THAI MARINATED
PAPAYA SALAD
MAKES 8 to 12 SERVINGS
Green papaya is a staple of Thai and Vietnamese cooking. It is not sweet, as the more familiar variety that is sold ripened, and has a firm, crisp texture that makes one of the most refreshing salads on earth. There are some very simple green papaya salads, but I love this one with its overlapping flavors and textures.
LEMONGRASS OIL
3 lemongrass stalks, tender bottom bulbs only, coarsely chopped
1¼ cups vegetable oil
MARINATED PAPAYA
1 green papaya (about 2¼ pounds), peeled, seeded, and cut on a mandoline or V-slicer into julienned strips about 3 inches long
1 (14-ounce) can unsweetened coconut milk (not cream of coconut)
¼ cup soy sauce
LEMONGRASS PEANUTS
¾ cup unsalted raw shelled peanuts
Kosher salt
MIDORI VINAIGRETTE
¼ cup fresh lime juice
3 tablespoons melon liqueur, preferably Midori
2 tablespoons mirin
2 tablespoons Thai sweet chili sauce
1 tablespoon rice vinegar
2 teaspoons Microplaned garlic
2 teaspoons peeled and Microplaned fresh ginger
½ teaspoon sriracha
½ teaspoon kosher salt
1 small red bell pepper, seeded
1 large ripe red papaya or 2 ripe yellow papayas, peeled and seeded
6 scallions, white and green parts, thinly sliced on a sharp diagonal
¼ cup hand-torn fresh Thai basil
¼ cup hand-torn fresh cilantro
¼ cup hand-torn fresh mint
Kosher salt
Sriracha
1. To make the lemongrass oil: Smash the lemongrass with a meat mallet on a carving board. Warm and steep the oil and lemongrass together in a small saucepan over very low heat for 1 hour (don’t worry if it bubbles lightly). Strain into a bowl, pressing hard on the solids, and let it cool completely. (Makes about 1 cup. The oil can be stored in a covered container and refrigerated for up to 1 month.)
2. To marinate the papaya: Combine the green papaya, coconut milk, and soy sauce together in a medium bowl. Cover and refrigerate for at least 1 hour or up to 4 hours.
3. To make the peanuts: Heat 2 teaspoons of the lemongrass oil in a small skillet over medium heat. Add the peanuts and cook, stirring occasionally, until they begin to darken, about 2 minutes. Remove from the heat and season with salt to taste. Transfer to a plate and let cool. Coarsely chop the peanuts. (The peanuts can be cooled, covered, and stored at room temperature for up to 1 day.)
4. To make the vinaigrette: Whisk all of the ingredients together in a medium bowl. Gradually whisk in ⅓ cup plus 2 tablespoons of the lemongrass oil. (Reserve the remaining lemongrass oil for another use. Makes about 1 cup dressing. The dressing can be stored in a covered container and refrigerated for up to 1 week.)
5. Cut the bell pepper and ripe papaya into 3-inch julienne (they do not require a mandoline). Briefly drain the marinated green papaya and transfer it to a large bowl. Add the bell pepper, ripe papaya, scallions, Thai basil, cilantro, and mint to the bowl and mix well. Add the vinaigrette and mix again. Season to taste with salt and sriracha. Transfer to a platter or serving bowl, sprinkle the peanuts, and serve.
Soba Noodle
and BEET SALAD
MAKES 4 to 6 SERVINGS
I serve this salad most often with the Wasabi Pea–Crusted Salmon here. But it is so useful as a salad with other main courses (try it with grilled shrimp), that I am offering it here as a stand-alone recipe so it is sure to catch your attention. Ginger juice is a great ingredient as it adds spicy flavor without the tough texture of the chopped root. You’ll be glad to have the leftover pesto to add zest to plain rice or noodles.
ASIAN DRESSING
2 tablespoons Asian Pesto (here)
1 tablespoon fresh ginger juice (see here)
1 tablespoon fresh lime juice
1 teaspoon Asian sesame oil
1 teaspoon Japanese soy sauce
SOBA
½ cup Japanese soy sauce
1 (8-ounce) package soba
1 medium carrot, julienned with a mandoline, V-slicer, or large knife
½ red bell pepper, cored and cut into thin strips
½ yellow bell pepper, cored and cut into thin strips
1 small beet, roasted (see here), peeled, and cut into ¼-inch dice
1 tablespoon finely chopped roasted unsalted cashews
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1. To make the dressing: Whisk the Asian pesto, ginger juice, lime juice, sesame oil, and soy sauce together in a large bowl; set aside. (Save the remaining pesto for another use.)
2. To cook the soba: Bring 4 quarts water to a boil in a large saucepan over high heat. Add the soy sauce and return to a boil. Add the soba and cook according to the package directions until barely tender. Drain in a colander and rinse quickly under cold running water just to stop the cooking.
Add the warm noodles to the dressing and let cool. Stir in the carrot, red and yellow pepper, beet, and cashews. Season to taste with salt and pepper. (The salad can be covered and refrigerated for up to 8 hours. Season again before using.)