Finished block: 15″ × 15″ Finished quilt: 75″ × 75″ Made and machine quilted by Elizabeth Hartman
Blocks are sewn and sliced and sewn and sliced again for this quilt top, resulting in a striking woven look that is intricate without being fussy. Setting the blocks in a sea of neutral fabric gives the impression of artwork hanging in a gallery, while the quilt back features an eye-popping giant version of the single block.
I started with three multicolor prints that include cream, sea green, gold, gray, and chocolate brown. Then I filled out my selection with six coordinating monochromatic print and solid fabrics that highlight the multicolor prints without overpowering them or making the composition too busy.
Refer to Fabric and Design Vocabulary (page 120) for more about fabric selection.
My fabric choices for Metropolis
tip
When choosing a solid fabric to coordinate with a print, focus more on highlighting the colors in the print than on trying to match them exactly. Sometimes a solid fabric that is slightly different is more visually interesting.
Yardages are based on fabric that is at least 40″ wide, unless otherwise noted.
2¼ yards dark sea green solid fabric (Fabric 1)
2
yards light sea green solid fabric (Fabric 2)
¾ yard gold solid fabric (Fabric 3)
1
yards multicolor print fabric #1 (Fabric 4)
yard medium brown print fabric (Fabric 5)
yard multicolor print fabric #2, at least 42″ wide (Fabric 6)
1 yards chocolate brown print fabric (Fabric 7)
1¾ yards multicolor print fabric #3 (Fabric 8)
2½ yards chocolate brown solid fabric (Fabric 9)
3 yards neutral solid sashing fabric
yard binding fabric
79″ × 79″ batting
Stick-on labels
tip
Take a moment and use the stick-on labels to label each fabric with its number (1 through 9), as listed in the materials list. As you cut, transfer the labels to the corresponding stacks of block units. Label the 41 pieces for the quilt back as you cut them, using the unique code indicated in the cutting instructions (1A, 2B, and so on).
FABRIC 1 (DARK SEA GREEN SOLID):
Cut:
• 2 strips 22″ × width of fabric; subcut into:
1 piece 22″ × 22″ (1A)
1 piece 18¼″ × 22″ (1D)
1 piece 13″ × 22″ (1C)
2 pieces 5½″ × 22″ (1B and 1I)
1 piece 4¼″ × 22″ (1E)
• 1 strip 4¼″ × width of fabric; subcut into:
1 piece 18¼″ × 4¼″ (1H)
1 piece 13″ × 4¼″ (1G)
1 piece 5½″ × 4¼″ (1F)
• 1 strip 5½″ × width of fabric; subcut into:
1 piece 18¼″ × 5½″ (1L)
1 piece 13″ × 5½″ (1K)
1 piece 5½″ × 5½″ (1J)
Set all the above pieces aside for the quilt back.
• 2 strips 11¾″ × width of fabric; subcut into 9 pieces 6¾″ × 11¾″ (Block Unit 1), and set these aside for the quilt blocks
FABRIC 2 (LIGHT SEA GREEN SOLID):
Cut:
• 2 strips 18¼″ × width of fabric; subcut into:
1 piece 18¼″ × 18¼″ (2H)
1 piece 13″ × 18¼″ (2G)
1 piece 5½″ × 18¼″ (2F)
1 piece 22″ × 18¼″ (2E)
• 2 strips 5½″ × width of fabric; subcut into:
1 piece 18¼″ × 5½″ (2D)
1 piece 13″ × 5½″ (2C)
1 piece 5½″ × 5½″ (2B)
1 piece 22″ × 5½″ (2A)
Set all the above pieces aside for the quilt back.
• 2 strips 11¾″ × width of fabric; subcut into 9 pieces 4¾″ × 11¾″ (Block Unit 2) and set these aside for the quilt blocks
FABRIC 3 (GOLD SOLID):
Cut:
• 2 strips 6¾″ × width of fabric; subcut into:
1 piece 18¼″ × 6¾″ (3D)
1 piece 10½″ × 6¾″ (3C)
1 piece 4¼″ × 6¾″ (3B)
1 piece 22″ × 6¾″ (3A)
Set these aside for the quilt back.
• 3 strips 1¾″ × width of fabric; subcut into 9 pieces 11″ × 1¾″ (Block Unit 3) and set these aside for the quilt blocks
FABRIC 4 (MULTICOLOR PRINT #1):
Cut:
• 2 strips 15½″ × width of fabric; subcut into:
1 piece 33¼″ × 15½″ (4A)
1 piece 18¼″ × 15½″ (4C)
1 piece 13″ × 15½″ (4B)
Set these aside for the quilt back.
• 1 strip 12½″ × width of fabric; subcut into 9 pieces 3½″ × 12½″ (Block Unit 4) and set these aside for the quilt blocks
FABRIC 5 (MEDIUM BROWN PRINT):
Cut:
• 5 strips 3″ × width of fabric; subcut into:
2 pieces 29¼″ × 3″ (5C and 5D)
2 pieces 22″ × 3″ (5A and 5B)
2 pieces 18¼″ × 3″ (5E and 5F)
Set these aside for the quilt back.
• 1 strip 13½″ × width of fabric; subcut into 9 pieces 2″ × 13½″ (Block Unit 5) and set these aside for the quilt blocks
FABRIC 6 (MULTICOLOR PRINT #2):
Cut:
• 2 strips 5½″ × width of fabric; subcut into:
1 piece 35¾″ × 5½″ (6A)
1 piece 18¼″ × 5½″ (6C)
1 piece 15½″ × 5½″ (6B)
Set these aside for the quilt back.
• 3 strips 1½″ × width of fabric; subcut into 9 pieces 13½″ × 1½″ (Block Unit 6) and set these aside for the quilt blocks
note
Up to this point, everything has been cut along the width of the fabric. The next few fabrics need to be cut along the length of the fabric (page 128).
FABRIC 7 (CHOCOLATE BROWN PRINT):
Trim away the selvage and cut:
• 2 strips 8″ × length of fabric; subcut into:
1 piece 55¾″ × 8″ (7A)
1 piece 18¼″ × 8″ (7B)
Set these aside for the quilt back.
From the remaining fabric, cut:
• 9 pieces 2″ × 14″ (Block Unit 7) and set these aside for the quilt blocks
FABRIC 8 (MULTICOLOR PRINT #3):
Trim away the selvage and cut:
• 2 strips 10½″ × length of fabric; subcut into:
1 piece 58¼″ × 10½″ (8A)
1 piece 18¼″ × 10½″ (8B)
Set these aside for the quilt back.
From the remaining fabric, cut:
• 9 pieces 2½″ × 14½″ (Block Unit 8) and set these aside for the quilt blocks
FABRIC 9 (CHOCOLATE BROWN SOLID):
Trim away the selvage and cut:
• 1 strip 8″ × length of fabric; trim to 83½″ × 8″ (9A) and set aside for the quilt back
From the remaining fabric, cut:
• 9 pieces 2″ × 15½″ (Block Unit 9) and set aside for the quilt blocks
NEUTRAL SOLID SASHING FABRIC:
Trim away the selvage and cut:
• 2 strips 12½″ × length of fabric; subcut into:
2 long border strips 75½″ × 12½″
2 short border strips 51½″ × 12½″
• 2 strips 3½″ × length of fabric; subcut into:
2 long sashing strips 51½″ × 3½″
6 short sashing strips 15½″ × 3½″
BINDING FABRIC:
• Cut 8 strips 2½″ × width of fabric.
All seam allowances are ¼″, and all seams are pressed open unless otherwise noted.
1. Sew Block Unit 1 to Block Unit 2, matching the 11¾″ sides. (Figure A)
2. Measure 3¾″ down from the top and cut the block horizontally, keeping the cut parallel to the top of the block and at right angles to the seam you’ve just sewn. Sew the 2 pieces back together with a Block Unit 3 piece between them. (Figure B)
3. Measure 1¼″ over from the seam joining Block Unit 1 to Block Unit 2 and cut the block vertically, keeping the cut square with the seams you’ve already sewn. Sew the 2 pieces back together with a Block Unit 4 piece between them. (Figure C)
note
For the remaining block steps, take care to keep all the cuts square with the seams you’ve already sewn. Refer to the illustrations as a guide for your cutting.
4. Measure 1½″ down from the bottom of Block Unit 3 and cut the block horizontally. Sew the 2 pieces back together with a Block Unit 5 piece between them. (Figure D)
5. Measure 1″ over from the left side of Block Unit 4 and cut the block vertically. Sew the 2 pieces back together with a Block Unit 6 piece between them. (Figure E)
6. Measure ¾″ down from the top of Block Unit 5 and cut the block in half horizontally, right through the center of Block Unit 5. Sew the 2 pieces back together with a Block Unit 7 piece between them. (Figure F)
7. Measure 1¼″ over from the seam between Block Unit 1 and Block Unit 2 and cut the block vertically. Sew the 2 pieces back together with a Block Unit 8 piece between them. (Figure G)
8. Measure 2¾″ down from the bottom of Block Unit 5 and cut the block horizontally. Sew the 2 pieces back together with a Block Unit 9 piece between them. (Figure H)
9. Square up the finished block to 15½″ × 15½″.
Repeat Steps 1–9 to make a total of 9 blocks.
Finished Metropolis block
1. Arrange 3 rows of 3 blocks each, rotating every other block 90°. Sew each row together, inserting short sashing strips between adjacent blocks as shown in the quilt top assembly diagram (below). Sew the rows together, inserting long sashing strips between rows.
2. Sew a short border strip to each side and a long border strips to the top and the bottom.
Quilt top assembly diagram
1. Sew 1I to 2A, matching the long sides. Sew 1J to 2B. Sew the 2 pieced units together with 3C between them. Set aside. (Figure A)
2. Sew 1E, 3B, and 1F together, matching the short sides. Sew this unit to the left long side of 4A. Sew the pieced unit from Step 1 to the right side of 4A. (Figure B)
3. Sew 5C to the bottom of the pieced unit from Step 2. Set aside. (Figure C)
4. Sew 1A, 3A, 1B, and 5A together, matching the long sides. Sew 6A to the right side of the pieced unit. (Figure D)
5. Sew the unit from Step 4 to the pieced unit from Step 3. Set aside. (Figure E)
6. Sew 5B to 1C, matching the long sides. Sew 6B to the right side of the pieced unit. Set aside. (Figure F)
7. Sew 1G, 4B, 1K, and 2C together, matching the 13″ sides. Sew 5D to the top. (Figure G)
8. Sew the Step 7 unit to the right side of the pieced unit from Step 6. (Figure H)
9. Sew 7A to the top of the pieced Step 8 unit. (Figure I)
10. Sew the pieced unit from Step 9 to the bottom of the Step 5 unit. Set aside. (Figure J)
11. Sew together 2E, 3D, 2F, 5E, 7B, 5F, and 2G, matching the 18¼″ sides. Sew 8A to the left side of the unit. (Figure K)
12. Sew the Step 11 unit to the right side of the pieced unit from Step 10. Set aside. (Figure L)
13. Sew together 1D, 6C, 1H, 4C, 1L, 2D, 8B, and 2H, matching the 18¼″ sides. Sew 9A to the top. (Figure M)
14. Finish the quilt back by sewing the Step 13 unit to the bottom of the pieced unit from Step 12. (Figure N)
Refer to Construction Basics (pages 132–141) for details on sandwiching, quilting, and binding your project.
Simplify your fabric choices by using prints and solids in just two colors. For this block, I used orange fabrics for all the vertical strips (Fabrics 1, 2, 4, 6, and 8) and blue fabrics for all the horizontal strips (Fabrics 3, 5, 7, and 9). To add interest, I included one orange print with a little blue.
Black-and-white prints always make a statement. Combine that with vibrant violet solids for a block that packs a big visual punch. To balance the bolder fabrics, I used more somber charcoal and gray solids for the background (Fabrics 1 and 2). I also played with the fabric formula, using black-and-white prints and violet solids for both horizontal and vertical stripes.
