or Quetzaltenango, but the wages are just survival pay. If you're looking to crew a yacht, there's always work being offered around the Río Dulce area, sometimes for short trips, sometimes to the States and further afield. Check noticeboards and online forums for details.