Valtenesi

The Valtenesi stretches languidly between Desenzano and Salò, its rolling hills etched with vine trellises and flecked with olive groves. The main lake road heads inland, allowing for gentle explorations of an array of wineries and small towns, including Padenghe sul Garda, Moniga del Garda, Manerba del Garda and San Felice del Benaco.

1Sights & Activities

oParco Archeologico Rocca di ManerbaNATURE RESERVE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0365 55 25 33; www.parcoroccamanerba.net; Via Rocca 20, Manerba del Garda; h10am-8pm Apr-Sep, to 6pm Thu-Sun Oct-Mar)F

Protected by Unesco, the gorgeous 'rock of Minerva' juts out scenically into the lake just north of Moniga del Garda. The park contains the remaining low rubble walls of a medieval castle, a restful nature reserve of evergreen woods, orchid meadows and walking trails, and some of the best beaches on the lake.

Santuario della Madonna del CarmineMONASTERY

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0365 6 20 32; www.santuariodelcarmine-sanfelice.it; Via Fontanamonte 1, San Felice del Benaco; h7am-noon & 3-6pm; p)

The sanctuary of the Madonna del Carmine dates from 1452. Its simple Gothic-Romanesque exterior does little to prepare you for the technicolour frescoes inside, depicting images of Christ and the Virgin and scenes resonant with the Carmelite Order.

Cicli MataCYCLING

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0365 55 43 01; www.matashop.it; Via Nazionale 63, Raffa di Puegnago; half/full day €20/27; h9am-1pm & 2.30-7.30pm Tue-Sat, 2.30-7.30pm Sun & Mon)

The Valtenesi is perfect cycling country, so pick up a bike from Cicli Mata in Raffa di Puegnago,

La BasiaHORSE RIDING

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0365 55 59 58; www.labasia.it; Via Predefitte 31, Puegnago del Garda; per hour €25)

At this rambling vineyard and riding school you can have a formal riding lesson or head out for a trot among the vines, before sampling wines and wild honey on the terrace. Between March and September you can also bed down in one of the family-sized apartments (from €345 to €550 per week).

4Sleeping & Eating

oCampeggio FornellaCAMPGROUND€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0365 6 22 94; www.fornella.it; Via Fornella 1, San Felice del Benaco; camping per person/car & tent €14/23.50; pas)

This luxury, four-star campground boasts a private beach, lagoon pool, Jacuzzi, children's club, boat centre, restaurant, bar and pizzeria. You pay considerably more for a lakeside pitch.

oAgriturismo i VegherAGRITURISMO€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0365 65 44 79; www.agriturismovegher.it; Via Mascontina 6, Puegnago del Garda; meals €25-35; h7-10pm Wed-Sat & Mon, noon-2.30pm Sun; pc)

Well worth the journey along unsurfaced roads and the long booking lead times (book at least a month in advance for holiday weekends, otherwise about two weeks), I Vegher is a place you'll want to arrive at hungry. Awaiting you are numerous and delicious antipasti courses, homemade pasta and the unrivalled meat secondi.

LAKE GARDA FOR KIDS

Lago di Garda features two top theme parks, which offer enough rides and stunt shows to thrill all day long.

GardalandAMUSEMENT PARK

( GOOGLE MAP ; %045 644 97 77; www.gardaland.it; Via Dema 4, Castelnuovo del Garda; adult/reduced €40.50/34; family €102-170; h10am-11pm mid-Jun–mid-Sep, 10am-6pm Apr–mid-Jun)

At Lake Garda's most touted attraction expect larger-than-life dinosaurs, pirate ships and roller coasters, and an aquarium with a glass tunnel where sharks swim overhead.

CanevaWorldAMUSEMENT PARK

( GOOGLE MAP ; %045 696 99 00; www.canevaworld.it; Località Fossalta 58)

CanevaWorld contains two theme parks. Aquaparadise ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.canevapark.it; Località Fossalta 58; adult/child €28/22; h10am‑7pm Jul & Aug, 10am-6pm mid-May–Jun & Sep) features plenty of exhilarating water slides, while Movieland Studios ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.movieland.it; Località Fossalta 58; adult/reduced €28/22) has stunt-packed action shows. Check the website for details.

Salò

Wedged between the lake and the foothills of Monte San Bartolomeo, Salò exudes an air of courtly grandeur, a legacy of its days as Garda’s capital when the Venetian Republic held sway over the lake. Devoid of any singular sights, Salò's lovely historic centre is lined with fine stile Liberty buildings and small, ordinary shops and restaurants. In 1901 an earthquake levelled many of its older palazzi, although a few fine examples remain: the Torre dell’Orologio (the ancient city gate), the late Gothic duomo (cathedral) with its Renaissance facade and the grand porticoed Palazzo della Magnifica Patria.

1Sights

oIsola del GardaISLAND

( GOOGLE MAP ; %328 6126943; www.isoladelgarda.com; tour incl boat ride €27.50-33.50; hApr-Oct)

It's not often you get to explore such a stunning private island, villa and grounds. Anchored just off Salò, this speck of land is crowned with impressive battlements, luxuriant formal gardens and a sumptuous neo-Gothic Venetian villa. Boats depart from towns including Salò, San Felice del Benaco, Gardone Riviera and Sirmione, but in typical Italian fashion they only leave each location one or two times a week, so plan ahead. See the website for the precise timetable.

Republic of SalòAREA

( GOOGLE MAP )

In 1943 Salò was named the capital of the Social Republic of Italy as part of Mussolini and Hitler's last efforts to organise Italian Fascism in the face of advancing American forces. This episode, known as the Republic of Salò, saw more than 16 public and private buildings in the town commandeered and turned into Mussolini's ministries and offices. Strolling between the sites is a surreal tour of the dictator's doomed mini-state. Look out for the multilingual plaques scattered around town.

4Sleeping & Eating

Hotel LaurinHISTORIC HOTEL€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0365 2 20 22; www.hotellaurinsalo.com; Viale Landi 9; d €155-300; paWs)

An art-nouveau treat with some real history behind it, the Hotel Laurin (formerly the Villa Simonini) was the Foreign Ministry during Mussolini's short-lived Republic. Downstairs salons retain wonderful details: frescoes by Bertolotti, intricate parquet floors, and wood inlay and wrought-iron volutes. Rooms are stylish and very well equipped.

oVilla ArcadioVILLA€€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0365 4 22 81; www.hotelvillaarcadio.it; Via Navelli 2; d €150-270, ste €300-450; paiWs#)

Perched above Salò and surrounded by olive groves, this converted convent is the essence of lakeside glamour. Enjoy the vista of glassy lake and misty mountains from the panoramic pool or retreat inside to frescoed rooms and ancient wood-beamed halls. There's a pricey restaurant on the premises and a programme of massage, yoga and beauty treatments to enjoy.

oAl CantinoneTRATTORIA€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0365 2 02 34; Piazza Sant'Antonio 19; meals €25-30; hnoon-2.30pm & 7-10pm Fri-Wed)

It's well worth heading just a few streets back from the waterfront to track down this friendly neighbourhood trattoria, home to gingham tablecloths, fabulous cooking smells and a clutch of regulars playing cards in the corner. The dishes draw on Salò's lake-meets-mountains setting.

WORTH A TRIP

ROMAN VILLA

Before the Clooneys and Versaces, wealthy Roman senators and poets had holiday homes on Italy's northern lakes. One survivor is Desenzano’s now-ruined Villa Romana ( GOOGLE MAP ; %030 914 35 47; Via Crocifisso 2; adult/reduced €2/1; h8.30am-7pm mid-Mar–mid-Oct, to 4.30pm mid-Oct–mid-Mar, closed Mon), which once extended over a hectare of prime lakeside land. Today, wooden walkways snake through the villa above a colourful collage of black, red, olive and orange mosaics, many depicting hunting, fishing and chariot riding, garlanded by fruits and flowers.

Gardone Riviera

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Once Lake Garda's most prestigious corner, Gardone is flush with belle-époque hotels, opulent villas and extravagant gardens. They tumble down the hillside from the historic centre, Gardone Sopra, complete with tiny chapel and piazza, to the cobbled lungolago (lake front) of Gardone Sotto, which is lined with cafes and other tourist paraphernalia. Although the haute glamour of Gardone’s 19th-century heyday is long gone it is a pleasant enough place for a stroll and drink, although you’ll probably want to base yourself elsewhere on the lake.

1Sights

oIl Vittoriale degli ItalianiMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0365 29 65 11; www.vittoriale.it; Piazza Vittoriale; gardens & museums adult/reduced €16/13; h9am-8pm Apr-Oct, to 5pm Tue-Sun Nov-Mar; p)

Poet, soldier, hypochondriac and proto-Fascist, Gabriele d'Annunzio (1863–1938) defies easy definition, and so does his estate. Bombastic, extravagant and unsettling, it's home to every architectural and decorative excess imaginable and is full of quirks that help shed light on the man. Visit and you'll take in a dimly lit, highly idiosyncratic villa, a war museum and tiered gardens complete with full-sized battleship.

oGiardino Botanico Fondazione André HellerGARDENS, SCULPTURE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %336 410877; www.hellergarden.com; Via Roma 2; adult/reduced €11/5; h9am-7pm Mar-Oct)

Gardone's heyday was due in large part to its mild climate, something which benefits the thousands of exotic blooms that fill artist André Heller's sculpture garden. Laid out in 1912 by Arturo Hruska, the garden is divided into pocket-sized climate zones, with tiny paths winding from central American plains to African savannah, via swathes of tulips and bamboo.

4Sleeping & Eating

oLocanda Agli AngeliB&B€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0365 2 09 91; www.agliangeli.biz; Via Dosso 7; s €80, d €90-180; pas)

It's a perfect hillside Lago di Garda bolt-hole: a beautifully restored, rustic-chic locanda (inn) with a pint-sized pool and a terrace dotted with armchairs. Ask for room 29 for a balcony with grandstand lake and hill views, but even the smaller bedrooms are full of charm.

8Information

Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0365 374 87 36; Corso della Repubblica 8; h9am-12.30pm & 2.15-6pm Mon-Sat)

The tourist office stocks information on activities.

DON'T MISS

THE GOOD OIL

Comincioli ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0365 65 11 41; www.comincioli.it; Via Roma 10, Puegnago del Garda; h9.30am-noon & 2.30-7pm Mon-Sat by reservation) produces some of Italy's best olive oils – its Numero Uno is legendary. The family has been harvesting olives for nearly 500 years. Get an insight into that complex process and indulge in a tutored tasting at their farm-vineyard deep in the Valtenesi hills.

Riva del Garda & Around

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Officially in the Alpine region of Trentino-Alto Adige, stunning and very popular Riva is encircled by towering rock faces and a looping landscaped lake front. Its appealing historic core is arranged around handsome Piazza III Novembre.

1Sights

oCascata del VaroneWATERFALL

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0464 52 14 21; www.cascata-varone.com; Via Cascata 12; adult/reduced €5.50/2.50; h9am-7pm May-Aug, to 6pm Apr & Sep, to 5pm Mar & Oct, 10am-5pm Jan & Feb)

This 100m waterfall thunders down sheer limestone cliffs through an immense, dripping gorge. Spray-soaked walkways snake 50m into the mountain beside the booming torrent, and ambling along them is like walking in a perpetual downpour. It’s well signposted 3km northwest of Riva's centre.

Museo Alto GardaMUSEUM

(La Rocca; GOOGLE MAP ; %0464 57 38 69; www.museoaltogarda.it; Piazza Cesare Battisti 3; adult/reduced €5/2.50; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun mid-Mar–May & Oct, daily Jun-Sep)

In Riva's compact medieval castle, the civic museum features local archaeology, frescoes from Roman Riva, documents and paintings. In light of Riva's much fought-over past, perhaps the most revealing exhibits are the antique maps dating from 1579 and 1667, and a 1774 Atlas Tyrolensis, which evocatively convey the area's shifting boundaries.

4Sleeping

oHotel Garni Villa MariaHOTEL€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0464 55 22 88; www.garnimaria.com; Viale dei Tigli; s €40-75, d €70-115; paW)

Beautifully designed, uber-modern rooms make this small family-run hotel a superb deal. Pristine bedrooms have a Scandinavian vibe, with all-white linens, sleek modern bathrooms and accents of orange and lime green. There's a tiny roof garden, and bedrooms with balconies offer impressive mountain views.

Villa AngelicaVILLA€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0464 55 67 91; www.villaangelicariva.com; Via San Giacomo 48; d €100-270, q €130-450; pW)

Located 1.6km outside Riva, the Angelica is classified as one of Lake Garda’s historic villas. Inside, the handsome apartments sleeping up to four seem almost too good to be true. Your hostess, Angelica, is happy to share the house’s history with you or you can simply wander the English-style garden like Franz Kafka did when he came to stay.

Lido PalaceHISTORIC HOTEL€€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0464 02 18 99; www.lido-palace.it; Viale Carducci 10; d/ste from €300/450; paiWs)

If you're flush with euros, Riva's captivating Lido Palace is the place to offload them. The exquisite building dates back to 1899 when it opened as a resort for holidaying Austrian royalty. Sensitive renovations mean modern bedrooms with muted colour schemes now sit in the grand Liberty-style villa, offering peerless views over lawns and lake.

5Eating

Cristallo CaffèGELATO€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0464 55 38 44; www.cristallogelateria.com; Piazza Catena 17; cones €2.50; h7am-1am, closed Nov-Mar)

More than 60 flavours of artisanal gelato are served up in this seasonal lakeside cafe, all of it crafted by the Pancieras, a Belluno gelato-producing family since 1892. It's also a top spot to sip a spritz (cocktail made with prosecco) while enjoying lake views.

oOsteria Le ServiteOSTERIA€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0464 55 74 11; www.leservite.com; Via Passirone 68, Arco; meals €30-45; h7-10.30pm Tue-Sun Apr-Sep, 7-10.30pm Wed-Sat Oct-Mar; pc)

Tucked away in Arco's wine-growing region, this elegant little osteria (tavern) serves dishes that are so seasonal the menu changes weekly. You might be eating mimosa gnocchi, tender salmerino (Arctic char) or organic ravioli with stracchino cheese.

oRestel de FerITALIAN€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0464 55 34 81; www.resteldefer.com; Via Restel de Fer 10; meals €40-60; hnoon-2.30pm & 7-11pm daily Jul & Aug, Thu-Tue Sep, Oct & Dec-Jun; pW)

Going to the restaurant at this family-run locanda (inn) feels like dropping by a friend's rustic-chic house: expect worn leather armchairs, copper cooking pots and glinting blue glass. The menu focuses on seasonal, local delicacies such as rabbit wrapped in smoked mountain ham, char with crayfish, and veal with Monte Baldo truffles.

8Information

Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0464 55 44 44; www.gardatrentino.it; Largo Medaglie d'Oro; h9am-7pm daily May-Sep, to 6pm Mon-Fri Oct-Apr)

Can advise on everything from climbing and paragliding to wine tasting and markets.

ACTIVITIES AROUND RIVA DEL GARDA

Riva makes a natural starting point for a host of activities, including hiking and biking trails around Monte Rocchetta (1575m), climbing in Arco and canyoning in the Val di Ledro. One of the town's top highlights is the easy 7km hike along La Strada del Ponale ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.ponale.eu).

Canyoning

Thanks to glacial meltwaters, which have worn smooth the limestone mountains surrounding Riva and the Val di Ledro, canyoning here is a fantastic experience offering lots of slides, jumps and abseiling. Both Canyon Adventures (%334 8698666; www.canyonadv.com; hMay-Oct) and Arco Mountain Guide (%330 567285; www.arcomountainguide.com) arrange trips to the Palvico and Rio Nero gorges in the Val di Ledro and the Vione canyon in Tignale.

Climbing

Surrounded by perfect waves of limestone, Arco is one of Europe’s most popular climbing destinations and is the location of the Rockmaster festival (%0464 47 25 67; www.rockmasterfestival.com; hlate-Aug) in late August.

With hundreds of routes of all grades to choose from, Arco climbs are divided between short, bolted, single-pitch sports routes and long, Dolomite-style climbs, some extending as much as 1400m. The 300m Zanzara is a world classic, a 7a+ climb directly above the Rockmaster competition wall.

For information on climbing courses and routes contact Arco Mountain Guide.

Lakefront Activities

Along the gorgeous landscaped lakefront gentle pursuits are possible such as swimming, sunbathing and cycling the 3km lakeside path to Torbole. The water here is safe for small children, and there are numerous play areas set back from the water. Like its neighbour Torbole, Riva is well known for windsurfing and has several schools that hire out equipment on Porfina Beach.

Fleets of operators provide equipment hire and tuition along the lakefronts in Riva and Torbole. One of the largest is Surfsegnana ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0464 50 59 63; www.surfsegnana.it; Foci del Sarca, Torbole), which operates from Lido di Torbole and Porfina Beach in Riva.

Malcesine

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With the lake lapping right up to the tables of its harbourside restaurants and the vast, snow-capped ridge of Monte Baldo looming behind, Malcesine is quintessential Lake Garda. Alas, its picturesque setting attracts thousands of holidaymakers and day trippers, who flood the town’s tiny streets. However, Malcesine hasn't completely sold its soul to tourism and locals still inhabit the tangle of alleyways, hanging their washing between houses in typical Italian fashion and filling the place at mealtimes with mouth-watering aromas.

2Activities

Funivia Malcesine–Monte BaldoCABLE CAR

( GOOGLE MAP ; %045 740 02 06; www.funiviedelbaldo.it; Via Navene Vecchia 12; adult/reduced return €22/15; h8am-7pm Apr-Sep, to 5pm Oct-Mar)

Jump aboard this cable car and glide 1760m above sea level for spectacular views – circular rotating cabins reveal the entire lake and surrounding mountains. For the first 400m the slopes are covered in oleanders, and olive and citrus trees – after that, oak and chestnut take over. Mountain-bike trails wind down from the summit.

Xtreme MalcesineCYCLING

( GOOGLE MAP ; %045 740 01 05; www.xtrememalcesine.com; Via Navene Vecchia 10; road/mountain bike per day €15/25; h8am-7pm)

Rents bikes from its shop at the base of the Monte Baldo cable car. There's also a bike cafe and the owners run mountain-bike tours into the hills.

Consorzio Olivicoltori di MalcesineFOOD

( GOOGLE MAP ; %045 740 12 86; www.oliomalcesine.it; Via Navene 21; h9am-12.30pm & 3.30-6.30pm Mon-Sat, 9am-1pm Sun, shorter hours winter)F

Olives harvested around Malcesine are milled into first-rate extra-virgin olive oil by this local consortium. You can sample the product here. Known as 'El nos Oio' (Our Oil), it's a gold-green liquid that's low in acidity and has a light, fruity, slightly sweet taste. Prices of the cold-pressed extra virgin DOP oil start at €8.50 for 0.25L.

5Eating

Speck StubeBARBECUE€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %045 740 11 77; www.speckstube.com; Via Navene Vecchia 139; meals €15-25; hnoon-11pm Mar-Oct; pc)

Catering for northern European tourists, the specialities at this family-friendly place 2.5km north of Malcesine are wood-roast chickens, sausages and pork on the bone. Help yourself to hearty portions and mugs of beer at trestle tables beneath the olive trees, while the kids let off steam in the play park.

oVecchia MalcesineGASTRONOMY€€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %045 740 04 69; www.vecchiamalcesine.com; Via Pisort 6; meals €55-110; hnoon-2pm & 7-10pm Thu-Tue)

The lake views from the terrace at hillside Vecchia Malcesine do their best to upstage the food. But the Michelin-starred menu wins; its exquisitely presented, creative dishes might include trout with horseradish, smoked caviar and white chocolate, or risotto with lake fish, apple and raspberry.

8Information

Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %045 740 00 44; www.tourism.verona.it; Via Gardesana 238; h9.30am-12.30pm & 3-6pm Mon-Sat, 9.30am-12.30pm Sun)

Malcesine's tourist office is set back from the lake beside the bus station, on Via Gardesana, the main road through town.

Punta San Vigilio

Picturesque Punta San Viglio is a popular destination for beach-goers.

1Sights

Punta San VigilioBEACH

( GOOGLE MAP ; adult/reduced incl Parco Baia delle Sirene €12/6; p)

The leafy headland of Punta San Vigilio curls out into the lake 3km north of Garda. An avenue of cypress trees leads from the car park towards a gorgeous crescent of bay backed by olive groves. There the Parco Baia delle Sirene ( GOOGLE MAP ; %045 725 58 84; www.parcobaiadellesirene.it; Punta San Vigilio; adult/reduced incl Punta San Vigilio €12/6, cheaper after 4.30pm; h10am-7pm Apr & May, 9.30am-8pm Jun-Aug; p) offers sun loungers beneath the trees; there's also a children's play area.

4Sleeping & Eating

oLocanda San VigilioBOUTIQUE HOTEL€€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %045 725 66 88; www.punta-sanvigilio.it; Punta San Vigilio; d €270-375, ste €440-900; pais)

This enchanting 16th-century locanda (inn) feels just like a luxurious English manor house: discreet, understated and effortlessly elegant. Dark wood, stone floors and plush furnishings ensure an old-world-meets-new luxury feel. The excellent restaurant (lunch/dinner €40/55) sits right beside the water, offering memorable food and views.

6Drinking & Nightlife

oTaverna San VigilioCAFE€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %045 725 51 90; Punta San Vigilio; meals €20-30; h10am-5.30pm; p)

With an olive-tree-shaded garden and tables strung out along a tiny crab-claw harbour, the Taverna San Vigilio is one of the most atmospheric bars on the lake. Nibbles include lobster, veal and prosciutto crudo (cured ham).

Bardolino

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Gathered around a tiny harbour, prosperous Bardolino is a town in love with the grape. More than 70 vineyards and wine cellars grace the gentle hills that roll east from Bardolino's shores, many within DOC and the even stricter DOCG quality boundaries. They produce an impressive array of pink Chiaretto, ruby classico, dry superiore and young novello. In October, the popular Festa dell’Uva e del Vino celebrates the region’s exceptional food and wine.

1Sights & Activities

Pieve di San ZenoCHURCH

( GOOGLE MAP ; Corte San Zeno)

Flee the gelato and Aperol brigade for a pilgrimage to this ancient miniature church, concealed in a picturesquely shabby courtyard north of the main road. Dating from the 9th century, it's one of the finest pieces of Carolingian architecture to have survived in northern Italy, and its almost windowless form and moody interior give visitors a good impression of how early Christian worship must have felt. The original painted decoration is still visible in places.

Museo del VinoMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %045 622 83 31; www.museodelvino.it; Via Costabella 9; h9am-12.30pm & 2.30-7pm mid-Mar–Sep, hours vary Oct–mid-Mar)F

Just off the main lake road, the Museo del Vino is set within the Zeni winery and rarely has a museum smelt this good. Rich scents waft around displays of wicker grape baskets, cooper's tools, drying racks and gigantic timber grape presses. Tastings of Zeni's red, white and rosé wines are free, or pay to sample pricier vintages, including barrel-aged Amarone.

Zeni WineryWINE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %045 721 00 22; www.zeni.it; Via Costabella 9; h2.30-7pm daily, 9am-12.30pm Sat & Sun)

Zeni has been crafting quality wines from Bardolino's morainic hills since 1870. Get an insight into that process with an hour-long winery tour that ends with a mini-tasting in the cantina (cellar). Reservations aren't necessary. There's a wine museum on site.

4Sleeping & Eating

Corte San LucaAPARTMENT€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %345 8212906; www.cortesanluca.com; Piazza Porta San Giovanni 15; d €90, 4-person apt from €200; paW)

Someone with a flair for design has created 11 smart central apartments – expect suspended furniture, moulded chairs and glass-topped tables. With their fully kitted-out kitchens, laundries and 32in TVs, the apartments are a particularly smart home away from home. There's a minimum stay of a week in July and August.

oIl Giardino delle EsperidiOSTERIA€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %045 621 04 77; Via Goffredo Mameli 1; meals €35-50; h7-10pm Mon & Wed-Fri, noon-2.30pm & 7-10pm Sat & Sun)

Holidaying gourmets should head for this intimate little osteria, where sourcing local delicacies is a labour of love for its sommelier-owner. The intensely flavoured baked truffles with parmigiano reggiano (Parmesan) are legendary, and the highly seasonal menu may feature rarities such as red grouse or bull meat marinaded in Garda olive oil.

6Drinking & Nightlife

La Bottega del VinoWINE BAR

( GOOGLE MAP ; %348 6041800; Piazza Matteotti 46; h10.30am-2pm & 5-10pm Sun-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat)

To experience some authentic Bardolino atmosphere head to this no-nonsense bar in the centre of town. Inside, a stream of lively banter passes between locals and staff beside walls lined with bottles four deep.

8Information

Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %045 721 00 78; www.tourism.verona.it; Piazzale Aldo Moro 5; h9am-noon & 3-6pm Mon-Sat, 10am-2pm Sun)

Operates a hotel booking service and can advise on the surrounding wine region.

Italian Lakes

Lago di Como

ALEXANDRE ROTENBERG/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Hemmed in by wooded hills, the shores of Lago di Como are dotted with villas.

Lago di Gardia

DANNY IACOB/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

The lake’s prettiest village, Sirmione, has hot springs, Roman ruins and a castle.

Varenna

RICHARD SHEPPARD/STOCKIMO/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©

Pastel-coloured houses rise steeply up the hillside in Varenna on Lago di Como’s eastern shore.

Lago Maggiore

ELESI/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Isola Bella is the highlight of Lago Maggiore, with spectacular terraced gardens and a baroque palace.

The Po Plain

Stretching from the foot of the pre-Alps to low-lying, lake-fringed plains, this is a region that’s overlooked by many but is itching to spring a surprise. In the north, edged by mountains and encircled by defensive walls, you’ll find Bergamo, an ancient hill town rich in architecture and art. Nearby, Brescia showcases gutsy cuisine and impressive fragments of its Roman past. In unique Cremona, home to Antonio Stradivari, discover a vibrant musical heritage and old-town vibe. And in the far east comes captivating Mantua, surrounded by lakes, enriched by art-packed palaces and ready to delight with the architectural harmony of its interlocking squares.

Bergamo

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This eastern Lombard city offers a wealth of art and medieval Renaissance and baroque architecture, a privileged position overlooking the southern plains, breathtaking views and some fine dining. Bergamo is one of northern Italy's most beguiling cities.

The city's defining feature is a double identity. The ancient hilltop Città Alta (Upper Town) is a tangle of tiny medieval streets, embraced by 5km of Venetian walls. It lords it over the largely (but not entirely) modern Lower Town (Città Bassa). A funicular connects the two.

Bergamo

1Top Sights

1Accademia CarraraF2

2Palazzo del PodestàB2

3Torre del CampanoneB2

1Sights

4Basilica di Santa Maria MaggioreB2

5Cappella ColleoniB2

6Cattedrale di BergamoB2

7Chiesa del Santo SpiritoG4

8Chiesa di San BernardinoF3

9Chiesa di San Michele al Pozzo BiancoD2

10Galleria d'Arte Moderna e ContemporaneaG2

11Palazzo della RagioneB2

4Sleeping

12Albergo Il SoleB2

13Hotel Piazza VecchiaB1

5Eating

14Colleoni & Dell'AngeloB2

15Il FornaioB1

16NoiG2

17Osteria della BirraA1

18PolentoneC2

1Sights

The Upper Town's beating heart is the cafe-clad Piazza Vecchia, lined by elegant architecture that is a testament in stone and brick to Bergamo's long and colourful history. Le Corbusier apparently described it as the 'most beautiful square in Europe'.

oTorre del CampanoneTOWER

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %035 24 71 16; Piazza Vecchia; adult/reduced €3/free; h9.30am-6pm Tue-Fri, to 8pm Sat & Sun Apr-Oct, reduced hours winter)

Bergamo's colossal, square-based Torre del Campanone soars 52m above the city. It still tolls a bell at 10pm, the legacy of an old curfew. Taking the lift to the top of the tower reveals sweeping views down onto the town, up to the pre-Alps and across to the Lombard plains.

oPalazzo del PodestàMUSEUM

(Museo Storico dell'Età Veneta; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %035 24 71 16; www.palazzodelpodesta.it; Piazza Vecchia; adult/reduced €7/5; h9.30am-1pm & 2.30-6pm Tue-Sun)

On the northwest side of Piazza Vecchia, the fresco-dappled Palazzo del Podestà was traditionally home to Venice's representative in Bergamo. Today, the medieval building houses a small imaginative museum with audiovisual and interactive displays that tell the story of Bergamo's Venetian age. Admission also includes access to the Torre del Campanone, with superb views over Bergamo.

oAccademia CarraraGALLERY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %035 23 43 96; www.lacarrara.it; Piazza Carrara 82; adult/reduced €10/8; h10am-7pm May-Nov, 9.30am-5.30pm Dec-Apr)

Just east of the old city walls is one of Italy's great art repositories. Founded in 1780, it contains an exceptional range of Italian masters. Raphael's San Sebastiano is a highlight, and other artists represented include Botticelli, Canaletto, Mantegna and Titian.

Cattedrale di BergamoCATHEDRAL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %035 21 02 23; www.cattedraledibergamo.it; Piazza del Duomo; h7.30am-noon & 3-6.30pm Mon-Fri, 7am-6.30pm Sat & Sun)

Roman remains were discovered during renovations of Bergamo's baroque cathedral, with an interior dating to the 17th century. A rather squat building, it has a brilliant white facade (completed in the 19th century). Among the relics in a side chapel is the one-time coffin of the beatified Pope John XXII. The church also contains paintings by Moroni and Tiepolo.

Palazzo della RagioneHISTORIC BUILDING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Piazza Vecchia)

The imposing arches and columns of the Palazzo della Ragione sit at the southern end of Piazza Vecchia. Built in the 12th century, it bears the lion of St Mark – a reminder of Venice's long reign here. The animal is actually an early 20th-century replica of the 15th-century original, which was torn down when Napoleon took over in 1797. Note the sun clock in the pavement beneath the arches and the curious Romanesque and Gothic animals and busts decorating the pillars.

Basilica di Santa Maria MaggioreBASILICA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Piazza del Duomo; h9am-12.30pm & 2.30-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-6pm Sat & Sun Apr-Oct, shorter hours Nov-Mar)

Bergamo's most striking church, begun in 1137, is quite a mishmash of styles. To its whirl of Romanesque apses (on which some external frescoes remain visible), Gothic additions were added. Influences seem to come from afar, with dual-colour banding (black and white, and rose and white) typical of Tuscany and an interesting trompe l'œil pattern on part of the facade. Highlights include wooden marquetry designed by Lorenzo Lotto and the funerary tomb of the great Bergamo-born composer Gaetano Donizetti.

Cappella ColleoniCHAPEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Piazza del Duomo; h9am-12.30pm & 2-6.30pm Mar-Oct, 9am-12.30pm & 2-4.30pm Tue-Sun Nov-Feb)

The Cappella Colleoni was built between 1472 and 1476 as a magnificent mausoleum-cum-chapel for the Bergamese mercenary commander Bartolomeo Colleoni (c 1400–75), who led Venice's armies in campaigns across northern Italy. He lies buried inside in a magnificent tomb.

Galleria d'Arte Moderna e ContemporaneaGALLERY

(GAMeC; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %035 27 02 72; www.gamec.it; Via San Tomaso 53; Permanent/temporary exhibition free/€6; h10am-1pm & 3-6pm Wed-Mon)

The modern works by Italian artists displayed here include pieces by Giacomo Balla, Giorgio Morandi, Giorgio de Chirico and Filippo de Pisis. A contribution from Vassily Kandinsky lends an international touch.

IN SEARCH OF LORENZO LOTTO

One of the great names of the late Venetian Renaissance, Lorenzo Lotto worked for 12 years in and around Bergamo from 1513. Today, three of his works remain in situ in three churches scattered about the city. Seeing them is largely a matter of luck, as finding these churches open is a hit-and-miss affair. Just off Via Porta Dipinta at the eastern end of the Città Alta, the diminutive Chiesa di San Michele al Pozzo (St Michael at the Well; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Via Porta Dipinta; h9am-noon & 2-6pm) is home to a chapel filled with a cycle of paintings known as the Storie della vergine (Stories of the Virgin Mother), starting with her birth and culminating with the scene of her visiting Elisabeth (her cousin and soon-to-be mother of St John the Baptist). In two churches in the Città Bassa, the Chiesa del Santo Spirito (Church of the Holy Spirit; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Via Tasso 100; h8-11am & 3-6pm Thu-Tue) and Chiesa di San Bernardino ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Via Pignolo 59; h9.30-10.30am Sun), you can observe how Lotto treats the same subject in quite different fashion in altarpieces dedicated to the Madonna in trono e santi (The Madonna Enthroned with Saints). The latter is done with great flair and freedom, full of vivid colour, while the former seems more subdued.

4Sleeping

Albergo Il SoleHOTEL€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %035 21 82 38; www.ilsolebergamo.com; Via Colleoni 1; s/d/tr €65/85/110; pW)

Bright rugs and throws bring bursts of the modern to this traditional, family-run albergo (hotel) in the heart of the Città Alta; cheerfully painted walls and picture windows add to the quaint feel. The best room is 107, where the balcony offers mountain glimpses and roof-top views.

Hotel Piazza VecchiaHOTEL€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %035 25 31 79; www.hotelpiazzavecchia.it; Via Colleoni 3; s €135, d €172-300; aiW)

The perfect Città Alta bolt-hole, this 14th-century townhouse oozes atmosphere, from the honey-coloured beams and exposed stone to the tasteful art on the walls. Rooms have parquet floors and bathrooms that gleam with chrome; the deluxe ones have a lounge and a balcony with mountain views.

oDa VittorioBOUTIQUE HOTEL€€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %035 68 10 24; www.davittorio.com; Via Cantalupa 17, Brusaporto; s €300-350, d €400-450; paW)

Da Vittorio is not only a noteworthy gourmet hideout 9km east of town, but also offers 10 quality suites in its low-slung country estate. Each of the generous rooms enjoys its own sumptuous decor, with beautifully woven fabrics and marble bathroom. Indulge in a tasting menu breakfast, with a series of miniportions of various sweet and savoury options.

5Eating

PolentoneITALIAN€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %348 8046021; Piazza Mercato delle Scarpe 1; polentas €6-9; h11.30am-3.30pm & 6.30-10.30pm Mon-Fri, 11.30am-1am Sat, to 10pm Sun; v)

Styling itself as Italy's first polenta takeaway, Polentone serves up steaming bowls of polenta in the sauce of your choice, including wild boar or vegetarian. Choose between gialla (simple corn polenta) or taragna (with Taleggio cheese and butter).

Il FornaioPIZZA, BAKERY€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Via Colleoni 1; pizza slices around €3-4; h8am-9pm)

Join the crowds that mill around this local favourite for coffee that packs a punch and pizza slices that drip with delicious ingredients: spinach laced with creamy mozzarella or gorgonzola studded with walnuts. Take it away or compete for a table upstairs.

oNoiITALIAN€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %035 23 77 50; www.noi-restaurant.it; Via Alberto Pitentino 6; meals €35-45; h7.30pm-midnight Mon, 12.30-2.30pm & 7.30pm-midnight Tue-Sat; W)

Thirty-something chef Tommaso Spagnolo learned his craft at celebrated restaurants in London and New York (including the top-rated Eleven Madison Park) before returning to his hometown to open this creative osteria in 2016. The seasonally driven menu features beautifully prepared dishes, including a tender grilled octopus with sweet potato and radicchio, sashimi with horseradish, and the juiciest ribeye for miles around.

Osteria della BirraOSTERIA€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %035 24 24 40; www.elavbrewery.com; Piazza Mascheroni 1; meals €25-30; hnoon-3pm & 6pm-2am Mon-Fri, noon-2am Sat & Sun)

Being the official osteria (tavern) of craft brewers, this convivial eatery ensures there’s a top selection on tap; the tangy Indie Ale tastes particularly fine. Squeeze in at a tiny table or lounge in the courtyard and chow down on platters piled high with local meats, or polenta stuffed with Taleggio (cheese) and porcini mushrooms.

Colleoni & Dell'AngeloITALIAN€€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %035 23 25 96; www.colleonidellangelo.com; Piazza Vecchia 7; meals €55-65; hnoon-2.30pm & 7-10.30pm Tue-Sun)

Grand Piazza Vecchia provides the ideal backdrop to savour truly top-class creative cuisine. Sit at an outside table in summer or opt for the noble 15th-century interior; either way expect to encounter dishes such as risotto with white truffle, or venison medallions with chestnut purée and pumpkin.

oDa VittorioGASTRONOMY€€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %035 68 10 24; www.davittorio.com; Via Cantalupa 17, Brusaporto; set menu lunch €70, dinner €180-280; h12.30-2.30pm & 7-10pm Thu-Tue Sep-Jul)

Bergamo's acclaimed Vittorio is set in a country house 9km east of town and is up there with the best restaurants in Italy, thanks to the celebrated talents of Bergamo-born chef Enrico Cerea. The guiding thought behind the cuisine is the subtle use of the freshest possible seasonal products to create local dishes with inventive flair.

8Information

Airport Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %035 32 04 02; www.visitbergamo.net; arrivals hall; h8am-8pm Mon-Sat, 10am-6pm Sun)

Useful first point of contact in the arrivals hall.

Città Alta Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %035 24 22 26; www.visitbergamo.net; Via Gombito 13; h9am-5.30pm)

Helpful multilingual office in the heart of the Upper Town.

8Getting There & Away

Air

Orio al SerioAIRPORT

( GOOGLE MAP ; %035 32 63 23; www.sacbo.it)

Low-cost carriers link Bergamo airport with a wide range of European cities. It has direct transport links to Milan.

Bus

Bus StationBUS STATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %800 139392; www.bergamotrasporti.it)

Located just off Piazza Marconi. SAB, part of the Arriva group, operates regular services to Brescia, Mantua and the lakes.

SABBUS

( GOOGLE MAP ; %035 28 90 11; www.arriva.it)

Part of the Arriva group, operates regular services from Bergamo to Brescia, Mantua and the lakes.

Train

Train StationTRAIN STATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %035 24 79 50; Piazza Marconi)

Services to Milan (€5.50, one hour), Lecco (€3.80, 40 minutes) and Brescia (€4.80, one hour, with connections for Lake Garda and Venice).

8Getting Around

To/From the Airport

ATB ( GOOGLE MAP ; %035 23 60 26; www.atb.bergamo.it) buses to/from Orio al Serio airport depart every 20 minutes from Bergamo bus and train stations (€2.30, 15 minutes). Direct buses also connect the airport with Milan and Brescia.

Public Transport

ATB bus 1 connects the train station with the funicular ( GOOGLE MAP ; %035 23 60 26; www.atb.bergamo.it; h7.30am-11.45pm) to the Upper Town and Colle Aperto (going the other way not all buses stop right at the station but at the Porta Nuova stop). From Colle Aperto, either bus 21 or a funicular ( GOOGLE MAP ) continues uphill to San Vigilio. Buy tickets, valid for 75 minutes' travel on buses, for €1.30 from machines at the train and funicular stations or at newspaper stands.

There's a taxi rank ( GOOGLE MAP ) at the train station.

Brescia

Pop 196,800

Brescia's core takes the form of a fascinating old town, which more than compensates for the city's rather unappealing urban sprawl. The old town's narrow streets are home to some of the most important Roman ruins in Lombardy, and an extraordinary circular Romanesque church. While many visitors stop in only for a day, there's much to see here, from a sprawling collection of 2000-year-old architecture to the fresco-filled corridors of a medieval monastery.

1Sights & Activities

oSanta GiuliaMUSEUM, MONASTERY

(Museo della Città; GOOGLE MAP ; %030 297 78 33; www.bresciamusei.com; Via dei Musei 81; adult/reduced €10/5.50, combined ticket incl Tempio Capitolino €15/10; h9.30am-5.30pm Tue-Sun Oct–mid-Jun, 10.30am-7pm Tue-Sun mid-Jun–Sep)

The jumbled Monastero di Santa Giulia and Basilica di San Salvatore is Brescia's most intriguing sight. Inside this rambling church and convent complex, the Museo della Città houses collections that run the gamut from prehistory to the age of Venetian dominance. Highlights include Roman mosaics and medieval jewels.

Tempio CapitolinoRUINS

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.bresciamusei.com; Via dei Musei; adult/reduced €8/6, combined ticket incl Santa Giulia €15/10; h9.30am-5.30pm Wed-Sun Oct–mid-Jun, 10.30am-7pm mid-Jun–Sep)

Brescia's most impressive Roman relic is this temple built by Emperor Vespasian in AD 73. Today, six Corinthian columns stand before a series of cells. A ticket gets you admission to the temple chambers, where you can see original coloured marble floors, frescoed walls, altars in Botticino limestone and religious statues.

Teatro RomanoRUINS

(Roman Theatre; GOOGLE MAP ; off Via dei Musei; adult/reduced €8/6; h9:30am-5.30pm Wed-Sun Oct–mid-Jun, 10.30am-7pm mid-Jun–Sep)

At the height of the Roman era the theatre of Brescia (then Brixia) could seat 15,000 spectators. You can see the somewhat overgrown surviving ruins from outside the gate off cobbled Vicolo del Fontanon. To walk around inside, buy a ticket to the Tempio Capitolino.

Duomo VecchioCHURCH

(Old Cathedral; GOOGLE MAP ; Piazza Paolo VI; h9am-noon & 3-6pm Tue-Sat, 9-10.45am & 3-7pm Sun)

The most compelling of all Brescia's religious monuments is the 11th-century Duomo Vecchio, a rare example of a circular-plan Romanesque basilica, built over a 6th-century church. The inside is surmounted by a dome borne by eight sturdy vaults resting on thick pillars.

Duomo NuovoCATHEDRAL

(New Cathedral; GOOGLE MAP ; Piazza Paolo VI; h7.30am-noon & 4-7pm Mon-Sat, 8am-1pm & 4-7pm Sun)

The Duomo Nuovo was begun in 1604 but wasn't finished until 1825. Repeated alterations over the centuries make it a bit of a mishmash; the lower part of the facade is baroque; the upper part showcases the classical flourishes of the later 1700s.

Museo Mille MigliaMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %030 336 56 31; www.museomillemiglia.it; Viale della Rimembranza 3; adult/reduced €8/6; h10am-6pm)

The original Mille Miglia (Thousand Miles) ran between 1927 and 1957 and was one of Italy's most legendary endurance car races – it started in Brescia and took some 16 hours to complete. The race's colourful museum is loaded with some of the greatest cars to cross the finish line, as well as old-style petrol pumps and archived race footage.

Brescia UndergroundWALKING

(%349 0998697; www.bresciaunderground.com; tour per person from €10)

For a different view of Lombardy, sign up for a tour with Brescia Underground. True to name, this outfit takes you into the earth, on a ramble through the underground canals and waterways that still course beneath Brescia and its environs. Excursions range from 30-minute highlight tours to 2½-hour walks – some of which happen outside the city centre. Call or email for upcoming tours and meeting points.

4Sleeping & Eating

Risotto, beef dishes and lumache alla Bresciana (snails cooked with Parmesan and fresh spinach) are common in Brescia.

oAlbergo OrologioHOTEL€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %030 375 54 11; www.albergoorologio.it; Via Beccaria 17; s €74-90, d €84-104; aiW)

Just opposite its namesake clock tower and just steps away from central Piazza Paolo VI, the medieval Albergo Orologio boasts fragrant rooms dotted with antiques. Bedrooms feature terracotta floors, soft gold, brown and olive furnishings, and snazzy modern bathrooms.

La VineriaITALIAN€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %030 28 05 43; www.lavineriabrescia.it; Via X Giornate 4; meals €28-40; hnoon-3pm & 7-11pm Tue-Sat, noon-3pm Sun)

Near the Piazza della Loggia, La Vineria serves up delectable regional cuisine at al fresco tables in the portico or in the classy downstairs dining room with vaulted ceilings. Try dishes like chestnut gnocchi with creamy Bagoss cheese, leeks and walnuts, or polenta prepared three different ways. True to name, 'the winery' has good wine selections.

8Information

Main Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %030 240 03 57; www.turismobrescia.it; Via Trieste 1; h9am-7pm)

Brescia's main tourist office, on the edge of Piazza Paolo VI, can advise on exploring the city's churches and Roman sites.

There's another, smaller tourist office at the train station ( GOOGLE MAP ; %030 306 12 40; www.turismobrescia.it; Piazzale Stazione; h9am-7pm).

8Getting There & Around

Bus StationBUS

( GOOGLE MAP ; %030 288 99 11; Via Solferino)

Near the main train station.

Buses operated by SIA ( GOOGLE MAP ; %030 288 99 11; www.arriva.it) serve destinations throughout the province including Desenzano del Garda and Mantua. Some services leave from another station off Viale della Stazione.

Train StationTRAIN STATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %030 4 41 08; Viale della Stazione 7)

Brescia is on the Milan–Venice line, with regular services to Milan (€7.30 to €20, 45 minutes to 1¼ hours) and Verona (€6.75, 40 minutes). There are also secondary lines to Cremona (€5.50, one hour), Bergamo (€4.80, one hour) and Parma (€7.65, two hours).

A smart new metro (one ride €1.40) links the train station with Piazza della Vittoria (one stop) in the heart of the old town.

Bike StationBICYCLE HIRE

(Il Parcheggio Biciclette; GOOGLE MAP ; %030 306 11 00; Piazzale Stazione; h7am-7.30pm Mon-Fri, 7.30am-1.40pm Sat)

You can hire a bicycle (€1 for two hours, €4 a day) from the bike storage building in front of the train station on Piazzale Stazione.

Mantua

Pop 46,670

As serene as the three lakes it sits beside, Mantua (Mantova) is home to sumptuous ducal palaces and a string of atmospheric cobbled squares. Settled by the Etruscans in the 10th century, it has long been prosperous. The Latin poet Virgil was born just outside the modern town in 70 BC, Shakespeare's Romeo heard of Juliet's death here and Verdi set his tragic, 19th-century opera, Rigoletto, in its melancholy fog-bound streets.

Mantua

1Top Sights

1Palazzo DucaleF3

1Sights

2ArengarioE4

3Basilica di Sant'AndreaD4

4Palazzo del PodestàE4

5Piazza BrolettoE4

6Rotonda di San LorenzoE4

7Teatro BibienaF4

2Activities, Courses & Tours

8Motonavi AndesF2

9Visit MantuaE3

4Sleeping

10ArmellinoE3

11C'a delle ErbeE4

12La Zucca GuesthouseD4

5Eating

13FragolettaF4

14Il CignoC3

15Osteria delle Quattro TetteD3

6Drinking & Nightlife

16Bar CaravattiE4

1Sights

oPalazzo DucalePALACE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %041 241 18 97; www.ducalemantova.org; Piazza Sordello 40; adult/reduced €12/7.50; h8.15am-7.15pm Tue-Sat, from 1.45pm Sun)

For more than 300 years the enormous Palazzo Ducale was the seat of the Gonzaga – a family of wealthy horse breeders who rose to power in the 14th century to become one of Italy's leading Renaissance families. Their 500-room, 35,000-sq-metre palace is vast; a visit today winds through 40 of the finest chambers. Along with works by Morone and Rubens, the highlight is the witty mid-15th-century fresco by Mantegna in the Camera degli Sposi (Bridal Chamber).

oPalazzo TePALACE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0376 36 58 86; www.palazzote.it; Viale Te 13; adult/reduced €12/8; h1-6.30pm Mon, 9am-6.30pm Tue-Sun)

Palazzo Te was where Frederico II Gonzaga escaped for love trysts with his mistress Isabella Boschetti, and it's decorated in playboy style with stunning frescoes, playful motifs and encoded symbols. A Renaissance pleasure-dome, it is the finest work of star architect Giulio Romano, whose sumptuous Mannerist scheme fills the palace with fanciful flights of imagination.

Rotonda di San LorenzoCHURCH

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Piazza delle Erbe; h10am-1pm & 2.30-6.30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-7pm Sat & Sun)F

The weather-worn 11th-century, Lombard Romanesque Rotonda di San Lorenzo is sunk below the level of the square, its red-brick walls still decorated with the shadowy remains of 12th- and 13th-century frescoes. The two-level church was 'rediscovered' in 1907 when houses were being demolished on Piazza delle Erbe to make way for a road. This is thought to be the erstwhile site of a Roman temple dedicated to Venus – today's church is still a Dominican place of worship.

Teatro BibienaTHEATRE

(Teatro Scientifico; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0376 28 82 08; Via dell'Accademia 47; adult/reduced €2/1.20; h10am-1pm & 3-6pm Tue-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat & Sun)

If ever a theatre were set to upstage the actors, it's the 18th-century Teatro Bibiena. Dimly lit and festooned with plush velvet, its highly unusual, intimate bell-shaped design sees four storeys of ornate, stucco balconies arranged around curving walls. It was specifically intended to allow its patrons to be seen – balconies even fill the wall behind the stage. You can wander round at will during the day or come to an evening performance to see the building come alive.

Just a few weeks after it opened in 1769 the theatre hosted a concert by a 14-year-old prodigy – one Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart.

Basilica di Sant'AndreaBASILICA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Piazza Mantegna; h8am-noon & 3-7pm)

This towering basilica safeguards the golden vessels said to hold earth soaked by the blood of Christ. Longinus, the Roman soldier who speared Christ on the cross, is said to have scooped up the earth and buried it in Mantua after leaving Palestine. Today, these containers rest beneath a marble octagon in front of the altar and are paraded around Mantua in a grand procession on Good Friday.

Piazza BrolettoPIAZZA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP )

Once home to the city's highest official and adorned with a coat of arms, the Palazzo del Podestà ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Piazza delle Erbe) is located in Piazza Broletto. The square also features a white stone shrine dedicated to Virgil, depicting the poet sitting at his desk. The brick arch to the left, the Arengario ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Via Roberto Ardigò), bears evidence of medieval Mantuan punishments. Prisoners were suspended from the iron rings in the ceiling and the ropes pulled taught, a torture known as squassi di corda.

2Activities

La RigolaCYCLING

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0335 605 49 58; Via Trieste 5; per day from €10; h9.30am-12.30pm & 2.30-7.30pm)

Rent bikes by the day to explore the surrounding lakes, the Po river and the Parco del Mincio (www.parcodelmincio.it). The shortest route (a couple of hours) takes cyclists around Lago Superiore to the Santuario di Santa Maria delle Grazie, while longer routes meander south to the abbey of San Benedetto Po and the Gonzaga town of Sabbioneta.

TTours

oVisit MantuaWALKING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %347 4022020; www.visitmantua.it; tours per 2 people 90min/5hr €100/300)

Get the insider view of Renaissance dukes and duchesses – what they ate for breakfast, how they conspired at court and the wardrobe crises of the day – with Lorenzo Bonoldi’s fascinating conversational tours of Mantua’s highlight palaces. Tours leave from Piazza Sordello 40.

Motonavi AndesBOATING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0376 32 28 75; www.motonaviandes.it; Via San Giorgio 2)

Motonavi Andes organises frequent boat tours of Mantua's lakes (starting from €9 for 1½ hours) as well as other occasional cruises along the Po and to the Parco del Mincio.

4Sleeping

oLa Zucca GuesthouseB&B€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %392 382 7503; www.lazucca.mn.it; Via Spagnoli 10; s €45-50, d €65-80; iW)

Top deal in the city centre, this three-room B&B up an ancient staircase off Via Spagnoli is pure delight. Rooms flutter in bright fabrics, beds are comfortable and pleasant aromas fill the air throughout. Breakfast is self-service and laid out all day, and the wi-fi is speedy. The only downside is the shared bathroom. Prior booking essential.

oArmellinoB&B€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %346 3148060; www.bebarmellino.it; Via Cavour 67; s €60-65, d €75-85; iW)

Enjoy a touch of ducal splendour in Antonella and Massimo's fabulous palazzo. Grand rooms are furnished with 18th-century antiques and retain their original wooden floors, fireplaces and ceiling frescoes. Not all bedrooms have a bathroom, but this place has the feel of an exclusive private apartment rather than a B&B.

oC'a delle ErbeB&B€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0376 22 61 61; www.cadelleerbe.it; Via Broletto 24; d €120-150; aW)

In this gorgeous 16th-century townhouse historic features have undergone a minimalist remodelling: exposed stone walls surround pared-down furniture; whitewashed beams cohabit with lavish bathrooms and modern art. The pick of the bedrooms must be the one with the balcony overlooking the iconic Piazza delle Erbe, a candidate for the town's best room.

HOLIDAY AFLOAT

Peek out of your porthole at banks of wildflowers and cormorants sunning themselves on branches as you glide (sustainably) down the Mincio and Po rivers all the way to Venice. Barging hotel Avemaria Boat offers four-day or week-long cultural itineraries exploring the peaceful nooks and crannies of the delta.

5Eating & Drinking

With its pumpkin ravioli and apple relish, spiced-pork risotto and cinnamon-flavoured agnoli (ravioli stuffed with capon, cinnamon and cloves), Mantua has a marvellous culinary tradition dating back to the Renaissance when sweet-and-sour flavours were de rigeur.

Osteria delle Quattro TetteOSTERIA€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0376 32 94 78; Vicolo Nazione 4; meals €10-15; h12.30-2.30pm Mon-Sat)

Queue then grab a pew at rough-hewn wooden tables beneath unadorned barrel-vaulted ceilings and order up pumpkin pancakes, pike in sweet salsa or risotto alla pilota (risotto with spiced sausage). It's spartan but extremely well priced, which is why half of Mantua is in here at lunchtime. Lingering after your meal is not the done thing.

FragolettaLOMBARD€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0376 32 33 00; www.fragoletta.it; Piazza Arche 5; meals €35; hnoon-3pm & 8pm-midnight Tue-Sun)

Wooden chairs scrape against the tiled floor as diners eagerly tuck into Slow Food–accredited culatello di Zibello (lard) at this friendly local trattoria. Other Mantuan specialities feature, such as risotto alla pilota (rice studded with sausage meat) and pumpkin ravioli with melted butter and sage.

oIl CignoMODERN ITALIAN€€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0376 32 71 01; Piazza d'Arco 1; meals €60; h12.30-1.45pm & 7.30-9.45pm Wed-Sun)

The building is as beautiful as the food: a lemon-yellow facade dotted with faded olive-green shutters. Inside, Mantua's gourmets graze on delicately steamed risotto with spring greens, poached cod with polenta or gamey guinea fowl with spicy Mantuan mostarda.

Bar CaravattiBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0376 32 78 26; Portici Broletto 16; h7am-8.30pm Sun-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat)

All of Mantua passes through Caravatti at some point during the day for coffee, spritz or Signor Caravatti’s 19th-century aperitivo of aromatic bitters and wine.

WORTH A TRIP

DAL PESCATORE RESTAURANT

Petals of egg pasta frame slices of guinea fowl caramelised in honey saffron; silky tortellini are stuffed to bursting with pumpkin, nutmeg, cinnamon and candied mostarda (fruit in a sweet-mustard sauce). You practically eat the Mantuan countryside in Nadia Santini’s internationally acclaimed restaurant, Dal Pescatore.

What’s even more surprising is that the triple-Michelin-starred chef is entirely self-taught and has only ever cooked here, in what was originally the modest trattoria of her husband’s family.

The restaurant is located 40km west of Mantua in a green glade beside the Oglio river. Nearby, 9 Muse B&B ( GOOGLE MAP ; %335 8007601; www.9muse.it; Via Giordano Bruno 42a, Canneto sull'Oglio; s €45-55, d €73-90; pai) provides elegant and charming accommodation.

8Information

Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0376 43 24 32; www.turismo.mantova.it; Piazza Mantegna 6; h9am-5pm Sun-Thu, to 6pm Fri & Sat)

8Getting There & Away

APAMBUS

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0376 23 03 39; www.apam.it)

Bus StationBUS STATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; Piazza Don Leoni)

Train StationTRAIN STATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; Piazza Don Leoni)

Cremona

Pop 72,000

A wealthy, independent city-state for centuries, Cremona boasts some fine medieval architecture. The Piazza del Comune, the heart of the city, is where Cremona's historic beauty is concentrated. It's a wonderful example of how the religious and secular affairs of cities were divided neatly in two. The city is best known around the world, however, for its violin-making traditions.

1Sights

Piazza del ComunePIAZZA

( GOOGLE MAP )

This beautiful, pedestrian-only piazza is considered one of the best-preserved medieval squares in all Italy. To maintain divisions between Church and state, buildings linked to the Church were erected on the eastern side and those linked to secular affairs were constructed on the west.

Cattedrale di CremonaCATHEDRAL

(Duomo; GOOGLE MAP ; www.cattedraledicremona.it; Piazza del Comune; h10.30am-noon & 3.30-5pm Mon-Sat, noon-12.30pm & 3-5pm Sun)

Cremona’s cathedral started out as a Romanesque basilica, but the simplicity of that style later gave way to an extravagance of designs. The interior frescoes are utterly overwhelming, with the Storie di Cristo (Stories of Christ) by Pordenone perhaps the highlights. One of the chapels contains what is said to be a thorn from Jesus' crown of thorns.

TorrazzoTOWER

( GOOGLE MAP ; Piazza del Comune; adult/reduced €5/4, incl Baptistry €6/5; h10am-1pm & 2.30-6pm, closed Mon winter)

Cremona's 111m-tall torrazzo (bell tower, although 'torazzo' translates literally as ‘great, fat tower’) soars above the city's central square. A total of 502 steps wind up to the top. The effort is more than repaid with marvellous views across the city.

Chiesa di Sant'AgostinoCHURCH

( GOOGLE MAP ; Piazza Sant'Agostino; h8am-noon & 2.30-6pm Mon-Sat, noon-12.30pm & 3.30-6pm Sun)

Once inside the Chiesa di Sant'Agostino, head for the third chapel on the right, the Cappella Cavalcabò, which features a stunning late-Gothic fresco cycle by Bonifacio Bembo and his assistants. One of the altars is graced with a 1494 painting by Pietro Perugino, Madonna in trono e santi (The Madonna Enthroned with Saints).

zFestivals & Events

Festival di Cremona Claudio MonteverdiMUSIC

(www.teatroponchielli.it; hMay)

A month-long series of concerts centred on Monteverdi and other baroque-era composers, held in the Teatro Amilcare Ponchielli ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0372 02 20 01; www.teatroponchielli.it; Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 52; hbox office 10.30am-1.30pm & 4.30-7.30pm Mon-Fri).

Stradivari FestivalMUSIC

(www.stradivarifestival.it; hmid-Sep–mid-Oct)

Focusing on music for string instruments. Held between mid-September and mid-October, it's organised by the Museo del Violino ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0372 08 08 09; www.museodelviolino.org; Piazza Marconi 5; adult/reduced €10/7; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun).

Festa del TorroneFOOD & DRINK

(www.festadeltorronecremona.it; hNov)

A weekend full of exhibitions, performances and tastings dedicated to that toffee-tough Cremona-made Christmas sweet: torrone (nougat).

CREMONA'S VIOLINS

It was in Cremona that Antonio Stradivari lovingly put together his first Stradivarius violins, helping establish a tradition that continues today. Other great violin-making dynasties that started here include the Amati and Guarneri families.

Some 100 violin-making workshops occupy the streets around Piazza del Comune but very few accept casual visitors. To visit a workshop, you generally need to be looking to buy a violin, but the Consorcio Liutai Antonio Stradivari ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0372 46 35 03; www.cremonaliuteria.it; Piazza Stradivari 1; h11am-1pm & 4-6.30pm Tue-Fri), which represents the workshops, can make appointments for visits. Count on €60 to €80 per group for a one-hour visit.

The Triennale Internazionale degli Strumenti ad Arco (International Stringed Instrument Expo; www.entetriennale.com) is held in Cremona every third year in September/October; if you're in town in 2018 or 2021, don't miss it.

If you really want to learn about the intricacies of Cremona's musical legacy, the best place to go is the state-of-the-art Museo del Violino. Here, you'll learn about the evolution of the violin, and how Cremona came to be known for its world-class luthiers (builders or repairers of stringed instruments).

To hear Cremona's violins in action, the season at the 19th-century Teatro Amilcare Ponchielli runs from October to June.

4Sleeping

Hotel ContinentalHOTEL€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0372 43 41 41; www.hotelcontinentalcremona.it; Piazza della Libertà 26; s/d from €67/95; paW)

A short stroll outside the historic centre, the Hotel Continental has modern, carpeted rooms set in neutral tones. An attractive lobby, a rooftop bar and a main floor restaurant add to the value. The single rooms are on the small side – but still good value for solo travellers.

L’ArchettoHOSTEL€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0372 80 77 55; www.ostellocremona.com; Via Brescia 9; dm/s/d €30/45/60; aiW)

Cost-conscious musicians love this central, fairly luxurious hostel where cheerful, modern bedrooms and four-bed dorms are pristine and thoughtfully furnished. Sadly, the limited reception hours (8am to 10am and 5pm to 9pm) – and no option to leave luggage – might be inconvenient.

Dellearti Design HotelDESIGN HOTEL€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0372 2 31 31; www.dellearti.com; Via Bonomelli 8; s €90-135, d €135-210; aW)

A firm favourite with fashion-minded guests, Cremona's hippest hotel is a high-tech blend of glass, concrete and steel. Stylish bedrooms feature clean lines, bold colours and artful lighting. There are also some whimsical flourishes: undulating gold, corrugated corridors, and a bowl of liquorice allsorts on the front desk.

5Eating

Hosteria '700LOMBARD€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0372 3 61 75; www.hosteria700.com; Piazza Gallina 1; meals €33-40; hnoon-2.45pm Wed-Mon, 7-11pm Wed-Sun)

Behind the dilapidated facade lurks a sparkling gem. Some of the vaulted rooms come with ceiling frescoes, dark timber tables come with ancient wooden chairs, and the hearty Lombard cuisine comes at a refreshingly competitive cost.

Il ViolinoITALIAN€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0372 46 10 10; www.ilviolino.it; Via Vescovo Sicardo 3; meals €40-50; h12.30-2pm daily & 7.30-10pm Mon-Sat)

Il Violino is Cremona's timeless class option. Smooth service is key to this elegant spot, where you might start with one of a number of risotto options or the tortelli alle erbette al burro spumoso (stuffed pasta in herbs and frothy hot butter), then move on to roast meat dishes and fresh fish of the day with polenta.

KandooJAPANESE€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0372 2 17 75; Piazza Luigi Cadorna 11; meals €30-45; h11.30am-2.30pm & 6-11pm Tue-Sun)

For a break from risottos and pastas, this elegant Japanese spot makes a fine destination. Amid vaulted brick ceilings and flickering candles, Kandoo serves beautifully prepared sashimi platters, mouth-watering sushi rolls, crispy tempura and satisfying bowls of miso soup. For a broad selection, opt for a barca (boat-shaped platter), with a mix of sushi, sashimi and nigiri (for one/two persons €20/40).

8Information

Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0372 40 70 81; www.turismocremona.it; Piazza del Comune 5; h9.30am-1pm & 1.30-4.30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1pm & 2-5pm Sat & Sun)

Helpful staff in an office across from the cathedral.

8Getting There & Away

Train StationTRAIN STATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; Via Dante)

Trains to Brescia (€5.50, one hour), Mantua (€6.10, 40 to 80 minutes), Milan (€7.30, one to two hours) and Piacenza (€4.80, 40 to 80 minutes) run roughly hourly.

Design

Better living by design: what could be more Italian? From the cup that holds your morning espresso to your bedside light, there’s a designer responsible and almost everyone in Milan will know their name. Design here is a way of life.

Modern Italian Design

The roots of Italian design stretch back to early-20th-century Milan, with the development of the Fiera trade fair, the rebuild of the Rinascente department store (Giorgio Armani started there as window dresser), the founding of architectural and design magazines Domus and Casabella and the opening of the Triennale in 1947. Where elaborate French rococo and ornate Austrian art nouveau had captured the imagination of a genteel prewar Europe, the dynamic deco style of Italian futurism was a perfect partner for the industrial revolution and Fascist philosophies.

Fascist propaganda co-opted the radical, neoclassical streamlining that futurism inspired and Italy implemented these ideas into architecture and design. Modern factories had to aid the war effort and Fascist tendencies towards centralised control boosted Italian manufacturing. Through an inherent eye for purity of line, modern Italian design found beauty in balance and symmetry. This refreshing lack of detail appealed to a fiercely democratising war-torn Europe where minimalism and utility came to represent the very essence of modernity.

Cassina furniture | A. ASTES/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©

‘From the Spoon to the City’

Milan’s philosopher-architects and designers – Giò Ponti, Vico Magistretti, Gae Aulenti, Achille Castiglioni, Ettore Sottsass and Piero Fornasetti – saw their postwar mission as not only rebuilding the bombed city but redesigning the urban environment. A defining statement came from Milanese architect Ernesto Rogers, who said he wished to design ‘everything, from the spoon to the city’.

Far from being mere intellectual theorists, this cadre of architect-designers benefited from a unique proximity to artisanal businesses located in Brianza province, north of Milan. This industrial district grew from rural society and thus retained many specialist peasant craft skills. While these production houses remained true to the craft aspect of their work, they were able to use modern sales and production techniques via the central marketplace of the Triennale. This direct connection between craftsman, producer and marketplace allowed for a happy symbiosis between creativity and commercialism, ultimately fine-tuning Italian design to achieve the modernist ideal of creating beautiful, useful objects.

Alessi corkscrew | STEPHEN FLEMING/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©

Design Classics

Alessi Crafted kitchen utensils designed by big-name architect-designers.

Vespa 1946 Piaggio mini-motor scooter that transformed the lives of urbanites.

Cassina ‘Masters’ collection furniture by Le Corbusier, Frank Lloyd Wright and Giò Ponti.

Alfa Romeo This legendary roadster, launched in 1910, is the most famous product from Milanese petrolheads.

1964 Alfa Romeo Giulietta Spider | MASSIMO CAMPANARI/SHUTTERSTOCK ©