Burgundy

If Bordeaux is one of the classic wine-producing regions in France, Burgundy is the other. And our Burgundy Wine Mondays are nearly as popular as our Bordeaux events. After Pinot Noir wine became hugely popular, people figured out that the Burgundy region is where most Pinot Noir grapes grow. Suddenly no one can get enough of Burgundy. The region is like a special patchwork quilt of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir vineyards—wines made from grapes growing in vineyards right next door to each other can taste completely different because there are so many different soil types. And because Pinot Noir is so subtle and transparent, it tends to take on the flavors of whatever went on during its growing season. The variations between wines, even from the same producer, can be palpable—but good Pinot Noir is fantastic with many kinds of food, especially salmon and chicken.

Whole Roasted Tarragon Chicken with Roasted Chantenay Carrots, [>]

Sautéed Shrimp with Brown Sugar, Chili-Glazed Pink Grapefruit, and Citrus Hollandaise, [>]

Maine Lobster and Avocado Club Sandwich with Smoked Paprika Potato Chips, [>]

Alaskan King Salmon with Black Quinoa and Cherries, [>]

Walnut-Encrusted Spring Lamb with Bacon-Potato Rösti, [>]

Standing Rib Roast with Ruby Mustard, Roasted Eggplant, and Peas with Mint and Garlic, [>]

Pot-Roasted Pork with Chorizo and Clams, [>]

Pot-au-Feu of Poussin with Spring Vegetables and Foie Gras, [>]

 

Menu & Pairings

 

Black Walnut, Granny Smith, and Chèvre Tarte Tatin	Louis Bouillot, "Grande Réserve," Brut, Crémant de Bourgogne
Pan-Roasted Black Bass with Shrimp Flan and Stir-Fried Shiitakes	2004 Jean-Marc Brocard, Sauvignon de Saint-Bris
Whole Roasted Tarragon Chicken with Roasted Chantenay Carrots	2001 Domaine Carré-Courbin, "Les Lurets," Volnay Premier Cru
Chocolate-Orange Soufflés with Chocolate-Espresso Crème Anglaise	2001 Domaine Alain Burguet, "Les Pince Vin," Bourgogne

Wine Notes

1ST PAIRING: BLACK WALNUT, GRANNY SMITH, AND CHÈVRE TARTE TATIN
SERVED WITH: LOUIS BOUILLOT, "GRANDE RÉSERVE," BRUT, CRÉMANT DE BOURGOGNE

This is one of our favorite sparkling wines—it's part of the first course of our Bubbles, Bubbles Everywhere dinner ([>]). It's very similar to a Champagne (same grapes, same method), and it has notes of pear and apple that work well with goat cheese, especially when it's rich and melted as in this tarte tatin. A dry prosecco would also be great with this dish.

2ND PAIRING: PAN-ROASTED BLACK BASS WITH SHRIMP FLAN AND STIR-FRIED SHIITAKES
SERVED WITH: 2004 JEAN-MARC BROCARD, SAUVIGNON DE SAINT-BRIS, BURGUNDY

This is a fun wine, and an anomaly coming from Burgundy, because normally white Burgundy wines are Chardonnay. This is one of the few exceptions. There's a very small area in Burgundy where Sauvignon Blanc is grown, up to the north, close to Chablis. This wine features many of the same minerals you'd find in Chablis. Another Sauvignon Blanc aged in stainless steel would be good here—you just don't want something oaky, because that would interfere with the flavor of the bass.

3RD PAIRING: WHOLE ROASTED TARRAGON CHICKEN WITH ROASTED CHANTENAY CARROTS
SERVED WITH: 2001 DOMAINE CARRÉ-COURBIN, "LES LURETS," VOLNAY PREMIER CRU

This wine is a Pinot Noir, and L'Espalier wine director Erik Johnson's favorite thing to do is pair a simple roast chicken with a Pinot from Burgundy. This particular wine perfectly complements the tarragon chicken, because there are hints of tarragon flavor to the wine as well. Another earthy, soft Pinot from Burgundy would taste wonderful with this dish, too.

4TH PAIRING: CHOCOLATE-ORANGE SOUFFLÉS WITH CHOCOLATE-ESPRESSO CRÉME ANGLAISE
SERVED WITH: 2001 DOMAINE ALAIN BURGUET, "LES PINCE VIN," BOURGOGNE

The fruit for this wine comes from the Gevrey-Chambertin region in the north of Burgundy, and it's a fuller-style red Burgundy with nicely balanced flavor that pairs well with chocolate as long as the chocolate isn't too sweet (which this soufflé is not). Generally speaking, super-sugary desserts are not good with wine.

Black Walnut, Granny Smith, and Chèvre Tarte Tatin

We created this dish to pair with Champagne or sparkling wine. Many Champagnes and sparkling wines have a green apple flavor, so I wanted to use Granny Smiths in this tart. The nuttiness of the walnuts works well with the nuttiness of a brut Champagne, and goat cheese also tastes really good with Champagne. Look for black walnuts in specialty stores or better supermarkets, or substitute regular walnuts. Baking lore has it that the tarte tatin, an upside-down tart with caramelized apples, was first created in France by a lustful maiden who ran after a prince and left her apples cooking in butter and sugar until they caramelized—and she salvaged them in a tarte tatin. I like making a double recipe of Pâte Real, the pastry dough in this tart, and freezing the unused portion to have on hand anytime I want to make a pie or tart. Pâte Real is a rich dough that is sometimes called a quick puff pastry dough, because it has a little bounce to it. It's one of my favorite pastry crusts.

 

7	Granny Smith apples, peeled, cored, and cut into sixths
1	teaspoon minced fresh rosemary, or ½ teaspoon ground dried rosemary
1	teaspoon fresh lemon juice
3	tablespoons butter
3	tablespoons sugar
1	teaspoon salt
½	cup toasted black walnuts ([>])
4	ounces soft (not aged) goat cheese
	Pâte Real ([>])
1	large egg
1	tablespoon milk

1. Preheat the oven to 400°F.
2. Place the apple pieces in a bowl. Add the rosemary and lemon juice and toss. Place a 10-inch nonreactive, ovenproof skillet or tatin pan over medium-high heat. Add the butter. When the butter is completely melted, add the sugar and salt, stirring with a wooden spoon until it bubbles and a slight caramel color develops. Arrange half of the apples in a fan pattern in the butter mixture (this will be the top of your tatin), and evenly distribute half of the walnuts over the apples. Combine the remaining apples and walnuts in a bowl and distribute evenly on top of the walnuts in the pan. Dot the apple and walnut layer with the goat cheese, distributing it as evenly as possible.
3. Remove the skillet from the heat. Drape the Pâte Real dough over the apples, tucking any overhanging dough down between the apples and the inside edge of the skillet. Beat the egg with the milk, and brush the dough with the egg-milk mixture. Place the skillet in the oven and reduce the heat to 375°F. Bake for 30 minutes, or until the pastry is golden. Remove and let cool on a wire rack for 15 minutes.
4. Loosen the edges of the pastry with a knife. Quickly and carefully invert the tarte tatin onto a platter and serve.

Pâte Real

1	cup all-purpose flour
½	teaspoon salt
1	cup (2 sticks) butter
1	tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons heavy cream
2	large egg yolks
½	teaspoon fresh lemon juice

1. Place the flour and salt in a food processor and pulse to blend. Add the butter and pulse until the mixture looks like fine meal. Dump the mixture onto a floured work surface and form a well in the center. Place the cream, egg yolks, and lemon juice into the well. Knead together, incorporating the meal into the wet ingredients until the dough holds its shape, about 3 to 4 minutes, making sure not to overknead.
2. Place the dough on a floured surface. Roll into a 12-inch circle, about ¼ inch thick. Place on a flat sheet pan and refrigerate, covered with plastic wrap, for at least 20 minutes and up to overnight. (This also keeps well in the freezer for up to 1 month.)

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GOING ALL OUT

If you want to really go over the top with your tarte tatin, make this glaze, which adds a zesty component with tons of flavor, and finish with this prosciutto topping. The glaze is also fantastic in a ham sandwich.

Spiced Citrus Mustard Glaze

1	cup sugar
1	cup white wine
2	cups fresh orange juice
½	cup champagne vinegar or white wine vinegar
1	tablespoon chili powder
1	teaspoon cayenne pepper
1	tablespoon Dijon mustard

1. Combine the sugar and a splash of water in a medium-size saucepan over medium-high heat and cook, stirring to moisten the sugar, until the sugar develops a caramel color, about 5 minutes (watch it closely to make sure it doesn't burn).
2. Add the white wine, orange juice, and vinegar to the sugar and reduce the liquid by half (this should take about 10 minutes). Reduce by half again, about another 5 minutes. Stir in the chili powder and cayenne, then fold in the mustard. Remove from the heat and let cool. Spoon the sauce onto each of 6 plates before placing a section of tarte tatin on top.

Crispy Prosciutto

6	large, thin slices prosciutto

1. Preheat the oven to 350°F.
2. Place the prosciutto on a sheet pan, evenly spaced, and bake for 12 minutes, or until crispy. Remove, let cool, and lean a crispy piece against each slice of tarte tatin.

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Pan-Roasted Black Bass with Shrimp Flan and Stir-Fried Shiitakes

This preparation works with any type of bass. Bass fillets are known for their sweetness and tenderness and ability to pick up other flavors. Here I've chosen aromatic Asian-inspired flavors that play off the nuances of the bass. If you're serving the flan with the bass, you can make the flan in advance and let it sit at room temperature for 45 minutes before serving.

 

3	tablespoons fresh grapefruit juice
1	tablespoon fresh lime juice
1	tablespoon light soy sauce
1	garlic clove, minced
½	teaspoon crushed red pepper
1	stalk lemongrass, pounded and chopped
1	tablespoon grated fresh ginger
8	scallions, thinly sliced on the bias
1	tablespoon brown sugar
1	teaspoon red curry paste
4	tablespoons canola oil
6	4-ounce black bass fillets
1	tablespoon coarse sea salt
1	teaspoon freshly ground white pepper
4	tablespoons chopped fresh basil

1. Combine the grapefruit and lime juices with the soy sauce, garlic, crushed red pepper, lemongrass, ginger, scallions, brown sugar, curry paste, and 1 tablespoon of the canola oil in a medium-size bowl.
2. Place the bass fillets in a large, shallow dish, skin side up. Pour the marinade over the fish, distributing it evenly over the fillets. Refrigerate for 1 hour.
3. Preheat the oven to 400°F.
4. Remove the fillets from the marinade and set the marinade aside. Season the flesh side of the fillets with the salt and pepper. Heat a medium-size ovenproof sauté pan over high heat for 3 minutes. Reduce the heat to medium-high and add the remaining 3 tablespoons canola oil. Heat the oil for 1 minute, then place the fillets in the pan, skin side down. Moving quickly, retrieve the scallions from the marinade and add about half of them to the pan. (Discard the remaining scallions, but reserve the marinade.) After the bass has been in the pan for about 2 minutes, remove the pan from the burner, place it on the middle rack of the oven, and bake for 4 minutes.
5. Pour the marinade into a small saucepan and reduce the liquid by half, about 4 minutes. Set aside.
6. Remove the pan from the oven and let it sit for 2 to 4 minutes on a cool burner. Lift the fillets out of the pan with an offset spatula and place them on a serving platter. Spoon the reduced marinade over them. Sprinkle with the basil and serve with Shrimp Flan ([>]) and Stir-Fried Shiitakes (recipe follows).

Stir-Fried Shiitakes

¼	pound (about 2 cups) shiitake mushrooms
2	tablespoons peanut oil
1	shallot, minced
1	garlic clove, minced
1	tablespoon light soy sauce
1	teaspoon salt
½	teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1. Slice the mushrooms about ¼ inch thick. Place a wok or medium-size sauté pan over high heat for 3 minutes. Add the oil and heat for 30 seconds, evenly distributing the oil over the wok. Be sure not to let the oil burn. Add the shallot and garlic and cook for 10 seconds. Add the mushrooms and stir so that they all make contact with the surface of the wok.
2. Add the soy sauce, salt, and pepper and mix well. Cover, reduce the heat to low, and cook for 3 minutes. Serve immediately.

 

ROASTING BASS

For every 1 inch of thickness, roast bass for 8 to 10 minutes (so you'd roast a ½-inch-thick fillet for 4 to 5 minutes) at 400°F. This will cook the fish to medium. For medium-rare, reduce the cooking time by about 10 percent.

Shrimp Flan

½	pound shrimp, peeled and deveined
1	garlic clove, minced
1	teaspoon pickled ginger
	Zest of ½ orange
	Zest of 1 lime
1	teaspoon fresh lemon juice
½	teaspoon ginger juice
¼	cup chopped scallions (green parts only)
½	teaspoon cayenne pepper
¼	teaspoon ground nutmeg
3	tablespoons fresh cilantro, finely chopped, plus 6 whole leaves for garnish
2	teaspoons salt
1	large egg, separated, white lightly beaten
2	tablespoons butter, at room temperature
3	tablespoons olive oil
½	teaspoon freshly ground white pepper
4	tablespoons heavy cream
6	pimientos or small pieces of sweet red bell pepper

1. Place the shrimp in a medium-size bowl. Add the garlic, ginger, orange and lime zests, lemon and ginger juices, scallions, cayenne, nutmeg, chopped cilantro, and salt and stir to combine. Let stand for 15 to 30 minutes. Meanwhile, place a food processor bowl in the freezer.
2. Preheat the oven to 350°F.
3. Pour the shrimp mixture into the chilled food processor bowl and puree for 2 to 3 minutes, or until smooth, stopping a few times to scrape the sides of the bowl to ensure that all the ingredients are evenly pureed.
4. Slowly drizzle the lightly beaten egg white into the mixture with the food processor running. Add the yolk. When the yolk is incorporated, add the butter. When the butter is incorporated, add the olive oil and blend. Add the white pepper and cream and blend until incorporated.
5. Oil six 4-ounce ramekins. Evenly distribute the shrimp mixture among the ramekins. Garnish the top of each with a cilantro leaf and a pimiento before baking. Place the ramekins into a shallow bain-marie (also known as a water bath—fill a baking pan with enough water to come up about one-third of the way on the outsides of the ramekins). Cover the pan with aluminum foil and bake for 25 minutes, or until set. Remove from the oven and let stand on a wire rack for at least 10 minutes. Remove the foil and unmold the flans onto individual plates.

Whole Roasted Tarragon Chicken with Roasted Chantenay Carrots

Tarragon and chicken is a match made in heaven—a classic, tried-and-true, French-inspired combination. Tarragon has aromatic, lemony nuances that bring out the flavor in the chicken. I always like including a straightforward roast chicken on Burgundy-inspired menus, because Burgundy is known for producing the best chickens in the world. Chantenay carrots are the sweetest on the market. They are a French variety that are left in the ground until the ground freezes, which boosts their sugar content. You can usually find them in late fall and winter, but regular carrots work just fine, too.

 

1	3½-pound roaster chicken, preferably organic free-range
2	lemons
1	tablespoon dried tarragon
4	garlic cloves, crushed
1	teaspoon salt
2	garlic cloves, minced
1	shallot, sliced
2	teaspoons paprika
1	teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1	tablespoon brown sugar
1	tablespoon canola oil
½	teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
1	tablespoon Dijon mustard
1	teaspoon ground coriander
1	cup water

1. Remove the giblets and neck from the chicken. Wash the neck and chicken thoroughly in your sink and pat dry; set aside, covered, in a cool place. If making the Chicken Liver Croutons ([>]), wash the liver and set aside. Discard the other giblets.
2. Juice the lemons and reserve the juice. Chop up the lemon rind and place it in a small bowl. Add the tarragon, crushed garlic, and the salt.
3. Stuff the cavity of the chicken with the lemon rind mixture and truss the legs together with butcher's twine ([>]). Combine the reserved lemon juice, minced garlic, shallot, paprika, pepper, brown sugar, canola oil, Worcestershire sauce, mustard, and coriander in a bowl large enough to accommodate the chicken and whisk until well combined. Reserve 1 tablespoon of the marinade if making croutons.
4. Holding the chicken by its legs, immerse it in the marinade. If you've reserved the liver to make the croutons, marinate it in a separate small bowl in the 1 tablespoon of reserved marinade. Cover the chicken and marinate in the refrigerator for 4 hours or overnight.
5. Preheat the oven to 425°F.
6. Place the chicken, breast side up, and the neck in a casserole dish. Pour the marinade over the top of the chicken; bake for 20 minutes. Turn the chicken so the breast side is down, add the water to the baking dish, and bake for an additional 20 minutes. Flip the chicken again, reduce the oven temperature to 350°F, and bake for another 20 minutes.
7. Remove the pan from the oven and lift the chicken out of the pan, letting the juices drain into the pan. Place the chicken on a cutting board, cover with aluminum foil, and let rest for 15 minutes.
8. Strain the juices from the pan through a fine-mesh sieve into a large saucepan. With a small ladle or spoon, skim any fat off the surface of the liquid and discard. Heat the liquid over medium heat and reduce by half, about 6 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
9. Carve the chicken breast and legs and place on a serving platter, spooning the sauce over the top.

Roasted Chantenay Carrots

6	large Chantenay or regular carrots, peeled and cut into 4-inch sticks
1	teaspoon dried tarragon
1	teaspoon salt
	Zest of 1 orange
2	tablespoons peanut oil

1. Preheat the oven to 350°F.
2. Place the carrots in a medium-size bowl and toss with the tarragon, salt, and orange zest. Heat a medium-size cast-iron skillet over high heat for 2 minutes. Reduce the heat to medium and add the oil. Heat for 30 seconds, then add the carrots.
3. Cook for 3 minutes, stirring frequently. Place the skillet in the oven and roast for 15 to 20 minutes, or until the carrots are golden brown.

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GOING ALL OUT

When I make a chicken I always do something with the chicken liver because it is loaded with flavor. These croutons add nice flavor and crunch to the chicken, and they also make delicious hors d'oeuvres on their own.

Chicken Liver Croutons

1	tablespoon canola oil
	Marinated liver from 1 chicken (reserved from Whole Roasted Tarragon Chicken, [>])
1	shallot, thinly sliced
½	teaspoon salt
¼	teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
½	teaspoon dried tarragon
¼	teaspoon ground nutmeg
1	tablespoon butter
3	slices fig or sourdough bread, cut into quarters and toasted

1. Preheat a small saucepan over high heat for 3 minutes. Reduce the heat to medium-high and add the canola oil. Add the liver and shallot to the pan. Cook the liver for minutes 1½ on each side. Reduce the heat to medium. Add the salt, pepper, tarragon, and nutmeg and toss.
2. Remove the pan from the heat and let cool for 5 minutes. Pour the contents of the pan into a food processor and puree until smooth. Add the butter and puree to emulsify. Scrape the mixture out of the food processor and taste for seasoning. Spread the mixture onto the toast and serve.

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Chocolate-Orange Soufflés with Chocolate-Espresso Crème Anglaise

Don't be intimidated by the idea of making a soufflé. Even standard soufflés are totally doable, but chocolate soufflés are the absolute easiest because the chocolate adds structure and makes them less likely to collapse. But you don't have to tell your guests that—let them be impressed.

 

4	tablespoons all-purpose flour
3	tablespoons unsweetened cocoa powder
½	cup chopped bittersweet chocolate
⅓	cup plus 1 tablespoon sugar
1	cup milk
1	teaspoon pure vanilla extract
12	large eggs, separated
2	tablespoons Grand Marnier
	Zest of 1 orange
2	tablespoons butter

1. Combine the flour, cocoa powder, chopped chocolate, and 1 tablespoon sugar in a small bowl and whisk to combine. In a separate bowl, lightly whisk together the milk, vanilla extract, and 3 of the egg yolks. Pour this mixture into the dry ingredients and whisk until thoroughly incorporated.
2. Pour the mixture into a medium-size saucepan and heat on medium-high, stirring constantly until it begins to thicken, approximately 5 minutes. Reduce the heat to medium-low and stir for about 4 minutes, or until the mixture bubbles.
3. Transfer the mixture to a small bowl and press plastic wrap onto the surface to keep the pastry cream from developing a skin while cooling. Let cool for 1 to 2 hours.
4. Preheat the oven to 350°F.
5. Add 7 of the egg yolks and the Grand Marnier to the cooled pastry cream and whisk until fully incorporated. Combine the 12 egg whites in a large mixing bowl and beat with an electric mixer until frothed, about 4 minutes. Slowly add ⅓ cup sugar and beat until medium-stiff peaks form.
6. Fold one-third of the egg white mixture into the pastry cream. Gently fold in the next third of the egg white mixture, being careful not to overmix. Gently fold in the last third of the egg white mixture, again being careful not to overmix. Gently fold in the orange zest.
7. Butter six 12-ounce ramekins. Divide the batter evenly among the ramekins and bake for 15 minutes. Serve immediately with Chocolate-Espresso Crème Anglaise (recipe follows). Puncture the top of the hot soufflés and pour the sauce right in.

Chocolate-Espresso Crème Anglaise

2	cups milk
⅓	cup sugar
3	tablespoons unsweetened cocoa powder
1	vanilla bean, split lengthwise and scraped
¼	cup unflavored ground coffee beans
5	large egg yolks
¾	cup chopped bittersweet chocolate

1. Prepare an ice bath ([>]).
2. Combine the milk, sugar, cocoa powder, vanilla bean pod and scrapings, and ground coffee in a medium-size saucepan. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat.
3. Reduce the heat to low. Place the egg yolks in a medium-size bowl and whisk about ½ cup of the hot liquid into the yolks to temper them. When well incorporated, pour the yolk mixture back into the pan and stir the mixture constantly with a wooden spoon until it's thick enough to coat a spoon, about 5 minutes (about 160°F on an instant-read thermometer).
4. Place the chopped chocolate into a bowl, pour the warm mixture over the chocolate, and whisk to emulsify. Strain the mixture through a fine-mesh sieve into the bowl in the ice bath and stir until it has cooled. Serve at room temperature.