Korean Short Rib
TACOS with KIMCHI
MAKES 12 TACOS 4 TO 6 SERVINGS
One of the reasons Korean food is so incredible is the use of fermented condiments like gochujang and chunjang (see Chef Talk, here). These soft tacos are a happy marriage between Korean and Mexican cuisines. The marinade is packed with intense umami flavor, making the sweet and spicy beef the main event. If you wish, purchase kimchi instead of making your own.
CLASSIC KIMCHI
2 pounds napa cabbage, cored and cut crosswise into ⅛-inch ribbons
2 tablespoons kosher salt
2 tablespoons sugar
½ medium white onion, thinly sliced
1 small carrot, cut into 1½-inch julienne
2 scallions, white and green parts, cut into 1½-inch julienne
2 garlic cloves, minced
2 garlic cloves, shredded on a Microplane zester
1 teaspoon finely shredded fresh ginger (use a Microplane zester)
2 tablespoons Japanese soy sauce
1½ tablespoons gochugaru (red chili flakes for kimchi)
BEEF AND MARINADE
¼ cup Japanese soy sauce
¼ cup gochujang (Korean chili paste)
¼ cup chunjang (Korean black bean paste)
1 tablespoon Thai or Vietnamese fish sauce
2 teaspoons fresh lime juice
2½ pounds bone-in flanken (cross-cut short ribs)
GOCHUJANG AIOLI
½ cup House Aioli (here)
2 tablespoons gochujang (Korean chili paste)
12 corn tortillas
Fresh cilantro leaves, for garnish
1. To make the kimchi: At least 2 days before serving, toss the cabbage, salt, and sugar together in a colander. Let the mixture drain in the sink for 2 to 3 hours.
2. Rinse the cabbage mixture well under cold water. A handful at a time, squeeze out the excess moisture and transfer the cabbage to a large bowl. Add the onion, carrot, scallions, garlic, and ginger and mix well. Add the soy sauce and chili flakes and mix again. Cover tightly and refrigerate for at least 2 days. (The kimchi can be refrigerated for up to 1 week. The flavor will improve as it ages.)
3. To marinate the beef: Whisk the soy sauce, gochujang, chunjang, fish sauce, and lime juice together in a medium bowl. Place the short ribs in a 1-gallon self-sealing plastic bag and pour in the marinade. Seal and refrigerate, occasionally turning the bag, for at least 6 hours or up to 24 hours. Remove from the refrigerator and let stand at room temperature for 30 minutes before grilling.
4. To grill the short ribs: Prepare a grill for direct cooking over high heat (about 500°F). (Or position the broiler rack about 6 inches from the source of heat and preheat the broiler on high.) Brush the grill grates clean.
5. Remove the ribs from the marinade and shake off the excess marinade. Grill, with the lid closed as much as possible, turning once, until browned on both sides, about 6 minutes. (Or broil according to the same directions above.) Transfer the beef to a carving board and let stand for 3 to 5 minutes.
6. Meanwhile, make the gochujang aioli: Combine the house aioli and gochugang in a small bowl.
7. Brush the grill grates clean again. Grill the tortillas, turning once, until hot, about 30 seconds. Transfer to a cloth napkin–lined bowl and wrap to keep warm.
8. Cut off and reserve the bones from the short ribs. Cut the meat into 1-inch pieces and transfer to a bowl.
9. For each taco, spread a tortilla with about ½ tablespoon of the aioli. Top with a few beef chunks, about 2 tablespoons of the kimchi, and a sprinkle of cilantro. Fold the taco in half and transfer to a platter. (Or offer bowls of the sliced beef, kimchi, aioli, and cilantro with the bowl of tortillas and let diners make their tacos at the table.) Serve immediately, with the bones for nibbling.