Sardinia

Why Go?

As DH Lawrence so succinctly put it: ‘Sardinia is different’. Indeed, where else but on this 365-village, four-million-sheep island could you travel from shimmering bays to near-alpine forests, granite peaks to snow-white beaches, rolling vineyards to one-time bandit towns – all in the space of a day? Sardinia baffles with its unique prehistory at 7000 nuraghic sites, dazzles with its kaleidoscopic blue waters, and whets appetites with island treats like spit-roasted suckling pig, sea urchins, crumbly pecorino cheese, Vermentino whites and Cannonau reds.

Over millennia islanders have carved out a unique identity, cuisine, culture and language. And whether you're swooning over the mega-yachts in the Costa Smeralda's fjord-like bays or kicking back at a rustic agriturismo (farm stay accommodation), you can't help but appreciate this island's love of the good life. Earthy and glamorous, adventurous and blissfully relaxed, Sardinia delights in being that little bit different.

When to Go

Feb Pre-Lenten shenanigans, from carnival madness to medieval jousting at Oristano's Sa Sartiglia.
Mar-May Spring wildflowers, Easter parades, and hiking without the heat and crowds.
Jun-Aug Sun-kissed beaches, open-air festivals and folksy fun at Nuoro's Sagra del Redentore.

Best Places to Eat

A Trattoria Lo Romani

A La Pola

A Dolceacqua

A Il Portico

A Locanda di Corte

Best Places to Sleep

A Casa Solotti

A B&B Domus de Janas

A Angedras Hotel

A Hotel Nautilus

A B&B Lu Pastruccialeddu

A Agriturismo Codula Fuili

Sardinia Highlights

1 Gola Su Gorropu Walking on the wild side in Sardinia's most spectacular gorge

2 Costa Verde Feeling the lure of the sea on the windswept beaches of Sardinia's southwest coast

3 Il Castello Wandering the medieval backstreets of Cagliari's rocky citadel

4 Costa Smeralda Rubbing bronzed shoulders with the rich and super-famous

5 Nuraghe Su Nuraxi Boning up on prehistory at Sardinia's sole World Heritage Site

6 Golfo di Orosei Dropping anchor in brilliant aquamarine waters off the island's east coast

7 Alghero Roaming the cobbled alleyways of the medieval centre and soaking up the Spanish vibe

8 SS125 Taking a serpentine drive through the Supramonte for captivating views of the mountains and the Med

9 Parco Nazionale dell'Arcipelago di La Maddalena Gazing across to Corsica on an island-hopping circuit through northeast Sardinia's national park

a Grotta di Nettuno Exploring a fairy-tale forest of stalactites and stalagmites

History

Little is known about Sardinia's prehistory, but the first islanders probably arrived from mainland Italy around 350,000 BC. By the neolithic period (8000 BC to 3000 BC), tribal communities were thriving in north-central Sardinia. Their Bronze Age descendants, known as the nuraghic people, dominated the island until the Phoenicians arrived around 850 BC. The Carthaginians came next, followed by the Romans, who took over in the 3rd century BC.

In the Middle Ages, the island was divided into four independent giudicati (kingdoms), but by the 13th century the Pisans and Genoese were battling for control. They in turn were toppled by the Catalan-Aragonese from northern Spain, who also had to subdue bitter Sard resistance led by Eleonora d'Arborea (1340-1404), Sardinia's very own Joan of Arc.

Sardinia became Spanish territory after the unification of the Spanish kingdoms in 1479, and today there remains a tangible Hispanic feel to towns such as Alghero and Iglesias. In the ensuing centuries, Sardinia suffered as Spain's power crumbled; in 1720 the Italian Savoys took possession of the island. After Italian unity in 1861, Sardinia found itself under the boot of Rome.

In the aftermath of WWII, efforts were made to drag the island into the modern era. In 1946 a huge project was launched to rid the island of malaria and in 1948 Sardinia was granted its own autonomous regional parliament.

Coastal tourism arrived in the 1960s and has since become a mainstay of the Sardinian economy. Environmentalists breathed a sigh of relief in 2008 when NATO withdrew from the Maddalena islands after a 35-year sojourn.

8Getting There & Away

Air

Flights from Italian and European cities serve Sardinia’s three main airports:

Cagliari Elmas Airport

Aeroporto di Olbia Costa Smeralda

Alghero Airport

Airlines include Alitalia (www.alitalia.it), Meridiana (www.meridiana.it), easyJet (www.easyjet.com) and Ryanair (www.ryanair.com). Note that there's a marked increase in flights to and from Sardinia in summer, with many seasonal flights operating between June and September.

Boat

Sardinia is accessible by ferry from ports in Spain, France and mainland Italy. The arrival points in Sardinia are Olbia, Golfo Aranci, Santa Teresa di Gallura and Porto Torres in the north; Arbatax on the east coast; and Cagliari in the south. Services are most frequent between mid-June and mid-September. Book ahead at www.traghettiweb.it or www.aferry.co.uk.

Ferry Operators

Corsica Ferries, Sardinia FerriesFERRY

(%0495 32 95 95; www.corsica-ferries.co.uk)

The main crossing from Corsica to Sardinia is between Bonifacio and Santa Teresa di Gallura on the northern coast, though ferries also depart from Bastia, Ajaccio and Propriano.

Grandi Navi VelociFERRY

(%010 209 45 91; www.gnv.it)

To Olbia and Porto Torres from Genoa.

La MéridionaleFERRY

(%in France 491 991 50; www.lameridionale.fr)

Operates ferries from Marseille to Porto Torres (via Corsica). Crossing time is around 10 hours. Tickets for a reclinable seat cost roughly €44 and for a small car €98 in high season.

Moby LinesFERRY

(%+49 (0)611-14020; www.mobylines.com)

Operates four daily crossings from Bonifacio on Corsica to Santa Teresa di Gallura on Sardinia's northern tip between mid-April and late September. High-season tickets cost from about €22 per person or €30 with a small car.

TirreniaFERRY

(%199 30 30 40; www.tirrenia.it)

To Cagliari from Civitavecchia, Naples and Palermo; to Olbia from Civitavecchia and Genoa; to Arbatax from Civitavecchia and Genoa; to Porto Torres from Genoa.

8Getting Around

Bus

Azienda Regionale Sarda Trasporti (ARST; %800 865042; www.arst.sardegna.it) is Sardinia’s main bus company running most local and long-distance services.

Car & Motorcycle

Sardinia is best explored by road. There are rental agencies at all airports, along with downtown branches in Cagliari and other cities.

Train

Trenitalia (%892021; www.trenitalia.com) services link Cagliari with Oristano, Sassari, Porto Torres, Olbia and Golfo Aranci. Services are slow but generally reliable. Slow ARST trains serve Sassari, Alghero and Nuoro. Between mid-June and early September, ARST also operates a scenic tourist train service, the Trenino Verde (%070 265 76 12; www.treninoverde.com; hmid-Jun–Sep).

WORTH A TRIP

SARDINIA'S BACKCOUNTRY BY TRAIN

If you're not in a rush, one of the best ways of exploring Sardinia's rugged interior is by taking the narrow-gauge Trenino Verde. There are six available routes: Mandas–Isili–Sorgono, Mandas–Seui, Arbatax–Gairo, Macomer–Bosa, Sassari–Tempio–Palau and Palau–Tempio.

Cagliari

%070 / Pop 154,460

Forget flying: the best way to arrive in Sardinia’s historic capital is by sea, the city rising in a helter-skelter of golden-hued palazzi, domes and facades up to the rocky centrepiece, Il Castello. Although Tunisia is closer than Rome, Cagliari is the most Italian of Sardinia’s cities. Vespas buzz down tree-fringed boulevards and locals hang out at busy cafes tucked under arcades in the seafront Marina district.

Like many Italian cities, Cagliari wears its history on its sleeve and everywhere you go you come across traces of its rich past: ancient Roman ruins, museums filled with prehistoric artefacts, centuries-old churches and elegant palazzi.

Edging east of town brings you to Poetto beach, the hub of summer life with its limpid blue waters and upbeat party scene.

Cagliari

1Top Sights

1Cattedrale di Santa MariaD3

2Il CastelloD3

3Museo Archeologico NazionaleD2

1Sights

4Bastione di Saint RemyD5

5Chiesa di San MicheleB3

6Giardino Sotto Le MureD4

7Museo del Tesoro e Area Archeologica di Sant'EulaliaC5

8Orto BotanicoA2

9Piazza YenneC4

10Pinacoteca NazionaleD1

11Statue of Carlo FeliceC4

12Torre dell'ElefanteC4

4Sleeping

13Hotel MiramareC6

14Il CagliareseC6

15Maison SavoiaC5

16Marina di CastelloB5

17Residenza KastrumD3

5Eating

18Dal CorsaroC6

19La PolaC5

20Luigi PomataC6

21Martinelli'sC5

22Pizzeria NansenA3

23Ristorante AmmentosB4

6Drinking & Nightlife

24Caffè Libarium NostrumC3

25Hop CornerC5

26InuA4

27TiffanyC4

3Entertainment

28Box Office TicketsD6

7Shopping

29DurkeC5

30Enoteca Biondi 1959D6

1Sights

oIl CastelloAREA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP )

This hilltop citadel is Cagliari’s most iconic image, its domes, towers and palazzi, once home to the city’s aristocracy, rising above the sturdy ramparts built by the Pisans and Aragonese. Inside the battlements, the old medieval city reveals itself like Pandora’s box. The university, cathedral, museums and Pisan palaces are wedged into a jigsaw of narrow high-walled alleys. Sleepy though it may seem, the area harbours a number of boutiques, bars and cafes popular with visitors, students and hipsters.

oMuseo Archeologico NazionaleMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %070 6051 8245; http://museoarcheocagliari.beniculturali.it; Piazza Arsenale; adult/reduced €5/2.50, incl Pinacoteca Nazionale €7/3.50; h9am-8pm Tue-Sun)

Of the four museums at the Cittadella dei Musei ( GOOGLE MAP ), this is the undoubted star. Sardinia’s premier archaeological museum showcases artefacts spanning thousands of years of history, from the early Neolithic, through the Bronze and Iron Ages to the Phoenician and Roman eras. Highlights include a series of colossal figures known as the Giganti di Monte Prama and a superb collection of bronzetti (bronze figurines), which, in the absence of any written records, are a vital source of information about Sardinia’s mysterious nuraghic culture.

oCattedrale di Santa MariaCATHEDRAL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %070 864 93 88; www.duomodicagliari.it; Piazza Palazzo 4; h8am-noon & 4-8pm Mon-Sat, 8am-1pm & 4.30-8.30pm Sun)

Cagliari’s graceful 13th-century cathedral stands proudly on Piazza Palazzo. Except for the square-based bell tower, little remains of the original Gothic structure: the clean Pisan-Romanesque facade is a 20th-century imitation, added between 1933 and 1938. Inside, the once-Gothic church has all but disappeared beneath a rich icing of baroque decor, the result of a radical late-17th-century makeover. Bright frescoes adorn the ceilings, and the side chapels spill over with exuberant sculptural whirls.

Torre dell’ElefanteTOWER

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.beniculturalicagliari.it; Via Santa Croce, cnr Via Università; adult/reduced €3/2; h10am-7pm summer, 9am-5pm winter)

One of only two Pisan towers still standing, the Torre dell’Elefante was built in 1307 as a defence against the threatening Aragonese. Named after the sculpted elephant by the vicious-looking portcullis, the 42m-high tower became something of a horror show, thanks to the severed heads the city's Spanish rulers used to adorn it with. The crenellated storey was added in 1852 and used as a prison for political detainees. Climb to the top for far-reaching views over the city’s rooftops to the sea.

Bastione di Saint RemyVIEWPOINT

( MAP GOOGLE MAP )

This vast neoclassical structure, comprising a gallery space, monumental stairway and panoramic terrace, was built into the city's medieval walls between 1899 and 1902. The highlight is the elegant Umberto I terrace, which commands sweeping views over Cagliari’s jumbled rooftops to the sea and distant mountains. To reach the terrace, which was recently reopened after a two-year restoration, you can try the stairway (closed at the time of research) on Piazza Costituzione or take the elevator from the Giardino Sotto Le Mure ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Viale Regina Elena; h7am-9pm winter, longer hours summer).

Pinacoteca NazionaleGALLERY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %070 65 69 91; www.pinacoteca.cagliari.beniculturali.it; Piazza Arsenale; adult/reduced €3/1.50, incl Museo Archeologico Nazionale €7/3.50; h9am-8pm Tue-Sun)

Cagliari's principal gallery showcases a prized collection of 15th- to 17th-century art. Many of the best works are retablos (grand altarpieces), painted by Catalan and Genoese artists. Of those by known Sardinian painters, the four 16th-century works by Pietro Cavaro, father of the so-called Stampace school and arguably Sardinia’s most important artist, are outstanding. They include a moving Deposizione (Deposition) and portraits of St Peter, St Paul and St Augustine.

Orto BotanicoGARDENS

(Botanic Gardens; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %070 675 35 22; www.ccb-sardegna.it; Viale Sant'Ignazio da Laconi 11; adult/reduced €4/2; h9am-6pm Tue-Sun summer, to 2pm winter)

Established in 1858, the Orto Botanico is one of Italy’s most famous botanical gardens. Today it extends over 5 hectares and nurtures 2000 species of flora. Leafy arches lead to trickling fountains and gardens bristling with palm trees, cacti and ficus trees with huge snaking roots.

Galleria Comunale d'ArteGALLERY

( GOOGLE MAP ; %070 677 75 98; www.museicivicicagliari.it; Giardini Pubblici; adult/reduced €6/2.50; h10am-9pm Wed-Mon summer, to 6pm winter)

Housed in a neoclassical villa in the Giardini Pubblici (Public Gardens) north of the Castello, this terrific gallery focuses on modern and contemporary art. Works by many of Sardinia’s top artists are on show, alongside paintings and sculptures from the Collezione Ingrao, a formidable collection of 20th-century Italian art.

Chiesa di San MicheleCHURCH

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Via Ospedale 2; h8-11am & 7-8.30pm Mon-Sat, 9am-noon & 7-9pm Sun)

Although consecrated in 1538, this Jesuit church is best known for its lavish 18th-century decor, considered the finest example of baroque styling in Sardinia. The spectacle starts outside with the ebullient triple-arched facade and continues through the vast colonnaded atrium into the magnificent octagonal interior. Here six heavily decorated chapels radiate out from the centre, capped by a grand, brightly frescoed dome. Also of note is the sacristy, with its vivid frescoes and intricate inlaid wood.

oSantuario & Basilica di Nostra Signora di BonariaCHURCH

( GOOGLE MAP ; %070 30 17 47; Piazza Bonaria 2; donations welcome; h6.30-11.45am & 4.30-8pm summer, 6.30-11.45am & 4-7pm winter)

Crowning the Bonaria hill, around 1km southeast of Via Roma, this religious complex is a hugely popular pilgrimage site. Devotees come from all over the world to visit the 14th-century Gothic church sanctuary and pray to Nostra Signora di Bonaria, a statue of the Virgin Mary and Christ that supposedly saved a ship’s crew during a storm. To the right of the sanctuary, the towering basilica still acts as a landmark to returning sailors.

Piazza YennePIAZZA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP )

The focal point of the Marina district, and indeed of central Cagliari, is Piazza Yenne. The small square is adorned with a statue of King Carlo Felice to mark the beginning of the SS131 cross-island highway, the project for which the monarch is best remembered. On summer nights, the piazza heaves as a young crowd flocks to its bars, gelaterie and pavement cafes.

Museo del Tesoro e Area Archeologica di Sant'EulaliaMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %070 66 37 24; www.mutseu.org; Vico del Collegio 2; adult/reduced €5/2.50; h10am-1pm & 4-7pm Tue-Sun)

In the heart of the Marina district, this museum contains a rich collection of religious art, as well as an archaeological area beneath the adjacent Chiesa di Sant’ Eulalia. The main drawcard is a 13m section of excavated Roman road (constructed between the 1st and 2nd centuries AD), which archaeologists think would have connected with the nearby port.

WORTH A TRIP

SAND IN THE CITY

An easy bus ride from the centre, Cagliari's fabulous Poetto beach ( GOOGLE MAP ) extends for 7km beyond the green Promontorio di Sant'Elia, nicknamed the Sella del Diavola (Devil's Saddle). In summer much of the city's youth decamps here to sunbathe and party in the restaurants and bars that line the sand. Water sports are big and you can hire canoes at the beach clubs. To get to the beach, take bus PF or PQ from Piazza Matteotti.

zFestivals & Events

Cagliari puts on a good show for Carnevale, and during the Easter Holy Week, when hooded processions pass by its historic churches. The city's headline event is the Festa di Sant'Efisio (www.festadisantefisio.com; h1-4 May), dating back to 1657, during which Cagliari’s patron saint gets paraded through the streets on a bullock-drawn carriage.

4Sleeping

Il CagliareseB&B€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %339 6544083; www.ilcagliarese.com; Via Vittorio Porcile 19; s €45-60, d €60-75; aiW)

Bang in the heart of the Marina district, this snug B&B is a real find. It has three immaculate rooms, each with homey touches such as embroidered fabrics and carved wooden furnishings. Breakfast is scrumptious, and Mauro, your welcoming host, bends over backwards to please.

Residenza KastrumB&B€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %348 0012280; www.kastrum.eu; Via Nicolò Canelles 78; s €45-60, d €55-85, q €120-160; aW)

Escape the hurly-burly of the centre at this cosy B&B in the hilltop Castello district. Its simple white rooms are comfortable enough, with parquet floors and classic dark wood furniture, but what sets it apart are the memorable views from the small rooftop terrace. The quad rooms are ideal for families.

Marina di CastelloB&B€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %335 8125881; www.bedandbreakfastcagliaricity.it; Via Roma 75a; d €75-120; aW)

Sabrina makes you feel instantly at ease at this B&B on Cagliari's main seafront boulevard. There's a clean, modern feel about the place with rooms tastefully done out in silver, bronze and gold, while patches of exposed brick and artistic flourishes add a boutique touch. Up top, the roof terrace overlooking the marina is a panoramic spot for a summer sundowner.

Maison SavoiaGUESTHOUSE€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %334 2088478, 070 67 81 81; www.maisonsavoia.it; Piazza Savoia 2; s €60-70, d €80-90; aW)

This discreet guesthouse is brilliantly placed right in the heart of the action. It's surrounded by restaurants, bars and shops, yet its decently sized rooms are quiet. Decor is old school with parquet floors, framed prints and heavy wood furniture. Note that breakfast is not always included in your room rate.

oHotel NautilusHOTEL€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %070 37 00 91; www.hotelnautiluspoetto.com; Viale Poetto 158; d €150-210, tr €170-225; aW)

Nothing shouts holiday as much as the sight of sea and sand on your doorstep. This gleaming three-star hotel is one of the best on the Poetto beachfront, offering summery blue and white rooms, balconies and sea views. Rates plummet in the low season, meaning there are some real off-season bargains to be had.

oHotel MiramareBOUTIQUE HOTEL€€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %070 66 40 21; www.hotelmiramarecagliari.it; Via Roma 59; r €195-500; aW)

A fashion magazine spread waiting to happen, this boutique four-star exudes effortless chic with its artistic interiors and classy rooms. Located on sea-facing Via Roma, it has individually styled rooms whose decor ranges from pared-down contemporary cool to full-on belle-époque glamour, with crimson walls, zebra-print chairs, pop art and art-deco furniture.

5Eating

It’s not difficult to eat well in Cagliari. The city offers everything from classy fine-dining restaurants to humble neighbourhood trattorias, pizzerias, bars and takeaways. Marina is chock-full of places, some of which are obviously touristy but many that are not and are popular with locals. Other good eat streets include Via Sassari and Corso Vittorio Emanuele.

Pizzeria NansenPIZZA€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %070 667 03 35; Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 269; pizzas €5-10; h11.30am-2.30pm & 6.30-11.30pm Tue-Sun)

For a slice of delizioso pizza and a cool bottle of Ichnusa (Sardinian beer), head to this super-friendly pizzeria. The pizzas, served ready cut on a tray, are finger-lickingly good with light fluffy bases and flavour-packed toppings, and the setting – high stools, paper napkins and framed Roma football shirts (!) – is suitably relaxed.

oLa PolaSEAFOOD€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %070 65 06 04; Vico Barcellona 10; meals €30; h7-11pm Mon-Sat, plus 1-3pm Sat & Sun)

There are many seafood restaurants in the Marina district but few bring in the crowds like this local favourite. To look at, it's nothing out of the ordinary with its murals and orange and yellow walls, but once the food starts arriving you'll appreciate why it's so often packed: multi-dish starters, luxurious lobster mains, beautifully seared tuna.

oLuigi PomataSEAFOOD€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %070 67 20 58; www.luigipomata.com; Viale Regina Margherita 14; meals restaurant €40-50, bistrot €25-30; h1-3pm & 8-11pm Mon-Sat)

There's always a buzz at chef Luigi Pomata's minimalist seafood restaurant, with pared-down decor and chefs skilfully preparing super-fresh sushi. For a more casual eating experience, try the Pomata Bistrot, beneath the main restaurant, where you can dine on dishes such as stuffed squid with broccoli cream in a tranquil, relaxed setting.

Ristorante AmmentosSARDINIAN€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %070 65 10 75; Via Sassari 120; fixed-price menu €15-30; h1-3pm & 8-11pm Wed-Mon)

Dine on authentic southern Sardinian fare in rustic surrounds at this traditional old-school trattoria. Malloreddus (typical Sardinan gnocchi) with gorgonzola cheese is a delicious lead to succulent meat dishes such as wild pork and sausages.

Martinelli’sITALIAN€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %070 65 42 20; www.martinellis.it; Via Principe Amedeo 18; meals from €35; h8.30pm-midnight Mon-Sat)

Simplicity is the ethos underpinning this intimate, subtly lit bistro in the Marina district. Service is friendly without being overbearing, and the menu plays up seasonal, winningly fresh seafood along the lines of tagliolini (flat spaghetti) with octopus ink and sea bass cooked in Vernaccia wine.

Dal CorsaroRISTORANTE€€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %070 66 43 18; www.stefanodeidda.it; Viale Regina Margherita 28; fixed-price menus €70-80; h7.45-11pm Tue-Sun)

One of only two Michelin-starred restaurants in Sardinia, Dal Corsaro has long been a bastion of high-end culinary creativity. Calling the shots is chef Stefano Deidda whose artistic brand of cuisine marries technical brilliance with a passion for seasonal Sardinian ingredients. Typical of his style is his maialino da latte, topinambur e aglio (roast pork with Jerusalem artichoke and garlic). Bookings required.

6Drinking & Nightlife

oCucina eatWINE BAR

( GOOGLE MAP ; %070 099 10 98; www.shopcucina.it; Piazza Gallileo Galilei 1; h10.30am-11.30pm Mon-Sat)

A bookshop, a bar, a bistro? Cucina eat is pretty much all these things with its central bar and ceiling-high shelves stocked with wines, olive oils, cookbooks and kitchen gadgets, all of which are available to buy. Cool and relaxed, it's a fine spot to spend an evening over a bottle of wine and a light meal (around €20 to €25).

oCaffè Libarium NostrumBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %346 5220212; Via Santa Croce 33; h7.30am-2am Tue-Sun)

Offering some of the best views in town, this modish Castello bar has panoramic seating on top of the city’s medieval ramparts. If the weather’s being difficult, make for the brick-lined interior and order yourself an Alligator, a formidable cocktail of Calvados and Drambuie created in honour of the hero of Massimo Carlotto’s novels.

InuWINE BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %070 667 04 14; www.inusardinianwinebar.it; Via Sassari 50; h7pm-1am Tue-Sun)

Get versed in Sardinian wine at this contemporary, high-ceilinged wine bar, which pairs throaty Cannonau reds and tangy Vermentino whites with platters of top-quality Sardinian cured meats and cheeses, prepared at the well-stocked counter.

Hop CornerPUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %070 67 31 58; www.hopcornerbirreria.com; Via Principe Amedeo 14; h7pm-1am Tue-Sat)

This vaulted pub carved out of rock is an atmospheric spot for specialty craft beers and ales, which pair nicely with the excellent hamburgers and platters of Sardinian cured meats and cheeses. It hosts occasional live music evenings with a retro vibe.

TiffanyCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %070 732 47 87; Via Baylle 133; h6am-9pm Mon-Sat)

The outside tables at this handsome brick-vaulted cafe are the place to be for an early evening aperitif. Come around 6.30pm and you'll find every seat taken as Cagliari's fashionable drinkers congregate to catch up on gossip, sip on spritz and look beautiful.

3Entertainment

Cagliari has a lively performance scene, comprising classical music, dance, opera and drama. The season generally runs from October to May, although some places also offer a summer line-up of events. For information on up-coming events ask at the tourist office, check online at Box Office Tickets ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %070 65 74 28; www.boxofficesardegna.it; Viale Regina Margherita 43; h10am-1pm & 5-8pm Mon-Fri winter, plus 10am-1pm Sat summer), or pick up a copy of the local newspaper L’Unione Sarda.

Teatro LiricoTHEATRE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %070 408 22 30; www.teatroliricodicagliari.it; Via Sant’Alenixedda)

This is Cagliari’s premier venue for classical music, opera and ballet. The line-up is fairly traditional but quality is high and concerts are well attended. Tickets range range from €10 to €35 for concerts, from €15 to €75 for opera and ballet.

7Shopping

Cagliari has a refreshing absence of overtly touristy souvenir shops, although they do exist. Style-conscious shoppers will find plenty to browse on Via Giuseppe Manno and Via Giuseppe Garibaldi. Nearby Via Sulis is another good area with several fashion boutiques and jewellery stores. You’ll also find various artisanal shops tucked away, particularly in the Marina district. Sunday is best for flea market and antique finds.

oDurkeFOOD

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %347 2246858; www.durke.com; Via Napoli 66; h10.30am-1.30pm & 4.30-8pm Mon-Sat)

In Sardinian, durke means ‘sweet’, and they don’t come sweeter than this delightful old-fashioned store. Its dolci (sweets) are all made according to age-old recipes, often with nothing more than sugar, egg whites and almonds. Indulge in fruit-and-nut papassinos, moist amaretti di sardegna biscuits and pardulas (delicate ricotta cheesecakes flavoured with saffron).

oMercato di San BenedettoMARKET

( GOOGLE MAP ; Via San Francesco Cocco Ortu; h7am-2pm Mon-Sat)

Cagliari's historic morning food market is exactly what a thriving market should be – busy, noisy and packed with fresh, fabulous produce: fish, salami, heavy clusters of grapes, pecorino the size of wagon wheels, steaks, sushi, you name it.

Enoteca Biondi 1959WINE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %070 667 04 26; www.enotecabiondi.it; Viale Regina Margherita 83; h10am-1.30pm daily & 5-9.30pm Mon-Sat)

One of Cagliari's best stocked bottle shops, Enoteca Biondi sells wine and beer from all over the world, as well as a selection of Italian gourmet specialties: balsamic vinegar from Modena, Sicilian torrone (nougat), conserves, cheeses and truffles.

8Information

Virtually all hotels and B&Bs offer free wi-fi, as do many bars and cafes. The city is dotted with free wi-fi zones, but you'll need an Italian SIM card to log on (the password is sent to your mobile phone).

Banks and ATMs are widely available, particularly around the port and train station, on Largo Carlo Felice and Corso Vittorio Emanuele.

InfoPointTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %070 3791 9201; www.parcomolentargius.it; Edificio Sali Scelti, Via La Palma; h8.30am-8pm Mon-Fri, 9am-8.30pm Sat & Sun)

Learn about the Parco Naturale Regionale Molentargius at its information point on the eastern fringes of town.

Ospedale BrotzuHOSPITAL

( GOOGLE MAP ; %070 53 92 10; www.aobrotzu.it; Piazzale Ricchi 1)

Hospital with accident and emergency department. It's located northwest of the city centre; take bus 1 from Via Roma if you need to make a non-emergency visit.

Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %070 677 81 73; www.cagliariturismo.it; Via Roma 145, Palazzo Civico; h9am-8pm summer, 10am-1pm & 2-5pm Mon-Sat winter)

Helpful English-speaking staff can provide city information and maps. The office is just inside Palazzo Civico's main entrance, on the right.

8Getting There & Away

Air

Cagliari Elma Airport ( GOOGLE MAP ; %070 21 12 11; www.cagliariairport.it) is 9km northwest of the city centre, near Elmas. Flights connect with mainland Italian cities, including Rome, Milan, Bergamo, Bologna, Florence, Naples, Rome, Turin and Venice. There are also flights to/from European destinations including Barcelona, London, Paris and Frankfurt. In summer, there are additional charter flights.

Boat

Cagliari’s ferry port ( GOOGLE MAP ) is located just off Via Roma. Tirrenia ( GOOGLE MAP ; %892 123, agency 070 66 95 01; www.tirrenia.it; Via Riva di Ponente 1; hagency 9am-noon Mon-Sat, plus 4-7pm Mon-Wed, 5-8pm Thu, 4.30-7.30pm Fri, 5-7pm Sat) is the main ferry operator, with year-round services to Civitavecchia, Naples and Palermo. Book tickets at the port agency, online or at travel agencies.

Bus

From the main bus station ( GOOGLE MAP ; Piazza Matteotti), ARST (Azienda Regionale Sarda Trasporti; %800 865042; www.arst.sardegna.it) buses serve Pula (€3.10, 50 minutes, hourly), Chia (€3.70, 1¼ hours, up to 10 daily) and Villasimius (€4.30, 1½ hours, at least six daily), as well as Oristano (€6.70, two hours, two daily), Nuoro (€12.50, 2¾ hours, two daily) and Iglesias (€4.30, 1½ hours, daily Monday to Friday).

Turmo Travel (%0789 2 14 87; www.gruppoturmotravel.com) has services to Olbia (€16.50, 4½ hours, twice daily) and Santa Teresa di Gallura (€19.50, 5½ hours, daily).

Car & Motorcycle

The island’s main dual-carriage, the SS131 'Carlo Felice’, links the capital with Porto Torres via Oristano and Sassari; a branch road, the SS131dcn, runs from Oristano to Olbia via Nuoro. The SS130 leads west to Iglesias.

Train

The main train station is located on Piazza Matteotti. Direct trains serve Iglesias (€4.30, one hour, 11 daily), Sassari (€16.50, 2¾ hours, three daily), Oristano (€6.70, 50 minutes to 1½ hours, 15 daily) and Olbia (€18, 3¼ hours, three daily).

8Getting Around

Bus

CTM (Consorzio Trasporti e Mobilità; %800 078870; www.ctmcagliari.it; single/daily ticket €1.30/3.30) bus routes cover the city and surrounding area. You might use the buses to reach a handful of out-of-the-way sights, and they come in handy for Calamosca and Poetto beaches. Tickets are valid for 1½ hours.

Car & Motorcycle

Driving in the centre of Cagliari is a pain, although given the geography of the town (one big hill), you might consider renting a scooter for a day or two.

Parking in the city centre from 9am to 1pm and 4pm to 8pm Monday to Saturday means paying. On-street metered parking (within the blue lines) costs €1 per hour. Alternatively, there’s a 24-hour car park next to the train station, which costs €1 per hour or €10 for 24 hours. There’s no maximum stay.

Taxi

Many hotels and guesthouses arrange airport pick-ups. There are taxi ranks at Piazza Matteotti ( GOOGLE MAP ; Via Sassari), Piazza Repubblica ( GOOGLE MAP ; Piazza Repubblica) and on Largo Carlo Felice ( GOOGLE MAP ; Piazza Yenne). Otherwise you can call the radio taxi firms Radio Taxi 4 Mori (%070 40 01 01; www.cagliaritaxi.com) and Rossoblù (%070 66 55; www.radiotaxirossoblu.com).

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

THE ANCIENT CITY OF NORA

About 30km southwest of Cagliari, the ruins of Nora ( GOOGLE MAP ; %070 920 91 38; http://nora.beniculturali.unipd.it; adult/reduced €7.50/4.50; h10.30am-7pm Apr-Sep, 10.30am-5.30pm Oct, 10am-4pm Nov–mid-Feb, 8.30am-5pm mid-Feb–Mar) are all that's left of a once-powerful ancient city. Founded by Phoenicians in the 8th century BC, Nora later became an important Punic centre, and in the 3rd century AD, the island's Roman capital. It was eventually abandoned in the 8th century as the threat of Arab raids got too much for its nervous citizens. Highlights of the site, which is accessible by guided tour only, include a Roman theatre and an ancient baths complex.

From Cagliari, take a bus to Pula (€3.10, 50 minutes, hourly), then catch one of the regular Nora shuttles from Pula's Piazza Municipio.

Around Cagliari

The Sarrabus, the triangular-shaped territory that covers Sardinia’s southeastern corner, is one of the island’s least-populated and least-developed areas. It might only be an hour or two by car from Cagliari but it feels like another world with its remote, thickly wooded mountains and snaking, silent roads. Its high point, Monte dei Sette Fratelli (1023m), is a miraculously unspoilt wilderness, home to some of the island’s last remaining deer. The coastal scenery is every bit as impressive, featuring high cliff-bound coves and endless swathes of sand fronted by transparent azure waters.

Villasimius & Capo Carbonara

Once a quiet fishing village surrounded by pines and macchia (Mediterranean scrubland), Villasimius has grown into one of Sardinia’s most popular southern resorts. The town is 1.5km inland but makes a handy base for exploring the fabulous beaches and transparent waters that sparkle on the nearby coast.

1Sights & Activities

oCapo CarbonaraNATURE RESERVE

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.ampcapocarbonara.it)

If you embark on just one excursion from Villasimius, make it the 15-minute drive south to Capo Carbonara, a protected marine park. The promontory dips spectacularly into the crystal-clear waters of the Med. Besides perfect conditions for divers, the area has some gorgeously secluded bays with white quartz sand, backed by cliffs cloaked in macchia and wildflowers. Walking trails teeter off in all directions.

oCala GiuncoBEACH

( GOOGLE MAP )

The pick of Villasimius' spiagge (beaches), Cala Giunco is a vision of beach perfection: a long strip of silky white sand sandwiched between tropical azure waters and a silvery lagoon, the Stagno Notteri ( GOOGLE MAP ), where pink flamingos congregate in winter. To the north, macchia-clad hills rise on the blue horizon.

Fiore di MaggioBOATING

( GOOGLE MAP ; %345 6032042; www.fioredimaggio.eu; per adult/child incl lunch €45/35)

These daily boat tours are a superb way to see the hidden bays and islands of the Capo Carbonara marine reserve. Take your bathers if you fancy a dip.

4Sleeping & Eating

Hotel MariposasHOTEL€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %070 79 00 84; www.hotelmariposas.it; Via Mar Nero 1; s €75-190, d €100-250, ste €125-280; paWs)

Situated about halfway between the town centre and Spiaggia Simius, this lovely stone-clad hotel is set in glorious flower-strewn gardens. Its sunny spacious rooms all have their own terrace or balcony, and there’s an attractive pool for whiling away those lazy afternoons.

Ristorante Le AnforeMEDITERRANEAN€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %070 79 20 32; www.hotelleanfore.com; Via Pallaresus 16; meals €30-40; hnoon-2.30pm Tue-Sun & 7.30-10.30pm daily)

The chef’s love of fresh local produce shines through in Sardinian dishes such as bottarga di muggine (mullet roe) and fregola con le vongole (couscous-like pasta with clams) at this highly regarded hotel-restaurant. Adding to the experience is the alfresco verandah overlooking the hotel gardens.

8Getting There & Away

ARST buses run to and from Cagliari (€4.30, 1½ hours, at least six daily) throughout the year.

DON'T MISS

TOP FIVE BEACHES IN SARDINIA

A Chia

A Spiaggia del Principe

A Spiaggia della Pelosa

A Is Aruttas ( GOOGLE MAP )

A Cala Goloritzè

Costa Rei

Stretching along Sardinia’s southeastern seafront, the Costa Rei extends from Cala Sinzias, about 25km north of Villasimius, to a rocky headland known as Capo Ferrat. Its lengthy beaches are stunning with soft, pearly-white sands and glorious azure waters.

Approaching from Villasimius, the first beach you hit is Cala Sinzias, a pretty sandy strip some 6km south of the main Costa Rei resort. The resort is typical of many in Sardinia, a functional holiday village of villas, shops, bars and eateries that’s dead in winter but packed in the summer holiday months.

North of the resort, the beaches continue up to the road’s end at Capo Ferrato, beyond which drivable dirt trails lead north.

1Sights

Spiaggia Costa ReiBEACH

( GOOGLE MAP )

In front of the eponymous resort, the Spiaggia Costa Rei is a lengthy strip of dazzling white sand lapped by astonishingly clear blue-green waters.

Spiaggia Piscina ReiBEACH

( GOOGLE MAP )

To the north of Costa Rei, this fabulous beach impresses with its blinding-white sand and turquoise water. A couple more beaches fill the remaining length of coast up to Capo Ferrato.

4Sleeping

Villaggio Camping Capo FerratoCAMPGROUND€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %070 99 10 12; www.campingcapoferrato.it; Località Costa Rei; 2 people, car & tent €17-45; hApr-Oct; pW)

Pitch a tent under eucalyptus and mimosa trees at this well-organised campground by the southern entrance to Capo Rei. Facilities include a small food shop, tennis court, kids' playground and direct access to the adjacent beach.

8Getting There & Away

Throughout the year, three weekday ARST buses connect the Costa Rei with Villasimius (€1.90, 45 minutes). In summer, there are at least a couple more services.

Costa del Sud & Chia

Extending from Porto di Teulada to Chia, the Costa del Sud is one of southern Sardinia's most beautiful coastal stretches. The main hub is Chia, a popular summer hang-out centred on two glorious beaches. Elsewhere, you’ll find several swimming spots on the Strada Panoramica della Costa del Sud, the stunning road that dips and twists its way along the rocky coastline.

1Sights & Activities

oStrada Panoramica della Costa del SudSCENIC DRIVE

( GOOGLE MAP )

Running the 25km length of the Costa del Sud, this panoramic road – known more prosaically as the SP71 – snakes along the spectacular coastline between Porto di Teulada and Chia. It's a stunning drive whichever way you do it, with jaw-dropping views at every turn and a succession of bays capped by Spanish-era watchtowers.

Starting in Porto di Teulada, the first stretch twists past several coves as it rises to the high point of Capo Malfatano. Along the way, Spiaggia Piscinni is a great place for a dip with incredible azure waters.

Beyond the cape, the popular Cala Teuradda beach boasts vivid emerald-green waters, summer snack bars and a conveniently situated bus stop.

From here the road climbs inland away from the water. For great coastal views, turn off along the narrow side road at Porto Campana and follow the dirt track to the lighthouse at Capo Spartivento. From here a series of beaches stretch north – watch out for signposts off the main coastal road to Cala Cipolla (a gorgeous spot backed by pine and juniper trees), Spiaggia Su Giudeu and Porto Campana.

At the end of this stretch you'll see another Spanish watchtower presiding over Chia, the small resort that marks the end of the road.

ChiaVILLAGE

( GOOGLE MAP )

More a collection of hotels, holiday homes and campgrounds than a traditional village, Chia is surrounded by rusty-red hills tufted with tough macchia. Its beaches are hugely popular, drawing an annual influx of sun-seekers, windsurfers and water-sports enthusiasts. To see what all the fuss is about, head up to the Spanish watchtower and look down on the Spiaggia Sa Colonia, the area's largest and busiest beach, to the west, and the smaller Spiaggia Su Portu to the east.

4Sleeping

Campeggio Torre ChiaCAMPGROUND€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %070 923 00 54; www.campeggiotorrechia.it; Via del Porto 21, Chia; 2 people, car & tent €24-32, 4-person cottage €65-130; hMay-Oct)

At the popular summer resort of Chia, this busy campground enjoys a prime location near the beach. It's fairly spartan with minimal facilities, tent pitches under pine trees and basic four-person cottages.

8Getting There & Away

Chia is located off the SS195, the main road that runs between Cagliari and Teulada. Regular ARST buses connect Cagliari with Chia (€4.30, 1¼ hours).

Iglesias & the Southwest

Iglesias

Surrounded by the skeletons of Sardinia's once-thriving mining industry, Iglesias is a historic town that bubbles in the summer and slumbers in the colder months. Its historic centre, an appealing ensemble of lived-in piazzas, sun-bleached buildings, churches and Aragonese-style wrought-iron balconies, creates an atmosphere that’s as much Iberian as Sardinian – a vestige of its time as a Spanish colony. Visit at Easter to experience the city’s extraordinary Settimana Santa (Holy Week) processions, featuring trains of sinister, white-robed celebrants parading through the skinny lanes of the centro storico.

Iglesias' focal square, Piazza Quintino Sella ( GOOGLE MAP ), throngs with people during the passeggiata (evening stroll).

1Sights

Cattedrale di Santa ChiaraCATHEDRAL

(Duomo; GOOGLE MAP ; Piazza del Municipio; h9am-12.30pm & 3-8pm)

Dominating the eastern flank of Piazza del Municipio, the Cattedrale di Santa Chiara boasts a lovely Pisan-flavoured facade and a checkerboard stone bell tower. The church was originally built in the late 13th century, but it was given a comprehensive makeover in the 16th century, which accounts for its current Catalan Gothic look. Inside, the highlight is a gilded retable that once held the relics of St Antiochus.

Museo dell'Arte MinerariaMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %347 5176886; www.museoartemineraria.it; Via Roma 47; adult/reduced €5/4; h6.30-8.30pm Sat & Sun summer, by appointment rest of year)

Just outside the historic centre, Iglesias' main museum is dedicated to the town's mining heritage. It displays up to 70 extraction machines, alongside tools and a series of thought-provoking B&W photos. But to get a real taste of the claustrophobic conditions in which the miners worked, duck down into the re-created tunnels. These were dug by mining students and were used to train senior workers until WWII when they were used as air-raid shelters.

4Sleeping

oB&B Mare Monti MiniereB&B€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %348 3310585, 0781 4 17 65; www.maremontiminiere-bb.it; Via Trento 10; s €35-40, d €45-50, tr €65-75; aW)

A warm welcome awaits at this cracking B&B. Situated in a quiet side street near the historic centre, it has two cheery and immaculately kept rooms in the main house and an independent studio with its own kitchen facilities. Thoughtful extras include beach towels and a regular supply of home-baked cakes and biscuits.

8Getting There & Away

ARST buses run to Cagliari (€4.50, one to 1½ hours, twice daily).

WORTH A TRIP

ISOLE DI SANT'ANTIOCO & SAN PIETRO

The southwest's two islands, Isola di Sant'Antioco and Isola di San Pietro, display very different characters. The larger and more developed of the two, Isola di Sant'Antioco boasts little of the obvious beauty that you'd ordinarily associate with small Mediterranean islands, but it hides a rich history – it was founded by the Phoenicians in the 8th century BC, and its historic hilltop centre is littered with necropolises.

Barely half an hour across the water, Isola di San Pietro presents a prettier picture with its pastel houses and bobbing fish boats. A mountainous trachyte island measuring about 15km long and 11km wide, it's named after St Peter, who, legend has it, was marooned here during a storm on the way to Karalis (now Cagliari). Its main town, Carloforte, is the very image of Mediterranean chic, with graceful palazzi, crowded cafes, palm trees along the waterfront and quaint cobbled streets. The island's restaurants dish up the world-famous local tuna.

Regular Delcomar (%0781 85 71 23; www.delcomar.it) ferries sail from Portovesme on the Sardinian 'mainland' to Carloforte (per person/midsize car €4.90/13.70, 30 minutes) and Calasetta (per person/midsize car €4.50/10.80, 13 daily) on Sant'Antioco. Alternatively, Sant'Antioco town is accessible by the SS126 road bridge.

Costa Verde

Extending from Capo Pecora in the south to the small resort of Torre dei Corsari in the north, the Costa Verde (Green Coast) is one of Sardinia's great untamed coastlines, an unspoilt stretch of wild, exhilarating sands and windswept dunes. Inland, woods and macchia (Mediterranean scrubland) cover much of the mountainous hinterland.

The area’s main drawcards are its two magnificent beaches – Spiaggia di Scivu and Spiaggia di Piscinas – and the former mining complex of Montevecchio. Elsewhere, keen hikers can summit Monte Arcuentu (785m), one of the last preserves of the cervo sardo (Sardinian deer), and lovers of quirky museums can learn about Sardinian knives at Arbus, a small mountain town sprawled along the slopes of Monte Linas.

1Sights

oSpiaggia di PiscinasBEACH

( GOOGLE MAP )

This magnificent beach is a picture of unspoilt beauty. A broad band of golden sand, it's sandwiched between a windswept sea and a vast expanse of dunes flecked by hardy green macchia. These towering dunes, known as Sardinia's desert, rise to heights of up to 60m. The beach is signposted off the SS126 and accessible via Ingurtosu and a 9km dirt track.

Spiaggia di ScivuBEACH

( GOOGLE MAP )

A 3km lick of fine sand backed by towering dunes and walls of sandstone, Spiaggia Scivu is the most southerly of the Costa Verde's beaches. To get there take the SS126 and head towards Arbus (if heading north) or Fluminimaggiore (if heading south) and follow the signs about 12km south of Arbus.

4Sleeping & Eating

Agriturismo L'Oasi del CervoAGRITURISMO€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %347 3011318; www.oasidelcervo.com; Località Is Gennas, Montevecchio; d €60-70, half-board per person €55-60; pW)

With 12 modest rooms and a remote location in the midst of macchia-cloaked hills, this working farm is a genuine country hideaway. It's all very down to earth but the rooms are comfortable enough, the views are uplifting, and the homemade food ( GOOGLE MAP ; %347 301 13 18; www.oasidelcervo.com; Località Is Gennas; meals €25-30) is delicious. You'll see a sign for the agriturismo off the SP65 between Montevecchio and Torre dei Corsari.

8Getting There & Away

Travelling in this area is difficult without a car. You can get to Arbus by bus from Cagliari (€5.50, two hours) or Oristano (€4.90, 1¼ hours), but beyond that you're pretty much on your own. Access to the area by road is via the inland SS126.

Oristano & the West

Oristano

%0783 / Pop 31,600

With its elegant shopping streets, ornate piazzas, popular cafes and some good restaurants, Oristano’s refined and animated centre is a lovely place to hang out. Though there’s not a huge amount to see beyond some churches and an interesting archaeological museum, the city makes a good base for the surrounding area.

Oristano

1Top Sights

1Piazza Eleonora d'ArboreaB3

1Sights

2Cattedrale di Santa Maria AssuntaA3

3Municipio (Town Hall)B3

4Museo Antiquarium ArborenseB2

5Statue of EleonoraB3

4Sleeping

6Eleonora B&BB3

7Hotel Regina d'ArboreaB3

5Eating

8La BraceC1

9Trattoria GinoB1

1Sights

oPiazza Eleonora d’ArboreaPIAZZA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP )

Oristano’s elegant outdoor salon sits at the southern end of pedestrianised Corso Umberto I. An impressive, rectangular space, it comes to life on summer evenings when townsfolk congregate and children blast footballs against the glowing palazzi. The city’s central square since the 19th century, it’s flanked by grand buildings, including the neoclassical Municipio. In the centre stands an ornate 19th-century statue of Eleonora, raising a finger as if about to launch into a political speech.

Cattedrale di Santa Maria AssuntaCATHEDRAL

(Duomo; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Piazza del Duomo; h9am-7pm summer, to 6pm winter)

Lording it over Oristano’s skyline, the Duomo's onion-domed bell tower is one of the few remaining elements of the original 14th-century cathedral, itself a reworking of an earlier church damaged by fire in the late 12th century. The free-standing campanile (bell tower), topped by its conspicuous majolica-tiled dome, adds an exotic Byzantine feel to what is otherwise a typical 18th-century baroque complex.

Museo Antiquarium ArborenseMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0783 79 12 62; www.antiquariumarborense.it; Piazza Corrias; adult/reduced €5/2.50; h9am-8pm Mon-Fri, 9am-2pm & 3-8pm Sat & Sun)

Oristano’s principal museum boasts one of the island’s major archaeological collections, with prehistoric artefacts from the Sinis Peninsula and finds from Carthaginian and Roman Tharros. There's also a small collection of retabli (painted altarpieces), including the 16th-century Retablo del Santo Cristo, from the workshop of Pietro Cavaro depicts a group of apparently beatific saints, but look closer and you’ll see they all sport the instruments of their torture slicing through their heads, necks and hearts.

zFestivals & Events

oSa SartigliaCARNIVAL

(hFeb)

Oristano’s carnival is the most colourful on the island. It is attended by hundreds of costumed participants and involves a medieval joust, horse racing and incredible, acrobatic riding.

4Sleeping

oEleonora B&BB&B€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %347 4817976, 0783 7 04 35; www.eleonora-bed-and-breakfast.com; Piazza Eleonora d'Arborea 12; s €40-60, d €70-90, tr €80-110; aW)

This charming B&B scores on all counts: location – it's in a medieval palazzo on Oristano’s central piazza; decor – rooms are tastefully decorated with a mix of antique furniture, exposed brick walls and gorgeous old tiles; and hospitality – owners Andrea and Paola are helpful and hospitable hosts. All this and it's excellent value for money.

oHotel Regina d'ArboreaBOUTIQUE HOTEL€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0783 30 21 01; www.hotelreginadarborea.com; Piazza Eleonora 4; r €130-180)

Palatial elegance and prime location are the twin attractions at this relative newcomer on Oristano's main square. Four of the seven rooms are downright magnificent, with 7m-high ceilings, restored ceiling frescoes and original patterned floors. Book ahead for the Sofia room, crowned with a hexagonal cupola and wraparound windows that offer a bird's-eye view of Oristano's famous Eleonora d'Arborea statue.

5Eating & Drinking

oDriMcafèCAFE€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %078 330 37 50; Via Cagliari 316; light snacks & meals €4-9; h8.30am-8pm Mon-Sat; Wv)

This delightful, laid-back hang-out brings a slice of boho warmth to Oristano, with its rust-red walls, mishmash of vintage furnishings, book shelves and chipper service. Besides specialty teas (including Moroccan mint) and homemade cakes, it rustles up daily specials – from vegetarian and vegan offerings to rosemary-rubbed lamb with seasonal vegetables.

oTrattoria GinoTRATTORIA€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0783 7 14 28; Via Tirso 13; meals €25-33; h12.30-3pm & 8-11pm Mon-Sat)

For excellent food and a bustling, authentic vibe, head to this old-school trattoria. Since the 1930s, locals and visitors alike have been squeezing into Gino's simple dining room to feast on tasty seafood and classic pastas. Don't miss the seafood antipasto, the butter-soft roast seppie (cuttlefish) and the scrumptious seadas (fried dough pockets with fresh pecorino, lemon and honey) for dessert.

La BraceSARDINIAN€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0783 7 33 28; Via Figoli 41; lunch specials €15-20, meals €25-35; h1-3pm & 8-11pm Tue-Sun)

This restaurant's name refers to the glowing embers of a wood fire, and grilled meats and fish are indeed its specialty – but you'll also find a full range of Sardinian appetisers, homemade pastas and desserts. The weekday lunch special is a big draw at €15 for two courses, or €20 for three.

8Information

Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0783 368 32 10; www.gooristano.com; Piazza Eleonora d'Arborea 18; h9am-1pm Mon-Fri, plus 3-6pm Mon & Wed)

Oristano's tourist office is helpful and centrally located on the main square.

8Getting There & Away

From the main bus station ( GOOGLE MAP ; Via Cagliari), direct buses run to/from Santa Giusta (€1.30, 15 minutes, half-hourly), Cagliari (€6.70, two hours, two daily), Bosa (€4.90, two hours, five daily) and Sassari (€8.10, two hours, three daily).

The main train station is on Piazza Ungheria, east of the town centre. Up to 15 daily trains, some of which involve a change, run between Oristano and Cagliari (€6.70, 50 to 80 minutes). Direct trains serve Sassari (€11, two to 2¼ hours, two to three daily) and Olbia (€12.50, 2½ hours, two to three daily); there are additional services but they require a change at Ozieri-Chilivani.

Tharros & the Sinis Peninsula

Spearing into the Golfo di Oristano, the Sinis Peninsula feels like a world apart. Its limpid lagoons – the Stagno di Cabras, Stagno Sale Porcus and Stagno Is Benas – and snow-white beaches lend it an almost tropical air, while the low-lying green countryside appears uncontaminated by human activity. In fact, the area has been inhabited since the 5th century BC. Nuraghi litter the landscape and the compelling Punic-Roman site of Tharros stands testament to the area’s former importance. Sports fans will enjoy great surfing, windsurfing and some fine diving.

1Sights

oArea Archeologica di TharrosARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0783 37 00 19; www.tharros.sardegna.it; adult/reduced €5/4, incl tower €6/5, incl Museo Civico Cabras $8/6; h9am-7pm Jun, Jul & Sep, to 8pm Aug, to 6pm Apr, May & Oct, to 5pm Nov-Mar)

The choppy blue waters of the Golfo di Oristano provide a magnificent backdrop to the ruins of ancient Tharros. Founded by the Phoenicians in the 8th century BC, the city thrived as a Carthaginian naval base and was later taken over by the Romans. Much of what you see today dates to the 2nd and 3rd centuries AD, when the basalt streets were laid and the aqueduct, baths and other major monuments were built.

oMuseo CivicoMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0783 29 06 36; www.museocabras.it; Via Tharros 121; adult/reduced €5/4, incl Tharros €8/5; h9am-1pm & 4-8pm daily Apr-Oct, 9am-1pm & 3-7pm Tue-Sun Nov-Mar)

Cabras' cultural highlight is the Museo Civico, and the real superstars here are the so-called Giants of Monte Prama, a series of towering nuraghic figures depicting archers, wrestlers and boxers. Also of interest are finds from Tharros and the prehistoric site of Cuccuru Is Arrius, along with obsidian and flint tools said to date back to the Neolithic cultures of Bonu Ighinu and Ozieri. As of 2017, the museum was expanding to accommodate additional finds from the Monte Prama excavations.

Chiesa di San Giovanni di SinisCHURCH

( GOOGLE MAP ; h9am-5pm)

Near the southern tip of the Sinis Peninsula, just beyond the car park at the foot of the Tharros access road, you’ll see the sandstone Chiesa di San Giovanni di Sinis, one of the two oldest churches in Sardinia (Cagliari’s Basilica di San Saturnino is older). It owes its current form to an 11th-century makeover, although elements of the 6th-century Byzantine original remain, including the characteristic red dome. Inside, the bare walls lend a sombre and surprisingly spiritual atmosphere.

WORTH A TRIP

EXPLORING THE SINIS PENINSULA

One of the peninsula's most famous beaches, Is Aruttas is a pristine arc of white sand fronted by translucent aquamarine waters. For years its quartz sand was carted off to be used in aquariums and on beaches on the Costa Smeralda, but it's now illegal to take the sand away. From San Salvatore on the main Oristano–Tharros road, follow signs 2km north along the SP7 then continue 5km west on the SP59 to reach the beach.

Backed by a motley set of holiday homes and beach bars, Putzu Idu's ( GOOGLE MAP ) beach sits near the north of the peninsula. It's a picturesque strip of sand that's something of a water-sports hot spot with excellent surfing, windsurfing and kitesurfing. To the north, the Capo Mannu promontory is scalloped with a tantalising array of more secluded beaches – and battered by some of the Mediterranean's biggest waves.

In business for more than 20 years, the Sinis Peninsula's top surf school, Is Benas Surf Club ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0783 192 53 63; www.isbenas.com; Lungomare S'Arena Scoada, Putzu Idu), has it all – from lessons to equipment to accommodation to professional advice – for surfers, kitesurfers and stand-up paddleboarders. The main branch is just south of Putzu Idu at Arena Scoada beach, while the affiliated Capo Mannu Kite School is a few kilometres northwest at Sa Rocca Tunda.

4Sleeping & Eating

Agriturismo SinisAGRITURISMO€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0783 39 26 53, 328 9312508; www.agriturismoilsinis.it; Località San Salvatore; half-board per person €52-65; a)

This working farm offers 12 guest rooms (including six constructed in 2017) and serves wonderful earthy food. Rooms are frill-free but clean and airy, and views of the lush garden can be enjoyed from chairs on the patio.

oHotel LucreziaHOTEL€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0783 41 20 78; www.hotellucrezia.it; Via Roma 14a, Riola Sardo; r €164-184, ste €264-284; ai)

Housed in a 17th-century cortile (courtyard house), this elegant hideaway has rooms surrounding an inner garden complete with wisteria-draped pergola, fig and citrus trees. The decor is rustic-chic, with high 18th-century antique beds, period furniture and eye-catching tiled bathrooms. Bikes are provided, and the welcoming staff regularly organise cooking classes. Note that there's a three-night minimum stay in August.

Sa Pischera 'e Mar 'e PontisSEAFOOD€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0783 39 17 74; www.consorziopontis.it; Strada Provinciale 6; menus €27-32; h1-2.30pm & 8-9.30pm)

Fronting the Pontis fishing cooperative on the waterfront between Cabras and Tharros, this is an atmospheric spot to sample fresh seafood. The menu changes according to the daily catch, but pride of place goes to the local muggine (mullet) and prized bottarga (mullet roe). Booking recommended.

Bosa

%0785 / Pop 7930

Bosa is one of Sardinia’s most attractive towns. Seen from a distance, its rainbow townscape resembles a vibrant Paul Klee canvas, with pastel houses stacked on a steep hillside, tapering up to a stark, grey castle. In front, moored fishing boats bob on a glassy river elegantly lined with palm trees.

Bosa was established by the Phoenicians and thrived under the Romans. During the early Middle Ages it suffered repeat raids by Arab pirates, but in the early 12th century a branch of the noble Tuscan Malaspina family moved in and built their huge castle. In the 19th century, the Savoys established lucrative tanneries here, but these have since fallen by the wayside.

At the mouth of the Fiume Temo, about 2.5km west of Bosa proper, Bosa Marina is the town’s seaside satellite, a busy summer resort set on a wide, 1km-long beach overlooked by a 16th-century Aragonese defensive tower.

1Sights

oCastello MalaspinaCASTLE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0785 37 70 43; adult/reduced €4/3; h10am-1hr before sunset Apr-Oct, 10am-1pm Sat & Sun Nov-Mar)

Commanding huge views, this hilltop castle was built in the 12th and 13th centuries by the Tuscan Malaspina family. Little remains of the original structure except for its skeleton – imposing walls and a series of stone towers. Inside, a humble 14th-century chapel, the Chiesa di Nostra Signora di Regnos Altos, is adorned with an extraordinary 14th-century fresco cycle depicting saints ranging from St George slaying the dragon to St Lawrence in the middle of his martyrdom on the grill.

oMuseo Casa DeriuMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0785 37 70 43; Corso Vittorio Emanuele 59; adult/reduced €4.50/3; h10.30am-1pm & 3-5pm Tue-Fri, to 6pm Sat & Sun)

Housed in an elegant 19th-century townhouse, Bosa's main museum showcases local arts and artisanal crafts. Each of the three floors has a different theme relating to the city and its past: the 1st floor hosts temporary exhibitions and displays of traditional hand embroidery; the 2nd floor displays the palazzo's original 19th-century decor and furnishings; and the top floor is dedicated to Melkiorre Melis (1889–1982), a local painter and one of Sardinia’s most important modern artists.

4Sleeping

oLa Torre di AliceB&B€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %347 6671785, 329 8570064; www.latorredialice.it; Via del Carmine 7; s/d/tr €60/75/95; aW)

This great budget choice is set in a wonderful old tower house in Bosa's medieval centre, within easy walking distance of everything. Its five rooms are neat and comfortable, with low brick-vaulted ceilings, wrought-iron beds and electric kettles. Owners Alice and Marco offer oodles of local information and serve a tasty breakfast at the rustic communal table downstairs.

Hotel Sa PischeddaHOTEL€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0785 37 30 65; www.hotelsapischedda.com; Via Roma 8; d €95-170; aiW)

The apricot facade of this restored 1890s hotel greets you just south of the Ponte Vecchio. Several rooms retain original frescoed ceilings, some are split-level, and a few (such as 305) have terraces overlooking the river. Additional perks include friendly staff, an excellent restaurant and thoughtful touches for families (witness the 4th-floor suite with its own elevator for easy stroller access).

5Eating & Drinking

oLocanda di CorteSARDINIAN€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %340 2474823; www.facebook.com/LocandaDiCorte; Via del Pozzo 7; meals €30-35; h12.30-2.30pm & 7.30-10pm Wed-Mon)

Wriggle through Bosa's backstreets to discover this sweet local trattoria on a secluded cobblestoned square. Owners Angelo and Angela work the small collection of tables adorned with red-and-white-checked cloths, while their son Nicola cooks up scrumptious Sardinian classics such as fregola pasta with mussels, clams and cherry tomatoes, or pork chops in Cannonau wine.

Cantina G Battista ColumbuWINE BAR

( GOOGLE MAP ; %339 5731677; www.malvasiacolumbu.com; Via del Carmine 104; h10.30am-1.30pm & 5.30-9pm)

A wonderful venue for sampling Bosa's renowned Malvasia, this attractive cantina is operated by the Columbu family, which has been producing wine in the region for three generations. Sip glasses (€3 to €4) of their smooth-as-silk, sherry-like Malvasia di Bosa and aromatic Alvariga along with wines from other Sardinian vintners, accompanied by local salumi and formaggi (cold cuts and cheeses).

8Getting There & Away

There are weekday services from the bus stops ( GOOGLE MAP ; Piazza Zanetti) to Alghero (€3.70, 55 minutes, two daily), Sassari (€4.30, 2¼ hours, three daily) and Oristano (€5.50, two hours, five daily). Buy tickets at Edicola da Oscar ( GOOGLE MAP ; Corso Vittorio Emanuele 80; h6am-8pm Mon-Sat, to 1pm Sun).

WORTH A TRIP

THE SACRED WELL OF SANTA CRISTINA

Signposted off the SS131 about 25km northeast of Oristano, the extraordinary Nuraghe di Santa Cristina ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.archeotour.net; adult/reduced incl Museo Archeologico-Etnografico Paulilatino €5/2.50; h8.30am-sunset) is Sardinia's finest example of a nuraghic tempio a pozzo (well temple). The worship of water was a fundamental part of nuraghic religious practice, and there are reckoned to be about 40 such sacred wells across the island.

Dating back to the late Bronze Age (11th to 9th century BC), the temple is accessible through a finely cut keyhole entrance and a flight of 24 superbly preserved steps. When you reach the bottom you can gaze up at the perfectly constructed tholos (conical tower), through which light enters the dark well shaft. Every 18 years, one month and two days, the full moon shines directly through the aperture into the well. Otherwise you can catch the yearly equinoxes in March and September, when the sun illuminates the stairway down to the well.

Alghero & the Northwest

Alghero

%079 / Pop 44,000

One of Sardinia's most beautiful medieval cities, Alghero is the main resort in the northwest. Although largely given over to tourism – its population can almost quadruple in July and August – the town retains a proud and independent spirit. Its animated historic centre is a terrific place to hang out, and with so many excellent restaurants and bars, it makes an ideal base for exploring the beaches and beauty spots of the nearby Riviera del Corallo.

The main focus of attention is the picturesque centro storico (historic centre), one of the best preserved in Sardinia. Enclosed by robust, honey-coloured sea walls, it's a tightly knit enclave of cobbled lanes, Gothic palazzi and cafe-lined piazzas. Below, yachts crowd the marina and long, sandy beaches curve away to the north. Presiding over everything is a palpable Spanish atmosphere, a hangover from the city’s past as a Catalan colony.

Alghero

1Top Sights

1CampanileB2

2Chiesa di San FrancescoB3

3Sea WallsA3

1Sights

4Sleeping

5Eating

7MabroukA2

8Prosciutteria Sant MiquelB4

9Trattoria Lo RomanìB3

6Drinking & Nightlife

10Cafè LatinoB2

11Caffè CostantinoB2

12l'altra vineriaB3

13SardOaA2

1Sights

oSea WallsWALLS

(Bastioni; MAP GOOGLE MAP )

Alghero's golden sea walls, built around the centro storico by the Aragonese in the 16th century, are a highlight of the town's historic cityscape. Running from Piazza Sulis in the south to Porta a Mare and the marina in the north, they're crowned by a pedestrianised path that commands superb views over to Capo Caccia on the blue horizon. Restaurants and bars line the walkway, providing the perfect perch to sit back and lap up the holiday atmosphere.

oCampanileTOWER

(Bell Tower; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %079 973 30 41; Via Principe Umberto; adult/reduced €2.50/free; h11am-1pm & 7-9pm Mon & Fri Jul & Aug, 11am-1pm Mon, Tue, Thu & Fri & 4-7pm Thu & Fri May, Jun, Sep & Oct, by request Dec & Jan, closed Feb-Apr)

Rising above the historic centre, the Cattedrale di Santa Maria's 16th-century campanile (bell tower) is one of Alghero's signature landmarks. The tower, accessible through a Gothic doorway on Via Principe Umberto, is a fine example of Catalan Gothic architecture with its elegant octagonal structure and short pyramid-shaped spire. Climb to the top for amazing views.

oChiesa di San FrancescoCHURCH

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %079 97 92 58; Via Carlo Alberto; h9.15am-12.30pm Mon-Sat & 5-6.30pm Mon, Wed, Thu & Sat, 4.30-6.30pm Tue & Fri, 9.15-10.30am & 5-6.30pm Sun)

Alghero's finest church is a model of architectural harmony. Originally built to a Catalan Gothic design in the 14th century, it was later given a Renaissance facelift after it partially collapsed in 1593. Inside, interest is focused on the 18th-century polychrome marble altar and a strange 17th-century wooden sculpture of a haggard Christ tied to a column. Through the sacristy you can enter a beautiful 14th-century cloister, where the 22 columns connect a series of round arches.

Piazza CivicaPIAZZA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP )

Just inside Porta a Mare, Piazza Civica is Alghero’s showcase square. In a former life it was the administrative heart of the medieval city, but where Spanish aristocrats once met to debate affairs of empire, tourists now converge to browse jewellery displays in elegant shop windows, eat gelati and drink at the city’s grandest cafe – Caffè Costantino ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %079 98 29 29; Piazza Civica 31; h7.30am-1.30am, closed Mon winter). It occupies the ground floor of the Gothic Palazzo d’Albis (Palazzo de Ferrera; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Piazza Civica), where the Spanish emperor Charles V famously stayed in 1541.

PREHISTORIC WONDERS

The strange nuraghi (prehistoric stone structures) that litter Sardinia's interior provide compelling windows into the world of the island's mysterious Bronze Age people. There are said to be up to 7000 nuraghi across the island, most built between 1800 and 500 BC. No one is absolutely certain what they were used for, although most experts think they were defensive watchtowers.

Even before they started building nuraghi, the Sardinians were busy digging tombs into the rock, known as domus de janas (fairy houses). More elaborate were the common graves fronted by stele called tombe dei giganti (giants' tombs).

Evidence of pagan religious practices is provided by pozzi sacri (well temples). Built from around 1000 BC, these were often constructed to capture light at the yearly equinoxes, hinting at a naturalistic religion as well as sophisticated building techniques.

2Activities

Progetto NaturaTOURS

( GOOGLE MAP ; %392 1404069; www.progettonaturasardegna.com; Lungomare Barcellona; tours adult/reduced €37/25)

Take to Alghero's seas with a crew of marine biologists and environmental guides. Summer day tours, which run from June to October, combine dolphin watching with snorkelling in the protected waters of the Area Marina Protetta Capo Caccia-Isola Piana; winter tours, from November to May, are dedicated to dolphin watching. Note, its seafront kiosk is only operative May through October.

NautisubDIVING

( GOOGLE MAP ; %079 95 24 33; www.nautisub.com; Via Garibaldi 45; h9am-1pm daily, plus 4-7.30pm Tue-Sat)

Operating out of a dive shop on the seafront, this year-round outfit organises dives (from €45 or €60 with kit hire), snorkelling excursions (€35) and boat tours (€50 including lunch).

4Sleeping

B&B BenebenniuB&B€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %380 1746726; www.benebenniu.com; Via Carlo Alberto 70; r €50-105; aW)

A home away from home, this laid-back B&B exudes warmth and familiarity. It's wonderfully located on a lively centro storico piazza and has three generously sized rooms with simple furnishings and plenty of natural light. Hosts Katya and Valeria are more than happy to share their local tips and recommendations.

Lloc d'OrB&B€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %391 1726083; www.llocdor.com; Via Logudoro 26; s €45-55, d €60-80; aW)

A cute budget B&B just a couple of minutes' walk from the seafront and harbour. Its two rooms and apartment are bright and simply furnished, and hosts Gemma and Giovanni go that extra mile to make you feel welcome – be it with beach towels, delicious breakfasts or tips on getting about town.

oAngedras HotelHOTEL€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %079 973 50 34; www.angedras.it; Via Frank 2; s €74-110, d €90-200; paW)

A 15-minute walk from the historic centre, the Angedras – Sardegna backwards – is a model of whitewashed Mediterranean elegance. Rooms, which come with their own small balcony, are decorated in an understated Sardinian style with cool white tiles and aquamarine-blue touches. There's also an airy terrace, good for iced drinks on hot summer evenings.

oVilla Las TronasHERITAGE HOTEL€€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %079 98 18 18; www.hotelvillalastronas.it; Via Lungomare Valencia 1; s €227-297, d €257-519; paWs)

Live like royalty at this palatial seafront hotel. Housed in a 19th-century palace once used by holidaying royals, it's set in its own lush gardens on a private headland. The individually styled rooms are pure fin de siècle, with elegant antiques, oil paintings and glorious sea views. A spa with an indoor pool, sauna, hydro-massage and gym invites lingering.

5Eating

Eating out is a joy in Alghero. There are a huge number of restaurants, trattorias, pizzerias and takeaways, many in the historic centre, and standards are generally high. Menus feature the full range of Sardinian staples, but seafood is the star. A local speciaity is Catalan-style lobster, aragosta alla catalana, served with tomato and onion.

Prosciutteria Sant MiquelSARDINIAN€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %348 4694434; Via della Misericordia 20; meals €20; h11.30am-1am summer, shorter hours winter)

A model wine bar complete with wooden ceiling, hanging hams and a menu of delicious Sardinian charcuterie and cheeses. Grab a table in the tiny, usually packed, interior and tuck into wafer-thin slices of ham and salami, wedges of aged pecorino and bowls of plump, glistening olives, all served on thick wooden boards.

oTrattoria Lo RomanìSARDINIAN€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %079 973 84 79; Via Principe Umberto 29; meals €35; h12.30-2.30pm Tue-Sun & 7.30-10.30pm daily)

Many of Alghero restaurants serve porcetto, Sardinia's classic spit-roasted pork, but few places cook it to such buttery perfection. The crackling is spot on and the meat is sweet and packed with flavour. Porcetto apart, it's a delightful trattoria. Exposed sandstone walls and soft lighting create a warm, elegant atmosphere, service is attentive and the fresh island food is terrific.

oLa BotteghinaSARDINIAN€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %079 973 83 75; www.labotteghina.biz; Via Principe Umberto 63; meals €35; h7-11.30pm Wed-Sun plus noon-3pm Sat & Sun)

Cool, casual dining in a stylish centro storico setting – think blond-wood decor and low sandstone arches – is what La Botteghina is all about. In keeping with the upbeat, youthful vibe, the food is simple, seasonal and local, so expect steaks of bue rosso beef, cured meats and Sardinian cheeses, alongside inventive pizzas and Sardinian wines and craft beers.

MabroukSEAFOOD€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %079 97 00 00; http://mabroukalghero.com; Via Santa Barbara 4; meals €40; h6pm-midnight Tue-Sat, 1-3.30pm Sun)

Reserve a table at this cosy, low-ceilinged stone restaurant and you never know what you're going to get. What you do know is that it'll be fish, it'll be fresh, and it'll be excellent. Dinner, which is served as a set menu, depends on the day's catch, but with several antipasti, three pasta dishes and three main courses included, you won't go hungry.

6Drinking & Nightlife

ol'altra vineriaCRAFT BEER

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %079 601 49 54; Via Principe Umberto 66-68; h7pm-late)

A newcomer to Alghero's drinking scene, l'altra vineria is all about the pleasures of craft beer and island wine. The bar, run with warmth and infectious enthusiasm by Luca and Sonia, is a small, cosy place with barrels doubling as tables and a selection of terrific beers, including Sassari-brewed Speed.

oSardOaWINE BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %349 2212055; Piazza Duomo 4; h6pm-late daily summer, noon-2.30pm & 6pm-late Sat & Sun winter)

The Basque country lands in Alghero at this chilled wine bar. Under a vaulted stone ceiling, happy punters sit on wooden crates and sip Basque and Sardinian wines while munching on pintxos (Basque-style tapas) made with glistening anchovies and Iberic ham.

Cafè LatinoBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %079 97 65 41; Bastioni Magellano 10; h9am-2am daily summer, to 9.30pm Wed-Mon winter)

Revel in romantic harbour views over an evening aperitivo at this chic bar on the sea walls. Overlooking the marina, it has outside tables and an ample menu of drinks and snacks.

8Information

Airport Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %079 93 50 11; h9am-11pm)

In the arrivals hall.

InfoAlghero OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %079 97 90 54; www.algheroturismo.eu; Largo Lo Quarter; h9am-1pm & 3.30-6.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm & 4-7pm Sat year-round, plus 10am-1pm Sun summer only)

The helpful English-speaking staff can provide information on the city and environs. Note that there's a possibility the office will relocate to the Giardini Pubblici.

Ospedale CivileHOSPITAL

( GOOGLE MAP ; %079 995 51 11; Via Don Minzoni)

Alghero's main hospital.

Police StationPOLICE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %079 972 00 00; Via Fratelli Kennedy; h8am-8pm Mon-Fri, to 2pm Sat & Sun)

8Getting There & Away

Air

Alghero airport (Fertilia; GOOGLE MAP ; %079 93 50 11; www.aeroportodialghero.it) is 10km northwest of town in Fertilia. It's served by Alitalia ( GOOGLE MAP ; %892010; www.alitalia.com) and a number of low-cost carriers, including Ryanair ( GOOGLE MAP ; %895 589 5509; www.ryanair.com), which operates flights to mainland Italy and destinations across Europe, including Brussels, Eindhoven, Frankfurt, London and Munich.

Bus

Intercity buses serve the bus terminal ( GOOGLE MAP ; Via Catalogna) by the Giardini Pubblici. Note, however, that it's not much of a terminal, more a series of bus stops with a small ticket office ( GOOGLE MAP ; Via Catalogna; h6.25am-7.15pm Mon-Sat). Up to 11 daily ARST (%800 865042; www.arst.sardegna.it) buses run to Sassari (€3.10, one hour), where you can pick up connections to Olbia. ARST also offers direct service to/from Bosa (€3.70, 1¼ hours, two daily with extra services in summer). Logudoro Tours (%079 28 17 28; www.logudorotours.it) runs two daily buses from Alghero airport to Cagliari (€20, 3½ hours), via Oristano (€16, 2¼ hours). Redentours (%0784 3 03 25; www.redentours.com) operates two daily buses from the airport to Nuoro (€18, 2¼ hours).

Car & Motorcycle

The fast-running SS291 connects with Sassari, 40km to the northeast, where you can pick up the SS131, the island's main north–south artery. Snaking along the west coast, the scenic SP105 runs 46km southwards to Bosa.

Train

The train station is 1.5km north of the old town on Via Don Minzoni. There are up to 12 daily trains to/from Sassari (€3.10, 35 minutes).

8Getting Around

From the bus stop ( GOOGLE MAP ; Via Cagliari), bus line AF runs along the seafront and up to Fertilia. Tickets, available at newspaper stands and tabacchi (tobacconists), cost €1, although you can also buy them on board for €1.50.

Operating out of a hut on the seaward side of Via Garibaldi, Cicloexpress ( GOOGLE MAP ; %079 98 69 50; www.cicloexpress.com; Via Garibaldi; h9am-1pm & 4-7.30pm Mon-Sat, 9.30am-noon Sun) hires out cars (from €60 per day), scooters (from €30) and bikes (from €5).

There’s a taxi rank ( GOOGLE MAP ) by the Giardini Pubblici at Via Vittorio Emanuele 1. Otherwise you can call for one by phoning Alghero Radio Taxi (%079 989 20 28; www.taxialghero.it).

WORTH A TRIP

TOP DROP

Sardinia's top wine producer, Sella e Mosca, has been based on this 650-hectare estate since 1899. To learn more about its history and production methods, join the free afternoon tour of the estate's historic cellars and lovingly tended museum. Afterwards, stock up at the beautiful enoteca ( GOOGLE MAP ; %079 99 77 19; www.sellaemosca.it; Località I Piani; h8.30am-8pm Mon-Sat summer, to 6pm winter). Private tastings can also be organised.

From Alghero, three weekday buses pass by the turn-off for Sella e Mosca (€1.90, 25 minutes).