Riviera del Corallo

The Riviera del Corallo (Coral Riviera), named after the red coral for which the area is famous, encompasses Alghero’s northwest coast and hinterland. The main focus of interest is Porto Conte, a scenic bay sprinkled with hotels and discreet villas, and Capo Caccia, a rocky headland famous for its cave complex, the Grotta di Nettuno. Along the way are several great beaches and a couple of interesting archaeological sites.

1Sights & Activities

icon-top-choiceoGrotta di NettunoCAVE

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%079 94 65 40; adult/reduced €13/7; icon-hoursgifh9am-7pm May-Sep, 10am-4pm Apr & Oct, 10am-2pm Jan-Mar, Nov & Dec)

Capo Caccia's principal crowd-puller is the Grotta di Nettuno, a haunting fairyland of stalactites and stalagmites. The easiest way to get to the caves is to take a ferry from Alghero, but for those with a head for heights, there's a vertiginous 654-step staircase, the Escala del Cabirol, that descends 110m of sheer cliff from the car park at the end of the Capo Caccia road.

To get to the caves by public transport, a daily ARST bus departs from Via Catalogna (€2.50, 50 minutes) in Alghero at 9.15am and returns at midday. From June to September, there are two extra runs at 3.10pm and 5.10pm, returning at 4.05pm and 6.05pm.

icon-top-choiceoLe Prigionette Nature ReserveNATURE RESERVE

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%079 94 21 11; Località Prigionette; on foot or by bike €3, per person in car €5; icon-hoursgifh9am-6pm summer, to 4pm winter)

This reserve, just west of Porto Conte at the base of Monte Timidone (361m), is a beautiful pocket of uncontaminated nature. Encompassing 12 sq km of woodland, aromatic macchia (Mediterranean scrub) and rocky coastline, it offers wonderful scenery and excellent walking with a network of well-marked tracks, suitable for hikers and cyclists. Wildlife flourishes – deer, albino donkeys, Giara horses and wild boar roam the woods, while griffon vultures and falcons fly the skies.

Nuraghe di PalmaveraARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%329 4385947; www.coopsilt.it; Località Monte Palmavera; adult/reduced €6/4, incl Necropoli di Anghelu Ruju €8/6; icon-hoursgifh9am-7pm Mon-Fri summer, 10am-2pm daily winter)

A few kilometres west of Fertilia on the SS127bis road to Porto Conte, the Nuraghe di Palmavera is a 3500-year-old nuraghic village. At its centre stands a limestone tower and an elliptical building with a secondary sandstone tower. The ruins of smaller towers and fortified walls surround the central edifice, beyond which are the packed remnants of circular dwellings, of which there may originally have been about 50.

Between April and September a single weekday bus runs to the site from Alghero (€1.30); otherwise you'll need a bike or car to get there.

Spiaggia MugoniBEACH

( GOOGLE MAP )

The main focus of Porto Conte is Spiaggia Mugoni, a hugely popular beach that arcs around the bay’s northeastern flank. With its fine white sand and protected waters, it makes an excellent venue for beginners to try their hand at water sports. The Club della Vela ( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%338 1489583; www.clubdellavelaalghero.it; Località Mugoni) offers windsurfing, canoeing, kayaking and sailing courses, and also rents out boats.

8Getting There & Away

You can get to most places in this area by ARST bus from Alghero. That said, there might only be two or three weekday buses, and even fewer on Sundays and in winter. To explore the area in any depth, you'll really need your own transport.

Stintino & Isola dell'Asinara

Sardinia’s remote northwestern tip boasts wild, unspoiled countryside and one of the island’s most celebrated beaches, the stunning Spiaggia della Pelosa.

The only town of any note is Stintino, a former tuna-fishing village turned breezy summer resort and the main gateway to the Isola dell’Asinara. This small island, now a national park and wildlife haven, was for years home to one of Italy’s most notorious prisons.

North of Stintino, the road continues to Capo Falcone, a rugged headland peppered with hotels and holiday homes, and the fabled Pelosa beach.

Outside of summer, the area is pretty deserted. Silence hangs over the empty landscape and the cold maestrale (northwesterly) wind blows through, blasting the tough macchia (Mediterranean scrubland) and bare rocks.

1Sights & Activities

icon-top-choiceoSpiaggia della PelosaBEACH

( GOOGLE MAP )

About 2.5km north of Stintino, the Spiaggia della Pelosa is a dreamy image of beach perfection: a salt-white strip of sand lapped by shallow, turquoise seas and fronted by strange, almost lunar, licks of rocky land. Completing the picture is a Catalan-Aragonese watchtower on the craggy Isola Piana. The beach gets extremely busy in July and August, but is popular throughout the year, especially with wind- and kitesurfers, who take to its waters when the maestrale wind whips through.

icon-top-choiceoParco Nazionale dell'AsinaraNATIONAL PARK

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.parcoasinara.org)

Named after its resident asini bianchi (albino donkeys), the Isola dell'Asinara encompasses 51 sq km of macchia (Mediterranean scrub), rocky coastline and remote sandy beaches. The island, Sardinia's second largest, is now a national park, but for years it was home to one of Italy's toughest maximum-security prisons. The only way to reach it is with a licensed boat operator from Stintino or Porto Torres. Once there, you can explore independently, although there's no public transport and access is restricted to certain areas.

Windsurfing Center StintinoWINDSURFING

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%079 52 70 06; www.windsurfingcenter.it; Località l'Approdo, Le Saline)

On the beach at Pelosa, this outfit rents out windsurf rigs (from €18 per hour) and canoes (from €10 per hour), as well as offering windsurfing and sailing courses. If that all sounds far too energetic, it can also sort you out with an umbrella and sunloungers (€17 to €33 per day).

Asinara Scuba DivingDIVING

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%079 52 71 75; www.asinarascubadiving.com; Viale la Pelosa, Località Porto dell'Ancora)

Just before Pelosa beach, near the Club Hotel Ancora, this diving centre offers a range of dives around Capo Falcone and the protected waters of the Parco Nazionale dell’Asinara. Reckon on €45-plus for a dive and €20 for kit hire.

Agenzia La NassaTOURS

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%079 52 00 60; www.agenzialanassa.it; Via Sassari 39; tours per person €18-65; icon-hoursgifh8.30am-1pm & 4.30-8pm daily summer, Mon-Sat winter)

This agency runs a number of tours around Parco Nazionale dell’Asinara. The cheapest option, available between June and September, covers your ferry passage only, leaving you free to walk or cycle on designated paths on the island – you can download a map from the agency's website. More expensive packages include boat tours and visits with 4WD or bus transport.

4Sleeping & Eating

Albergo SilvestrinoHOTEL

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%079 52 30 07; www.hotelsilvestrino.it; Via Sassari 14; s €45-70, d €60-130; icon-hoursgifhclosed Dec & Jan; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifW)

Stintino's oldest hotel is still one of its best. Housed in a hard-to-miss red villa at the sea end of the main street, it offers summery rooms with cool aquamarine tiled floors, colourful paintings and unfussy furniture; some also have their own terrace. Downstairs, the excellent in-house restaurant specialises in local seafood.

SkipperITALIAN€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%079 52 34 60; Lungomare Cristoforo Colombo 57; panini €5, meals €25; icon-hoursgifh11am-11pm daily summer, 10.30am-8pm Tue-Sun winter)

A long-standing favourite, this casual bar-restaurant is a jack of all trades. You can sit down on the waterfront terrace and order anything from coffee and cocktails to zuppa di cozze (mussel soup), hamburgers, salads and panini.

8Getting There & Away

Between June and mid-September, Sardabus (icon-phonegif%079 51 05 54; www.sardabus.it) operates five daily buses to Stintino from Alghero and Alghero airport (€7, 50 minutes).

There are at least four weekday ARST buses (two on Sundays) to Stintino from Porto Torres (€2.50, 45 minutes) and Sassari (€3.70, 70 minutes). Services increase between June and September.

From May to October daily boats sail for the Isola dell'Asinara from the Porto Turistico in Stintino. Departures are generally around 9am to 9.30am, returning 5pm to 6pm. A simple return costs €18. Services are much reduced between November and April.

Sassari

Sassari, Sardinia's second-largest city, is a proud and cultured university town with a handsome historic centre and an unpretentious, workaday vibe.

Like many Italian towns it hides its charms behind an outer shell of drab apartment blocks and confusing, traffic-choked roads. But once through to the inner sanctum it opens up, revealing a grand centre of wide boulevards, impressive piazzas and stately palazzi. In the evocative and slightly rundown centro storico (historic centre), medieval alleyways hum with Dickensian activity as residents run about their daily business amid grimy facades and hidden churches.

1Sights

icon-top-choiceoMuseo Nazionale SannaMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%079 27 22 03; www.museosannasassari.beniculturali.it; Via Roma 64; adult/reduced €3/2, 1st Sun of month free; icon-hoursgifh9am-8pm Tue-Sat & 1st Sun of month, to 1pm Sun)

Sassari's premier museum, housed in a grand Palladian villa, boasts a comprehensive archaeological collection and an ethnographical section dedicated to Sardinian folk art. The highlight is the nuraghic bronzeware, including weapons, bracelets, votive boats and figurines depicting humans and animals.

icon-top-choiceoPiazza ItaliaPIAZZA

( GOOGLE MAP )

Sassari’s largest piazza is one of Sardinia’s most impressive public spaces. Covering about a hectare, it is surrounded by imposing 19th-century buildings, including the neoclassical Palazzo della Provincia ( GOOGLE MAP ; Piazza Italia), seat of the provincial government and, opposite, the neo-Gothic Palazzo Giordano ( GOOGLE MAP ; Piazza Italia), now home to the Banca Intesa SanPaolo. Presiding over everything is a statue of King Vittorio Emanuele II.

DuomoCATHEDRAL

(Cattedrale di San Nicola; GOOGLE MAP ; Piazza Duomo; icon-hoursgifh8.45am-noon Mon-Sat & 4.30-7pm Tue-Sat, 9-11.30am & 5-7pm Sun)

Sassari’s principal cathedral dazzles with its 18th-century baroque facade, a giddy free-for-all of statues, reliefs, friezes and busts. It's all a front, though, because inside the cathedral reverts to its true Gothic character. The facade masks a late-15th-century Catalan Gothic body, which was itself built over an earlier Romanesque church. Little remains of this, except for the 13th-century bell tower.

DON'T MISS

SADDLE UP FOR FESTIVAL FUN

Cavalcata Sarda (icon-hoursgifhMay), one of Sardinia’s highest-profile festivals, is held in Sassari on the second-last Sunday of May. Thousands of people converge on the city to participate in costumed processions, to sing and dance and watch fearless horse riders exhibit their acrobatic skills.

4Sleeping

icon-top-choiceoTanina B&BB&B

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%346 1812404; www.taninabandb.com; Viale Trento 14; s/d/tr €30/50/70; icon-wifigifW)

About 500m from Piazza Italia, this is a model B&B. Its three large guest rooms are lovingly maintained and decked out in old-school Italian style with original tiled floors, antique furniture and floral motifs. Each has its own external bathroom and there's a fully equipped communal kitchen for guest use.

Hotel Vittorio EmanueleHOTEL€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%079 23 55 38; www.hotelvittorioemanuele.ss.it; Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 100-102; s €44-54, d €54-150; icon-acongifaicon-internetgifiicon-wifigifW)

Occupying a renovated medieval palazzo (historic mansion), this friendly three-star provides corporate comfort at reasonable rates. Rooms are decent enough, if anonymous, and the location, on the main drag in the historic centre, is convenient for pretty much everywhere.

5Eating

Fainè alla Genovese SassuSARDINIAN

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%079 23 64 02; Via Usai 17; meals €10-15; icon-hoursgifh7.30-11.30pm Mon-Sat)

Modest, no-frills and much loved locally, this bare, white-tiled eatery is the place to try Sassari's famous fainè, thick pancakes made with chickpea flour and cooked like pizzas. There’s nothing else on the menu, but with various types to choose from – sausage, onions, mushrooms, anchovies – they're ideal for a cheap, tasty fill-up.

L'Antica HostariaRISTORANTE€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%079 20 00 66; www.lanticahostaria.eu; Via Cavour 55; meals €40; icon-hoursgifh1-3pm & 8-11.30pm Mon-Sat)

Hidden behind a chipped, low-key exterior, L’Antica Hostaria is a consistently top restaurant. In intimate, homey surroundings you're treated to inventive dishes rooted in Italian culinary traditions. Desserts are also impressive, and there's an excellent list of island and Italian wines.

8Information

Ospedale Civile SS AnnunziataHOSPITAL

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%079 206 10 00; Via De Nicola 14)

Hospital south of the city centre.

Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%079 200 80 72; www.turismosassari.it; Via Sebastiano Satta 13; icon-hoursgifh9am-1.30pm & 3-6pm Tue-Fri, 9am-1.30pm Sat)

The helpful staff can provide information on Sassari and the surrounding area.

8Getting There & Away

Sassari shares Alghero airport, about 28km west of the city at Fertilia. Up to nine daily buses run from the airport to Via Padre Zirano (€3.10, 30 minutes).

Intercity buses depart from and arrive at Via Padre Zirano. Services run to/from Alghero (€3.10, one hour, up to 10 daily), Porto Torres (€1.90, 30 minutes, hourly) and Castelsardo (€3.10, one hour, 11 weekdays, four Sundays). Further afield, there are also buses to Nuoro (€8.10, 1¾ hours, six daily) and Oristano (€8.10, two hours, two daily).

The main train station is just beyond the western end of the old town on Piazza Stazione. Direct trains run to Cagliari (€16.50, three to four hours, three daily), Oristano (€11, two to 2½ hours, four daily) and Olbia (€8.10, 1¾ hours, four daily).

Olbia, the Costa Smeralda & Gallura

The Costa Smeralda evokes Sardinia’s classic images: pearly-white beaches and weird, wind-whipped licks of rock tapering into emerald seas. The dazzling coastal strip that the Aga Khan bought for a pittance is today the playground of millionaires and A-listers. Come summer, scandal-hungry paparazzi haunt the marinas, zooming in on oligarchs cavorting with bikini-clad beauties on yachts so big they eclipse the sun.

A few kilometres inland, a very different vision of the good life emerges. Here, vine-striped hills roll to deeply traditional villages and mysterious nuraghi (Bronze Age fortified settlements), silent cork-oak woods and granite mountains. Immune to time and trends, the hinterland offers a refreshing contrast to the coast, best appreciated during a multiday getaway at a country agriturismo (farm-stay).

Further north the Gallura coast becomes wilder, the preserve of the dolphins, divers and windsurfers who splash around in the startlingly blue waters of La Maddalena marine reserve.

Olbia

icon-phonegif%0789 / Pop 59,370

Often ignored in the mad dash to the Costa Smeralda, Olbia has more to offer than first meets the eye. Look beyond its industrial outskirts and you’ll find a fetching city with a centro storico (historic centre) crammed with boutiques, wine bars and cafe-rimmed piazzas. Olbia is a refreshingly authentic and affordable alternative to the purpose-built resorts stretching to the north and south.

1Sights

icon-top-choiceoMuseo ArcheologicoMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; Isolotto di Peddone; icon-hoursgifh10am-1pm & 5-8pm Wed-Sun)icon-freeF

Architect Vanni Macciocco designed Olbia’s strikingly contemporary museum near the port. The museum spells out local history in artefacts, from Roman amulets and pottery to nuraghic finds. The highlight is the relic of a Roman vessel discovered in the old port. A multimedia display recreates the scene of the Vandals burning and sinking such ships in AD 450. Free audio guides are available in English.

Chiesa di San SimplicioCHURCH

( GOOGLE MAP ; Via San Simplicio; icon-hoursgifh7.30am-1pm & 3.30-8pm)

Considered to be Gallura’s most important medieval monument, this Romanesque granite church was built in the late 11th and early 12th centuries on what was then the edge of town. It is a curious mix of Tuscan and Lombard styles with little overt decoration other than a couple of 13th-century frescoes depicting medieval bishops.

4Sleeping

icon-top-choiceoPorto RomanoB&B

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%349 1927996; www.bedandbreakfastportoromano.it; Via A Nanni 2; d €65-90; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifW)

We love the chilled vibe and the heartfelt benvenuto at this welcoming B&B in an old family home near the train station. Light, spacious and well kept, the rooms have tiled floors and wood furnishings, and some come with balconies. Homey touches include the shared kitchen and barbecue area, and the friendly reception from owner Simonetta and her lovable dog, Lilly.

Hotel PanoramaHOTEL€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%0789 2 66 56; www.hotelpanoramaolbia.it; Via Giuseppe Mazzini 7; s €95-140, d €110-200, ste €170-300; icon-parkgifpicon-acongifaicon-wifigifW)

The name says it all: the roof terrace and 5th-floor superior rooms at this friendly, central hotel enjoy peerless views over the rooftops of Olbia to the sea and Monte Limbara. Even the standard rooms are fresh and elegant, with gleaming wooden floors and marble bathrooms, and there’s a whirlpool and sauna for quiet moments.

La Locanda del Conte MameliBOUTIQUE HOTEL€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%0789 2 30 08; www.lalocandadelcontemameli.com; Via delle Terme 8; r €89-159; icon-parkgifpicon-acongifaicon-wifigifW)

Raising the style stakes is this boutique hotel, housed in an 18th-century locanda (inn) built for Count Mameli. A wrought-iron balustrade twists up to chic caramel-cream rooms with Orosei marble bathrooms. The vaulted breakfast room boasts a pair of unique treasures: an original Roman well and a 1960s-vintage Lambretta motorcycle.

5Eating & Drinking

icon-top-choiceoDolceacquaITALIAN€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%0789 196 90 84; http://ristorantedolceacqua.com; Via Giacomo Pala 4; meals €30-40; icon-hoursgifh12.30-2pm & 7.30-10.30pm Tue-Sun, 7.30-10.30pm only mid-Jun–mid-Sep)

This smart, intimate bistro entices with a laid-back vibe, warm service and an appetising mix of Sardinian and Ligurian cuisine. Start with its decadent sampler of five seafood antipasti, then move on to Sardinian classics such as culurgiones or creative alternatives like millefoglie di orata alla ligure (bream cooked in oil, garlic, olives and wine, served between thin pastry layers).

icon-top-choiceoAgriturismo AgrisoleSARDINIAN€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%349 0848163; www.agriturismo-agrisole.com; Via Sole Ruiu 7, Località Casagliana; menu incl drinks €30; icon-hoursgifhdinner daily by reservation Apr-Sep)

Tucked serenely away in the countryside around 10km north of Olbia, this Gallurese stazzo (farmhouse) dishes up a feast of home cooking. Monica, your charming host, brings dish after marvellous dish to the table – antipasti, fregola (granular pasta), porceddu (roast suckling pig) and ricotta sweets. From Olbia, take the SS125 towards Arzachena/Palau, turning left at the signs at Km 327.800.

icon-top-choiceoMovida LoungeBAR

( GOOGLE MAP ; Via Porto Romano 4; icon-hoursgifh10am-2am)

Olbia's coolest new lounge bar draws locals for cocktails, wine, excellent food, DJs and live music. The vast space encompasses three distinct environments: a slick brick- and stone-walled resto-bar, a spacious courtyard under the palm trees out back (complete with sofas and a little AstroTurf terrace) and an underground wine bar in a vaulted cellar dating to the 17th century.

8Information

Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%0789 5 22 06; www.olbiaturismo.it; Piazza Terranova Pausania; icon-hoursgifh9am-8pm Apr-Sep, reduced hours Oct-Mar)

This helpful tourist office should be your first port of call for info on Olbia.

8Getting There & Away

Air

Olbia’s Aeroporto di Olbia Costa Smeralda ( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%0789 56 34 44; www.geasar.it) is about 5km southeast of the centre and handles flights from major Italian and European airports. It's the home airport for Meridiana, which flies to two dozen cities. Low-cost operators include Air Berlin, easyJet and Volotea. Destinations served include most mainland Italian airports as well as London, Paris, Madrid, Barcelona, Berlin, Amsterdam and Zurich.

Boat

Olbia’s ferry terminal, Stazione Marittima, is on Isola Bianca, an island connected to the town centre by the 1km Banchina Isola Bianca causeway. All the major ferry companies have counters here, including Moby Lines ( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%199 30 30 40; www.moby.it), Grimaldi Lines ( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%0789 183 55 64; www.grimaldi-lines.com) and Tirrenia ( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%199 30 30 40; www.tirrenia.it). There are frequent services, especially during the summer months, to Civitavecchia, Genoa, Livorno and Piombino.

You can book tickets at any travel agent in town, or directly at the port.

Bus

ARST (ARST; icon-phonegif%0789 5 53 00, 800 865042; www.arst.sardegna.it) buses run to Arzachena (€2.50, 45 minutes), Porto Cervo (€2.50, 1½ hours), Nuoro (€8.10, 2½ hours), Santa Teresa di Gallura (€4.30, 1½ hours) and Sassari (€8.10, 1½ hours). Get tickets from Bar della Caccia ( GOOGLE MAP ; Corso Vittorio Veneto 28; icon-hoursgifh5.30am-8pm Mon-Sat), just opposite the main bus stops ( GOOGLE MAP ) on Corso Vittorio Veneto, or from the self-service machine ( GOOGLE MAP ; Corso Umberto 166E) behind Olbia's train station.

Turmo Travel ( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%0789 2 14 87; www.gruppoturmotravel.com) runs two daily buses from Olbia to Cagliari (€19, 4½ hours), while Sun Lines (icon-phonegif%348 2609881, 0789 5 08 85; www.sunlineseliteservice.com) offers service between Olbia and various destinations on the Costa Smeralda.

Train

The station is off Corso Umberto. There are direct trains to Cagliari (€18, 3¼ hours, three daily), Oristano (€12.50, 2¼ hours, three daily), Sassari (€8.10, 1¾ hours, four daily) and Golfo Aranci (€2.50, 25 minutes, six daily).

Costa Smeralda & Around

Back in 1962, flamboyant millionaire Karim Aga Khan established a consortium to buy a strip of unspoiled coastline in northeastern Sardinia. Each investor paid roughly US$25,000 for a little piece of paradise, and the coast was christened Costa Smeralda (Emerald Coast) for its brilliant green-blue waters.

These days billionaire jet-setters cruise into Costa Smeralda’s marinas in mega-yachts like floating mansions, and models, royals, Russian oligarchs and balding media moguls come to frolic in its waters.

Starting at the Golfo di Cugnana, 17km north of Olbia, the Costa stretches 55km northwards to the Golfo di Arzachena. The ‘capital’ is the yachtie haven of Porto Cervo, although Porto Rotondo, a second marina developed in 1963, attracts plenty of paparazzi with its Silvio Berlusconi connections and its attractive seafront promenade.

Inland from the Costa Smeralda, the mountain communities of San Pantaleo and Arzachena offer a low-key counterpoint to the coastline's glitz and glamour.

1Sights & Activities

The Costa Smeralda's beaches are among the loveliest in the entire Mediterranean region. Inland, a mix of nuraghic sites, wineries and mountain scenery vie for your attention.

Coddu EcchjuARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE

( GOOGLE MAP ; €3; icon-hoursgifh9am-7pm)

Taking the Arzachena–Luogosanto road south, you can follow signs to one of the most important tombe dei giganti in Sardinia. The most visible part of it is the oval-shaped central stele (standing stone). Both slabs of granite, one balanced on top of the other, show an engraved frame that apparently symbolises a door to the hereafter, closed to the living. On either side of the stele stand further tall slabs of granite that form a kind of semicircular guard of honour around the tomb.

Tempio di MalchittuARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE

( GOOGLE MAP ; €3; icon-hoursgifh9am-7pm)

Accessible via a signposted track from the Nuraghe di Albucciu ticket office, 2km south of Arzachena, this temple dating back to 1500 BC is one of a few of its kind in Sardinia. Experts can only guess at its original purpose, but it appears it had a timber roof and was closed with a wooden door. Just as engaging as the ruins is the trail to get here, which affords lovely views over the surrounding countryside, strewn with granite boulders.

Cantine SurrauWINE

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%0789 8 29 33; www.vignesurrau.it; Località Chilvagghja; icon-hoursgifh10am-10pm May-Sep, to 9pm Apr & Oct, to 8pm Nov-Mar)

Cantine Surrau takes a holistic approach to winemaking. Take a spin of the cellar and the gallery showcasing Sardinian art before tasting some of the region’s crispest Vermentino white and beefiest Cannonau red wines.

DON'T MISS

COSTA SMERALDA BEACH CRAWL

You'll need your own set of wheels to hop between the most sublime beaches on the Costa Smeralda, but it's worth the effort. They're super-busy in July and August, so avoid peak summer season if you want these bays to yourself. The following (listed from north to south) are all between Porto Cervo and Porto Rotondo.

Spiaggia del Grande & Piccolo PeveroBEACH

( GOOGLE MAP )

This twinset of stunning bays, 3km south of Porto Cervo, fulfil the Sardinian paradise dream with their floury sands and dazzlingly blue, shallow water. There's a small beach bar, too.

Spiaggia RomazzinoBEACH

( GOOGLE MAP )

Less busy than some, this curving sandy bay has remarkably clear water and is named after the rosemary bushes that grow in such abundance. Look beyond the main bay to smaller coves for more seclusion.

Spiaggia del PrincipeBEACH

( GOOGLE MAP )

Also known as Portu Li Coggi, this magnificent crescent of white sand is bound by unspoiled macchia and startlingly clear blue waters. Apparently it's the Aga Khan's favourite. It's around 2.5km northeast of Capriccioli.

Spiaggia CapriccioliBEACH

( GOOGLE MAP )

Dotted with granite boulders and backed by fragrant macchia, this gorgeous half-moon bay has water that goes through the entire spectrum of blues and is shallow enough for tots. Umbrellas and sunbeds are available to rent.

Spiaggia Liscia RuiaBEACH

( GOOGLE MAP )

Though busy in peak season, this beach is a beauty – a long arc of pale, fine sand and crystal-clear water. It's close to the neo-Moorish fantasy that is Hotel Cala di Volpe.

4Sleeping

B&B La MeSendaB&B

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%0789 8 19 50; www.lamesenda.com; Loc Malchittu; d €70-100)

Immersed in peaceful countryside along the Tempio di Malchittu trail, this converted stone and stucco farmhouse makes an idyllic spot for an overnight stay. Simple rooms with exposed beams face onto a courtyard with a 500-year-old olive tree, a hot tub and comfortable spaces for lounging. Owners Judith (from French Polynesia) and Mario (from Sardinia) serve a delicious homemade breakfast.

icon-top-choiceoB&B Lu PastruccialedduB&B€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%0789 8 17 77; www.pastruccialeddu.com; Località Lu Pastruccialeddu, Arzachena; s €70-100, d €90-120, ste €120-150; icon-parkgifpicon-swimgifs)

This is the real McCoy, a smashing B&B housed in a typical stone farmstead, with pristine rooms, a beautiful pool and two resident donkeys. It’s run by the ultra-hospitable Caterina Ruzittu, who prepares the sumptuous breakfasts – a vast spread of biscuits, yoghurt, freshly baked cakes, salami, cheese and cereals.

icon-top-choiceoCa’ La SomaraB&B€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%0789 9 89 69; www.calasomara.it; s €58-98, d €80-148; icon-parkgifpicon-swimgifs)

Follow the donkey signs to Laura Lagattolla's welcoming rural retreat, 1km north of San Pantaleo. A relaxed, ramshackle farm, it offers simple guest rooms and endless opportunities for downtime: swinging in a hammock, strolling the gardens, or lounging poolside surrounded by rocky crags. Marvellous breakfasts featuring home-grown produce are served in the rustic dining room.

B&B SmeraldaB&B€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%0789 9 98 11; www.bbsmeralda.com; Villaggio Faras; d €80-140; icon-acongifaicon-internetgifiicon-wifigifW)

Straddling a steep hillside 1km above Poltu Quatu's fjord-like harbour, this charming B&B offers three comfortable bedrooms with pretty tiled bathrooms. The real stars here are the outdoor whirlpool tub surrounded by sculpted rocks and the tantalising sea views from the verandah, where you can enjoy Luciana’s freshly made breads and pastries at breakfast.

5Eating & Drinking

Aruanã ChurrascariaBRAZILIAN€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%0789 90 60 85; www.aruana.it; Via Degli Oleandri; buffet €40; icon-hoursgifh8pm-1am)

With romantically lit tables set amid garden terraces that cascade down from a boulder-strewn hillside, this Brazilian steakhouse offers that rare combination of classy setting and top-notch food. Relocated to Poltu Quatu in 2017, Aruanã specialises in Brazilian-style grilled meats. Serve yourself at will from the all-you-can-eat buffet; drinks cost extra.

Ristorante La RoccaSARDINIAN€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%0789 93 30 11; www.ristorante-larocca.com; Loc Pulicinu; icon-hoursgifh12.30-2.30pm & 7pm-midnight)

With black-clad waiters and impeccably fresh seafood ('choose any shellfish living in the aquarium'), La Rocca offers dependable quality with a resolutely old-school vibe. It's the kind of place where you'll find Sardinian families lingering over a long lunch or celebratory dinner. Look for it southwest of town along the main road towards Cannigione.

SpinnakerMODERN ITALIAN€€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%0789 9 12 26; www.ristorantespinnaker.com; Liscia di Vacca; meals €40-55; icon-hoursgifh12.30-2.30pm & 7.30-10pm daily Jun-Sep, closed Wed Apr, May & Oct)

This fashionable restaurant buzzes with a good-looking crowd, who come for the stylish ambience and fabulous seafood. Pair dishes such as calamari with fresh artichokes or rock lobster with a local Vermentino white. The restaurant is on the road between Porto Cervo and Baia Sardinia.

8Getting There & Away

ARST and Sun Lines operate buses from Olbia to the Costa Smeralda, but to properly explore all the nooks and crannies of this beautiful coastline, you'll want your own wheels. The main coastal road changes names a time or two as you make your way along the coast: known as SP73 near Porto Redondo, it becomes SP94 closer to Porto Cervo, and SP59 as you continue west through Poltu Quatu to Baia Sardinia.

Santa Teresa di Gallura

icon-phonegif%0789 / Pop 5230

Bright and breezy Santa Teresa di Gallura occupies a prime seafront position on Gallura’s north coast. The resort gets extremely busy during high season, yet somehow manages to retain a distinct local character, making it an agreeable alternative to the more soulless resorts on the Costa Smeralda.

The town was established by Savoy rulers in 1808 to help combat smugglers, but the modern town grew up as a result of the tourism boom since the early 1960s. Santa Teresa’s history is caught up with Corsica as much as it is with Sardinia. Over the centuries plenty of Corsicans have settled here, and the local dialect is similar to that of southern Corsica.

1Sights & Activities

Spiaggia Rena BiancaBEACH

( GOOGLE MAP )

The 'just like the Caribbean' comments come thick and fast when it comes to this bay – a glorious sweep of pale sand lapped by shallow, crystal-clear aquamarine water. From the eastern tip, a trail threads along the coastline past granite boulders and formations that fire the imagination with their incredible shapes.

icon-top-choiceoCapo TestaWALKING, SWIMMING

( GOOGLE MAP )

Four kilometres west of Santa Teresa, this extraordinary lighthouse-topped headland resembles a vast sculptural garden. Giant boulders lie strewn about the grassy slopes, their weird and wonderful forms the result of centuries of wind erosion. The Romans quarried granite here, as did the Pisans centuries later.

A couple of beaches lie to either side of the narrow isthmus that leads out to the headland: Rena di Levante and Rena di Ponente, where you can rent surfing gear, beach umbrellas and sunloungers.

Consorzio delle BoccheBOATING

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%0789 75 51 12; www.consorziobocche.com; Piazza Vittorio Emanuele; icon-hoursgifh9am-1pm & 5pm-7.30pm May, Jun & Sep, to 12.30am Jul & Aug)

This outfit runs various excursions, including trips to the Maddalena islands and down the Costa Smeralda (summer only). These cost around €45/25 per adult/child and include lunch (excluding drinks).

4Sleeping & Eating

icon-top-choiceoB&B Domus de JanasB&B€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%338 4990221; www.bbdomusdejanas.it; Via Carlo Felice 20a; s €70-100, d €80-150, q €130-170; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifW)

Daria and Simone are your affable hosts at this sumptuous six-room B&B smack in the centre of town (as photos on the wall attest, the rambling home has belonged to Daria's family since her great-great-grandmother's days). The colourfully decorated rooms are spacious and regally comfortable, the rooftop terrace enjoys cracking sea views, and guests rave about the varied, abundant self-service breakfast.

Hotel ModernoHOTEL€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%393 9177814, 0789 75 42 33; www.modernohotel.eu; Via Umberto 39; s €65-80, d €75-150, tr €105-180; icon-acongifa)

This is a homey, family-run pick near the piazza. Rooms are bright and airy with little overt decor but traditional blue-and-white Gallurese bedspreads and tiny balconies.

Il GrottinoMEDITERRANEAN€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%0789 75 42 32; Via del Mare 14; pizzas €5-14, meals €35-45; icon-hoursgifhnoon-3pm & 7-11.30pm summer)

Il Grottino sets a rustic picture with bare, grey stone walls and warm, low lighting. In keeping with the look, the food is wholesome and hearty with no-nonsense pastas, fresh seafood, juicy grilled meats and wood-fired pizzas.

La Locanda dei MoriSEAFOOD€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%0789 75 51 68; www.locandadeimori.com; SP90, Km 5; menus €33-43; icon-hoursgifh8-11pm Jun-Sep)

Immersed in a country setting just off the main road 6km south of Santa Teresa, this lovely agriturismo spreads a sea of tables onto its open-air terrace each summer. Guests come from miles around for the Locanda's multicourse menu of fresh seafood. Wine, water, coffee and after-dinner drinks are all included in the price.

icon-top-choiceoAgriturismo SaltaraSARDINIAN€€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%0789 75 55 97; www.agriturismosaltara.it; Località Saltara; meals €40-60; icon-hoursgifh7-11pm; icon-familygifc)

Natalia and Gian Mario welcome you warmly at this agriturismo, 10km south of town off the SP90 (follow signs up a dirt track). Tables are scenically positioned under the trees for a home-cooked feast. Wood-fired bread and garden-vegetable antipasti are a delicious lead to dishes such as pulilgioni (ricotta-filled ravioli with orange zest) and roast suckling pig or wild boar.

8Information

Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%0789 75 41 27; www.comunesantateresagallura.it; Piazza Vittorio Emanuele 24; icon-hoursgifh9am-1pm & 4-6pm)

Very helpful, with loads of information.

8Getting There & Away

Moby Lines ( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%0789 75 14 49, 199 30 30 40; www.mobylines.it) and Blu Navy ( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%0789 75 55 70; www.blunavytraghetti.com) each run three to four car ferries daily from Santa Teresa to Bonifacio, Corsica (adult/car €25/55, 50 minutes). Between November and March services are drastically reduced.

Departing from the bus terminus on Via Eleonora d’Arborea, ARST buses run to/from Arzachena (€3.10, 1¼ hours, five daily), Olbia (€4.30, two hours, seven daily), Castelsardo (€4.90, 1½ hours, two daily) and Sassari (€6.70, 2½ hours, three daily). Turmo Travel (icon-phonegif%0789 2 14 87; www.gruppoturmotravel.com) operates a daily service to/from Cagliari (€19.50, six hours), as well as a summer service to Olbia airport (€4.30, 1½ hours, six daily) via Arzachena and Palau.

Palau & Arcipelago di La Maddalena

Off Sardinia's northeastern tip, Palau is a lively summer resort crowded with surf shops, boutiques, bars and restaurants. It’s also the main gateway to the wind-sculpted granite islands and jewel-coloured waters of Arcipelago di La Maddalena.

The only town of any size on the islands is La Maddalena, which makes a good base with its bustling core of guesthouses, restaurants and cafes. The adjacent Isola Caprera, reached by a causeway just east of La Maddalena, was the longtime home of 19th-century Italian revolutionary Giuseppe Garibaldi. To visit the archipelago's uninhabited smaller islands, check out the daily boat tours from Palau or La Maddalena, which stop in at some of Sardinia's most idyllic coves and beaches.

1Sights & Activities

icon-top-choiceoParco Nazionale dell'Arcipelago di La MaddalenaNATIONAL PARK

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.lamaddalenapark.it)

Established in 1996, Parco Nazionale dell’Arcipelago di La Maddalena consists of seven main islands and several smaller granite islets off Sardinia's northeastern coast. Over the centuries the prevailing maestrale (northwesterly wind) has helped mould the granite into the bizarre natural sculptures that festoon the archipelago. The spectacular seascapes of La Maddalena's outer islands are best explored by boat, although the two main islands have plenty of charm with their sun-baked ochre buildings, cobbled piazzas and infectious holiday atmosphere.

Roccia dell’OrsoVIEWPOINT

( GOOGLE MAP ; trail adult/reduced €3/2, parking €3; icon-hoursgifh9am-sunset; icon-familygifc)

This weather-beaten granite sculpture sits on a high point 6km east of Palau. The Roccia dell’Orso (Bear Rock) looks considerably less bearlike up close, resembling more – dare we say it? – a dragon. Analogies aside, the granite formations are extraordinary, as are the far-reaching views of the coast from up here. From the parking lot it's a 10- to 15-minute climb.

Fortezza di Monte AlturaFORT

( GOOGLE MAP ; adult/reduced €5/2.50; icon-hoursgifhguided tours 9.15am-12.15pm & 5.15-7.15pm Jun-Aug, 10.15am-12.15pm & 3.15-5.15pm Apr, May & Sep–mid-Oct)

Standing sentinel on a rocky crag, this sturdy 19th-century bastion was built to help defend the north coast and Arcipelago di La Maddalena from invasion – something it was never called on to do. A guided 45-minute tour leads you to watchtowers and battlements with panoramic views out to sea. The fortress is signposted off the SS125, 3km west of town.

Sardinia Island Tours/Natour SardiniaBOATING

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%Kevin 391 7327232, Rodolfo 339 4774472; www.sardiniaislandtours.com; Via Guerrazzi 4; full-day tour €60)

Sharing an office near the port, these two companies work in tandem to provide excellent multilingual tours of the Maddalena archipelago. In addition to visiting local beaches, guides Kevin and Rodolfo offer hikes to local fortresses dating back to WWII and Napoleon's ill-fated attempt to take over Isola Maddalena in 1793. Lunch, wine and water are included in the tour price.

NautilusDIVING

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%0789 70 90 58, 340 6339006; www.divesardegna.com; Piazza Fresi 8)

There’s some excellent diving in the marine park. This PADI five-star dive centre runs dives to 40 sites, with single dives starting at around €55. Kids’ Bubblemaker courses are available.

4Sleeping & Eating

icon-top-choiceoB&B Petite MaisonB&B

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%0789 73 84 32, 340 6463722; www.lapetitmaison.net; Via Livenza 7, La Maddalena; d €85-110; icon-wifigifW)

Liberally sprinkled with paintings and art-deco furnishings, this B&B is a five-minute amble from the main square. Miriam’s artistically presented breakfasts, with fresh homemade goodies, are served in a bougainvillea-draped garden. Credit cards not accepted.

L'Orso e Il MareB&B

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%331 2222000; www.orsoeilmare.com; Vicolo Diaz 1; d €55-110, tr €85-145; icon-acongifa)

Pietro gives his guests a genuinely warm welcome at this two-room B&B, just steps from Piazza Fresi. The spacious rooms sport cool blue-and-white colour schemes and homey amenities such as fridges, kettles and corkscrews in each room. Breakfast is a fine spread of cakes, biscuits and fresh fruit salad.

Del PorticcioloSARDINIAN

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%0789 70 70 51; Via Omero; pizzas €4-9, meals €25-35; icon-hoursgifh12.15-2pm & 7.15-10.30pm Sat-Thu)

Locals swear by the authentic antipasti, pasta and fresh fish at this no-frills restaurant just south of the harbour. Stop by for a good-value lunch, or in the evening when chefs fire up the pizza ovens.

8Getting There & Away

Boat

Car ferries to Isola Maddalena are operated by Delcomar ( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%0789 70 92 28; www.delcomar.it) and Maddalena Lines ( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%0789 73 91 65; www.maddalenalines.it). Boats run every 15 to 30 minutes during daylight hours, then roughly hourly from midnight to 5.30am, with Delcomar offering the most frequent service. The 15-minute crossing costs between €3.40 and €5 per passenger and €7.30 to €12.50 per car (one way).

Bus

ARST buses connect Palau with Olbia (€3.10, 1¼ hours, eight daily), Santa Teresa di Gallura (€2.50, 45 minutes, five daily) and Arzachena (€1.90, 30 minutes, five daily).

Nuoro & the East

Nowhere else in Sardinia is nature such an overwhelming force as in the wild, wild east, where the Supramonte’s imperious limestone mountains roll down to the Golfo di Orosei’s cliffs and startling aquamarine waters. Who knows where that winding country road might lead you? Perhaps to deep valleys concealing prehistoric caves and Bronze Age nuraghi, to the lonesome villages of the Barbagia steeped in bandit legends, or to forests where wild pigs snuffle amid centuries-old holm oaks. Neither time nor trend obsessed, this region is refreshingly authentic.

Outdoor action is everywhere: along the coast where you can drop anchor in a string of pearly white bays, upon the cliffs where you can multi-pitch climb above the sea, on old mule trails best explored by mountain bike, and atop peaks and ravines only reachable on foot. True, the Costa Smeralda attracts more celebrities, but the real rock stars and rolling stones are right here.

DON'T MISS

FESTIVALS OF NUORO'S INTERIOR

Nuoro province boasts some of Sardinia's most colourful and characteristic festivals. Topping the list is the Festa di Sant'Antonio Abate, held In mid-January in the town of Mamoiada, 20km south of Nuoro. Bonfires rage throughout town for two nights starting on 16 January, as half-human, half-animal mamuthones parade through the streets – clad in sheepskins and shaking heavy bells – accompanied by white-masked, red-jacketed issohadores who go about town lassoing young women.

The rest of the year, you can get a vicarious taste of Mamoiada's festivities at the small but engaging Museo delle Maschere Mediterranee ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.museodellemaschere.it; Piazza Europa 15; adult/reduced €5/3; icon-hoursgifh9am-1pm & 3-7pm). Film footage documents the making of masks and bells, along with the processions and bonfires that mark Mamoiada's big event. A second room displays masks and costumes from three of Nuoro province's most traditional carnivals (Mamoiada, Ovodda and Ottana).

Nuoro

icon-phonegif%0784 / Pop 37,100

Once an isolated hilltop village and a byword for banditry, Nuoro had its cultural renaissance in the 19th and early 20th centuries when it became a hotbed of artistic talent. Today museums in the historic centre pay homage to local legends including Nobel Prize–winning author Grazia Deledda, acclaimed poet Sebastiano Satta, novelist Salvatore Satta and sculptor Francesco Ciusa. Further enhancing Nuoro's modern-day cultural vitality are the local university, with its graduate program in environmental studies and sustainable development, and the city's recently renovated ethnographic museum.

Nuoro’s spectacular backdrop is the granite peak of Monte Ortobene (955m), capped by a 7m-high bronze statue of the Redentore (Christ the Redeemer). The thickly wooded summit commands dress-circle views of the valley below and the limestone mountains enshrouding Oliena opposite.

1Sights

icon-top-choiceoMuseo Etnografico SardoMUSEUM

(Museo del Costume; GOOGLE MAP ; www.isresardegna.it; Via Antonio Mereu 56; adult/reduced €5/3; icon-hoursgifh10am-1pm & 3-8pm Tue-Sun mid-Mar–Sep, 10am-1pm & 3-7pm Oct–mid-Mar)

Beautifully renovated in 2016, this museum zooms in on Sardinian folklore, harbouring a peerless collection of filigree jewellery, carpets, tapestries, rich embroidery, musical instruments, weapons and masks. The highlight is the traditional costume display – the styles, colours and patterns speaking volumes about the people and their villages. Look out for fiery red skirts from the fiercely independent mountain villages, the Armenian-influenced dresses of Orgosolo and Desulo finished with a blue-and-yellow silk border, and the burkalike headdresses of Ittiri and Osilo.

Museo CiusaMUSEUM

(Museo Tribu; GOOGLE MAP ; Piazza Santa Maria della Neve; adult/reduced €3/2; icon-hoursgifh10am-8pm Tue-Sun Jun-Sep, 10am-1pm & 3-7pm Tue-Sun Oct-May)

This recently reopened space has an entire wing devoted to the works of renowned Nuoro-born sculptor Francesco Ciusa (1883–1949). It also houses the permanent collection of Nuoro's excellent art museum, displaying works by the island’s top 20th-century artists, including painters Antonio Ballero, Giovanni Ciusa-Romagna and Mario Delitala, abstract artist Mauro Manca and sculptor Costantino Nivola.

Museo DeleddianoMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.isresardegna.it; Via Grazia Deledda 44; adult/reduced €3/2; icon-hoursgifh9am-1pm & 3-6pm Tue-Sun)

Up in the oldest part of town, the birthplace of Grazia Deledda (1871–1936) has been converted into this lovely little museum. The rooms, full of Deledda memorabilia, have been carefully restored to show what a well-to-do 19th-century Nuorese house looked like. Best of all is the material relating to her Nobel Prize – a congratulatory telegram from Italian king Vittorio Emanuele III and photos of the prize-giving ceremony, which show her, proud and tiny, surrounded by a group of stiffly suited men.

zFestivals & Events

Sagra del RedentoreRELIGIOUS

(Festa del Redentore; icon-hoursgifhAug)

The Sagra del Redentore (Feast of Christ the Redeemer), in the last week of August, is Nuoro's main event and one of Sardinia’s most exuberant folkloric festivals, attracting costumed participants from across the island for parades, music making and dancing. On the evening of 28 August a torchlit procession, starting at the Chiesa della Solitudine ( GOOGLE MAP ; Viale della Solitudine), winds its way through the city.

4Sleeping & Eating

icon-top-choiceoCasa SolottiB&B

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%328 6028975, 0784 3 39 54; www.casasolotti.it; Località Monte Ortobene; per person €26-35; icon-parkgifpicon-acongifaicon-wifigifW)

This B&B reclines in a rambling garden amid woods and walking trails near the top of Monte Ortobene, 5km from central Nuoro. Decorated with stone and beams, the elegantly rustic rooms have tremendous views of the surrounding valley and the Golfo di Orosei in the distance. Staying here is a delight.

Nothing is too much trouble for your hosts, Mario and Frédérique, who can arrange everything from horse riding to packed lunches and guided hikes in the Supramonte.

Silvia e PaoloB&B

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%0784 3 12 80; www.silviaepaolo.it; Corso Garibaldi 58; s €33-40, d €55-65, tr €77; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifW)

Silvia and Paolo run this sweet B&B in the historic centre. Cheerful family decor makes you feel right at home in the bright, spacious rooms, while up top there’s a roof terrace for observing the action on Corso Garibaldi by day and stargazing by night. Note that two of the three guest rooms share a bathroom.

icon-top-choiceoIl PorticoSARDINIAN€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%0784 21 76 41, 331 9294119; www.ilporticonuoro.it; Via Monsignor Bua 13; meals €35-45; icon-hoursgifh12.30-2.30pm & 8-10.30pm Tue-Sat, 12.30-2.30pm Sun)

You’ll receive a warm welcome at this restaurant, where abstract paintings grace the walls and jazzy music plays. Behind the scenes, the talented Graziano and Vania rustle up a feast of local fare such as spaghetti ai ricci (spaghetti with sea urchins) and fresh gnocchi with lamb ragù. Save room for the delectable caramel-nougat semifreddo.

8Information

Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%0784 44 18 23; www.provincia.nuoro.it; Piazza Italia 8; icon-hoursgifh8.30am-2pm Mon-Fri, plus 3.30-7pm Tue)

Multilingual staff provide plenty of useful information on Nuoro and environs.

8Getting There & Away

ARST (icon-phonegif%0784 29 08 00; www.arst.sardegna.it) buses run from the bus station on Viale Sardegna to destinations throughout the province and beyond. These include Dorgali (€2.50, 45 minutes, six daily), Olbia (€8.10, 2¾ to 3½ hours, three daily), Oliena (€1.90, 20 minutes) and Cagliari (€12.50, 2¾ hours).

The train station is west of the town centre at the corner of Via Lamarmora and Via G Ciusa Romagna. ARST operates trains from Nuoro to Macomer (€4.90, 70 minutes, six daily Monday to Saturday), where you can connect with mainline Trenitalia trains to Cagliari, Olbia and Sassari.

Supramonte

Southeast of Nuoro rises the great limestone massif of the Supramonte, its sheer walls like an iron curtain just beyond Oliena. Despite its intimidating aspect, it’s actually not as high as it seems – its peak, Monte Corrasi, only reaches 1463m – but it is impressively wild, the bare limestone plateau pitted with ravines and ragged defiles. The raw, uncompromising landscape is made all the more thrilling by its one-time notoriety as the heart of Sardinia’s bandit country.

The Supramonte provides some magnificent hiking. But because much of the walking is over limestone, there are often few discernible tracks to follow, and in spring and autumn you should carefully check the weather conditions. You can engage a local guide in towns throughout the region, including Oliena, Dorgali and Baunei.

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

VALLE DI LANAITTU

Immerse yourself in the karst wilderness of the Supramonte by hiking, cycling or driving through this enchanting 7km valley south of Su Gologone, signposted off the Oliena–Dorgali road. Towering limestone mountains, cliffs and caves lord it over the narrow valley, scattered with natural and archaeological wonders. Rosemary and mastic, grapes and olives flourish here, along with wildlife such as martens, birds of prey, wild boar and goats. Near the valley's southern end it's possible to visit a pair of caves – Grotta di Sa Ohe ( GOOGLE MAP ; €2; icon-hoursgifh9am-6pm Apr-Sep) and Grotta Corbeddu ( GOOGLE MAP ; €5; icon-hoursgifh9am-7pm Apr-Sep) – and the nuraghic site of Sa Sedda ‘e Sos Carros, with its unique circular Temple of the Sacred Well.

Oliena & Around

icon-phonegif%0784 / Pop 7140

Few images in Sardinia are as arresting as the magnificent peak of Monte Corrasi (1463m) when the dusky light makes its limestone summit glow. From Nuoro you can see Oliena’s multicoloured rooftops cupped in the mountain’s palm. The village itself is an unassuming place with a grey-stone centre, but it is a handy base for exploring the Supramonte.

Oliena was probably founded in Roman times, although its name is a reference to the Ilienses people, descendants of a group of Trojans who supposedly escaped Troy and settled in the area. The arrival of the Jesuits in the 17th century was better documented and set the scene for the village’s modern fame. The eager fathers helped promote the local silk industry and encouraged farmers to cultivate the surrounding slopes. The lessons were learnt well, and now Oliena is famous for its beautiful silk embroidery and its blood-red Cannonau wine, Nepente di Oliena. Oliena is also the home town of Gianfranco Zola, English football’s favourite Sardinian import, who was born here in 1966.

1Sights & Activities

icon-top-choiceoSu GologoneSPRING

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.sorgentisugologone.it; adult/reduced €2/1.50; icon-hoursgifh9am-7pm)

Tucked beneath sheer limestone cliffs, this gorgeous mountain spring is the final outflow point for Italy's largest underground river system. Water percolating through the countless fissures and sinkholes in the Supramonte's high country eventually gathers here and flows out to join the Cedrino river. The spring is beautiful any time, but try to catch it around 1pm when the sun passes directly overhead, turning the water brilliant green. Afterwards, the adjacent tree-shaded park is perfect for a picnic or an afternoon swim.

To get here from Oliena, follow the SP46 east 6km towards Dorgali, then turn right following signs for Su Gologone until the road dead ends into a parking lot.

Cooperativa EnisADVENTURE SPORTS

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%0784 28 83 63; www.coopenis.it; Località Monte Maccione)

This highly regarded adventure-sports company offers guided treks and 4WD excursions into the Supramonte and along the Golfo di Orosei. Destinations include Tiscali, Gola Su Gorropu, Cala Luna and the Supramonte di Orgosolo and Murales, with prices starting at €37 for a half-day trek or €43 for a full day. A packed lunch bumps up the cost by €5.

GET A GUIDE

If you fancy striking out into the Supramonte, here's our pick of the best guides:

Corrado Conca ( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%347 2903101; www.corradoconca.it; Via Barzini 15, Sassari) A brilliant companion for Sardinia's legendary seven-day Selvaggio Blu trek.

Cooperativa Gorropu Sandra and Franco offer trekking, canyoning and caving excursions in the Supramonte.

Cooperative Ghivine ( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%338 8341618; www.ghivine.com; Via Lamarmora 31) A one-stop action shop, arranging treks to classic destinations like Tiscali and Gola Su Gorropu.

Sardegna Nascosta ( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%349 4434665, 0784 28 85 50; www.sardegnanascosta.it; Via Masiloghi 35) Organises trekking, canoeing, climbing and caving excursions with a cultural focus.

4Sleeping & Eating

icon-top-choiceoAgriturismo GuthiddaiAGRITURISMO

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%0784 28 60 17; www.agriturismoguthiddai.com; Nuoro-Dorgali bivio Su Gologone; d €98-115, half-board per person €70-80; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifW)

On the road to Su Gologone, this bucolic, whitewashed farmstead sits at the foot of rugged mountains, surrounded by fig, olive and fruit trees. Olive oil, Cannonau wine and fruit and veg are all home produced. Rooms are tiled in pale greens and cobalt blues. From Oliena, head to Dorgali, taking the turn-off right towards Valle di Lanaittu.

Su GologoneHOTEL€€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%0784 28 75 12; www.sugologone.it; Località Su Gologone; d incl half-board €254-392; icon-parkgifpicon-acongifaicon-wifigifWicon-swimgifs)

Treat yourself to a spot of rural luxury at Su Gologone, nestled in glorious countryside 7km east of Oliena. Rooms are decorated with original artworks and handicrafts, and the facilities are top notch – it has a pool, a spa, a wine cellar and a restaurant ( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%0784 28 75 12; www.sugologone.it; Località Su Gologone; meals €35-45; icon-hoursgifh12.30-3pm & 8-10pm), which is considered one of Sardinia’s best.

Dorgali & Around

icon-phonegif%0784 / Pop 8550

Dorgali is a down-to-earth town with a grandiose backdrop, nestled at the foot of Monte Bardia and framed by vineyards and olive groves. Limestone peaks rear above the centre’s pastel-coloured houses and steep, narrow streets, luring hikers and climbers to their summits.

For more outdoor escapades, the dramatic Golfo di Orosei and spectacularly rugged Supramonte are within easy striking distance.

1Sights & Activities

icon-top-choiceoGola Su GorropuCANYON

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%328 8976563; www.gorropu.info; adult/reduced €5/3.50; icon-hoursgifh10.30am-5pm)

Sardinia's most spectacular gorge is flanked by limestone walls towering up to 500m in height. The endemic (and endangered) Aquilegia nuragica plant grows here, and at quieter times it’s possible to spot mouflon and golden eagles. From the Rio Flumineddu riverbed you can wander about 1km into the boulder-strewn ravine without climbing gear; follow the markers. Near the narrowest point (just 4m wide) you reach the formidable Hotel Supramonte, a tough 8b multipitch climb up a vertical 400m rock face.

To hike into the gorge, you’ll need sturdy shoes and sufficient water. There are two main routes. The most dramatic begins from the car park opposite Hotel Silana at the Genna ‘e Silana pass on the SS125 at Km 183. The mostly easygoing descent of the 8km trail takes 1½ to two hours, while the climb back up is considerably tougher; allow at least four hours for the return trek.

The second and slightly easier hiking route to Gorropu is via the Sa Barva bridge, about 15km south of Dorgali. Take the SS125 and look for signs for Gola Su Gorropu and Tiscali between Km 200 and Km 201. Follow this road for 10.5km until the asphalt finishes (about 20 minutes). Park here and cross the Sa Barva bridge, after which you’ll see the trail signposted off to the left. From here it’s a scenic two-hour hike along the Rio Flumineddu to the mouth of the gorge (14km return).

icon-top-choiceoTiscaliARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.museoarcheologicodorgali.it/wp/Reperto_Sito/tiscali; adult/reduced €5/2; icon-hoursgifh9am-7pm daily May-Sep, to 5pm Oct-Apr, closed in rainy weather)

Hidden in a mountain-top cave deep in the Valle Lanaittu, the mysterious nuraghic village of Tiscali is one of Sardinia’s must-see archaeological highlights. Dating from the 6th century BC and populated until Roman times, the village was discovered in the late 19th century. At the time it was relatively intact, but since then grave robbers have done a pretty good job of looting the place, stripping the conical stone-and-mud huts down to the skeletal remains that you see today.

Despite the fragmentary condition of the ruins themselves, Tiscali is an awe-inspiring sight: jumbled stone foundations amid holm oak and turpentine trees huddled in the eerie twilight of the limestone overhang. The inhabitants of the nearby nuraghic site Sa Sedda ‘e Sos Carros used it as a hiding place from the Romans, and its inaccessibility ensured that the Sards were able to hold out here until well into the 2nd century BC.

The hike to Tiscali is pure drama, striking into the heart of the limestone Supramonte. The trailhead is at the Sa Barva bridge over the green Rio Flumineddu, the same starting point as the route to Gola Su Gorropu. The 7km trail is signposted and takes between 1½ and two hours; allow five hours for the return hike, including breaks and a visit to Tiscali. You can go it alone, or join one of the guided tours offered by companies in Oliena, Dorgali and Cala Gonone (around €40 per person).

Grotta di IspinigoliCAVE

( GOOGLE MAP ; adult/reduced €7.50/3.50; icon-hoursgifhhourly tours 10am-6pm Jul & Aug, to 5pm Jun & Sep, 10am-noon & 3-5pm Apr, May & Oct)

A short drive north of Dorgali, the fairy-tale-like Grotta di Ispinigoli is a veritable forest of glittering rock formations, including the world's second-tallest stalagmite (the highest is in Mexico and stands at 40m). Unlike most caves of this type, which you enter from the side, here you descend 60m inside a giant 'well', at whose centre stands the magnificent 38m-high stalagmite. You can admire the tremendous rock formations, many of them sprouting from the walls like giant mushrooms and broccoli.

4Sleeping & Eating

Sa Corte AnticaB&B

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%349 8401371; www.sacorteantica.it; Via Mannu 17; d €50-60, tr €75-90; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifW)

Gathered around an old stone courtyard, this B&B housed in an 18th-century townhouse oozes charm from every brick and beam. The rooms are traditional and peaceful, with reed ceilings and wrought-iron bedsteads. Enjoy homemade bread and biscotti at breakfast.

icon-top-choiceoRistorante IspinigoliSARDINIAN€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%0784 9 52 68; www.hotelispinigoli.com; meals €30-36; icon-hoursgifh12.30-2.30pm & 7.30-9.30pm)

Linger for dinner and panoramic sunset views at the Ristorante Ispinigoli, just below the entrance to the Grotta di Ispingoli. Located in Hotel Ispinigoli, the well-known restaurant rolls out local delights such as stone bass-stuffed black ravioli with mullet roe, herb-infused roast kid and a waistline-expanding selection of formaggi.

8Getting There & Away

ARST buses serve Nuoro (€2.50, 50 minutes, eight daily Monday to Saturday, four Sunday). Up to seven (four on Sundays) shuttle back and forth between Dorgali and Cala Gonone (€1.30, 20 minutes). You can pick up buses at several stops along Via Lamarmora. Buy tickets at the bar at the junction of Via Lamarmora and Corso Umberto.

By car or motorcycle, Dorgali is 15 minutes from Cala Gonone via the SP26, 35 minutes from Orosei via the SS125, and 45 minutes from Nuoro via the SP46 or SS129.

WORTH A TRIP

ROAD TRIPPING THROUGH THE SUPRAMONTE

It's well worth getting behind the wheel to drive the 60km stretch from Dorgali to Santa Maria Navarrese. Serpentine and at times hair-raising, the SS125 ( GOOGLE MAP ) threads through the mountain tops where the scenery is distractingly lovely: to the right the ragged limestone peaks of the Supramonte rear above wooded valleys and deep gorges; to the left mountains tumble down to the bright-blue sea. The first 20km to the Genna 'e Silana pass (1017m) are the most breathtaking.

Baunei & the Altopiano del Golgo

Clinging to a precipitous rocky ridge on the long, tortuous road between Arbatax and Dorgali, the old stone shepherd's village of Baunei is an agreeable mountain outpost and a welcome oasis in the middle of the rugged Supramonte.

Whether or not you linger in town, be sure not to miss the region's uncontested highlight: the 10km detour up to the Altopiano del Golgo, a strange, other-worldly plateau where goats, pigs and donkeys graze in the macchia (Mediterranean scrub) and woodland. From here, one of Sardinia's best hiking trails descends to the coast at Cala Goloritzè, while a hardscrabble road snakes down to the rock spike of Pedra Longa, a natural monument and also the starting point for Sardinia’s star coastal trek, the Selvaggio Blu.

1Sights & Activities

Cala Goloritzè TrailHIKING

( GOOGLE MAP ; €6; icon-hoursgifhtrailhead 7.30am-4pm, beach to 6pm)

Few experiences in Sardinia compare with this thrilling trek to Cala Goloritzè, one of the Mediterranean's most spectacular beaches. Suitable for families, the easygoing, well-signposted (if rocky and occasionally steep) hike along an old mule trail takes you through a gorgeous limestone canyon shaded by juniper and holm oaks, passing cliffs honeycombed with caves, dramatic rock arches, overhangs and pinnacles. From the trailhead at Bar Su Porteddu on the Altopiano del Golgo, it’s 3.5km down to the beach (about 1¼ hours).

To reach the trailhead from Baunei, drive up Via San Pietro, following signs for the Altopiano. After travelling 8.4km north on pavement, turn east 1.2km on a signposted dirt road to the parking lot.

Il GolgoLANDMARK

( GOOGLE MAP )icon-freeF

Follow the signs from Baunei up a 2km climb of impossibly steep switchbacks to the plateau, then continue 6km north on pavement before taking the signposted turn-off for the final unpaved 1km to Su Sterru (Il Golgo). From the car park, walk five minutes to this remarkable feat of nature – a 270m abyss just 40m wide at its base. Its funnel-like opening is now fenced off, but just peering into the dark opening is enough to bring on vertigo.

Cooperativa GoloritzèHIKING

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%368 7028980; www.coopgoloritze.com; Località Golgo)

This highly regarded cooperative organises excursions ranging from trekking to 4WD trips. Many treks involve a descent through canyons to the Golfo di Orosei’s dreamy beaches. Staff at the refuge also arrange guides and logistical support for walkers attempting Sardinia’s once-in-a-lifetime Selvaggio Blu trek.

4Sleeping & Eating

Lemon HouseB&B

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%333 3862210; www.lemonhouse.eu; Via Dante 19, Lotzorai; r per person €33-43; icon-wifigifW)

New owners Riky and Elena have kept the same great vibe alive at this long-time favourite for hikers, climbers and cyclists. The lime-hued B&B makes a terrific base for outdoor escapades, with a bouldering wall, a relaxing roof terrace, a great library of outdoors-themed guidebooks, and plenty of invaluable tips on hiking, climbing, mountain biking and kayaking in the area.

Hotel Bia MaoreB&B€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%0782 61 10 33; www.biamaore.it; Via San Pietro 19, Baunei; s €55-85, d €82-130, tr €107-150; icon-parkgifpicon-acongifaicon-wifigifW)

Perched like an eyrie above Baunei, this B&B has compelling views of the mountains and coast. The warm-hued rooms are decked out with handmade furnishings and Sardinian fabrics – the pick of them with a balcony overlooking the mountains and the Gulf of Ogliastra.

Locanda Il RifugioSARDINIAN€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%368 7028980; www.coopgoloritze.com; Località Golgo; meals €25-35; icon-hoursgifh12.30-3pm & 7.30-11pm Easter-Oct)

Managed by Cooperativa Goloritzè, this converted farmstead puts on a generous spread of regional fare such as ladeddos (potato gnocchi) and spit-roasted kid and suckling pig, washed down with local Cannonau red. Afterwards, spare yourself the nail-biting drive back down to Baunei by camping (per person €7) or staying in one of the refuge's simple rooms (double including breakfast €60).

8Getting There & Away

Baunei sits astride the SS125, about 20km north of Tortolì/Arbatax and 48km south of Dorgali. Several daily ARST buses run south to Tortolì (€1.90, 35 minutes), but for travel north to Dorgali or up to the Altopiano del Golgo, you're much better off with your own wheels.

WORTH A TRIP

NURAGHE SU NURAXI

In the heart of the voluptuous green countryside near Barumini, the Nuraghe Su Nuraxi ( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%070 936 81 28; www.fondazionebarumini.it; adult/reduced €11/7; icon-hoursgifh9am-7pm summer, to 4pm winter) is Sardinia’s sole World Heritage Site and the island’s most visited nuraghe. The focal point is the 1500 BC tower, which originally stood on its own but was later incorporated into a fortified compound. Many of the settlement's buildings were erected in the Iron Age, and it's these that constitute the beehive of circular interlocking buildings that tumble down the hillside.

Visits are by guided tour only (usually in Italian, with explanatory printouts in English). Queues are the norm in summer when it can get extremely hot on the exposed site.

Golfo di Orosei

For sheer stop-dead-in-your-tracks beauty, there’s no place like this gulf, forming the seaward section of the Parco Nazionale del Golfo di Orosei e del Gennargentu ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.parcogennargentu.it). Here the high mountains of the Gennargentu abruptly meet the sea, forming a crescent of dramatic cliffs riven by false inlets, scattered with horseshoe-shaped bays and lapped by exquisitely aquamarine waters. Beach space is at a premium in summer, but there’s room for everyone, especially in the rugged, elemental hinterland.

DON'T MISS

SELVAGGIO BLU

This is the big one: Selvaggio Blu, an epic four- to seven-day 45km trek along the Golfo di Orosei's dramatic coastline, traversing wooded ravines, cliffs and caves. A guide is recommended as the trail is not well signposted and there's no water en route. If you are going it alone, be aware that it involves scrambling, fixed-rope routes and abseiling, so some alpine mountaineering experience is necessary. Visit the website, or get a copy of Enrico Spanu's Book of Selvaggio Blu.

Cala Gonone

icon-phonegif%0784 / Pop 1280

Climbers, divers, sea kayakers, beachcombers and hikers all find their thrill in Cala Gonone. Why? Just look around you: imperious limestone peaks frame grandstand views of the Golfo di Orosei, sheer cliffs dip into the brilliant-blue sea, trails wriggle through emerald-green ravines to pearly-white beaches. It is quite magnificent. Even getting here is an adventure, with each hairpin bend bringing you ever closer to a sea that spreads out before you like a giant liquid mirror.

Gathered along a pine-shaded promenade, this seaside resort still has the low-key, family-friendly vibe of the small fishing village it once was. August aside, the beaches tend to be uncrowded and the room rates affordable. Bear in mind that the resort slumbers in winter, closing from October until Easter.

1Sights & Activities

Boat tour and adventure sports operators are clustered down by the port, including Prima Sardegna ( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%0784 9 33 67; www.primasardegna.com; Viale Lungomare Palmasera 32; icon-hoursgifh9am-1pm & 4-8pm summer), Cielomar ( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%0784 92 00 14; www.cielomar.it; Piazza del Porto 6), Dolmen ( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%347 6698192; www.sardegnadascoprire.it; Piazza del Porto 3) and Nuovo Consorzio Trasporti Marittimi ( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%0784 9 33 05; www.calagononecrociere.it; Piazza del Porto 1).

Cala FuiliBEACH

( GOOGLE MAP )

About 3.5km south of town (follow Viale del Bue Marino) is this captivating rocky inlet backed by a deep green valley. From here you can hike over the cliff tops to Cala Luna, about two hours (4km) away on foot. The trail cuts a scenic path through juniper and mastic trees and is easy to navigate, with triangle-circle symbols marking handy rocks. The coastal views are breathtaking as you approach Cala Luna.

Grotta del Bue MarinoCAVE

( GOOGLE MAP ; adult/reduced €8/5; icon-hoursgifhguided tours hourly 10am-noon & 3-5pm summer, 11am-3pm winter, groups only Oct-Mar)

It’s a scenic 40-minute hike from Cala Fuili, or a speedy boat ride from Cala Gonone, to this enchanting grotto. It was the last island refuge of the rare monk seal (‘bue marino’ or ‘sea ox’ as it was known by local fishers). The watery gallery is impressive, with shimmering light playing on the strange shapes and Neolithic petroglyphs within the cave. Guided visits take place up to seven times a day. In peak season you may need to book.

icon-top-choiceoCala GoloritzèBEACH

( GOOGLE MAP )

The last beachette of the gulf, Cala Goloritzè rivals the best. At the southern end, bizarre limestone formations soar away from the cliffside. Among them is jaw-dropping Monte Caroddi or the Aguglia, a 148m-high needle of rock beloved of climbers. Many boat trips will take you here, or you can hike in from the Altopiano del Golgo on the beautiful, 3.5km Cala Goloritzè Trail. Note that the beach itself is rather small and can get crowded in summer.

DON'T MISS

THE BLUE CRESCENT

If you do nothing else in Sardinia, you should try to make an excursion along the 20km southern stretch of the Golfo di Orosei by boat. Intimidating limestone cliffs plunge headlong into the sea, scalloped by pretty beaches, coves and grottoes. With an ever-changing palette of sand, rocks, pebbles, seashells and crystal-clear water, the unfathomable forces of nature have conspired to create a sublime taste of paradise. The colours are at their best until about 3pm, when the sun starts to drop behind the higher cliffs.

From the port of Cala Gonone you head south to the Grotta del Bue Marino. The first beach after the cave is Cala Luna ( GOOGLE MAP ), a crescent-shaped strand closed off by high cliffs to the south. Cala Sisine ( GOOGLE MAP ) is the next beach of any size, also a mix of sand and pebbles and backed by a deep, verdant valley. Cala Biriola ( GOOGLE MAP ) quickly follows, and then several enchanting spots where you can bob below the soaring cliffs – look out for the patches of celestial-blue water.

Cala Mariolu ( GOOGLE MAP ) is arguably one of the most sublime spots on the coast. Split in two by a cluster of bright limestone rocks, it has virtually no sand. Don’t let the smooth white pebbles put you off, though. The water that laps these beaches ranges from a kind of transparent white at water’s edge through every shade of light and sky blue and on to a deep purplish hue.

4Sleeping & Eating

icon-top-choiceoAgriturismo Codula FuiliAGRITURISMO

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%340 2546208, 328 7340863; www.codulafuili.com; r per person incl breakfast €35-60, half-board €65-90, camping 2 people, car & tent €16-20)

You could be excused for fainting when you first see the spellbinding views from this end-of-the-road agriturismo. Perched high on the slopes above Nuraghe Mannu and Cala Fuili, it offers four rooms, campsites, a bungalow and a panoramic terrace. Dinners (€30) feature cheese from the family's free-ranging goats, plus homegrown olives, olive oil, meats and veggies.

Agriturismo Nuraghe MannuAGRITURISMO

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%0784 9 32 64, 328 8685824; www.agriturismonuraghemannu.com; Località Pranos; r per person incl breakfast €28-35, half-board €46-53, camping 2 people, car & tent €18-24)icon-sustainableS

Immersed in greenery and with blissful sea views, this is an authentic, ecofriendly working farm with five simple rooms, a restaurant open to all, and home-produced bread, milk, ricotta and sweets at breakfast. For campers, there are also five tent pitches available.

Hotel Bue MarinoHOTEL€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%0784 92 00 78; www.hotelbuemarino.it; Via Vespucci 8; s €82-108, d €108-180)

Conveniently located just steps above the port, this blindingly white hotel has pleasant, cool blue rooms done up in traditional Sardinian fabrics. Adding to its appeal are friendly staff and magnificent sea views from many guest rooms, as well as from the upper-floor breakfast area, solarium and hot tub.

Hotel L'OasiB&B€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%0784 9 31 11; www.loasihotel.it; Via Garcia Lorca 13; s €60-102, d €75-138; icon-parkgifpicon-acongifaicon-wifigifW)

Perched on the cliffs above Cala Gonone and nestling in flowery gardens, this B&B offers enticing sea views from many of its breezy rooms. The friendly Carlesso family can advise on activities from climbing to diving. L’Oasi is a 700m uphill walk from the harbour.

Il PescatoreSEAFOOD€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%0784 9 31 74; www.ristoranteilpescatorecalagonone.com; Via Acqua Dolce 7; meals €30-45; icon-hoursgifhnoon-2.30pm & 7-10.30pm; icon-familygifc)

Fresh seafood is what this authentic place is about. Sit on the terrace for sea breezes and fishy delights, such as pasta with ricci (sea urchins), and spaghetti with clams and bottarga (mullet roe). It also does a kids' menu (€15).

8Information

Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%0784 9 36 96; www.dorgali.it; Viale del Bue Marino 1a; icon-hoursgifh9am-1pm & 3-7pm May-Sep, to 1pm Oct-Apr)

A very helpful office in the small park off to the right as you enter town.

8Getting There & Away

Buses run to Cala Gonone from Dorgali (€1.30, 20 minutes, seven daily Monday to Saturday, four Sunday) and Nuoro (€3.10, 1¼ hours, six daily Monday to Saturday, three Sunday).

Sardinia in Colour

Cagliari

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DIEGO FIORE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Golden-hued palazzi, domes and facades lead up to the castle battlements.

Hiking, Gola Su Gorropu

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IVAN HLOBEJ/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

This spectacular gorge is flanked by 500m vertical rock walls.

Grotta di Ispinigoli

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SHEVCHENKO ANDREY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

A fairy-tale-like cave full of glittering rock formations and giant stalagmites

Cala Mariolu

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TORE65/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

One of the most beautiful spots on the Golfo di Orosei, a stunning stretch of limestone cliffs, pretty beaches, caves and grottoes.