My love affair with flowers continues with this flirty feminine apron pattern. The top is simple patchwork, and the skirt is made up of print fabric “flower petals.” The steps in this pattern aren’t difficult to execute, but it takes some time to make all those lush petals—40 in all.
* Fat quarters or ¼-yard cuts of 12 assorted print fabrics* for petals and apron top
* ½ yard of muslin for apron skirt foundation (underneath the petals)
* 1⅛ yard of contrasting fabric for apron lining, waistband, and ties
* Coordinating thread
*For this project, I used a Moda Layer Cake, which is a stack of 10” × 10” precuts in coordinating prints.
Patterns are available to print from (http://tinyurl.com/InspiredToSew-Patterns)
note: Cut out the pattern pieces as marked; cut on the fold where indicated. See Sewing Basics on page 20.
From the 12 assorted print fabrics:
* Cut 12 squares 4” × 4” for the patchwork apron top.
* Cut 80 petals using pattern piece A.
From the muslin:
* Cut 1 each of pattern pieces C, D, E, F, and G for the apron skirt foundation.
From the contrasting fabric:
* Cut 1 piece 10½” x 14½” for the apron top lining.
* Cut 1 pattern piece B for the apron skirt lining.
Keeping It Real
Chain Piecing
I like anything that saves time, and that is just what chain piecing does. When piecing multiples of 2 patches together, feed one after another into the machine without clipping the thread. Cut the pieces apart when you’re finished stitching.
* Cut 2 pieces 2” × 17” (1 for the waistband and 1 for the waistband lining).
* Cut 2 pieces 4½” × 42” for the waistband ties.
* Cut 2 pieces 3” × 24” for the neck ties.
1. Sandwich your petal pieces in pairs, right sides together.
2. Take 1 pair and, using a ¼” seam allowance, sew from a top edge of the petal around the bottom to the other top edge as shown, leaving the top open. As you get to the end, do not remove from the machine or cut the thread. Simply take the next pair of petals and repeat until you have 40 petals total.
3. Cut the threads connecting the petals and trim all extra thread. Clip the seam allowance around the curved edges, being careful not to clip through the stitching.
4. Press the seams flat and then turn right side out and press again.
5. On the right side of each skirt foundation panel piece, mark ¼” from each end. You can use chalk or just a pin.
note: The foundation panel patterns are lettered C through G, starting with the top panel. Be sure to mark each piece with its letter before you set it aside and move to the next. I usually just pin on a lettered sticky note.
6. Aligning the raw edges of the petals with the top raw edge of the panel, place 1 petal at each end of Panel C on the inside of your ¼” mark.
7. Add petals, overlapping about ½”—one over, the next under, and so on—until you have a total of 6 petals along the top edge of the panel. Baste in place, using a scant ¼” seam allowance.
8. Repeat Steps 6 and 7 on the next 4 panels, increasing the number of petals on each panel by 1. (Panel C: 6 petals; Panel D: 7 petals; Panel E: 8 petals; Panel F: 9 petals; Panel G: 10 petals)
1. Take Panel C and flip all of the petals up to expose the bottom raw edge of the muslin panel easily.
2. Place Panel D on Panel C, right sides together, matching the bottom raw edge of Panel C with the top raw edge of Panel D. Pin in place, sew, and press.
3. Follow Steps 1 and 2 for the rest of the panels until you have all 5 panels sewn together and all seams pressed open.
note: If you haven’t pieced squares for a quilt or other project before, see Keeping It Real: Perfect Patchwork Piecing (page 58).
1. Sew together the 4” × 4” squares in 3 rows of 4 squares each. Press.
2. Sew the rows together and press.
3. Fold each waistband tie in half lengthwise, right sides together, and press. At an end of each tie, fold the raw edge into a triangle toward the folded edge as shown. Starting at the tip of the triangle, sew along the angle, then sew the raw edges of the fabric together as shown.
4. Trim the excess fabric. Press the seam flat, turn, and press again, teasing the seam out neatly. (For a tip on turning, see Keeping It Real: Turning Corners and Edges, page 25.)
5. Repeat Steps 3 and 4 to make the 2 neck ties.
Now you’re ready to put together the apron top, waistband, and skirt.
1. Pin, then sew the top edge of the apron skirt to a long edge of the waistband. Press the seam flat, and then press it toward the skirt.
2. Center the patchwork top on the remaining waistband edge. Pin, then sew the top and waistband together. Press the seam flat; then press it toward the waistband.
3. On the right side of the apron top, mark ¼” in from the side edges for the neck ties. Pin the ties in place just inside the marks, matching the raw edges. Baste, using a ⅛” seam allowance.
4. At the raw end of each waistband tie, press the center into a small pleat to fit the end of the waistband.
5. Pin the pleated ends of the waistband ties to the ends of the waistband, with raw edges even. Baste, using a ⅛” seam allowance.
Repeat Steps 1 and 2 from Assemble the Apron Front (page 37) to sew together the 3 pieces of the lining: apron top, waistband, and apron skirt. Leave a 6” opening in the center of the waistband/skirt seam to turn the apron right side out after the lining is attached.
1. Pin all of the petals and ties toward the inside of the apron so they are completely out of the way of your stitching.
2. Pin the apron front to the lining with right sides together. Sew, then press.
note: Make sure you feel for the edges of the petals and the ties as you sew. You want to sew as close as you can to them without going over them.
3. Turn the apron right side out through the opening in the waistband seam. Whipstitch the opening closed. Press.