Soup for Two

This full-bodied soup marries butternut squash, bell peppers, and mole sauce, one of Mexico’s culinary gifts to the world. It’s a favorite cold-weather lunch or simple supper that’s rich in texture and flavor. There can be upward of twenty or thirty ingredients in mole, which is why buying it makes sense, especially if you buy an artisanal product from Mexico (see the sidebar). You might add diced avocado as a garnish, as well.

1 medium butternut squash, diced (4 cups)

1½ tablespoons canola or other vegetable oil

1 small onion, finely chopped (⅓ cup)

1 large clove garlic, minced

2 cups chicken or vegetable stock

1½ tablespoons prepared dark mole paste

½ medium red pepper, finely chopped (¼ cup)

½ medium green pepper, finely chopped (¼ cup)

1 teaspoon ground coriander

1 teaspoon ground cumin

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Sour cream or plain yogurt for garnish

Chopped cilantro leaves for garnish

Sliced scallions for garnish

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F. Line a baking sheet with aluminum foil.

Toss the squash with a little oil and place on the baking sheet. Bake until soft, 35–40 minutes, turning occasionally. Transfer the squash to a bowl and mash with a fork until more or less smooth. You should have about 1 cup of squash.

In a medium-size saucepan, heat the remaining oil over medium heat. Add the onion and sauté until translucent, about 3 minutes. Add the garlic and cook for 30 seconds. Add the stock, peppers, mole paste, coriander, cumin, and squash and bring to a boil, stirring to blend the mole in the liquid. Reduce the heat to medium and simmer until the peppers are tender, about 6–7 minutes longer. Season to taste with salt and plenty of pepper.

For a decorative garnish, fill a clean plastic squeeze bottle with the sour cream or yogurt. Ladle the soup into two wide, heated bowls. Squeeze the sour cream or yogurt onto the soup in a crosshatch or squiggle pattern, or simply add a dollop of sour cream in the center and sprinkle on the cilantro and scallions. Serve hot or at room temperature.

Mole Choices

If you don’t have the time or inclination to make mole, check Hispanic markets and online at sites like www.vivaoaxacafolkart.com, one I particularly like. Some restaurants even sell their own homemade sauce.

Because some mass market brands of mole seem to be thickened with a lot of breadcrumbs, I sometimes add briefly heated ground coriander, cumin, chile powder, and pulverized blanched toasted almonds or pumpkin seeds, or even almond butter to the paste, then purée the mixture and strain it to make commercial products more authentic tasting. If the paste is very stiff, I might dilute it with stock before adding it to the other ingredients to help thin it out.

CARROT-GINGER SOUP WITH CHÉVRE

This perfectly smooth, vibrant orange soup is made with just a few ingredients, so use the best young carrots, high-quality butter, and flavorful stock. (If your carrots are old, you could add a touch of sugar to the soup while cooking.) I frequently add a slice of goat cheese on top of the soup before serving it, but it’s delicious alone.

1½ tablespoons unsalted butter

½ pound baby carrots, sliced (2 cups)

3 tablespoons finely chopped shallots

2 tablespoons finely chopped candied ginger

1 tablespoon white rice flour (see note)

2 cups chicken or vegetable stock

Salt and white pepper

1½ tablespoons snipped fresh chives, and a few more for garnish

2 (½ -inch-thick) slices goat cheese from a 1½ -inch-wide log (optional)

In a medium-size saucepan, melt the butter over medium heat. Stir in the carrots, shallots, ginger, and rice flour. Cover tightly and sweat over medium-low heat until the carrots are very tender, 20–30 minutes, stirring occasionally.

Scrape the mixture into the jar of an electric blender, add the stock, and purée until completely smooth. Return it to pan. Season to taste with salt and pepper, stir in the chives, and reheat until hot, adding more stock if needed. Ladle into heated soup bowls, add the goat cheese if using, drizzle on the remaining chives, and serve.

Rice Flour

Rice flour is a useful way to thicken soups and keep them smooth. You can also grind raw rice into a powdery consistency in a spice grinder or clean coffee mill. If you grind the rice yourself, you may want to strain the soup to remove any bits of rice, to be sure it’s perfectly smooth.

GREEN BEAN–MUSHROOM SOUP WITH FRIZZLED ONION STRINGS

This soup was inspired by a beloved American dish of the 50s: green bean casserole made with canned cream of mushroom soup and topped with fried canned onions. In this updated version, sautéed aromatic vegetables and cremini mushrooms, blended with stock and a little cream, provide the earthy base for diced green beans showered with crunchy onion strings. They’re a far cry from the canned variety and dress up even the most mundane soup. You will have more than enough to snack on.

Frizzled Onion Strings (recipe follows)

⅓ pound thin green beans, trimmed and cut into ½ -inch lengths

1 tablespoon canola or other vegetable oil

1 small carrot, finely chopped (¼ cup)

1 small onion, finely chopped (¼ cup)

1 small parsnip, finely chopped (¼ cup)

1½ tablespoons unsalted butter

2 cups chopped baby bella (cremini) mushrooms (6 ounces)

1 clove garlic, minced

1 tablespoon finely chopped flat-leaf parsley

1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme leaves or ¼ teaspoon dried leaves

1¼ cups beef, chicken, or vegetable stock

⅓ cup light cream

1 teaspoon freshly squeezed lemon juice or to taste

Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Prepare the Frizzled Onion Strings up to the final frying. In a medium-size saucepan, cook the green beans in boiling salted water until tender; drain and set aside.

In the same saucepan, heat the oil over medium heat. Stir in the carrot, onion, and parsnip. Cover and sweat over low heat until the vegetables are tender, 10–12 minutes, stirring a couple of times. Uncover, add the butter and mushrooms, and sauté until the mushrooms are lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Stir in the garlic and cook for 30 seconds. Add the parsley, thyme, and half of the stock; stir up any browned bits.

Transfer the mixture to a food processor and pulse until chunky-smooth. Return to the saucepan along with the green beans, remaining stock, cream, and lemon juice. Season with salt and pepper to taste; partially cover and simmer for 10 minutes or until heated through.

Meanwhile, finish the Frizzled Onion Strings. Ladle the soup into two bowls, drizzle on some onion strings, and serve.

Frizzled Onion Strings

1 small yellow onion, cut in half horizontally, then into ⅛ -inch slices, and separated

¾ cup buttermilk or low-fat milk

½ cup all-purpose flour

¼ cup coarse cornmeal

1 scant teaspoon salt

½ cup canola or other vegetable oil

In a resealable plastic bag, combine the onion and buttermilk and soak for 30 minutes.

In a shallow dish, combine the flour, cornmeal, and salt. Line a plate or baking pan with paper towels.

In a small skillet, heat the oil over medium-high heat to 350 degrees F. on an instant-read or deep-fat frying thermometer. Working in small batches, toss the onion strings in the flour mixture, patting to remove excess flour. Immediately drop them into the oil and cook until golden brown, 1–2 minutes, turning often. With a slotted spoon, remove to the paper towels until all of the onion is cooked. Add additional salt to taste, if desired.

Baby Bella or Cremini Mushrooms

Called both “cremini” and “baby bellas,” these light brown mushrooms resemble a darker version of the common white button mushrooms but are more flavorful and somewhat firmer in texture. They’re a smaller, younger version of portobello mushrooms; unlike mature portobellos, their underside gills should not be exposed or opened. Wipe and trim before using.

GREEN VEGETABLE SOUP WITH PISTOU

Don’t be fooled by this soup, says Karen Berk, a terrific cook and dear friend. Alone, it’s bland (dare I say boring). But it’s based on an old Provençal recipe and is far more than the sum of its parts. The linchpin is the pistou, the French version of pesto that pulls all the ingredients together. It’s very garlicky. You can buy terrific prepared pesto today and add more garlic if you like. As befits foods from the south of France, this soup is delightful at room temperature but may also be served warm.

1 tablespoon fragrant extra-virgin olive oil

1 large zucchini, sliced (1 cup)

Half medium onion, sliced (½ cup)

2 cups chicken stock

⅔ cup frozen shelled edamame or baby lima beans, defrosted

⅓ cup frozen baby peas, defrosted

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Pistou (recipe follows)

Sour cream, crème fraîche, or plain Greek yogurt for garnish (optional)

In a medium-size saucepan, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the zucchini and onion and sauté until softened, about 10 minutes. Add the chicken stock and bring to a boil. Add the edamame or lima beans and the peas. When the mixture returns to a boil, reduce the heat, and simmer until the vegetables are soft, 5–7 minutes. Let the soup cool, then purée it in the jar of an electric blender. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Meanwhile, make the pistou.

If you’re serving the soup warm, return it to the saucepan and simmer over low heat, making sure it doesn’t boil. Serve with a generous dollop of pesto and sour cream or yogurt on top.

Pistou

Makes about ½ cup

1 tablespoon minced garlic (or 1½ tablespoons if you’re very brave)

¾ cup chopped flat-leaf parsley

¼ cup chopped basil

2 tablespoons pine nuts or pistachios, toasted

1½ tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

¼ teaspoon salt

½ cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

In a food processor, pulse the garlic, parsley, basil, pine nuts, salt, and olive oil until almost smooth. Add the cheese and briefly blend again. Scrape into a small bowl. Stored in a covered jar in the refrigerator; it will last for at least a week.

KALE, POTATO, TOFU, AND SUN-DRIED TOMATO SOUP

This silky smooth, creamy soup is rich and satisfying but has not a drop of dairy. Puréed tofu and soy milk are the secrets. For the kale, I prefer the lacinato variety, also known as Tuscan, black, or dinosaur kale. I like its full flavor and find it easier to remove the stems and center ribs and to julienne it.

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 medium onion, chopped (½ cup)

1 large clove garlic, minced

2½ cups very flavorful vegetable or chicken stock

1 medium-small Yukon Gold potato, diced (¾ cup)

½ cup diced firm tofu

⅓ cup soy milk

Salt and pepper

Pinch ground cayenne pepper

3 cups loosely packed julienned kale leaves with coarse stems removed

¼ cup finely chopped oil-packed sun-dried tomatoes

In a medium-size saucepan, heat 1 tablespoon of the oil over medium heat. Add the onion and sauté until golden, about 5 minutes. Stir in the garlic and cook for 30 seconds. Add 1½ cups of the stock and the potatoes, partially cover, and gently boil until the potato is tender when pierced with the tip of a knife, about 15 minutes.

Meanwhile, in the jar of an electric blender, purée the tofu and soy milk until smooth, scraping down the sides as needed. Add the potato, onion, and liquid and purée until smooth. Return the soup to the pan and season to taste with salt, pepper, and cayenne. Heat to just below a boil. Do not boil. Stir in the kale and tomatoes and simmer until the kale is tender, about 5 minutes. Stir in the remaining olive oil and serve.

PROVENÇAL TOMATO-FENNEL SOUP WITH SAFFRON

Fennel simmered with ripe summer tomatoes in a broth seasoned with thyme and herbes de Provence (see the sidebar), orange zest, and saffron reminds me of sunny days in Provence in southern Franced. A splash of anise-flavored Pernod brightens the taste. If you make the Morello Cherry Soup with Candied Ginger and Fennel here, this is a good place to use the other half of the fennel bulb.

1 tablespoon fragrant extra-virgin olive oil

1½ fennel bulbs, thinly sliced (2 cups)

1 small onion, thinly sliced (½ cup)

2 cloves garlic, thinly sliced

2–3 vine-ripened tomatoes, seeded and coarsely chopped (1½ cups)

1½ cups vegetable or chicken stock

1 sprig fresh thyme

½ teaspoon herbes de Provence or fresh rosemary and dried oregano (see the sidebar)

Grated zest of 1 small orange

Generous pinch saffron

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

2–3 teaspoons Pernod or other anise-flavored liqueur (optional)

2 tablespoons julienned basil or Salted Basil Cream here

In a medium-size saucepan, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the fennel, onion, and garlic; cover and sweat over medium-low heat until tender, 9–10 minutes, stirring occasionally.

Add the tomatoes, 1 cup of the stock, the thyme, herbes de Provence, orange zest, and saffron. Cover and gently boil until the tomatoes are tender and breaking down, about 10 minutes.

Remove the thyme sprig, scrape the soup into a food processor, and pulse until chunky-smooth.

To make the basil cream, add the cream to a small bowl with a pinch of salt and whisk it into soft peaks; then whisk in the basil.

Return the mixture to the saucepan, add the remaining stock, and season to taste with salt and pepper. Bring the soup to a gentle boil and add the Pernod if using. Ladle into bowls, garnish with basil, and serve.

Herbes de Provence

For decades, whenever I visited Provence, I saw small terra- cotta containers filled with a mixture of dried herbs such as savory, rosemary, oregano, and thyme being sold. Some included dried lavender leaves, as well. The first one I bought, tied with raffia and dried flowers, was ridiculously huge. In spite of wrapping a lot of clothes around the pot before putting it in my suitcase, it broke, and my clothes were liberally scented for a long time afterward. It taught me a valuable lesson: Don’t buy a large container of something you will only use occasionally before it loses its pungency, unless you just want it for decoration.

If you don’t want to buy herbes de Provence, you could add a sprig of fresh rosemary and a little dried oregano or marjoram along with the fresh thyme in the recipe.

CHUNKY LEEK, POTATO, AND TOMATO SOUP

This chunky-smooth soup is so full of flavor and satisfying textures, while still light and simple to make, you can enjoy it at almost any time of the year. To mash the potatoes, I find that an old-fashioned potato masher or fork, rather than a food processor, produces a nicer texture. For a heartier soup, you might add a couple slices of chopped bacon or small cubes of prosciutto during the cooking.

1 tablespoon fragrant extra-virgin olive oil, plus 1 tablespoon to drizzle on before serving

1 large leek, well rinsed, cut in half lengthwise and thinly sliced (¾ cup)

1 small carrot, finely diced (¼ cup)

½ medium celery rib, finely diced (¼ cup)

1 clove garlic, minced

2 cups chicken or vegetable stock

1 medium Yukon Gold potato, finely chopped (1 cup)

¼ cup canned petite diced tomatoes, drained

1 teaspoon finely minced fresh rosemary leaves or ¼ teaspoon crushed dried leaves

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 tablespoon finely chopped flat-leaf parsley for garnish

In a medium-size saucepan, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the leek, carrot, and celery and sauté until lightly colored, 3–4 minutes, stirring often. Add the garlic and cook for 30 seconds. Pour in the stock, stirring up any browned cooking bits.

Add the potato, cover, and gently boil until tender, about 15 minutes. Stir in the tomatoes, rosemary, and salt and pepper to taste. Using a potato masher, mash the potatoes until chunky-smooth—or transfer to a food processor and pulse until chunky-smooth.

Ladle the soup into two large shallow bowls, add the parsley in the middle, and drizzle the remaining oil in a circle around it.

SPICY ROASTED TOMATO–RED PEPPER SOUP WITH SALTED BASIL CREAM

Flame-roasted bell peppers combined with fire-roasted canned tomatoes, sautéed onion, and garlic make this soup addictive. Lightly salted, softly whipped basil cream is a nice garnish to complement the soup’s flavors.

1 large red bell pepper

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

1 small onion, thinly sliced (½ cup)

1 small carrot, thinly sliced (¼ cup)

2 cloves garlic, thinly sliced

1 (14½ -ounce) can crushed or diced fire-roasted tomatoes

1 cup vegetable stock

1 teaspoon sugar

¼ teaspoon red pepper flakes

Salt and white pepper

¼ cup heavy cream (optional)

8 basil leaves, chopped

Croutons for garnish (optional)

On top of a gas stove, place the pepper on the burner, close to the flame, and roast until all sides are charred, using tongs to turn it often. Remove, put it in a paper bag, and fold to close tightly (or put it into a bowl and cover with plastic wrap); let it steam until cool. Wipe off the charred skin with paper towels, remove the seeds and membranes, coarsely chop, and set aside.

In a medium-size saucepan, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the onion, carrot, and garlic; cover the pan and sweat over low heat until tender, about 7 minutes, stirring occasionally. Uncover and cook 2–3 minutes longer, until the onion is golden, stirring often. Scrape into a food processor along with the tomatoes and red pepper, and pulse until chunky-smooth or completely smooth.

Return the soup to the saucepan and stir in the stock, sugar, red pepper flakes, and salt and pepper to taste; simmer for 10 minutes.

To make the basil cream, add the cream to a small bowl with a pinch of salt and whisk it into soft peaks; then whisk in the basil.

Taste to adjust the seasonings in the soup, adding more stock if needed. Ladle it into two bowls, add a dollop of the salted basil cream, some croutons, and serve.

RAINY DAY TOMATO BISQUE WITH MINI CHEESE TRIANGLES

When I was growing up, tomato soup with grilled cheese sandwiches was my family’s go-to staple for lunch, especially on gloomy days. Tomato bisque was “fancier,” and I grew to love that creamy version. The small grilled cheese triangles are so perfect with the soup, you may want to double the recipe.

Mini Cheese Triangles:

2 slices firm, thin-sliced white bread

2 tablespoons unsalted butter at room temperature

½ teaspoon Dijon mustard

¾ cup shredded sharp or medium Cheddar cheese

Tomato Bisque:

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 small onion, finely chopped (⅓ cup)

½ medium celery rib, finely chopped (¼ cup)

2 cloves garlic, finely chopped

1 (14½ -ounce) can petite diced tomatoes, fire-roasted, if available

1¼ cups chicken or vegetable stock

2 teaspoons sugar

½ teaspoon dried oregano

⅓ cup heavy or light cream

Salt and white pepper

For the Mini Cheese Triangles: Lightly butter both sides of the bread. Spread a little Dijon mustard on one side of each slice. Set aside.

For the Tomato Bisque: In a medium-size saucepan, melt the butter over medium heat. Stir in the onion and celery and sauté until they start to color, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and cook for 30 seconds.

Remove about ¼ cup of the diced tomatoes from the can and set aside. Stir in the remaining tomatoes, the stock, sugar, and oregano and gently boil until the vegetables are soft, 12–15 minutes.

While the soup cooks, lightly spray a nonstick skillet with vegetable spray. Heat the skillet over medium heat. Lay 1 slice of bread with the mustard-coated side up in the skillet and sprinkle on the cheese. Cover with the second slice of bread with the mustard on the inside. Cook until the bottom slice is golden brown, about 2 minutes, turn, and cook the second side until golden. Remove, cut off the crusts, and slice diagonally into four triangles.

Scrape the soup into the jar of an electric blender and purée until totally smooth. Return it to the saucepan, stir in the cream and reserved tomatoes, and bring just to a simmer. Season to taste with salt and pepper, ladle into bowls, and serve with the Mini Cheese Triangles.

MISO SOUP WITH TOFU, SHIITAKES, BOK CHOY, AND SOBA NOODLES

This simple, flavorful broth with vegetables, mushrooms, tofu, and udon noodles takes little time to make and is very soothing. Cooked and packaged fresh noodles are available in many markets. They can be simmered in water for a couple of minutes or even microwaved to speed up the short process. To make this a little spicy, add red chile sauce to taste.

½ cup cooked thick udon noodles

1 teaspoon yellow or red miso paste (see the sidebar)

2½ cups water

2–3 teaspoons soy sauce

2 thin slices fresh ginger root, peeled and cut into thin matchsticks

1 clove garlic, thinly sliced crosswise

1 small baby bok choy, cut into ¼-inch slices

3 large shiitake mushrooms, stems removed, wiped, and thickly sliced

1 scallion, white and light green parts, thinly sliced, plus additional slices for garnish

½ cup firm tofu cut into ½-inch cubes

Red chile sauce (optional)

Cook or heat the noodles, drain, and set aside.

Meanwhile, in a small bowl, stir the miso and ½ cup of the water together and set aside.

In a medium-size saucepan, bring the remaining water, 2 teaspoons of the soy sauce, the ginger, and garlic to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer for 10 minutes.

Add the bok choy, shiitakes, scallion, tofu, and cooked noodles and simmer until the vegetables are wilted, 2–3 minutes. Stir in the diluted miso, add the remaining soy sauce and chile sauce if desired, and heat through. Do not boil. Ladle into bowls and serve with a few slices of scallion sprinkled on the soup.

Miso Paste in Different Colors

Miso pastes have become more available in mainstream supermarkets’ deli or dairy departments. As to which one you should buy, the answer is dependent on your own taste. All miso is made from fermented soybeans combined with other ingredients, typically grains. The mildest-tasting pastes range from white to light beige, and the beans are fermented with rice. Yellowish to pale caramel color miso comes from soybeans usually fermented with barley. It has the widest use in general cooking. Red miso is the strongest miso paste generally available, and the beans in it are fermented longer with grains like barley. It can easily overwhelm subtle flavors.

NONNA’S RICE AND POTATO SOUP

Chef Lidia Bastianich says this is the soup her grandmother made most often, and it’s still among Lidia’s favorites. She says the secret to the rich, complex flavor comes from the rinds of Grana Padano or Parmigiano-Reggiano. When you’ve finished grating the cheese, wrap the rinds in plastic and keep them in the freezer until you’re ready to toss them into a soup. (I also use rinds in Mom’s Minestrone here.)

1 tablespoon fragrant extra-virgin olive oil

1 Idaho baking potato, peeled, cut into½ -inch cubes (2 cups)

1 large carrot, peeled and shredded (⅓ cup)

1 medium celery rib, diced (⅓ cup)

Salt

1 scant teaspoon tomato paste

3 cups hot water

1 small bay leaf

Rind of Grana Padano or Parmigiano-Reggiano, scraped and rinsed

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

¼ cup long-grain rice

2 tablespoons freshly grated Grana Padano or Parmigiano-Reggiano

In a medium-size saucepan, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the potato and cook, stirring occasionally, until lightly browned, about 5 minutes. (It’s fine if the potatoes stick; just adjust the level of heat to prevent the bits of potato that stick from getting too dark.)

Using a wooden spoon, stir in the carrots and celery and cook until the carrots are softened, 2–3 minutes, and season lightly with salt. Stir in the tomato paste to coat the vegetables. Pour in the hot water, add the bay leaf, and bring the liquid to a boil, scraping up any bits of stuck potato.

Add the cheese rind, lower the heat to maintain a simmer, and season lightly with salt and pepper. Cover and cook until the potatoes begin to fall apart, about 40 minutes.

Stir in the rice and simmer until the rice is tender but still firm, about 12 minutes, stirring often. Remove the bay leaf. Sprinkle with the grated cheese, taste for salt and pepper, ladle into bowls, and serve with additional cheese at the table if desired.

WILD MUSHROOM SOUP

Chef Joy Strang’s soup is full of earthy, lush flavors and is pure indulgence. It’s a special soup for a winter’s celebration.

3–4 portobello mushrooms, including stems, wiped

5 cups water

2 tablespoons canola or other vegetable oil

½ pound wild mushrooms, such as oyster and shiitake, sliced (2 cups)

1 medium shallot, finely diced

1 large clove garlic, minced

1¼ cups hard cider

¾ cup diced dried apples

1 cup heavy cream

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons coarsely chopped toasted hazelnuts for garnish

In a medium-size pot, combine the portobellos and water and simmer for 1 hour, then strain and discard the solids. Makes 1 cup liquid. The stock may be made ahead of time and stored.

In a medium-size saucepan, heat 1 tablespoon of the oil over medium-high heat. Add the wild mushrooms and cook until browned, 6–7 minutes, stirring often. Add the remaining tablespoon of oil, the shallot and garlic, and cook until they start to brown, about 30 seconds.

Stir in the apple cider, scraping up all the brown cooking bits from the bottom of the pan. Add the dried apples, simmer for 3–4 minutes, and stir in the reserved mushroom stock and heavy cream. Simmer for about 5 minutes. Transfer the mixture to a food processor, and pulse until slightly chunky-smooth.

Return the soup to the pan, season to taste with salt and pepper, heat until hot over medium-high heat, and serve with the hazelnuts sprinkled on top.

SPICED RUTABAGA-APPLE SOUP

In northern Europe, rutabagas mashed with a little butter are familiar autumn fare and are known by several names (see the sidebar). Although considered too earthy tasting by many Americans, when slowly roasted the root becomes quite mild and sweet. In this robust, complex-tasting soup, it’s cooked with apple and garam masala, a spice blend typically used in Indian cooking that includes cardamom, cinnamon, clove, cumin, and peppercorns. As garnishes, thinly sliced apple, cilantro, and walnut pieces add visual appeal and texture.

1½ teaspoons canola or other vegetable oil

1 very small onion or ½ medium onion, chopped (¼ cup)

1 clove garlic, minced

2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh ginger

1½ –2 teaspoons garam masala

1 flavorful tart-sweet apple, such as Braeburn, peeled and cored

1½ teaspoons unsalted butter

1¾ cups diced rutabaga (see the sidebar for peeling instructions)

2 cups vegetable stock

½ cup half-and-half or light cream

Salt and white pepper

1 tablespoon chopped toasted walnuts

½ tablespoon chopped cilantro

In a medium-size saucepan, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the onion and gently sauté until it’s translucent and lightly browned, about 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the garlic, ginger, and 1½ teaspoons garam masala and cook for 1 minute longer, stirring a couple of times.

Dice about half the apple, and reserve the rest for the garnish. Add the butter, rutabaga, and diced apple, turning to coat them well. Cook for 2 minutes, pour in the stock, and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to a simmer, cover, and cook until the rutabaga is tender when pierced with a knife, 35–40 minutes.

Transfer the mixture to the jar of an electric blender or food processor and purée until smooth. Return to the pan, stir in the half-and-half, the remaining garam masala if desired, and season to taste with salt and pepper. Heat until hot. Ladle the soup into bowls. Add the walnuts, apple slices, and cilantro and serve.

A Rutabaga by Any Other Name

In northern Europe, rutabagas are far more popular than they are here, although they go by different names. The Irish call them turnips, the English call them swedes, and in Scotland they are sometimes known as neeps.

Whatever you call them, rutabagas are generally quite large and hard to peel and cut up. Some markets sell them already diced. If you have a whole one, take a sharp knife, place the rutabaga on its flat end, and cut it in half. Turn it on the cut side and cut it into ¾-inch slices, discarding the ends. Using a paring knife, cut off the tough skin and cut the flesh into ¾-inch cubes. Use extra rutabaga in “Silk Purse” Roasted Leftover Root Vegetable Soup (here).

CREAMY ONION, LEEK, AND SHALLOT BISQUE

This is a soup for onion lovers. Caramelized onions, leeks, and shallots (or only onions if you prefer) are puréed with chicken stock and then combined with sherry, sautéed onion, and a splash of cream at the end. What makes it so delicious are the fried leeks—and the Gruyère crostini, a contemporary interpretation of the typical (and often too heavy) cheese topping on many onion soups. Pass any extras at the table. They’re yummy!

2½ tablespoons unsalted butter

4 medium onions, thinly sliced (3 cups)

3 medium leeks, well washed, cut in half lengthwise and thinly sliced (1½ cups)

1 cup thinly sliced shallots

⅓ cup medium sherry, such as Amontillado

1 teaspoon chopped fresh tarragon leaves

2 cups chicken or vegetable stock

¼ cup heavy or light cream

Coarse sea salt and white pepper

4–6 thin slices French baguette, lightly toasted

1 clove garlic, cut in half

2 tablespoons olive oil

½ cup finely shredded Gruyère or Swiss cheese

In a medium-size saucepan, melt 2 tablespoons of the butter over medium heat. Add 2 cups of the onions, 1 cup of the leeks, and shallots and sauté until soft and golden brown, about 8 minutes. Stir and scrape the pan often to prevent burning.

Meanwhile, in a small skillet, heat the remaining ½ tablespoon of butter over medium heat. Add the remaining cup of onion and sauté until soft and rich golden brown, 7–9 minutes, stirring often. Watch that they don’t burn. Set aside.

Prepare the Crunchy Leek Topping (see next page).

Pour the sherry into the saucepan with the leeks and shallots and bring to a boil over high heat, stirring up all the browned bits. Scrape the mixture into the jar of an electric blender or food processor, add the tarragon, and purée until smooth. Return the mixture to the saucepan, add the stock and cream; simmer for 5 minutes. Stir in the caramelized onion from the small skillet, season to taste with salt and pepper, and keep warm over medium-low heat.

For the crostini: Rub the toasted bread with garlic and brush with oil. Lay the slices on a cookie sheet or on the tray of a toaster oven, sprinkle on the cheese, and broil until the cheese is melted and lightly browned. Ladle the soup into two wide bowls, sprinkle on the leeks, add 2 crostini to each bowl, and serve at once.

Crunchy Leek Topping

What a perfect use for the darker green parts of leeks—but not the very ends. For slicing leeks very thin, I love my OXO hand-held mandolin slicer, set on the narrowest setting, about inch. You can also slice the leek by hand. The oil, once strained, may be reused for frying.

Canola or other vegetable oil for frying

½ cup well-rinsed and very thinly sliced darker green parts of leeks, reserved from the soup

In a small, deep saucepan, pour in enough oil to measure 1 inch deep; heat over medium-high heat until the oil registers 350 degrees F. on a deep-fat frying thermometer.

Set a small strainer over a large glass measuring cup. Line a bowl with paper towels.

When the oil is hot, add the leeks and cook until lightly browned and crisp, about 1 minute, stirring constantly. Immediately remove the pan from the heat and pour the leeks into the strainer. Transfer to paper towels to drain. Strain the oil and reserve for other purposes.

MOM’S MINESTRONE

While living and traveling in Italy, I ate countless bowls of minestrone. They varied widely, but I usually found them comforting. Puréed white beans added to the stock make my minestrone heartier than those with a thin broth. The mix of vegetables is only my suggestion. It changes according to what’s in my refrigerator.

If you have the rind of a piece of Grana Padano or Parmigiano-Reggiano, do as Lidia Bastianich does with her Nonna’s Rice and Potato Soup here: add it to the soup while it simmers. For those who love pasta in their minestrone, cook it first and add it close to serving time to keep it from absorbing too much of the liquid.

1 tablespoon fragrant extra-virgin olive oil, plus additional oil to drizzle on the soup before serving

1 medium onion, finely diced (½ cup)

1 medium carrot, finely diced (⅓ cup)

1 medium celery rib, finely diced (⅓ cup)

2 large cloves garlic, minced

2 cups stock (I prefer half chicken and half beef), divided

1 baby bok choy, cut crosswise into ½-inch slices

½ cup rinsed and drained canned cannellini beans

¼ pound white mushrooms, sliced (½ cup)

1 small zucchini, sliced (⅓ cup)

⅓ cup drained canned diced tomatoes

1 tablespoon tomato paste

½ teaspoon dried oregano

⅓ cup drained canned garbanzo beans

Rind of Grana Padano or Parmigiano-Reggiano rind (optional)

2 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

In a medium-size saucepan, heat the oil over medium heat. Stir in the onion, carrot, and celery; cover and sweat until softened, about 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. Stir in the garlic, cook for 30 seconds, then add 1½ cups of leftover stock and the bok choy and gently boil for 8 minutes.

Meanwhile, in a food processor, combine the remaining ½ cup of stock with the cannellini beans and purée until smooth. Add them along with the mushrooms, zucchini, tomatoes, tomato paste, oregano, and garbanzo beans to the saucepan along with the Grana Padano or Parmigiano-Reggiano rind, if using; partially cover and gently boil for 25 minutes. Stir in the parsley and season to taste with salt and pepper. Ladle into bowls, add grated Parmigiano-Reggiano on top, drizzle on a little olive oil, and serve.

“SILK PURSE” ROASTED LEFTOVER ROOT VEGETABLE SOUP

How many orphaned carrots, flabby turnips, or homely parsnips have you found in your refrigerator? This hearty soup is one way to turn those less than pristine vegetables into a tasty “silk purse.” You can make the soup more exotic by adding ras al hanout, a warming mixture of ground spices typically found in Morocco (see the sidebar). Use whatever roots you have, including butternut squash, rutabagas, celery root, and those listed below.

2 tablespoons fragrant extra-virgin olive oil

1 small onion, diced (¼ cup)

2 large cloves garlic, chopped

1 tablespoon ras al hanout (optional)

2 cups mixed root vegetables, such as carrot, celery, fennel, parsnips, and turnip, cut into ½-inch cubes

Salt

Pinch cayenne pepper

2–2½ cups vegetable stock

⅓ cup canned chickpeas, rinsed and drained

1 teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger root

½ small jalapeño, or other chile pepper, seeds removed and finely chopped (optional)

¼ cup pitted, oil-cured, black olives, coarsely chopped (optional)

2 tablespoons chopped cilantro leaves

In a medium-size saucepan, heat 1 tablespoon of the oil over medium-low heat. Add the onion and sauté until softened and starting to color, about 5 minutes, stirring often. Stir in the garlic and ras al hanout if using, and cook for 30 seconds. Add the remaining oil and root vegetables, turning to coat them evenly.

Season the mixture with ½ teaspoon of salt or to taste and the cayenne; partially cover the pan and sweat the vegetables until lightly caramelized and almost soft, 10–15 minutes, stirring occasionally.

Add 2 cups of the vegetable stock, the chickpeas, ginger root, and jalapeño if using; simmer until the vegetables are completely tender, about 10 minutes, adding additional stock if needed. Stir in the olives, ladle into bowls, sprinkle on the cilantro, and serve.

Ras al Hanout

This Moroccan spice blend typically includes chile peppers, coriander, cardamom, cumin, clove, nutmeg, and turmeric. The name means “head of the shop” and suggests it’s the best the spice seller has to offer. While I was shopping at an herb vendor in Marrakech’s Jemaa El Fna square, the owner offered me a bag of his. It was so fragrant and far from the mucty, faded seasoning I’d tasted in many commercial products. You can buy it online and in many markets, but shop where the turnover is brisk for the freshest flavors.

TURKISH EGGPLANT SOUP

During the Ottoman Empire, the sultan’s cooks at Topkapi Palace prepared eggplants in countless ways. The fruit (yes—it has seeds) is still beloved in Turkey. This soup is based on Imam Bayildi, a very popular room-temperature meze, or appetizer. The name means the imam, or holy man, fainted. History doesn’t tell us whether such a dramatic result was caused by the sheer joy of the dish’s beauty and taste or by the lavish use of the then costly olive oil. The dish is in a category of vegetables slowly braised in olive oil, known as zeytinyaglis. As a soup, it may be served either at room temperature or warm.

½ medium eggplant, American, Italian, or Japanese variety (6–7 ounces)

Salt

3 tablespoons fragrant extra-virgin olive oil

1 medium onion, thinly sliced (⅔ cup)

2 large cloves garlic, finely chopped

1 plum tomato, cored, seeded, and chopped

3 tablespoons finely chopped flat-leaf parsley

1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves or ¼ teaspoon dried

1¾ cups vegetable or chicken stock

1 tablespoon tomato paste

1 teaspoon freshly squeezed lemon juice

¾–1 teaspoon sugar

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 tablespoon julienned fresh mint leaves or 1 teaspoon dried leaves (added with the stock)

2 tablespoons crumbled feta for garnish (optional)

1 tablespoon pine nuts for garnish

Peel the eggplant; slice it in half lengthwise and then crosswise into ¼-inch slices. Put the slices in a large strainer or colander, sprinkle with a teaspoon of salt, toss, and set aside to drain for 20–30 minutes. Rinse under cold water and pat dry with paper towels.

In a medium-size saucepan, heat half of the oil over medium-low heat. Add the onion and sauté until wilted and lightly colored, 3–4 minutes, stirring occasionally. Pour in the remaining oil, stir in the garlic, eggplant, tomatoes, parsley, and thyme; cover and cook over low heat until the eggplant is easily broken into small pieces with a wooden spatula or spoon, about 15 minutes, stirring a couple of times.

Add the stock, tomato paste, lemon juice, and sugar. If you’re using dried mint leaves, add them here. Season to taste with salt and plenty of freshly ground black pepper and simmer for 10 minutes. Taste to adjust the flavors. Let the soup cool to room temperature, if desired. Stir in fresh mint leaves, ladle into bowls, sprinkle on the feta if using, and the pine nuts, and serve.

CURRIED PUMPKIN-COCONUT SOUP

Warmly spicy Malaysian red curry paste enriches this comforting blend of pumpkin and coconut milk. Unsweetened, toasted coconut and minced fresh rosemary stirred in before serving add color and texture. If you make the Black Bean, Pumpkin, and Tomato Soup here, you can use the extra canned pumpkin here. Coconut water is now available in many supermarkets. Coconut oil is also more available than it used to be. See the sidebar to discover some of their benefits.

1 tablespoon coconut or vegetable oil

1 small onion, finely chopped (⅓ cup)

1 clove garlic, finely chopped

1¼ cups vegetable stock

¼–½ teaspoon Thai or Malaysian red curry paste (see the headnote about strength of curry paste, here)

1 cup canned or puréed cooked pumpkin

½ cup coconut milk, not “lite” variety

½ teaspoon ground coriander

Salt

¼–½ cup coconut water or additional stock

¼ cup unsweetened shredded coconut

1 teaspoon minced fresh rosemary

In a medium-size saucepan, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the onion and sauté until wilted and lightly colored, about 4 minutes. Stir in the garlic and cook for 30 seconds. Add the stock, curry paste, and pumpkin; bring to a boil, stirring to blend. Scrape into the jar of an electric blender and purée until smooth.

Return the soup to the saucepan. Stir in the coconut milk, coriander, and salt to taste. Return to a simmer and add enough coconut water to achieve the right consistency. Keep warm.

In a small skillet, toast the coconut over medium heat until golden, about 3 minutes, stirring or shaking the pan, and watching that it doesn’t burn. Ladle the soup into 2 large soup bowls, sprinkle on the toasted coconut, and the basil, and serve.

Nuts for Coconuts

If you’re lactose intolerant or want to add another flavor to your soups, coconut milk is a great replacement for dairy products. You may now be able to find half-gallon containers of coconut milk, which keep for a long time in the refrigerator. Unopened cans last indefinitely on your pantry shelf.

Coconut water is the clear liquid from immature coconuts. Unlike coconut milk, it is very low in fat. Coconut water is becoming more popular because it helps raise electrolytes without all the sugar of many sports drinks. I find it useful for thinning soups, as well.

My choice of a garnish here is toasted, unsweetened sliced or shredded coconut. It’s tasty and crispy without adding a lot of sugar.

THAI CARROT-GINGER SOUP

The same combination of carrots and candied ginger used for this smooth and delicious soup are also used for the soup with chèvre here. Here they take flight to Asia with the addition of Thai curry paste and a hint of coconut milk. Rice flour, or rice finely ground in a clean spice mill, thickens the soup into a velvety smooth consistency. The optional addition of shrimp would make it a more substantial meal.

1½ tablespoons coconut oil or unsalted butter

3–4 medium carrots, chopped (2 cups)

3 tablespoons finely chopped shallots

2 tablespoons finely chopped candied ginger

1 tablespoon white rice flour

1½ cups chicken or vegetable stock

½ cup canned coconut milk, not “lite” variety

¼–½ teaspoon Thai red curry paste

10–12 peeled and deveined medium shrimp (optional)

Salt and white pepper

1–1½ teaspoons freshly squeezed lime juice

1 tablespoon finely chopped cilantro leaves or rosemary

In a medium-size saucepan, heat the oil or butter over medium heat. Stir in the carrots, shallots, ginger, and rice flour. Cover tightly and sweat over medium-low heat until the carrots are very tender, 20–30 minutes, stirring occasionally.

Scrape the mixture into the jar of an electric blender, add the stock, and purée until completely smooth. Return the soup to the pan, stir in the coconut milk and curry paste, and bring to a simmer. Add the shrimp, if using, and cook until they are pink and just cooked through. Season to taste with salt and pepper, add the lime juice, ladle into soup bowls, garnish with herbs and serve.

FINNISH JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE SOUP WITH MARINATED TOFU

Jerusalem artichokes, or sunchokes, impart a subtle, earthy-nutty flavor to this ivory-colored soup. I first tasted it in the kitchen of Jarmo Vähä-Savo, the executive chef of G.W. Sundmans, an elegant, three-Michelin-starred restaurant in Helsinki. Like many contemporary Finnish dishes, it’s a simple blend of eclectic ingredients. In this soup, they’re accented with tiny cubes of tofu marinated in olive oil and thyme that really make this dish. Serve it hot or at room temperature. I urge you to try it.

¼ cup extra firm tofu, cut into ¼-inch cubes, plus more for garnish

1½ tablespoons fruity extra-virgin olive oil

½ teaspoon fresh thyme leaves

⅛ teaspoon salt

8 ounces Jerusalem artichokes, scrubbed and coarsely chopped

1 small Yukon Gold or other waxy potato, peeled and diced (½ cup)

1 small onion, sliced (⅓ cup)

1¼ cups water

⅓ cup dry white wine

¼ cup heavy or light cream

Salt

In a small bowl, stir the tofu, olive oil, thyme, and ⅛ teaspoon salt together and let marinate for at least 45 minutes.

Meanwhile, in a medium-size saucepan, combine the Jerusalem artichokes, potato, and onion with the water and the wine. Cover and gently boil until the vegetables are tender, about 30 minutes. Transfer the vegetables and liquid to the jar of an electric blender and purée until completely smooth.

Return the purée to the pan, stir in the cream, season to taste with salt, and heat until hot. Ladle the soup into shallow soup bowls, spoon a generous tablespoon of tofu in the center of each, and serve.