Who needs cena (dinner) when you've got bar snacks the size of...well...dinners? Turin’s answer to the aperitif is the apericena, where bar-side buffets resemble full-blown meals. Turin’s most groaning, if not always the best quality, apericenas can be had along Via Po and in Piazza Vittorio Veneto. Here, places such as La Drogheria serve up brimming bowls of pasta, artichoke pies and risotto along with meats, cheese and bread. The Quadrilatero quarter is another buffet wonderland – Pastis and Boka (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Piazza Emanuele Filiberto 7c; h5pm-1am) on Piazza Filiberto do a full carb-heavy spread, or keep it classy with just cheese at I Tre Galli. Expect to pay between €6 to €12 for an apericena-hour drink.
6Drinking & Nightlife
Nightlife – including the nightly aperitivo crawl – concentrates in the riverside area around Piazza Vittoria Veneto, the Quadrilatero Romano district and, with a younger crowd, the southern neighbourhood of San Salvarino. The Po-side enclaves of Vanchiglia and Dora are the city's new cool zone – both have some excellent wine bars and great live venues and club nights.
oI Tre GalliWINE BAR
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; www.3galli.com; Via Sant'Agostino 25; h12.30pm-2.30pm & 6.30pm-midnight Mon-Wed, to 2am Thu-Sat)
A Quadrilatero favourite that's been here for over two decades, spacious and rustic, cool but warm, Tre Galli is a fabulous spot for a drink at any time, but at its most local when the gourmet aperitivi appears around 6pm. The dinner menu is also worth investigating if you've not gorged on cheese already.
Bar CavourCOCKTAIL BAR
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %011 54 66 90; http://delcambio.it; Piazza Carignano 2; 7pm-1.30am Tue-Sat)
Named for its most famous barfly, the ubiquitous Count Cavour, this beautiful historical room combines a magical, mirrored setting with a great collection of contemporary art and design savvy. Upstairs from Del Cambio, a Michelin-starred restaurant, the aperitivo here doesn't come cheap but is an elegant respite from pizza slices.
Da EmiliaWINE BAR
(
GOOGLE MAP
; Corso San Maurizio 47; h11am-3am Mon-Fri, from 6pm Sat & Sun)
This Vanchiglia local is everything you could want in a neighbourhood bar: come for coffee, have a bite to eat, drop in for a good wine or nicely made cocktail in the early evening then end up hanging out to the small hours with bands playing late most nights of the week.
Luogo DivinoWINE BAR
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %011 1932 3530; www.luogodivino.com; Via San Massimo 13;
h6-11.30pm Tue-Sat, noon-3pm & 7-10.30pm Sun)
The excellent, and not ridiculously priced, wines here are poured after a discussion about your likes, mood and whims. While wine is the raison d'etre, it's hard not to mention the food too, which comes small-plate style, and is hugely creative but well-rooted in the Piedmontese landscape and ethos.
Farmacia Del CambioBAR
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %011 1921 1250; www.delcambio.it/farmacia; Piazza Carignano 2;
h9am-9.30pm)
Cambio Corner – home to one of Turin's best restaurants, not to mention bars – now has this 'informal' but glamorous all-day space, set within an old pharmacy dating to 1833. Pop in for morning coffee or to pick up deli goods, but do come back for aperitivo, either beneath the dark shelves, by the theatrically open kitchen or out on the piazza.
Enoteca BotzWINE BAR
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %340 2150497; www.facebook.com/enotecabotz; Via Santa Giulia 48;
h6pm-3am Tue-Sat, to midnight Sun & Mon)
A Vanchiglia triangle stalwart, come here for good wine served by serious wine pros at reasonable prices. Plus you get to hang out with some of the neighbourhood's cool kids at the same time. A good choice when you're too old (or tired) for clubs, but too young (or excited) to go home.
Barolino CocchiBAR, CAFE
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %011 436 76 41; Via Bonelli 16c;
h8.30am-5pm Mon-Fri, 7.30pm-1am Fri & Sat)
A beautifully decorated neighbourhood bolthole with excellent coffee during the week and convivial little amaro-fuelled (a dark liqueur prepared from herbs) sessions on Friday and Saturday nights.
Caffè-Vini Emilio RanziniWINE BAR
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %011 765 04 77; Via Porta Palatina 9g;
h9:30am-8.30pm Mon-Fri, 10:30am-5pm Sat)
Location scouts looking for a neighbourhood bar from Turin's mid-century glory days would jump on this little place. A crew of local shopkeepers, creatives and students frequently prop up its dark wooden bar and loll about the summer courtyard with wines by the glass, €1 boiled eggs and small plates.
BazaaarBAR
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; www.bazaaar.it; Via Stampatori 9; h7am-2am)
This big, bright corner space offers up everything from breakfast espressos to gelato to cocktails, all day, every day. A relaxing place to while away a few hours, you can also stay busy here with a calendar of musical acts on Saturday nights, and weekly events, including themed 'cook & roll' music and cooking nights.
La DrogheriaBAR
(
GOOGLE MAP
; www.la-drogheria.it; Piazza Vittorio Veneto 18; h10am-2am)
Occupying an old pharmacy, La Drogheria's vintage sofas are coveted by a laid-back, studenty crowd who enjoy drinks and a groaning, and unusually healthy, aperitivi buffet before hitting the clubs down by the Po.
PastisWINE BAR
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Piazza Emanuele Filiberto 9; h9am-3.30pm & 6pm-2am)
A cute take on Paris in the '60s, this day-night bar has a loyal local following. Young Torinese come for big weekend brunches, a nightly aperitivo spread or a late-night amaro or three.
Hiroshima Mon AmourCLUB
(
GOOGLE MAP
; www.hiroshimamonamour.org; Via Bossoli 83; admission free-€15; hhours vary)
This legendary dance club features everything from folk and punk to tango and techno. Check the website for specific opening hours and details on the weekend night bus.
While Turin's contemporary food and wine scene booms, some things – namely its classic cafes – stay the same.
Al BicerinCAFE
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; www.bicerin.it; Piazza della Consolata 5; h8.30am-7.30pm Thu-Tue, closed Aug)
Founded in 1763, with an exquisitely simple boiserie interior dating to the early 1800s, this one-room cafe takes its name from its signature drink, a potent combination of chocolate, coffee and cream. Fuelling the likes of Dumas, Puccini, Nietzsche and Calvino, along with Savoy royalty and Turin's workers, the price didn't rise for a century to ensure no one missed out.
Caffè MulassanoCAFE
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Piazza Castello 15; h7.30am-10.30pm)
Elbow your way to the bar or hope for a seat at one of the five wee tables at this art nouveau gem, where regulars sink espresso in piedi (standing) while discussing Juventus' current form with the bow-tied baristas.
Caffè San CarloCAFE
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Piazza San Carlo 156; h8am-midnight Tue-Fri, to 1am Sat, to 9pm Mon)
Perhaps the most gilded of the gilded, this glittery cafe dates from 1822. You'll get neckache admiring the weighty chandelier and pay for the privilege (€4 and upwards for coffee), but the service is the most genial of the old-school cafe clique.
FiorioCAFE
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Via Po 8; h8.30am-1am Tue-Sun)
Garner literary inspiration in Mark Twain's old window seat as you contemplate the gilded interior of a cafe where 19th-century students once plotted revolutions and the Count of Cavour deftly played whist. The bittersweet hot chocolate remains inspirational.
Caffè TorinoCAFE
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Piazza San Carlo 204; h7.30am-1am)
This chandelier-lit showpiece opened in 1903. A brass plaque of the city's emblem, a bull (Torino in Italian means 'little bull'), is embedded in the pavement out front; rub your shoe across it for good luck (you won't have to queue like in Milan).
3Entertainment
Most live-music venues are out of the centre either south in Lingotto and San Salvarino or to the north in Vanchiglia and Dora.
Teatro Regio TorinoTHEATRE
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %011 881 52 41; www.teatroregio.torino.it; Piazza Castello 215;
hticket office 10.30am-6pm Tue-Fri, to 4pm Sat & 1hr before performances)
Sold-out performances can sometimes be watched free on live TV in the adjoining Teatro Piccolo Regio, where Puccini premiered La Bohème in 1896, and it's always worth popping into the box office to see what might not be sold out. Sadly, some of Carlo Mollino's visionary mid-century fit-out did not survive subsequent renovations, but the seductive red, rhythmic foyer is still a treat. Tickets start at €55.
AstoriaLIVE MUSIC, CLUB
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %345 4483156; www.astoria-studios.com; Via Berthollet 13;
h7pm-4am Thu-Sat)
A street-side cocktail bar hides a basement venue that showcases some excellent international and local indie talent as well as club nights. Kicks Up on a Saturday is the most long running of these and pushes into psych and hip-hop from a rock and roll base. Tickets for larger shows can be bought online and picked up at the venue on the night.
BunkerLIVE MUSIC
( GOOGLE MAP ; www.variantebunker.com; Via Niccolò Paganini 0/200)
A multi-disciplinary collective that organises one of winter's best electronic and techno club nights as well as live concerts. Also worth checking out for their street-art exhibitions and various other hard-hitting cultural activities.
Blah BlahLIVE MUSIC
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %392 7045240; www.blahblahtorino.com; Via Po 21;
h7am-2am Mon-Thu, to 3am Fri, 8am-3am Sat, 9am-2am Sun)
An intriguing, and very Torinese, venue that will feed you breakfast or lunch, surprise you with an alternative cinema screening pre-aperitivo, have a cult international music act serenade you (say ex-Bad Seed Hugo Race and the Fatalists) after dinner and then keep you dancing till 3am.
Spazio 211LIVE MUSIC
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %011 1970 5919; www.spazio211.com; Via Cigna 21)
This long-established live-music venue, a 10-minute taxi ride north of the city centre, is the city's main venue for international indie acts, interesting theme nights, as well as big Italian names like Guida. Book tickets on the website.
If paying your respects to the Holy Shroud has little appeal, you might prefer to tap into Italy’s other religion: calcio (football). Its cathedral is the Juventus Stadium, inaugurated in 2011 as the home ground to the legendary bianconeri, Italy’s most successful football club. The state-of-the-art ground has a Juventus Museum that will blind you with its silverware (28 league titles – and the rest!) and proudly recount how it was all amassed.
On the other side of town, the Stadio Olimpico (which hosted the 2006 Winter Olympics) is home to Turin's other team, Torino FC. Until 2011, Torino shared their ground with Juventus, but now they’ve got the place to themselves except when they play the bianconeri in the hotly fought Derby della Mole.
To get to the Juventus Stadium from the city centre, catch bus 72 from the corner of Via XX Settembre and Via Bertola. To get to the Stadio Olimpico, take tram 4 from Porta Nuova train station and get off after eight stops.
7Shopping
oLaboratorio ZanzaraARTS & CRAFTS
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %011 026 88 53; www.laboratoriozanzara.it; Via Bonelli 3a;
h10am-12.30pm & 2-4pm Mon-Fri, 10am-12.30pm & 3.30-7pm Sat)
A delightfully eccentric collection of handmade objects, light fittings, posters, textiles, cards and calendars fills this bright shop, which is run as a non-profit cooperative, employing people with intellectual disabilities. It's a noble enterprise, yes, but its wares are the model of Torinese cool, with the co-op's director, Gianluca Cannizzo, also one of the city's most celebrated creatives.
Giorgio MaffeiBOOKS
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; www.giorgiomaffei.it; Via San Francesco da Paola 13; hby appointment)
Giorgio Maffei was one of the world's most dedicated collectors of books by 20th-century visual and literary avant-garde artists, including Futurist, Dadaist and Surrealist work but also by conceptual artists from the 1960s onwards. His wife and son lovingly tend the collection and are happy to arrange viewings and sales for those with an interest in 20th-century and conceptual art; by appointment only.
BalonMARKET
(
GOOGLE MAP
; www.balon.it; Via Borgo Dora; h7am-7pm Sat)
This sprawling flea market has brought street merchants to the north of Porta Palazzo for over 150 years. It's both fascinating and overwhelming, but can turn up some splendid vintage finds for the persistent and sharp of eye. The pace settles down come mid-afternoon and there are plenty of artfully dishevelled cafes and bars at which to grab a coffee or spritz.
The Gran Balon, with more specialised antique and vintage dealers, happens on the second Sunday of the month, from 8am.
Eataly Torino LingottoFOOD & DRINKS
(
GOOGLE MAP
; www.eataly.net; Via Nizza 230; h10am-10.30pm)
S
The global Slow Food phenomenon began here in Lingotto. Set in a vast converted factory, the Eataly mothership houses a staggering array of sustainable food and drink, along with beautiful affordable kitchenware and cook books. Specialist counters that correspond to their produce area – bread and pizza, cheese, pasta, seafood, Piedmontese beef – serve lunch from 12.30pm to 2.30pm. Food lovers heaven!
Porta PalazzoMARKET
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; http://scopriportapalazzo.com; Piazza della Repubblica; h7am-1pm Mon-Fri, to 7pm Sat)
Europe's largest food market has hundreds of stalls, including a large open-air market with a separate undercover local and organic produce area, and a large covered fish and meat hall. It's frantic, fabulously multicultural and fun.
La Belle HistoireFASHION & ACCESSORIES
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %011 813 61 99; www.labellehistoire.it; Via Montebello 15;
h10am-1pm & 3.30-7.30pm Tue-Sat, 3.30-7.30pm Mon)
Torinese women have a very particular version of the Italian bella figura and the mostly Italian designers here (with Japan and France also occasionally represented, too) really epitomise the pared-back, if far from casual, style of the city. Upstairs you'll find an equally special range for homewares including pure linen sheets and tableware and a line of Tuscan terracotta pottery.
Magnifica PredaVINTAGE
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %334 7335553; www.magnificapreda.it; Via Sant'Agostino 28;
h3.30-7pm Mon-Thu, to 11pm Fri, 11am-11pm Sat)
This huge vintage shop has both high-end collectable pieces and good quality everyday finds if you're willing to put in the leg work. There's also a cute attached bar for coffee or spritzes.
Via Stampatori PerfumeriaPERFUME
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %339 2581330; Via Stampatori 4)
Elena Boggio, who owns the Via Stampatori B&B upstairs, has a passion for natural perfumes, which she considers have their own life force. She grows many of the botanical elements that go into her range of scents (which can be both worn on the skin or used as room sprays) herself.
Parrot and PalmCLOTHING, PERFUME
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %011 817 78 62; www.parrotandpalm.it; Via Maria Vittoria 28g;
h3.30-7.30pm Mon, 10am-1pm & 3.30-7.30pm Tue-Thu, 10am-7.30pm Fri & Sat)
Two pretty rooms are packed here with beautiful women's clothes, accessories and a select number of perfumes and homewares. There are locally made items as well as an eclectic range of labels sourced from the peripatetic owner's travels.
Sapori di TassinariFOOD & DRINKS
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %011 53 03 47; Via San Tommaso 12;
h9am-7.30pm Tue-Sat)
This neighbourhood pasta shop and rosticceria (delicatessan) has been run with love by Maurizio and Iva for 30 years. Choose from the brimming window of prepared dishes sold by weight that include roast salmon, meatballs, Russian salad and gratine leeks or artichokes: perfect picnic or hotel-room fare.
San Carlo dal 1973FASHION & ACCESSORIES
(San Carlo 1;
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %011 511 41 11; www.sancarlodal1973.com; Piazza San Carlo 201;
h10.30am-7pm Tue-Sat, from 3pm Mon)
This Torinese fashion institution – the city's first 'concept store' – stocks a tightly curated selection of Italian and European high fashion, along with a selection of perfumes and candles. It's Turin at its most edgily elegant.
Guido GobinoCHOCOLATE
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; www.guidogobino.it; Via Lagrange 1; h10am-8pm Tue-Sun, 3-8pm Mon)
Guido Gobino's extreme attention to detail, flair and innovation have made him Turin's favourite modern chocolatier. Have a box of his tiny tile-like ganache chocolates made to order: highly evocative flavours include vermouth, Barolo, and lemon and clove, or grab a bag of his classic gianduiotto (triangular chocolates made from gianduja – Turin's hazelnut paste).
There's also a slim back cafe where you can order hot chocolates and a chocolate tasting plate.
Libreria LuxemburgBOOKS
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Via Battisti 7; h9am-7.30pm Mon-Sat, 10am-1pm & 3-7pm Sun)
This dark, rambling anglophone bookshop is well stocked with literary fiction, light reading, international magazines and a full stash of travel guides, including Lonely Planet. They also carry British newspapers. Just don't expect an Inglese-style chat about the weather.
PepinoCHOCOLATE
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Piazza Carignano 8; h8.30am-8pm Sun-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat)
Chocolate in all its guises is available at Pepino, where ice cream dipped in chocolate on a stick was invented in 1937. Longer opening hours in summer.
8Information
Ospedale Mauriziano Umberto IHOSPITAL
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %011 5 08 01; www.mauriziano.it; Largo Turati 62)
Piazza Castello Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %011 53 51 81; www.turismotorino.org; Piazza Castello;
h9am-6pm)
Central and multilingual.
8Getting There & Away
Air
Turin's Caselle (
GOOGLE MAP
; %011 567 63 61; www.aeroportoditorino.it; Strada Aeroporto 12) airport, 16km northwest of the city centre in Caselle, has connections to European and national destinations. Budget airline Ryanair operates flights to Bari, Palermo, London Stansted, Barcelona, Dublin and Ibiza.
Train
Regular daily trains connect Turin's Stazione Porta Nuova ( GOOGLE MAP ; Piazza Carlo Felice) to the following destinations.
Destination | Fare (€) | Duration (hr) | Frequency |
---|---|---|---|
Milan | 12.45 | 1¾ | 28 |
Aosta | 9.45 | 2 | 21 |
Venice | 70 | 4½ | 17 |
Genoa | 12.40 | 1¾ | 16 |
Rome | 96 | 7 | 11 |
Some international trains also depart from Stazione Porta Susa ( GOOGLE MAP ; Corso Inghilterra) terminal.
Bus
Most international, national and regional buses terminate at the bus station ( GOOGLE MAP ; Corso Castelfidardo), 1km west from Stazione Porta Nuova along Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, including services to Milan's Malpensa airport.
8Getting Around
Public Transport
The city boasts a dense network of buses, trams, a metro system and a cable car, all run by the Gruppo Torinese Trasporti (GTT;
GOOGLE MAP
; www.gtt.to.it/en; Piazza Castello; h10am-6pm). They have an information office (GTT;
GOOGLE MAP
;
%011 562 89 85; www.gtt.to.it; Porta Nuova, via Sacchi;
h7.15am-7pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-7pm Sat, to 6pm Sun) at Stazione Porta Nuova, if you're happy to take a ticket and wait in line for minimal information. Buses and trams run from 6am to midnight and tickets cost €1.50 (90 minutes), €3 (four hours), €5 (one-day pass) or €17.50 for a 15-ticket carnet. Taxis can be ordered online or by phone.
Train
Turin's single-line metro runs from Fermi to Lingotto. It first opened for the Winter Olympics in February 2006 and reached Lingotto in 2011. The line will extend south to Piazza Bengasi, two stations south of Lingotto, at some time late 2017 or in 2018. Ordinary tickets cost €1.50 and allow 90-minute connections with bus and tram networks.
Bicycle
Turin’s ever-expanding bike-sharing scheme, [To]Bike ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.tobike.it; 1-/2-day pass €8/13), is one of the largest in Italy. Pass for use of the bright-yellow biciclette can be bought at the Piazza Castello tourist office. For longer subscriptions, see the website.
%0173
Gourmets get ready to indulge: the rolling hills, valleys and townships of southern Piedmont are northern Italy's most redolent pantry, weighed down with sweet hazelnuts, rare white truffles, arborio rice, delicate veal, precious cheeses and Nebbiolo grapes that metamorphose into the magical Barolo and Barbaresco wines. Out here in the damp Po river basin, the food is earthy but sublime, steeped in traditions as old as the towns that foster them. There's Alba, the region's vibrant, pretty capital; Bra, home of the Slow Food Movement; Pollenzo, host to the University of Gastronomic Sciences and the constellation of charming villages that includes La Morra, Neive, Barolo and Barbaresco.
%0173 / Pop 31,650 / Elevation 172m
A once-powerful city-state – its centre sported more than 100 towers – Alba is considered the capital of the Langhe and has big-city confidence and energy while retaining all the grace and warmth of a small rural town. Alba's considerable gastronomic reputation comes courtesy of its white truffles, dark chocolate and wine. Its annual autumn truffle fair draws huge crowds and the odd truffle-mad celebrity (Jay Z, we're looking at you). The vendemmia (grape harvest) remains refreshingly local and low key, if ecstatic in its own way.
The vine-striped Langhe Hills radiate out from the town like a giant undulating vegetable garden, replete with grapes, hazelnut groves and wineries. Exploring Alba's fertile larder on foot or with two wheels is a delicious pleasure.
1Sights & Activities
Centro Culturale San GiuseppeCULTURAL CENTRE
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %0173 29 61 63; www.centroculturalesangiuseppe.it; Piazza Vernazza 6;
hchurch 2.30-6.30pm Tue-Sun, exhibitions vary)
A converted church turned cultural centre, this is a lovely place to catch a choral or chamber music performance, or undertake a bracing hike up 134 steps to the 36m belltower (€1). In the basement, 2nd-century archaeological remains from the vanquished Roman Empire have been uncovered, and they also host temporary art exhibitions here.
Consorzio Turistico Langhe Monferrato RoeroTOUR
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %0173 36 25 62; www.booking-experience.tartufoevino.it; Piazza Risorgimento 2)
This Alba-based consortium organises a wide variety of tours and courses unique to the Alba region. Truffle hunting can be arranged seasonally for white (September to December) or black (May to September) for €65 per person. Year-round, you can tour a hazelnut farm for €30 or take part in a four-hour cooking course for €130.
zFestivals & Events
Fiera del TartufoFOOD & DRINK
(Truffle Festival; www.fieradeltartufo.org; hOct-Nov)
October's precious white truffle crop is bought, sold and celebrated at this annual festival, held every weekend from mid-October to mid-November. Come and watch princely sums exchanged and sample autumn's bounty. Book accommodation, and restaurants, well ahead.
4Sleeping
Hotel LangheHOTEL€
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %0173 36 69 33; www.hotellanghe.it; Strada Profonda 21; s/d €85/110;
p
a
W)
Two kilometres from the city centre, Hotel Langhe sits on the edge of vineyards that push up against Alba's not entirely unpleasant suburban sprawl. Staff are friendly and the pace relaxed, with a wine conservatory, a bright breakfast area and downstairs rooms with French windows that open onto a sunny forecourt.
Casa BonaB&B, APARTMENT€
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %0173 29 05 35; www.casa-bona.it; Corso Nino Bixio 22; d €95;
p
W)
Disregard the unremarkable building. This collection of several apartments with modern bedrooms and bathrooms is thoughtfully equipped (you get your own stovetop espresso-maker), along with an owner who will drop by with homemade cakes. No credit cards and slightly out of town.
L'Orto delle RoseB&B€€
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %333 2614143; http://ortodellerose.weebly.com; Via Cuneo 5; s/d €100/120;
p
a
W)
High ceilings and beautiful original bones make this one-room family-run B&B a real find. Bonus points come from the fact it puts you in the historic centre but has a small garden and a car space.
Casa DellatorreB&B€€
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %0173 44 12 04; Via Elvio Pertinace 20; s/d €135/160;
a)
Three sisters run this central, upmarket B&B, once their family home, with love. Three classically decorated, antique-filled rooms share a flowery internal courtyard. Breakfast is served in the courtyard in summer, and in the sisters' pretty cafe in winter.
5Eating
Dolcemente AlbaPASTRIES€
(%0173 36 14 26; www.facebook.com/pg/dolcementealba; Piazza Savona 9;
h8am-12.30pm & 3.30-7.30pm)
Pastry chef Luca Montersino's Golosi di Salute brand is known throughout northern Italy for its biscuits, cakes, tarts and spreads that variously avoid gluten, dairy or sugar; these days his produce is available as far afield as New York. He is an Alba local (with a killer gluten-free torta di nocciole – hazelnut cake – to prove it) and this, his flagship, carries a large range.
Osteria dei SognatoriOSTERIA€
(
GOOGLE MAP
; Via Macrino 8b; meals €18-28; hnoon-2pm & 7-11pm Thu-Tue)
Menu? What menu? You get whatever's in the pot at this dimly lit place. Munch on the theatrically large breadsticks while you wait for an array of antipasti to arrive, then try to keep up as the dishes mount up. Walls are bedecked with football memorabilia and B&W snaps of bearded wartime partisans look over rowdy tables of locals. Bookings advised.
oLa PiolaPIEDMONTESE€€
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %0173 44 28 00; www.lapiola-alba.it; Piazza Risorgimento 4; meals €25-45;
hnoon-2.30pm & 7-10pm Mon-Sat, closed Mon in summer)
Part of the Ceretto family's small empire, La Piola offers a faithful menu of traditional Piedmontese dishes but at the same time manages to be stylish, modern and relaxed (let's put it down to sprezzatura – the Italian art of studied nonchalance), with a kitchen overseen by one of Italy's most respected chefs, Enrico Crippa, from gastronomic Piazza Duomo upstairs.
Expect wonderful produce – the vegetables and herbs all come from the Cerettos' own garden – and technique, along with a sense-grabbing flair. Engaged young staff and great contemporary artwork (including specially commissioned 'show' plates) make the experience a special one. Don't miss their version of vitello tonnato (sliced cold veal and tuna sauce) and bonet (chocolate pudding): both the apotheosis of their respective genres. Check the website for details of their monthly dinners that celebrate Piedmontese classics often too difficult to do for single diners.
Osteria della Rosa RossaOSTERIA€€
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %0172 48 81 33; Via San Pietro 31, Cherasco; set menus €30-35;
hnoon-2pm & 7-11pm Wed-Mon)
This lovely rustic dining room in Cherasco, with shady terrace for summer days, specialises in dishes made with the town's signature produce, snails. Advance reservations are required.
Piazza DuomoGASTRONOMY€€€
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %0173 44 28 00; www.piazzaduomoalba.it; Piazza Risorgimento 4; meals €150, degustation €200/240;
h12.30-2pm & 7.30-10pm Tue-Sat)
Enrico Crippa's Michelin-starred restaurant is now in its second decade and considered one of Italy's best. Dreamlike frescoes by Francesco Clemente fill the fleshy pink dining room, which is otherwise a bastion of elegant restraint. On the plate, expect the high concept play beloved of Italian fine-dining chefs, along with spectacular super-local, and some homegrown, produce (this is white truffle country).
Four elegant rooms (from €240 a night) are available for restaurant guests who just want to fall in a heap after a long night of degustation dining.
Restaurant LarossaGASTRONOMY€€€
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %0173 06 06 39; www.ristorantelarossa.it; Via Alberione 10; meals €70, set menus €60-110;
h7-10pm Wed, noon-3pm & 7-10pm Thu-Mon)
Young chef Andrea Larossa has been wowing them from this unusual basement space for a few years now. This is Italian gastronomy with all its flourishes but with a nice, earthy Piedmontese touch. If you're keen to try his cooking on a budget, he caters the summertime aperitivo at the Contratto winery in nearby Canelli – check the website for details.
6Drinking & Nightlife
I LOVE BAWINE BAR
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %327 3276081; Via Alberione 1;
h8am-9pm)
BA here stands for Barbaresco and this bright and welcoming little enoteca is a relaxed aperitivo favourite, with a good range of local wines and knowledgeable staff. Located on the historic centre's perimeter road, it's also convenient for grabbing supplies for a picnic or last-minute gourmet gifts on the way out of town.
Bistrot dei SognatoriBAR
(
GOOGLE MAP
; Piazza San Giovanni 5; h8am-1am Tue-Sun, from 2pm Mon)
This nondescript corner bar packs in the ragazzi (guys) every night: perfect if you're done with fine dining and upmarket enoteca. Wine choices are still excellent, as are the spritzes, cocktails and late night soundtrack.
Pensavo PeggioBREWERY, BAR
(
GOOGLE MAP
; Corso Langhe 59; h8am-10.30pm Tue-Sat)
A 15-minute walk from the old town, this 'microbirrificio e ristoro', brewery and restaurant, is also one of the city's liveliest places to drink. Join Alba's younger set here for excellent microbrews and interesting wines, including Nascetta, a local white. The kitchen dishes up hearty belly liners – tortellini or roast beef – and offers a lunchtime 'worker's menu' for €10.
VincaféWINE BAR
(
GOOGLE MAP
; www.vincafe.com; Via Vittorio Emanuele II 12; h7am-midnight)
Squeeze through the door and sift through a list of over 350 varieties or, if in doubt, have a Barolo. Downstairs, in a cool vaulted stone cellar, the Veg Cafe restaurant serves up huge healthy salads and pasta.
8Information
Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %0173 3 58 33; www.langheroero.it; Piazza Risorgimento 2;
h9am-6pm Mon-Fri, from 9.30am Sat & Sun)
In the town's historic centre, this office sells walking maps and can advise on a huge range of food and wine tours.
8Getting There & Away
From the bus station ( GOOGLE MAP ; Corso Matteotti 10) there are frequent buses to/from Turin (two hours, €4.95, up to 10 daily) and infrequent buses to/from Barolo (25 minutes, €3.10, two daily) and other surrounding villages.
From Alba's train station ( GOOGLE MAP ; Piazza Trento e Trieste) regular trains run to/from Turin via Bra/Asti (1¼ hours, €5.75, hourly).
The irregularity of buses to the surrounding villages makes touring the Langhe better by car or bike. For bike hire (from €20 a day) book through the tourist office. Car hire goes from about €35 per day or the tourist office can hook you up with a driver (prices vary).
%0173 / Pop 700
The tiny, 1800-hectare parcel of undulating land immediately around this hilltop village knocks out what is arguably the finest vino in Italy and currently the next big thing with anglophone collectors. No flash in the pan, Barolo has been a viticultural hub for at least four centuries and is far too deeply rooted in the soil and the seasons to have wine-snob attitude. The ancient streets are delightful enough themselves to warrant a stroll even if wine is not your thing, but being able to taste its precious, aromatic wines in a relaxed and welcoming tasting room makes visiting a sublime experience indeed.
1Sights & Activities
Museo del Vino a BaroloMUSEUM
(
GOOGLE MAP
; www.wimubarolo.it; Castello Comunale Falletti di Barolo; adult/reduced €8/6; h10.30am-7pm, closed Jan & Feb)
A capricious jaunt through the history of viticulture via light, film and installations, care of the imagination of Swiss designer François Confino (who also designed Turin’s cinema museum). It's set over three floors of the village's stunning medieval castle and best braved after a tasting session, when it all will seem to make sense.
Marchesi di BaroloWINE
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %0173 56 44 91; www.marchesibarolo.com; Via Roma 1;
h10.30am-6pm)
A venerable winery that was first established by the fascinating Juliette Colbert de Maulévrier, a French noblewoman and social reformer, in the early years of the 19th century. You can pop in to buy a bottle, but better to book for a tour and guided tasting (if you're lucky, you'll be taken around the sprawling, historic cellars by 6th-generation Barolo-makers Valentina or Davide Abbona).
2Activities
Gianni GagliardoWINE
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %0173 5 08 29; www.gagliardo.it; Via Roma 35;
h11am-7pm)
Gianni Gagliardo is known as the 'father of Favorita', the man responsible for bringing that native white grape back from obscurity in the 1970s. Favorita forays aside, this shop and tasting room is yet another temple to the Nebbiolo grape. There's some extreme vintages represented, along with 'collectors' prices to match.
You can also buy Nebbiolo and Favorita seedlings (€10) here to DIY at home.
Enoteca Regionale del BaroloWINE
(
GOOGLE MAP
; www.enotecadelbarolo.it; Piazza Falletti; h10am-12.30pm & 3-6.30pm Fri-Wed)
A huge and well-organised, if rather formal, tasting room and shop. A great starting point before striking out to the various cellars and vineyards.
4Sleeping
Casa SvizzeraAGRITURISMO€
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %0173 56 64 08; www.casasvizzera.com; Via Roma 65; d €100-130;
p
W)
Five minutes from the Germano family's vines, these three pretty, balconied rooms sit above their central enoteca and former bottling plant. It's quiet and ridiculously atmospheric, but also puts you in toddling distance of all the village's tasting rooms and restaurants. Kind staff will happily make local recommendations and reservations for you.
Hotel BaroloHOTEL€
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %0173 5 63 54; www.hotelbarolo.it; Via Lomondo 2; s €80-90, d €100-150;
p
i
s)
Overlooked by the famous enoteca-castle, Hotel Barolo is an old-school place; sit back on the terrace with a glass of you-know-what, contemplating the 18th-century Piedmontese architecture that guards its shimmering swimming pool. Follow up with a meal at the in-house Brezza restaurant (it's been serving up truffles and the like for three generations, and making wine since 1885).
5Eating & Drinking
La CantinettaPIEDMONTESE€
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %0173 5 61 98; Via Roma 33; meals €22-35;
h12.30-3pm & 7-10pm Fri-Wed)
A sunny outside terrace is the big draw here, although you'll be far from unhappy with the menu of local dishes: Ligurian rolled rabbit, risotto with radicchio, veal tongue with salsa verde. Don't miss the antipasto dish of egg in pasta (€7), one of those better-than-the-sum of its parts culinary experiences.
Barolo FriendsPIEDMONTESE€
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %0173 56 05 42; www.barolofriends.it; Piazza Castello 3; meals €20-30;
h11am-11pm Thu-Tue)
An easy, contemporary place that does Piedmontese staples but, helpfully, doesn't keep to rigid service hours or menu formats. Need a quick vitello tonnato (cold sliced veal with tuna sauce) or soup? Fancy a late afternoon glass of something special as the sun dips over the vines? Here's your place.
oLa Vite TurcheseWINE BAR
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %366 4556744; www.laviteturchese.com; Via Alba 5;
h11am-9pm Thu-Sat, 2pm-7pm Mon, 2pm-9pm Wed)
This friendly enoteca is run by passionate young staff who will talk you through their good stock of local wines – from a cheap and cheerful Nebbiolo or Arneis to a '74 Barolo at €59 a glass – and they also branch out to some other Italian regions. Daily cheese and salumi (cured meats/charcuterie) choices are sourced with love and it's a local favourite for aperitivo.
%0173 / Pop 650
Delightful Barbaresco is surrounded by vineyards and characterised by its 30m-high, 11th-century tower, visible from miles around. There are more than 40 wineries and two enotecas (wine shop/bars) in the area. Only a few kilometres separate Barolo from Barbaresco; a rainier microclimate, nutrient-rich soil and fewer ageing requirements have made the latter's wine into a softer, more ethereal red that plays 'queen' to Barolo's 'king'. The village itself is similarly a little softer, less in your face than Barolo. The hilltop hamlet of Treiso, 15 minutes' drive away, also produces Barbaresco.
2Activities
oLe Rocche dei BarbariWINE
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %0173 63 51 38; Via Torino 62;
h10am-6pm)
This historic winery has a moody tasting room and cellar, with wines that are not retailed elsewhere. Generous complimentary tastings are conducted by the owner, cheese and hazelnuts are offered on pewter platters and the stories of each vintage are enchanting. A quiet Langhe highlight.
Enoteca Regionale del BarbarescoWINE
(
GOOGLE MAP
; www.enotecadelbarbaresco.it; Piazza del Municipio 7; tower (with wine tasting) €5/4; h10am-7pm)
Fittingly for a wine that conjures such reverence, this intimate enoteca is housed inside a deconsecrated church, with wines lined up where the altar once stood. It costs €2 per tasting glass; six Barbaresco wines are available to try each day, or climb the ancient tower and taste with a view.
Sentiero dei BarbarescoHIKING
Various trails surround the village, including this 13km loop through the undulating vineyards. The Enoteca Regionale has maps.
4Sleeping
Casa BoffaPENSION€
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %0173 63 51 74; www.boffacarlo.it; Via Torino 9a; s €70, d €85-125;
W)
In a lovely house in the centre of the village, Boffa offers four modern rooms and one suite above a stunning terrace with limitless Langhe valley views. Boffa's cellars are open for tasting daily except Wednesday.
5Eating
Ristorante RabayàITALIAN€€
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %0173 63 52 23; Via Rabayà 9; set menus €30-45;
hnoon-2pm & 7-10pm Tue-Sat, noon-2pm Sun)
Rabayà, on the fringe of the village, has the ambience of dining at a private home. The signature rabbit in Barbaresco works better in its antique-furnished dining room in front of a roaring fire, but its terrace set high above the vineyards is perfect for a summer evening, even if it's just for a plate of cheese. A snail menu also makes the occasional appearance.
AntinèPIEDMONTESE€€€
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %0173 63 52 94; www.antine.it; Via Torino 34; meals €45-55;
h12.30am-2.30pm & 7.30-10pm Thu-Tue)
Sigh-worthy meals are to be had at this justifiably well-regarded restaurant, upstairs in what used to be the village prison. They do the Piedmontese favourites but also push the envelope a tad with dishes such as gnocchi with tripe and cima di rapa (bitter greens) and pigeon or sweetbreads for mains. Book ahead.
%0172 / Pop 29,850
Bra seems like a small, unassuming Piedmontese town, but as the place where the Slow Food movement first took root in 1986, it's also something of a gastronomic pilgrimage site. There are defiantly no supermarkets in the historic centre, where small, family-run shops are replete with organic sausages, handcrafted chocolates and fresh local farm produce. Naturally, shops shut religiously for a 'slowdown' twice a week. Just down the hill sits Pollenzo, a slightly less picturesque but still pretty town, with the Slow Food movement's very own University of Gastronomic Sciences at its heart.
2Activities
Banca del VinoWINE
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %0172 45 80 45; www.bancadelvino.it; Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II 13, Pollenzo; tour & tastings €3-20;
h10.30am-1pm & 3.30-7.30pm Tue-Sat, 10.30am-1pm Sun)
Slow Food's Università di Scienze Gastronomiche oversees this extensive wine cellar–'library' of Italian wines. Free guided tastings are available by reservation.
Università di Scienze GastronomicheWINE
(University of Gastronomic Sciences;
GOOGLE MAP
; www.unisg.it; Piazza Vittorio Emanuele 9, Pollenzo)S
Another creation of Carlo Petrini, founder of the Slow Food movement, this university, established in the village of Pollenzo (4km southeast of Bra) in 2004, occupies a former royal palace and offers three-year courses in gastronomy and food management. Its Banca del Vino, a wine cellar/'library' of Italian wines, conducts free guided tastings by appointment, but it's a nice place to just wander, too.
4Sleeping & Eating
oAlbergo Cantine AscheriDESIGN HOTEL€€
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %0172 43 03 12; www.ascherihotel.it; Via Piumati 25, Bra; s/d €115/125;
p
a
i)
Built around the Ascheri family's 1880-established winery, incorporating wood, steel mesh and glass, this ultra-contemporary hotel includes a mezzanine library, 27 sun-drenched rooms and a vine-lined terrace overlooking the rooftops. From the lobby you can see straight down to the vats in the cellar (guests get a free tour). It's just one block south of Bra's train station.
Albergo Dell'AgenziaHOTEL€€
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %0172 45 86 00; www.albergoagenzia.it; Via Fossano 21, Pollenzo; s/d €115/190;
p
a
W
s)
Part of the same sprawling complex that houses Pollenzo's Università di Scienze Gastronomiche, the rooms are spacious and elegantly furnished, with huge beds, walk-in wardrobes, marble bathrooms and the occasional roof terrace that looks over village rooftops. With a restaurant run by people who really know their business, a well-stocked wine cellar and a park, its ever-so-slight corporate edge soon melts away.
Osteria del BoccondivinoOSTERIA€€
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %0172 42 56 74; www.boccondivinoslow.it; Via Mendicità Istruita 14, Bra; meals €25-32, set menus €19-21;
hnoon-2.30pm & 7-10pm Tue-Sat)
S
On the 1st floor of the Slow Food movement's utterly typical courtyard headquarters, this bottle-lined dining room was the first to be opened by the emerging organisation back in the 1980s. Service can be rather humourless, but the menu, which changes daily, is, as you'd expect, a picture of precise providence and seasonality, with dishes that are beautifully prepared.
Guido RistoranteGASTRONOMY€€€
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %0173 62 61 62; www.guidoristorante.it; Via Alba 15, Serralunga d'Alba; tasting menus €80-110;
h7.30-10.30pm Tue-Sat, 12.30-2.30pm Sat & Sun, closed Jan & Aug)
The acclaimed fairy-tale-like space that is the Guido Ristorante is a place that people have been known to cross borders to visit, especially for the veal with truffled cream.
8Information
Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %0172 43 01 85; www.langheroero.it; Piazza Caduti della Liberta 20, Bra;
h8.30am-12.30pm & 3-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon Sat & Sun)
Has information on both towns and the region.
%0173 / Pop 2650
Atop a hill surrounded by vines with the Alps as a backdrop, La Morra is bigger and quieter than Barolo, though no less beguiling. The village's cantina comunale (communal wine seller) provides lists of places to do tastings.
1Sights
oCappella del BaroloPUBLIC ART
( GOOGLE MAP ; www.ceretto.com/en/experience/art-design/the-chapel-of-barolo; Borgata Cerequio)
Alba's winemaking-restaurateuring Ceretti family has commissioned a number of site-specific artworks in the regions and this never-consecrated chapel is one of the most wonderful. Its Sol Lewitt exterior and David Tremlett interiors were added in 1999. Lewitt's playful intervention is visible from across the vines, but don't miss Tremlett's work inside, which is both serene and enlivening. It's always open, just push the door.
4Sleeping
oBrandiniAGRITURISMO€€
(
GOOGLE MAP
; www.agriturismolamorra.com; Borgo Brandini 16; s €95, d €135-200; p
a
W
s)
S
A five-minute drive below La Morra, this vineyard restaurant and cellar has five cosy, modern rooms. Each is named for a writer and graced with appropriate quotes and reading material, along with equally inspiring views of the Alps. All fittings, from paint to wood to bedding, are made from sustainable, non-toxic materials in line with their organic agricultural practices.
Cooking classes that explore the specialities of the Langhe can be organised for groups or individuals in English or Italian.
Uve Rooms & Wine BarBOUTIQUE HOTEL€€
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %333 7137892; www.uve.info; Via Umberto I 13; s/d €180/200;
a
W)
A stylish newcomer to La Morra, eight rooms and a couple of suites are Italian flash rather than rustic. Set around an original courtyard of a former monastery, there's rest and contemplation on offer here, or you can worship the grape downstairs at the purple-themed enoteca. Guest bikes or bespoke tours will get you out into the countryside.
Arborina RelaisBOUTIQUE HOTEL€€€
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %0173 50 03 51; www.arborinarelais.it; Frazione Annunciata 27; d €220-300;
p
a
W
s)
A gorgeous, contemporary design is a departure from the usual stately traditional upmarket hotels of this region. The look throughout is dark glamour, with extensive use of grey and dark wood. Beds are large and luxuriously made-up, there's a variety of terraces and vineyard-side gardens to loll about in and both an on-site restaurant and a wine/produce shop at reception.
Note that the smaller 'suites' are more standard-room-size but with benefits, ie coffee machines, mini-kitchens and terraces.
5Eating
oMore e MacinePIEDMONTESE€
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %0173 50 03 95; Via XX Settembre 18; meals €25;
hnoon-3pm & 6-11pm)
A rambunctious, casual and seemingly chaotic place that turns out some of the town's best food. This is the Piedmontese kitchen at its most essential: come for a mountainous swirl of the signature fine tajarin pasta with ragú, risotto with whatever vegetable's in season, spicy sauced tongue or sliced octopus. But the star of the menu here is the Barolo by-the-glass list.
You can sample widely and well across producers and vintages from €12 to €30, but if that's not your thing there's a less lofty blackboard with local and pan-Italian whites and 'starter' Barolo, as well as other local reds from €3.50 to €8.
FontanazzaPIEDMONTESE€
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %0173 5 07 18; www.locandafontanazza.it; Strada Fontanazza 4; meals €25;
hnoon-2.30pm & 7.30-10pm Tue, Wed, Fri-Sun, dinner only Mon;
v)
You can take the sun on the terrace in summer or warm up by the open fire on chilly days and enjoy simple, traditional dishes like tajarin al ragù di arrosto di vitello (pasta with veal stew) along with a number of vegetable-focused options and whimsical desserts. All pasta, bread and grissini are homemade.
BrandiniPIEDMONTESE€€
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %0173 5 02 66; www.agriturismolamorra.com; Borgo Brandini 16; meals €28-38;
h12.30-2.30pm & 7-10pm Wed-Sun, daily for B&B guests)
There's a stunning view across vineyards to a wall of snow-capped mountains from the rustic farmhouse tables that grace the light open space at Brandini, while the food is similarly a coming together of tradition and fresh ideas using local produce and organic vegetables from Brandini's own gardens. Ask about the cooking classes if you're keen to reproduce the Piedmontese kitchen at home.
Osteria AborinaGASTRONOMY€€€
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %0173 500 340; www.osteriarborina.it; Fratzione Annunziata 27; meals €48-55, degustation 5-/6-courses €55/65;
hdining room 7-10pm Tue-Sat, bar & grill noon-10pm Wed-Mon)
Part of the Arborina Relais hotel, this very smart dining room offers gastronomic menus that either rework Piedmontese standards in surprising ways or go for complete culinary poetry and use the global influences that the widely-travelled chef has gathered. The sommelier is one of the region's most revered and overall service is extremely attentive and personal.
In summer, head to the rooftop terrace if you'd prefer a casual grill or plate of crudo (they do both raw fish and beef).
%0173 / Pop 3050
Ping-ponged between Alba and Asti during the Middle Ages, Neive is a quieter proposition these days, its hilltop medieval layout earning it a rating as one of Italy's borghi più belli (most beautiful towns). Come here to taste the village's four legendary wines – Dolcetto d'Alba, Barbaresco, Moscato and Barbera d'Alba – among sun-dappled squares and purple wisteria.
4Sleeping
Al Palazzo RossoB&B€
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %333 1179127; http://al-palazzo-rosso.it; Piazza Italia 6; d/ste €110/140;
a
W)
Looking out to Piazza Italia, this cute, rather modern place has four stylish rooms. Some are decked out in grey, white and black tones, while others come with wood and earthy-toned accents. The suite has huge windows, some have fireplaces and all have wooden floorboards.
Borgo VecchioAPARTMENT€€
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %377 4911705; www.borgovecchioneive.it; Via Borgese 10; ste €170-250;
a
W)
These large, luxuriously furnished and very pretty apartment-style suites can sleep two to four and have espresso machines, terraces and, in the largest, a Jacuzzi. No breakfast. There are amazing views and a garden, too.
5Eating & Drinking
Osteria del Borgo VecchioVEGETARIAN, PIEDMONTESE€
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %377 4911705; www.borgovecchioneive.it; Via Borgese 10; meals €20-25, set menus €20-33;
v)
A sweet surprise in meat-centric Piedmont, Osteria del Borgo Vecchio does parallel vegetarian and meat menus, with all organic ingredients and all pasta made in-house. Despite these 21st-century conceits, you could still be in your Piedmontese nonna's dining room with delightful tiled floors, farmhouse chairs and a deep red, green and brown palette.
Rather ironically, the steak here is sensational, but so too are the meat-less meatballs.
Donna SelvaticaPIEDMONTESE€€
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %335 8008282; www.borgovecchioneive.it; Via Rocca 13; meals €38-50, set menu €45;
h12-3pm & 7-10pm)
On the Barbaresco hills overlooking the village, the name Donna Selvatica honours the local grappa producer Romano Levi for whom the 'wild woman' was a symbol. This is an upmarket but still pleasantly rustic dining room with a rooftop terrace to enjoy the view in summer. Dishes are carefully prepared using top-quality ingredients like Fassone beef, snails and truffles.
Al Nido Della CinciallegraWINE BAR
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %0173 67367; www.alnidodellacinciallegra.com; Piazza Cocito 8;
h8am-10pm)
Join Neive's winemakers and restaurateurs here for a wine and a generous aperitivo plate; if the weather's warm, you'll all boisterously spill out onto the pretty square. This is the Langhe at its unpretentious best: on one side of the shop buy a brilliant Barolo, on the other, batteries or a ballpoint pen (it's both enoteca and village corner shop).
8Information
Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION
(
GOOGLE MAP
; www.langheroero.it; Via Borgese 1; h8am-1pm, 2-6pm Mon & Thu, 8am-2pm Tue, Wed & Fri, 8am-1pm Sat)
%0141 / Pop 75,800 / Elev 123m
Just 30km apart, Asti and Alba were fierce rivals in medieval times, when they faced off against each other as feisty, independent strongholds ruled over by feuding royal families. These days the two towns maintain a friendly rivalry – stately but workaday Asti sniffs at Alba's burgeoning glamour – but are united by viticulture. Asti produces the sparkling white Asti Spumante wine made from white muscat grapes. It's also the best way to access the Monferrato region, a land of literary giants (contemporary academic and novelist Umberto Eco and 18th-century dramatist Vittorio Alfieri hail from here) and yet another classic wine (the intense Barbera del Monferrato). Vineyards fan out in all directions interspersed with castles and celebrated restaurants.
1Sights & Activities
Torre Troyana o Dell'OrologioLANDMARK
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %0141 39 94 89; www.comune.asti.it; Piazza Medici; adult/reduced €3/1.60;
h10am-1pm & 4-7pm Sat & Sun Apr-Sep)
F
During the late 13th century the region became one of Italy's wealthiest, with 150-odd towers springing up in Asti alone. Of the 12 that remain, only this one can be climbed. Troyana is a 38m-tall tower that dates from the 12th century. The clock was added in 1420.
Enoteca Boero di Boero MarioWINE
(
GOOGLE MAP
; Piazza Astesano 17; h9am-noon & 3-8pm Tue-Fri, 3-8pm Sat-Mon)
Roll up your sleeves and get down to Asti's most pleasurable activity – wine tasting. This small, unassuming enoteca lines up the glasses morning and afternoon. It's all good, but you're here for the Barbera d'Asti and the sparkling Moscato.
zFestivals & Events
Palio d'AstiSPORTS
(www.astiturismo.it/en/content/palio-asti; hlate Sep)
Held on the third Sunday of September, this bareback horse race commemorates a victorious battle against Alba during the Middle Ages and draws over a quarter of a million spectators from surrounding villages. Cheeky Alba answers with a donkey race on the first Sunday in October.
4Sleeping
oVilla PattonoBOUTIQUE HOTEL€€
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %0141 96 20 21; www.villapattono.com; Strada Drotte, Costiglione d'Asti; d €144-180;
hlate-Mar–Dec;
p
a
W
s)
Around a 15-minute drive south of the city, surrounded by vineyards and rolling hills, Villa Pattono is a painstakingly restored 18th-century country mansion with frescoed ceilings, dark wood floors and marble bathrooms. There are just nine plush rooms located in the main house, a couple more in the annexed farm buildings and a magnificent three-floor suite in a neo-medieval tower.
Hotel PalioHOTEL€€
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %0141 3 43 71; www.hotelpalio.com; Via Cavour 106; s/d €110/160;
p
a
i
W)
Wedged between the train station and the old town, the Palio's utilitarian exterior belies comfortable facilities inside and its rather charming rooms. The owners also run the Ristorante Falcon Vecchia, one of Asti's oldest, which opened in 1607.
A great find in not-always-budget-friendly Piedmont, Cascina Rosa (
GOOGLE MAP
; %0141 92 52 35; www.cascinarosa33.it; Viale Pininfarina 33; s/d €50/80;
p
a
W
s) farmhouse B&B stands on a hilltop and enjoys a 360-degree panorama of the lush Monferrato countryside. Switched-on owners really want you to unwind and enjoy the region and besides providing simple, stylish and suitably rustic rooms, offer up a host of ideas for rides, walks and other leisurely pursuits.
5Eating
CasaMàrSEAFOOD€€
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %0141 35 11 00; http://casamar.it; Vicolo GB Giuliani 3; meals €28-35;
h12.30-2pm & 7.30-11.30pm Tue-Fri, lunch only Sat & Sun)
A fabulous surprise: a bright, modern seafood place in the heart of tradition-bound, landlocked Piedmont. Some of the international-leaning dishes can be a little ambitious but locals, who obviously need the occasional break from the earthy Langhe flavours, come for the tasty seafood pastas and citrus-spritzed fish tartares. There's also a concise but nice vegetarian menu.
Pompa MagnaPIEDMONTESE€€
(
GOOGLE MAP
; Via Aliberti 65; set menu €20-30; h10am-2pm & 6-10pm Tue-Sat, 10am-3pm Sun)
This split-level brasserie is a great spot for a bruschetta and glass of very good wine (it also owns an enoteca at Corso Alfieri 332; closed Mondays). But the chef-prepared menus and bonet (chocolate pudding) are also worthwhile.
8Information
Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION
(
GOOGLE MAP
; www.astiturismo.it; Piazza Alfieri 29; h9am-1pm & 2-6pm Mon-Sat, to 5.30pm Sun)
Has details of September's flurry of wine festivals.
8Getting There & Away
Asti is on the Turin–Genoa railway line and is served by hourly trains in both directions. Journey time is 30 to 55 minutes to/from Turin (€5.25), and 1¾ hours to/from Genoa (€9.45).