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COSTA BRAVA

Stretching north from Barcelona to the Spanish–French border, the Costa Brava (‘rugged coast’) is undoubtedly the most beautiful of Spain’s three main holiday coasts. Though there’s plenty of tourism development, this wonderfully scenic region of Catalonia also unveils unspoiled coves, spectacular seascapes, wind-battered headlands, coast-hugging hiking paths, charming seaside towns with outstanding restaurants, and some of Spain’s finest diving around the protected Illes Medes.

Delightful stone villages and the majestic Romanesque monastery of Sant Pere de Rodes nestle in the hilly backcountry, cloaked in the south in brilliant-green umbrella pine. Inland, wander northern Catalonia’s biggest city, Girona, home to a moodily atmospheric, strikingly well-preserved medieval centre and one of the world’s top restaurants. Neighbouring Figueres is famed for its bizarre Teatre-Museu Dalí, foremost of a series of sites associated with eccentric surrealist artist Salvador Dalí, who fell, like many others, for the wild natural beauty of seaside Cadaqués.

Tossa de Mar

POP 5050

Tossa de Mar curves around a boat-speckled bay, guarded by a headland crowned with impressive defensive medieval walls and towers. Tourism has bolted a larger, modern extension onto this picturesque village of crooked, narrow streets, though its old town and clifftop views retain their beauty.

Tossa was one of the first places on the Costa Brava to attract foreign visitors: a small colony of artists and writers gravitated towards what Russian-French painter Marc Chagall dubbed ‘Blue Paradise’ in the 1930s. It was made famous by Ava Gardner in the 1951 film Pandora and the Flying Dutchman; you’ll find a statue of the silver-screen queen along the path towards the lighthouse.

In July and August it’s hard to reach the water’s edge without tripping over oily limbs. Outside high season, many attractions and amenities limit hours or close entirely.

1Sights

The deep-ochre fairy-tale walls and towers on pine-dotted Mont Guardí, the headland at the southern end of Tossa’s main beach, were built between the 12th and 14th centuries. They encircle the Vila Vella (old town), which reached peak splendour in the 15th century; it’s now crammed with steep cobbled streets and whitewashed houses garlanded with flowers. A 1917 lighthouse (Passeig de Vila Vella, Mont Guardí; €1.50; h10am-2pm & 4-8pm daily Jul & Aug, 10am-4pm Tue-Sun Sep-Jun) crowns Mont Guardí.

4Sleeping & Eating

Manà Manà HOSTEL€

(%972 34 25 49; www.manamanahostel.com; Carrer Sant Telm 9; dm €20-26, d €58-92; hEaster-Oct; W)

A colourful, sociable hostel just two minutes’ walk from the beach, Manà Manà sleeps budgeteers in four- or six-bed dorms (including a female-only dorm) with individual lockers, shared bathrooms and lively decor. Facilities include a kitchen, self-service laundry and rooftop terrace where communal meals happen. The hostel organises walking tours and other activities, so it’s great for solo travellers.

Cap d’Or HOTEL€€

(%972 34 00 81; www.hotelcapdor.com; Passeig del Mar 1; incl breakfast s €79-85, d €119-135, q €172-195; hEaster–mid-Oct; aW)

Get wrapped up in Tossa’s history at this family-run spot right below the old-town walls. The 10 rooms are lovingly decorated in an array of pastels, each with vintage-feel pictures and cutesy marine miscellany; the best look straight onto the beach. There’s a cheery all-day cafe-restaurant serving seafood, salads, omelettes and snacks (€7 to €12) overlooking the sand.

La Cuina de Can Simón CATALAN€€€

(%972 34 12 69; http://restaurantcansimon.com; Carrer del Portal 24; mains €28-35, tasting menus €68-135; h1-3.30pm & 8-10.30pm, closed Mon Apr-Jul & Sep, closed Sun night, Mon & Tue Oct-Mar)

This is the standout of a slew of restaurants hugging the old wall along Carrer del Portal. Within an 18th-century fisherman’s stone house, Michelin-starred La Cuina de Can Simón credits its innovative dishes to a dual heritage: the owners’ grandparents were a fisherman and an artist. Flavoursome seasonal fusions include meunière sole with Iberian ham, or prawns in cava (sparkling wine).

8Information

Oficina de Turisme de Tossa de Mar (%972 34 01 08; www.infotossa.com; Avinguda del Pelegrí 25; h9am-9pm Mon-Sat, 10am-2pm & 5-8pm Sun Jun-Sep, 10am-2pm & 4-7pm Mon-Sat, 10am-2pm Sun Oct-May, closed Sun Nov-Apr) Next to Tossa’s bus station.

8Getting There & Away

From Tossa’s bus station (Plaça de les Nacions Sense Estat), Sarfa (www.sarfa.com) runs bus services to and from Barcelona’s Estació del Nord (€12.15, 1¼ hours, five to 15 daily) and airport (€14.25, two hours, two to 11 daily), plus Girona airport from mid-June to October (€10, 55 minutes, two daily).

Palafrugell & Around

Halfway up the coast from Barcelona to the French border begins one of the most beautiful stretches of the Costa Brava. The town of Palafrugell, 4km inland, is the main access point for a cluster of enticing beach spots. Calella de Palafrugell, Llafranc and Tamariu, one-time fishing villages squeezed into gorgeous small bays, are three of the Costa Brava’s most charming, low-key resorts.

Begur, 7km northeast of Palafrugell, is a handsomely conserved, castle-topped village with a cluster of less-developed beaches nearby. Inland, seek out tiny Pals and the fabulous cobbled village of Peratallada.

Palafrugell

POP 21,050

Palafrugell, 4km west of the coast, is the main transport, shopping and services hub for the exquisite stretch of Costa Brava extending north from Calella de Palafrugell to Begur. But this inland town is more than just a way station en route to the beach. There are artistic and cultural treasures to uncover in Plaça Can Mario, plus one of the region’s most striking Gothic churches.

Sant Martí de Palafrugell CHURCH

(Plaça de l’Església; hhours vary)

The incomplete multipointed turret of this fine Gothic construction extends skywards like a crown above central Palafrugell. Old documents state that a church has stood here since the 11th century, but what you see of the stately edifice dates to the 17th and 18th centuries.

8Information

Oficina de Turisme Palafrugell (%972 30 02 28; www.visitpalafrugell.cat; Avinguda de la Generalitat 33; h10am-8pm Mon-Sat Jul & Aug, 10am-1pm & 4-7pm Mon-Sat Easter-Jun & Sep–mid-Oct, 10am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1pm & 4-7pm Sat mid-Oct–Easter, 9.30am-1.30pm Sun year-round) Just off the C31 on the southwest edge of town.

8Getting There & Away

From the bus station (Carrer de Lluís Companys), Sarfa (www.sarfa.com) connects Palafrugell with Barcelona (€18.50, 2¼ hours, six to seven daily) and Girona (€6.50, one to 1½ hours, 10 to 21 daily). Buses also run to Calella de Palafrugell, Llafranc and Tamariu (summer only) on the coast.

Calella de Palafrugell

POP 670

The whitewashed buildings of Calella, the southernmost of Palafrugell’s seaside crown jewels, cluster Aegean-style around a bay of rocky points and small, pretty beaches, with a few fishing boats hauled up on the sand. Though deservedly well known for its beauteous bay, Calella has resisted the temptation to sprawl, and maintains its agreeably tucked-away feel, despite being merrily packed with visitors in summer.

1Sights & Activities

From Calella, you can stroll along dreamy coastal footpaths – including the long-distance GR92 and Camí de Ronda – northeast to Llafranc (30 minutes, 1.5km), Tamariu (two to three hours, around 6km) and beyond, or south to Platja del Golfet, near Cap Roig (1.5km, 40 minutes).

Jardins de Cap Roig GARDENS

(Cap Roig; adult/child €7/free; h10am-8pm Apr-Sep, to 6pm Oct-Mar, weekends only Jan & Feb)

Atop Cap Roig, 2km southwest of central Calella, these beautiful botanical gardens contain approximately 1000 floral species, set around the early-20th-century castle-palace of Nikolai Voevodsky – a tsarist colonel with expensive tastes, who fell out of grace in his homeland after the Russian revolution.

THE CAMÍ DE RONDA

The 230km-long stretch of cliffs, coves, rocky promontories and pine groves that make up the signposted Camí de Ronda (also known as the Costa Brava Way) extends from Blanes in Catalonia to Collioure in France. Unsurprisingly, it offers some of the finest walks in Catalonia, from gentle rambles to high-octane scrambles. If you fancy tackling the whole thing, it’s a demanding hike of around 10 days. The trail mostly follows the established GR92, but includes a number of coastal deviations.

Some of the most popular stretches link Calella de Palafrugell, Llafranc, Tamariu and the Begur area. Another choice route is Cadaqués to the Far Cap de Creus lighthouse, a relatively easy walk (8km; 2½ hours) that passes Port Lligat and several isolated beaches.

4Sleeping & Eating

Hotel Mediterrani HOTEL€€€

(%972 61 45 00; www.hotelmediterrani.com; Carrer de Lladó 55; incl breakfast s €99-150, d €99-245; hApr-Oct; paW)

Fresh, boutique-ified rooms decked out in serene creams, many with exquisite views of a sliver of sand and the aquamarine sea, make this long-standing and welcoming family-run hotel at the southwest end of town very hard to beat. Best are the top-floor boudoirs with private sun decks.

Tragamar SEAFOOD, INTERNATIONAL€€

(%972 62 43 36; www.tragamar.com; Platja del Canadell; mains €12-22; hnoon-11pm Jul & Aug, closed 1 day weekly Easter-Jun & Sep–mid-Oct, closed mid-Oct–Easter; v)

Barely a metre off the beach, with tables gazing out on the bay, this is the Calella branch of Barcelona’s hugely successful Tragaluz restaurant empire. The menu trots around the globe, contrasting Catalan favourites and Costa Brava seafood with Asian- and Mediterranean-inspired bites like salt-crusted edamame, tuna tataki with guacamole and tasty salads.

8Information

Oficina de Turisme Calella de Palafrugell (%972 61 44 75; www.visitpalafrugell.cat; Carrer de les Voltes 4; h10am-1pm & 5-8pm Jul & Aug, 10am-1pm & 5-8pm Mon-Sat, 10am-1pm Sun Jun & Sep, open weekends only Apr & May) Seasonal office just back from the beachfront.

8Getting There & Away

Sarfa/Moventis (www.sarfa.com; www.moventis.es) buses link Calella with Palafrugell (€1.70, 15 minutes, three to 19 daily), plus Tamariu and Llafranc.

CATALONIA & SPAIN

Like many European nations, the kingdom of Spain was cobbled together by a series of conquests and dynastic alliances from what were once separate states. Though the last of these was over 500 years ago, people in the peninsula still tend to identify more strongly with their ancestral village or local region – the patria chica (‘small fatherland’) – than with the nation as a whole. There are separatist movements in parts of the peninsula, but especially in the Basque Country and Catalonia.

Away from Barcelona and the Costa Brava, Catalonia feels as if you’ve entered a separate country. Little Spanish is spoken and the red-and-yellow flag of the region flutters from the balconies. The widespread feeling, as expressed by an often-encountered piece of graffiti, is that ‘Catalonia is not Spain’.

The genesis of Catalonia began when the Franks, under Charlemagne, pushed back the Moors in the 8th and 9th centuries. The Catalan golden age came in the early 12th century when Ramon Berenguer III, who already controlled Catalonia and parts of southern France, launched the region’s first seagoing fleet. In 1137 his successor, Ramon Berenguer IV, was betrothed to the one-year-old heiress to the Aragonese throne, thereby giving Catalonia sufficient power to expand its empire out into the Mediterranean but joining it to another crown. Modern Spain was effectively created when Fernando became king of Aragón in 1479, having already married Isabel, Queen of Castile.

Catalonia resented its new subordinate status but could do little to overturn it. After backing the losing side in the War of Spanish Succession (1702–14), Barcelona rose up against the Spanish crown, whose armies besieged the city from March 1713 until 11 September 1714. The victorious Felipe V abolished Catalan privileges, banned writing and teaching in Catalan, and farmed out Catalonia’s colonies to other European powers.

Trade again flourished from Barcelona in the centuries that followed, and by the late 19th and early 20th centuries there were growing calls for greater self-governance. However, after the Spanish Civil War ended in 1939, pro-republic Catalonia was treated harshly by victorious General Franco. Reprisals and purges resulted in the shootings of at least 35,000 people. The use of Catalan in public was banned and all street and town names were changed into Spanish, which became the only permitted language in schools and the media. Self-government was returned after Franco’s death in 1975, though the sense of grievance remains.

Recent decades have seen Catalan culture flourish, reflected in the reemergence of traditional festivals and dances, the prevalence of Catalan flags and the near-universal use of Catalan in public. For Catalans, their language is the key to their identity.

The issue of independence from Spain has been at the forefront of Catalan politics for years, and it took on greater importance and urgency following Spain’s economic crisis beginning in 2008. In September 2015, the pro-independence coalition Junts pel Sí (‘Together for Yes’), led by Carles Puigdemont, won over 39% of votes in Catalan parliamentary elections. With the support of the far-left, pro-independence Candidatura d’Unitat Popular (CUP), Junts pel Sí formed a government, promising to hold a referendum on Catalan independence.

The central Spanish government in Madrid, under Prime Minister Mariano Rajoy of the Partido Popular (PP; People’s Party), said that such a referendum would be illegal. The Catalan government went ahead and declared it was going to hold one on 1 October 2017. The Spanish government sent in the Policía Nacional (Spain’s national police) to try to prevent the referendum taking place, resulting in some scenes of violence at polling stations, with, the Catalan government said, over 800 people injured. According to the Catalan government, of the 43% of potential voters who took part in the referendum, 90% voted for independence. Spain’s constitutional court had declared the referendum illegal before it took place.

Large crowds, especially in Barcelona, protested against the Spanish police action and the Spanish government’s attempt to stop the referendum. In the following days, however, a wave of support for Spanish national unity swept through much of the rest of the country and even Catalonia itself, including an anti-independence demonstration of 350,000 people in Barcelona. Before the referendum, some opinion polls had come up with the finding that only about 40% to 45% of the Catalan population supported independence.

On 27 October, after a period of shadow boxing between Madrid and Barcelona in which hopes for a compromise came to nothing, the Catalan parliament voted for independence, and the national parliament in Madrid invoked Article 155 of the Spanish constitution (never used before), which allows it to rescind the autonomy of regions in extreme circumstances, bringing them under direct rule from Madrid. This meant the dismissal of Puigdemont, the dissolution of the Catalan parliament, and the announcement of new regional elections in Catalonia for 21 December 2017.

Not long after, Spain’s attorney-general charged Puigdemont and 13 of his ministers with rebellion and sedition, which carry maximum sentences of 30 years and 15 years respectively. But by then Puigdemont and four ministers had disappeared to Brussels, and, at the time of writing, remain there, adamant that they will not return to Spain unless they are guaranteed a fair trial.

In the 21 December election, Catalonia’s separatist parties won 70 of the 135 parliamentary seats, giving them the possibility of forming the new Catalan government. The exiled Puigdemont was the favourite for the new Catalan presidency, but in March 2018 he abandoned his bid to return to office; Puigdemont backed as president Jordi Sànchez, also of his Junts per Catalunya party (which was newly formed for the December election). At the time of writing, Spain’s Supreme Court refuses to allow Sànchez to be released for an investiture ceremony (Sànchez has been in police custody on charges of sedition since October 2017), while Puigdemont is highly likely to be arrested upon returning to Spain.

The overall situation remains uncertain, though the Catalan independence movement shows no signs of slowing down. Some Catalans feel their taxes subsidise the rest of the nation, and the tough economic times resulting from the 2008 economic crisis have exacerbated this feeling. But the very fact that Catalonia is such a valuable asset makes the central government very unwilling to let it go.

Llafranc

POP 280

Barely 2km northeast of Calella de Palafrugell, and now merging with it along the roads set back from the rocky coast between them, upmarket Llafranc has a small aquamarine bay and a gorgeous long stretch of golden sand, cupped on either side by craggy pine-dotted outcrops and coastline. July and August bring sun-seeking crowds, but otherwise it’s a peaceful, beautiful spot.

1Sights & Activities

The long-distance GR92 and Camí de Ronda link Llafranc with nearby coastal villages, including Tamariu (1½ hours, about 4.5km) and Calella de Palafrugell (30 minutes, 1.5km), allowing for short, spectacular walks. There are plenty of easy walks doable in beach sandals; the tourist office has details. Kayaking, SUP (stand-up paddleboarding) and SUP yoga are other popular activities.

oCap de Sant Sebastià VIEWPOINT

The magical promontory framing the eastern end of Llafranc offers fabulous views in both directions and out to sea. It hosts an 1857 lighthouse (with a summer lounge bar), plus a 15th-century watchtower and an 18th-century chapel now incorporated into an upmarket hotel. Also here are the ruins of a pre-Roman Iberian settlement (with multilingual explanatory panels). It’s a 1.2km (20-minute) walk up from central Llafranc: follow the steps from the harbour. You can continue north to Tamariu (4km, about an hour).

4Sleeping & Eating

Terralet HOTEL€€

(%972 30 64 54; www.terraletllafranc.com; Carrer de Carudo 12-14; d €95-125, tr €135-155, q €135-175; hMar-Oct; W)

Freshly launched at research time, turquoise-accented Terralet is just a stumble north from the beach. Immaculate, stripped-back white-and-aqua rooms come in a range of shapes and sizes, from tasteful twins to family pads with lounge, all simply yet stylishly furnished. There’s a pleasant downstairs cafe-bar, and rooftop yoga and meditation are offered.

Hotel El Far HOTEL€€€

(%972 30 16 39; www.hotelelfar.com; Cap de Sant Sebastià; r incl breakfast €200-300; hmid-Feb–mid-Jan; paW)

At romantic El Far – a happy marriage between secluded clifftop luxury and delectable local seafood – each plush, maritime-feel room has its own balcony, most affording superb sea vistas. The restaurant turns out fresh seafood and rice dishes (mains €17 to €27), including good fideuà (seafood and noodle dish), while the surrounding pathway has panoramic views of Llafranc’s glowing coast, a steep 1.2km (20-minute) walk away.

Casamar CATALAN€€€

(%972 30 01 04; www.hotelcasamar.net; Carrer del Nero 3; mains €21-30, set menus €48-73; h1.30-3.30pm & 8.30-11pm Tue-Sun Apr-Dec, closed Sun evening Sep-Dec & Apr-Jun)

Fabulously located on a headland overlooking Llafranc’s bay and harbour, this top-notch Michelin-starred restaurant serves classy seafood and artful mains concocted with creatively selected ingredients, in a refreshingly friendly atmosphere. For sunny days, there’s a lovely pine-fringed terrace. Stairs lead up from the western end of the beach.

It’s also a popular hotel (%972 30 01 04; www.hotelcasamar.net; Carrer del Nero 3; r incl breakfast €120-145; hApr-Dec; aW), with 20 cosy, contemporary, all-white rooms, most sporting balconies and sea vistas.

8Information

Oficina de Turisme de Llafranc (%972 30 50 08; www.visitpalafrugell.cat; Passeig de Cípsela; h10am-1pm & 5-8pm Jul & Aug, 10am-1pm & 5-8pm Mon-Sat, 10am-1pm Sun Jun & Sep–mid-Oct, weekends only Apr & May) Seasonal kiosk at the western end of the beach.

8Getting There & Away

Sarfa/Moventis (www.sarfa.com; www.moventis.es) buses serve Llafranc from Palafrugell (€1.70, 20 minutes, three to 20 daily), as well as Tamariu and Calella de Palafrugell.

Tamariu

POP 130

Four kilometres north from Llafranc, tiny, quiet Tamariu fronts a fabulous, crescent-shaped cove infused with the scent of pine and fringed by pretty whitewashed houses. This beach has some of the most translucent waters on Spain’s Mediterranean coast.

Lovely coastal walks start from Tamariu, mostly along the long-distance GR92 and Camí de Ronda ; the most popular walk is south to Llafranc via Cap de Sant Sebastià (1½ hours, about 4.5km). It’s also easy to find kayaking and SUP outlets.

4Sleeping & Eating

Hotel Tamariu HOTEL€€

(%972 62 00 31; www.tamariu.com; Passeig del Mar 2; incl breakfast s €84-102, d €96-168; hlate Feb-early Nov; aW)

A former fishermen’s tavern, the jolly Hotel Tamariu has been family-run for four generations. It has spacious rooms in nautical turquoises and whites, some with a balcony offering vine-draped views of this little beach town. The owners also rent two- to three-bedroom apartments nearby.

The beach-facing restaurant, El Clot dels Mussols (%972 62 00 31; www.tamariu.com; Passeig del Mar 2; mains €16-23; h1-10.30pm mid-Jun–mid-Sep, 1-3.30pm & 7-10.30pm mid-Sep–Nov & late Feb–mid-Jun), is popular for its seafood and set menus (€25 to €30).

8Information

Oficina de Turisme de Tamariu (%972 62 01 93; www.visitpalafrugell.cat; Carrer de la Riera; h10am-1pm & 5-8pm Jul & Aug, 10am-1pm & 5-8pm Mon-Sat, 10am-1pm Sun Jun & Sep) Summer-only information point.

8Getting There & Away

Sarfa/Moventis (www.sarfa.com; www.moventis.es) buses connect Tamariu with Palafrugell (€1.70, 15 minutes, three to 12 daily) from mid-May to mid-October only.

Begur & Around

POP 1240

Crowned by an 11th-century castle, with exquisite coast glistening in its surrounds, Begur is one of the most beautiful and sought-after spots along the Costa Brava. This fairy-tale town, 8km northeast of Palafrugell, has a tempting array of restaurants, beach-chic boutiques, soothing heritage and boutique hotels, and Modernista mansions that add splashes of colour among the stone streets of its medieval centre. And if that weren’t enough, a series of scenic winding roads spiral down to dreamy little coves hemmed in by pines, like Aiguablava, Fornells, Sa Tuna, Sa Riera and Aiguafreda.

1Sights & Activities

There are some lovely walking trails around Begur, including to several attractive beaches and an 11.5km hike south to Tamariu (five hours) along the GR92.

The tourist office has leaflets for self-guided historical walking tours.

Castell de Begur CASTLE

(Pujada al Castell; h24hr) F

There is little to explore aside from the ragged ruins of this medieval castle, still in much the same state as when it was wrecked by Spanish troops to impede the advance of Napoleon’s army in 1810. A steep, signposted 1km walk leads from central Begur to the ramparts (25 minutes), with breathtaking views over hills rolling towards the Mediterranean.

Església de Sant Pere CHURCH

(Plaça de l’Església; hhours vary)

Begur’s stocky sandstone church presides over lively Plaça de la Vila. Much of the building dates to the 17th century, though a church has stood on this spot since 1199.

DON’T MISS

TREASURED BEACHES AROUND BEGUR

With tiny coves framed by pine trees and subtropical flowers, and lapped by crystalline water, the sublime coastline around Begur is home to some of Spain’s most gorgeous beaches. Thanks to their small size and difficult access, many remain largely undeveloped.

From mid-June to mid-September, Sarfa (www.sarfa.com) runs bus platges (€1) services to Sa Tuna, Sa Riera, Fornells and Aiguablava from Begur’s Plaça de Forgas.

Cala d’Aiguafreda (Cala d’Aiguafreda) Around 4.5km northeast of Begur you’ll find this tiny, divine rocky cove, where trails fringed by pine trees stretch around a headland. It’s more a picturesque place for a stroll than a sunbathing spot.

Platja Fonda (Fornells) From just northeast of Fornells’ car park (4km south of Begur), stone stairs lead down to signposted Platja Fonda, a slate-grey pebbly beach that lures sunbathers (though it can be choppy). A path signed ‘Fornells’ branches off just before the steps to reach a stunning stony outcrop with a natural pool, where cerulean waves smash against rocks.

Cala de Sa Tuna (Sa Tuna) The finely pebbled beach of Sa Tuna sits in a small cove 3km east of Begur, fringed by now-remodelled fishers’ houses. There are restaurants and parking, though the water can be a little unsettled, and this scenic stretch of coast is backed by an old stone watchtower. You can walk to Sa Tuna along a 2.3km path from Begur.

4Sleeping & Eating

Sa Barraca B&B€€

(%972 62 33 60; www.sabarraca.com; Carrer Begur–Aiguablava (GIV6532); r €67-85; paW)

This exceptionally welcoming, good-value B&B sits hidden up high on a pine-covered hillside, 3km south of Begur en route to Aiguablava beach, unveiling some of the finest coastal views around. It’s expertly run by charming hosts who prepare fresh breakfasts, and there are just seven homey, spacious rooms, all with wide-open terraces.

oCluc Hotel BOUTIQUE HOTEL€€€

(%972 62 48 59; www.cluc.cat; Carrer del Metge Pi 8; r incl breakfast €99-171; aW)

One of old-town Begur’s chicest, yet friendliest, hotels unfolds across this ravishing, revamped 1800 casa d’indians (house built by a returned colonist). The 12 rooms are on the small side, but decorated in elegant vintage style with restored furniture and tile-covered floors. Expect an honesty bar, a library and homemade breakfasts on a charming terrace. No kids under 12.

Sa Rascassa HOSTAL€€€

(%972 62 28 45; www.hostalsarascassa.com; Cala d’Aiguafreda; s/d incl breakfast €128/160; hMar-Nov; aW#)

It’s a choice of five rooms at this glammed-up and efficiently operated hostal tucked away in pine-shaded Cala d’Aiguafreda, 4.5km northeast of Begur. Dove greys and cosy creams speckle the tasteful, unfussy rooms, all with garden views. There’s ample outdoor lounging space, plus an honesty bar and a summer xiringuito (beach bar), and you can’t beat the secluded location.

In the candlelit garden, the fantastic contemporary-Catalan restaurant (%972 62 28 45; www.hostalsarascassa.com; Cala d’Aiguafreda; mains €13-21; h1.30-3.30pm & 8.30-11pm Mar-Nov, closed Tue Sep-Nov & Apr-Jun, evenings only Mar; W) delights palettes with daily fresh seafood, grilled meats, crunchy salads, creamy rices and more.

Aiguaclara HERITAGE HOTEL€€€

(%972 62 29 05; www.hotelaiguaclara.com; Carrer Santa Teresa 3; hmid-Feb–mid-Dec; aW)

Filled with both historical charm and boutique flavour, romantic Aiguaclara is set within a pink-washed mid-19th-century casa d’indians. Original soaring ceilings and antique tiles mingle with contemporary art, retro styling, pops of colour and gleaming modern bathrooms in the 10 airy, uncluttered rooms. Great breakfasts start the day, while a cocktail lounge and excellent restaurant (mains €12-19; h7.30-10.30pm Mon-Sat Jul & Aug, 7.30-10.30pm Tue-Sat Sep–mid-Dec & mid-Feb–Jun) occupy the fairy-lit garden.

8Information

Oficina de Turisme de Begur (%972 62 45 20; www.visitbegur.com; Avinguda del Onze de Setembre 5; h9am-9pm Mon-Fri, 10am-9pm Sat & Sun Jul-Sep, to 8pm Oct & Jun, 9am-3pm Mon-Fri Nov-May, hours vary) Helpful office with information on Begur’s sights, walks and beaches.

8Getting There & Away

Sarfa (www.sarfa.com) buses run to Barcelona’s Estació del Nord (€19.50, two to 2½ hours, two to seven daily), many via Palafrugell (€1.70, 15 minutes, four to 16 daily), and to Girona (€8.35, 1¼ hours, one daily weekdays).

WHAT’S COOKING IN CATALONIA?

Cuina Catalana rivals Basque cuisine as Spain’s best, drawing ingredients from mar i muntanya (sea and mountain). Its essence lies in quality local ingredients and sauces for meat and fish. There are five main sauces: sofregit, of fried onion, tomato and garlic; samfaina, sofregit plus red pepper and aubergine or courgette; picada, based on ground almonds, usually with garlic, parsley, pine nuts or hazelnuts, and sometimes breadcrumbs; allioli, garlic pounded with olive oil and egg yolk to make a mayonnaise; and romesco, an almond, tomato, olive oil, garlic and vinegar sauce.

Enjoy top-notch seafood all along the Costa Brava, served grilled or in fideuà (a noodle-based paella). Down south, don’t miss duck with rice in the Delta de l’Ebre.

Inland, cheeses, cured meats and root vegetables reign supreme. Llonganissa sausage, a speciality of Vic, is one must-try delicacy. Calçots, a type of long spring onion, are delicious as a starter with romesco sauce and in season in late winter/early spring. The La Garrotxa region is famous for its earthy cuina volcànica (volcanic cuisine).

Otherwise, Catalans seem to live on pa amb tomàquet, bread rubbed with tomato, olive oil and garlic.

Pals

POP 1040

About 7km northwest of shimmering Begur, halfway to popular Peratallada, sits the gorgeous walled town of Pals. Although most of its historical buildings can only be admired from outside, simply wandering the uneven cobbled lanes and peeking into the many medieval corners makes a visit worthwhile.

DON’T MISS

DALÍ’S CASTELL DE PÚBOL

If you’re intrigued by artist Salvador Dalí, the Castell de Púbol (www.salvador-dali.org; Plaça de Gala Dalí, Púbol; adult/concession €8/6; h10am-7.15pm mid-Jun–mid-Sep, 10am-5.15pm Tue-Sun mid-Mar–mid-Jun & mid-Sep–Oct, 10am-4.15pm Tue-Sun Nov-early Jan) is an essential piece of the puzzle. Between Girona and Palafrugell (22km northwest of the latter, south off the C66), this 14th-century castle was Dalí’s gift to his wife and muse Gala, who is buried here. The Gothic-Renaissance building, with creeper-covered walls, spiral stone staircases and a shady garden, was decorated to Gala’s taste, though there are surrealist touches like a grimacing anglerfish fountain and a pouting-lips sofa.

The life of Gala Dalí is fascinating in its own right, due to her entanglement with several pivotal figures in the first half of the 20th century. Gala married French poet Paul Éluard in 1917, had a two-year affair with pioneer of Dadaism Max Ernst, and then met Dalí in 1929. With Dalí’s approval she continued to take lovers, though their loyalty to each other remained fierce. Russian-born Gala was as admired for her elegance as much as she was feared for her imposing manners.

In 1969 Dalí finally found the ideal residence to turn into Gala’s refuge. At the age of 76, Gala preferred to flit in and out of Dalí’s decadent lifestyle. Dalí was only permitted to visit the castle with advance written permission, a restriction that held considerable erotic charge for the artist.

To get here, catch a bus to Cruilla de la Pera from Girona (€3, 40 minutes, 10 to 19 daily) or Palafrugell (€3.05, 25 minutes, seven to 13 daily), and alight at the stop on the C66 then walk 2km south to the castle. Alternatively, take a train from Girona to Flaça (€3.30, 15 minutes, at least 15 daily), then taxi the last 5km.

1Sights

The tourist office (%972 63 73 80; www.visitpals.com; Plaça Major; h10am-2.30pm & 5-8pm Apr-Sep, 10am-5pm Oct-Mar) provides detailed booklets (Catalan, Spanish and English) for self-guided walking tours of Pals’ old town.

Torre de les Hores TOWER

(Clock Tower; Carrer de la Torre)

Pals’ main monument is the 15m-high Romanesque Torre de les Hores, originally part of a castle; its 16th-century bell still rings today.

8Getting There & Away

Sarfa (www.sarfa.com) buses run from Pals to Barcelona’s Estació del Nord (€20, 2½ hours, three daily) and airport (€22, 3¼ hours, two daily), plus Begur (€1.70, 10 minutes, four to six daily), Palafrugell (€1.70, 25 minutes, four to six daily) and Girona (€6.70, one hour, daily on weekdays).

Peratallada

POP 130

As soon as you set foot in heart-stoppingly pretty Peratallada, 15km northwest of Begur, it’s obvious why this fortified medieval town is beloved by Barcelona day trippers, French tourists and everyone else. Pale archways, cobbled squares and sandstone houses strung with ivy conjure an air of fairy-tale romance, though most of the historic buildings can only be gazed at from the outside. Peratallada’s many visitors are well catered for by handicraft and clothing shops that beckon from laneways winding between crumbling walls and an 11th-century castle.

Església de Sant Esteve CHURCH

(Plaça de l’Església; hhours vary)

This graceful late-Romanesque church stands just outside Peratallada’s historic centre, on the north edge of town.

El Cau del Papibou HOTEL€€

(%972 63 47 16; http://hotelelcaudelpapibou.com; Carrer Major 10; r €110-130; hJan-Nov, closed Mon & Tue Oct-Mar; W)

Stylish, colour-themed rooms with beamed ceilings, distressed-wood decor and rustic views fill this friendly, characterful hideaway in a 12th-century building in the heart of Peratallada. Downstairs, the restaurant serves creative, local-inspired tapas (€3.80) at benches in an ivy-draped alley.

La Riera CATALAN€€

(%972 63 41 42; www.lariera.es; Plaça de les Voltes 3; mains €13-20; h1-3.30pm & 8-10.30pm Mar-Jan)

Opening onto a flower-filled terrace, this sophisticated yet friendly eatery within a 15th-century old-town building simmers up an excellent range of rice dishes, from simple seafood paella to arròs de llamàntol (lobster rice), as well as earthy roasted meats such as entrecôte in mushroom sauce and grilled duck.

It’s also an esteemed hostal (double including breakfast €80).

8Getting There & Away

Weekday Sarfa (www.sarfa.com) buses serve Peratallada from Palafrugell (€4, 35 to 55 minutes, two daily), Begur (€2.50, 20 to 40 minutes, two daily) and Girona (€6, 55 minutes, one daily).

Girona

POP 94,300

Northern Catalonia’s largest city, Girona is a jewellery box of museums, galleries and Gothic churches, strung around a web of cobbled lanes and medieval walls. Reflections of Modernista mansions shimmer in the Riu Onyar, which separates the walkable historic centre on its eastern bank from the gleaming commercial centre on the west.

The Roman town of Gerunda lay on the Via Augusta from Gades (now Cádiz) to the Pyrenees. Taken from the Muslims by the Franks in the late 8th century, Girona became the capital of one of Catalonia’s most important counties, falling under the sway of Barcelona in the late 9th century. Girona’s wealth in medieval times produced many fine Romanesque and Gothic buildings that have survived repeated attacks, while a Jewish community flourished here until its expulsion in 1492.

With Catalonia’s most diverse nightlife and dining scene outside Barcelona, Girona makes a delicious distraction from the coast.

Girona

1Top Sights

1 Catedral de GironaC2

2Museu d’Història dels JueusC3

1Sights

3Banys ÀrabsC2

4Basílica de Sant FeliuC2

5Monestir de Sant Pere de GalligantsD2

Museu d’Arqueologia de Catalunya–Girona(see 5)

6Museu d’Art de GironaC3

7Museu del CinemaB5

8Museu d’Història de GironaC3

9Passeig ArqueològicC2

4Sleeping

10BellmiralC3

11Bells OficisB5

12Casa CúndaroC3

13Hotel HistòricD3

14Hotel Llegendes de Girona CatedralC2

15Palau dels AlemanysD3

5Eating

16B12C5

17Café Le BistrotC4

18La FábricaC4

19NuC5

20RocambolescB4

6Drinking & Nightlife

21Espresso MafiaC4

1Sights

Girona’s exquisitely preserved Call (Jewish Quarter) – a labyrinth of low-slung stone arches and slender cobbled streets – flourished around narrow Carrer de la Força for six centuries, until relentless Christian persecution forced the Jews out of Spain.

oCatedral de Girona CATHEDRAL

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.catedraldegirona.org; Plaça de la Catedral; adult/student incl Basílica de Sant Feliu €7/5; h10am-7.30pm Jul & Aug, to 6.30pm Apr-Jun, Sep & Oct, to 5.30pm Nov-Mar)

Towering over a flight of 86 steps rising from Plaça de la Catedral, Girona’s imposing cathedral is far more ancient than its billowing baroque facade suggests. Built over an old Roman forum, parts of its foundations date from the 5th century. Today, 14th-century Gothic styling (added over an 11th-century Romanesque church) dominates, though a beautiful, double-columned Romanesque cloister dates from the 12th century. With the world’s second-widest Gothic nave, it’s a formidable sight to explore, but audio guides are provided.

Highlights include the richly carved fantastical beasts and biblical scenes in the cloister’s southern gallery, and a 14th-century silver altarpiece, studded with gemstones. Also seek out the bishop’s throne and the museum, which holds the masterly Romanesque Tapís de la creació (Tapestry of the Creation). There is also a Mozarabic illuminated Beatus manuscript, dating from 975. The facade and belltower weren’t completed until the 18th century.

oMuseu d’Història dels Jueus MUSEUM

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.girona.cat/call; Carrer de la Força 8; adult/child €4/free; h10am-8pm Mon-Sat, 10am-2pm Sun Jul & Aug, 10am-2pm Mon & Sun, 10am-6pm Tue-Sat Sep-Jun)

Until 1492, Girona was home to Catalonia’s second-most important medieval Jewish community, after Barcelona, and one of the country’s finest Jewish quarters. This excellent museum takes pride in Girona’s Jewish heritage, without shying away from less salubrious aspects such as Inquisition persecution and forced conversions. You also see a rare 11th-century miqvé (ritual bath) and a 13th-century Jewish house.

Museu d’Art de Girona GALLERY

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.museuart.com; Pujada de la Catedral 12; admission €4.50, incl Catedral and Basílica de Sant Feliu €10; h10am-7pm Tue-Sat May-Sep, to 6pm Oct-Apr, 10am-2pm Sun year-round)

Next to the cathedral, in the 12th- to 16th-century Palau Episcopal, this art gallery impresses with the scale and variety of its collection. Around 8500 pieces of art, mostly from this region, fill its displays, which range from Romanesque woodcarvings and murals to paintings of the city by 20th-century Polish-French artist Mela Mutter, early-20th-century sculptures by influential Catalan architect Rafael Masó i Valentí, and works by leading Modernista artist Santiago Rusiñol.

Basílica de Sant Feliu BASILICA

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Plaça de Sant Feliu; adult/student incl Catedral €7/5; h10am-5.30pm Mon-Sat, 1-5.30pm Sun)

Just downhill from the cathedral stands Girona’s second great church, with its landmark truncated bell tower. The nave is majestic with Gothic ribbed vaulting, while St Narcissus, the city’s patron, is venerated in an enormous marble-and-jasper, late-baroque side chapel. To the right of the chapel is the saint’s Gothic, 1328 sepulchre (which previously held his remains), displaying his reclining form and scenes from his life including the conversion of women, martyrdom and expelling of an evil genie. Audio guides included.

Banys Àrabs RUINS

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.banysarabs.org; Carrer de Ferran el Catòlic; adult/child €2/1; h10am-7pm Mon-Sat, to 2pm Sun Mar-Oct, 10am-2pm Nov-Feb)

Although modelled on earlier Islamic and Roman bathhouses, the Banys Àrabs are a finely preserved, 12th-century Christian affair in Romanesque style (restored in the 13th century). The baths contain an apodyterium (changing room), with a small octagonal pool framed by slender pillars, followed by a frigidarium and tepidarium (with respectively cold and warm water) and a caldarium (a kind of sauna) heated by an underfloor furnace.

Passeig Arqueològic WALLS

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Passeig de la Muralla; Carrer de Ferran el Catòlic; hdawn-dusk) F

A walk along Girona’s majestic medieval walls is a wonderful way to soak up the city landscape. There are several access points; the most popular is opposite the Banys Àrabs (at the north end of the old town), where steps lead up into heavenly gardens where town and plants merge into one organic masterpiece. The southernmost part of the wall ends near Plaça de Catalunya, and the Torre de Sant Domènec is a fantastic lookout point.

Monestir de Sant Pere de Galligants MONASTERY

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.mac.cat; Carrer de Santa Llúcia; adult/child incl Museu d’Arqueologia de Catalunya–Girona €4.50/3.50; h10am-6pm Tue-Sat Oct-Apr, 10am-7pm Tue-Sat May-Sep, 10am-2pm Sun year-round)

This beautiful 11th- and 12th-century Romanesque Benedectine monastery has a sublime bell tower and a splendid cloister featuring otherworldly animals and mythical creatures on the 60 capitals of its double columns; there are some great ones in the church too.

Spread across the monastery is the Museu d’Arqueologia de Catalunya–Girona (MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.mac.cat; Carrer de Santa Llúcia 8; incl Monestir de Sant Pere de Galligants adult/child €4.50/3.50; h10am-6pm Tue-Sat Oct-Apr, 10am-7pm Tue-Sat May-Sep, 10am-2pm Sun year round), exhibiting artefacts dating from prehistoric to medieval times.

Museu d’Història de Girona MUSEUM

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.girona.cat/museuhistoria; Carrer de la Força 27; adult/student/child €4/2/free; h10.30am-5.30pm Tue-Sat Oct-Apr, 10.30am-6.30pm Tue-Sat May-Sep, 10.30am-1.30pm Sun year-round)

Eighteenth-century cloisters lend an appropriately antique feel to this journey from Roman Girona to medieval times to the present day. The museum’s highlights include an exhibition illuminating the 3rd- to 4th-century Can Pau Birol mosaic, which depicts a lively circus scene with charioteers, and an explanation of the 1808 to 1809 siege of Girona by Napoleonic troops. Many pieces on display are copies rather than originals. Spanish-, English- and French-language booklets help with the Catalan-only display labels.

GIRONA’S JEWS

The first records of a Jewish presence in Girona date to the 9th century and, by its 13th-century heyday, Girona’s Jewish community was the second-largest in Catalonia (behind Barcelona). Jewish inhabitants lived, generally speaking, peacefully alongside their Christian neighbours, gaining in prosperity and contributing to fields as diverse as astronomy, mathematics and medicine.

Nevertheless, the Jewish communities came under Christian attack, especially in the 12th and 13th centuries. Girona’s Call – a maze of slim alleys, surrounded by a stone wall – went from refuge to ghetto as Jews were gradually confined to their tiny corner of the town and banned from living beyond its western limits. Especially stomach-churning were the ‘Disputes’, rigged debates intended to ridicule pillars of the Jewish community against the supposedly superior logic of Christians. The spin of the day reported that these debates led to mass conversions, but it’s likelier that Jews converted out of pressure and fear. Slander against Jews became increasingly grotesque, with tales of murdered Christian infants.

Things came to a head during a riot in 1391, when a mob broke into the Call, massacring 40 residents. Since the Jews were still under the king’s protection, troops were sent in and the survivors confined to the Galligants Tower for 17 weeks (allegedly for their own safety), only to find their houses destroyed upon returning. Many converted to Christianity during the 15th century. In 1492, those who remained unconverted were expelled from Spain, ending a story that had been over 500 years in the making.

4Sleeping

Girona’s most atmospheric accommodation choices are hidden away in the old town. Don’t rule out the west bank of the river, Girona’s commercial side: there are some quality hotels within walking distance of the top sights.

oBells Oficis B&B€€

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %972 22 81 70; www.bellsoficis.com; Carrer dels Germans Busquets 2; r incl breakfast €42-93; aW)

A lovingly restored 19th-century apartment towards the south end of the old town, Bells Oficis makes a stylish, ultra-welcoming base. It’s the former home of Catalan artist Jaume Busquets i Mollera, and retains period details in the five very different rooms (one of which is a teeny two-bunk pad). Three rooms share a bathroom; one en-suite room has no bathroom door.

Casa Cúndaro GUESTHOUSE€€

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %972 22 35 83; www.casacundaro.com; Pujada de la Catedral 7; d €59-79, q & apt €99; aW)

The understated exterior of this medieval Jewish house hides five characterful rooms and four self-catering apartments (for two to five people), all mixing original open-stone walls and antique doors with modern comfort. It’s right next to the cathedral – a boon or a bane, depending on whether you enjoy the sound of church bells. Reserve well in advance.

The owners also run the more upmarket Hotel Històric (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %972 22 35 83; www.hotelhistoric.com; Carrer de Bellmirall 4A; r €90-170; aW), just down the street.

Bellmiral PENSION€€

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %972 20 40 09; http://bellmirall.eu; Carrer de Bellmiral 3; incl breakfast s €49-66, d €83-88; W)

An inviting rustic-feel guesthouse hidden up high in Girona’s historic core, Bellmiral unravels across a centuries-old stone house artily decorated with paintings and bright accents of colour. The seven rooms, five of which have old-town views, are a tad more modern than you’d expect, with exposed-stone walls.

oPalau dels Alemanys HERITAGE HOTEL€€€

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %618 536852; www.allotjamentsingular.com; Carrer dels Alemanys 10; r incl breakfast €150-250)

A stay at this intimate historical boutique beauty of an old-town hotel revolves around three exquisite ‘suites’ (mini-apartments with kitchenettes), under the watch of a keen young owner. Original architectural features, like Gothic arches and 18th-century stone walls, mingle with vintage furniture and chic contemporary styling. Breakfasts are brought to your door, and a chunk of Roman-era wall graces the courtyard.

Hotel Llegendes de Girona Catedral HOTEL€€€

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %972 22 09 05; www.llegendeshotel.com; Carrer Portal de la Barca 4; r €137-329; paW)

Each of the 15 rooms within this restored 18th-century building has been styled according to a different Catalan legend or theme. It’s a pleasing fusion of ancient and modern, with comfortable beds, rain showers and complimentary cava. Some rooms have cathedral views. Book ahead for one of the three decadent, couples-oriented ‘Eros’ suites, boasting buttock-shaped chairs and tantric-sex sofas (with handy instruction manuals).

GIRONAMUSEUS CARD

The excellent Gironamuseus card (www.gironamuseus.cat) covers six Girona museums: the Museu d’Història dels Jueus, Museu d’Art de Girona, Museu d’Història de Girona, Museu d’Arqueologia de Catalunya–Girona, Museu del Cinema and Casa Masó. You pay the full entrance fee at the first museum you visit and then get a 50% discount at the remainder. It’s valid for six months.

5Eating

oLa Fábrica CAFE€

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; http://lafabrica.cc; Carrer de la Llebre 3; dishes €3-8; h9am-3pm; Wv) S

Girona’s culinary talents morph into top-quality coffee and Catalan-inspired brunchy favourites made using local ingredients at this German-Canadian–owned cycle-themed cafe. Pillowy artisan torrades (toasts) – perhaps topped with avocado, feta and peppers – arrive on wooden sliders, washed down with expertly poured brews made with beans sourced from ecoconscious suppliers.

Rocambolesc ICE CREAM€

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %972 41 66 67; www.rocambolesc.com; Carrer de Santa Clara 50; ice cream €2.90-4.50; h11am-10pm Sun-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat)

Savour some of Spain’s most lip-smackingly delicious ice cream at Rocambolesc, part of the world-famous El Celler de Can Roca culinary clan. Candy-striped decor sets the magical scene for creatively cool concoctions like baked-apple ice cream or mandarin sorbet sprinkled with passionfruit flakes.

B12 VEGAN, VEGETARIAN€

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %972 01 32 02; Plaça del Vi 11; 3-course set menu €12.50; h11am-10pm Mon-Wed, 11am-midnight Thu & Fri, closed Sat & Sun; v)

Poised under stone arches, low-key B12 throws organic vegan and vegetarian produce together into light, fresh and totally delicious plant-fuelled cooking. You might find yourself digging into cashew-cream pasta, veggie burgers, spicy falafel or tofu salad. Lunch is a three-course set menu. Evenings are devoted to tapas and the other house speciality – craft beer.

Nu FUSION€€

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %972 22 52 30; www.nurestaurant.cat; Carrer dels Abeuradors 4; mains €14-20; h8.15-10.30pm Mon, 1.15-3.30pm & 8.15-10.30pm Tue-Sat; W)

Sleek and confident, this beautiful, contemporary old-town spot has innovative, top-notch plates prepared in view by a friendly team. Catalan-Asian flavour fusions keep things exciting: sample red-tuna sashimi with soy, beef tenderloin in Iberian-ham sauce, or squid-ink rice with poached egg. Considering the high level of culinary quality, it’s excellent value.

Café Le Bistrot CATALAN, FRENCH€€

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %972 21 88 03; www.lebistrot.cat; Pujada de Sant Domènec 4; mains €7.50-14; hnoon-4pm & 7-11pm)

Walls are draped in jasmine and tables spill out onto stairs climbing to a 17th-century church at what might just be Girona’s most romantically set restaurant. The classic bistro-style menu twins French and Catalan cuisine, with crêpes, pastas, meaty mains, ‘pagès’ pizzas and a rainbow of salads served alongside local cheeses. Inside, it’s all check-print tiles and an old-world feel.

oEl Celler de Can Roca CATALAN€€€

(%972 22 21 57; www.cellercanroca.com; Carrer Can Sunyer 48; degustation menus €180-205; h12.30-2pm Tue, 12.30-2pm & 8-9.30pm Wed-Sat, closed late Dec–mid-Jan & 10 days late Aug)

Ever-changing avant-garde takes on Catalan dishes have catapulted El Celler de Can Roca to global fame. Holding three Michelin stars, it was named the best restaurant in the world in 2015 by The World’s 50 Best. Each year brings new innovations, from molecular gastronomy to multi-sensory food-art interplay to sci-fi dessert trolleys, all with mama’s home cooking as the core inspiration.

Run by the three Girona-born Roca brothers, El Celler is set in a refurbished country house, 2km northwest of central Girona. Book online 11 months in advance or join the standby list.

6Drinking & Nightlife

Espresso Mafia COFFEE

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.espressomafia.cc; Carrer de la Cort Reial 5; h9am-7pm Mon-Thu, to 8pm Fri & Sat, 10am-4pm Sun; W) S

With stripped-back white-on-white decor and (nonsmoking) tables below moody stone arches, Espresso Mafia is your go-to caffeine-shot spot on Girona’s growing coffee scene. From smooth espresso and art-adorned latte to good old café amb llet (coffee with milk), coffee creations here are based on sustainably sourced beans, and best enjoyed with a nice slab of homemade cake.

Ham Session WINE BAR

(%682 189023; http://donjamon.cat; Carrer del Riu Güell 18; h9.30pm-2am Fri & Sat)

Wine, late nights and uncompromisingly good Ibérico ham: together at last. Nocturnal grazers will find heaven at this gourmet-focused wine bar, which pairs fine wines with a seemingly endless buffet of local cheeses and freshly carved ham. Book ahead to assure your spot at seats that are surrounding the wine barrels.

8Information

Oficina de Turisme de Girona (%972 22 65 75; www.girona.cat/turisme; Rambla de la Llibertat 1; h9am-8pm Mon-Fri, 9am-2pm & 4-8pm Sat Apr-Oct, 9am-7pm Mon-Fri, 9am-2pm & 3-7pm Sat Nov-Mar, 9am-2pm Sun year-round) Helpful, multilingual office by the river.

8Getting There & Away

AIR

The Aeroport de Girona–Costa Brava (www.aena.es), a Ryanair hub, is 13km southwest of central Girona.

BUS

TEISA (www.teisa-bus.com) runs from Girona to Besalú (€4.70, 40 minutes to one hour, eight to 16 daily) and Olot (€7.45, one to 1½ hours, eight to 16 daily). Sarfa (www.sarfa.com) serves Cadaqués (€11, 1¾ hours, one to two weekdays, plus weekends in summer) and other coastal destinations. The bus station (%972 21 23 19; Plaça d’Espanya) is next to the train station, 1km southwest of the old town.

CAR & MOTORCYCLE

The experience of parking in Girona is alluded to in the Book of Revelations (probably). Underground car parks are demonically expensive (often €35 a day), while free places are snapped up quickly. There’s some free parking around Carrer Josep Morató i Grau, just south of the historic centre, plus free parking galore off the Carrer de Sant Gregori roundabout near El Celler de Can Roca, a 3km (30-minute) walk northwest of the centre.

TRAIN

Girona is on the train line between Barcelona (€10 to €31, 40 minutes to 1¼ hours, at least half-hourly), Figueres (€4.10 to €6.90, 30 to 40 minutes, at least half-hourly) and Portbou, on the French border (€6.15 to €8.25, one hour, 11 to 15 daily). There are several through trains to France and beyond.

8Getting Around

TO/FROM THE AIRPORT

Sagalés (www.sagales.com) connects the airport to Girona’s bus/train station (€2.75, 25 minutes, hourly) and Barcelona’s Estació del Nord (return €25, 1¼ hours). Other direct bus services run to various Costa Brava destinations, including Tossa de Mar (€12, 55 minutes, two daily).

Taxis (%972 22 23 23) to central Girona cost around €25 during the day and €35 at night.

WORTH A TRIP

SLEEP UNDER THE STARS

Stargazers and lovers will adore Mil Estrelles (%972 59 67 07; www.milestrelles.com; La Bastida, Borgonyà; d €112-236; paW) S, a unique, owner-designed country hideaway, 16km north of Girona. Fabulously combining old stone and modern plastic, it offers three lovably rustic rooms in a noble 18th-century farmhouse, as well as fun, stylish boudoirs (some with bath tubs) in clear plastic bubbles scattered around the garden, perfect for spotting constellations from the comfort of your double bed.

It’s all designed for couples, with eco credentials in mind; there are no bathroom doors and facilities include a floatarium, sauna and hot tub, along with massages. Dinners are available, often delivered to your room.

It’s 1.5km northwest of Pont-Xetmar (which is on the C66) and well signposted.

L’Estartit & the Illes Medes

L’Estartit, an 18km drive southeast of L’Escala and 6km east of Torroella de Montgrí, has a long, wide beach of fine sand and a flashy St Tropez vibe along its palm-lined promenade. But it’s the fantastic diving that pulls travellers to this pretty stretch of Catalonia’s coast. The protected Illes Medes, a spectacular group of rocky islets barely 1km offshore, are home to some of the most abundant marine life in coastal Spain.

1Sights & Activities

Kiosks by the harbour, at the northern end of L’Estartit beach, offer diving classes, snorkelling trips and glass-bottomed boat excursions (€20 for a 90-minute cruise) to the Illes Medes. You can also head out on two-hour kayaking (€15) or SUP (€25) jaunts to the islands. Guided two-hour SUP and kayak excursions cost €30.

L’Estartit gets busy with divers between April and October. If you’re a qualified diver, a two-hour trip usually costs €35 per person, while full gear rental costs €25 a day. If you’re a novice, there are introductory dives for around €65, or full, five-day PADI Open Water Dive courses for around €400. A reliable, long-standing operator is Les Illes (%972 75 12 39; www.hotellesilles.com; Carrer de les Illes 55, L’Estartit; single dive incl equipment from €50; hApr-Oct). Two-hour snorkelling trips cost €30/25 per adult/child.

oIlles Medes DIVE SITE, ISLAND

(%972 75 17 01; www.gencat.cat/parcs/illes_medes; L’Estartit)

The allure of the Illes Medes, seven islets off L’Estartit beach, lies in their range of depths (down to 50m), kaleidoscopic marine life, and underwater cavities and tunnels. Since being gazetted as a reserva natural submarina in 1983, this archipelago has seen marine species thrive, making it Spain’s most popular destination for snorkellers and divers. As of 2010, the islets form part of the protected 80-sq-km Parc Natural del Montgrí, les Illes Medes i el Baix Ter.

4Sleeping

oLes Medes CAMPGROUND€

(%972 75 18 05; www.campinglesmedes.com; Paratge Camp de l’Arbre, L’Estartit; sites €17-34, adult €7.45-9.30, child €4.10-6.30; paWs)

Spread across leafy grounds 2km southwest of L’Estartit and 1km from the seaside, this friendly, year-round operation is one of Catalonia’s best campgrounds. It has a sauna, two pools (one heated), bike rental, laundry facilities, a dive school and even massage service. There are also smart, modern two- to four-person bungalows (double €87 to €96).

Hotel Les Illes HOTEL€€

(%972 75 12 39; www.hotellesilles.com; Carrer de les Illes 55, L’Estartit; incl breakfast s €53-84, d €106-136, tr €159-198; hmid-Mar–mid-Nov; aW)

With its excellent diving centre, this bright, white, family-friendly divers’ hangout just behind the harbour is a top pick if you want to venture beneath the waves. Rooms sleep up to four guests and are functional though unremarkable; some have sea-view balconies.

8Information

Oficina de Turisme de l’Estartit (%972 75 19 10; www.visitestartit.com; Passeig Marítim, L’Estartit; h9am-9pm Jul & Aug, 9.30am-2pm & 4-8pm Jun & Sep, 9am-1pm & 4-7pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm & 4-7pm Sat & Sun May, 9am-1pm & 3-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sun Oct, Mar & Apr, 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat & Sun Nov-Feb) Has lists of L’Estartit’s scuba-diving and other activity outfits.

8Getting There & Away

Ampsa (www.ampsa.org) buses link L’Estartit with Torroella de Montgrí (€1.70, 10 minutes, nine to 19 daily) and Girona (€6, 1¼ hours, six to 12 daily). Sarfa (www.sarfa.com) buses run to Barcelona’s Estació del Nord (€22, 2¼ hours, four daily) and airport (€24, three hours, three to four daily).

L’Escala

POP 9870

At the southern end of the 16km Golf de Roses, sprawling L’Escala is a resort town with a difference. Yes, summer brings sun-worshippers to amble along its seafront, lick ice cream on sandy beaches and clink glasses of wine. But merry L’Escala is also the access point to the magnificent Greco-Roman site Empúries, on the north edge of this bustling town behind a near-virgin beach facing the Mediterranean.

oEmpúries ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE

(%972 77 02 08; www.mac.cat; Carrer Puig i Cadafalch; adult/child €5.50/free; h10am-8pm Jun-Sep, to 6pm Oct–mid-Nov & mid-Feb–May, to 5pm & closed Mon mid-Nov–mid-Feb)

The evocative seaside archaeological site of Empúries, 1.5km northwest of central L’Escala, immerses you in a strategic Greek, and later Roman, trading port. A lively audio guide commentary (included in the price) unravels the history of the Greek town in the lower part of the site, before leading up to the Roman town, with its reconstructed 1st-century-BC forum. The museum exhibits the top finds, including a marble statue of Asclepius, Greek god of medicine, dating to the 2nd century BC.

Traders from Phocaea set up shop here in the 6th century BC at what is now the charming village of Sant Martí d’Empúries, then an island. Soon afterwards they founded a mainland colony, Emporion (Market), which remained an important trading centre and conduit of Greek culture to the Iberians for centuries.

In 218 BC Roman legions clanked ashore to cut off Hannibal’s supply lines in the Second Punic War. Around 195 BC they set up a military camp and by 100 BC had added a town. A century later the Roman town had merged with the Greek one. Later, an early Christian basilica and a cemetery stood on the site of the Greek town, before the whole place disappeared under the sands for a millennium until its excavation in the 20th century.

Points of interest in the Greek ruins include the thick southern defensive walls, the site of the Asklepíeion (shrine to the god of medicine) with a copy of his statue, and the agora (town square), with remnants of the early Christian basilica (4th to 7th centuries AD) and the Greek stoa (market complex) beside it.

The larger Roman town includes palatial Domus 1, source of many of the finest mosaics (displayed April to October only, for conservation purposes), and the newly excavated Roman baths. Outside the walls are the remains of an oval amphitheatre, dating to the 1st century BC.

Hostal Spa Empúries HOTEL€€€

(%972 77 02 07; www.hostalempuries.com; Platja del Portitxol; r €150-300; paW) S

This stylish hotel next to the Greco-Roman ruins fronts a sandy splash of beach. Breezy neutral-toned rooms have mosaic bathrooms inspired by the ruins; some boast sea views. Those in the newer ‘spa’ wing, with rain showers and enormous beds, are particularly comfortable. The two restaurants (mains €17 to €27) specialise in creative Mediterranean and seafood dishes using local produce.

oLa Gruta FUSION€€€

(%972 77 62 11; www.restaurantlagruta.com; Carrer de la Casa Gran 1; 2-/3-course menu from €27/32; h12.30-3pm & 8-10.30pm Mon-Sat, closed Mon lunch Jul-Sep, closed Mon Oct-Dec & Apr-Jun)

A fusion of French and Spanish flavours, spiced with occasional Asian flair, impresses diners at this innovative restaurant overlooking a tiny beach in central L’Escala. Highlights include beef tataki with aubergine caviar, truffled oeuf cocotte (French-style baked egg), and courgette tossed with saffron, mussels and prawns, plus a rainbow of home-cooked desserts.

8Information

Oficina de Turisme (%972 77 06 03; www.visitlescala.com; Plaça de les Escoles 1; h9am-8.30pm Mon-Sat, 9am-1pm Sun Jun-Sep, 9am-1pm & 4-7pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1pm & 4-7pm Sat, 10am-1pm Sun Oct-May) Beside L’Escala’s bus stop.

8Getting There & Away

Sarfa (www.sarfa.com) has daily buses to/from Barcelona’s Estacó del Nord (€22, three hours, three daily), Girona (€6.40, one hour, two to five daily) and Figueres (€4.95, one hour, six daily). Arriving in L’Escala, buses stop on Plaça de les Escoles, outside the tourist office.

Castelló d’Empúries

POP 3840

This handsome town once presided over Empúries, a medieval Catalan county that maintained a large degree of independence up to the 14th century. Modern Castelló d’Empúries retains the imperious aura and historical feel of a former capital, along with remnants of its once-thriving medieval Jewish community. These days its cobbled lanes are trodden less by counts and more by affable locals and the odd tourist.

The town also makes a superb base for outdoors lovers. The nearby Parc Natural dels Aiguamolls de l’Empordà is popular for birdwatching and has a number of easy hikes and biking trails, while wind-blown (but otherwise pretty peaceful) beaches lie just 6km east.

1Sights

Pick up a leaflet from the tourist office (%972 15 62 33; www.castelloempuriabrava.com; Plaça dels Homes; h10am-2pm & 4-8pm Jul & Aug, 10am-2pm & 4-7pm Mon-Sat, 10am-2pm Sun Sep, Oct & Mar-Jun, 10am-4pm Mon-Thu, 10am-2pm & 4-6pm Fri & Sat, 10am-2pm Sun Nov-Feb) for a self-guided tour of Castelló d’Empúries’ Jewish quarter.

Parc Natural dels Aiguamolls de l’Empordà PARK

(%972 45 42 22; www.gencat.cat/parcs/aiguamolls_emporda; GIV6216 Sant Pere Pescador–Castelló d’Empúries Km 4.2; parking motorbike or car €5, van €10; hEl Cortalet information centre 9am-6.30pm Easter-Sep, 9am-4pm Oct-Easter) S

The remnants of the mighty marshes that once covered the whole coastal plain here are preserved in this 47-sq-km natural park, a key site for migrating birds, just south of Castelló d’Empúries. The March to May and August to October migration seasons bring big increases in the numbers of wading birds. Keen twitchers may glimpse flamingos, purple herons, glossy ibis, spoonbills, rare black storks and more of the 329 species that pass through (82 of which nest here).

There are enough birds to make a visit worthwhile at any time of year. The park’s El Cortalet information centre (signposted) is 1km east off the GIV6216 Sant Pere Pescador–Castelló d’Empúries road, halfway between the two towns.

The centre has wildlife information, maps of trails and two on-site lookout points, hires binoculars (€2.50), and is the trailhead for several walking and biking paths.

Basílica de Santa María BASILICA

(Plaça Mossèn Cinto Verdaguer; adult/child €2.50/free; h9am-9pm Jul–mid-Sep, 10am-2pm & 4-6pm mid-Sep–Jun)

This broad church seizes attention with its Romanesque tower, intricately carved portal, and a delicate sculpture on its tympanum (above the main entrance) of the Virgin Mary clasping Jesus while the three Magi look on admiringly. A church was first consecrated here in 1064, but today’s imposing Catalan Gothic structure dates from the 13th to 15th centuries. Within, check out the 15th-century alabaster main altarpiece and a 14th-century baptismal font used to convert Jews to Christianity.

WORTH A TRIP

SANT MARTÍ D’EMPÚRIES

Tiny walled Sant Martí d’Empúries, 1km north of L’Escala’s ruins of Empúries, impresses with its glorious shores, gold-tinged lanes and medieval history. Until 1079 it was the seat of Empúries county before its vulnerability to pirate attacks prompted a power shift. These days it makes a wonderful excursion from L’Escala (4km south) or Castelló d’Empúries, 16km north. Sandy beaches extend just beyond its historical centre. The main square, flanked by a broad 16th-century sandstone church, is packed with more than its fair share of excellent restaurants.

4Sleeping & Eating

Hostal Casa Clara HOSTAL€€

(%972 25 02 15; www.hostalcasaclara.com; Plaça de les Monges; s/d incl breakfast €65/85; hMar-Dec; paW)

Genial service and cosy rooms make this colourful hostal a splendid midrange option in the heart of old-town Castelló d’Empúries. All eight spacious rooms feature natural light, comfortable beds, bottled water and individual colour schemes. There’s a pleasant lounge with books, board games and birdwatching information, and the restaurant serves flavoursome, seasonal Catalan fare (three-course set menu €18 to €25).

Hotel de la Moneda HOTEL€€€

(%972 15 86 02; www.hoteldelamoneda.com; Plaça de la Moneda 8-10; r incl breakfast €99-240; hMar-Nov; paWs)

An enticing couples’ retreat, Hotel de la Moneda inhabits a plush 18th-century mansion full of low-slung medieval archways, intimate old-world atmosphere, and 11 rooms awash in bright primary colours, some with Andalucian-tiled bathrooms sporting hot tubs. There’s a small swimming pool, along with romantic touches like cava on arrival and slippers to pad around the enormous rooms. Leave the kids at home.

Les Voltes CATALAN€€

(%972 25 08 12; www.lesvoltesrestaurant.net; Placa dels Homes 4; tapas €2-6, mains €10-18; h12.30-3.30pm & 7.30-10.30pm Fri-Wed)

As pleasant for a tinto de verano (red wine and soda) as for a full-blown feast of grilled entrecôte, Les Voltes spreads from a cavernous stone-walled interior onto atmospheric, central Placa dels Homes. Service is cheery, tablecloths are white, and the outdoor terrace is casual enough for tapas and entrepans (filled rolls).

8Getting There & Away

Sarfa (www.sarfa.com) runs buses to Figueres (€1.70, 15 minutes, eight to 29 daily), Cadaqués (€4.20, 45 minutes, six to 13 daily) and Barcelona’s Estació del Nord (€21, two hours, one to four daily).

Cadaqués

POP 2700

Cadaqués gleams above the cobalt-blue waters of a rocky bay on Catalonia’s most easterly outcrop. This easygoing whitewashed village owes its allure in part to its windswept pebble beaches, meandering lanes, pretty harbour and the wilds of nearby Cap de Creus, but it’s Salvador Dalí who truly gave Cadaqués its sparkle.

The surrealist artist spent family holidays here during his youth, and lived much of his later life at nearby Port Lligat, where the Dalís’ otherworldly seaside home stands. Thanks to Dalí and other luminaries, such as his friend Federico García Lorca, Cadaqués pulled in a celebrity crowd, and still does.

Summer in Cadaqués is very busy, so advance bookings can make or break a trip. September is often less crowded, while tourist amenities begin to slumber from mid-October. There can also be sea storms at this time of year, bringing autumn breaks to an abrupt and soggy halt.

1Sights & Activities

oCasa Museu Dalí HOUSE, MUSEUM

(%972 25 10 15; www.salvador-dali.org; Port Lligat; adult/child under 8yr €11/free; h9.30am-9pm mid-Jun–mid-Sep, 10.30am-6pm mid-Sep–Jan & mid-Feb–mid-Jun, closed mid-Jan–mid-Feb, closed Mon Nov–mid-Mar)

Overlooking a peaceful cove in Port Lligat, a tiny fishing settlement 1km northeast of Cadaqués, this magnificent seaside complex was the residence and sanctuary of Salvador Dalí, who lived here with his wife Gala from 1930 to 1982. The splendid whitewashed structure is a mishmash of cottages and sunny terraces, linked by narrow labyrinthine corridors and containing an assortment of offbeat furnishings. Access is by semi-guided eight-person tour; it’s essential to book well ahead, by phone or online.

The cottage was originally a mere fisherman’s hut, but was steadily altered and enlarged by the Dalís. Every corner reveals a new and wondrous folly or objet d’art: a bejewelled taxidermied polar bear, stuffed swans (something of an obsession for Dalí) perched on bookshelves, and the echoing, womb-like Oval Room. The artist’s workshop, containing two unfinished original works, is especially interesting. Meanwhile, Dalí’s bedroom still has a suspended mirror, positioned to ensure he was the first person to see the sunrise each morning. The dressing room, decorated by Gala, is covered in photos of the couple with high-profile acquaintances including Picasso, Coco Chanel and even Franco. Post-tour, you’re free to explore the olive-tree-strewn grounds (dotted with giant white eggs) and pale-aqua pool (with its hot-pink lip-shaped bench) independently.

Museu de Cadaqués MUSEUM

(%972 25 88 77; Carrer de Narcís Monturiol 15; happrox Easter-Oct)

Salvador Dalí often features strongly in the temporary exhibitions displayed here, as do his contemporaries also connected to Cadaqués, such as Picasso. Enquire at the tourist office for current opening times.

Beaches

Cadaqués’ main beach and others along the surrounding coast are small and pebbly, but their picturesqueness and beautiful blue waters more than make up for that. Overlooking Platja Llané, south of the town centre, is Dalí’s parents’ holiday home. All the beaches around here experience strong winds.

4Sleeping

oTramuntana Hotel BOUTIQUE HOTEL€€

(%972 25 92 70; www.hotel-tramuntana-cadaques.com; Carrer de la Torre 9; r incl breakfast €125; hMar-Sep; paW)

A traditional whitewashed facade conceals 11 chic, soft-grey-on-white rooms with balconies at this fabulous little boutique bolthole pocketed away in the old town. It’s expertly run and personally designed in minimalist contemporary style by a knowledgeable local couple. Thoughtful touches include a pine-fringed terrace, a luminous lounge, an honesty bar, and lovingly prepared breakfasts featuring the owners’ own olive oil.

Hotel Tarongeta HOTEL€€

(%972 25 82 89; hoteltarongeta@telefonica.net; Paratge Tarongeta; r €90-180; hEaster-Nov; paW)

A gleaming, welcoming two-star hotel with free parking, perfectly positioned for drivers on the northern fringe of town. The corridors feel a tad impersonal, but that’s soon forgotten thanks to smart, modern rooms adorned with floral or nautical themes, bathrooms that sparkle, and, for some, private balconies. Newer suites and ‘romantic’ rooms feature fun touches like four-poster beds.

Hostal Vehí HOSTAL€€

(%972 25 84 70; www.hostalvehi.com; Carrer de l’Església 6; s/d €40/85; hMar-Oct; aW)

In the heart of the old town, this warm family-run guesthouse has carefully designed, impeccably kept rooms with homey touches such as floral duvets, wood furnishings and natural light. Superior doubles are vast, with views over Cadaqués’ coral-coloured rooftops. Cars can’t access this part of town, but it’s the best midrange deal around. Book way ahead for July and August.

L’Horta d’en Rahola BOUTIQUE HOTEL€€€

(%972 25 10 49; www.hortacadaques.com; Carrer Sa Tarongeta 1; r €140-205; hmid-Mar–Nov; paWs)

By the roundabout on the north edge of Cadaqués, this characterful conversion of an 18th-century family-owned farmhouse is adults-only and has a gorgeous fruit-and-vegetable garden and turquoise pool. The nine contemporary rooms, all different, are light and bright with a maritime feel. Personal service is excellent and you’re made to feel very welcome.

DON’T MISS

MONESTIR DE SANT PERE DE RODES

Views of distant Pyrenean peaks and the deep-blue Mediterranean combine with a spectacular piece of Romanesque architecture at Monestir de Sant Pere de Rodes (%972 19 42 38; http://monuments.mhcat.cat/conjunt_monumental_de_sant_pere_de_rodes; GIP6041; adult/child €4.50/free; h10am-7.30pm Tue-Sun Jun-Sep, to 5pm Oct-May), a hillside monastery, 500m up in the hills 7km southwest of El Port de la Selva (which is 13km northwest of Cadaqués). Founded in the 9th century, it became the most powerful monastery in the county of Empúries. The great triple-naved, barrel-vaulted basilica is flanked by the square 12th-century Torre de Sant Miquel bell tower and a two-level cloister dating from the 11th and 20th centuries.

Also here is an info centre for the Cap de Creus natural park. Approaching from El Port de la Selva, stop in the signposted car park, a 10-minute walk from the monastery.

5Eating & Drinking

Mut CATALAN, INTERNATIONAL€

(www.facebook.com/Mutcadaques; Plaça Doctor Pont 12; tapas €5-7, mains €8-12; h9am-late Easter-Sep, weekends only Oct, hours vary; v)

With its cluster of terrace tables gazing out on Port Doguer, fashionable Mut serves an exciting, innovative menu that dances the world, from chorizo in cider to chilli-infused vegetable curry and lentil-duck-and-mango salad. There are also tapas such as hummus and patatas mojo picón (potatoes in spicy sauce). Or just swing by for vermouth and cocktails.

Lua FUSION€€

(%972 15 94 52; www.facebook.com/lua.cdqs; Carrer Santa Maria 1; dishes €8-16; hnoon-4pm & 8pm-midnight May-Sep, closed Wed Oct-Apr, may close Jan-Mar; v)

A yellow door sets the jazzy tone for tasty, creative Mediterranean-Asian ‘soul food’ at this laid-back bar-restaurant with beer-barrel tables and benches on an old-town alley. This spot is perfect for vegetarians; try a Veggie Venus bowl of black rice, hummus and babaganoush, or lighter bites like cheese platters, original ceramic-bowl salads, and pa amb tomàquet (bread with tomato and olive oil).

Compartir FUSION€€€

(%972 25 84 82; www.compartircadaques.com; Riera Sant Vicenç; mains €20-26; h1-3.30pm & 8-10.30pm, closed Mon Jul & Aug, closed Mon & Tue Oct, Nov, Apr & May, closed Mon & Sun Nov-Mar)

Headed up by a trio of elBulli alumni, this terrace restaurant revolves around innovative, gourmet sharing plates (‘compartir’ means ‘to share’), yet retains a (comparatively) laid-back feel. The always-evolving menu fuses traditional Catalan flavours into contemporary delights like Thai-style turbot or marinated sardines with raspberry, beetroot and pistachios. The setting is a 300-year-old house, and bookings are essential.

Es Baluard SEAFOOD€€€

(%972 25 81 83; www.esbaluard-cadaques.net; Carrer de la Riba Nemesi Llorens; mains €17-27; h1-3.30pm & 8.30-11pm Mar-Sep)

There may be roe-deer carpaccio and salt-sprinkled grilled asparagus on the menu, but the family behind Es Baluard clearly worships at the throne of Poseidon. Seafood dishes such as Cadaqués anchovies, spider-crab rice and suquet de peix (local fish stew) fill the menu. There’s also a formidable selection of desserts including syrup-soaked figs and cream-cheese ice cream with orange marmalade.

Bar Boia BAR, CAFE

(http://boianit.com; Passeig de Cadaqués; h8.30am-3am Jun-Sep, 9am-10pm Oct-May; W)

Frequented by arty types and intellectuals since 1946, this sand-side xiringuito (beach bar) has been voguishly reimagined as a fantastic high-profile cocktail bar. Expertly crafted liquid fusions (€9.50 to €12) – plankton-and-sea-fennel G&T, cava-loaded ‘Gala Dalí’ – come courtesy of award-winning, elBulli-trained mixologist Manel Vehí. The cafe/tapas terrace opens early; the Boia Nit coctelería springs to life on summer nights.

8Information

Oficina de Turisme (%972 25 83 15; www.visitcadaques.org; Carrer del Cotxe 2; h9am-9pm Mon-Sat, 10am-1pm & 5-8pm Sun Jul–mid-Sep, 9am-1pm & 3-6pm Mon-Sat, 10am-1pm Sun mid-Sep–Jun, closed Sun Oct-Mar)

8Getting There & Away

Sarfa (www.sarfa.com) buses connect Cadaqués to Barcelona’s Estació del Nord (€25, 2¾ hours, two to five daily) and airport (€27, 3½ hours, one to two daily), plus Figueres (€5.50, one hour, four to seven daily) and Girona (€11, 1¾ hours, one to two weekdays, plus weekends in summer) via Castelló d’Empúries (€4.20, 45 minutes, six to 13 daily).

Cap de Creus

Declared a nature reserve in 1998, Cap de Creus is the easternmost point of the Spanish mainland, and a place of sublime, rugged beauty, battered by the merciless tramuntana wind. With a steep, rocky coastline indented by coves of turquoise water, it’s an especially magical spot to be at dawn or sunset.

The odd-shaped rocks, barren plateaux and deserted shorelines that fill Salvador Dalí’s famous paintings were not just a product of his fertile imagination: this is the landscape that inspired the great surrealist artist.

The cape is reached by a lonely, 8km-long road that winds its way northeast from Cadaqués through the moonscapes, or via a gorgeous 8km hike from Cadaqués (2½ hours).

1Sights & Activities

The Cap de Creus peninsula is much loved for the walking trails along its craggy cliffs; pick up route maps at the information centre or Cadaqués’ tourist office. Itinerari 17, from the Paratge de Tudela car park to Cala Culop (4km return), weaves past the huge Roca Cavallera, which morphed into the subject of Dalí’s painting The Great Masturbator.

Far Cap de Creus LIGHTHOUSE

The lighthouse glinting from the top of the cape dates to 1853.

5Eating

Bar Restaurant Cap de Creus CATALAN, INDIAN€€

(%972 19 90 05; www.facebook.com/pg/restaurante.capdecreus; mains €10-15; h9.30am-8pm Sun-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat Nov-Apr, 9.30am-midnight daily May-Oct, hours vary)

Perched atop the cape, this all-day restaurant caters to exhausted hikers and beach-goers with an unexpected combination of Catalan and Indian food. The latter makes an agreeably aromatic change from Cadaqués’ endless seafood grills; try a fragrant lamb curry or a veggie samosa. Coastal panoramas from the breezy terrace are exquisite and there’s often live music.

8Information

Espai Cap de Creus (http://parcsnaturals.gencat.cat/ca/cap-creus; h10am-2pm & 3-7pm Jul–mid-Sep, 10am-3pm May, Jun & 2nd half Sep) The park’s main information centre, with walking route maps and displays about local fauna and flora, inside the cape’s lighthouse.

Centre d’Informació del Parc Natural (%972 19 31 91; http://parcsnaturals.gencat.cat/ca/cap-creus; Palau de l’Abat, Monestir de Sant Pere de Rodes, GIP6041; h10am-2pm & 3-6pm Jul-Sep, 10am-3pm Oct-Jun) At the Monestir de Sant Pere de Rodes, 30km west of Cap de Creus.

Figueres

POP 45,100

Fourteen kilometres inland from Catalonia’s glistening Golf de Roses lies Figueres, birthplace of Salvador Dalí and now home to the artist’s flamboyant theatre-museum. Although Dalí’s career took him to Madrid, Barcelona, Paris and the USA, Figueres remained close to his heart. In the 1960s and ’70s he created the extraordinary Teatre-Museu Dalí – a monument to surrealism and a legacy that outshines any other Spanish artist, in terms of both popularity and sheer flamboyance. Whatever your feelings about this complex, egocentric man, this museum is worth every euro and minute you can spare.

Beyond its star attraction, busy Figueres is a lively place with a couple of interesting museums, some good restaurants, pleasant shopping streets around Carrer de Peralada, and a grand 18th-century fortress. It’s well worth staying to see the town breathe after Dalí day-trippers board their buses at sundown.

1Sights

oTeatre-Museu Dalí MUSEUM

(www.salvador-dali.org; Plaça de Gala i Salvador Dalí 5; adult/child under 9yr €14/free; h9am-8pm Jul-Sep, 10.30am-6pm Oct-Jun, closed Mon Oct-May, also open 10pm-1am Aug)

The first name that pops into your head when you lay eyes on this red castle-like building, topped with giant eggs and stylised Oscar-like statues and studded with plaster-covered croissants, is Salvador Dalí. An entirely appropriate final resting place for the master of surrealism, it has assured his immortality. Exhibits range from enormous, impossible-to-miss installations – like Taxi Plujós (Rainy Taxi), an early Cadillac surmounted by statues – to the more discreet, including a tiny, mysterious room with a mirrored flamingo.

‘Theatre-museum’ is an apt label for this trip through the incredibly fertile imagination of one of the great showmen of the 20th century. Between 1961 and 1974, Dalí converted Figueres’ former municipal theatre, destroyed by a fire in 1939 at the end of the civil war, into the Teatre-Museu Dalí. It’s full of illusions, tricks and the utterly unexpected, and contains a substantial portion of Dalí’s life’s work, though you won’t find his most famous pieces here (they’re scattered around the world).

Even outside, the building aims to surprise, from its entrance watched over by medieval suits of armour balancing baguettes on their heads, to bizarre sculptures outside the entrance on Plaça de Gala i Salvador Dalí, to the pink walls along Pujada al Castell and Carrer Canigó. The Torre Galatea, added in 1983, is where Dalí spent his final years.

Opening the show is Taxi Plujós; put a coin in the slot and water washes all over the occupant of the car. The Sala de Peixateries (Fishmongers’ Hall) holds a collection of Dalí oils, including the famous Autoretrat Tou amb Tall de Bacon Fregit (Soft Self-Portrait with Fried Bacon) and Retrat de Picasso (Portrait of Picasso). Beneath the former stage of the theatre is the crypt with Dalí’s plain tomb.

After you’ve seen the more notorious pieces, such as climbing the stairs in the famous Mae West Room, see if you can track down a turtle with a gold coin balanced on its back, peepholes into a green-lit room where a mirrored flamingo stands amid fake plants, and Dalí’s heavenly reimagining of the Sistine Chapel in the Palau del Vent (Palace of the Wind Room).

Gala, Dalí’s wife and lifelong muse, is seen throughout – from the Gala Nua Mirant el Mar Mediterrani (Gala Nude Looking at the Mediterranean Sea) on the 2nd level, which also appears to be a portrait of Abraham Lincoln from afar (best seen from outside the Mae West room), to the classic Leda Atòmica (Atomic Leda).

A separate entrance (same ticket and opening times) leads into Dalí Joies, a collection of 37 Dalí-designed, New-York-made jewels dating between 1941 and 1970. Each piece, ranging from the disconcerting Ull del Temps (Eye of Time) to the Elefant de l’Espai (Space Elephant) and the Cor Reial (Royal Heart), is unique.

VISITING THE TEATRE-MUSEU DALÍ

The Teatre-Museu Dalí is Spain’s most-visited museum outside Madrid (over 1.1 million visitors in 2016), so it’s worth double-checking opening hours (it’s closed on Mondays from October to May) and reserving tickets online in advance. In August the museum opens at night from 10pm to 1am (admission €15, bookings essential). Arrive early to avoid long queues.

Castell de Sant Ferran FORT

(www.lesfortalesescatalanes.info; Pujada del Castell; adult/child €3.50/free; h10am-8pm Jul–mid-Sep, 10.30am-6pm mid-Sep–Oct & Apr-Jun, 10.30am-3pm Nov-Mar)

Figueres’ sturdy 18th-century fortress commands the surrounding plains from a low hill 1km northwest of the centre. The complex is a wonder of military engineering: it sprawls over 32 hectares, with the capacity for 6000 men to march within its walls and snooze in military barracks. Admission fees include clanking audio guides (nearly as old as the castle).

Museu de l’Empordà MUSEUM

(www.museuemporda.org; La Rambla 2; adult/child €4/free; h11am-8pm Tue-Sat May-Oct, 11am-7pm Tue-Sat Nov-Apr, 11am-2pm Sun year-round)

Extending over four floors, the local museum time travels from ancient amphorae to 7th-century sculptures to rotating installations of contemporary art. The region’s culture and history are presented in a fragmented way, but it’s an enjoyable journey. The 17th-century religious art is especially worthy of attention. Don’t miss a colour-bursting 1962 Sant Narcís by Dalí.

SALVADOR DALÍ

One of the 20th century’s most recognisable icons, Salvador Dalí (1904–89) could have had the term ‘larger-than-life’ invented for him. He then would probably have decorated it with pink pineapples.

Born in Figueres, Dalí turned his hand to everything from film-making to painting to architecture to literature to jewellery-making. His surrealist trajectory through the often-serious landscape of 20th-century Spain brought him into contact and collaboration with figures such as Pablo Picasso, Luís Buñuel, Federico García Lorca and (controversially) Franco. A raft of foreign celebrities flocked to be seen in his extravagant company.

Self-consciously eccentric and a constant source of memorable soundbites, Dalí was nevertheless in some ways a conservative figure and devout Catholic. A 1929 visit to Cadaqués by French poet Paul Éluard and his Russian wife, Gala, caused an earthquake in Dalí’s life: he ran off to Paris with Gala (who became his lifelong obsession and, later, his wife) and joined the surrealist movement. His long relationship with Gala provided the stable foundation that his whirligig life revolved around.

The celebrity, the extraordinarily prolific output and, let’s face it, the comedy moustache tend to pull focus from the fact that Dalí was an artist of the highest calibre. In his paintings, Dalí’s surrealism is often far more profound than it seems at first glance. The floppy clocks of his most famous work, The Persistence of Memory, are interpreted by some as a reference to the flexibility of time proposed by Einstein. His Christ of St John of the Cross combines expert composition, symbol-laden Renaissance-style imagery and a nostalgic, almost elegiac view of the Catalan coast that he so loved.

Northeastern Catalonia’s so-called Dalí Triangle (which received a staggering 1.4 million visitors in 2016) encompasses the spectacularly out-of-this-world Teatre-Museu Dalí in Figueres, the artist’s eclectic home at Port Lligat’s Casa Museu Dalí near Cadaqués, and the conversely less flamboyant Castell de Púbol, northeast of Girona.

4Sleeping & Eating

Hostel Figueres HOSTEL€

(%630 680575; www.hostelfigueres.com; Carrer dels Tints 22; dm/d €21/42; aW)

Energetic and fresh-faced, this hostel is exactly the backpacker hideaway Figueres needs. The four-, six- and eight-person dorms are modern, airy and spotless, with fans and personal lockers. The three air-conditioned doubles share bathrooms, while the fully-equipped three-bedroom apartment (from €65) suits groups. Staff fizz with recommendations, and the hostel provides a kitchen, terrace, lounge and towel hire (€1).

Hotel Duran HOTEL€€

(%972 50 12 50; www.hotelduran.com; Carrer de Lasauca 5; s/d €80/95; paW)

For absolute immersion in the Dalí legend, stay at this mid-19th-century hotel, where the artist and his wife often made appearances. There’s a fitting blend of old-style elegance with contemporary design, surrealist touches, and photos of Dalí with the former hotel manager, whose descendants now proudly run the place. Rooms are bright, modern and good value. Breakfast costs €10, parking €15.

The glittering restaurant (%972 50 12 50; www.hotelduran.com; Carrer Lasauca 5; mains €16-25; h12.45-4pm & 8.30-11pm), meanwhile, has all the opulence of a royal banquet hall, with smooth service, a tasting menu (€49) and lightly creative Catalan fare.

El Motel CATALAN€€€

(%972 50 05 62; www.hotelemporda.com; Hotel Empordà, Avinguda Salvador Dalí 170; mains €13-30; h12.45-3.45pm & 8.30-10.30pm; pW)

Jaume Subirós, the chef and owner of this smart roadside hotel-restaurant 1km north of Figueres’ centre, is a seminal figure of the transition from traditional Catalan home cooking to the polished, innovative affair it is today. Local, seasonal ingredients star on the menu, which may feature highlights like salted Roses shrimp, ricotta-and-parmesan-stuffed courgette flowers, and rice with Cap de Creus lobster.

There are also appealing, classic rooms for sleeping off the gastronomic indulgence (double €65 to €105, suite €110 to €145).

8Information

Oficina de Turisme Figueres (%972 50 31 55; http://visitfigueres.cat; Plaça de l’Escorxador 2; h9am-8pm Mon-Sat, 10am-3pm Sun Jul-Sep, 9.30am-2pm & 4-6pm Tue-Sat, 10am-2pm Mon & Sun Oct-Jun)

8Getting There & Away

Sarfa (www.sarfa.com) buses serve Cadaqués (€5.50, one hour, four to seven daily) via Castelló d’Empúries (€1.70, 15 minutes, 13 to 25 daily) from Figueres’ bus station (Plaça de l’Estació 7).

Figueres train station, 800m southeast of the centre, has half-hourly trains to/from Girona (€4.10 to €5.45, 30 minutes) and Barcelona (€12 to €16, 1¾ to 2½ hours), plus hourly trains to/from Portbou (€3.40, 30 minutes) on the French border. High-speed trains to Girona, Barcelona and into France depart from Figueres-Vilafant station, 1.5km west of central Figueres.

WORTH A TRIP

CENTRE DE REPRODUCCIÓ DE TORTUGUES DE L’ALBERA

This long-running little wildlife sanctuary (%972 55 22 45; www.tortugues.cat; Garriguella; adult/child €6/4.50; h10am-6pm Jul–mid-Sep, 10am-1pm mid-Mar–Jun & mid-Sep–Oct, closed Nov–mid-Mar) S is a haven for Hermann’s tortoises, and a force for educating people about these threatened little armoured tanks of the Pyrenees. There’s an introductory film (Catalan, Spanish, English, French or German) explaining menaces to the region’s tortoises, but the biggest thrill is a stroll around the boardwalk outside, to peep at the 140 tortoises ambling among rocks and flower beds. The well-signposted sanctuary is just north of Garriguella, a teeny town 13km northeast of Figueres.

Besalú

POP 2400

The delightfully well-preserved medieval town of Besalú looms into sight with its elegant, show-stopping 11th-century Pont Fortificat (Fortified Bridge) spanning the Riu Fluvià, and leading into the coiled maze of cobbled narrow streets that make up its historic core. Following a succession of Roman, Visigothic and Muslim rulers, during the 10th and 11th centuries Besalú was the capital of an independent county that stretched as far west as Cerdanya before it came under Barcelona’s control in 1111. Today Besalú is a favourite day-trip destination from Girona (35km south) and the Olot area (20km west), with a steady stream of visitors roaming the ramparts and exploring its Jewish history.

1Sights & Activities

Guided walking tours of Besalú’s old town are offered by the tourist office and Ars Didàctica (%607 453531; www.arsdidactica.com; Carrer Major 2; 30min/1hr tour €3/4.80; htours daily mid-Jun–mid-Sep, weekends only mid-Sep–mid-Jun).

oPont Fortificat BRIDGE

(Carrer del Pont)

Besalú’s fortified stone bridge is so old, it strains memory. The first records of the bridge date to 1075, though periodic modifications have bolstered its defensive structure. It was bombed in 1939 during the Spanish Civil War and repaired soon after. Today this exquisite pale sandstone bridge, with its two turreted gates and heavy portcullis, is an arresting vantage point for the loveliest views of medieval Besalú.

Jewish Square RUINS

(Baixada de Miqvé; guided tours €2.25-4.80)

Besalú’s thriving Jewish community fled the town in 1436 after relentless Christian persecution. It left behind a 12th-century riverside miqvé (ritual bath), a rare survivor of its kind in Spain, which was rediscovered in 1964. It sits inside a vaulted stone chamber, around which remnants of the 13th-century synagogue were unearthed in 2005. Access to the miqvé is by guided tour with the tourist office or Ars Didàctica, but you can see the square and ruin exterior independently.

Monestir de Sant Pere MONASTERY

(Plaça Prat de Sant Pere; by donation; hhours vary)

This Romanesque monastery dates from the 11th century and has an unusual ambulatory (walkway) with floral-motif capitals behind the altar.

WORTH A TRIP

MUSEU MEMORIAL DE L’EXILI

Anyone familiar with Picasso’s Guernica has an insight into the horror of civilian suffering during the Spanish Civil War. This thought-provoking museum (www.museuexili.cat; Carrer Major 43-47, La Jonquera; adult/child €4/free; h10am-8pm Tue-Sat Jun-Sep, 10am-6pm Tue-Sat Oct-May, 10am-2pm Sun year-round) traces the experiences of Catalonian people exiled and persecuted during this era. It’s aptly located in La Jonquera, 20km north of Figueres, close to the Spain–France border where many Spaniards fled following the Republican defeat in 1939. It explains the build-up to the civil war through photographs, audio guides (Catalan, Spanish, English or French), and haunting art installations.

4Sleeping & Eating

3 Arcs HOTEL€€

(%972 59 16 78; www.hotel3arcs.com; Carrer de Ganganell 15; s/d/tr incl breakfast €81/89/103; aW)

As the name suggests, you’ll know this place by the slender stone archways adjoining a fine, refurbished old-town building. Its 12 simple rooms are compact and modern, management is friendly, and there’s a pleasant downstairs cafe.

Casa Marcial HOTEL€€

(%608 029427; www.casa-marcial.com; Carrer del Comte Tallaferro 15; incl breakfast s €85-90, d €110-139; aWs)

Partly set within a revamped turn-of-the-20th-century mansion, Casa Marcial makes an attractive old-town choice for its cordial service, small pool and 12 smart, uncluttered, contemporary rooms. Some rooms boast balconies and all have plenty of light; the five spacious ‘suites’, including a family-sized option, come with tea/coffee kits. A grassy garden wraps around a 12th-century church to reach the pool.

Amb els 5 Sentits CATALAN€€

(%633 633390; www.facebook.com/ambels5sentitsbesalu; Carrer Abat Zafont 8; degustation menus €15-19; h1-3.30pm Mon-Thu & Sun, 1-3.30pm & 9-10.30pm Fri & Sat)

Seasonal, local ingredients fuel fun, imaginative, elegantly prepared degustation menus at this intimate, stone-walled, bodega-like eatery. Over five or six artful courses (often involving a rice dish), enjoy the likes of duck-and-chickpea paella, L’Escala anchovies, red-tuna tartare with mandarin, or coca (pastry) topped with Mallorcan sausage and Garrotxa cheese. Bookings recommended.

Pont Vell CATALAN€€

(%972 59 10 27; www.restaurantpontvell.com; Carrer Pont Vell 24; mains €15-24; h1-3.30pm Mon, 1-3.30pm & 8.30-10.30pm Wed-Sun Jul & Aug, 1-3.30pm Mon & Sun, 1-3.30pm & 8.30-10.30pm Wed-Sat Sep-Jun, closed late Dec-late Jan)

The views to the old bridge (after which the restaurant is named) are enough to tempt you into this converted 18th-century building, even without considering the superb wide-ranging menu full of locally sourced delights, such as home-made terrines, Girona entrecôte in Cabrales-cheese sauce, and mushroom-stuffed squid in its own ink.

8Information

Oficina de Turisme (%972 59 12 40; www.besalu.cat; Carrer del Pont 1; h10am-2pm & 4-7pm) On the eastern side of the bridge, across from the centre; runs 30-minute to one-hour walking tours (€2.25 to €4.60).

8Getting There & Away

Teisa (www.teisa-bus.com) buses serve Barcelona (€15, two hours, four daily), Olot (€3.90, 40 minutes, 12 to 25 daily), Figueres (€4, 30 minutes, three daily) and Girona (€4.70, 40 minutes to one hour, eight to 16 daily).

THE CATALAN PYRENEES

Catalonia’s Pyrenees are much more than an all-season adventure playground, and, beyond the major resorts, conceal a raw natural beauty that invites discovery. Certainly, the Val d’Aran draws winter skiers and snowboarders (with resorts ranging from red-carpet to family-focused), while summer and autumn lure hikers to the jewel-like lakes and valleys of the Parc Nacional d’Aigüestortes i Estany de Sant Maurici, the low-lying countryside of Cerdanya, and the climbing terrain of the Serra del Cadí.

But there’s also Catalan heritage to be uncovered amid the majestic scenery, plunging valleys and snow-dusted peaks. Thousand-year-old monasteries slumber in these mountains – including some of Spain’s outstanding Romanesque architecture – meaning Pyrenean hikes are as likely to pass ruined churches as valley panoramas.

Meanwhile, taste buds yearning for more than hiking fodder will find full satisfaction in the rich volcanic gastronomy of Olot and the Parc Natural de la Zona Volcànica de la Garrotxa.

Olot

POP 24,580 / ELEV 443M

If you perceive a rumbling sensation during your travels in Olot, it might be more than your appetite lusting after the rich local cuina volcànica. This bustling town is the regional capital of La Garrotxa, a lush landscape of cone-shaped hills chiselled by more extreme geological activity up to 700,000 years ago, now protected as Catalonia’s Parc Natural de la Zona Volcànica de la Garrotxa. The park completely surrounds Olot, making the town an excellent base for volcanic explorations.

Olot sprawls over a large area with broad, tree-lined boulevards, but the medieval centre is agreeably walkable, with a handful of museums, grand Modernista buildings, exceptional restaurants and a lively Monday market, and well worth a stop in its own right.

1Sights & Activities

Pick up a self-guided walking-tour leaflet of Olot’s Modernista architecture (which includes Lluís Domènech i Montaner’s 1916 floral-patterned Casa Solà Morales) at the tourist office.

Four hills of volcanic origin stand sentry on the fringes of Olot. You can follow a 2km (45-minute) trail up the Volcà del Montsacopa, north of the centre.

Museu dels Volcans MUSEUM

(https://museus.olot.cat; Parc Nou, Avinguda de Santa Coloma; adult/child €3/1.50; h10am-2pm & 3-6pm Tue-Sat, 10am-2pm Sun)

In the middle of verdant Parc Nou (a botanical garden of Olot-area flora), this schoolroom-like museum has detailed displays on volcanoes, tremors, types of eruptions, Catalonia’s volcanic history and La Garrotxa’s geology. The intriguing audiovisual includes a knee-trembling earthquake simulator. There’s a scenic cafe attached.

OUT & ABOUT IN CATALONIA’S PYRENEES

The Catalan Pyrenees provide magnificent walking. You can undertake strolls of a few hours, or embark on day walks that can be strung together into treks of several days. Nearly all can be done without camping gear, with nights spent in delightful villages or refugis (no-frills mountain shelters).

Most of the refugis are run by two mountain clubs, the Federació d’Entitats Excursionistes de Catalunya (FEEC; www.feec.cat) and the Centre Excursionista de Catalunya (CEC; www.cec.cat), which also provide info on trails. A night in a refugi costs €18 to €20 with breakfast. Moderately priced meals (around €15 to €20) are sometimes available in high season. It’s worth booking ahead online or by phone to ensure your place (in summer, refugis fill up fast, and, in shoulder season, many are closed). La Central de Refugis is the handy booking portal.

The coast-to-coast GR11 long-distance trail traverses the entire Pyrenees from Cap de Creus on the Costa Brava to Hondarribia on the Bay of Biscay. Other hiking highlights include hardy trails between glittering high-altitude lakes in the Parc Nacional d’Aigüestortes i Estany de Sant Maurici and gentle rambles across the lush volcanic landscapes of the Parc Natural de la Zona Volcànica de la Garrotxa.

The season for walking in the high Pyrenees is late June to early October, with quieter September providing the best all-round conditions. Always be prepared for fast-changing weather, no matter when you’re visiting.

Local advice from tourist offices, park rangers, mountain refugis and other walkers is invaluable. Dedicated hiking maps are essential; Editorial Alpina (www.editorialalpina.com) produces some of the best.

There’s boundless scope for climbing; Pedraforca in the Serra del Cadí offers some of the most exciting ascents. The ever-growing selection of other Pyrenees adventure activities includes whitewater rafting, kayaking, canyoning, vie ferrate, biking and more, for all of which the Pallars Sobirà region and the Val d’Aran are favourites. Skiing, of course, is the other speciality, with the richest pickings on the Val d’Aran’s Baqueira-Beret-Bonaigua slopes.

4Sleeping & Eating

Alberg Torre Malagrida HOSTEL€

(%972 26 42 00; www.xanascat.cat; Passeig de Barcelona 15; dm under/over 30yr €13/15; W)

With tile-floored corridors and stone lions guarding the entrance to a marble-columned early-20th-century Modernista building, surrounded by gardens, it’s hard to believe that this is a youth hostel (HI). The unadorned, locker-equipped dorms – for two, three, six, eight or 10 – are comfortable without living up to the grandeur of the exterior. Meals and bike hire available.

Can Blanc CASA RURAL€€

(%972 27 60 20; www.canblanc.es; Paratges de la Deu; s/d incl breakfast €67/110; paWs)

Surrounded by leafy parkland on the southeastern edge of Olot, this secluded dusty-pink country house is a charm. Colourful, simple, modern-rustic rooms come in a range of shapes and sizes. The gardens and small pool will put a smile on your face, and a great breakfast is thrown in.

La Deu CATALAN€€

(%972 26 10 04; www.ladeu.es; Carretera La Deu; mains €10-23; h1-4pm & 8.30-10.30pm Mon-Sat, 1-4pm Sun; p)

Down a tree-lined road with a volcanic stone fountain bubbling away in its terrace dining area, family-run La Deu has been perfecting its filling cuina volcànica since 1885. Service is charmingly efficient, and there’s huge culinary variety, including slow-cooked lamb, pork with sweet chestnuts, oven-baked hake, asparagus ‘cake’ lashed with basil oil, and the house spin on classic patates d’Olot.

oLes Cols CATALAN€€€

(%972 26 92 09; www.lescols.com; Carretera de la Canya; degustation menu €95, incl wine €150; h1-3.30pm & 8.30-10.30pm Wed-Sat, 1-3.30pm Sun)

Set in a converted 19th-century masia (country house), 2km northeast of central Olot, Les Cols is the queen of La Garrotxa’s fabulous restaurants. The interior has an avant-garde edge, with glass walls and glittery-gold decor. Two-Michelin-starred chef Fina Puigdevall’s dishes are powered by local products and prepared with a silken touch, from Olot sausage and pork ribs to charcoal-tempura beans.

LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

VOLCANIC CUISINE

In Olot and around, since 1994, a dedicated group of chefs has been proudly carrying on the cuina volcànica tradition, which stems from the area’s exceptionally fertile volcanic soil. Traditional ingredients include black radishes, wild mushrooms, Santa Pau beans, Montserrat tomatoes, ratafia (liquor with aromatic herbs, sometimes flavoured with walnut) and piumoc (dry pork sausage), though some of the final creations are deliciously contemporary. Find out more at www.cuinavolcanica.cat.

8Information

Casal dels Volcans (%972 26 60 12; http://parcsnaturals.gencat.cat/ca/garrotxa; Parc Nou, Avinguda de Santa Coloma; h10am-2pm Tue-Sun) Official advice about the Parc Natural de la Zona Volcànica de la Garrotxa.

Oficina de Turisme d’Olot (%972 26 01 41; www.turismeolot.cat; Carrer Doctor Fàbregas 6; h10am-2pm & 3-7pm Mon-Sat, 10am-2pm Sun) Slick, modern info office with multilingual staff, maps and park walking details.

8Getting There & Away

TEISA (www.teisa-bus.com) runs buses between Olot’s bus station (Carrer de Tomàs de Lorenzana) and Girona (€7.25 to €8.50, one to 1½ hours, eight to 30 daily), some via Besalú (€3.90, 40 minutes, 12 to 25 daily), and to/from Barcelona (€16 to €19, 1½ to 2½ hours, nine to 11 daily).

Catalonia

Catalonia

Why Go?

When to Go

Best Places to Stay

Best Places to Eat

Catalonia Highlights

COSTA BRAVA

Tossa de Mar

Palafrugell & Around

Palafrugell

Calella de Palafrugell

THE CAMÍ DE RONDA

CATALONIA & SPAIN

Llafranc

Tamariu

Begur & Around

DON’T MISS

TREASURED BEACHES AROUND BEGUR

WHAT’S COOKING IN CATALONIA?

Pals

DON’T MISS

DALÍ’S CASTELL DE PÚBOL

Peratallada

Girona

GIRONA’S JEWS

GIRONAMUSEUS CARD

WORTH A TRIP

SLEEP UNDER THE STARS

L’Estartit & the Illes Medes

L’Escala

Castelló d’Empúries

WORTH A TRIP

SANT MARTÍ D’EMPÚRIES

Cadaqués

DON’T MISS

MONESTIR DE SANT PERE DE RODES

Cap de Creus

Figueres

VISITING THE TEATRE-MUSEU DALÍ

SALVADOR DALÍ

WORTH A TRIP

CENTRE DE REPRODUCCIÓ DE TORTUGUES DE L’ALBERA

Besalú

WORTH A TRIP

MUSEU MEMORIAL DE L’EXILI

THE CATALAN PYRENEES

Olot

OUT & ABOUT IN CATALONIA’S PYRENEES

LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

VOLCANIC CUISINE