Neoclassic Buttercream

Makes 420 grams/2 cups buttercream; double the recipe for a 9 inch two-layer cake or 13 by 9 inch sheet cake

This is a silky smooth buttercream that can be flavored in many ways. Buttercream made with egg yolks not only has extra flavor, but because the yolks are also great emulsifiers they produce a silky texture. Classic buttercream, which is usually made with a sugar-water syrup, requires an accurate thermometer, but this version, which uses corn syrup, makes taking the temperature unnecessary. A handheld mixer works best for this amount, but if doubling the recipe a stand mixer is fine.

unsalted butter 227 grams 16 tablespoons (2 sticks)
3 (to 4) large egg yolks (see Baking Pearls) 56 grams 3½ tablespoons (52.5 ml)
superfine sugar 75 grams ¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons
corn syrup 82 grams ¼ cup (59 ml)
pure vanilla extract . 1 teaspoon (5 ml)

Mise en Place

One hour ahead, set the butter on the counter at room temperature (70º to 75ºF/21º to 23ºC).

Shortly before making the buttercream, into a medium bowl, weigh or measure the egg yolks.

Have ready a 1 cup glass measure with a spout, lightly coated with nonstick cooking spray, near the cooktop.

Make the Buttercream

1. With a handheld mixer on high speed, beat the egg yolks until light in color.

2. In a small saucepan, preferably nonstick, stir together the sugar and corn syrup until all the sugar is moistened.

3. Cook on medium heat, stirring constantly, until the sugar dissolves and the syrup is bubbling all over the surface with large bubbles. Immediately transfer the syrup to the glass measure to stop the cooking.

4. Add the syrup to the egg yolks, a little at a time, keeping it well away from the beaters to prevent it from spinning onto the sides of the bowl. (If using a stand mixer fitted with the whisk beater, begin by pouring in a small amount of syrup. Immediately beat on high speed for 5 seconds. Add the remaining syrup in three parts, with the mixer off between additions.) For the last addition, use a silicone spatula to remove the syrup clinging to the glass measure and scrape it against the beater.

5. Continue beating on high speed for 5 minutes. Then allow the mixture to cool completely. To speed cooling, you can place the bowl in an ice water bath or in the refrigerator, stirring occasionally.

6. When the outside of the bowl feels cool to the touch, beat in the butter by the tablespoon on medium-high speed. The buttercream will not thicken completely until almost all of the butter has been added.

7. Beat in the vanilla on low speed until it is incorporated. If using a stand mixer, for a smoother, less airy consistency, switch to the flat beater and beat for an additional 2 minutes.

8. Place the buttercream in an airtight bowl. Use it at once or keep at room temperature for up to 4 hours. If keeping it longer, refrigerate the buttercream; before using, bring it to room temperature and beat it to restore the texture. To avoid curdling, do not beat when it is still cold.

Store Airtight: room temperature, 6 hours; refrigerated, 1 week; frozen, 6 months.

Baking Pearls

If you are concerned about using raw egg yolks, use pasteurized eggs in the shell (see Raw or Partially Cooked Eggs).

The ratio of white to yolk in an egg can vary to such a degree that you may need 3 or 4 eggs for this recipe. It is therefore advisable to weigh or measure the separated yolks and add or reduce if needed.

When making the syrup for this neoclassic version, corn syrup replaces the water. The entire surface needs to be covered with bubbles to reach the proper temperature. When brought to a full boil, it reaches about 238°F/114°C, which is the same temperature as when making a classic buttercream.

Using a handheld mixer makes it easier to keep the syrup from spinning onto the sides of the bowl. You can add the syrup while a stand mixer is on; just take care not to drizzle the syrup onto the beaters.

The egg and syrup mixture must be completely cool to the touch before you add the butter.

Make This Recipe Your Own

For a whole-egg recipe, replace the egg yolks with 1½ whole eggs (75 grams/4¾ tablespoons/70 ml). You will have 440 grams/2¼ cups buttercream. It will be slightly fluffier but also slightly less flavorful.

Golden syrup can be substituted in equal weight or measure for the corn syrup. It offers a lovely lilting butterscotch flavor. It will have a slight crunch until it stands for several hours.

Your favorite honey also can be substituted for the corn syrup. Use 112 grams/⅓ cup/79 ml.

Additions to the Completed Buttercream

Chocolate Buttercream

Beat in 85 grams/3 ounces dark chocolate, 60% to 70% cacao, melted and cooled.

Coffee Buttercream

Beat in 30 grams/2 tablespoons/30 ml coffee extract or 1 tablespoon/4 grams instant espresso powder, such as Medaglia d’Oro, dissolved in ½ teaspoon/2.5 ml water. This can also be added to the chocolate buttercream above for a mocha version.

Lemon or Orange Buttercream

Beat in ¼ teaspoon/1.2 ml pure lemon or orange oil, preferably Boyajian; do not use extracts, which can have an off taste. (Alternatively, beat in 12 grams/2 tablespoons loosely packed finely grated zest.

Strawberry Buttercream

Beat in 95 grams/⅓ cup strawberry butter, preferably American Spoon brand, or strained strawberry preserves. If using the preserves, add 1 teaspoon/5 ml freshly squeezed lemon juice.

Making Neoclassic Buttercream

Beat the yolks until light in color.

Cook the syrup until the entire surface is covered in bubbles.

Add the sugar syrup to the yolks in three parts.

Beat for 5 seconds between each addition.

Beat on high speed for 5 minutes.

Beat in the softened butter.