There's a whiff of Paris in Turin's elegant tree-lined boulevards and echoes of Vienna in its stately art nouveau cafes, but make no mistake – this elegant, Alp-fringed city is utterly self-possessed. The industrious Torinese gave the world its first saleable hard chocolate and Italy's most iconic car, the Fiat.
Its now booming contemporary art and architecture, live-music scene and innovative food and wine culture are definitely aspects you'll want to discover.
History
The ancient Celtic-Ligurian city of Taurisia was destroyed by Hannibal in 218 BC and the Roman colony of Augusta Taurinorum, established here almost two centuries later, saw succeeding invasions of Goths, Lombards and Franks.
In 1563 the Savoys abandoned their old capital of Chambéry (now in France) to set up court in Turin, which shared the dynasty's fortunes thereafter. The Savoys annexed Sardinia in 1720, but Napoleon put an end to their power when he occupied Turin in 1798. Turin was then controlled by Austria and Russia before Vittorio Emanuele I restored the House of Savoy and re-entered Turin in 1814. Nevertheless, Austria remained the true power throughout northern Italy until the Risorgimento in 1861, when Turin became the nation's inaugural capital. Piedmont, with its wily president, the Count of Cavour, was the engine room of the Risorgimento (literally 'the Resurgence', or Italian unification). Its capital status lasted only until 1864, and the parliament had already moved to Florence by the time full-sized chambers were completed.
Turin adapted quickly to its loss of political significance, becoming a centre for industrial production during the early 20th century. Giants such as Fiat lured hundreds of thousands of impoverished southern Italians to Turin and housed them in vast company-built and -owned suburbs. Fiat's owners, the Agnelli family (who also happen to own the Juventus football club, Turin's local newspaper and a large chunk of the national daily Corriere della Sera), remain one of Italy's most powerful establishment forces. Fiat's fortunes declined later in the 20th century, however, and only revived around a decade ago.
The highly successful 2006 Winter Olympics were a turning point for the city. The Olympics not only ushered in a building boom, including a brand-new metro system, but also transformed Turin from a staid industrial centre into a vibrant metropolis. Turin was European Capital of Design in 2008, hosting conferences and exhibitions, and the national focus of celebrations of the 150th anniversary of the Risorgimento in 2011.
1Sights
Got a week? You might need it to see all the sights Turin has to offer. The time-poor can concentrate on a trio of highlights: the Museo Egizio, the Mole Antonelliana and the Museo Nazionale dell'Automobile.
oMuseo EgizioMUSEUM
(Egyptian Museum;
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; 
%011 561 77 76; www.museoegizio.it; Via Accademia delle Scienze 6; adult/reduced €15/11; 
h9am-6.30pm Tue-Sun, 9am-2pm Mon)
Opened in 1824 and housed in the austere Palazzo dell'Accademia delle Scienze, this Turin institution houses the most important collection of Egyptian treasure outside Cairo. Among its many highlights are a statue of Ramses II (one of the world's most important pieces of Egyptian art) and the world's largest papyrus collection. There are also 500 funerary and domestic items from the tomb of royal architect Kha and his wife Merit, dating to 1400 BC and found in 1906.
Both anthropomorphic coffins are incredibly moving, but Merit's image, rendered in cartonnage (layers of plaster and linen), gold leaf and glass inlays, is one of the most hauntingly beautiful ever displayed.
A major renovation was completed in 2015 and, although the old museum's rambling rooms had their dusty charm, the new minimalist spaces almost double the amount of the collection available for public display. Modern museological techniques – splicing in documentary photographs and films about the early 20th-century digs, dramatic lighting and a well-articulated chronological narrative – make for an absorbing experience.
oMuseo Casa MollinoARCHITECTURE
(
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; %011 812 98 68; cm@carlomollino.org; Via Napione 2; 1-2hr tour €30; hby appointment)
Architect-designer-artist Carlo Mollino is perhaps Turin's most intriguing son, a quintessentially 20th-century Torinese. The little-known Museo Casa Mollino is a testament to his deliriously lush aesthetic, his skill as a craftsman, as well as his manifold obsessions. It was also where many of his theatrical, erotically-charged Polaroid portraits were shot. Father and son Fulvio and Napoleone Ferrari are dedicated keepers of his legacy and compelling interpreters and storytellers.
For those with a passion for 20th-century art and architecture, it's a profoundly rewarding experience. Tours must be prearranged by email.
oCastello di RivoliGALLERY
(Museo d'Arte Contemporanea;
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; www.castellodirivoli.org; Piazza Mafalda di Savoia; adult/reduced €6.50/4.50, Tue free; h10am-5pm Tue-Fri, to 7pm Sat & Sun)
Castello di Rivoli Museum of Contemporary Art's establishment in 1984 came about as the canny Torinese realised contemporary art could help build a new identity for the city. Its ambition and reach, not to mention healthy regional funding, has since been the envy of Milan, Venice and Rome's art worlds. The permanent collection has a sizeable number of Arte Povera works which are beautifully displayed in the historical setting, along with pieces from the Transavanguardia, Minimal, Body and Land Art movements.
oMuseo Nazionale dell'AutomobileMUSEUM
(
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; %011 67 76 66; www.museoauto.it; Corso Unità d'Italia 40; adult/reduced €12/8; h10am-7pm Wed, Thu & Sun, to 9pm Fri & Sat, to 2pm Mon, 2-7pm Tue; 
mLingotto)
As the historic birthplace of one of the world's leading car manufacturers – the ‘T’ in Fiat stands for Torino – Turin is the obvious place for a car museum. This dashing modern museum, located roughly 5km south of the city centre, doesn't disappoint with its precious collection of over 200 automobiles – everything from an 1892 Peugeot to a 1980 Ferrari 308 (in red, of course).
The museum – rather than leaving you to gawp helplessly at boring engines – takes you on a rollercoaster journey spread over three floors; the first part a car chronology, the second a more technical look at car design, and the third a self-critical assessment of issues such as pollution and congestion.
Fondazione MerzGALLERY
(
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; %011 1971 9437; http://fondazionemerz.org; Via Limone 24; adult/reduced €6/3; h11am-7pm Tue-Sun)
The Arte Povera powerhouse, Mario Merz, was born in Milan but spent most of his creative life in Turin. This foundation space, an evocative reworking of the former Lancia heating plant, holds regular exhibitions of his work and an astute program of Italian contemporary art. It also plays host to an internationally significant emerging artist prize.
Fondazione Sandretto re RebaudengoGALLERY
(FSRR;
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; %011 2799 7600; www.fsrr.org; Via Modane 16; adult/reduced €5/3, free Thu; h8-11pm Thu, noon-7pm Fri-Sun)
This classic white-cube contemporary gallery space was created with Italian super curator Francesco Bonami and runs a great exhibition program, with big-name Italians such as Maurizio Cattelan often making an appearance and provocative thematic shows that bring mid-career Europeans together with their younger peers.
Juventus MuseumMUSEUM
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; www.juventus.com; Strada Comunale di Altessano 131; museum €15, incl stadium visit €22; h10.30am-6.30pm Mon & Wed-Fri, to 7.30pm Sat & Sun)
The state-of-the-art Juventus Stadium has a museum that will blind you with its silverware (32 Serie A titles – and the rest!) and proudly recount how it was all amassed. On match days your museum visit can include viewing the team's match prep behind the scenes (€30).
Reggia di Venaria RealePALACE
(
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; %011 499 23 33; www.lavenaria.it; Piazza della Repubblica; admission incl exhibitions €25, Reggia & gardens €16, gardens only €5; h9am-5pm Tue-Fri, to 6.30pm Sat & Sun)
OK, it may not enjoy the weighty publicity of its French counterpart, but this is one of the largest royal residences in the world, rescued from ruin by a €235 million 10-year-long restoration project. Humongous, ostentatious, regal, yet strangely under-publicised, this Unesco-listed baroque palace complex was built as a glorified hunting lodge in 1675 by the frivolous Duke of Savoy, Carlo Emanuele II.
Basilica di SupergaBASILICA
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; www.basilicadisuperga.com; Strada della Basilica di Superga 75; adult/reduced €5/4; h10am-1.30pm & 2.30-6pm winter, to 7pm summer)
Vittorio Amedeo II's 1706 promise, to build a basilica to honour the Virgin Mary if Turin was saved from besieging French and Spanish armies, resulted in this wedding cake edifice, built on a hill across the Po river.
Cattedrale di San Giovanni BattistaCATHEDRAL
(
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; www.duomoditorino.it; Via XX Settembre 87; h9am-12.30pm & 3-7pm)
Turin's cathedral was built between 1491 and 1498 on the site of three 14th-century basilicas and, before that, a Roman theatre. Plain interior aside, as home to the Shroud of Turin (still alleged to be the burial cloth in which Jesus' body was wrapped, despite years of controversy), this is a highly trafficked church. A copy of the famous cloth is on permanent display to the left of the cathedral altar.
Museo Nazionale del Risorgimento ItalianoMUSEUM
(
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; %011 562 11 47; www.museorisorgimentotorino.it; Via Accademia delle Scienze 5; adult/reduced €10/8; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun)
After extensive renovations, this significant museum reopened in 2011 to coincide with the centenary of the Risorgimento (reunification period). An astounding 30-room trajectory illustrates the creation of the modern Italian state in the very building (the baroque Palazzo Carignano) where many of the key events happened. Not only was this the birthplace of Carlo Alberto and Vittorio Emanuele II, but it was also the seat of united Italy's first parliament from 1861 to 1864.
Pinacoteca Giovanni e Marella AgnelliGALLERY
(Lingotto;
GOOGLE MAP
; www.pinacoteca-agnelli.it; Via Nizza 230; adult/reduced €10/8; h10am-7pm Tue-Sun; mLingotto)
On the rooftop of the Lingotto Fiere, 3km south of the centre, this intimate gallery houses the personal collection of late Fiat head Gianni Agnelli, with masterpieces by Canaletto, Renoir, Manet, Matisse and Picasso, among others. Apart from the paintings, your ticket grants you access to the Lingotto's famous rooftop test track.
It also has an attached bookshop, full of wonderful art and design titles. When there's no temporary exhibition showing, the gallery admission is €8.
Piazza CastelloPIAZZA
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Turin's central square is lined with museums, theatres and cafes. The city's Savoy heart, although laid out from the mid-1300s, was mostly constructed from the 16th to 18th centuries. Dominating it is the part-medieval, part-baroque Palazzo Madama, the original seat of the Italian parliament. To the north, is the exquisite facade of the Palazzo Reale, the royal palace built for Carlo Emanuele II in the mid-1600s.
Galleria Civica d'Arte Moderna e ContemporaneaGALLERY
(GAM;
GOOGLE MAP
; %011 442 95 18; www.gamtorino.it; Via Magenta 31; adult/reduced €10/8; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun)
GAM was one of Italy's first modern art museums and has an astounding 45,000 works in its vaults dedicated to 19th- and 20th-century European artists, including De Chirico, Otto Dix and Klee. It's a great place to expand your knowledge of Italy's post-war period: Paolini, Boetti, Anselmo, Penone and Pistoletto are all well represented.
Private View GalleryGALLERY
(
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; %011 668 68 78; www.privateviewgallery.com; Via Goito 16; h3-7pm Tue-Sat, or by appointment)
Silvia and Mauro's San Severino space is possibly Turin's most interesting commercial contemporary gallery. Shows might be by a local artist or a hot new New Yorker.
Museo Ettore FicoGALLERY
(MEF;
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; %011 85 30 65; www.museofico.it; Via Francesco Cigna 114; adult/reduced €10/5; h2-7pm Wed-Fri, from 11am Sat & Sun)
This exciting new space joins Turin's already stellar collection of contemporary art foundations. Set in an old factory in a rapidly hipsterising, post-industrial neighbourhood north of the Dora River, MEF has three major shows per year, with high-profile monographic exhibitions as well as installation work by contemporary artists, along with design, fashion or film-based shows. Work by Ettore Fico, the late Torinese painter to whom the museum is dedicated, also features.
Porta PalatinaROMAN SITE
(
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; Piazza Cesare Augusto)
The low-key and little-visited Porta Palatina is, in fact, one of the best preserved 1st-century BC Roman gateways in the world. Together with the remains of the Roman city walls, it forms a small but lovely open-air archaeological park.
Roman AmphitheatreROMAN SITE
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Razed to the ground by Napoleon's armies, little remains of this 1st-century amphitheatre, but it's still an atmospheric spot to stroll around.
Palazzo RealeMUSEUM
(
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; www.ilpalazzorealeditorino.it; Piazza Castello; adult/reduced €12/6, 1st Sun of month free; h9am-7pm Tue-Sun)
Statues of the mythical twins Castor and Pollux guard the entrance to this eye-catching palace and, according to local hearsay, also watch over the magical border between the sacred and diabolical halves of the city. Built for Carlo Emanuele II around 1646, its lavishly decorated rooms house an assortment of furnishings, porcelain and other decorative objects. The Giardino Reale (Royal Garden;
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; h9am-1hr before sunset), north and east of the palace, was designed in 1697 by André Le Nôtre, who also created the gardens at Versailles.
The Palazzo Reale ticket allows you to view the Galleria Sabauda, the personal art collection of the Savoy monarchy, which was amassed over 400 years and includes gems by Van Dyck, Rubens and Lippi. Since 2012, the collection has been housed in the Manica Nuova, the newer wing of the Palazzo Reale. On Thursdays in August and September, you can visit until 10pm for €2.
Museo Nazionale del CinemaMUSEUM
(
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; %011 813 85 60; www.museocinema.it; Via Montebello 20; adult/reduced €10/8, incl lift €14/11; h9am-8pm Sun, Mon & Wed-Fri, to 11pm Sat)
Housed in the Mole Antonelliana, this enjoyable museum takes you on a fantastic tour through cinematic history. Memorabilia on display includes Marilyn Monroe’s black lace bustier, Peter O’Toole’s robe from Lawrence of Arabia and the coffin used by Bela Lugosi’s Dracula. At the heart of the museum, the vast Temple Hall is surrounded by 10 interactive ‘chapels’ devoted to various film genres.
There's also a cinema that often shows version-original English-language art house films.
Lingotto FiereLANDMARK
(
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; www.lingottofiere.it; Via Nizza 294; mLingotto)
Turin's former Fiat factory, one of Italy's most praised examples of early-20th-century industrial architecture, is 5km south of the city centre. It was redesigned by architect Renzo Piano in the 1980s to house an exhibition centre, a university campus and hotels. While still starkly beautiful, the shopping mall that occupies much of its accessible space is less than inspiring.
Lingotto is on the M1 metro line and easily accessible from the city centre.
Museo Civico d'Arte AnticaMUSEUM
(Palazzo Madama;
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; %011 443 35 01; www.palazzomadamatorino.it; Piazza Castello; adult/reduced €10/8; h10am-6pm Wed-Mon)
A part-medieval, part-baroque castle built in the 13th century on the site of the old Roman gate, this palazzo is named after Madama Reale Maria Cristina, the widow of Vittorio Amedeo I (Duke of Savoy, 1630–37). Today, much of the building houses this expansive museum, which contains four floors of mostly decorative arts from medieval to the post-unification period, along with temporary exhibitions of contemporary art.
Museo della SindoneMUSEUM
(
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; www.sindone.org; Via San Domenico 28; adult/reduced €6/5; h9am-noon & 3-7pm)
Encased in the crypt of Santo Sudario church, this fascinating museum documents one of the most studied objects in human history: the Holy Shroud. Despite the shroud's dubious authenticity, its story unfolds like a gripping suspense mystery, with countless plots, subplots and revelations. Note the shroud itself is not on display here; it's kept in the Duomo and shown occasionally by decree of the Pope.
Mole AntonellianaLANDMARK
(
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; www.gtt.to.it/cms/turismo/ascensore-mole; Via Montebello 20; lift adult/reduced €7/5, incl Museo €14/11; hlift 10am-8pm Sun, Mon & Wed-Fri, to 11pm Sat)
The symbol of Turin, this 167m tower with its distinctive aluminium spire appears on the Italian two-cent coin. It was originally intended as a synagogue when construction began in 1862, but was never used as a place of worship, and nowadays houses the Museo Nazionale del Cinema. For dazzling 360-degree views, take the Panoramic Lift up to the 85m-high outdoor viewing deck.
Chiesa di Gran Madre di DioCHURCH
(
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; Piazza Gran Madre di Dio)
A grand backdrop across the Po from Piazza Vittorio Veneto, this church was built in the style of a mini-Pantheon from 1818 to 1831 to commemorate the return of Vittorio Emanuele I from exile. It's small and rounded inside; some claim it's yet another secret repository for the Holy Grail.
In 1969 the church was memorably featured in the film The Italian Job when Michael Caine and his gang drove their Mini Coopers down the front staircase.
4Sleeping
oVia StampatoriB&B€
(
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; %339 2581330; www.viastampatori.com; Via Stampatori 4; s/d €90/110; 
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This utterly lovely B&B occupies the top floor of a frescoed Renaissance building, one of Turin's oldest. Six bright, stylish and uniquely furnished rooms overlook either a sunny terrace or a leafy inner courtyard. The owner's personal collection of 20th-century design is used throughout, including in the two serene common areas. It's central but blissfully quiet.
oTomato Backpackers HotelHOSTEL€
(
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; %011 020 94 00; www.tomato.to.it; Via Pellico 11; dm/s/d/tr €24/44/59/85; W)
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This ecofriendly hostel in the boozy San Salvario area is one of the few central places that caters to budget travellers. And it does so with style and soul, offering pristine dorms, smart private rooms, a kitchen and communal lounge. There's a relaxed, inclusive vibe and a long list of extras including laundry facilities and luggage storage.
San GiorsBOUTIQUE HOTEL€
(
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; %011 521 63 57; www.hotelsangiors.it; Via Borgo Dora 3; s €75, d €90-110; W)
If you're not perturbed by a still-gentrifying neighbourhood, this welcoming family-run place offers individual artist-decorated rooms that are basic but often include beautiful vintage design pieces and a witty, bohemian eye. The restaurant comes highly recommended, and come Saturday, you're in the thick of the Balon, one of Italy's best flea markets.
Ostello TorinoHOSTEL€
(
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; %011 660 29 39; www.ostellotorino.it; Via Giordano Bruno 191; dm/s/d without bathroom €17/25/42; 
a
i)
Turin's neat 76-bed HI hostel, 1.8km from Stazione Porta Nuova, is around 10 minutes' walk from Lingotto station or can be reached by bus 52. Facilities include free breakfast, computer use and wi-fi; towels and AIG/HI membership are extra. If you're in town for a live act or DJ at Hiroshima Mon Amour, it's close by. Check for annual closing dates if visiting in Dec-Jan.
oDuParc Contemporary SuitesDESIGN HOTEL€€
(
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; %011 012 00 00; www.duparcsuites.com; Corso Massimo D'Azeglio 21; r/ste from €120/140; 
paW)
A business-friendly location doesn't mean this isn't a great choice for all travellers. Staff are young, clued-up and friendly, the building's iconic modern lines are matched with a fantastic contemporary art collection and tactile, comfortable furnishing along with stunning Italian lighting. Best of all, even the cheapest rooms here are sumptuously large, with king beds, ample cupboard space, huge baths and floor-to-ceiling windows.
There's a gym and basement spa area with saunas and a large whirlpool. Note that the location puts you in walking distance of the bars and restaurants of San Salvario and the elegant green avenues of Parco Valentino (
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Palazzo ChiableseB&B€€
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; %333 8862670; www.bbpalazzochiablese.com; Vicolo San Lorenzo 1; s €110-120, d €120-130; W)
Marta and Riccardo's two B&B rooms are the epitome of pared back Torinese elegance, and mix warm mid-century Italian design with contemporary paintings, beautiful linen, design-centric bathrooms and large white draped windows. Breakfast is taken in the apartment's stylish kitchen, adding to the feeling you're staying with friends, rather than at a hotel.
Le Due MatoteB&B€€
(
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; www.leduematote.com/en/torino/home; Via Garibaldi 31; s/d €110/135; aW)
Perched above Turin's favourite passeggiata (evening stroll) parade, this elegant B&B is a bastion of calm. Three classically decorated rooms come with features that are rare at this price: Nespresso machines in all rooms, marble-topped baths in two, and one with its own lushly planted terrace.
NH Lingotto TechBUSINESS HOTEL€€
(
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; %011 664 20 00; www.nh-hotels.com; Via Nizza 262; d €130-200; paW)
A unique perk awaits you at this hotel: the 1km running track on the roof is Fiat’s former testing track and featured in the film The Italian Job. Twentieth-century industrial bones also mean rooms are huge and bright, while the fit-out is high-2000s designer slick, with an industrial edge. A corporate favourite, facilities are comprehensive and include a 24-hour gym.
Ai SavoiaBOUTIQUE HOTEL€€
(
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; %339 1257711; www.aisavoia.it; Via del Carmine 1b; d €95-125; p)
Occupying an 18th-century town house, this little treasure seems like something you'd find in a small village. The classical decor of each of its three rooms is kitsch-ornate but staff are friendly and obliging.
NH Piazza CarlinaDESIGN HOTEL€€€
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; %848 39 02 30; www.nh-hotels.com; Piazza Carlo Emanuele II; s/d €180/220; paW)
Situated on one of Turin's most beautiful squares, this sprawling property occupies a 17th-century building, once the Albergo di Virtù, a Savoy charitable institution (and home to the famous political theorist Antonio Gramsci). The decor is cutting edge, highly atmospheric and deeply luxurious. There's a great downstairs bar and guests have access to rooftop terraces and a gym.
Breakfast is served in a stately courtyard among the hotel's own lemon trees.
Art Hotel BostonBOUTIQUE HOTEL€€€
(
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; %011 50 03 59; www.hotelbostontorino.it; Via Massena 70; s €90-115, d €115-300; aW)
The Boston's austere classical facade gives no inkling of the interiors that await inside. Public areas are filled with original works by Warhol, Lichtenstein and Aldo Mondino, while individually styled guest rooms are themed on subjects as diverse as Lavazza coffee, Ayrton Senna and Pablo Picasso.
Townhouse 70BOUTIQUE HOTEL€€€
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; %011 1970 0003; www.townhouse.it; Via XX Settembre 70; d €190-230; iW)
The Turin outpost of a Milanese boutique hotel chain, there's attitude here in spades but the large and comfortable rooms, a stellar location and a peaceful internal terrace make up for it.
5Eating
Turin is blessed with a hinterland fabulously rich in produce and tradition. Both can be found in its deliciously ancient grand cafes and dining rooms as well as its booming new bar and restaurant scene.
The Quadrilatero Romano has a concentrated clutch of small casual places or for pizza, tapas or cheap eats, head to San Salvario in the city's south.
oHafastorieMOROCCAN, PIEDMONTESE€
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; %011 1948 6765; http://hafastorie.it; Galleria Umberto I 10; meals €17-22; h11am-3pm & 4pm-midnight Tue-Fri, 9am-midnight Sat, 11.30am-4.30pm Sun)
A bright, stylish beacon in a beautiful, entirely un-revamped old arcade, Hafastorie is a passion project of its well-travelled owner. One side of the menu is a neat Maghrebi homage, with tagines, seven-vegetable couscous and spiced herb salads, while the other a beautifully edited list of Piedmontese favourites. Half serves are a rare bonus for those of more delicate appetites.
Ruràl PizzaPIZZA€
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; %011 235 9179; www.ruralpizza.it; Via Mantova 27; pizza €18-22; h12.30-2.30pm & 7.30-10.30pm Mon, Tue, Thu & Fri, 7.30-10.30pm Sat & Sun)
This happy, pretty pizzeria set in an old glassworks, does Sicilian-style pizza using good-quality ingredients, along with rather fancy desserts.
Société LutéceFRENCH, BAR€
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; %011 88 76 44; www.societelutece.it; Piazza Carlo Emanuele II 21; meals €25; hnoon-2am Mon-Sat, to 3pm Sun)
One of surprisingly few French places in the once Savoy city, Société Lutéce proudly flies the French flag – at least its menu does. Come for well-prepared French classics, from tartare to coq au vin to moules (mussels), salads and quiches for lunch, or just drop in for a spot of local conviviality and a glass of rosé or muscadet.
HostBISTRO, CAFE€
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; %011 765 33 76; Via Porta Palatina 13; meals €14-20; hnoon-3pm & 5-11pm Tue-Sat, noon-3pm Mon; 
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A bright, friendly spot for a simple pasta lunch or dinner, or an extended aperitivo. While not a vegetarian place, it's a favourite with many Torinese veggies, who come for the internationally-inflected meatless dishes.
Eataly IncontraPIEDMONTESE, SUPERMARKET€
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; %011 037 32 21; www.eataly.net; Via Lagrange 3; meals €18-25; hnoon-10.30pm, cafe from 8am, shop from 10am)
Perfect for a casual lunch or dinner, this mini-Eataly has shaded tables on the lovely pedestrian stretch of Lagrange. Food is fresh, simple and quick – think octopus and potato salad, cruda (raw minced steak) or linguine with pistachio pesto and stracciatella cheese – and the drinks list includes sulphur-free wines and artisan beers.
Perino VescoBAKERY€
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; %011 068 60 56; www.perinovesco.it; Via Cavour 10; snacks from €5; h7.30am-7.30pm Mon-Sat)S
Cult Slow Food baker Andrea Perino turns out the city's best grissini (bread sticks) along with dense, fragrant torta langarola (hazelnut cake), naturally yeasted panettone and focaccia that draws sighs from homesick Ligurians. Join the queues for takeaway pizza and focaccia slices or head out the back and nab a seat for sandwiches, pizza slices, savoury tarts and coffee.
È CucinaMODERN ITALIAN€
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; %011 562 90 38; www.cesaremarretti.com; Via Bertola 27a; meals €12-35; h12.30-3pm & 8-11pm)
Northern Italians are fond of a 'concept' and Bolognese chef Cesare Marretti's concept here is sorpesa (surprise). Beyond the choice of meat, fish or vegetables and the number of courses you want, it's up to the kitchen. What is certain is the innovative cooking and excellent produce that will arrive. Local's tip: don't be tempted to over order.
Gofri PiemontéisaFAST FOOD€
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; www.gofriemiassepiemontesi.it; Via San Tommaso 7; gofri €4.40-5; h11.30am-7.30pm Mon-Sat)
Gofri, thin waffles snap cooked in hot irons, are a traditional dish from the mountainous regions of northern Piedmont and have been reinvented here by a local chef as tasty fast food. Try the house gofre with ham, toma (alpine cheese) and artichokes or one of the equally delicious miasse, a corn-based variation, also adapted from ancient recipes.
GromGELATO€
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; www.grom.it; Piazza Pietro Paleocapa 1d; cones/cups from €2.50; h11am-11pm Sun-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat winter, to 1am Fri & Sat summer)S
At the vanguard of the gourmet gelato trend, the Grom chain founded their first store here in 2003, eschewing syrups and embracing sustainably sourced fresh ingredients. You can now lick a Grom cone in Paris or New York, but it's sweeter grabbing one in their home town. Look out for original Piedmontese flavours like gianduja (hazelnut chocolate) and lemon-scented cream.
Alberto MarchettiGELATO€
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; %011 839 08 79; www.albertomarchetti.it; Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 24; scoop €3; hnoon-midnight Tue-Sat, 1-11pm Sun)
Riding in the slipstream of the Grom phenomenon, Alberto Marchetti is a master of quality, managing every part of his gelato-making process, from fruit selection to the type of milk used. Scoops to seek out include mandarin and the interesting farina bona, a childhood pudding comfort flavour. Better than Grom? You decide.
oGaudenzioGASTRONOMY, PIEDMONTESE€€
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; %011 869 92 42; www.gaudenziovinoecucina.it; Via Gaudenzio Ferrari 2h; cichetti €5-12, meals €45; h6-11pm Tue-Sat, noon-3.30pm Sun)
Meet the gang who are intent on breaking down Italy's beloved course structure. It’s small plates here – although there is a sliding scale of small to large – and the innovative but sublimely local dishes are some of the city’s best. All wine is natural and/or from small producers and in lieu of a list, you and the sommelier will have a chat.
The space is small, smart and unfussy and although everything – produce, technique, wine, service – is thoughtful, serious even, there's something of a party vibe as the night wears on, with lots of fellow wine or food people popping in for a drink or snack at the bar.
oBanco vini e alimentiPIEDMONTESE€€
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; %011 764 02 39; www.bancoviniealimenti.it; Via dei Mercanti 13f; meals €25-30; h6.30pm-12.30am Mon, 12.30pm-12.30am Tue-Sat)
A hybrid restaurant-bar-deli, this smartly designed but low-key place does clever small-dish dining for lunch and dinner. While it might vibe casual wine bar, with young staff in T-shirts and boyfriend jeans, don't underestimate the food: this is serious Piedmontese cooking. Open all day, you can also grab a single-origin pour-over here in the morning, or a herbal house spritz late afternoon.
ConsorzioPIEDMONTESE€€
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; %011 276 76 61; http://ristoranteconsorzio.it/; Via Monte di Pietà 23; mains €30-40, set menu €34; h12.30-2.30pm Mon-Fri, 7.30-11pm Mon-Sat)
A Quadrilatero Romano institution, it can be almost impossible to secure a table here. Do book ahead, don't expect flash decor and pay the not-always-chummy staff no mind. Everyone is here for the pristinely sourced, spot-on Piedmontese cooking that's so traditional it's innovative.
The wine list, too, is thoughtful and occasionally provocative, and some of it is sourced from a family vineyard near Asti, and all of it is natural.
ScannabuePIEDMONTESE€€
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; %011 669 66 93; www.scannabue.it; Largo Saluzzo 25h; meals €30-40; h12.30-2.30pm & 7.30pm-midnight)
Scannabue, housed in a former corner garage, is a retro-fitted bistro that has a touch of Paris in its cast iron doors and tiled floors. There's a casual feel, but the cooking is some of Turin's most lauded.
Staples like baccalà (cod) are freshly matched with Jerusalem artichoke purée and crisped leeks, a starter reworks the French tarte Tatin into a thoroughly modern onion pie, and there's a club sandwich on offer if you miss service.
La SartoriaPIEDMONTESE€€
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; %011 046 16 83; www.ristorantelasartoria.com; Via Sant'Anselmo 27a; meals €35; h1-2pm Tue-Fri, 8-11pm Mon-Sat)
A forward-thinking chef runs this diminutive San Salvario place with much attention to detail and plenty of whimsical touches, both in his cooking and in the sweetly evocative tailor-shop decor. The pace is leisurely, the wine list good and dishes can be had as starters or mains. The menu, mostly creative takes on the Piedmont kitchen, makes occasional strides into the international (fish and chips! green curry!).
L'AcinoPIEDMONTESE€€
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; %011 521 70 77; Via San Domenico 2a; meals €35-40; h7.30-11.30pm Mon-Sat)
Half a dozen tables and a legion of enamoured followers mean this inviting restaurant is hard to get into. Book ahead or arrive at the stroke of 7.30pm for snails, tripe and ragù (meat stew) cooked in Roero wine, or classic Piedmontese pasta staples such as plin (ravioli). Their bonet (chocolate pudding) is considered one of the city's best.
OinosSUSHI, FUSION€€
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; %011 83 50 84; www.oinosristorante.it; Via della Rocca 39g; dishes €12-18; h12.30-3pm & 8pm-midnight Mon-Sat)
Turin's sushi obsession runs possibly only second to Milan's. Yes, like many of its counterparts, Oinos offers top-quality traditional Japanese raw plates, but also has a 'susciliano' menu that fuses Japanese technique with the ingredients of Italy's Mediterranean ports, especially those of Sicily. Raw fish teamed with citrus oils and capers, basil powder and almonds or spicy caponata? Genius.
Porto di SavonaTRATTORIA€€
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; %011 817 35 00; www.foodandcompany.com; Piazza Vittorio Veneto 2; meals €28; h12.30-2.30pm & 7.30-10.30pm)
An unpretentious trattoria that dates to Turin's capital days (ie the 1860s), it has a deserved reputation for superb agnolotti al sugo arrosto (Piedmontese ravioli in a meat gravy), and gnocchi di patate al gorgonzola. The mains – including bollito misto alla piemontese (boiled meat and vegetable stew) – are equally memorable.
Piano 35GASTRONOMY€€€
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; %011 438 78 00; www.grattacielointesasanpaolo.com/en/ristorante; Corso Inghilterra 3; meals €70, degustation €85/110; h12.30-2.30pm & 8-10.30pm Tue-Sat, dinner only Mon)
Much of Turin's fine dining is done in hallowed old Savoy surrounds, but Piano 35 is defiantly different. Its setting, atop the new Renzo Piano–designed Grattacielo Intesa San Paolo (at 166m, the city's second-tallest building), is the loftiest restaurant in Italy and, as you might imagine, light and super contemporary as well as being fringed with a small forest of indoor plants.
Food is big-occasion dining which is brought back to earth by its extensive use of wild herbs, heritage vegetables and traditional favourites.
Ristorante Del CambioGASTRONOMY€€€
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; %011 54 66 90; www.delcambio.it; Piazza Carignano 2; set menus from €60; h7.30-10.30pm Tue, 12.30-2.30pm & 7.30-10.30pm Wed-Sat, 12.30-2.30pm Sun)
Crimson velvet, glittering chandeliers, baroque mirrors and a timeless air greet you at this grande dame of the Turin dining scene, regularly patronised by Count Cavour in his day. It first opened its doors in 1757, and classic Piedmont cuisine still dominates the menu, although you'll eat in the company of some great contemporary art now, too. Bookings and smart dress are advised.
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