Borromean Islands

Forming Lake Maggiore’s most beautiful corner, the Borromean Islands (Isole Borromee) can be reached from various points around the lake, but Stresa and Verbania offer the best access. Three of the four islands – Bella, Madre and Superiore (aka Isola dei Pescatori) – can all be visited, but tiny San Giovanni is off limits.

Isola Bella

The grandest and busiest of the islands – the crowds can get a little overwhelming on weekends – Isola Bella is the centrepiece of the Borromeo Lake Maggiore empire. The island took the name of Carlo III’s wife, the bella Isabella, in the 17th century, when its centrepiece, Palazzo Borromeo, was built for the Borromeo family.

1Sights

Palazzo BorromeoPALACE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0323 3 05 56; www.isoleborromee.it; Isola Bella; adult/child €16/8.50, incl Palazzo Madre €21/10; h9am-5.30pm mid-Mar–mid-Oct)

Presiding over 10 tiers of spectacular terraced gardens roamed by peacocks, this baroque palace is arguably Lake Maggiore's finest building. Wandering the grounds and 1st floors reveals guestrooms, studies and reception halls. Particularly striking rooms include the Sala di Napoleone, where the emperor Napoleon stayed with his wife in 1797; the grand Sala da Ballo (Ballroom); the ornate Sala del Trono (Throne Room); and the Sala delle Regine (Queen's Room). Paintings from the 130-strong Borromeo collection hang all around.

5Eating

ElveziaITALIAN€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0323 3 00 43; Via de Martini 35; meals €32-42; h9am-6pm Tue-Sun Mar-Oct, Fri-Sun only Nov-Feb)

With its rambling rooms, fish-themed portico and upstairs pergola and balcony dining area, this is the best spot on Isola Bella for home cooking. Dishes include ricotta-stuffed ravioli, various risottos and lake fish such as coregone alle mandorle (lake whitefish in almonds).

Elvezia also opens on Saturday nights (from 7pm) during the summer. Reservations essential.

Isola Superiore (Isola dei Pescatori)

Tiny ‘Fishermen’s Island,’ with a permanent population of around 50, retains much of its original fishing-village atmosphere. Apart from an 11th-century apse and a 16th-century fresco in the charming Chiesa di San Vittore, there are no real sights. Many visitors make it their port of call for lunch, but stay overnight and you'll fall in love with the place.

4Sleeping & Eating

oAlbergo VerbanoHOTEL€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0323 3 04 08; www.hotelverbano.it; Via Ugo Ara 2; d €140-210; hMar-Dec; W)

Set at the southern tip of enchanting Isola Superiore, Albergo Verbano has been putting up guests in this idyllic spot since 1895. Dishes from a fish-focused menu are served on the tree-shaded waterside terrace, and bedrooms are a study in sunny elegance – choose one looking out towards Isola Bella or Isola Madre; the views are exquisite either way.

Albergo Ristorante BelvedereHOTEL€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0323 3 22 92; www.belvedere-isolapescatori.it; Isola Superiore; d €120-190; hApr-Oct)

Perfectly located towards the quieter northern end of Isola Superiore, this cheerful little hotel-restaurant has eight simply styled bedrooms, most with a balcony or terrace giving superb views of the lake, Isola Madre and the mountains beyond.

oCasabellaRISTORANTE€€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0323 3 34 71; www.isola-pescatori.it; Via del Marinaio 1; meals €30-50, five-course tasting menu €55; hnoon-2pm & 6-8.30pm Feb-Nov)

The setting is bewitching – right by the shore – and the food is acclaimed. The admirably short menu might feature home-smoked beef with spinach, blanched squid with ricotta or perfectly cooked lake fish. Leave room for dessert; the pear cake with chocolate fondant is faultless.

Verbania

Pop 30,800

Verbania, the biggest town on Lake Maggiore, makes a good base for exploring the west bank. The town is strung out along the lakeshore and consists of three districts. Verbania Pallanza, the middle chunk, is the most interesting of the three, with a pretty waterfront and a ferry stop.

1Sights

Villa TarantoGARDENS

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0323 55 66 67; www.villataranto.it; Via Vittorio Veneto 111, Verbania Pallanza; adult/reduced €10/5.50; h8.30am-6.30pm Apr-Sep, 9am-4pm Oct; p)

The grounds of this late-19th-century villa are one of Lake Maggiore's highlights. A Scottish captain, Neil McEacharn, bought the Normandy-style villa from the Savoy family in 1931 after spotting an ad in the Times. He planted some 20,000 plant species over 30 years, and today it's considered one of Europe’s finest botanic gardens. Even the main entrance path is a grand affair, bordered by lawns and a cornucopia of colourful flowers. It's a short walk from the Villa Taranto ferry stop.

4Sleeping

AquadolceHOTEL€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0323 50 54 18; www.hotelacquadolce.eu; Via Cietti 1, Verbania Pallanza; d €85-105, tr €120; aW)

Ask for a room at the front of this bijou waterfront address and your window will be filled with a glittering lake backed by the mountains rearing up behind. Inside it's a beautifully lit, genteel affair, with all the quiet assurance of a well-run hotel.

Hotel BelvedereHOTEL€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0323 50 32 02; www.pallanzahotels.com; Viale Magnolie 6, Verbania Pallanza; d €120-180; aW)

Set in a gracious 19th-century building right across from the Verbania Pallanza boat landing, the waterfront Belvedere is a fine Lago Maggiore base. The service is at once friendly and professional, while the refined rooms are well sized – it's worth paying extra for a lake view.

5Eating

oOsteria CastelloOSTERIA€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0323 51 65 79; www.osteriacastello.com; Piazza Castello 9, Verbania Intra; meals €25-35; h11am-2.30pm & 6pm-midnight Mon-Sat)

Its 100-plus years of history run like a rich seam through this enchanting osteria, where archive photos and bottles line the walls. Order a glass of wine from the vast selection; sample some ham; or tuck into the pasta or lake fish of the day.

Osteria dell'AngoloPIEDMONTESE€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0323 55 63 62; Piazza Garibaldi 35, Verbania Pallanza; meals €32-42; hnoon-2.30pm & 7-9.30pm Tue-Sun)

Greenery drapes a terrace dotted with only eight tables at this osteria, and well-presented dishes showcase creative Piedmontese cuisine. The lake fish is particularly fine (try the trout carpaccio), while the well-chosen wine list means it could turn into a very long lunch indeed.

oRistorante MilanoMODERN ITALIAN€€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0323 55 68 16; www.ristorantemilanolagomaggiore.it; Corso Zanitello 2, Verbania Pallanza; meals €68-80, menus €55-75; hnoon-2pm & 7-9pm Wed-Mon; a)

The setting really is hard to beat: Milano directly overlooks Pallanza's minuscule horseshoe-shaped harbour (200m south of the ferry jetty), with a scattering of tables sitting on lakeside lawns amid the trees. It's an idyllic spot to enjoy lake fish, local lamb and some innovative Italian cuisine, such as pigeon with paté and red-currant reduction.

8Information

Verbania Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0323 50 32 49; www.verbania-turismo.it; Via Ruga 44, Verbania Pallanza; h9.30am-12.30pm & 3-5pm Mon-Sat)

The tourist office is located in the same complex as the Museo del Paesaggio ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0323 55 66 21; www.museodelpaesaggio.it; Via Ruga 44, Verbania Pallanza; €5; h10am-6pm Tue-Fri, to 7pm Sat, Sun & holidays).

Cannobio

Pop 5200

Just 5km south of the Swiss border, Cannobio’s toy-town cobblestone streets are delightfully quaint. Nicely set apart from the busier towns to the north and south, it's a dreamy place that makes for a charming lake base. There's a public beach at the north end of town, which is also the departure point for a scenic walk along the Cannobino River.

2Activities

Tomaso Surf & SailWATER SPORTS

( GOOGLE MAP ; %333 7000291; www.tomaso.com; Via Nazionale 7; h9.30am-7pm Jun-Sep, 11am-6pm Oct-May)

This recommended outfitter has all the essentials for a day out on the water. You can hire SUP boards (per one/two hours €25/40), windsurfing gear (per one/four hours from €25/80), sailing dinghies (two hours €65), catamarans and motorboats. If you lack the know-how, Tomaso also offers lessons in windsurfing (per hour €80), sailing (per hour from €110) and waterskiing (per half-hour €85).

WALKING TO ORRIDO DI SANT'ANNA

The 3km walk to Orrido di Sant'Anna ( GOOGLE MAP ) is a splendid way to see some of Cannobio's natural beauty. From the beach just north of the centre, follow the Cannobino River inland, crossing the second bridge (a bouncy pedestrian-only suspension bridge), and take the well-marked trail along the northern bank. This passes besides woods (meandering paths lead closer to the rushing mountain stream), and finally to tranquil shallows at the base of a cliff topped by a small church (the 17th-century Chiesa di Sant'Anna). The rocky beach here makes a fine spot for a dip on warm days. Just past the church is the Orrido di Sant'Anna, a tight ravine where the rushing water has carved a path through the mountains on its descent to the lake. From here, you can retrace your steps back to town, or loop back to Cannobio by taking the road from here. Take the trail leading uphill off to the right near the Camping Valle Romantica, which offers pretty views on the return to Cannobio.

Allow about two hours for the walk – though it's worth timing your arrival at Orrido di Sant'Anna to allow a lunchtime stop at the Grotto Sant’Anna ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0323 7 06 82; Via Sant’Anna 30, Orrido Sant’Anna; meals €35-45; hnoon-1.45pm & 7-9.45pm Tue-Sun Apr-Oct), right next to the ravine (reserve ahead). Though the trail is easy to follow, you can pick up a map and get other walking suggestions at the tourist office.

4Sleeping & Eating

oHotel PironiHOTEL€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0323 7 06 24; www.pironihotel.it; Via Marconi 35; s €120, d €160-195; pW)

Set in a 15th-century mini-monastery (later home of the noble Pironi family) high in Cannobio's cobbled maze, Hotel Pironi is a charming choice. Thick-set stone walls shelter interiors evocative of another era; it's full of antiques, frescoed vaults, exposed timber beams and stairs climbing off in odd directions.

Lo ScaloMODERN ITALIAN€€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0323 7 14 80; www.loscalo.com; Piazza Vittorio Emanuele III 32; meals €45-55; hnoon-2.30pm & 7-11pm Wed-Sun, 7-11pm Tue)

Cannobio's best restaurant, Lo Scalo serves cuisine that is sophisticated and precise, featuring dishes such as a suckling pig with spring onions and black garlic, and ricotta and tomato gnocchi with clams. The two-course lunch (€25) and five-course menù degustazione (€55) are both great-value treats, best enjoyed at a table on the waterfront promenade.

8Information

Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0323 7 12 12; www.procannobio.it; Via Giovanola 25; h9am-noon & 4-7pm Mon-Sat, 9am-noon Sun)

Hands out brochures and provides town info. Located next to the Romanesque bell tower.

MAGGIORE'S FABULOUS FRESCOES

Among the best-kept secrets of the Lake Maggiore area are the fabulous frescoes, artistic remnants with centuries of history, in some cases remarkably well preserved. The best range from pre-Romanesque to wonderful Florentine Renaissance. Our favourites include the following:

Basilica di San Giulio The 12th-century church on Lake Orta’s island is jammed with vibrant frescoes depicting saints.

Museo della Collegiata ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.museocollegiata.it; Via Cardinal Branda 1, Castiglione Olona; adult/reduced €6/4; h10am-1pm & 3-6pm Tue-Sun Apr-Sep, 9.30am-12.30pm & 2.30-5.30pm Tue-Sat & 10am-1pm & 3-6pm Sun Oct-Mar) Florentine master Masolino da Panicale carried out a series on the life of St John the Baptist in 1435.

Chiesa di Santa Maria Foris Portas (Holy Mary Outside the Gates; GOOGLE MAP ; Castelseprio; h8.30am-7pm Tue-Fri, 8.30am-2.30pm & 5.30-7pm Sat, 9.45am-2.30pm & 5.30-6pm Sun Feb-Nov, shorter hours Dec & Jan) A modest Lombard church contains extraordinary pre-Romanesque frescoes that may date to the 7th century.

Santa Caterina del Sasso The church in this former monastery is filled with well-preserved frescoes.

Arona

Pop 14,200

Some 20km south of Stresa, Arona is a lively lakeside town whose lanes are lined with shops and eateries, and its picturesque piazzas draw a wide cross section of Maggiorean society in the evenings. Arona was the birthplace of the son of the Count of Arona and Margherita de’ Medici, who would go on to be canonised San Carlo Borromeo (1538–84). Arona's biggest attraction is a massive statue of San Carlo that looms on a hilltop north of town.

1Sights

Sacro Monte di San CarloLANDMARK

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0322 24 96 69; www.statuasancarlo.it; Piazza San Carlo; €6, to exterior only €3.50; h9am-12.30pm & 2.30-6.15pm mid-Mar–mid-Oct, to 4.30pm Sun Nov-Dec and Mar 1-15, closed Jan & Feb)

When Milan's superstar bishop San Carlo Borromeo (1538–84) was declared a saint in 1610, his cousin Federico ordered the creation of a sacro monte in his memory, featuring 15 chapels lining a path to a church. The church and three of those chapels were built, along with a special extra: a hollow 35m bronze-and-copper statue of the saint. Commonly known as the Sancarlone (Big St Charles) you can climb up inside it to discover spectacular views through the giant's eyes (and even ears).

5Eating

Taverna del PittoreRISTORANTE€€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0322 24 33 66; www.ristorantetavernadelpittore.it; Piazza del Popolo 39; meals €50-70; hnoon-2.30pm & 7.30-10pm Fri-Wed)

What is possibly Largo Maggiore's most romantic restaurant has a waterside terrace and views of the illuminated Rocca di Angera fortress at night. The refined food is no less fabulous, with squid, duck and octopus transformed into exquisitely arranged dishes featuring ravioli, broth, risotto and gnocchi.

Lago d'Orta

Enveloped by thick, dark-green woodlands, tranquil Lake Orta (aka Lake Cusio) could make a perfect elopers’ getaway. Measuring 13.4km long by 2.5km wide, it’s separated from its bigger and better-known eastern neighbour, Lake Maggiore, by Monte Mottarone. The focal point of the lake is the captivating medieval village of Orta San Giulio, often referred to simply as Orta.

1Sights

Orta San GiulioVILLAGE

( GOOGLE MAP )

Overlooking the forest-lined banks of the shimmering Lake Orta, this tiny village has abundant allure. There’s something magical about rising early and heading for a coffee on Piazza Mario Motta, gazing across at the sun-struck Isola San Giulio in the early-morning quiet.

At the north end of the square, a squat, fresco-enlivened structure sitting atop pillars like giant stilts, the Palazzotto, was once the seat of a local council and now occasionally opens for temporary exhibitions. The square burbles with local life on market day (Wednesday).

Basilica di San GiulioCHURCH

( GOOGLE MAP ; h9.30am-6pm Tue-Sun, 2-5pm Mon Apr-Sep, 9.30am-noon & 2-5pm Tue-Sun, 2-5pm Mon Oct-Mar)

This atmospheric church is the main attraction on the tiny Isola San Giulio and was built over various periods dating back to the 9th century. Its bell tower and medieval pulpit date from the 12th century. Frescoes (from the 14th to 19th centuries) cover the walls, though the church's most surprising feature is in the sacristy. From the vault hangs a large fossilized vertebra, which according to legend belonged to one of the terrible dragons San Giulio vanquished from the island.

Sacro Monte di San FrancescoCHAPEL, PARK

( GOOGLE MAP )

Beyond the lush gardens and residences that mark the hill rising behind Orta is a kind of parallel ‘town’ – the sacro monte, where 20 small chapels dedicated to St Francis of Assisi dot the hillside. The views down to the lake are captivating, and meandering from chapel to chapel is a wonderfully tranquil way to pass a few hours.

4Sleeping

Locanda di OrtaBOUTIQUE HOTEL€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0322 90 51 88; www.locandaorta.com; Via Olina 18; s €70, d €80-95, ste €150-160; W)

Teaming white leather and bold pink with medieval grey stone walls is a bold design choice – but it works. Because of the age and size of the building, the cheaper rooms are tiny, but still delightful. Suites are roomier; each features a Jacuzzi and a pocket-sized balcony overlooking the cobbled lane.

Hotel Leon d'OroHOTEL€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0322 91 19 91; www.albergoleondoro.it; Piazza Mario Motta 42; r €110-200; hFeb-Dec; aW)

At this grand 200-year-old hotel, a red carpet leads you through the front door of the lakefront beauty. Sunny yellows and deep blues dominate the decor, with heavy window curtains, timber furniture and tiled floors; though you should avoid the cramped standard rooms. It also has some smallish suites. The waterfront terrace offers gorgeous Isola San Giulio views.

Wi-fi costs extra (€2 per 24 hours).

Villa CrespiHISTORIC HOTEL€€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0322 91 19 02; www.hotelvillacrespi.it; Via Giuseppe Fava 18; d €365, ste €525-765; hApr-Dec; paiWs)

Staying at this Moorish extravaganza, which is topped with an aqua-coloured onion-dome spire, is to enter the madcap design dream of the family (a rich textile clan) that built this caprice. Think velvet walls, four-poster beds in some rooms and otherwise opulent interiors and sprawling gardens, all designed for cotton trader Benigno Crespi in 1879.

5Eating

Enoteca Al BoeucPIEDMONTESE€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %339 5840039; http://alboeuc.beepworld.it; Via Bersani 28; meals €18-25; h11.30am-3pm & 6.30pm-midnight Wed-Mon)

This candlelit stone cavern has been around since the 16th century. These days it offers glasses of fine wines (try the velvety Barolo) and snacks including mixed bruschette with truffles and mushrooms, meat and cheese platters, and that Piedmontese favourite: bagna caüda (a hot dip of butter, olive oil, garlic and anchovies in which you bathe vegetables).

oCucchiaio di LegnoAGRITURISMO€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %339 5775385; www.ilcucchiaiodilegno.com; Via Prisciola 10, Legro; set menu €30; h6-9pm Thu-Sun, noon-2.30pm Sat & Sun; paW)

Delicious home cooking emerges from the kitchen of this honest-to-goodness agriturismo (farm-stay accommodation); expect fish fresh from the lake, and salami and cheese from the surrounding valleys. When eating al fresco on the vine-draped patio it feels rather like you're dining at the house of a friend. Bookings required.

VenusTRATTORIA€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0322 9 03 62; www.venusorta.it; Piazza Motta 50; meals €30-45; hnoon-3pm & 6-10pm Tue-Sun)

Although the food doesn't quite match the views, this lakeside charmer always draws a crowd. The menu of hearty local dishes features rich plates of creamy risotto with scallops, lamb chops in a pistachio crust and fillet of perch with a butter, spinach and citrus reduction.

oLocanda di OrtaMODERN ITALIAN€€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0322 90 51 88; www.locandaorta.com; Via Olina 18; meals €55-80, menus €75-90; hnoon-2.30pm & 7.30-9pm)

Some of Orta's most creative cooking is served up in the wisteria-draped Locanda di Orta, squeezed into the heart of the old town. It's a supremely stylish, intimate affair (it only seats around 17 people) where culinary alchemy converts traditional Lake Orta ingredients into works of foodie art.

ALESSI OUTLET STORE

Established in the small town of Omegna on Lago d'Orta in 1921, Alessi went on to transform modern kitchens with humorous, ultracool utensils designed by a pantheon of great-name architect-designers, including Achille Castiglioni, Philippe Starck, Massimiliano Fuksas and, most recently, Zaha Hadid. Go mad in this huge factory outlet ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0323 86 86 48; www.alessi.com; Via Privata Alessi 6, Omegna; h9.30am-6pm Mon-Sat, 2.30-6pm Sun), where the whole range sits alongside special offers and end-of-line deals.

8Information

Main Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0322 91 19 72; www.distrettolaghi.it; Via Panoramica; h10am-1pm & 2-6pm Wed-Mon)

This small info house on the road into Orta San Giulio can provide information on the whole of Lake Orta.

Pro LocoTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %339 5267436; Via Bossi 11; h11am-1pm & 2-4pm Mon, Tue & Thu, 10am-1pm & 2-4pm Fri-Sun)

In the town hall, this is a handy office for all things Lake Orta related. The small public garden behind the office has pretty lake views.

8Getting There & Away

Boat

Navigazione Lago d'OrtaFERRY

(%345 5170005; www.navigazionelagodorta.it)

Operates ferries from its landing stage on Piazza Motta ( GOOGLE MAP ) to places including Isola San Giulio (return €3.15), Omegna, Pella and Ronco. A day ticket for unlimited travel anywhere on the lake costs €9.

Train

The main destination for most visitors is Orta-Miasino, located 3km outside of Orta San Giulio. From Milan's Stazione Centrale trains go to Orta-Miasino every two hours or so – change at Novara – (from €9, two hours).

Lago di Como

Set in the shadow of the snow-covered Rhaetian Alps and hemmed in on both sides by steep wooded hills, Lake Como (aka Lake Lario) is the most spectacular of the region's three major lakes. Shaped like an upside-down Y (or an armless wanderer), its winding shoreline is dotted with ancient villages and exquisite villas.

The lake's main town, Como, sits where the southern and western shores converge.

zFestivals & Events

Lake Como FestivalMUSIC

(www.lakecomofestival.com; hMay-Sep)

Several times a month from May through September, musical concerts are held at some of Lago di Como's finest villas.

8Information

The website www.lakecomo.it features information covering the whole lake.

8Getting There & Around

Boat

Ferries and hydrofoils operated by Como-based Navigazione Lago di Como ( GOOGLE MAP ; %800 551801; www.navigazionelaghi.it; Lungo Lario Trento) criss-cross the lake, departing year-round from the jetty at the north end of Piazza Cavour. Single fares range from €2.50 (Como–Cernobbio) to €12.60 (Como–Lecco or Como–Gravedona). Return fares are double. Hydrofoil fast services entail a supplement of €1.40 to €4.90, depending on the trip.

Bus

ASF AutolineeBUS

(%031 24 72 47; www.sptlinea.it)

Operates regular buses around Lago di Como, which in Como depart from the bus station on Piazza Matteotti ( GOOGLE MAP ; Piazza Matteotti). Key routes include Como to Colico (€6.10, two hours, three to five daily), via all the villages on the western shore, and Como to Bellagio (€3.40, 70 minutes, hourly).

Train

Como's main train station, Como San Giovanni ( GOOGLE MAP ; Via Corrado e Giulio Venini), is served from Milan's Stazione Centrale or Porta Garibaldi (€4.80 to €13.50 depending on type of train, 37 to 90 minutes, at least hourly) by trains that continue into Switzerland. Trains from Milan's Stazione Nord (€4.80, one hour, hourly) use Como's lakeside Como Nord Lago (Stazione FNM; GOOGLE MAP ; Via A Manzoni). When heading for Bellagio, it’s best to continue on the train to Varenna and make the short ferry crossing from there.

Como

Pop 84,500

With its charming historic centre, the town of Como sparkles year-round. Within its remaining 12th-century city walls, the beautiful people of this prosperous city whisk about from shop to cafe, sweeping by the grandeur of the city's cathedral, villas and the loveliness of its lakeshore with admirable insouciance. The town is a lovely spot for an aimless wander, punctuated with coffee and drink stops, especially in Piazzas Cavour, Alessandro Volta and San Fedele.

Como

1Top Sights

1Basilica di San FedeleD4

2DuomoC3

2Activities, Courses & Tours

3Funicolare Como–BrunateC1

4Sleeping

4Albergo del DucaC4

5Albergo FirenzeB4

6Avenue HotelC5

7Le Stanze del LagoC3

8QuarcinoD2

5Eating

9CastiglioniD5

10Gelateria CeccatoC2

11Mercato Mercerie di ComoD6

12Natta CaféC5

13Osteria del GalloC4

14Pane e TulipaniC4

15Ristorante da RinoC4

7Shopping

16A PicciD4

17Lopez VintageC4

18Mercato dell'Artigianato e AntiquariatoC4

1Sights

Passeggiata Lino GelpiWATERFRONT

( GOOGLE MAP )

One of Como's most charming walks is the lakeside stroll west from Piazza Cavour. Passeggiata Lino Gelpi leads past the Monumento ai Caduti (Memorial; GOOGLE MAP ; Viale Puecher 9), a 1931 memorial to Italy's WWI dead. Next you'll pass a series of mansions and villas, including Villa Saporiti ( GOOGLE MAP ; Via Borgovico 148) and Villa Gallia ( GOOGLE MAP ), both now owned by the provincial government and closed to the public, before arriving at the garden-ringed Villa Olmo.

Villa OlmoHISTORIC BUILDING

( GOOGLE MAP ; %031 25 23 52; www.villaolmocomo.it; Via Cantoni 1; gardens free, villa entry varies by exhibition; hvilla during exhibitions 10am-6pm Tue-Sun, gardens 8am-11pm Apr-Sep, to 7pm Oct-Mar)

Set facing the lake, the grand creamy facade of neoclassical Villa Olmo is one of Como's biggest landmarks. The extravagant structure was built in 1728 by the Odescalchi family, related to Pope Innocent XI. If there's an art exhibition showing, you'll get to admire the sumptuous stile Liberty (Italian art nouveau) interiors. Otherwise, you can enjoy the Italianate and English gardens.

oDuomoCATHEDRAL

(Cattedrale di Como; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %031 3 31 22 75; Piazza del Duomo; h10.30am-5pm Mon-Sat, 1-4.30pm Sun)

Although largely Gothic in style, elements of Romanesque, Renaissance and baroque can also be seen in Como's imposing, marble-clad duomo. The cathedral was built between the 14th and 18th centuries, and is crowned by a high octagonal dome.

oBasilica di San FedeleBASILICA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Piazza San Fedele; h8am-noon & 3.30-7pm)

With three naves and three apses, this evocative basilica is often likened to a clover leaf. Parts of it date from the 12th century while the facade is the result of a 1914 revamp. The 16th-century rose window and 16th- and 17th-century frescoes enhance the appeal. The apses are centuries-old and feature some eye-catching sculpture on the right.

Basilica di Sant'AbbondioBASILICA

( GOOGLE MAP ; Via Regina; h8am-6pm summer, to 4.30pm winter)

About 500m south of Como's city walls is the remarkable 11th-century Romanesque Basilica di Sant'Abbondio. Aside from its proud, high structure and impressive apse decorated with a beautiful geometric relief around the outside windows, the highlights are the extraordinary frescoes inside the apse.

Museo della SetaMUSEUM

(Silk Museum; GOOGLE MAP ; %031 30 31 80; www.museosetacomo.com; Via Castelnuovo 9; adult/reduced €10/7; h10am-6pm Tue-Fri, to 1pm Sat)

Lake Como's aspiring silk makers still learn their trade in the 1970s-built Istituto Tecnico Industriale di Setificio textile technical school. It's also home to the Museo della Seta, which draws together the threads of the town's silk history. Early dyeing and printing equipment features amid displays that chart the entire fabric production process.

THE KILOMETRE OF KNOWLEDGE (& BEAUTY)

On Sundays, the interconnected grounds of three Como villas open to the public (from about 10am to 6pm). Dotting the shore just northwest of the centre, a 1km promenade connects the Villa Olmo, the Villa del Grumello ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.villadelgrumello.it; Via Cernobbio 11; hgrounds 10am-7pm Sun year-round, daily in Aug) and the Villa Sucota ( GOOGLE MAP ; %031 338 49 76; www.fondazioneratti.org; Via Cernobbio 19; hgardens 10am-6pm Sun year-round, daily in Aug; museum hours vary). Sometimes referred to as the Chilometro della Conoscenza (Kilometre of Knowledge), this scenic stroll takes in lush trails, fragrant gardens and hilltop views with lovely Lake Como ever in the background. Be sure to stop in the Villa Olmo and the Villa Sucota, which often host temporary art exhibitions.

2Activities

oLido di Villa OlmoSWIMMING

( GOOGLE MAP ; %031 3 38 48 54; www.lidovillaolmo.it; Via Cernobbio 2; adult/reduced €9/5; h9am-7pm mid-May–Sep)

What a delight: a compact lido (beach) where you can plunge into open-air pools, sunbathe beside the lake, rent boats, sip cocktails at the waterfront bar and soak up mountain views. Bliss.

You'll have to bring a swim cap or purchase one here if you want to use the pool.

Aero Club ComoSCENIC FLIGHTS

( GOOGLE MAP ; %031 57 44 95; www.aeroclubcomo.com; Viale Masia 44; 30min flight for 1/2 people €180)

For a true touch of glamour, take one of these seaplane tours and buzz about the skies high above Como. The often-bumpy take-off and landing on the lake itself is thrilling, as are the views down onto the miniature villas and villages dotted far below. Flights are popular; in summer book three or four days ahead.

Funicolare Como–BrunateCABLE CAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %031 30 36 08; www.funicolarecomo.it; Piazza de Gasperi 4; adult one way/return €3/5.50, reduced €2/3.20; hhalf-hourly departures 6am-midnight summer, to 10.30pm winter)

Prepare for some spectacular views. The Como–Brunate cable car (built in 1894) takes seven minutes to trundle up to the quiet hilltop village of Brunate ( GOOGLE MAP ) (720m), revealing a memorable panorama of mountains and lakes. From there a steep 30-minute walk along a stony mule track leads to San Maurizio (907m), where 143 steps climb to the top of a lighthouse.

4Sleeping

QuarcinoHOTEL€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %031 30 39 34; www.hotelquarcino.it; Salita Quarchino 4; s/d/tr/q €53/80/105/120; paW)

You'll struggle to find a more appealing, central budget hotel in Como. The modern decor is simple but appealing; the bathrooms are pristine; and there are lake glimpses from some of the front rooms. Parking is free, but breakfast costs extra (€7 per person).

Le Stanze del LagoAPARTMENT€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %031 30 11 82; www.lestanzedellago.com; Via Rodari 6; apt €110-150; aW)

For a touch of loft living Como-style, check into one of these five serviced apartments, where sloping wooden ceilings and rough stone walls meet bright furnishings. The ample space (including a kitchenette and a dining area) and the location in the heart of Como make these a great deal.

oAvenue HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %031 27 21 86; www.avenuehotel.it; Piazzolo Terragni 6; d €190-280, ste €280-310; paW)

An assured sense of style at this delightful hotel sees ultramodern, minimalist rooms team crisp white walls with shots of purple or fuchsia-pink. Breakfast is served in a chic courtyard, service is warm but discreet, and you can borrow a bike for free.

Albergo del DucaHOTEL€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %031 26 48 59; www.albergodelduca.it; Piazza Mazzini 12; s/d €80/140; aW)

The setting is an attractive one (on the edge of a pedestrianised square); the atmosphere is all friendliness; and the rooms are as neat as a pin, with polished wooden floors. There's a good restaurant with terrace at the entrance.

Albergo FirenzeHOTEL€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %031 30 03 33; www.hotelfirenzecomo.it; Piazza Volta 16; s €120-160, d €130-170, tr €170-200; aW)

Overlooking the Piazza Volta a few blocks south of the waterfront, this smart hotel has bright, spotless rooms. Don't be put off by the somewhat gloomy reception area, but do consider paying extra for a superior room with a piazza view, as the rooms in back can be a little dark.

5Eating

Como’s food market (Food Market; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Viale C Battisti; h8.30am-1pm Tue & Thu, to 6.30pm Sat) is held outside Porta Torre.

oCascina RespaùITALIAN€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %031 52 36 62; www.cascinarespau.it; Via Santa Brigide e Respaù; meals €15-25; hnoon-3pm & 7-10pm Sat & Sun)S

Amid the lush greenery high above Como, this small rustic eatery feels like an idyllic escape from the sometimes maddening crowds along the lake. Charming hosts, delicious homemade dishes and a cosy setting (with outdoor seating on warm days) add to the appeal – as does the attention to locally sourced ingredients, like fall-off-the-bone pork and organic wines from small producers.

Gelateria CeccatoGELATO€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %031 2 33 91; Lungo Lario Trieste 16; gelato €2-4; hnoon-midnight summer, hours vary winter)

For generations comaschi (Como residents) have turned to Ceccato for their Sunday-afternoon gelato and then embarked on a ritual passeggiata (stroll) with their dripping cones along the lake shore. You can do no better than imitate them: order a creamy stracciatella (chocolate chip) or perhaps a mix of fresh fruit flavours and head off for a relaxed promenade.

oNatta CaféCAFE€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %031 26 91 23; www.facebook.com/nattacafecomo; Via Natta 16; meals €20-35; h12.30-3pm & 7.30-11pm Tue-Sun; W)S

In an atmospheric stone-arched dining room, this osteria (tavern) has a proud focus on superb local ingredients and classic wines, while also remaining remarkably warm and inviting. It's a particularly good spot for a light meal, with delectable cheese platters, creative bruschetta and piadine (flat-bread sandwiches) and excellent salmon tartare – though pastas and daily specials provide more filling options.

oCrotto del SergenteTRATTORIA€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %031 28 39 11; www.crottodelsergente.it; Via Crotto del Sergente 13; meals €35-45; hnoon-2pm & 7.30-10pm Sun-Fri, 7.30-10pm Sat)

Although it's a bit of a trek (4km southeast of Como's centre), the delectable Slow Food cooking at this rustic eatery makes it well worth the effort. Set in a barrel-vaulted brick dining room, Crotto del Sergente serves excellent grilled meats and seafood (including a flavoursome bouillabaisse), best matched with a fine glass of Nebbiolo. Reserve ahead.

oOsteria del GalloITALIAN€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %031 27 25 91; www.osteriadelgallo-como.it; Via Vitani 16; meals €26-32; h12.30-3pm Mon, to 10pm Tue-Sat)

An ageless osteria that looks exactly the part. In the wood-lined dining room, wine bottles and other goodies fill the shelves, and diners sit at small timber tables to tuck into traditional local food. The menu is chalked up daily and might include a first course of zuppa di ceci (chickpea soup), followed by lightly fried lake fish.

Pane e TulipaniCAFE€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %031 26 42 42; www.pane-e-tulipani.com; Via Lambertenghi 3; meals €28-45; h10am-11pm Tue-Sun)

With its vast number of grappa bottles, shabby-chic furniture and huge vases of flowers, this sweet eatery – which is part-cafe, part-bistro and part–flower shop – has a bohemian air. This means you get to sample creative twists on Italian standards (don't expect big portions) or linger in the afternoon over drinks and snacks surrounded by a profusion of blooms.

Ristorante da RinoTUSCAN€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %031 27 30 28; www.ristoranterino.com; Via Vitani 3; meals €35-45; h12.30-2pm & 7.30-10pm Tue-Sat, 12.30-2pm Sun)

When the (acclaimed) specialities of the house all involve truffles, you tend to be onto a good thing. There's a stellar range of primi and secondi, and you'll find truffles with tagliolini (thin ribbon pasta), risotto and eggs. The pick is filetto alla medici – a tender beef fillet steeped in truffles and red wine.

CastiglioniTRATTORIA€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %031 26 33 88; www.castiglionistore.com; Via Cantù 9; meals €25-30; hdeli 8am-2pm & 4-7pm Mon-Fri, 9am-7.30pm Sat, restaurant noon-2.30pm Mon-Sat)

Going strong since 1958, Castiglioni's wonderful deli has evolved to include a wine bar and now a restaurant. Sample dozens of local vintages with plates of sweet prosciutto, or take lunch on the pleasant outdoor patio. The menu, which includes all manner of charcuterie plates, lake fish and mountain meat dishes, is surprisingly refined and great value.

7Shopping

A weekly craft and antiques market fills the piazza beside the Basilica di San Fedele.

Lopez VintageFASHION & ACCESSORIES

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %031 24 20 43; Via Vitani 32; h10am-12.30pm & 3.30-7pm Tue-Sat)

On Como's most atmospheric street, Lopez Vintage lures you in with its whimsical window displays of curios from a bygone era. Inside, the tiny jewel box of a shop has elegant vintage pieces – slim-fitting dresses, oversized sunglasses, hats, accessories and other eye candy. Prices can be high, but you'll discover unique apparel you won't find elsewhere.

A PicciGIFTS & SOUVENIRS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %031 26 13 69; Via Vittorio Emanuele II 54; h3-7.30pm Mon, 9am-12.30pm & 3-7.30pm Tue-Sat)

First opened in 1919, this is the last remaining silk shop in town dedicated to selling Como-designed-and-made silk ties, scarves, throws and sarongs. Products are grouped by price category (starting at €15 for a tie), reflecting the skill and workmanship involved.

8Information

Main Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %031 26 97 12; www.visitcomo.eu; Piazza Cavour 17; h9am-1pm & 2.30-6pm Mon-Sat year-round, 9.30am-1pm Sun Jun-Sep)

Como's main tourist office.

Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %342 0076403; www.visitcomo.eu; Como San Giovanni, Piazzale San Gottardo; h9am-5pm summer, 10am-4pm Wed-Mon winter)

Inside the San Giovanni train station.

Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %031 26 42 15; www.visitcomo.eu; Via Comacini; h10am-6pm)

Beside the duomo.

Bellagio

Pop 3100

Bellagio’s waterfront of bobbing boats, its maze of steep stone staircases and its gardens filled with rhododendrons are a true joy. Inevitably these draw the summer crowds – stay overnight for a more authentic feel and the full magical effect.

1Sights

Before setting out to explore Bellagio, pick up the three self-guided walking tour brochures from the tourist office. They range from one-hour (Historical Tour & Itinerary of the Central Part of Town) to a three-hour walk that takes in neighbouring villages, including Pescallo, a small one-time fishing port about 1km from the centre, and Loppia, with the 11th-century Chiesa di Santa Maria, which is only visitable from the outside.

Villa Melzi d'ErilGARDENS

( GOOGLE MAP ; %339 4573838; www.giardinidivillamelzi.it; Lungo Lario Manzoni; adult/reduced €6.50/4; h9.30am-6.30pm Apr-Oct)

The grounds of neoclassical Villa Melzi d’Eril are a highlight among Lake Como's (many) delightful places. The villa was built in 1808 for one of Napoleon’s associates and is coloured by flowering azaleas and rhododendrons in spring. The statue-studded garden was the first English-style park on the lake.

Villa SerbelloniGARDENS

( GOOGLE MAP ; %031 95 15 55; Piazza della Chiesa 14; adult/child €9/5; htours 11.30am & 3.30pm Tue-Sun mid-Mar–Oct)

The lavish gardens of Villa Serbelloni cover much of the promontory on which Bellagio sits. The villa has been a magnet for Europe's great and good, including Austria's emperor Maximilian I, Ludovico il Moro and Queen Victoria. The interior is closed to the public, but you can explore the terraced park and gardens, by guided tour only. Numbers are limited; tickets are sold at the PromoBellagio information office near the church.

2Activities

Lido di BellagioSWIMMING

( GOOGLE MAP ; %031 95 11 95; www.lidodibellagio.com; Via Carcano 1; per half/full day €6/10; h10.30am-6.30pm Tue-Sun May, Jun & Sep, daily Jul & Aug)

With its sand-covered decking, diving platforms and gazebos, Bellagio's lido is a prime place to laze on a sun lounger or plunge into the lake.

Bellagio Water SportsWATER SPORTS

( GOOGLE MAP ; %340 394 93 75; www.bellagiowatersports.com; Pescallo Harbour; rental per 2/4hr €18/30, tours €35; h8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Sat, to 2.30pm Sun)

You can hire sit-on-top kayaks and SUP boards at this experienced outfitter based in Pescallo, on the east side of the Bellagio headland. Bellagio Water Sports also offers five different kayaking tours, from a one-hour paddle taking in nearby historical villas to a 3½-hour trip to scenic Varenna.

Barindelli'sBOATING

( GOOGLE MAP ; %338 211 03 37; www.barindellitaxiboats.it; Piazza Mazzini; tours per hour €150)

For a touch of film-star glamour, take a tour in one of Barindelli's chic mahogany cigarette boats. The group offers hour-long sunset tours around the Bellagio headland and can also tailor-make outings around the lake.

CCourses

oBellagio Cooking ClassesCOOKING

( GOOGLE MAP ; %333 7860090; www.gustoitalianobellagio.com; Salita Plinio 5; per person €90)

A wonderful way to really get to know Bellagio, these cooking classes have a personal touch – they take you to the village shops to buy the food and then local home-cooks lead the sessions. Classes are small (a minimum of three, maximum of seven). Payment in cash only.

4Sleeping

Locanda BarchettaB&B€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %031 95 10 30; www.ristorantebarchetta.com; Via Centrale 13; d €90-100; W)

A great-value, central hideaway tucked into Bellagio's maze of cobbled streets. Barchetta provides small, unfussy but spruce rooms and a fabulous breakfast.

Hotel SilvioHOTEL€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %031 95 03 22; www.bellagiosilvio.com; Via Carcano 10; d €135-190, meals €32-42; paWs)

Located above the fishing hamlet of Loppia a short walk from the village, this family-run hotel is one of Bellagio's most relaxing spots. Here you can wake up in a contemporary Zen-like room and gaze out over the gardens of some of Lago di Como's most prestigious villas, then spend the morning at Bellagio’s lido; it's free for hotel guests.

Residence La LimoneraAPARTMENT€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %031 95 21 24; www.residencelalimonera.com; Via Bellosio 2; r €110-180; aiW)

It's a steep but supremely picturesque hike up cobbled lanes to this elegant villa, set high up in Bellagio in an old lemon grove. Once there you'll discover 11 spacious and thoughtfully furnished self-catering apartments for two to four people.

Il BorgoAPARTMENT€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %031 95 24 97; www.borgoresidence.it; Salita Plinio 4; r €105-135; aW)

With their blond-wood beams and sleek lines, these stylish apartments make it easy to imagine living in Bellagio full time. Especially as you're just a minute's walk down a picturesque lane to the lake and are surrounded by countless eateries and bars.

5Eating

oRistorante SilvioITALIAN€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %031 95 03 22; www.bellagiosilvio.com; Via Carcano 12; meals €28-38; hnoon-3pm & 6.30-10pm Mar–mid-Nov & Christmas week)

Operating since 1919, this place must be getting something right to achieve the seemingly unanimous acclaim. Simple food at reasonable prices combines with lovely views over the lake. You might start with a riso e filetto di pesce (rice with lemon juice and Parmesan, topped by fillets of the day's lake catch), followed by a frittura leggera di luccio (fry-up of pike chunks).

oIttiturismo da AbateSEAFOOD€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %031 91 49 86; www.ittiturismodabate.it; Frazione Villa 4, Lezzeno; meals €28-38; h7-10.30pm Tue-Sun, noon-2.30pm Sun; pc)

Most dishes at Slow Food–focused Da Abate feature fish that's been caught that day in the lake (the restaurant will only open if they've caught enough), so you can sample lavarello (white fish) in balsamic vinegar, linguine with perch and black olives, and the robust missoltino (fish dried in salt and bay leaves).

oEnoteca Cava TuraccioloWINE BAR

( GOOGLE MAP ; %031 95 09 75; www.cavaturacciolo.it; Salita Genazzini 3; h10.30am-1am Thu-Tue Apr-Oct, shorter hours Nov, Dec & Mar, closed Jan & Feb)

A contender for Bellagio's most charming address, this cosy wine bar occupies a candlelit, stonewalled space tucked down a lane near the waterfront. The encyclopedic wine list covers every region in Italy, and there's excellent charcuterie and cheese boards on offer – as well as a few pasta and fish plates.

7Shopping

Alimentaria GastronomiaFOOD

( GOOGLE MAP ; Via Bellosio 1; h7.30am-9pm)

The smells wafting out from this deli will surely tempt you to step inside. Among the piled-high Larian goodies are dried porcini mushrooms, DOP Laghi Lombardi-Lario olive oil, missoltini (dried fish) and some rather irreverently shaped bottles of limoncello.

8Information

PromoBellagioTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %031 95 15 55; www.bellagiolakecomo.com; Piazza della Chiesa 14; h9.30am-1pm Mon, 9-11am & 2.30-3.30pm Tue-Sun Apr-Oct)

A consortium of local businesses that provides useful information. This is also the place to book guided tours to visit Villa Serbelloni.

Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %031 95 02 04; www.bellagiolakecomo.com; Piazza Mazzini; h9am-1pm & 2-6pm Mon-Sat, 10.30am-12.30pm & 1.30-5.30pm Sun, reduced hours winter)

Bellagio's official tourist office, next to the boat landing stage, is quite helpful. Can provide information on walks in the area, water sports, mountain biking and other activities.

Cernobbio to Lenno

The sunny, western lake-front stretch from Cernobbio to Lenno is one of Lago di Como’s most glamorous. The big draws here are the blockbuster villas; some are open to the public (such as the bewitching Villa Balbianello); some are most definitely closed (including George Clooney’s place, Villa Oleandra, in Laglio).

1Sights

oVilla BalbianelloVILLA, GARDENS

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0344 5 61 10; www.fondoambiente.it; Via Comoedia 5, Località Balbianello; villa & gardens adult/reduced €20/10, gardens only adult/reduced €10/5; hgardens 10am-6pm Tue & Thu-Sun mid-Mar–mid-Nov)

A 1km walk along the (partially wooded) lake shore from Lenno's main square, Villa Balbianello has cinematic pedigree: this was where scenes from Star Wars Episode II and the 2006 James Bond remake of Casino Royale were shot. The reason? It is one of the most dramatic locations anywhere on Lake Como, providing a genuinely stunning marriage of architecture and lake views.

4Sleeping

Villa d'EsteHISTORIC HOTEL€€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %031 34 81; www.villadeste.it; Via Regina 40; d €970-1430, ste €1530-1850; paiWs)

Much of Lago di Como draws the rich and glamorous; this hotel draws the richest and most glamorous of the lot. The 16th-century palace is beyond luxury: rich brocades drape beside marble bathrooms; balconies are bigger than some hotel rooms; fountains burble beside statues gazing onto exquisite lake views.

Villa Regina TeodolindaLUXURY HOTEL€€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %031 40 00 31; www.villareginateodolinda.com; Via Vecchia Regina 58, Laglio; r €190-450; hMar-Oct; paiWs)

For a taste of the A-lister lifestyle, head for this sumptuous villa, slightly north of the village of Laglio (sometime residence of Mr and Mrs Clooney). Elegant and deliciously tasteful rooms, many with lake views, emit refined sophistication; the welcome is discretion itself. Approach by the lake road or by boat via the private landing stage; you'll pass through delightful gardens either way.

5Eating

oAntica Trattoria del RisorgimentoITALIAN€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0344 4 17 89; Via San Abbondio 8, Mezzegra; meals €30-38; h7-10.30pm Tue-Sun & noon-2.30pm Sat & Sun; Wv)

Tucked down a narrow lane in the tiny village of Mezzegra, this charming spot cooks up beautifully prepared regional dishes. The small menu, which changes by day, features three different starters, three first courses and three second courses, and might include delicacies like lake trout cooked on a stone, risotto with wild nettle, and roast suckling pig. Reserve ahead.

oMateriaITALIAN€€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %031 207 55 48; www.ristorantemateria.it; Via Cinque Giornate 32; meals €45-55, menus €50-90; hnoon-2.30pm Wed-Sun & 7-10.30pm Tue-Sun)

The talk of the town is this enticing Zen-like space, a 10-minute walk from the waterfront. Materia sources many herbs (including unusual varieties) and vegetables from its own greenhouse, and its daring menu pushes flavour notes you won't find elsewhere. Think marinated trout with horseradish and fermented kiwi; pearl barley with sage, bacon and potatoes; and lamb with wild garlic.

Tremezzo

Pop 1260

Tremezzo draws fleets of ferries thanks to the 17th-century Villa Carlotta and spectacular Lago di Como views.

1Sights

oVilla CarlottaHISTORIC BUILDING

( GOOGLE MAP ; %034 44 04 05; www.villacarlotta.it; Via Regina 2; adult/reduced €10/8; h9am-7.30pm Apr-Sep, 9.30am-5pm mid-Mar & Oct)

Waterfront Villa Carlotta sits high on Como's must-visit list. The botanic gardens are filled with colour from orange trees interlaced with pergolas, while some of Europe's finest rhododendrons, azaleas and camellias bloom. The 8-hectare gardens also contain a lush fern valley, a bamboo grove, a Zen-style rock garden, towering cedars and a high-up lookout fringed by olive trees. The 17th-century villa, strung with paintings, sculptures (some by Antonio Canova) and tapestries adds an artful element to the beauty.

4Sleeping & Eating

oHotel La PerlaHOTEL€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0344 4 17 07; www.laperlatremezzo.com; Via Romolo Quaglino 7; d €125-160, with lake views €165-180, family ste €250; paWs)

It's rare that hotels are so universally acclaimed as this one. Rooms are immaculate; service is warm and friendly; and the vantage point from the hillside setting is one of Lago di Como's loveliest. All this is housed in an artful conversion of a 1960s villa. It's worth paying extra for a room with a view.

oAl VeluuRISTORANTE€€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0344 4 05 10; www.alveluu.com; Via Rogaro 11; meals €45-75; hnoon-2.30pm & 7-10pm Wed-Mon; c)

Situated on a steep hillside with panoramic lake views from its terrace, this excellent restaurant serves up home-cooked dishes that are prepared with great pride. They also reflect Lake Como's seasonal produce, so expect butter-soft, milk-fed kid with rosemary at Easter or wild asparagus and polenta in spring.

8Information

Tremezzo Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0344 4 04 93; Via Statale Regina; h9am-noon & 3.30-6.30pm Wed-Mon Apr-Oct)

By the boat jetty.

Varenna

Pop 780

Varenna, a beguiling village bursting with florid plantlife, exotic flowery perfumes and birdsong, is a short ferry ride away from its rival in postcard beauty, Bellagio. Its pastel-coloured houses defy the standard laws of physics, seeming to grip for all they're worth to the steep slopes that rise from the lake.

1Sights

Castello di VezioCASTLE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %348 8242504; www.castellodivezio.it; Vezio, near Varenna; adult/reduced €4/3; h10am-6pm Apr-Sep, to 5pm Mar & Oct)

High above the terracotta rooftops of Varenna, the imposing Castello di Vezio offers magnificent views over Lake Como. The 13th-century building was once part of a chain of early-warning medieval watchtowers. Get there by taking a steep cobblestone path (about a half-hour hike) from Olivedo (the northern end of Varenna) to Vezio. You can also take a path (around 40-minutes' walk) along the Sentiero Scabium, reached by taking the uphill ramp just opposite the Villa Monastero.

Villa CipressiGARDENS

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0341 83 01 13; www.hotelvillacipressi.it; Via IV Novembre 22; adult/child €4/2; h10am-6pm Mar-Oct)

In Villa Cipressi's gardens cypress trees, palms, magnolias and camellias fill terraces that descend to the lake. Even getting here is picturesque: from the square next to the boat jetty (Piazzale Martiri della Libertà), follow the narrow lakeside promenade around the shore then bear left (inland) up the steps to central Piazza San Giorgio. The villa is signposted from there.

4Sleeping

Albergo MilanoHOTEL€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0341 83 02 98; www.varenna.net; Via XX Settembre 35; s €130, d €150-210; hMar-Oct; aiW)

In the middle of Varenna on the pedestrian main street (well, lane), hillside Albergo Milano opens onto a terrace with magnificent lake vistas. Most of the 12 rooms have some kind of lake view and balcony – they're also tastefully appointed, with gaily painted iron bedsteads, dark-wood wardrobes and creamy-white linen.

5Eating

Il CavatappiITALIAN€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0341 81 53 49; www.cavatappivarenna.it; Via XX Settembre 10; meals €30-40; hnoon-2pm & 6.30-9pm Thu-Tue, closed Jan & Feb; v)

Set along a narrow pedestrian lane in the upper part of Varenna, Il Cavatappi is an intimate spot with just seven tables set amid arched ceilings and stone walls, as opera plays quietly in the background. The cooking is outstanding, with creative twists on traditional recipes.

Osteria Quatro PassITALIAN€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0341 81 50 91; www.quattropass.com; Via XX Settembre 20; meals €28-42; hnoon-2pm & 7-10pm, closed Mon-Wed winter)

Places that don't have a lake view in Varenna are at a distinct disadvantage, which is why this place works just that extra bit harder with the food and service. Cured meats, lake fish and other local specialities are perfectly prepared and presented.

CavallinoTRATTORIA€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0341 81 52 19; www.cavallino-varenna.it; Piazza Martiri della Libertà 5; meals €32-42; hnoon-2.30pm & 7-9.30pm Thu-Tue; c)

Lake-fish specialities pack the menu of this Slow Food eatery set on Varenna's quay. Among the highlights are crostoni topped with a fish and calvados pâté; ravioli filled with lavarello (white fish) in a creamy radicchio sauce; and a risotto of perch, Parmesan, butter and sage.

Vecchia VarennaITALIAN€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0341 83 07 93; www.vecchiavarenna.it; Contrada Scoscesa 14; meals €35-45; h12.30-2pm & 7.30-9.30pm Tue-Sun)

You can't get closer to Lake Como than these 15 or so tables set on a terrace suspended over the water. Which means you can dine on lake fish, duck breast or little gnocchi cooked in goat cheese, cream and truffle oil while gazing over towards Como's western shore.

6Drinking & Nightlife

Il MoloBAR

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0341 83 00 70; www.barilmolo.it; Via Riva Garibaldi 14; h9am-1am Apr-Oct)

The tiny terrace of Bar Il Molo is Varenna's most sought-after aperitivi spot. It's raised above the water with cracking views north right up the lake.

It's also a fine spot for pizzas, salads, hot sandwiches and other light fare.

8Information

Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0341 83 03 67; www.varennaitaly.com; Via 4 Novembre 3; h10am-3pm Mon, 10am-1pm & 2-6pm Tue-Sun Jul, shorter hours rest of year)

Varenna's tourist office can provide information on the lake's entire eastern shore. Located on the main road in town, just west of Villa Monastero.

Lago d'Iseo

Cradled in a deep glacial valley and shut in by soaring mountains, little-known Lake Iseo (aka Sebino) is a magnificent sight. The main town, picturesque Iseo (population 9200), is tucked into the southwest shore. To the west, the lovely old town of Sarnico (population 6640) features Liberty villas, while in the north Lovere (population 6630) is a working harbour with a higgledypiggledy old centre and a wealth of walkingtrails.

Lago d’Iseo is less than 50km from both Bergamo and Brescia. To its north stretches the Valle Camonica, renowned for its prehistoric rock carvings; to the south sits the rolling Franciacorta wine region.

1Sights & Activities

Monte IsolaISLAND

( GOOGLE MAP )

Monte Isola towers from the south end of Lake Iseo, making it easily the lake's most intriguing feature. It's Europe's largest lake island, at 4.28 sq km, and today remains dotted with fishing villages. From Carzano, in the northeast – where many ferries land – you can climb rough stairs to the scattered rural settlements and follow a path to the top of the island (599m).

Accademia TadiniGALLERY

( GOOGLE MAP ; %035 96 27 80; www.accademiatadini.it; Via Tadini 40, Lovere; adult/reduced €7/5; h3-7pm Tue-Sat, 10am-noon & 3-7pm Sun May-Sep, weekends only Apr & Oct)

A considerable art collection with works by Jacopo Bellini, Giambattista Tiepolo and Antonio Canova set in an imposing neoclassical palace on the lakefront in Lovere.

IseobikeCYCLING

( GOOGLE MAP ; %340 3962095; www.iseobike.com; Via per Rovato 26, Iseo; bike rental per 2hr/day €5/20, helmet €3; h9.30am-12.15pm & 2.30-7pm Apr-Sep)

Iseobike hires out bikes and can put together tailor-made cycling tours around the lake into the Franciacorta wine region.

FRANCIACORTA'S WINE REGION

You could easily spend days exploring the vineyards of the Franciacorta region (www.stradadelfranciacorta.it). To that end, most tourist offices in the region should have a copy of the Franciacorta Wine Route brochure. It details numerous hiking and cycling itineraries through the region (some of which are possible by car), and includes a pull-out list with contact details for over 100 local wineries.

4Sleeping & Eating

Hotel MilanoHOTEL€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %030 98 04 49; www.hotelmilano.info; Lungolargo Marconi 4, Iseo; s/d €47/90, with lakeviews €50/104; aiW)

One of several hotels in the centre of Iseo, the two-star, lakefront Milano is an excellent deal. It's definitely worth paying extra for the appealing lake-view rooms (one-week minimum stay from mid-July to mid-August), so you have a front-row seat for the sunset behind the mountains over the lake.

oLocanda al LagoITALIAN€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %030 988 64 72; www.locandaallago.it; Località Carzano 38, Monte Isola; meals €27-37; hnoon-2.30pm & 7-9pm Wed-Sun)

The Soardi family has been serving up local dishes since 1948, perfecting deceptively simple treatments of lake fish. It means you can sit on their waterside terrace and feast on trout carpaccio or the day's catch combined with trenette (a flat pasta) and lashings of extra virgin Monte Isola olive oil. It's near the quay where ferries from Sale Marasino stop.

GösTRATTORIA€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %030 982 18 18; www.trattoriagos.it; Viale Repubblica 6, Iseo; meals €25-35; h6pm-midnight daily, 11.30am-2pm Sat & Sun)

Behind Gös' nondescript front sits a gleaming microbrewery where happy locals tuck into meat-rich, homemade pasta dishes – try the beef, butter and cheese casoncelli (stuffed pasta). It's all best washed down with a glass or two of Gös' own zesty unfiltered brew.

La Tana dell'OrsoRISTORANTE€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %030 982 16 16; Vicolo Borni 19, Iseo; meals €32-42; h7-9.30pm Mon, Tue & Thu, noon-2pm & 7-9.30pm Fri-Sun)

For an intimate ambience and fine local fare head to this excellent eatery where a barrel ceiling sits above rough stone walls. 'The Bear's Den' is hidden away down a cobbled vicolo off Piazza Garibaldi. The gnocchi with mussels and clams, beef with polenta, and casoncelli (stuffed pasta) are all crowd-pleasers.

8Information

Iseo Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %030 374 87 33; www.iseolake.info; Lungolago Marconi 2, Iseo; h10am-12.30pm & 3.30-6.30pm May-Sep, shorter hours winter)

Facing the waterfront, the helpful Iseo Tourist Office can give you the low-down on the region. Ask here about vineyards open for wine tasting in Franciacorta.

8Getting There & Away

Iseo Train StationTRAIN STATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; Via XX Settembre)

Iseo train station links Iseo with Brescia (€3.30, 30 minutes, one to two hourly), where you can connect to Bergamo (from €6.70, 90 minutes)

Navigazione sul Lago d'IseoFERRY

(%035 97 14 83; www.navigazionelagoiseo.it)

Navigazione sul Lago d'Iseo ferries zigzag their way along the length of the lake with stops around Monte Isola. There are also fairly regular runs between Lovere and Pisogne in the north.

SABBUS

(%035 28 90 11; www.arriva.it)

Regular buses run between Sarnico and Bergamo (€3.80, 50 minutes).

Lago di Garda

Poets and politicians, divas and dictators, they’ve all been drawn to Lago di Garda. At 370 sq km it is the largest of the Italian lakes, straddling the border between Lombardy and the Veneto, with soaring mountains to the north and softer hills to the south. Everywhere villages line a string of natural harbours, and vineyards, olive groves and citrus trees range up the slopes.

8Information

The website www.visitgarda.com is a good source of lake-wide information.

OFF-THE-BEATEN-TRACK ACTIVITIES AROUND LAKE GARDA

Ponale Road Hike from Riva del Garda for a bird’s-eye view of Lake Garda.

Avemaria (%0444 127 84 30; www.avemariaboat.com; Via Conforto da Costozza 7, Vicenza; 7 days per person €990; c) Barge and cycle down the Mincio river.

Rocca di Manerba Cycle through the evergreen woods around.

Scuderia Castello ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0365 64 41 01; www.scuderiacastello.it; Via Castello 10, Gaino; s/d €55/110; p) Scale the Alto Garda plateau on horseback.

8Getting There & Around

Air

Verona Villafranca AirportAIRPORT

( GOOGLE MAP ; %045 809 56 66; www.aeroportoverona.it)

Boat

Navigazione Lago di GardaFERRY

(%030 914 95 11; www.navigazionelaghi.it)

Lake Garda has a surprisingly extensive ferry network. One-day, unlimited-travel foot-passenger tickets include: lake-wide (adult/reduced €34.30/17.60); lower lake (€23.40/12.40); and upper lake (€20.50/11). Sample single passenger fares include Sirmione to Salò (adult/reduced €9.80/5.90) and Riva del Garda to Sirmione (adult/reduced €15.10/8.60). Car ferries link Toscolano-Maderno with Torri del Benaco and (seasonally) Limone with Malcesine.

There are no ferries in winter; services are reduced in spring and autumn.

Bus

ATVBUS

(%045 805 79 22; www.atv.verona.it)

Runs buses up the lake's west side, including regular connections between Desenzano del Garda train station and Riva del Garda, via Salò and Gardone. ATV also runs shuttles along the lake's east shore with regular services between Riva del Garda and Verona, via Garda.

SIABUS

(%840 620001; www.arriva.it)

Operates regular buses from Brescia up the western side of the lake to Riva del Garda (€9, three hours, two-hourly). It also runs hourly buses linking Brescia with Desenzano, Sirmione, Peschiera and Verona along the southern shore.

Trentino TrasportiBUS

(%0461 82 10 00; www.ttesercizio.it)

Connects Riva del Garda with Trento (€4, one hour, every two hours).

Car

Car is the best way to get to Lake Garda, the A4 motorway skirting the southern shores on its way between Verona and Brescia.

Train

There are two railway stations on the southern shores of Lake Garda – one in Desenzano, the other in Peschiera. Both are served by direct trains from Verona and Brescia.

4Sleeping

Hotel EldaLODGE€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0464 59 10 40; www.hotelelda.com; Via 3 Giugno 3, Frazione Lenzumo, Ledro; s/d from €50/100; pis)S

This ultra-modern, glass-and-timber ecolodge 3km north of Lake Ledro is a real treat with its balconies affording views of the Val di Ledro and eco and bio deluxe rooms.The hotel has its own sauna and Turkish baths as well as a restaurant where ingredients are sourced from organic and cruelty-free farms.

3Entertainment

Medieval ShowTHEME PARK

( GOOGLE MAP ; adult/reduced dinner & show €30/20; h2 shows daily May–mid-Sep)

There are two daily medieval shows at CanevaWorld. The dinner and show session begins every day in the summer at 7.30pm.

Sirmione

Pop 7650

Built on the end of an impossibly thin, appendix-like peninsula sticking out from the southern shore, pretty Sirmione has drawn the likes of Catullus and Maria Callas to its banks over the centuries, and today millions of visitors follow in their footsteps for a glimpse of Lake Garda's prettiest village and a dip in its only hot spring.

1Sights & Activities

oGrotte di CatulloARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %030 91 61 57; www.grottedicatullo.beniculturali.it; Piazzale Orti Manara 4; adult/reduced €6/3, with Rocca Scaligera €10/5; h8.30am-7.30pm Tue-Sat & 9.30am-6.30pm Sun summer, 8.30am-5pm Tue-Sat & 8.30am-2pm Sun winter)

Occupying 2 hectares at Sirmione's northern tip, this ruined 1st century AD Roman villa is a picturesque complex of teetering stone arches and tumbledown walls, some three storeys high. It's the largest domestic Roman villa in northern Italy and wandering its terraced hillsides offers fantastic views.

Rocca ScaligeraCASTLE

(Castello Scaligero; GOOGLE MAP ; %030 91 64 68; adult/reduced €5/2.50, with Grotte di Catullo €10/5; h8.30am-7.30pm Tue-Sat, to 1.30pm Sun)

Expanding their influence northwards, the Scaligeri of Verona built this enormous square-cut castle right at the entrance to old Sirmione. Rising out of the still waters of the lake it guards the only bridge into town, looming over the scene with impressive crenellated turrets and towers. There's not a lot inside, but the climb up 146 steps to the top of the tower affords beautiful views over Sirmione's rooftops and the enclosed harbour.

oAquariaSPA

( GOOGLE MAP ; %030 91 60 44; www.termedisirmione.com; Piazza Piatti; pools per 90min/day €19/53, treatments from €30; hpools 9am-10pm Sun-Wed, to midnight Thu-Sat Mar-Jun & Sep-Dec, 9am-midnight daily Jul & Aug, hours vary Jan & Feb)

Sirmione is blessed with a series of offshore thermal springs that pump out water at a natural 37°C. They were discovered in the late 1800s and the town's been tapping into their healing properties ever since. At the Aquaria spa you can enjoy a soothing wallow in two thermal pools – the outdoor one is set right beside the lake.

4Sleeping & Eating

oMeublé GrifoneHOTEL€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %030 91 60 14; www.gardalakegrifonehotel.eu; Via Gaetano Bocchio 4; s €50-80, d €70-110)

The location is superb: set right beside the shore, Grifone's many bedrooms directly overlook the lake and Sirmione's castle. With this family-run hotel you get five-star views for two-star prices. Inside it's all old-school simplicity, but very spick and span. Breakfast and a balcony cost €10 extra each.

Hotel MarconiHOTEL€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %030 91 60 07; www.hotelmarconi.net; Via Vittorio Emanuele II 51; s €45-75, d €80-150; paW)

Blue-and-white-striped umbrellas line the lakeside deck at this stylish, family-run hotel. The quietly elegant, light-filled rooms, some with balconies and lake views, sport subtle shades and crisp fabrics, while the breakfasts involving freshly baked bread and cakes in an elegant dining room are a treat.

oLa Rucola 2.0GASTRONOMY, GARDESE€€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %030 91 63 26; www.ristorantelarucola.it; Vicolo Strentelle 7; meals €75-120; hnoon-2.30pm & 7-11pm Sat-Wed, 7-11pm Fri)

Boasting a Michelin star, Sirmione's best eatery is a refined affair. A recent makeover lends modern freshness to the experience while the chefs add a touch of class to a menu strong on sea and lake fish. Expect sea bass, prawns and the catch of the day to feature in risottos, pastas and grilled guises, combined with flavour-enhancing confits, pâtés and marinades.

8Information

Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %030 91 61 14; iat.sirmione@provincia.brescia.it; Viale Marconi 8; h10am-12.30pm & 3-6.30pm daily summer, 10am-12.30pm & 3-6pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am-12.30pm Sat winter)

Efficient if visitor-weary office on the main road into Sirmione, just before the castle.