While we were growing up, cakes and cupcakes were baked only for special occasions and holidays in our house. Mom’s Marble Chiffon and angel cakes were the usual suspects, both of which she made with potato starch for Passover. The Jewish New Year always began with honey cake followed by an apple upside-down cake, if we were lucky. Layer cakes were reserved for birthdays well after she gave up on decades of birthday pies. These days in our house, even minor occasions warrant cake. Because who doesn’t love cake? Cupcakes are never going out of style, no matter what anyone says. Why? Just hand a beautiful cupcake to someone and watch that person’s face. That’s why.

Special Equipment

Silicone spatulas; 8- or 9-inch layer cake pans; cupcake pans; heatproof bowls, double boiler; greaseproof cupcake liners; plenty of toothpicks; offset spatulas; piping bags and tips (Wilton 2D, star tips, ½-inch plain tips)

Tips

• Unless otherwise specified, all ingredients should be at room temperature.
• If a recipe says to “grease” the pan, feel free to use nonstick spray (without flour), butter, or shortening.
• A pan for yellow cake is best dusted with flour; a pan for chocolate cake is best dusted with cocoa powder.
• Count on GF cakes and cupcakes to shrink slightly in height, so slightly overfilling the pan is necessary, like buying longer jeans knowing that they will shrink in the wash.
• Trust the toothpick: Remove the cake from the oven as soon as a toothpick comes out with dry crumbs.
• Chocolate baked goods will always be better the next day.
• Greaseproof liners help keep cupcakes fresher longer and they look great, too.
• To get a nice dome on the cupcake, fill each liner a very generous two-thirds full.
• Overbaking GF cupcakes is the kiss of cupcake death because the bottom of the cake will not be edible and instead could patch a tire on your car, should the event arise.
• Count on there being a generous amount of icing for each cupcake. Leftovers can be saved in the refrigerator: Swiss buttercream, 2 days; buttercream with butter, 4 days; and buttercream with shortening, 8 days.

HONEY CAKE

Makes 8 to 10 servings

Baking time: 38 to 44 minutes (plus resting overnight)

Dairy-free

Inspired by Joan Nathan’s Jewish Holiday Cookbook, our gluten-free honey cake is an ideal Rosh Hashanah dessert. Instant espresso powder and unsweetened cocoa add punch to the flavors and moderate the sweetness. Honey cake is only as good as the honey you use. For this occasion, try blackberry sage or orange blossom honey. Don’t leave out the rum or rum flavoring. After all, can it be a Jewish holiday without a little sip of something spirited? Bake this ahead and let it age slightly—24 hours for best flavor.

nonstick spray, for greasing

shortening 60 grams | 5 tablespoons

sugar 100 grams | ½ cup

eggs 180 grams | 3 extra-large

honey 325 grams | 1 cup

lemon zest, freshly grated 5 grams | 1 tablespoon

orange zest, freshly grated 5 grams | 1 tablespoon

vanilla extract ½ teaspoon

dark rum 1 tablespoon

or
rum flavoring 1 teaspoon

Nosh AP GF flour 300 grams | 2⅓ cups

instant espresso powder (decaf is fine) 1 tablespoon

unsweetened cocoa powder, sifted 1 tablespoon

kosher salt ½ teaspoon

baking soda ½ teaspoon

ground cinnamon ¼ teaspoon

ground cloves ¼ teaspoon

1. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Grease one 8½ × 4½-inch loaf pan or one 10-cup Bundt pan with nonstick spray.

2. Using an electric mixer on medium-high speed, beat the shortening and sugar together until light and fluffy. Scrape down the sides as needed. Add the eggs and mix well. In a small bowl, whisk the honey, zests, vanilla, and rum. Add to the batter and mix thoroughly.

3. In a large bowl, whisk to combine the flour with espresso powder, cocoa, salt, baking soda, cinnamon, and cloves. Add the flour mixture to the wet ingredients and mix for a minute or two. Scrape down the sides with a spatula and continue to mix until all the dry ingredients are incorporated. Scrape the batter into the prepared pan.

4. Bake the cake for 20 minutes and rotate the pan for even baking. Bake for 18 to 24 minutes more; remove from the oven once a toothpick comes out with a few clingy crumbs and it is golden brown and beginning to shrink away from the edges of the pan. Let cool for 2 minutes in the pan and then turn out onto a rack to cool completely (being very careful because the cake is fragile while warm). Wrap the cooled cake in foil and let the flavors fuse together at room temperature for at least 24 hours before serving, for best flavor.

APPLE UPSIDE-DOWN CAKE WITH HONEY POMEGRANATE SYRUP

Makes 8 servings

Baking time: 40 to 45 minutes

Dairy-free option available

One of the strongest symbolic traditions celebrating Rosh Hashanah is dipping apples in honey. It symbolizes hope and optimism for the coming Jewish New Year. Apple upside-down cake made with honey is a wonderful way to honor that tradition. Adding pomegranate syrup to the cake makes it a perfect dessert for the second night of the holiday, when tradition says to introduce another new fruit in celebration of the upcoming year. Be sure to use pomegranate concentrate (100 percent pomegranate) and not pomegranate molasses, which contains additional ingredients. Flip the cake out of the pan when it is piping hot, because that is how you get the apples to stay with the cake and not the pan. Don’t forget to use those pot holders.

nonstick spray, for greasing

tart apples: Pippin, Gala, McIntosh, or Granny Smith 2 medium

fresh lemon juice 1 to 2 teaspoons

brown sugar 40 grams | 3 tablespoons

honey 42 grams | 2 tablespoons

pomegranate concentrate | 2 teaspoons

Nosh AP GF flour 200 grams | 1½ cups

baking powder 1 teaspoon

baking soda ¼ teaspoon

kosher salt ¼ teaspoon

unsalted butter, slightly softened 130 grams | 9 tablespoons or ½ cup plus 1 tablespoon

or
shortening 96 grams | 8 tablespoons or ½ cup

granulated sugar 200 grams | 1 cup

eggs 120 grams | 2 extra-large

vanilla extract 1 teaspoon

water or milk 115 grams | ½ cup

lemon zest, freshly grated 5 grams | 1 tablespoon

HONEY POMEGRANATE SYRUP

honey, orange blossom preferred 100 grams | ⅓ cup

pomegranate concentrate 3 tablespoons

dark rum or rum flavoring 1 teaspoon

1. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Generously grease one 8-inch round pan with nonstick spray.

2. Peel and core the apples. Cut the apples in half. With the cut side down, slice several ½-inch-wide wedges—enough to form a ring in the bottom of the pan. Cut the remaining apples into ¼-inch cubes. Sprinkle 1 teaspoon of the lemon juice over the cubed apples and set them aside. Place the apple wedges in a concentric circle in the bottom of the prepared pan with the points facing upward (remember—it’s an upside-down cake). Sprinkle with the brown sugar, honey, and pomegranate concentrate.

3. In a small bowl, stir the flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt just until combined. In a larger bowl, using an electric mixer on medium-high speed, combine the butter with the granulated sugar until fluffy. Add the eggs, vanilla, water, and lemon zest and beat to combine. Stir into the dry ingredients and beat for a minute until the batter is shiny and smooth. Add the apple cubes and fold gently with a spatula to combine. Pour or scoop the batter over the apple wedges. Rap the pan on the countertop to remove any air bubbles.

4. Bake the cake for 25 minutes and rotate the pan for even baking. Bake for 15 to 20 minutes more, until a toothpick comes out clean and the cake is golden brown. Immediately run a knife around the edge of the cake and get your serving plate ready. Using pot holders (unless you have fingers of steel), place the cake plate over the pan and in one smooth motion flip it over. Wait until you hear the sound of the cake plop onto the plate and then tap the top of the inverted pan with a butter knife. Carefully lift the pan and if any apple bits are stuck in the pan, you can place them back on the cake while it is hot. This only works while it is hot. Let the cake cool completely before serving. Store, covered loosely, at room temperature.

HONEY POMEGRANATE SYRUP

Simmer the honey and pomegranate concentrate in a small saucepan over medium-low heat for a few minutes, until beginning to boil. Remove the saucepan from the heat, carefully add the rum, and give it a minute to thicken. Pour over the cake and serve, or slice the cake and pour over each serving.

PUMPKIN CUPCAKES WITH HONEY BUTTERCREAM

Makes 12 to 14 cupcakes

Baking time: 18 to 24 minutes

Dairy-free

These pumpkin cupcakes with honey buttercream are a nontraditional nod to both the Jewish New Year and autumn. Mixed with chopped toasted walnuts and dried apples and topped with a whipped nondairy honey buttercream, these cupcakes are a superbly tasty way to welcome a new season.

shortening 120 grams | 10 tablespoons or ½ cup plus 2 tablespoons

granulated sugar 175 grams | heaping ¾ cup

eggs 180 grams | 3 extra-large

canned pure pumpkin puree 160 grams | ¾ cup

lemon or orange zest, freshly grated 5 grams | 1 tablespoon

vanilla extract 1 teaspoon

lemon or orange extract ½ teaspoon

Nosh AP GF flour 175 grams | 1⅓ cups

baking powder 1 heaping teaspoon

kosher salt ½ teaspoon

ground cinnamon ½ teaspoon

baking soda ¼ teaspoon

ground cloves ¼ teaspoon

nutmeg, freshly ground preferred ¼ teaspoon

dried apples, finely diced 35 grams | ⅓ cup

walnuts or pecans, toasted and roughly chopped 40 grams | ⅓ cup

HONEY BUTTERCREAM

shortening 110 grams | 9 tablespoons or ½ cup plus 1 tablespoon

honey, orange blossom preferred 30 grams | 1½ tablespoons

confectioners’ sugar, sifted 220 grams | 2 cups

almond milk 2 to 3 tablespoons

vanilla extract ½ teaspoon

TOPPING

walnuts or pecans, toasted and roughly chopped 40 grams | ⅓ cup

1. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Place liners in a cupcake pan.

2. In a medium bowl, using an electric mixer on medium-high speed, cream the shortening with the granulated sugar until fluffy. Add the eggs and mix until light and fluffy. Add the pumpkin, zest, vanilla, and lemon extract and mix until fully incorporated. In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, salt, cinnamon, baking soda, cloves, and nutmeg. Add to the wet ingredients and beat until fully mixed and the batter is thick but smooth. Fold in the diced dried apples and walnuts with a silicone spatula.

3. Fill each liner two-thirds full. Bake for 18 to 24 minutes, or until a toothpick comes out with almost dry crumbs. Let cool in the pan for a minute. Carefully transfer the cupcakes to a rack and let cool completely before frosting.

HONEY BUTTERCREAM

Using an electric mixer on medium-high speed, whip the shortening and honey until fully combined and slightly fluffy. Add the sifted confectioners’ sugar and mix on low speed until almost combined. Add the almond milk 1 tablespoon at a time and whip on high speed until the frosting is soft enough to be piped. Add the vanilla and whip on high speed for a few seconds. Pipe or spoon on top of the cooled cupcakes.

TOPPING

Sprinkle on the nuts immediately—before the frosting sets. The cupcakes are best served the same day.

GOLDIE’S POUND CAKE

Makes 12 to 14 servings

Baking time: 50 to 60 minutes

My mother could never remember to preheat the oven and it turns out there is not only economy in that, but you’ll be rewarded with a pound cake that has an intense vanilla-butter flavor and a lemon, almond back note as well as a tender crumb. Pound cake is named aptly: A pound of the four major ingredients—butter, sugar, eggs, and flour—goes into the cake. Fortunately, the recipe feeds the entire neighborhood, so you aren’t required to eat it all.

nonstick spray or butter, for greasing

unsalted butter, slightly softened 460 grams | 32 tablespoons or 2 cups

sugar 500 grams | 2½ cups

eggs 480 grams | 8 extra-large

lemon zest, freshly grated 5 grams | 1 tablespoon

vanilla extract 1 teaspoon

almond extract ½ teaspoon

limoncello or fresh lemon juice 2 tablespoons

Nosh AP GF flour 520 grams | 4 cups

baking powder 1 teaspoon

kosher salt 1 teaspoon

mace or nutmeg ¼ teaspoon

1. Generously grease two 8½ × 4½-inch loaf pans.

2. Using an electric mixer on medium-high speed, beat the butter with the sugar until light and fluffy. The mixture should look thick and pale yellow.

3. Beat in the eggs one at a time until fully incorporated. Add the lemon zest, vanilla, almond extract, and limoncello. Mix well. In a medium bowl, whisk the flour with the baking powder, salt, and mace. Add the flour mixture to the wet ingredients and beat just until incorporated. Fold one more time from the bottom to mix in any rogue dry matter remaining in the bottom of the bowl.

4. Fill the prepared baking pans evenly, a bit more than half full. Rap the pans on the countertop to settle the batter and remove any air bubbles. Place the pans in a cold oven. Turn the oven temperature to 325°F and bake for 50 to 60 minutes. At 50 minutes, begin checking the loaves with a toothpick. When the cake is golden and starting to crack on top and the toothpick comes out with dry crumbs, transfer the pans to a rack to cool for 5 minutes. Remove the cakes from the pans and continue to cool on the rack.

5. Serve plain or with fresh berries and whipped cream.

CHOCOLATE BABKA

Makes one 2-pound loaf; serves 8 to 10

Baking time: 45 to 50 minutes (plus rising time for dough)

I love the old New York City Jewish bakery babka and wanted one that reminded me of those big fat twisty loaves filled with chocolate and nuts. This loaf does just that. It is not hard to make, but it has a few components that take a bit of time. Freezing the chocolate chips overnight prior to making the recipe keeps them from clumping when mixing up the filling. Babka gets better with age and lasts for days if you cover it with foil, not plastic. A well-made babka is a nosh worth undertaking.

Nosh AP GF flour, plus more for dusting 325 grams | 2½ cups

tapioca starch 25 grams | ¼ cup

Expandex Modified Tapioca Starch or additional tapioca starch 50 grams | 5 tablespoons

granulated sugar 90 grams | 7 tablespoons or ¼ cup plus 3 tablespoons

instant yeast, Red Star preferred 20 grams | 2 tablespoons

nonfat powdered milk 15 grams | 2 tablespoons

xanthan gum 2 teaspoons (3 teaspoons if not using Expandex)

kosher salt 2 teaspoons

pectin ¼ teaspoon

guar gum ¼ teaspoon

unsalted butter, slightly softened 30 grams | 2 tablespoons

canola oil 75 grams | ⅓ cup

vanilla bean paste or vanilla extract 2 teaspoons

eggs 120 grams | 2 extra-large

egg yolks 50 grams | 2 extra-large

whole milk 170 grams | ⅔ cup

FILLING

semisweet chocolate chips, frozen 340 grams | 2 cups

bittersweet chocolate chips, frozen 60 grams | ⅓ cup

ground cinnamon 1 heaping teaspoon

cold unsalted butter, cubed 90 grams | 6 tablespoons or ¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons

dark rum 40 grams | 3 tablespoons

or
rum flavoring 1 teaspoon

STREUSEL TOPPING

Nosh AP GF flour 65 grams | ½ cup

granulated sugar 50 grams | ¼ cup

brown sugar 50 grams | ¼ cup

salt ¼ teaspoon

ground cinnamon ½ teaspoon

cold unsalted butter, cubed 60 grams | 4 tablespoons or ¼ cup

egg 60 grams | 1 extra-large

1. In a large bowl, combine the flour, tapioca starch, Expandex, sugar, yeast, powdered milk, xanthan gum, salt, pectin, and guar gum and whisk to mix. Add the butter and, using a fork, mix lightly to combine. In a separate bowl, whisk together the oil, vanilla bean paste, eggs, egg yolks, and milk. Add to the dry mixture and work the dough with a fork to make sure everything is well incorporated. Using a silicone spatula, scrape the sides and the bottom, turning the sticky dough until it is somewhat smooth. Cover with plastic wrap and let rise for 2 hours, or until it has doubled in size.

2. For the filling, in the bowl of a food processor or strong blender, pulse the frozen chocolate chips until they are almost powdered. Add the cinnamon and the butter cubes and process until the mixture starts to look like chocolate spread. Add the rum and mix in thoroughly.

TOPPING

In a small bowl, whisk together all the dry ingredients. Add the cubes of butter, and work the butter into the dry mixture just until it looks like coarse, ragged crumbs. Beat the egg in a small bowl and set aside for brushing the dough before baking.

ASSEMBLY

1. Generously butter a 9 × 5-inch loaf pan. Punch down the dough and place it on a parchment-lined floured surface. Add a little more flour to the top and keep your hands well floured for best results. Knead the dough until it is smooth, shiny, and not quite sticky. Using more flour as needed, roll the dough into a small rectangle, using a piece of plastic wrap on top. Remove the plastic wrap. Fold the dough into thirds like a business letter. Turn the dough so the seam faces you, and roll and fold again like a business letter. Do that two more times. This helps work the dough so that it becomes pliable.

2. Roll the dough into a 16 × 14-inch rectangle. Spread the filling onto the dough all the way to the edges, leaving a ¼-inch border empty. Begin rolling the dough from the long side in jelly-roll fashion—snug but not tight enough to crack. Once the dough is rolled, give it a little stretch to get it to a 22-inch-long rope without breaking it. Coil the long rope gently, because it will want to crack as it bends. Pinch it together where it does try to crack. Once you have a coil, stand it up with the seam side down. Flatten it slightly. That helps eliminate air pockets. Place the coil seam side down in the center of the prepared loaf pan. Cover and let it rise in a draft-free area until it almost fills the pan, about 2 hours. Don’t let it rise over the top.

3. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Place the loaf pan on a baking sheet. Brush the babka with the egg wash and scatter the streusel topping all over the top and even down the sides. Bake for 30 minutes and rotate the pan for even baking. Bake for 15 to 20 minutes more and remove the babka from the oven when it is between 185° and 190°F internally, golden brown, and even slightly overdone.

4. Let cool in the pan 15 to 20 minutes, then transfer the babka from the pan to a rack. Cool two hours to set the chocolate. Slice with a serrated knife. Store at room temperature wrapped tightly. Reheat slices on a baking sheet in a preheated 300°F oven for 5 minutes to refresh.

BLACK & WHITE ANGEL FOOD CAKE

Makes 10 to 12 servings

Baking time: 40 to 45 minutes

Dairy-free

An angel food cake is easier to make than you imagine. There are no magic tricks. It is more an effort in patience than any special skill. You are going to use all the bowls in the kitchen for this recipe, but it’s worth it. Even if the cake is not perfect, the flavor of a cake wreck will still be appreciated, and you can always dress it up with fresh berries.

Nosh AP GF flour 140 grams | 1 heaping cup

superfine sugar 370 grams | scant 2 cups

kosher salt ½ teaspoon

unsweetened cocoa powder, sifted 3 tablespoons

instant espresso powder (decaf is fine) 1 teaspoon

egg whites 245 grams | 7 extra-large

cream of tartar ½ teaspoon

vanilla extract 1 teaspoon

Boyajian orange oil ½ teaspoon

or
pure orange extract 1 teaspoon

---

SERVING OPTIONS

berries

whipped cream or nondairy topping

shaved chocolate curls

---

1. Preheat the oven to 325°F. Get out your 10-inch angel food cake pan (the one with the tube in the center and a removable bottom). Do not grease it.

2. Place the flour in one bowl. Place the superfine sugar in another. Add half of the sugar and all of the salt to the flour. Whisk to combine. Transfer half of that mixture into a third bowl. To that third bowl, add the cocoa and espresso powder. Whisk to combine. You should have three containers at this point. One has half of the sugar, one has a flour mixture, and the other has some of the flour mixture combined with cocoa and espresso powder.

3. In a clean bowl, whip the egg whites and cream of tartar with an electric mixer on medium speed until combined. Turn up the mixer speed to medium-high and whip the whites until very soft peaks form. Add the vanilla extract and orange oil. Turn down the mixer to medium speed and very slowly pour in the remaining sugar. Stop the mixer when you see stiff peaks but the whites look smooth and silky. Don’t overbeat them or they will become dry and separate.

4. Take one third to just under half of the whipped egg whites and place in yet another bowl. Using a mesh strainer, sift the flour mixture on top of the whites. Using a clean silicone spatula, fold in the flour mixture gently until fully combined with the whites. The whites will deflate a little bit, but don’t worry about that. Just be gentle and make sure no dry ingredients remain.

5. Sift the remaining flour mixture (the one without cocoa) into the remaining whipped egg whites and use a clean silicone spatula to gently fold in the flour mixture until no dry ingredients remain. Don’t mingle the chocolate and the vanilla batter yet.

6. Scoop half of the vanilla batter mixture into the ungreased pan. Spread gently to create an even layer. Add all of the chocolate batter on top and smooth it gently. Top with the remaining vanilla batter and smooth with the spatula. As you add each layer, take care to make sure no pockets of air are formed or the cake will bake with giant holes. Use the spatula to press down lightly as you smooth the batter. You’ll feel any air pockets if they exist. Press gently to fill them in.

7. Bake the cake for 40 to 45 minutes, or just until a toothpick comes out without crumbs. The top will be puffy and look golden. Invert the cake pan onto a rack, or, for a retro challenge, invert the cake pan onto a long-necked bottle inserted into the tube. Leave the cake upside down for at least an hour.

8. Once the cake is completely cool, run a sharp knife around the edge and release the removable bottom, bringing the cake out of the pan while still attached to the inside tube. Gently run a knife around the bottom edge of the cake and the inside tube and invert onto a serving plate. Even if the cake is perfect as you get it out of the pan, dropping it just a few inches onto the countertop may result in a slight imperfection called, say, a dent. If the top is not perfectly flat, then press it with the back of a spoon to even out the dent/channel around the circumference of the cake and fill with berries, a little shaved chocolate, whipped cream, or drizzled chocolate sauce—it’ll look all dressed up. Store the plain cake, covered, at room temperature. Store in the refrigerator if the cake is covered with berries and/or whipped cream.

DARK CHOCOLATE CINNAMON CUPCAKES

Makes 12 cupcakes

Baking time: 18 to 20 minutes

Dairy-free

A deep dark chocolate flavor with a hint of cinnamon is like a great cup of Mexican coffee all packaged in a small cake. Although the cupcake calls for ground chipotle pepper, it is not spicy. The smoky addition bridges the flavors of the chocolate and cinnamon in the cupcake. You may find yourself wanting to eat another cupcake just to taste that combination one more time.

Nosh AP GF flour 130 grams | 1 cup

granulated sugar 200 grams | 1 cup

unsweetened cocoa powder, sifted 30 grams | ⅓ cup

baking powder 1½ teaspoons

instant espresso powder (decaf is fine) | 1 teaspoon

ground cinnamon 1 heaping teaspoon

kosher salt ½ teaspoon

chipotle powder ½ teaspoon

shortening 96 grams | 8 tablespoons or ½ cup

eggs 180 grams | 3 extra-large

almond milk 150 grams | ⅔ cup minus 1 tablespoon

vanilla extract 1 teaspoon

CINNAMON CHOCOLATE BUTTERCREAM

shortening 108 grams | 9 tablespoons or ½ cup plus 1 tablespoon

confectioners’ sugar, sifted 440 grams | 4 cups

ground cinnamon ½ teaspoon

vanilla extract 1 teaspoon

brewed coffee (decaf is fine) 1 to 3 tablespoons

unsweetened cocoa powder, sifted 20 grams | 3 tablespoons

hot tap water 3 tablespoons

DECORATION

GF chocolate–covered espresso beans 12 beans

1. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Place liners in a cupcake pan.

2. In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, granulated sugar, cocoa, baking powder, espresso powder, cinnamon, salt, and chipotle powder. Cut the shortening into four or five pieces. Add the shortening, eggs, almond milk, and vanilla to the dry mixture. Using an electric mixer, start on low speed and then increase the speed to beat the ingredients until the batter is smooth, lump-free, and a little bit fluffy, 2 to 3 minutes.

3. Fill each liner two-thirds full. Bake the cupcakes for 18 to 20 minutes, or just until a toothpick comes out without crumbs. Let cool in the pan for a few minutes. Transfer the cupcakes to a rack and let cool completely before frosting.

CINNAMON CHOCOLATE BUTTERCREAM

1. Using an electric mixer on low speed, mix the shortening, confectioners’ sugar, cinnamon, vanilla, and 1 tablespoon of coffee. In a small bowl, whisk the cocoa with the hot water until the mixture is smooth. Add to the buttercream and whip on high speed until fully combined.

2. Whip the mixture until it is very light and fluffy. If it seems too stiff, add more coffee, up to 1 tablespoon at a time. Pipe or spoon onto each cupcake. Top each with a single chocolate-covered espresso bean.

CHERRY CHOCOLATE CUPCAKES

Makes 12 cupcakes

Baking time: 18 to 20 minutes

These cupcakes taste even better the second day, so making them ahead is a great idea. However, plan to make the buttercream the same day you are serving the cupcakes, for best flavor. The liquid from the jar of maraschino cherries or cherry liqueur makes the buttercream turn a beautiful pale pink and gives it a great flavor. This is a stunning cupcake and easy to prepare—a fabulous dessert that makes everyone happy.

Nosh AP GF flour 110 grams | heaping ¾ cup

granulated sugar 150 grams | ¾ cup

unsweetened cocoa powder, sifted 50 grams | ½ cup

instant espresso powder (decaf is fine) 1 teaspoon

baking powder 1 teaspoon

kosher salt ½ teaspoon

baking soda ¼ teaspoon

hot tap water 115 grams | ½ cup

unsalted butter, melted 135 grams | 9 tablespoons or ½ cup plus 1 tablespoon

eggs 180 grams | 3 extra-large

vanilla extract 1 teaspoon

semisweet mini chocolate chips 85 grams | ½ cup

CHERRY BUTTERCREAM

unsalted butter, slightly softened 115 grams | 8 tablespoons or ½ cup

confectioners’ sugar, sifted 440 grams | 4 cups

vanilla extract ½ teaspoon

maraschino cherry liqueur or juice (from cherry jar) 2 to 4 tablespoons

TOPPING

extra-large maraschino cherries with stems, drained and dried 12 cherries

1. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Place liners in a cupcake pan.

2. In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, granulated sugar, cocoa, espresso powder, baking powder, salt, and baking soda. Add the hot water and stir. In a small bowl, combine the melted butter with the eggs and vanilla. Add to the large bowl and beat until the batter is smooth. Fold in the mini chocolate chips.

3. Scoop into the liners, filling each liner two-thirds full. Bake for 18 to 20 minutes, or until a toothpick comes out without crumbs. Let the cupcakes cool in the pan for a few minutes. Transfer the cupcakes to a rack to cool completely before frosting.

CHERRY BUTTERCREAM

Using an electric mixer on medium-high speed, whip the butter until slightly fluffy. Add the sifted confectioners’ sugar and mix on low speed until incorporated. Add the vanilla and whip on high. Add the cherry liqueur 1 tablespoon at a time just until the buttercream is pale pink and rather thick but smooth enough to pipe. Pipe or spoon onto the cooled cupcakes and top each with a cherry.

MOM’S MARBLE CHIFFON CAKE

Makes 10 to 12 servings

Baking time: 40 to 50 minutes

Dairy-free

There is something about marbling with chocolate and vanilla that made my mother happy. She liked to bake all kinds of things that could be swirled. It makes me happy that I was able to re-create this favorite so that the gluten-free cake tastes just as my brothers and I remember. Keep in mind that less swirling is better when it comes to marbling, and always try to drag the batter (using a butter knife) in a figure eight, for best results.

Nosh AP GF flour 260 grams | 2 cups

superfine sugar 325 grams | 1½ cups plus 2 tablespoons

baking powder 1 tablespoon

kosher salt ½ teaspoon

unsweetened cocoa powder, sifted 50 grams | scant ½ cup

hot tap water 80 grams | ⅓ cup

canola oil 145 grams | ½ cup plus 2 tablespoons

vanilla extract 2 teaspoons

brewed coffee (decaf is fine) 1 tablespoon

warm water 160 grams | ⅔ cup

eggs, separated 360 grams | 6 extra-large

orange liqueur, Grand Marnier preferred 1 tablespoon

or
fresh orange juice 1 teaspoon

cream of tartar ¼ teaspoon

1. Preheat the oven to 325°F. Set aside a 10-inch angel food cake pan with a removable bottom. Do not grease the pan.

2. In a medium bowl, sift the flour with 150 grams (¾ cup) of the superfine sugar, and the baking powder and salt. Sift a second time. Yes, really.

3. In another medium bowl, sift the cocoa and add the hot water. Whisk until smooth. Add 25 grams (2 tablespoons) of the sugar, 30 grams (2 tablespoons) of the canola oil, 1 teaspoon of the vanilla, and the brewed coffee and whisk to combine.

4. To the flour mixture, add the warm water. Whisk in the remaining 115 grams (½ cup) of canola oil, all of the egg yolks, the remaining 1 teaspoon of vanilla, and the orange liqueur. Whisk to combine.

5. In a large bowl, using an electric mixer on high speed, whip all the egg whites and the cream of tartar until frothy and add the remaining 150 grams (¾ cup) of superfine sugar a little at a time, continuing to whip until soft peaks form.

6. Add the flour batter to the egg whites and fold in gently until fully combined. Take a third of that mixture and place in the bowl with the chocolate mixture. Fold gently to combine.

7. To layer the batter, place a small amount of the chocolate mixture in the bottom of the ungreased pan. Next, place half of the light-colored batter in the angel cake pan. Add half of the remaining chocolate mixture on top. Using a butter knife, marble that mixture just slightly. Add the remaining light-colored batter on top, followed by the remaining chocolate batter. Marble the upper half of batter with a butter knife. Remember, less is more.

8. Bake the cake for 40 to 50 minutes, or just until a toothpick comes out without crumbs and the edges are beginning to look crusty golden. Invert the cake pan onto a rack, or for a retro challenge, invert the cake pan on a long-necked bottle. Leave the cake upside down to cool completely, an hour or so. Once the cake is completely cool, run a sharp knife around the edge and release the removable bottom, bringing the cake out of the pan while still attached to the inside tube. Gently run a knife around the bottom edge of the cake and the inside tube and invert onto a serving plate. Store, covered, at room temperature.

CHOCOLATE ANGEL CAKE ROLL

Makes 8 to 10 servings

Baking time: 16 to 20 minutes (plus chilling overnight)

Dairy-free option available

This cake is best made the day before serving and refrigerated overnight to infuse the flavors, set the filling, and give you time to recover because while nothing about making the cake is complicated, it does take a number of steps. The trickiest part is rolling it up, but if you’ve prerolled the warm cake according to the directions, you should be just fine. That dusting of cocoa powder is not just for good looks; it covers all those tiny and inevitable little cracks. If possible, don’t leave out the liqueur in the raspberry jam layer—it adds a great dimension to the flavors and by the end of a long seder, it won’t hurt and might even help. Chocolate cake goes well with a variety of fruits, so feel to substitute your favorite fruit jam instead of raspberry.

superfine sugar 400 grams | 2 cups

Nosh AP GF flour 130 grams | 1 cup

kosher salt ½ teaspoon

unsweetened cocoa powder, sifted 30 grams | 5 tablespoons

instant espresso powder (decaf is fine) 1 teaspoon

cream of tartar ½ teaspoon

egg whites 280 grams | 8 extra-large

vanilla extract 1 teaspoon

FILLING

marshmallows, homemade, or Paskesz kosher preferred 454 grams | 16 ounces

whole or nondairy milk, almond preferred 245 grams | 1 cup

heavy cream or nondairy whipped topping 485 grams | 2 cups

vanilla extract 1 teaspoon

seedless raspberry or other fruit jam, Bonne Maman preferred 370 grams | one 13-ounce jar

raspberry liqueur, Framboise preferred | 2 tablespoons

or
100% pure fruit juice | 1 tablespoon

TOPPINGS

unsweetened cocoa powder, sifted 50 grams plus 20 grams more for dusting | ½ cup, plus 3 tablespoons more for dusting

fresh berries, raspberries preferred 170 grams | 1 half-pint

1. Preheat the oven to 325°F. Line an ungreased baking sheet with parchment paper. Set aside an additional baking sheet–size piece of parchment paper and the same size cooling rack.

2. Place 200 grams (1 cup) of the superfine sugar in a large bowl. Sift in the flour, salt, cocoa, and espresso powder. Whisk to combine. Add the cream of tartar to the egg whites in a separate bowl. Whip the whites on high speed until soft peaks start to form. Add in the vanilla. Add the remaining 200 grams (1 cup) of superfine sugar to the whites a little at a time, until they form glossy peaks. Sift the flour mixture over the top of the whipped whites. Using a spatula, fold in gently until the mixture is combined. Scrape the batter onto the lined baking sheet and spread the batter to the edges as evenly as possible. Give it a gentle whack on the countertop to even it out and make sure no huge air bubbles remain, but don’t slam it hard enough to sink the whole thing.

3. Bake the cake for 16 to 20 minutes, or just until a toothpick comes out with some gooey chocolate crumbs and the cake acts slightly springy when touched. Remove from the oven, and while it is warm, use a butter knife to loosen the cake from the edge of the pan. Place the baking sheet–size piece of parchment paper on top of the cake. Next, place the baking sheet–size cooling rack upside down on the parchment so its feet are up in the air. Using pot holders, flip the whole thing over. The cake will fall onto the rack. Remove the baking sheet. Very carefully peel the parchment from the cake and then place it gently back on the cake. There should be a piece of parchment on the bottom and top of the cake at this point. Using both pieces of parchment, starting from the short side, roll the cake up tightly—the parchment will roll along with it. You are giving the cake a little idea of what you expect it to do once it is filled, and believe me, cake has memory. Leave it rolled for 10 minutes, or until it feels cool to the touch, then let it unroll gently. It should stay curved. Let it cool completely before filling and leave both sheets of parchment on the cake so it doesn’t dry out.

FILLING

1. In a double boiler, melt the marshmallows with the milk. Stir to incorporate. Strain, if necessary, so that the mixture is completely smooth. While it cools, make the whipped cream. Don’t dawdle, because the marshmallow will become solid if it cools too long.

2. Whip the cream just until soft peaks form (or scoop about 108 grams [2 cups] of nondairy whipped topping into the bowl). Fold in the vanilla. When the marshmallow mixture is cool, add to the cream and whip together until stiff peaks form. Do not overwhip or you will have marshmallow butter.

3. Heat the jam in the microwave for 20 seconds on high so that it is just slightly liquid and tepid. Mix in the liqueur and stir well.

ASSEMBLY AND TOPPINGS

1. Once the cake is fully cooled, have all your assembly ingredients together. Remove the parchment from the top of the cake. With the short side facing you, cover the entire cake with the raspberry mixture and use an offset spatula or the back of a spoon to apply the jam evenly. Next, with a clean spatula, apply an even but generous layer of the whipped filling, leaving a slight gap at the furthest end.

2. Taking the narrow edge closest to you, roll up the cake pretty tightly—apply some pressure but accommodate the filling and try not to crack the cake, if possible. As you are rolling, peel away the bottom layer of parchment. Keep it flat on the countertop under the cake, because you will need it to move the cake once it is rolled. Use the parchment to help transfer the cake, rolling it seam side down, to a serving platter or a smaller baking sheet. Sift the 50 grams (½ cup) of cocoa all over the cake, creating a thick coating.

3. Loosely cover the cake with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight, for best flavor. Remove the cake from the refrigerator. Trim the edges and dust with the remaining 3 tablespoons of sifted cocoa to freshen up the coating. Cut the cake into generous slices and serve with fresh raspberries on the side and a dollop of whipped cream (or nondairy whipped topping), if you wish. Refrigerate any leftovers.

COCONUT SNOWFLAKE CAKE

Makes 8 servings

Baking time: 27 to 30 minutes

Aside from a fabulous chocolate cake, there’s nothing more show-stopping than an elegant coconut layer cake topped with a blizzard of beautiful snow-white coconut flakes. The cake is infused with coconut flavor aided by a little alcohol. The secret to this flavorful cake is the liquid lunch, as we call it around here. It’s a simple sugar syrup infused with flavors that are brushed onto the cake layers before the icing is applied to keep the cake moist. But if the cake must be clear-headed, feel free to use a citrus extract instead of alcohol.

unsalted butter, slightly softened, plus more for greasing 150 grams | 10 tablespoons or ½ cup plus 2 tablespoons

Nosh AP GF flour, plus more for flouring pan 260 grams | 2 cups

granulated sugar 300 grams | 1½ cups

eggs 240 grams | 4 extra-large

baking powder 1½ teaspoons

baking soda ½ teaspoon

kosher salt ½ teaspoon

vanilla extract 1 teaspoon

orange liqueur, Grand Marnier preferred, or orange extract 1 teaspoon

lemon extract ½ teaspoon

crème fraîche or sour cream 110 grams | ½ cup

canned coconut milk 120 grams | ½ cup

SIMPLE SPIRITED SYRUP

granulated sugar 2 tablespoons

hot tap water 115 grams | ½ cup

orange liqueur, Grand Marnier preferred 3 tablespoons

or
orange extract 2 teaspoons

CITRUS COCONUT BUTTERCREAM

unsalted butter, slightly softened 230 grams | 16 tablespoons or 1 cup

confectioners’ sugar, sifted 440 grams | 4 cups

vanilla extract 1 teaspoon

orange liqueur, Grand Marnier preferred, or orange extract 1 teaspoon

canned coconut milk 2 to 4 tablespoons

TOPPING

unsweetened coconut flakes 400 grams | 7 cups

1. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Grease two 8-inch round layer cake pans with butter and line them with parchment rounds. Grease the parchment with butter. Dust with flour.

2. In a large bowl, using an electric mixer on medium-high speed, cream the butter with the granulated sugar. Add the eggs, one at a time, until incorporated. In a separate bowl whisk together the flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt. Stir the vanilla, orange liqueur, and lemon extract into the butter mixture. Stir in the flour mixture. In a small bowl, stir together the crème fraîche and coconut milk. Add to the batter and beat until smooth.

3. Divide the batter evenly between the prepared cake pans. Bake the cake for 15 minutes and rotate the pans for even baking. Bake for 12 to 15 minutes more, or just until a toothpick comes out without crumbs and the cake is just starting to look golden brown. Let the cake cool in the pans for 5 minutes. Run a knife around the edges and invert the cake layers onto a rack to cool completely before adding the simple syrup and buttercream.

SIMPLE SPIRITED SYRUP

Dissolve the granulated sugar in the hot water. Add the liqueur. Let cool to room temperature. Brush on the top of the cooled cake layers. Brush on once more. There will be a little syrup left over. Let the layers dry for 30 to 60 minutes before applying the buttercream.

CITRUS COCONUT BUTTERCREAM

In a large bowl, using an electric mixer on medium-high speed, whip the butter. Add the confectioners’ sugar and mix on low speed until incorporated. Add the vanilla, orange liqueur, and coconut milk, 1 tablespoon at a time. Whip on high speed until very light and fluffy. You want the mixture to be somewhat stiff and hold peaks, but soft enough to spread. Add more coconut milk as needed.

ASSEMBLY AND TOPPING

1. Using an offset spatula, coat the bottom layer of the cake with a thin layer of icing to secure the cake crumbs (this is called a crumb coat). Add a generous dollop of icing on top of the bottom layer before placing the other cake layer on top. Apply a crumb coat over the entire cake. Let the crumb coat set for 30 minutes. You can refrigerate or freeze the cake to shorten the time to 15 minutes. In the meantime, cover the remaining icing with plastic wrap so it doesn’t dry out. When the crumb coat is set, apply the final layer of icing all over the cake in a consistent thickness.

2. With clean hands, press the coconut flakes gently all over the cake to make them adhere to the icing. You want a generous layer of coconut. Sprinkle extra flakes on top of the cake for a decorative touch. This cake is best served at room temperature.

DARK CHOCOLATE RASPBERRY CREAM CAKE

Makes 8 servings

Baking time: 30 to 35 minutes

This chocolate cake is dressed up in a cloud of raspberry liqueur–flavored whipped cream and decorated with a boatload of fresh raspberries. It is incredibly flexible: You could serve this cake at a dinner party and yet it would also be right at home at a backyard barbecue.

nonstick spray or butter, for greasing

unsweetened cocoa powder, sifted, plus more for dusting pan 25 grams | 4 tablespoons or ¼ cup

cold unsalted butter 135 grams | 9 tablespoons or ½ cup plus 1 tablespoon

brewed coffee (decaf is fine) 155 grams | ⅔ cup

superfine sugar 250 grams | 1¼ cups

Nosh AP GF flour 130 grams | 1 cup

baking powder 1 teaspoon

baking soda ½ teaspoon

kosher salt ½ teaspoon

egg 60 grams | 1 extra-large

full-fat sour cream 115 grams | ½ cup

vanilla extract 1 teaspoon

raspberry liqueur, Framboise preferred | 1 tablespoon

or
raspberry flavoring 1 teaspoon

WHIPPED CREAM TOPPING

heavy cream 485 grams | 2 cups

superfine sugar 100 grams | ½ cup

raspberry jam, Bonne Maman preferred | 2 to 4 tablespoons

vanilla extract ½ teaspoon

raspberry liqueur, Framboise preferred | 1 tablespoon

or
raspberry flavoring 1 teaspoon

TOPPING

fresh raspberries 340 to 510 grams | 2 to 3 half-pints

1. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Grease two 8-inch round layer cake pans and dust with unsweetened cocoa. Shake out the excess.

2. Cut the butter into two or three pieces. Place the cocoa, butter, and coffee in a medium saucepan. Simmer on low heat just until the butter is melted. Remove from the heat, add the superfine sugar, and mix thoroughly. Let the mixture cool until it is just warm to the touch. Whisk together the flour with the baking powder, baking soda, and salt in a small bowl. Add the flour mixture to the saucepan and mix thoroughly. Mix in the egg and stir in the sour cream, vanilla, and raspberry liqueur until combined. Cover the batter and let it sit for 20 minutes undisturbed.

3. Stir the batter once and divide evenly between the prepared cake pans. Bake the cake for 5 minutes, then turn down the temperature to 325°F. Bake for 25 to 30 minutes more, or until the cake is springy in the center and a toothpick comes out with some moist crumbs. Let cool in the pan for 15 minutes, then loosen the sides and invert the cakes onto a rack to cool completely.

4. To make the whipped cream topping, in a large bowl, using an electric mixer on high speed, whip the heavy cream until soft peaks form. Add the superfine sugar, jam, vanilla, and liqueur and whip on high speed until stiff peaks form.

5. Spread half of the cream on top of one cake layer. Place enough raspberries on the whipped cream, rather close together, fat side down, to cover the cream. Place the top cake layer gently on the first layer. Cover the top with the other half of the whipped cream and place the remaining raspberries close together in a decorative pattern. Serve immediately. Store leftovers in the refrigerator.

ANNIE’S CAKE

Makes 8 servings

Baking time: 28 to 30 minutes

A dotted-Swiss cake with chocolate glaze was our daughter Annie’s first birthday cake. Since then the cake has always been referred to as Annie’s Cake. A rich chocolate glaze is a great way to dress up any simple cake and make it look elegant—even if your recipient is a one-year-old. We like to make the cake in heart-shaped tins, a family tradition more than a half-century old that started when my mother learned that birthday pies weren’t going to make the cut any longer. No matter what shape pan you bake it in, this cake will be a classic. Mixing bittersweet with semisweet chocolate for the glaze gives the chocolate a rich, dark, not-too-sweet flavor.

nonstick spray or butter, for greasing

Nosh AP GF flour, plus more for flouring pan 260 grams plus 1 teaspoon | 2 cups plus 1 teaspoon

baking powder 1½ teaspoons

kosher salt ½ teaspoon

unsalted butter, slightly softened 150 grams | 10 tablespoons | ½ cup plus 2 tablespoons

sugar 200 grams | 1 cup

eggs 120 grams | 2 extra-large

whole milk 245 grams | 1 cup

vanilla extract 1 teaspoon

fresh orange juice 2 tablespoons

bittersweet bar chocolate, grated 70 grams | one 3-ounce bar | ⅔ cup

GLAZE

semisweet bar chocolate, roughly chopped 285 grams | one 10-ounce bar | 2½ cups

bittersweet bar chocolate, roughly chopped 285 grams | one 10-ounce bar | 2½ cups

heavy cream 245 grams | 1 cup

light corn syrup 1 tablespoon

1. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Grease and flour two 8-inch round layer cake pans.

2. In a small bowl, whisk together the 260 grams (2 cups) of flour, the baking powder, and the salt. In a large bowl, cream together the butter and sugar until well mixed and slightly fluffy. Add the eggs, one at a time. In a small bowl, combine the milk, vanilla, and orange juice.

3. Alternately add the flour mixture and the milk mixture to the butter mixture. Mix until the batter is smooth, 1 to 2 minutes. Toss the grated chocolate with the remaining 1 teaspoon of flour in a small bowl. Add to the cake batter and fold in gently just until combined. If you fold with enthusiasm there is a chance the batter will turn into a chocolate cake.

4. Divide the batter evenly between the two prepared pans. Rap the pans on the countertop to remove any air bubbles. Bake the cake for 20 minutes and rotate the pans for even baking. Bake for 8 to 10 minutes more, or until the cake starts to shrink away from the edges, the top is golden, and a toothpick comes out clean.

5. Let cool in the pans for 5 minutes and then invert each layer onto a rack and let cool completely before applying the glaze.

GLAZE

1. Place the chopped chocolate in a heatproof bowl. In a small saucepan, heat the cream and corn syrup until small bubbles appear—right before it simmers. Remove from the heat and pour over the chopped chocolate. Let the mixture sit undisturbed for 1 minute, then stir gently to avoid incorporating any air into the glaze, just until the chocolate is completely melted.

2. Let the glaze cool for 10 to 15 minutes, stirring occasionally. Pour over the cooled bottom layer of cake and let it drip down the sides. Add the top layer and repeat. Let the chocolate set at room temperature, about 30 minutes.

Annie’s second birthday, where she is convinced all cakes are heart-shaped and chocolate.

BERRY LEMON CUPCAKES

Makes 12 cupcakes

Baking time: 18 to 22 minutes

A lemon cupcake swirled with a berry reduction and topped with berry-flavored Swiss buttercream (a meringue-based alternative to confectioners’ sugar–based buttercream) is a cupcake that signals springtime. This is a nice change from the ubiquitous plain yellow cupcake, and with one bite you’ll know it is special. The cupcake can be made with any seasonal berry you wish, making it as versatile as a little black dress that never goes out of style.

BERRY REDUCTION

fresh berries 170 grams | 1 half-pint

sugar 2 tablespoons

warm water 2 tablespoons

raspberry liqueur, Framboise preferred, optional 1 tablespoon

freshly grated lemon zest 5 grams | 1 tablespoon

BERRY LEMON CUPCAKES

Nosh AP GF flour 175 grams | 1⅓ cups

sugar 175 grams | ¾ cup plus 2 tablespoons

lemon zest, freshly grated 5 grams | 1 tablespoon

baking powder 1 teaspoon

kosher salt ¼ teaspoon

baking soda ¼ teaspoon

unsalted butter, melted 130 grams | 9 tablespoons or ½ cup plus 1 tablespoon

vanilla extract ½ teaspoon

lemon extract 1 teaspoon

eggs 120 grams | 2 extra-large

fresh lemon juice 2 tablespoons

buttermilk 80 grams | ⅓ cup

Berry Reduction (above) 1 to 3 tablespoons, to taste

BERRY SWISS BUTTERCREAM

egg whites 105 grams | 3 extra-large

sugar 200 grams | 1 cup

kosher salt ¼ teaspoon

cream of tartar ¼ teaspoon

unsalted butter, slightly softened 180 grams | 12 tablespoons or ¾ cup

vanilla extract 1 teaspoon

Berry Reduction (above) 2 to 4 tablespoons, to taste

fresh berries 12 berries

BERRY REDUCTION

1. In a small saucepan, place the berries, sugar, water, raspberry liqueur (if using), and lemon zest. Cook over medium heat until the mixture simmers. Lower the heat and simmer gently until the berries are mushy and the mixture thickens, 5 to 8 minutes, stirring often.

2. Strain into a container and let cool to room temperature. Set the reduction aside for swirling in the cupcake batter and the buttercream.

BERRY LEMON CUPCAKES

1. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Place liners in a cupcake pan.

2. Place the flour in a medium bowl. In a small bowl, using clean fingertips, mix the sugar and lemon zest together until the sugar turns pale yellow. Add to the flour. Add the baking powder, salt, and baking soda and whisk to combine. Stir together the butter, vanilla, lemon extract, eggs, lemon juice, and buttermilk. Add to the dry mixture and mix until the batter is smooth.

3. Place one quarter of the batter in a small bowl. Add 1 to 3 tablespoons of the Berry Reduction, as desired, and stir until thoroughly mixed (it should look pale purple). Add back to the batter and marble just slightly. It will continue to marble when you scoop—so don’t overdo the marbling. Scoop into the prepared pan, filling each liner two-thirds full. Bake the cupcakes for 18 to 22 minutes, or just until a toothpick comes out clean. Let cool in the pan for a few minutes, then transfer to a rack and let the cupcakes cool completely before frosting.

BERRY SWISS BUTTERCREAM

1. Place the egg whites, sugar, salt, and cream of tartar in a double boiler and stir until the temperature reads 160°F, 4 to 5 minutes. Transfer the mixture to a large bowl. Using an electric mixer on high speed, whip until the whites have high glossy peaks and the bottom of the bowl is no longer warm when touched by your hand.

2. Switch to the paddle attachment if using a stand mixer (if using a hand mixer, just keep mixing). Turn the mixer speed to medium (and watch the whites deflate a little bit). Cut the butter into 1-inch cubes. Begin adding the butter, while continuing to beat, until it is all incorporated. Turn the mixer speed to high and beat until the buttercream comes together. It will go through a stage where it looks like a curdled wreck. Just keep going. It will eventually become a decent-looking buttercream. (It will happen within minutes in a stand mixer, but with a hand mixer it will take quite a bit longer, 10 to 12 minutes, depending on the power of your mixer. Don’t give up—it will come together.)

3. Once the buttercream looks smooth and pulls away from the edges of the bowl, add the vanilla and 2 to 4 tablespoons of Berry Reduction, as desired, and beat on high speed until well mixed. The buttercream should be a nice pale shade of berry color. Pipe onto the cooled cupcakes, using your choice of tip, and top each with a fresh berry.

4. Refrigerate until 30 minutes before serving. Store leftovers in the refrigerator for up to two days, but serve at room temperature, for best flavor.

COCONUT CUPCAKES

Makes 12 to 14 cupcakes

Baking time: 18 to 22 minutes

Dairy-free

Vanilla and coconut are like favorite cousins who should clearly visit together more often. If you love coconut, this cupcake will become a favorite. Be sure to use a good-quality canned full-fat coconut milk and unsweetened coconut, for best flavor.

Nosh AP GF flour 175 grams | 1⅓ cups

granulated sugar 200 grams | 1 cup

baking powder 1 heaping teaspoon

kosher salt ½ teaspoon

shortening 96 grams | 8 tablespoons or ½ cup

canned coconut milk 160 grams | ⅔ cup

eggs 180 grams | 3 extra-large

vanilla extract 1 teaspoon

unsweetened shredded coconut, toasted 15 grams | ½ cup

COCONUT BUTTERCREAM

shortening 96 grams | 8 tablespoons or ½ cup

confectioners’ sugar, sifted 330 grams | 3 cups

vanilla extract 1 teaspoon

canned coconut milk 1 to 3 tablespoons

unsweetened shredded coconut, toasted 15 grams | ½ cup

1. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Place liners in a cupcake pan.

2. In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, granulated sugar, baking powder, and salt. Cut the shortening into three or four pieces. Stir the coconut milk thoroughly. Add the shortening pieces, eggs, coconut milk, and vanilla to the dry mixture. Using an electric mixer on medium-low speed, mix the ingredients until the batter is smooth, lump-free, and a little bit fluffy, 2 to 3 minutes. Fold in the coconut. Fill each liner two-thirds full.

3. Bake the cupcakes for 18 to 22 minutes, or just until a toothpick comes out without crumbs. Let cool in the pan for a minute or two. Transfer the cupcakes to a rack and let cool completely before frosting with the buttercream.

COCONUT BUTTERCREAM

Using an electric mixer on low speed, whip together the shortening, confectioners’ sugar, vanilla, and 1 tablespoon of the coconut milk. Whip the mixture on high speed until it is light and fluffy. Add more coconut milk if the mixture is too stiff to pipe. Pipe or spoon onto each cupcake. Sprinkle the coconut on the top of each cupcake.

WHITE WEDDING CUPCAKES

Makes 16 to 18 cupcakes

Baking time: 17 to 19 minutes

White cupcakes are great for special events or parties. Be sure to find fancy greaseproof white cupcake liners to complete the look. When I serve these, we always feel as if we should get dressed up and use fancy dishes. Sometimes we do. Sometimes we eat leftovers for breakfast. What? You never ate a fancy cupcake for breakfast?

unsalted butter, slightly softened 150 grams | 10 tablespoons or ½ cup plus 2 tablespoons

superfine sugar 175 grams | ¾ cup plus 2 tablespoons

vanilla extract 1 teaspoon

almond extract ½ teaspoon

orange extract ½ teaspoon

egg 60 grams | 1 extra-large

egg whites 70 grams | 2 extra-large

Nosh AP GF flour 200 grams | 1½ cups

baking powder 1 heaping teaspoon

kosher salt ½ teaspoon

whole milk 120 grams | ½ cup

WHITE SWISS MERINGUE BUTTERCREAM

egg whites 140 grams | 4 extra-large

granulated sugar 200 grams | 1 cup

kosher salt ¼ teaspoon

cream of tartar ¼ teaspoon

unsalted butter, slightly softened 290 grams | 20 tablespoons or 1¼ cups

almond extract ½ teaspoon

orange extract ½ teaspoon

vanilla extract ¼ teaspoon

GF shiny sugar pearls, white decorative sugar, nonpareils, or sprinkles, for topping

1. Preheat the oven to 325°F. Place fancy-schmancy liners in a cupcake pan.

2. Using an electric mixer, cream the butter with the superfine sugar on medium speed until light and fluffy—almost like frosting. Stir in the vanilla, almond, and orange extracts. Add the egg and egg whites, mixing until fully incorporated.

3. In a small bowl, whisk the flour with the baking powder and salt. Add to the butter mixture and mix on medium speed until just incorporated. Add the milk and mix just until incorporated. Remove the bowl from the stand and using a silicone spatula, fold the batter to make sure all the dry stuff is mixed in.

4. Fill each liner just one-half full. These should bake with a flat top just below the cupcake liner rim, to accommodate the buttercream. Bake for 17 to 19 minutes, or just until a toothpick comes out without crumbs. Don’t let it get brown or golden—remember, you want a white cupcake. Let the cupcakes cool in the pan for a few minutes. Transfer the cupcakes to a rack to cool completely before frosting.

WHITE SWISS MERINGUE BUTTERCREAM

1. In a heatproof bowl, combine the egg whites, granulated sugar, salt, and cream of tartar. Place the bowl over a pan with simmering water (double boiler) and stir until the temperature reads 160°F, which should take 4 to 5 minutes. Using a stand or hand mixer on high speed, whip until the whites have high glossy peaks and the bottom of the bowl can be touched by your hand and it isn’t terribly hot, less than 5 minutes.

2. Switch to the paddle attachment if using a stand mixer (if using a hand mixer, just keep mixing as you were). Turn the mixer speed to medium (and watch the whites deflate a little bit). Cut the butter into 1-inch cubes. Begin adding the pieces of butter until it is all incorporated. Turn the mixer speed to high and mix until the buttercream comes together. It will go through a stage where it looks curdled and like a wreck. Just keep going. You will hear the mixture go from slosh to thump right before it changes to a decent-looking buttercream. (It will happen within minutes in a stand mixer but with a hand mixer will take quite a bit longer, 10 to 12 minutes, depending on the power of your mixer. Don’t give up—it will come together.)

3. Once the buttercream looks smooth and pulls away from the edge of the bowl, add the almond and orange extracts and vanilla. Pipe or spoon onto the cooled flat-top cupcakes. Sprinkle immediately with shiny sugar pearls or toppings of your choice.

4. Refrigerate until 30 minutes before serving. Store leftovers in the refrigerator but serve at room temperature, for best flavor.