In the Caribbean, you are far more likely to be eating a bammy than a tortilla. The traditional bammies – a flatbread made from cassava – do resemble tortillas and so, when sampling one on the islands, I thought they’d go so well with my Coffee Chilli Beef. Tortillas are easier to find over here, but – by all means – if you can find and want to use bammies, please do!
SERVES 4
For the Coffee Chilli Beef
1 tbsp vegetable oil
1 onion, finely chopped
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
2 red chillies, de-seeded and finely chopped
500g minced beef
1 tsp Chinese five-spice powder
1 x 400g tin kidney beans, drained
1 x 400g tin chopped tomatoes
150ml freshly made strong black coffee
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
To serve
4 large or 8 small tortilla wraps (or bammies, if you can find them)
shredded lettuce
soured cream
paprika, for sprinkling
Heat the oil in a large saucepan over a medium heat, add the onion, garlic and chillies and cook, stirring, for 3–4 minutes until beginning to soften. Add the minced beef and Chinese five-spice and cook for a further 3–4 minutes, stirring, until the meat begins to brown.
Add the kidney beans, tomatoes and coffee, bring to the boil and simmer for 20 minutes until the mixture is thick and fairly dark in colour. Season to taste.
To serve, sprinkle shredded lettuce over the wraps, then divide the chilli beef mixture between them. Top with a spoonful of soured cream and a sprinkling of paprika, then fold up the wraps to enclose the filling. A glass of chilled beer (maybe a Red Stripe!) is always a winner with these wraps.
COFFEE CHILLI BEEF WRAPS
CURRIED GOAT WITH RICE ’N’ PEAS
Oh, I love this dish! My mum would cook Rice ’n’ Peas most Sundays, but Curried Goat was usually saved for special occasions. It’s a traditional Jamaican dish with a rich blend of spices and it really packs a punch! You can use beef or lamb if you can’t find goat.
SERVES 4
1kg goat shoulder (or mutton), diced
2 tbsp good-quality mild curry powder
1 tbsp ground pimento seeds
2 tsp garam masala
¼ tsp ground cloves
½ tsp ground turmeric
½ tsp ground cinnamon
3 thyme sprigs
3 tbsp olive oil
1 large white onion, finely diced
3 garlic cloves, crushed
50g fresh root ginger, finely grated
2 Scotch bonnet chillies, finely chopped
1 x 400g tin chopped tomatoes
1 litre beef stock
a pinch each of sea salt and black pepper
a handful of fresh coriander, chopped
For the Rice ’n’ Peas
1 tbsp sunflower oil
25g butter
1 onion, finely diced
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
450g long-grain rice
2 thyme sprigs
1 x 400g tin red kidney beans
125g creamed coconut, coarsely grated
1 litre hot water
1 Scotch bonnet chilli, whole
a pinch of sea salt
Marinate the meat the night before. Toss together the diced goat, curry powder, spices and thyme sprigs in a large bowl, ensuring the meat is well coated with the spices. Cover and chill in the fridge overnight.
Preheat the oven to 180°C/160°C fan/gas 4.
Heat the oil in a large heavy-based ovenproof saucepan with a lid over a medium heat. Add the marinated goat and brown all over (this can be done in batches, if needed). Make sure the pan isn’t too hot or the spices will burn. Once browned, remove from the pan and set aside.
Add the onion to the same pan and cook for 5–6 minutes until softened, then add the garlic, ginger and chillies and cook for a further 2–3 minutes. Return the meat to the pan, add the chopped tomatoes and beef stock, stir well and bring to a simmer. Season with salt and pepper.
Cover the pan with a lid and transfer to the oven to cook for 2 hours or until the goat is tender.
Meanwhile, make the rice ’n’ peas. Place a large heavy-based saucepan over a medium heat and add the oil and butter. Once the butter starts to bubble, add the onion and garlic and cook for 2 minutes, until soft but not coloured. Stir in the rice and thyme until everything is well coated in the oil. Pour in the kidney beans (including the liquid from the tin), add the grated creamed coconut and cook, stirring, until the coconut has dissolved and the mixture has become creamy. Pour in the water, drop in the whole chilli and stir in the salt. Bring to the boil, cover with a lid, then reduce the heat and simmer for 25–30 minutes until cooked through.
Remove the pan from the heat and let rest for 5 minutes. Remove and discard the thyme and chilli before serving.
Remove the curried goat from the oven, stir in the chopped coriander and serve with the rice ’n’ peas.
CURRIED GOAT WITH RICE ’N’ PEAS
JERK
Jerk is one of the most well-known dishes to have travelled out of the Caribbean in recent times. Originally, it was a method of preserving meat, said to date back to the 1700s and the Maroon slaves who escaped capture from the British army. They developed a method of spicing the meat and wrapping it in banana leaves until it was ready to be cooked over hot coals. The term ‘jerk’ is said to come both from the action of ‘jerking’, which refers to the poking of holes in the meat to allow the flavours to fully infuse, and the word ‘charqui’, which is a Spanish term for dried meat. Traditionally cooked in firepits in the ground, today jerk is often cooked in ‘jerk pits’ – steel drums cut in half and turned into grills.
From street food to upmarket restaurant fare, jerk is an important part of island food culture. Everywhere you go in Jamaica, everyone has their own version of jerk. In fact, it seems to be the same all over the Caribbean, where you can just about jerk anything. The most popular meat to jerk is chicken, followed by pork, but you can also jerk vegetables, fish, tofu and even fruit.
Most people like to keep their jerk seasoning recipe a secret – I tried very hard to get the secret ingredients from the chef at Scotchies in Jamaica! Two ingredients that an authentic jerk seasoning must contain are allspice and Scotch bonnet chilli peppers. Other flavourings that are often added include thyme, cloves, cinnamon, spring onions, garlic, ginger, sugar and sometimes a good dash of rum. You can jerk an ingredient dry with a rub, or jerk it wet with a marinade. Once the meat, fish or vegetables have been marinated and cooked slowly over smoking pimento wood, the end result is a wonderful spicy, piquant delight that’s exploding with flavour. Make it fresh or buy it commercially, but – more importantly – just get jerking …
BUTTERFLIED LAMB IN JERK BUTTER WITH PUMPKIN CHUTNEY
This is a fantastic weekend barbecue recipe. I’ve included a recipe for Jerk Butter, but to make life simpler you can add a tablespoon of store-bought jerk seasoning to some butter and brush over the lamb, if wished.
In a pestle and mortar, pound together the rosemary, garlic, lemon zest and salt into a paste. Rub the paste all over the lamb, making sure it’s thoroughly worked in. Cover with clingfilm and marinate for at least 2 hours or ideally overnight.
Meanwhile, make the chutney. Heat the oil in a heavy-based saucepan, add the onions and cook for 5–6 minutes, stirring, until soft. Add the chilli, ginger, garlic and mustard seeds and cook for 2–3 minutes until fragrant. Add the vinegar and sugar and bring to a simmer, then add the pumpkin, red pepper and water. Bring back to a simmer, season with salt and gently cook for 30–35 minutes, until the pumpkin is tender and the liquid has reduced. Set aside until ready to serve.
To make the jerk butter, heat the butter and oil together in a small saucepan until the butter has melted. Add all the spices, garlic and Scotch bonnet chilli and gently cook for 2–3 minutes until fragrant. Remove from the heat and stir in the lime zest and juice.
Preheat a barbecue or oven to 200°C/180°C fan/gas 6.
Remove the marinated lamb from the fridge and lightly oil. Place the lamb on the hottest part of the barbecue grill and seal on both sides, keeping the lamb moving so that the meat caramelises all over but doesn’t burn. Move the lamb to a cooler part of the barbecue and brush with the jerk butter. Cook the lamb for 40–45 minutes, flipping it every 10 minutes and brushing with more jerk butter (this will give you medium-rare lamb). Remove from the heat and let rest for 15 minutes before carving. Alternatively, roast the lamb in the hot oven for 30–40 minutes for medium-rare, basting frequently.
To serve, carve the lamb and serve with the pumpkin chutney.
TIP: To butterfly the leg of lamb, place the joint, meatier-side down, on a large chopping board. With your fingers, find where the long bone running down the length of the leg feels close to the surface. Using a sharp knife, split open the meat vertically along the bone and carefully peel it back from either side. At the furthest end is a group of smaller bones – continue to cut the meat away from these bones to completely open the leg up and lift the bones out. Cut away any excess fat and sinew. Alternatively, ask your friendly butcher to do it for you!
BUTTERFLIED LAMB IN JERK BUTTER WITH PUMPKIN CHUTNEY
AINSLEY’S ULTIMATE JERK CHICKEN
‘Jerking’ is all about maximising flavour. The great thing about jerk cooking is that you can use either a dry rub or a wet marinade, which means that you can use the wonderful flavours in such a variety of dishes, from meat or fish, to vegetables or grains. Traditionally, the mix will include allspice and Scotch bonnet chillies, but the spices can be adapted to taste. Here’s my ultimate jerk marinade with spatchcocked chicken. If you prefer, you can use four chicken breasts with the skin on and cook on the barbecue for 15–20 minutes.
SERVES 4
1 x 1.5kg chicken, backbone removed and spatchcocked (ask your butcher to do this)
mixed salad or coleslaw, to serve
For the Jerk Marinade
225g onions, peeled and quartered
2 small Scotch bonnet chillies, halved and de-seeded
50g fresh root ginger, peeled and roughly chopped
3-cm piece of fresh turmeric root, peeled and roughly chopped (or use 1 tbsp ground turmeric)
½ tsp ground allspice
15g fresh thyme leaves
120ml white wine vinegar
120ml dark soy sauce
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
First, make the marinade. Place all the ingredients, except the seasoning, into a food processor and pulse until smooth. Season with a little salt and a generous grinding of black pepper.
Cut slashes into the smooth side of the spatchcocked chicken so that the marinade can penetrate the flesh and place the chicken in a shallow dish. Pour over the marinade and rub well into the meat. Cover and chill for at least 2–3 hours, or preferably overnight, turning every now and then.
Preheat a barbecue with a lid and take the chicken out of the fridge to come up to room temperature.
Cook the chicken on the hot barbecue with the lid down for 40–50 minutes, turning occasionally and basting with any leftover marinade, until the juices run clear when the thickest part of the thigh is pierced with a thin metal skewer.
Remove the chicken from the heat and rest for a few minutes, then serve with a simple mixed salad or a traditional crunchy coleslaw.
AINSLEY’S ULTIMATE JERK CHICKEN
DUTCHIE POT PEANUT BUTTER CHICKEN STEW
This is a hearty, easy one-pot meal, full of comforting flavours and spice. It’s great to use a traditional Dutchie pot, or Dutch oven, if you have one – I always use my mum’s old one. If not, a casserole dish or heavy-based lidded saucepan is just fine.
SERVES 4
4 tbsp olive oil
8 skinless and boneless chicken thighs (about 1kg in total)
1 red onion, thinly sliced
3 garlic cloves, finely sliced
3-cm piece of fresh root ginger, peeled and finely chopped
1 Scotch bonnet chilli (or 2 other hot chillies), left whole
2 bay leaves
1 x 200g tin chopped tomatoes
2 tsp sweet paprika
½ tsp ground cloves
150g chunky peanut butter
250ml chicken stock
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
plain brown rice, to serve
Heat the oil in a Dutchie pot, casserole or heavy lidded pan over a medium heat. Season the chicken thighs with salt and black pepper, add to the pot and brown for 5–7 minutes, turning until sealed on both sides (you may need to do this in batches). Remove and set aside.
Add the onion to the same pot and gently cook for 2–3 minutes until soft. Add the garlic, ginger, chilli and bay leaves and cook for a further 5 minutes, then add the tomatoes, paprika, cloves, peanut butter and stock and stir for a few minutes until well combined. Season to taste.
Return the chicken thighs to the pot, cover with the lid and gently simmer for 25–30 minutes, until the chicken is tender. Stir every now and then to prevent anything sticking to the base of the pot.
Check seasoning and serve with plain brown rice.
DUTCHIE POT PEANUT BUTTER CHICKEN STEW
GRILLED CHICKEN ROTI WRAP WITH HOT MANGO DRESSING
Roti are really popular in the Caribbean, especially in Trinidad, where they are filled with various foods such as curries or spiced chickpeas. Here, I’ve used store-bought roti (or chapatis) for a quick and simple snack or a light lunch, but of course you can make your own by following my recipe on page 128.
SERVES 4
4 skinless, boneless chicken breasts, cut into strips lengthways
1 tsp cayenne pepper
1 tsp ground cumin
1 tsp smoked paprika
a pinch each of sea salt and black pepper
2 tbsp olive oil
For the Hot Mango Dressing
8 heaped tbsp yoghurt
3 tbsp smooth mango chutney
4 tsp Hot Pepper Sauce (see page 18 or store-bought)
To serve
1 x packet pre-made rotis (chapatis) (at least 4 large wraps)
1 baby gem lettuce, leaves separated
½ red onion, finely sliced
1 avocado, sliced
Preheat the grill to its highest setting.
Place the chicken strips in a large bowl and sprinkle over the cayenne pepper, cumin, paprika, salt and pepper. Toss with your hands to ensure the chicken is well coated in the spices, then drizzle with olive oil. Place the chicken on a small baking tray and place under the hot grill, turning halfway through the cooking time, for 5–6 minutes (depending on how thick the strips are) or until cooked through.
To make the mango dressing, place all the ingredients into a small bowl and stir until well combined.
To assemble, lay the roti flat on the work surface and spoon a little of the mango dressing over each. Place a line of lettuce leaves, red onion and avocado slices down the centre of each roti and lay the chicken strips on top. Spoon over a little more dressing, then tightly roll the roti up to enclose the filling. Cut the wraps in half and enjoy.
GRILLED CHICKEN ROTI WRAP WITH HOT MANGO DRESSING
PEPPY’S BARBECUE CHICKEN WITH JAMAICAN FRIED THYME DUMPLINGS
During my recent trip to the Caribbean, I just had to rustle up one of my mum’s favourite recipes. I’ve added a little twist here and there over the years, but this dish always reminds me of my childhood. It’s a perfect weekday supper, as it’s made with lots of store cupboard and fridge ingredients.
SERVES 4
4 tbsp tomato ketchup
juice of 1 large lemon
2 tbsp soy sauce
1 tbsp dark brown sugar
1 tbsp English mustard powder
½ tsp ground allspice
½ tsp cayenne pepper
½ tsp sea salt
4 skinless, boneless chicken breasts
vegetable oil, for oiling pan (optional)
For the Fried Thyme Dumplings
200g plain flour
1 tsp baking powder
2 tbsp finely chopped flat-leaf parsley
½ tsp dried thyme
½ tsp sea salt
200ml milk
vegetable oil, for deep-frying
To serve
mixed salad leaves
olive oil, for drizzling
freshly squeezed lemon juice
In a large bowl, mix together the ketchup, lemon juice, soy sauce, sugar, mustard powder, allspice, cayenne pepper and salt. Add the chicken breasts, stirring to coat in the marinade, then cover and set aside for at least 20 minutes.
Preheat a barbecue or heat an oiled griddle pan until hot.
When ready to cook, scrape off any excess marinade from the chicken and reserve.
Cook the chicken on the hot barbecue or griddle pan for 8–10 minutes on each side, until well browned and cooked through. Baste with the leftover marinade towards the end of cooking for a sticky glaze.
Meanwhile, make the dumplings. In a large bowl, mix together the flour, baking powder, herbs and salt, then beat in the milk to make a thick batter.
Fill a large deep heavy-based saucepan or wok with oil to a depth of 3cm and set over a medium-high heat. Test the oil is hot enough for deep-frying by dropping in a small piece of bread: it should sizzle and brown in 40–50 seconds. Carefully drop heaped tablespoonfuls of the dumpling batter into the hot oil and fry for 3–4 minutes until golden brown, puffed up and cooked through. Don’t overcrowd the pan – cook no more than a few at a time. Remove with a slotted spoon to drain on kitchen paper.
Serve the barbecued chicken with the fried dumplings, accompanied by mixed salad leaves drizzled with olive oil and lemon juice.
PEPPY’S BARBECUE CHICKEN WITH JAMAICAN FRIED THYME DUMPLINGS
POPPY & COCONUT BEEF KEBABS WITH ROASTED CHILLI SALSA
These kebabs are lovely to cook on the barbecue, but are just as good made on a chargrill pan if the weather isn’t ideal. The toasted coconut adds a nutty sweetness to this spicy dish.
SERVES 4
1kg beef sirloin, cut into 2½cm dice
3 tbsp olive oil
2 tbsp minced garlic
2 tbsp minced ginger
1 tsp dried red chilli flakes
3 tbsp poppy seeds
3 tbsp white sesame seeds
1 tbsp cumin seeds
4 tbsp desiccated coconut
For the Roasted Chilli Salsa
3 long green chillies, tops trimmed
6–8 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil, plus an extra drizzle for oiling the chillies
1 garlic clove, peeled
a large handful of flat-leaf parsley
a handful of mint
juice of 1 lemon
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
Preheat a barbecue (if using).
Place the diced beef in a large bowl. In a separate small bowl, mix together the olive oil, garlic and ginger and pour over the beef. Mix with your hands to ensure the beef is well coated. Cover the bowl with clingfilm and marinate in the fridge for 1 hour.
Next, make the salsa. Unless using a barbecue, preheat the grill to its highest setting.
Place the green chillies on a small baking tray and lightly drizzle with oil. Place the tray under the hot grill for 5–10 minutes, until the chillies are charred and blistered – they should be nice and soft. Alternatively, this can be done directly on the barbecue.
Put the garlic, parsley, mint, lemon juice and charred chillies into a food processor and pulse for 4–5 seconds. Add the oil and pulse again, until the mixture is well combined but still quite coarse. Season with salt and pepper and set aside.
Heat a small dry frying pan over a low heat, add the chilli flakes, poppy seeds, sesame seeds, cumin seeds and desiccated coconut and lightly toast. As soon as the coconut turns golden, remove from the heat and tip into a pestle and mortar. Grind to a coarse texture.
Remove the marinated beef from the fridge, add the spice mixture and massage the spices into the beef. Thread the pieces of beef onto skewers.
Place the beef skewers on the barbecue (or on a pre-heated chargrill pan) and grill, turning frequently, for about 6 minutes, depending on how you like your beef cooked. Once cooked, remove from the heat and let rest for 5 minutes before serving.
To serve, place the beef kebabs on a board and spoon over the salsa.
POPPY & COCONUT BEEF KEBABS WITH ROASTED CHILLI SALSA
PORKY PUMPKIN & RED BEAN RUNDOWN
Porky Pumpkin – I know, it sounds like a cartoon character, but it really is a delicious meal! During cooking, it fills the kitchen with the amazing aroma of Caribbean spices. Mmmm.
SERVES 4
2 tbsp olive oil
1kg pork cheeks, cut into 3cm dice
2 white onions, finely diced
2 garlic cloves, crushed
4-cm piece of fresh root ginger, grated
1 small Scotch bonnet chilli, whole
4 fresh thyme sprigs
1 cinnamon stick
1 tsp ground cloves
1 tsp ground allspice
600ml chicken stock
1 x 400ml tin coconut milk
300g pumpkin or butternut squash, peeled, de-seeded and roughly diced
1 x 400g tin red beans, drained and rinsed
juice of 1 lime
a handful of chopped fresh coriander
Clap-hand Roti (page 128) or steamed rice, to serve
Preheat the oven to 180°C/160°C fan/gas 4.
Heat the oil in a large flameproof casserole dish with a lid, set over a high heat. Add the diced pork cheeks and brown in batches, making sure not to overcrowd the pan. Remove and set aside.
Reduce the heat and add the onions to the same pan. Gently cook for about 3–4 minutes, until softened, then add the garlic, ginger, chilli, thyme sprigs, cinnamon stick, cloves and allspice and cook for 30 seconds, just to remove the rawness of the spice. Return the browned pork cheeks to the pan and coat well with the spices. Pour in the stock and coconut milk and bring to a simmer, then cover with the lid and transfer the casserole dish to the oven to cook for 40 minutes.
Remove the casserole from the oven and add the pumpkin or squash and red beans. Carefully stir together, cover with the lid and return to the oven for a further 30–40 minutes, until the meat and pumpkin are tender.
To finish, stir through the lime juice and coriander and serve with Clap-hand Roti (page 128) or steamed rice.
PORKY PUMPKIN & RED BEAN RUNDOWN
RUM & SWEET MUSTARD RIBEYE STEAK
This is my version of a delicious steak recipe I tried in the Caribbean. It’s a simple, quick marinade and the sweetened rum and mustard work brilliantly with the beef. Ribeye steak is great to use for this, but you can choose the cut of your choice and alter the cooking times accordingly.
SERVES 4
100ml dark rum
100ml dark soy sauce
100g light brown sugar
2 tbsp Dijon mustard
½ tsp freshly crushed peppercorns
2 x 500g ribeye steaks
green salad and chips (optional), to serve
In a small bowl, combine the rum, soy sauce, brown sugar, mustard and crushed peppercorns and mix together until the sugar has dissolved. Place the steaks in a shallow dish and pour the marinade over the top. Set aside to marinate at room temperature for at least 30 minutes.
Preheat a barbecue or chargrill pan until hot.
Remove the steak from the marinade, shaking off the excess and reserving the marinade. Grill the steaks for 3 minutes until good char marks appear, then rotate the meat by 90 degrees to get a cross-hatch effect and continue grilling for another 3 minutes. Turn the steak over and repeat on the other side, until cooked to your liking (10–12 minutes in total for medium-rare). Set aside to rest for 5 minutes before slicing.
Meanwhile, put the marinade into a small saucepan set over a medium-high heat, bring to the boil and cook for 3–4 minutes until reduced and syrupy.
Slice the steaks thinly across the grain. Serve drizzled with the sweet mustard sauce, with a simple green salad … and perhaps some chips!
RUM & SWEET MUSTARD RIBEYE STEAK
SPICED SPATCHCOCK CHICKEN WITH PAPAYA GLAZE
The papaya, sometimes known as the paw paw, is a nutritious tropical fruit with a sweet and musky taste. In the Caribbean, it’s often used in savoury dishes, especially when unripe. The fruit and leaves of the papaya contain an enzyme that actually helps to tenderise meat, so it’s great to use in marinades. The flavour it adds to this sticky, sweet glaze works brilliantly with the spices.
SERVES 4
1 x 1.5kg chicken, backbone removed and spatchcocked (ask your butcher to do this)
1 tbsp ground allspice
1 tbsp smoked paprika
2 tbsp olive oil
a handful of watercress, to serve
For the Papaya Glaze
2 tbsp olive oil
½ white onion, finely chopped
1 tsp chilli flakes
500g papaya, peeled and diced
200g caster sugar
150ml water
80ml white wine vinegar
a pinch of salt
First, marinate the spatchcocked chicken. Place the chicken on a large tray and sprinkle over the spices. Massage the spices into the skin and meat, then cover with clingfilm and place in the fridge for at least 2 hours, or preferably overnight.
To make the glaze, heat the oil in a saucepan set on a medium heat, add the onion and chilli flakes and cook for 3–4 minutes, until soft. Add the diced papaya, sugar, water, vinegar and salt, bring to the boil and cook until reduced by half. Transfer the mixture to a blender and blend until smooth, then pour into a bowl and set aside.
Preheat a barbecue or oven to 200°C/180°C fan/gas 6.
Remove the marinated chicken from the fridge and feed two skewers through the thickest part of the chicken in a cross shape – this holds the chicken together and makes it easier to handle. Drizzle with olive oil and place the chicken on the hot barbecue grill, skin-side up. Grill for 20–25 minutes, moving it around frequently, then flip the chicken over to crisp up the skin for a further 10–15 minutes, making sure the skin doesn’t burn. When the skin is crisp, turn the chicken over and baste with the papaya glaze. Repeat this process on both sides for 10 minutes so that it is well glazed. Test to see if the chicken is cooked through by inserting a small knife into the thickest part of the leg – if the juices run clear, it is done. Remove from the heat and let rest for 10–15 minutes. Alternatively, roast the chicken in the hot oven for 30 minutes at 200°C/180°C fan/gas 6 and then increase the heat to 220°C/200°C fan/gas 7 and roast for a further 10–15 minutes until the chicken skin is crispy and the juices run clear.
Cut the chicken into pieces, pop onto a wooden board, sprinkle with watercress and serve.
SPICED SPATCHCOCK CHICKEN WITH PAPAYA GLAZE
TAMARIND TREACLE & RUM-GLAZED RIBS
Tender baby back ribs that fall off the bone … there’s nothing better. Basting keeps them moist and succulent and the tamarind delivers that gorgeous sweet-and-sour taste. These glazed ribs are great served with my Spiced Buttered Corn-on-the-Cob, a summer favourite in my house.
SERVES 4
6 tbsp black treacle
5 tbsp tamarind paste
250ml dark rum
4 large garlic cloves, crushed
2 red chillies, finely chopped
1 tsp chilli powder
1 tsp black mustard seeds
2 tsp black pepper
2 tsp sea salt
2 x 650–700g baby back pork rib racks
For the Spiced Buttered Corn-on-the-Cob
150g butter, softened
2 tsp smoked paprika
1 tsp ground allspice
1 tsp chilli flakes
2 garlic cloves, crushed
1 tsp salt
1 tsp black pepper
4 corn cobs, in their husks
In a large mixing bowl, whisk together the black treacle, tamarind paste, rum, garlic, chillies, chilli powder, black mustard seeds, pepper and salt.
Place the ribs in a deep roasting tray and pour over the marinade. Roll the ribs around in the marinade to ensure they are well covered, then cover with clingfilm and place in the fridge for at least 2 hours, or preferably overnight.
Preheat the oven to 200°C/180°C fan/gas 6.
Remove the ribs from the fridge and allow to come up to room temperature.
Remove the clingfilm, re-cover the roasting tray with foil and place in the oven for 30 minutes.
To make the Spiced Buttered Corn-on-the-Cob, mix together the butter, paprika, allspice, chilli flakes, garlic, salt and pepper.
Take the corn cobs and carefully peel back the husks, but do not completely remove. Remove any corn silk (this is the yellow stringy part of the corn around the husks). Liberally spread the smoky, spiced butter all over the corn, then roll back the husks to cover and tightly wrap each one in foil.
Pop the ribs into the hot oven. After 30 minutes remove the foil from the tray and spoon over the juices from the bottom of the tray to baste the ribs. Return the ribs to the oven and repeat this process once or twice more while cooking for a further 45 minutes until the ribs are well-glazed, sticky and tender – the meat should readily ease away from the bone. Let rest for 10–12 minutes before serving.
Place the cobs on a baking tray and roast in the oven for 25–30 minutes. Alternatively, place them straight onto a barbecue and grill for 25–30 minutes, turning from time to time.
To serve, unwrap the corn cobs, discarding the foil. The husks will come away easily, revealing the ready-to-eat corn. Serve the ribs with the corn alongside. Get licking those fingers.
TAMARIND TREACLE & RUM-GLAZED RIBS
WATERFALL PORK BELLY WITH ISLAND PROVISIONS
I’m serving this tender, succulent pork and its crispy crackling with traditional Caribbean provisions. Traditionally, ‘ground provisions’ is the term used to describe local root vegetables, such as yams, cassava, sweet potatoes, dasheen and plantain. You can use any combination you like and I recommend you trying to get hold of dasheen for its slightly nutty flavour. This makes a great Sunday lunch with a difference.
SERVES 4
1.5kg pork belly, skin on
4 tbsp cider vinegar
4 tbsp butter
6 garlic cloves, crushed
6 bay leaves, crushed
2 tbsp sea salt
1 tbsp crushed black peppercorns
300ml white wine
300ml chicken stock
For the root vegetables
1 yam, peeled and roughly chopped
1 dasheen, peeled and roughly chopped
1 sweet potato, peeled and roughly chopped
2 parsnips, cut lengthways into wedges
2 red onions, cut into wedges
4 garlic cloves
12 new potatoes
4 thyme sprigs
1 tbsp olive oil
250ml cold water
Bring a kettle of water to the boil. Place the pork in a colander, skin-side up, and carefully pour the boiling water over the pork rind. Let cool slightly, then rub the pork all over with cider vinegar, place it on a plate, cover and chill in the fridge overnight.
Preheat the oven to 200°C/180°C fan/gas 6.
In a bowl, blend together the butter, garlic, crushed bay leaves, salt and pepper, then spread it over the pork, ensuring it is thoroughly covered.
Place the pork, skin-side up, on a wire rack over an empty roasting pan (or on the oven shelf above), so that any juices can drip down into the pan. Roast for 1 hour.
Reduce the oven temperature to 180°C/160°C fan/gas 4.
Remove the pan with the pork juices from the oven and add the prepared vegetables, thyme, olive oil and water. Place the vegetable pan back underneath the pork and roast for a further 1 hour, basting the vegetables with the juices in the pan from time to time.
Take the pork from the oven and set aside to rest for 15 minutes. Remove the vegetables from the roasting pan with a slotted spoon and keep warm. Drain off any fat in the pan, leaving just the cooking juices behind.
To make the gravy, set the pan with the cooking juices over a medium heat, add the wine and stock and bring to the boil, then cook until the liquid has reduced by half. Strain through a sieve and skim off any fat.
Remove the crackling from the pork in one piece, carve the pork and serve with the crackling, roasted vegetables and gravy.
WATERFALL PORK BELLY WITH ISLAND PROVISIONS
PEPPY’S BRAISED OXTAIL WITH BUTTERBEANS
Once seen as a cheap cut, oxtail is now celebrated by chefs around the world. Although it can be tough, when it’s cooked slowly it breaks down into a soft and flavoursome, beefy delight. I’ve always loved this dish and the heavenly aroma of it cooking still reminds me of my childhood. It’s rich and hearty and perfect for a lazy Sunday with family and friends.
SERVES 4
50g plain flour
1 tbsp cayenne pepper
1.5kg oxtail pieces
4 tbsp olive oil
2 white onions, finely chopped
2 celery sticks, peeled and de-stringed, finely chopped
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
½ Scotch bonnet chilli, finely chopped
3 thyme sprigs
2–3 bay leaves
1 tbsp tomato purée
300ml red wine
1 litre chicken stock
1 x 400g tin chopped tomatoes
1 tbsp Worcestershire sauce
2 x 400g tins butterbeans, drained and rinsed
a handful of flat-leaf parsley, chopped
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
steamed white rice, to serve
Put the flour into a large bowl and season with a large pinch of salt and the cayenne pepper. Add the oxtail pieces, tossing to ensure the meat is thoroughly covered with the flour.
Heat the oil in a large flameproof casserole or Dutchie pot over a high heat and brown the oxtail pieces on all sides (in batches if necessary). Using tongs, transfer to a colander over a bowl and allow the excess oil to drain off.
Add the onions and celery to the same pan and sauté for 5–6 minutes until softened. Stir in the garlic, chilli, thyme, bay leaves and tomato purée and cook for 1–2 minutes. Deglaze the pan with the red wine, scraping the bottom of the pan to release any caramelised juices, then pour in the chicken stock, tomatoes and Worcestershire sauce. Season with a pinch each of salt and pepper.
Return the oxtail to the pan, bring to the boil, then cover and gently simmer over a low heat for 1½ hours, skimming if and when needed. Gently stir in the butterbeans and continue to cook for a further 20–30 minutes, until the meat just starts to come away from the bone and the beans are tender.
Sprinkle with parsley and serve with steamed white rice if you like.
PEPPY’S BRAISED OXTAIL WITH BUTTERBEANS
GRILLED LAMB CUTLETS WITH FRESH HERBY GREEN YOGHURT
Lamb is one of my favourite meats. I especially like barbecued or chargrilled cutlets, because the bone gives you a natural handle to eat them with. Dipped into my herby green yoghurt, these could become one of your favourites too! You can also cook them under a hot grill.
SERVES 4
zest of 2 limes
1 tbsp finely grated fresh root ginger
1 tsp curry powder
1 tsp chilli powder
2 tbsp olive oil
750g lamb cutlets
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
For the Herby Green Yoghurt
1 x 170g tub natural yoghurt
1 green chilli, de-seeded and finely chopped
1 garlic clove, finely chopped or grated
1 tbsp finely grated fresh root ginger
a handful of mint leaves, roughly chopped
a handful of coriander, roughly chopped
a handful of flat-leaf parsley, roughly chopped
juice of 1 lime
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
In a large bowl, mix together the lime zest, ginger, curry powder, chilli powder and olive oil. Season with salt and pepper and mix well. Add the lamb cutlets and toss through the marinade, ensuring they are well coated. Set aside to marinate for 30 minutes.
To make the herby green yoghurt, put the yoghurt into a bowl and add the chilli, garlic, ginger, herbs and lime juice. Give everything a good mix together and season to taste.
Preheat the barbecue or a chargrill pan to medium–high.
Cook the cutlets on the barbecue or in the chargrill pan for 4–5 minutes on each side (depending on how you like your lamb cooked). Once cooked, remove from the heat and let rest for a couple of minutes.
To serve, lay the cutlets on a board, drizzle over some of the herby green yoghurt and serve the remainder in a bowl on the side for dipping.
GRILLED LAMB CUTLETS WITH FRESH HERBY GREEN YOGHURT
BUTTERMILK CHICKEN BURGERS WITH TAMARIND MAYONNAISE
There are some fantastic green seasonings on the market, so by all means use one of these, but it really is worth making your own if you can – the freshness of the herbs really adds an extra something. Any leftover seasoning can be kept – I freeze mine in an ice-cube tray for convenience. Toss with root vegetables, add to curries or homemade soups for a spicy dash.
SERVES 4
For the Green Seasoning
a large handful each of flat-leaf parsley and coriander
1 tbsp fresh thyme leaves
2 green Scotch bonnet chillies
2 garlic cloves, halved
1 shallot, roughly chopped
4 spring onions, roughly chopped
2 tbsp olive oil
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
To make the green seasoning, place all the ingredients into a food processor and blitz together until smooth.
For the buttermilk chicken, mix together the buttermilk and green seasoning in a large bowl, add the chicken thighs and stir until they are well coated. Cover and place in the fridge for 2–3 hours, or ideally overnight, to tenderise and marinate.
Meanwhile, make the tamarind mayonnaise. Mix together all of the ingredients in a small bowl. Taste for sharpness and heat and adjust according to how you like it. Cover and chill until needed.
Fill a large deep heavy-based saucepan with vegetable oil to a depth of 4cm and set over a medium–high heat. Test the oil is hot enough for deep-frying by dropping in a small piece of bread: it should sizzle and brown in 40–50 seconds.
Meanwhile, place the flour in a large bowl, place the eggs in a separate large bowl and the panko breadcrumbs into a third. Remove the chicken from the fridge and brush off any excess buttermilk marinade. Dip each chicken thigh into the flour, then into the egg and finally into the breadcrumbs, coating well. Carefully lower each chicken thigh into the hot oil and cook for 7–8 minutes until golden, carefully turning the chicken with tongs to ensure they don’t stick together (you can cook in batches, if easier). Remove to drain on kitchen paper.
Slice the buns in half and lightly toast.
Spread 1 tablespoon of the tamarind mayonnaise over the base of each bun, then place baby gem leaves on top, add a crispy chicken thigh and a little more of the mayo, before topping with the other half of the bun.
BUTTERMILK CHICKEN BURGERS WITH TAMARIND MAYONNAISE
CHICKEN CALYPSO
This is one of the classic dishes of Dominica. It’s rich and full of flavour and, although there are many variations, it typically consists of chicken breast or thighs with vegetables and cashew nuts stewed with spices. It’s traditionally served with cassava bread, but I like to serve mine over steamed rice.
SERVES 4
4 skinless chicken breasts
3 tbsp olive oil
4 tbsp guava jelly
1 onion, finely sliced
2½-cm piece of fresh root ginger, finely julienned
150g button mushrooms, sliced
100g unsalted cashew nuts, roasted
200ml red wine
200ml chicken stock
1 tbsp cornflour, mixed with 3 tbsp water
steamed rice, to serve
For the marinade
4 tbsp white wine vinegar
2 tbsp sugar
2 garlic cloves, grated
2 thyme sprigs
1 tsp ground allspice
a good grating of fresh nutmeg
1 tsp crushed black peppercorns
1 tsp sea salt
To make the marinade, combine all the ingredients in a large bowl. Score the chicken breasts, place them in the marinade and mix until thoroughly coated. Cover with clingfilm and marinate for 2–3 hours or overnight in the fridge.
Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in a large frying pan over a medium heat. Remove the chicken from the marinade and brush off any excess. Carefully place the chicken in the hot pan and seal the meat on all sides. Add the guava jelly to the pan and let it melt and bubble down, then use tongs to turn the chicken breast in the hot glaze until lightly brown. Remove from the pan and set aside.
Meanwhile, heat the remaining tablespoon of oil in a saucepan over a medium heat, add the onions and ginger and cook for 2 minutes until softened. Add the mushrooms and sauté for 3–4 minutes, then stir through the cashews.
Increase the heat under the chicken pan and deglaze with the red wine. Add the stock and bring to a boil, then whisk in the slaked cornflour. Add the mushroom mixture, then return the chicken to the pan. Cover and cook for 20 minutes, until the chicken is cooked through and tender and the sauce has reduced to a dark, shiny and rich consistency.
Serve over steamed rice.
CHICKEN CALYPSO
PORK MEDALLIONS WITH A RUM, CREAM & NUTMEG SAUCE
Nutmeg is the national symbol of Grenada and its tree grows all over the island. It’s almost impossible not to taste nutmeg’s distinctive flavour when visiting the so-called Spice Island – it’s added to cocktails, cocoa, ice-cream, pastries and sauces. In this dish, which I made overlooking the beautiful True Blue Bay, the nutmeg sauce adds a slightly sweet, warm flavour that perfectly complements the tender pork. You can use a combination of sweet potato and pumpkin for the mash, if you like.
SERVES 4
2 tbsp olive oil
1–2 pork tenderloins (about 800g), trimmed and cut into 8 medallions
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
200g pak choi, lightly steamed to serve
For the Sweet Potato Mash
3 large sweet potatoes (about 750g), peeled
2 tbsp unsalted butter
a pinch of freshly grated nutmeg
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
For the Rum, Cream and Nutmeg Sauce
1 tbsp unsalted butter
1 shallot, finely chopped
25ml dark rum
250ml chicken stock
100ml double cream
1 tsp freshly grated nutmeg
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
Put the sweet potatoes into a large pan of water, bring to the boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for 10–12 minutes, or until the potatoes are tender when pierced with a fork. Drain well, then return to the pan and mash until smooth. Add the butter and nutmeg and season with some salt and pepper.
Meanwhile, place a large frying pan over a high heat and add the olive oil. Season the pork with salt and pepper, then carefully place into the hot pan and brown until sealed all over. Reduce the heat and cook for a further 6–8 minutes, turning occasionally. Remove to a plate and keep warm.
Make the sauce in the same pan; add the butter and shallot and cook for a few minutes until softened. Deglaze the pan with the rum and carefully flambé to burn off the alcohol. Add the chicken stock and bring to the boil, then cook until the mixture has reduced by two-thirds. Add the cream and any juices from the rested pork medallions, bring back to the boil, and cook until thickened to a double cream consistency. To finish the sauce, add the grated nutmeg and check the seasoning.
To serve, place a large spoonful of the sweet potato mash on one side of each plate, lay the pork medallions next to the mash, then spoon over the sauce and serve with pak choi.
