SAUCES,
CONDIMENTS,
AND
VINAIGRETTES
Vinegar is the key ingredient that makes all condiments tick. Its importance as a preservative is paramount: not only does lowering the pH give us the tang we want in things like ketchup and mustard, but it also allows them to keep without refrigeration. When I was twelve, my father yelled from the kitchen for all of us to come see what he had discovered on the bottle of ketchup: the label said it did not need to be refrigerated. Space in the fridge was made available, and the Heinz bottle took up residence on the counter forever after.
MASTER VINAIGRETTE
MAKES ABOUT 1 PINT
Making a quick vinaigrette seems like a breeze, but sometimes you get the ratio off, and it just doesn’t work out. Memorize the basic vinegar-to-oil ratio of 1:3 (some of these recipes stray a bit from that, but you can always tune your vinaigrette to your tastes) and you’ll be able to whip up a perfect dressing for more than just salad—potatoes, roasted vegetables, chicken, tofu, and more. Variations abound: add mustard, miso, or roasted garlic to help emulsify the oil, and while fresh herbs are always best, dry herbs are fine. Don’t forget the salt and maybe a little sweetener if it needs it; maple syrup and honey are both good options, though plain sugar works, too. See how versatile a good vinaigrette can be?
½ cup homemade wine vinegar of your choice (this page), or store-bought
3 tablespoons minced shallot
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
1 teaspoon kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper to taste
1¼ cups extra-virgin olive oil (see Tip)
While you can place everything except the oil in a nonreactive bowl, and then slowly whisk in the oil to emulsify it, I like to add everything to a clean pint-sized mason jar with a tight-fitting lid. Seal the jar and shake like hell. The vinaigrette will keep in a tightly sealed container in the refrigerator for up to 1 month.
TIP
I prefer olive oil, but you can use any high-quality cold-pressed oil, including grapeseed or sunflower.
SMOKY GARLIC VINAIGRETTE
This vinaigrette is delicious on baked fish, especially pollack or cod.
½ cup homemade apple cider vinegar, or store-bought
3 tablespoons mashed roasted garlic
1 teaspoon liquid smoke (optional)
1 teaspoon kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper to taste
1½ cups extra-virgin olive oil
CURRY VINAIGRETTE
I mix this incredibly versatile vinaigrette into chicken salad or pour it over grated carrot and parsnip slaw with raisins.
½ cup homemade apple cider vinegar, or store-bought
3 tablespoons minced shallot
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
1 teaspoon curry powder
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1¼ cups extra-virgin olive oil
DASHI-SESAME VINAIGRETTE
Pour this sauce over cold ramen noodles for a quick dinner. This tastes great using white wine vinegar or rice vinegar, if you don’t make the dashi one.
½ cup Dashi Vinegar, or store-bought
2 tablespoons minced scallions (white and green parts)
1 teaspoon toasted sesame oil
1 tablespoon tahini
1 teaspoon kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper to taste
1 cup extra-virgin olive oil
SPICY VINAIGRETTE
This is a great quick marinade for chopped cucumbers.
½ cup homemade white wine vinegar, or store-bought
1 teaspoon Tabasco sauce
1 tablespoon good-quality maple syrup
1 teaspoon kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper to taste
1 cup extra-virgin olive oil
MISO-GINGER VINAIGRETTE
Pour over roasted cauliflower or dress salmon with this before roasting it in the oven.
½ cup homemade rice (sake) vinegar, or store-bought
2 tablespoons white miso
1 tablespoon grated fresh ginger
1 teaspoon kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper to taste
1½ cups extra-virgin olive oil
HERB VINAIGRETTE
This is an awesome all-purpose marinade for meats, and goes just as well on rice or quinoa. Simply grind all dry ingredients in a mortar and pestle before combining with the vinegar and oil. Season to taste with the black pepper.
1 teaspoon dried oregano
1 teaspoon dried rosemary
1 teaspoon dried thyme
1 teaspoon toasted cumin seed
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1 garlic clove
½ cup homemade cider or white wine vinegar (this page), or store-bought
1¼ cups extra-virgin olive oil
Freshly ground black pepper to taste
SHERRY CAESAR VINAIGRETTE
Although lemon is a traditional ingredient in Caesar salad, at 7 percent acid, sherry vinegar makes a strong stand-in. You’ll need to use a mortar and pestle to mash the anchovies, garlic, and salt.
6 anchovy fillets, drained
2 garlic cloves, minced
½ teaspoon kosher salt
2 egg yolks
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
¼ cup store-bought sherry vinegar
½ cup extra-virgin olive oil
¼ cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
Freshly ground black pepper to taste
YOGURT-PARSLEY VINAIGRETTE
Pour this over roasted sweet potatoes or a spinach salad.
½ cup homemade white wine vinegar, or store-bought
¼ cup finely minced fresh parsley
⅓ cup full-fat yogurt
1 teaspoon honey
½ teaspoon mustard powder, such as Coleman’s
1 garlic clove, minced into a paste
½ teaspoon kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper to taste
1¼ cups extra-virgin olive oil
SPICY KETCHUP WITH SHICHIMI TOGARASHI
MAKES ABOUT 1 QUART
To me, there is nothing—and I mean nothing—that compares with Heinz ketchup, but this great condiment will stand up to spicy hot dogs, burgers, or those homemade fries you’re determined to make even though you know the oil will turn your whole kitchen into a slick mess for days. The seasoning this recipe calls for is a Japanese blend. You can easily split this recipe in half.
8 pounds ripe tomatoes, coarsely chopped
1 large onion, finely chopped
2 cups homemade apple cider vinegar, or store-bought
3 tablespoons kosher salt
2 tablespoons granulated sugar
1 teaspoon shichimi togarashi (see Tip)
½ teaspoon ground fenugreek
1 tablespoon dark brown sugar
- In a medium nonreactive stockpot, combine the tomatoes and onion and bring to a simmer over medium heat. Cook until the tomatoes and onions are soft, about 40 minutes.
- Using a potato masher or wooden spoon, mash the tomatoes and onions in the pan, then strain them through a sieve or food mill to remove the tomato skins, seeds, and any other solids, pressing as much of the puree through as possible. You should have about 4 quarts of puree, depending on how juicy your tomatoes are.
- Return the puree to the stockpot and add the vinegar, salt, granulated sugar, and shichimi togarashi. Bring to a simmer and cook, stirring every 15 minutes or so to prevent scorching, for about 2 hours or more, until the sauce is the consistency of ketchup.
- Remove the stockpot from the heat and stir in the fenugreek and brown sugar. Pack the ketchup into a clean quart-sized mason jar and screw on a lid and ring. Store the ketchup in the fridge for up to 3 months.
TIP
Look for shichimi togarashi online or at Asian groceries.
REAL MUSTARD
MAKES ABOUT 1½ CUPS
Making your own mustard can take many forms: you can start from whole or ground seed, but make sure you use vinegar. I like to use whole seed, or you can blend the mustard for smoothness for better spreading. Interestingly enough, you can adjust the fieriness of your mustard by adjusting the temperature of the brine. It’s an inverse proportion: cool the brine first for spicier mustard, or use hot brine for a milder flavor. This recipe halves well if you don’t want to make so much.
½ cup homemade malt (beer) vinegar, or store-bought
½ cup brown ale or dark medium-bodied beer
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1 tablespoon light brown sugar
½ cup mustard seed (yellow, brown, or a mix)
- In a small nonreactive saucepan, bring the vinegar, beer, salt, and sugar to a boil over medium-high heat. Remove from the heat and stir in the mustard seed (let the brine cool first for a hotter, spicier mustard). Pour the mixture into a clean pint-sized mason jar.
- Allow the mustard to cool to room temperature, seal the jar, and then refrigerate for 2 to 3 days. Use as is, or blend in a mortar and pestle, food processor, or blender to your desired consistency. The mustard will keep in a tightly sealed container in the refrigerator for up to 3 months.
MUSTARD CAVIAR
MAKES ABOUT 1 CUP
I love mustard. It’s a condiment that goes with just about everything and hits all the right buttons of zest and brightness with the addition of vinegar. I remember eating spicy mustard on steak in Provence when I was an exchange student, and now I can’t have steak without good-quality mustard. This crunchy condiment pops in the mouth like caviar, hence its name. Serve it on rustic bread with ham and cheese, and use it in martinis, too.
½ cup homemade white wine vinegar, or store-bought
2 garlic cloves, coarsely chopped
1 (2-inch) thyme sprig
1 bay leaf
20 whole black peppercorns
½ cup yellow mustard seed (see Tip)
3 tablespoons bourbon or rum
1 tablespoon good-quality maple syrup or honey
½ teaspoon kosher salt
- Combine the vinegar, 1 tablespoon of water, the garlic, thyme, bay leaf, and peppercorns in a small nonreactive saucepan and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Remove the pan from the heat and set aside to cool and infuse the flavors.
- Combine the mustard seed and bourbon in a small nonreactive bowl. Strain the vinegar mixture into the bowl, cover, and let stand at room temperature overnight.
- Stir in the maple syrup and transfer the mustard to a clean 8-ounce mason jar with a tight-fitting lid. Seal the jar and let it stand at room temperature about 24 hours before enjoying. The mustard will keep in a tightly sealed container in the refrigerator for up to 3 months.
TIP
You can use half brown and half yellow mustard seed if you wish.
DASHI MAYONNAISE
MAKES ABOUT 1 CUP
Dashi is the master stock of Japan. At its simplest, it includes kombu (dried kelp) and katsuobushi (shaved dried bonito) steeped in almost boiling water. This recipe calls for a dashi-infused vinegar to yield a mayonnaise that is guaranteed to make everything taste better. It keeps fresh in the fridge for up to 1 week, but I doubt it will last that long.
1 egg yolk
½ teaspoon kosher salt
1 teaspoon mirin
2 tablespoons Dashi Vinegar, or store-bought
1 cup vegetable oil
- In a medium nonreactive bowl, whisk together the egg yolk, salt, and mirin. Stir in half of the dashi vinegar.
- Whisking constantly, begin adding the oil a few drops at a time. Once the mixture starts to come together, add more oil in a thin stream until you’ve incorporated half of the oil.
- Stir in the rest of the vinegar and continue whisking while adding the rest of the oil until fully emulsified. Pour the mixture into a clean pint–sized mason jar with a tight-fitting lid. Seal the jar and let the mayonnaise stand at room temperature for 1 to 2 hours before serving (the vinegar will kill any harmful bacteria in the yolk at room temperature). The mayonnaise will keep in a tightly sealed container in the refrigerator for up to 1 month.
BBQ SAUCE
MAKES ABOUT 2 CUPS
Barbecue, BBQ, or ’cue means something different depending on where you’re from, what you style grew up with, and how you like your meat. I don’t come from any of the grand Southern traditions, but I do know that I like this sauce. It’s delicious on just about anything, and I always keep some on hand in the summer. Throw some chicken on the grill next to a few ears of corn and finish the chicken with this sauce (just at the end; otherwise it will scorch). A perfect summer meal doesn’t get easier than this.
2 cups ketchup
1 cup homemade apple cider vinegar, or store-bought
½ cup molasses
¼ cup packed dark brown sugar
1 tablespoon freshly ground black pepper
½ tablespoon kosher salt
¼ cup finely minced onion
1 tablespoon mustard powder, such as Colman’s
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce
- In a large nonreactive saucepan, combine the ketchup, vinegar, molasses, brown sugar, pepper, salt, onion, mustard powder, lemon juice, and Worcestershire, and bring to a simmer over low heat.
- Cook the sauce for 90 minutes, stirring occasionally and maintaining a low temperature so the bottom does not scorch.
- Remove the pan from the heat and let the sauce cool to room temperature. Pack the sauce into a clean mason jar. The sauce will keep in a tightly sealed container in the refrigerator for up to 2 months.
GROUND CHERRY CHUTNEY
MAKES ABOUT 1 PINT
Ground cherries (also called cape gooseberries) are sweet little fruits that grow wrapped in papery husks like their relative the tomatillo. Sweet, tart, and rich—and about the size of large blueberries—these make a great chutney, standing up well to cinnamon and cardamom. Spread this chutney on a grilled cheese made with sharp cheddar on sourdough, and serve the sandwich with your favorite tomato soup for a new take on the comfort-food combo that’s perfect for a rainy day.
2 pounds husked and rinsed ground cherries
1½ cups sugar
1 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more to taste
½ cup red wine
1 cup homemade red wine vinegar, or store-bought
1 cup minced red onion
1 cup black seedless raisins
¼ cup shredded fresh ginger or 1 teaspoon ground
1 tablespoon coriander seed
2 green cardamom pods
1 tablespoon yellow mustard seed
1 whole clove
1 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes (optional)
½ teaspoon ground cinnamon
- In a medium nonreactive saucepan, combine the ground cherries, sugar, salt, wine, vinegar, onion, raisins, and ginger; bring to a simmer over medium heat, stirring frequently.
- Meanwhile, in a small skillet, toast the coriander, cardamom, mustard, clove, and pepper flakes, if using, over low heat until fragrant. Remove the cardamom pods and set them aside.
- Using a mortar and pestle, grind the spices with the cinnamon and a pinch of salt. Add the spices and the cardamom pods to the simmering ground cherries.
- Cook the chutney over medium low stirring frequently until it is the consistency of thick jam, 30 to 45 minutes. Discard the cardamom pods and serve, or store in a clean pint-sized mason jar with a tight-fitting lid. Follow the steps on this page for water-bath canning to make it shelf stable, processing for 10 minutes. The chutney will keep in a tightly sealed container in the refrigerator for up to 3 months.
SHISO MIGNONETTE
MAKES ABOUT 1 CUP
I learned how to open oysters when I was about eleven. They were a regular treat in our house, and I was more than happy to help prep them, because that meant I could eat as many as I wanted while shucking. I’ve always eschewed cocktail sauce on oysters—there is absolutely no reason for slathering it on such a nuanced food. For oysters, you need something more refined and less sugary; when a squeeze of lemon juice won’t cut it, try this twist on mignonette. This also works well on grilled squid if raw oysters aren’t your thing.
⅔ cup Shiso Vinegar, or store-bought
2 tablespoons mirin
1 shallot, minced
1 tablespoon coarsely ground black pepper
1 teaspoon kosher salt
2 tablespoons minced fresh green shiso leaves
In a small nonreactive bowl, mix together the vinegar, mirin, shallot, pepper, salt, and shiso. Serve immediately or store it in a tightly sealed container in the refrigerator for up to 1 month.
ROASTED HOT SAUCE
MAKES ABOUT 1 QUART
Hot sauce has so many variations that it can make your head spin. This recipe uses roasted tomatoes for a richness of flavor to complement the heat of the peppers. You can sub in whatever chiles you have on hand; a mix of jalapeño, Scotch bonnet, and Fresno is my favorite combo. You can vary the heat based on the amount of seeds you leave in the sauce. This is a good recipe to make on that side burner of your outdoor grill, if you have one, so you don’t fill your house with pepper fumes.
12 hot chiles (the more variety, the better)
4 large ripe tomatoes, stems and hard cores removed
2 cups homemade white wine vinegar or apple cider vinegar, or store-bought
½ cup sugar
1 tablespoon grated fresh ginger
1 tablespoon smoked paprika
1 tablespoon kosher salt
1 bay leaf
2 black cardamom pods
½ tablespoon coriander seed
1 teaspoon whole black peppercorns
- Preheat the oven to 450°F.
- Place the chiles and tomatoes on a sheet pan and roast until blistered, about 12 minutes. Remove from the oven and let cool.
- Wearing rubber gloves (see Tips), rub off the skin of the chiles, halve them, and remove as many seeds as you can.
- In a large nonreactive saucepan, combine the chiles, tomatoes, vinegar, sugar, ginger, paprika, and salt. Make a cheesecloth sachet of the bay leaf, cardamom, coriander, and peppercorns, and add it to the saucepan. Bring the mixture to a simmer over low heat and cook for 30 minutes (see Tips).
- Remove and discard the sachet and, using an immersion blender, blend the hot sauce until smooth; alternatively, you can slowly pour the sauce into a food processor or blender and process until smooth (be careful when blending hot liquids). Pour the hot sauce into a clean quart-sized mason jar with a tight-fitting lid or smaller narrow mouth glass bottles for serving. You can pack into half-pint mason jars and follow the steps on this page for water-bath canning to make it shelf stable, processing for 10 minutes. The hot sauce will keep tightly sealed in the refrigerator for up to 6 months (or until you move out).
TIPS
I recommend wearing gloves while making this recipe. Also be careful not to stick your face over the pan when the sauce is cooking—a nose full of capsaicin won’t do you any favors. You may even want to wear goggles.
QUICK GRILL SAUCE
MAKES ABOUT ½ CUP
This recipe comes together quickly for a sweet sauce you can brush on chicken or pork while finishing the meat on the grill.
2 tablespoons Real Mustard, or store-bought
4 tablespoons honey
2 tablespoons melted butter
2 tablespoons homemade malt (beer) vinegar, or store bought
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
In a small nonreactive bowl, whisk together the mustard, honey, butter, and vinegar, and season to taste with salt and pepper. Use immediately.