GAME AND GAME BIRDS

The hunters and settlers of the earlier days were, of necessity, outdoor cooks. They had few utensils – the cast-iron potjie was essential – but they put them to good use to cook whatever they caught or shot. For some game, like porcupine, they patted wet clay or a plain flour and water dough around the animal, skin and all (but they removed the quills), made a hole in the hot coals, placed the parcel in it and covered it with hot coals. The meat cooked slowly for a couple of hours, until succulent and tender. When done, the clay or dough was cracked open and the skin came away with it, leaving the beautifully cooked meat. Game birds, like Muscovy duck, guineafowl and pheasant require long, slow cooking because they do not have much fat on them. They were traditionally pot-roasted and braised, and often used in stews cooked over the coals or on top of the stove.

VENISON PIE

The Dutch love of pies has become a South African tradition as well.

Venison Pie (top) and Pot-roast Venison (page 63) with Stuffed Baked Apples (page 85) and Vegetable Curry (page 73).

• 500 g Flaky Pastry (page 100)

FILLING

• 1 kg cooked venison, cubed
• 200 g rindless streaky bacon, chopped
• 15 ml chutney
• 125 g dried apricots, chopped
• 30 ml red wine
• 5 ml chopped fresh thyme
• 1 clove garlic, crushed

1. Halve the pastry. Roll out one half and use to line a pie dish. Combine all the ingredients for the filling and spoon the mixture into the pie dish. Cover with rolled-out reserved pastry and crimp the edges together. Cut slits in the top to allow steam to escape during baking. Bake at 180 °C for 30 minutes, or until the pastry is crisp and golden. Serve with Yellow rice with Raisins (page 72) and Quince Jelly (page 130).

Serves 8

VENISON SAUSAGE

The fat in the tail of the fat-tailed sheep, once common all over the country, was a great cooking and household aid for the farmer’s wife. It added just the right flavour to all sorts of home-made sausages.

• 500 g mutton tail fat (see Note)
• 2 kg venison, without sinews or membranes
• 1 kg pork
• 5 ml ground cloves
• 15 ml salt
• 50 ml crushed coriander seeds
• 2 ml finely chopped fresh thyme
• 1 thick slice white bread, toasted
• 50 ml dry red wine
• 50 ml brown vinegar
• 60 g sausage casings

1. Cube 250 g of tail fat and set aside. Mince the venison, pork and remaining tail fat with the cloves, salt, coriander and thyme. Mince the bread separately. Combine the meat mixture with the fat, bread, wine and vinegar. Stuff the filling into the casings, making sure that the fat is evenly distributed.
2. NOTE If you freeze the tail fat before mincing and cubing, it will be much easier to work with. Make sure that the fat is evenly distributed in the sausages.

Makes 3.5–4 kg

POT-ROAST VENISON

Game meat is lean, and needs additional fat and long cooking to become tender. Farm-reared game is now available from supermarkets and butchers in most towns.

• 250 g speck, cut into thin strips
• 30 ml brown vinegar
• 5 ml salt
• 5 ml brown sugar
• 2–2.5 kg leg of venison
• 100 g seedless raisins
• 2 cloves garlic, cut into slivers
• 2 ml milled pepper
• 2 ml ground ginger
• 20 ml salt
• 20 ml brown sugar
• 1 medium onion, sliced
• 1 bay leaf
• 6 whole cloves
• 500 ml dry red wine
• 250 ml red wine vinegar
• 30 ml fat or sunflower oil
• 30 ml cake flour
• 60 ml smooth apricot jam
• 60 ml medium cream sherry

1. Marinate the speck for 45 minutes in the vinegar mixed with the 5 ml salt and 5 ml sugar. Drain and reserve the liquid. Freeze the speck strips (they are then easier to handle). Pierce the venison with a sharp knife and place a raisin, sliver of garlic and strip of speck in each incision. Rub the pepper, ginger, 20 ml salt and 20 ml sugar into the meat. Place it in a large earthenware or glass dish with the onion slices, bay leaf, cloves, reserved liquid, wine and red wine vinegar, and marinate for 2–3 days, turning twice a day. Heat the fat or oil in a heavy-based saucepan and brown the drained meat, turning often. Add 250 ml of the marinade and simmer for 2–3 hours, or until tender. Add more marinade if it becomes too dry. Mix the flour, jam and sherry to a paste and use it to baste the meat. Roast for a further 5 minutes. Serve with stewed dried fruit, Baked Quinces (page 86), Stuffed Baked Apples (page 85) or Yellow rice with Raisins (page 72).
2. VARIATIONS

• Use dried apricot slices instead of raisins.
• Prepare and marinate the meat as for pot-roast venison, then place the meat in an ovenproof dish and roast, covered with foil, for 2–3 hours at 160 °C, basting often. Remove the foil for the last 15 minutes of roasting time to brown the meat.

Serves 8

BAKED PHEASANT

Our great-grandmothers used this recipe to cook all kinds of game birds. If pheasant is not available, guineafowl can also be used.

• 2 kg pheasant, skinned
• 65 ml cake flour seasoned with 5 ml each salt and milled pepper
• 25 ml lard or butter
• 1 large onion, thinly sliced
• 170 g rindless bacon, diced
• 1 small cabbage, shredded
• 150 g small carrots
• 125 g fresh green peas
• 170 g stoned prunes, soaked
• overnight in water to cover
• 125 ml red wine
• 4 smoked sausages

1. Roll the pheasant in the seasoned flour. Melt the lard or butter in a large frying pan and brown the pheasant until golden, turning occasionally to brown all over. Remove the bird from the pan. Add the onion and bacon to the pan and sauté for 5 minutes. Mix in the cabbage, carrots and peas. Place half this mixture in the base of a large casserole or cast-iron pot. Place the pheasant and half the drained prunes on top, then cover with the remaining cabbage mixture, remaining prunes and the wine. Arrange the smoked sausages on top. Cover, and bake at 180 °C for 2 hours, or cook in a cast-iron pot over the coals for 2¹⁄₂–3 hours. To serve, carve the pheasant, arrange the slices on a heated serving platter and arrange the prunes, cabbage mixture and sausages around it. Serve with Yellow rice with Raisins (page 72).

Serves 4

VENISON POTJIE

Game was often cooked in a potjie over the fire for hours until tender and tasty. Any venison may be used to make this potjie; springbok is particularly good.

• 125 ml sunflower oil
• 4 medium carrots, sliced
• 2 medium onions, sliced
• 2 cloves garlic, crushed
• 10 ml chopped fresh thyme
• 1 kg venison, cubed
• 250 g rindless bacon, chopped
• 500 ml port or dry red wine
• 6 medium potatoes, sliced

1. Heat the oil in a cast-iron pot and sauté the carrots, onions and garlic for about 5 minutes. Add the thyme, meat, bacon and port or wine and simmer, covered, for 3 hours. Add the potatoes and simmer for a further 30–45 minutes. Serve with Mealie Porridge (page 74) or Crumbly mealie porridge (page 74).

Serves 8

POT-ROAST MUSCOVY DUCK

This was a favourite treat on Sundays or special occasions. The duck was pot-roasted in a heavy cast-iron pot over the fire – a long, slow method perfect for cooking it to succulent perfection. At the simmering stage, hot coals were heaped on the lid to ensure that the duck cooked evenly. The liver was fried separately in butter or fat and served with the duck.

• 1.5–2 kg Muscovy duck
• 1 clove garlic, halved
• 6 strips speck or bacon rashers
• 10 ml salt
• 2 ml milled pepper
• 1 large onion, sliced
• 5 ml chopped fresh mixed herbs
• 50 ml butter or margarine
• 250 ml red wine

STUFFING

• 500 g pork sausage meat or mince
• 125 ml fresh white breadcrumbs
• 100 g rindless streaky bacon, chopped
• 10 ml chopped fresh parsley
• 1 large egg
• 2 ml finely chopped fresh mixed herbs
• 5 ml salt
• 2 ml milled pepper

1. First make the stuffing. Combine all the ingredients and set aside. Trim the Muscovy duck, and rub the carcass inside and out with the cut garlic clove. Fill the cavity with the stuffing and sew up the opening or secure it with skewers. Secure the strips of speck or bacon rashers to the breast and back of the duck and dust with salt and pepper. Place the duck in a saucepan with the sliced onion and sprinkle with the 5 ml mixed herbs. Add the butter or margarine and braise the duck, uncovered, for about 30 minutes, or until nicely browned, turning once or twice. Add the wine, cover and simmer over moderate to low heat for 2–2¹⁄₂ hours. Serve with Yellow rice with Raisins (page 72) and lightly steamed vegetables.

Serves 4–6

VENISON LIVER IN CAUL FAT

• 1 kg venison liver, cleaned and thickly sliced
• 5 ml salt
• milled black pepper
• caul fat

1. Season the venison liver and place it in the caul fat. Wrap it up and secure with skewer. Braai the liver over moderate coals for about 10–15 minutes, or until just done. Serve immediately with Crumbly Mealie Porridge (page 74).
2. VARIATION The liver can also be minced with onion and a piece of white bread.

Serves 6

SADDLE OF SPRINGBOK WITH APRICOTS

Cooked this way, farm-reared springbok is meltingly tender and does not require a long cooking time.

Saddle of Springbok with Apricots and Baked Quinces (page 86).

• 60 ml Fruit Chutney (page 136)
• 3 kg saddle of springbok
• 2 cloves garlic, cut into slivers
• 125 g dried apricots, sliced
• 10 ml chopped fresh mixed herbs
• 15 ml salt
• milled black pepper
• 250 g streaky bacon rashers

1. Spread the chutney over the meat. Make incisions next to the backbone and stuff with the garlic and apricots. Season with the herbs, salt and pepper. Place the bacon over the meat and roast, uncovered, at 180 °C for 40 minutes (see Note). Serve with Quince Jelly (page 130) or Baked Quinces (page 86).
2. NOTE Take care not to overcook the meat or it could become dry and tasteless.

Serves 8

GUINEAFOWL AND CHICKEN POTJIE

A mixture of wild and domestic birds makes this stew different and delicious.

Guineafowl and Chicken Potjie, Braised Guineafowl and Game Bird Pie, three appetising ways with game birds.

• 1.5–2 kg young guineafowl
• 1.5 kg chicken
• 65 ml cake flour seasoned with 5 ml salt and 2 ml milled pepper
• 125 ml sunflower oil
• 25 ml butter
• 250 g chopped bacon, preferably unsmoked (green)
• 1 large onion, sliced
• 2 small carrots, chopped
• 1 stalk celery, chopped
• 2 cloves garlic, crushed
• 250 ml Chicken Stock (page 11)
• 500 ml dry red wine
• 2 sprigs of fresh parsley
• 2 bay or lemon leaves
• 1 sprig of fresh thyme
• juice of 1 lemon
• salt and milled black pepper
• 20 small onions
• 20 button mushrooms
• 20 small potatoes
• 2 stalks celery, coarsely chopped

1. Cut the guineafowl and chicken into portions. Coat the guineafowl pieces in the seasoned flour. Heat the oil and butter in a cast-iron pot. Brown the guineafowl for 5 minutes on each side. Add the bacon and sauté for 10 minutes. Add the onion, carrots, celery and garlic and cook, stirring, for 5 minutes. Add the stock, 250 ml of the wine, the parsley, bay or lemon leaves and thyme. Simmer, covered, for 40 minutes. Meanwhile, braai the chicken pieces quickly over the hot coals until browned, basting with oil and lemon juice during braaiing. Add to the pot and skim off the fat. Add the remaining wine and stir carefully. Adjust the seasoning, cover and simmer for a further 35 minutes. Add the onions, then layer the mushrooms, potatoes and celery on top. Simmer, covered, for approximately 1 hour.
2. VARIATION Use 250 ml uncooked rice instead of the potatoes. Do not stir.

Serves 8

BRAISED GUINEAFOWL

• 75 g butter or margarine
• 1.5–2 kg guineafowl, cut into portions
• 12 small onions
• 10 ml salt
• 2 ml milled pepper
• 5 ml chopped fresh mixed herbs
• 250 ml cream or natural yoghurt
• 15 ml paprika
• juice of ¹⁄₂ lemon

1. Melt the butter or margarine in a large saucepan or casserole and brown the guineafowl pieces on all sides to seal in the juices. Add the onions to the saucepan and sauté for approximately 5 minutes, or until they are transparent. Add the salt, pepper and herbs, and braise the guineafowl, covered, for approximately 1–1¹⁄₂ hours, or until tender, adding a little water or Chicken Stock if the meat becomes too dry. Stir in the cream or yoghurt, paprika and lemon juice and serve on boiled browned rice, accompanied by stewed dried peaches or apricots.

Serves 6

GAME BIRD PIE

• 500 g Flaky Pastry (page 100)

FILLING

• 1 kg game bird flesh, boned
• 125 ml white wine
• 2–3 peppercorns
• 1 bay leaf
• 200 g rindless streaky bacon, chopped
• 15 ml chutney
• 125 g dried apricots, chopped
• 25 ml dry red wine
• 5 ml chopped fresh thyme
• 1 clove garlic, crushed

1. Halve the pastry and roll out one half. Line a pie dish and reserve the remaining pastry for the crust. To make the filling, stew the meat with the white wine, peppercorns and bay leaf for about 30 minutes. Add the remaining filling ingredients and spoon into the pie dish. Cover with the rolled-out reserved pastry, crimping the pastry edges together. Cut a few slits in the top to allow steam to escape during baking. Bake at 180 °C for 30 minutes, or until the pastry is golden. Serve with Yellow rice with Raisins (page 72) and Quince Jelly (page 130).

Serves 8

POFADDER

This sausage has been made for generations in areas where game abounds. Any kind of game can be used, but springbok and kudu are particularly good.

• large intestine of venison
• venison liver, heart and kidneys, cleaned and diced
• 5 ml salt
• milled pepper
• 30 ml crushed roasted
• coriander seeds
• 5 ml dried thyme
• 15 ml Worcestershire sauce

1. Clean the intestine thoroughly. Mix the liver, heart and kidneys with the salt, pepper, coriander seeds, thyme and the Worcestershire sauce, and stuff the mixture into the intestine. Braai over moderate coals for approximately 15–20 minutes, turning once. Serve, sliced, with Mealie Porridge (page 74).
2. VARIATIONS

• Use the small intestine to make a smaller sausage, called Skilpad.
• Use the intestine, liver, heart and kidneys of a sheep instead of venison.

Serves 6