PORK TENDERLOIN with
Ancho-Caramel Glaze and BBQ Beans
MAKES 6 to 8 SERVINGS
At Al Forno in Providence, Rhode Island, the late, great chef George Germon made me a terrific “dirty” steak, cooked directly on charcoal and served with a caramel sauce. Inspired by that combination, I developed this dish using pork tenderloin instead of beef. Don’t let the caramel-making process scare you off; a candy thermometer is not required and you can tell when the caramel is at the right stage by its sharp aroma.
ANCHO-CARAMEL GLAZE
½ cup sugar
3 tablespoons water
⅓ cup heavy cream
3 tablespoons pure ground ancho chile
BBQ BEANS
4 slices bacon, cut into ½-inch dice
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
½ cup (¼-inch) diced red bell pepper (or use half red and half yellow pepper)
¼ cup (¼-inch) diced red onion
¼ cup (¼-inch) diced celery
¼ cup (¼-inch) diced carrot
1 tablespoon seeded and minced fresh jalapeño
1 garlic clove, minced
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon ground coriander seeds
1 teaspoon pure ground ancho chile
3 (19.5-ounce) cans seasoned whole black beans, such as La Costena (see Note, here) drained and rinsed
1 cup reduced-sodium chicken broth
1 cup store-bought spicy barbecue sauce, preferably Rattler BBQ Sauce
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
PORK
2 pork tenderloins, each about 1 pound, trimmed of excess fat and silver skin
1 tablespoon canola or vegetable oil
1 teaspoon kosher salt
Flaky sea salt, such as Maldon, for serving
Cilantro leaves, for garnish
1. To make the glaze: Pour the sugar into a heavy medium saucepan and stir in the water. Cook over high heat, stirring often, until the sugar is melted and boiling. Stop stirring and cook, occasionally swirling the saucepan by its handle and wiping down any crystals that form on the inside of the saucepan with a bristle pastry brush dipped in cold water, until the caramel has a sharp, distinct aroma, turns the color of an old penny, and is smoking, 3 to 5 minutes. Reduce the heat to low and carefully pour in the cream (be careful of splatters). Stir until the caramel is melted. Transfer to a small bowl. Stir in the ground ancho and let cool completely. (The glaze can be covered and refrigerated for 1 day. Reheat until fluid in a saucepan or microwave oven.)
2. To make the beans: Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F. Meanwhile, cook the bacon and oil together in a medium flameproof casserole over medium heat, stirring often, until the bacon is beginning to brown, about 5 minutes. Add the bell pepper, onion, celery, carrot, jalapeño, and garlic. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are tender, about 5 minutes. Stir in the cumin, coriander, and ground ancho.
3. Add the beans, broth, and barbecue sauce, mix well, and bring to a simmer. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Transfer to the oven and bake, uncovered and without stirring, until thickened and glazed, about 45 minutes. Remove from the oven and cover with aluminum foil to keep warm. (The beans can be cooled, covered, and refrigerated for 1 day. Reheat in a 350°F oven in the covered casserole for 30 minutes.)
4. To cook the pork: Increase the oven temperature to 400°F. Fold the thin ends of the tenderloins back and tie them in place with kitchen twine to give the tenderloins equal thickness throughout their length. Heat the oil in a large ovenproof skillet over medium-high heat. Season the pork with the kosher salt. Cook the pork, turning occasionally, until well browned on all sides, about 7 minutes. Brush the top of the pork, still in the skillet, with some of the ancho glaze. Transfer the skillet and pork to the oven and roast for 6 minutes. Turn the pork and brush with the remaining glaze. Roast until the pork reaches 145°F on an instant-read thermometer, 5 to 8 minutes longer. Transfer the pork to a carving board and let stand for 3 to 5 minutes. Set the skillet with the cooking juices aside.
5. Cut the pork into ½-inch slices, arrange on a serving platter, and drizzle with some of the juices (but not the fat) from the skillet. Season with the flaky salt and sprinkle with the cilantro. Serve immediately with the baked beans.
Note: Be sure to use whole black beans seasoned with onion and peppers. It may not clearly state “seasoned” on the label, so check the ingredients list. La Costena is my favorite brand.
BRINED
Pork Milanese
with TOMATO-BALSAMIC SAUCE
MAKES 4 SERVINGS
Boneless pork chops get a bad rap for being tough after cooking, but this well-priced meat can be succulent and tender if you give your chops a little TLC. A quick brine adds moisture throughout the pork, and crisp panko adds a protective coating. The tomato sauce that goes with it is rustically chunky, with a mouthwatering sweet-and-sour flavor. For easier serving to a group, cut the fried chops into strips.
BRINE AND PORK CHOPS
2 cups water
⅓ cup plus 1 tablespoon sugar
¼ cup kosher salt
Zest strips of ½ large orange, removed with a vegetable peeler
1½ quarts ice water
2 boneless pork chops, each 8 ounces
TOMATO-BALSAMIC SAUCE
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 garlic cloves, crushed under a knife and peeled
½ teaspoon hot red pepper flakes
1 (28-ounce) can plum tomatoes, coarsely crushed by hand
Finely grated zest of 1 lemon
⅓ cup coarsely chopped fresh basil
1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh oregano
1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar, preferably aged balsamic
1 teaspoon sugar
COATING
½ cup unbleached all-purpose flour
2 large eggs
½ teaspoon kosher salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
½ cup Sicilian Bread Crumbs (here)
½ cup panko (Japanese bread crumbs)
2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh parsley
Grated zest of 1 lemon
¼ teaspoon crushed hot red pepper flakes
Vegetable oil, for frying
1. To brine the chops: Combine the water, sugar, salt, and orange zest in a medium saucepan. Bring to a boil over high heat, stirring often to dissolve the sugar and salt. Transfer to a medium heatproof bowl and let cool (see Chef Talk, this page). Stir in the ice water—the brine must be very cold.
2. Meanwhile, one at a time, place a pork chop between two sheets of plastic wrap. Pound the chop with the flat side of a meat pounder until it is about ⅓ inch thick. Put the pork in a 1-gallon zippered plastic bag and pour in the brine. Seal the bag tightly, place in a bowl, and refrigerate for at least 1 hour or up to 2 hours, no longer.
3. Meanwhile, make the sauce: Heat the oil and garlic together in a medium saucepan over medium heat until the garlic is toasted to golden brown, about 2 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, remove and discard the garlic. Stir the hot pepper flakes into the oil. Stir in the tomatoes with their juices and the lemon zest. Bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low and simmer, stirring occasionally, until slightly reduced, about 1 hour. During the last few minutes, stir in the basil, oregano, balsamic vinegar, and sugar. (The sauce can be cooled, covered, and refrigerated for up to 3 days. Reheat before serving.)
4. To coat the pork chops: Remove the pork from the marinade and pat it dry with paper towels. Spread the flour in a wide shallow bowl. Beat the eggs, salt, and pepper together in a second shallow bowl. Mix the Sicilian crumbs, panko, parsley, lemon zest, and hot pepper flakes in a third bowl. One at a time, coat the pork in the flour, shaking off the excess, then dip on both sides in the egg mixture and coat evenly with the panko mixture, patting it in gently to adhere. Transfer to a platter. Let the pork stand for about 10 minutes to set the coating.
5. Line a large baking sheet with paper towels. Pour enough oil into a very large skillet to come ¼ inch up the sides and heat over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add the pork to the oil and cook, adjusting the heat so the pork bubbles steadily in the oil without browning too quickly, until the underside is golden brown, about 3 minutes. Turn the pork over and brown the other side, about 3 minutes more. Transfer to the paper towels and drain briefly. Cut each pork chop crosswise into ½ inch strips. Transfer to a platter and serve immediately, with the tomato sauce on the side.
Baby Back Ribs
WITH
JÄGERMEISTER–BLACK CHERRY COLA GLAZE
MAKES 8 SERVINGS
To a city dweller without an outdoor grill, it can be a challenge to make succulent, fall-off-the-bone ribs in an oven. No problem here! In my recipe, the ribs are simmered in a deeply flavored brew that includes Jägermeister, the German liqueur that brings 56 herbs, spices, roots, and fruits to the braising liquid, then baked in the oven for 2 hours. Afterward, the liquid is boiled down into a decadent glaze for the baby backs.
RIBS
3 racks pork baby back ribs (about 9 pounds total), each rack cut in half vertically
2 tablespoons kosher salt
¼ cup sriracha
2 tablespoons freshly ground black pepper, preferably smoked black pepper
2 tablespoons pure ground ancho chile
2 tablespoons smoked paprika
2 tablespoons onion powder
JÄGERMEISTER BBQ SAUCE
3 (12-ounce) bottles (3 cups) store-bought spicy barbecue sauce, such as Rattler BBQ Sauce
½ cup fresh orange juice
½ cup Jägermeister (see Note, here)
1 navel orange, cut into thin rounds
1 medium red onion, cut into thin rounds
12 large sprigs fresh mint
2 (12-ounce) cans black cherry cola (not diet)
1. To prepare the ribs: Season the ribs all over with the salt. Place on an 18-by-13-inch half-sheet pan and let them stand at room temperature for 15 to 30 minutes.
2. Brush the ribs with sriracha on both sides. Stir the black pepper, ground ancho, paprika, and onion powder together in a small bowl. Spread the rub on top of the sriracha over both sides of the racks.
3. Position the broiler rack about 6 inches from the heat source and preheat the broiler on high. Arrange the ribs on a broiler pan. Broil, turning once or twice, until the ribs are browned, about 10 minutes. (Or prepare an outdoor grill for direct cooking over medium heat. Add the ribs to the cooking grate and cover the grill. Cook the ribs until lightly browned, about 5 minutes per side. If the dripping fat causes flare-ups, move the ribs to a part of the grill that isn’t directly over the heat.)
4. Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat the oven to 300°F. Transfer the ribs to a large, deep flameproof roasting pan, about 14 by 10 by 3 inches, arranging them in a single layer and overlapping as needed.
5. For the sauce: Whisk the barbecue sauce, orange juice, and Jägermeister together in a large bowl. Pour the mixture over the ribs. Scatter the orange rounds, red onion, and mint on top. Pour in the soda. Bring the mixture to a boil on the stove over medium heat. Tightly cover the pan with aluminum foil.
6. Bake in the oven until the ribs are very tender and the meat is pulling away from the bone, about 2 hours. Transfer the ribs to a baking sheet. (The ribs can be cooled, covered with aluminum foil, and refrigerated for up to 1 day.)
7. Meanwhile, let the sauce in the roasting pan stand for about 5 minutes, then skim any fat from the surface. Bring the sauce in the pan to a boil over high heat. Reduce to medium heat and simmer, stirring occasionally, until the sauce thickens and reduces to about 4 cups of glaze, about 10 minutes. Strain the glaze through a wire sieve into a medium bowl. (The glaze can be cooled, covered, and refrigerated for up to 1 day.)
8. When ready to serve, position the broiler rack about 6 inches from the heat source and preheat the broiler on high. Arrange the ribs on the broiler pan and broil, turning once, until lightly browned and sizzling, about 3 minutes per side. Brush the tops with some of the glaze and broil until it is bubbling, about 3 minutes. Turn the ribs over, brush with more glaze, and broil until the other side is bubbling, about 3 minutes more. (Or brown and glaze on an outdoor grill over medium direct heat.) Transfer the ribs to a chopping board and let stand for 3 minutes. Chop between the bones to cut the slab into individual ribs. Serve hot.
Note: You can substitute bourbon for the Jägermeister, but I prefer the latter.