CHILAQUILES VERDES
with CHIPOTLE CHICKEN
MAKES 4 SERVINGS
Chilaquiles—tortilla chips simmered in a spicy sauce—is the best excuse that I know of for eating a pile of tortilla chips in one sitting. I learned how to make them one Sunday morning about 20 years ago, when one of my line cooks whipped them up as a hangover remedy. Hungover or not, I’ve been eating this Mexican specialty (and putting it on my menus) ever since! Don’t let the fried egg trick you into thinking that chilaquiles is only for breakfast, as it is also great for dinner.
TOMATILLO SAUCE
1½ pounds tomatillos, husked and rinsed
1 cup chopped white onion
¼ cup coarsely chopped fresh cilantro
1 large jalapeño, seeded and coarsely chopped
2 garlic cloves, crushed under a knife and peeled
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
CHIPOTLE CHICKEN
1 pound skinless, boneless chicken thighs
2 tablespoons canola or vegetable oil
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
½ cup mayonnaise
2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh cilantro
1 tablespoon adobo sauce from canned chipotles
TORTILLAS
Vegetable oil, for deep-frying
10 corn tortillas, each cut into sixths, left to stand uncovered for a few hours to curl up and turn stale
⅓ cup crumbled feta cheese
1 tablespoon canola or vegetable oil
4 large eggs
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
½ small red onion, thinly sliced, preferably pickled (see Chef Talk, here)
Finely chopped fresh cilantro, for garnish (optional)
1. To make the sauce: Put the whole tomatillos, onion, cilantro, jalapeño, and garlic in a medium saucepan and add just enough water to barely cover the tomatillos, about 1 quart. Bring to a simmer over high heat. Reduce the heat to low and simmer just until the tomatillos turn olive green and are very tender, 15 to 20 minutes. Using a handheld blender, puree the mixture in the saucepan. (Or let cool and puree in batches in a blender.) Return the sauce to the saucepan if necessary and boil over medium-high heat, stirring often, until reduced to 4 cups. Season to taste with salt and pepper. (The sauce can be cooled, covered, and refrigerated for up to 3 days.)
2. To cook the chicken: Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 400°F. Toss the chicken, oil, ½ teaspoon salt, and ¼ teaspoon pepper in a large bowl to coat. Arrange the chicken on a large rimmed baking sheet and bake until golden brown and the juices show no sign of pink when pierced with a knife, about 30 minutes. Let cool until the chicken is easy to handle. Tear the warm chicken into strips. Let cool completely.
3. Whisk the mayonnaise, cilantro, and adobo sauce together in a medium bowl. Add the chicken and toss to coat with the mayonnaise mixture. Season to taste with salt and pepper. (The chicken can be covered and refrigerated for up to 1 day.)
4. To fry the tortillas: Line a large rimmed baking sheet with paper towels. Pour enough vegetable oil to come 2 inches up the sides of a large deep saucepan and heat over high heat until it registers 350°F on a deep-frying thermometer. In batches, without crowding, add the tortillas and deep-fry, turning as needed, until golden, about 1 minute. Using a wire spider or slotted spoon, transfer the tortillas to the paper towels to drain.
5. Bring the tomatillo sauce to a simmer in a large, deep skillet over medium heat. In batches, mix in the tortillas and cook, stirring occasionally, just until they begin to soften, about 2 minutes. Do not overcook the tortillas. Stir in the chicken and its sauce and cook just until the tortilla chips are al dente, about 1 minute more. Remove from the heat and sprinkle with the feta.
6. Meanwhile, heat the canola oil in a very large nonstick skillet over medium heat. Crack each egg into the skillet and cover. (If all of the eggs don’t fit in the skillet, cook them in batches as needed.) Cook the eggs just until the egg whites have set, about 1½ minutes. Season the eggs with salt and pepper. Place the eggs on top of the chilaquiles. Garnish with the red onion rings and a sprinkle of cilantro, if using. Serve hot, spooning up one egg for each guest.