The patterns in this book use the following basic stitches. They are shown worked into a starting chain, but the method is the same whatever part of the work the stitch is worked into.
To be able to start a crocheted piece the first step is to secure the working yarn on to the hook. You will need to make a slip knot to create the first loop on the hook, while a yarn over is the way you will make all subsequent loops.
Almost all crochet begins with a slip knot. Make a loop, then hook another loop through it. Tighten gently and slide the knot up to the hook.
Wrap the yarn from back to front over the hook (or hold the yarn still and manoeuvre the hook). This movement of the yarn over the hook is used over and over again in crochet, and is usually abbreviated as ‘yo’.
Chain stitch (ch)Pretty much every piece of crochet begins with a length of chain stitch. The pattern that you follow will tell you how many chains you will need for your first row (often referred to as the foundation row). To create circular pieces, such as those found in the Motifs section (see here), you will work a small number of chains and then join them with a slip stitch to form a round.
1 Yarn over and draw the yarn through to form a new loop without tightening up the previous one.
2 Repeat to form as many chains as required. Do not count the slip knot as a stitch. Note: Unless otherwise stated, when working into the starting chain always work under two strands of chain loops, as shown in the following diagrams.
Slip stitch (sl st)This is the shortest of crochet stitches and, unlike other stitches, is not used on its own to produce a fabric. It is used for joining, shaping and, where necessary, carrying the yarn to another part of the fabric for the next stage.
1 Insert the hook into the work (second chain from hook in diagram), yarn over and draw the yarn through both the work and the loop on the hook in one movement.
2 To join a chain ring with a slip stitch, insert the hook into the first chain, yarn over and draw the yarn through the work and the yarn on the hook.
1 Insert the hook into the work (second chain from hook on starting chain), *yarn over and draw the yarn through the work only.
2 Yarn over again and draw the yarn through both loops on the hook.
3 1dc made. Insert hook into next stitch; repeat from * in step 1.
Half treble (htr)
1 Yarn over and insert the hook into the work (third chain from hook on starting chain).
2 *Yarn over and draw through the work only.
3 Yarn over again and draw through all three loops on the hook.
4 1htr made. Yarn over, insert hook into next stitch; repeat from * in step 2.
Treble (tr)
1 Yarn over and insert the hook into the work (fourth chain from hook on starting chain).
2 *Yarn over and draw through the work only.
3 Yarn over and draw through the first two loops only.
4 Yarn over and draw through the last two loops on the hook.
5 1tr made. Yarn over, insert hook into next stitch; repeat from * in step 2.
Double treble (dtr)
1 Yarn over twice, insert the hook into the work (fifth chain from hook on starting chain).
2 *Yarn over and draw through the work only.
3 Yarn over again and draw through the first two loops only.
4 Yarn over again and draw through the next two loops only.
5 Yarn over again and draw through the last two loops on the hook.
6 1dtr made. Yarn over twice, insert hook into next stitch; repeat from * in step 2.
Triple treble (ttr), quadruple treble (quadtr) and quintruple treble (quintr) are made by wrapping the yarn over three to five times at the beginning and finishing as for a treble, repeating step 4 until two loops remain on the hook, then finishing with step 5.
A Solomon’s knot is a lengthened chain stitch locked with a double crochet stitch worked into its back loop.
1 Make one chain and lengthen the loop as required. Wrap the yarn over the hook.
2 Draw through the loop on the hook, keeping the single back thread of this long chain separate from the two front threads.
3 Insert hook under the single back thread. Wrap the yarn over the hook.
4 Draw a loop through and wrap again.
5 Draw through both loops on the hook to complete.
6 It is necessary to work back into the ‘knots’ between the lengthened chains in order to make the classic Solomon’s knot fabric.
These are the basic procedures for making crochet fabrics – the things that crochet patterns sometimes assume you know. These principles can be applied to all the patterns in this book.
To make a flat fabric worked in rows, you must begin with a starting chain (also called a foundation chain). The length of the starting chain is the number of stitches needed for the first row of fabric plus the number of chains needed to get to the correct height of the stitches to be used in the first row. All the patterns in this book indicate the length of starting chain required to work one repeat of the design.
When working an edging or trim, this can be worked from a foundation chain or from the edge of the fabric. If working along the edge of a fabric, join in the yarn and work the number of skipped chains specified at the beginning of the first row.
When working a motif in the round, you will need to join your starting chain with a slip stitch to link your chain into a circle and then crochet the first round.
A flat fabric can be produced by turning the work at the end of each row. Right-handers work from right to left and left-handers from left to right. One or more chains must be worked at the beginning of each row to bring the hook up to the height of the first stitch in the row. The number of chains used for turning depends upon the height of the stitch they are to match:
double crochet = 1 chain
half treble = 2 chains
treble = 3 chains
double treble = 4 chains
When working half treble or longer stitches the turning chain takes the place of the first stitch. Where one chain is worked at the beginning of a row starting with double crochet, it is usually for height only and is in addition to the first stitch.
Make a starting chain of the required length plus two chains. Work one treble into the fourth chain from hook. The three chains at the beginning of the row form the first treble. Work one treble into the next and every chain to the end of the row.
At the end of each row, turn the work so that another row can be worked across the top of the previous one. It does not matter which way the work is turned, but be consistent. Make three chains for turning. These turning chains will count as the first treble.
Skip the first treble in the previous row, work a treble into the top of the next and every treble including the last treble in row, then work a treble into the third of three chains at the beginning of the previous row.
Once you have completed a crochet piece you will need to secure the yarn end, or your stitches will unravel. To cast off the yarn permanently, break off the yarn about 5cm (2in) away from the work (leave a longer length if you need to sew pieces together). Draw the end through the loop on the hook and tighten gently. For a neat finish, you will want to sew the yarn end into the crochet fabric rather than leaving it hanging loose. Thread the yarn through a large-eyed tapestry or darning needle and weave it in and out of a few stitches until the yarn end is lost in the body of the fabric.
When joining a new yarn or changing colour, work in the old yarn until two loops of the last stitch remain in the old yarn or colour. Use the new colour or yarn to complete the stitch.
Continue to work the following stitches in the new colour or yarn, as before.
If you are working whole rows in different colours, make the change during the last stitch in the previous row, so the new colour for the next row is ready to work the turning chain.
Do not cut off any yarns that will be needed again later at the same edge, but continue to use them as required, leaving an unbroken ‘float’ thread up the side of the fabric.
If, at the end of a row, the pattern requires you to return to the beginning of the same row without turning and to work another row in a different colour in the same direction, complete the first row in the old colour and fasten off by lengthening the final loop on the hook, passing the whole ball through it and gently tighten again. That yarn is now available if you need to rejoin it later at this edge (if not, cut it).
All crochet stitches (except chains) require the hook to be inserted into existing work. It has already been shown how to work into a chain and into the top of a stitch; however, stitches can also be worked into the following places.
When a stitch, group, shell, cluster or bobble is positioned over a chain or chains, the hook is often inserted into the space under the chain.
It is important to note, however, whether the pattern instructions stipulate working into a particular chain, as this will change the appearance of the design.
If necessary, information of this kind has been given as notes with the diagram.
A bobble, popcorn or cluster that is worked into a chain space is shown in the diagram spread out over more than one stitch; therefore on the diagrams they will not be closed at the base.
Inserting the hook around the whole stem of a stitch creates raised or relief effects.
Working around the front of the stem (as in the diagram above) gives a stitch that lies on the front of the work.
Working around the back of the stem (as in the diagram above) gives a stitch that lies on the back of the work.
Inserting the hook between the stems of the stitches produces an open effect.
Ensure that the number of stitches remains constant after each row.
Inserting the hook under one loop at the top of the stitch leaves the other loop as a horizontal bar.
Working in rows
If you work consistently into the front loop only, you will make a series of ridges alternately on the back and front of the work. Working into the back loop only makes the ridges appear alternately on the front and back of the work.
If, however, you work alternately into the front loop only on one row and then the back loop only on the next row, the horizontal bars will all appear on the same side of the fabric.
Working in rounds
Working always into the front loop only will form a bar on the back of the work, and vice versa.
Tip
When you work into the front or back loop only, you will create a visible ridge in the work on the other side. This can be used for decorative effect, or to create structure. For example, when crocheting an object with a circular base, the ridge line can be used to demarcate the base from the main body of the object.
The number of starting chains required is given with each pattern. It may be given in the form of a multiple, for example: Starting chain: Multiple of 7 sts + 3. This means you can make any length of chain that is a multiple of 7 + 3, such as 14 + 3ch, 21 + 3ch or 28 + 3ch.
In the written instructions the stitches that should be repeated are contained within brackets [ ] or follow an asterisk *. These stitches are repeated across the row or round the required number of times. On the diagrams the stitches that have to be repeated can be easily visualized. The extra stitches not included in the pattern repeat are there to balance the row or make it symmetrical and are worked only once. Obviously, turning chains are worked only at the beginning of each row. Some diagrams consist of more than one pattern repeat, so that you can see more clearly how the design is worked.
Capital letters A, B, C, and so on are used to indicate different yarn colours in both the written instructions and the diagrams. They do not refer to any particular colour. For instructions on changing colour within a pattern see here.
Whenever you are following crochet pattern instructions, whatever form they take, probably the most important single factor in your success is obtaining the ‘tension’ or ‘gauge’ that the pattern designer worked to. If you do not obtain the same tension as indicated, your work will not turn out to be the measurement given.
The tension is usually specified as a number of stitches and a number of rows to a given measurement (usually 10cm/4in). The quick way to check is to make a square of fabric about 15cm (6in) wide in the correct pattern and with the correct yarn and suggested hook size, lay this down on a flat surface and measure it – first horizontally (for stitch tension) and then vertically (for row tension). If your square has too few stitches or rows to the measurement, your tension is too loose and you should try again with a smaller hook. If it has too many stitches, try a larger hook. (Hint: Stitch tension is generally more important than row tension in crochet.)
Note that the hook size quoted in instructions is a suggestion only. You must use whichever hook gives you the correct tension.
Tip
Working with colour is perhaps one of the most pleasurable and inspiring aspects of a craft such as crochet. One of the creative benefits of working with the stitch designs from this book is that you won’t need much yarn to work up a sample design to see if you like it and to see how your ideas for colour combinations turn out – try going through your stash and using up leftover scraps of yarn from other projects. The perennial ‘granny’ square never loses its popularity and is an excellent way of using scraps in a colourful way.
If you are working crochet to make something that requires shaping, such as decreasing for the neckline of a garment or increasing to add width for a sleeve, you need to know something about shaping.
Increasing is generally achieved by working two or more stitches in the pattern where there would normally be one stitch. Conversely, decreasing is achieved by working two or more stitches together, or skipping one or more stitches. However, it can be difficult to know exactly where these adjustments are best made, and a visual guide would make the work easier!
On the diagrams here we show you some examples of shapings, which cover a variety of possibilities. We recommend that you use this method yourself when planning a project. First, pencil-trace the diagram given with the stitch. If necessary, repeat the tracing to match the repeat of the pattern until you have a large enough area to give you the required shape. Once this is correct, ink it in so that you can draw over it in pencil without destroying it. Now over this draw the shaping you want, matching as near as possible the style of the particular pattern you are using.
Different effects can be created by small variations in the stitch-making procedure or by varying the position and manner of inserting the hook into the fabric.
This is a particular technique of crochet based on forming designs from a series of solid and open squares called ‘blocks’ and ‘spaces’. These are more often used in crochet lace patterns made with cotton, but can be worked in knitting yarn.
To work a space, make 2 chains, skip 2 chains (or 2 stitches on the preceding row), and work 1 treble into the next stitch. To work a block, work 1 treble into each of the next 3 chains or stitches. When a block follows a space, it will look like 4 trebles; this is because the first treble belongs to the adjacent space.
These consist of several complete stitches worked into the same place. They can be worked as part of a pattern or as a method of increasing. On diagrams, the point at the base of the group will be positioned above the space or stitch where the hook is to be inserted.
Any combination of stitches may be joined into a cluster by leaving the last loop of each temporarily on the hook until they are worked off together at the end. Working stitches together in this way can also be a method of decreasing. It is important to be sure exactly how and where the hook is to be inserted for each ‘leg’ of the cluster. The ‘legs’ may be worked over adjacent stitches, or stitches may be skipped between ‘legs’.
1 Work a treble into each of the next three stitches, leaving the last loop of each treble on the hook.
2 Yarn over and draw through all four loops on the hook. On diagrams, each ‘leg’ of the cluster will be positioned above the stitch where the hook is to be inserted.
When a cluster is worked into one stitch, it forms a bobble.
1 Work five trebles into one stitch, leaving the last loop of each on the hook.
2 Yarn over and draw through all the loops on the hook. More bulky bobbles can be secured with an extra chain stitch. If this is necessary, it will be indicated within the pattern.
Popcorns are groups of complete stitches usually worked into the same place, folded and closed at the top. An extra chain can be worked to secure the popcorn. They’re great for adding textural interest to a garment.
1 Work five trebles into one stitch. Take the hook out of the working loop and insert it into the top of the first treble made, from front to back.
2 Pick up the working loop and draw this through to close the popcorn. If required, work one chain to secure the popcorn. On diagrams, the point at the base of the popcorn will be positioned above the space or stitch where it is to be worked.
These are similar to bobbles but worked using half trebles. As half trebles cannot be worked until one loop remains on the hook, the stitches are not closed until the required number have been worked.
1 Yarn over, insert the hook, yarn over again and draw a loop through (three loops on the hook).
2 Repeat this step twice more, inserting the hook into the same stitch (seven loops on the hook); yarn over and draw through all the loops on the hook.
3 As with popcorns and bulky bobbles, an extra chain stitch is often used to secure the puff stitch firmly. This will be indicated within the pattern if necessary. A cluster of half treble stitches is worked in the same way as a puff stitch but each ‘leg’ is worked where indicated.
A picot is normally a chain loop formed into a closed ring by a slip stitch or double crochet. The number of chains in a picot can vary. When working a picot closed with a slip stitch at the top of a chain arch, the picot will not appear central unless an extra chain is worked after the slip stitch.
1 Work four chains.
2 Into fourth chain from hook work a slip stitch to close.
3 Continue working chains or required stitch.
This method produces stitches that are not entangled with each other and so maintain a clear ‘X’ shape.
1 Skip two stitches and work the first double treble into next stitch. Work one chain, then work second double treble into first of skipped stitches, taking the hook behind the first double treble before inserting. See individual pattern instructions for variations on crossed stitch.
Of all forms of crochet lace, Irish crochet is the most revered and sought after. This type of lace is comprised of separately crocheted motifs that are assembled into a mesh background.
True Irish crochet is made by first working motifs and then creating a net or mesh background incorporating the motifs and forming the fabric which holds them in position. This is done by placing the motifs in the required position, face down on paper or a scrap of fabric, and temporarily securing them. The background or filling, is then worked progressively, joining in the motifs. After the work is completed the paper or fabric is carefully removed.
Historically, crochet was believed to have been introduced into Ireland in the early part of the 19th century by nuns, probably from Italy or France. It was evolved by them and convent-educated girls into an art form in itself, reaching levels of complexity and delicacy not seen in other styles of crochet work.
Stitches and techniques were developed that are particular to Irish crochet. The use of padding threads, which are held at the edge of the work so that subsequent rows or rounds are worked over them to give a three-dimensional effect, is one example.
Because of the difficulty of giving general instructions for the construction of true Irish crochet and particularly since the various motifs can each be incorporated into almost any crocheted net background, we have simplified the following selection to give you a taste of Irish-style crochet.
Padding threads are used to give a three-dimensional appearance to some Irish crochet motifs. The thread used is usually the same as the thread used for the motif and the number of threads worked over determines the amount of padding. In this book we have usually worked over three thicknesses of thread.
The example below is for padding threads at the beginning of a motif, but they can also be used in other areas of motifs (see Tristar).
1 Make the required number of chains and join with a slip stitch.
2 Wind a length of thread three or four times around the end of a pencil or finger and hold against the chain.
3 The stitches are then worked over the chain and ‘padding’ threads. When the motif is complete, the ends of the padding thread are pulled through several stitches and cut. Instructions and diagrams of individual patterns indicate where it is appropriate to use padding threads. On the diagrams the padding thread is indicated with a thicker line.
Tip
Many of the circular motifs in the Motifs section (see here), like the Tristar shown here, can be used singly as doilies or stitched together to make larger items such as tablecloths, runners, placemats or throws. Make them in one single shade or experiment with colour combinations to create the most striking effect. Take good care of your crochet masterpieces as they could turn out to be heirlooms of the future. If an item is likely to receive some wear and tear in daily use make sure you use a yarn that can be easily laundered.
Most crochet pattern instructions are written out in words. In order to follow these, you must be able to understand the simple jargon, abbreviations and standard conventions. You are expected to know how to make the basic stitches and to be familiar with basic fabric-making procedures; anything more advanced or specialized is always spelled out in individual pattern instructions. Important terms and abbreviations with which you should be familiar are explained below.
alt = alternate
approx = approximate(ly)
beg = begin(ning)
ch sp = chain space
ch(s) = chain(s)
CL = cluster
cm = centimetre(s)
cont = continue
dc = double crochet
dtr = double treble
gr = group
htr = half treble crochet
in = inch(es)
quad tr = quadruple treble
rem = remains/ing
rep = repeat
RS = right side
sl st = slip stitch
sp = space
st(s) = stitch(es)
tch = turning chain
tog = together
tr = treble
trtr = triple treble
WS = wrong side
yo = yarn over
These are used to simplify repetition. Instructions are put inside brackets and these are to be worked the number of times stated, for example: ‘[1ch, skip 1ch, 1tr into next st] 5 times.’
A sequence of stitches after an asterisk means that the whole sequence between that asterisk and the next semi-colon is to be repeated as many times as necessary to reach the end of the row, for example:
‘*1ch, skip 1ch, 1tr into next st, 1ch, skip 1ch, 1tr into each of next 3 sts; rep from * to end, turn.’
If no further details are given, as in this case, the end of the sequence will coincide exactly with the end of the row. If there are stitches remaining unworked after the last complete repeat sequence, details of how to complete the row are given, for example: ‘Rep from * to last 4 sts, ending 1ch, skip 1ch, 1tr into each of last 3 sts, turn.’ ‘Rep from * 4 more times,’ means work that sequence 5 times in all.
Round brackets either enclose additional information, for example:
‘3ch (counts as 1tr), skip first dc’
or group together a sequence of stitches that are to be worked into the same location, for example:
‘3ch, in next 4ch-sp (1tr, 2ch, 1tr), 3ch’
The length of chain made at the beginning of a piece of crochet as a basis for constructing the fabric.
Filet crochet patterns, which are based on a regular grid of treble and chain stitches, are much easier to follow from a squared chart when you understand the basic procedures. This type of chart is also used to indicate different colours in Jacquard and Fair Isle patterns, which are usually based on a plain double crochet fabric.
Capital letters A, B, C, D, etc are used to indicate different yarn colours; when only two colours are involved and one of these is intended to dominate, the terms ‘main (M)’ and ‘contrast (C)’ may be used instead.
‘Front’ and ‘back’ mean the front and back surfaces of a fabric for the time being as you hold and look at it; these change over every time you turn the work.
Note: In garment pattern instructions, the terms ‘front’ and ‘back’ denote the different pieces of the garment.
Several stitches worked into the same place; sometimes called ‘shell’, ‘fan’ etc.
All but the simplest crochet stitch patterns are built around repeated sequences of stitches. In order to make sense of the instructions, you must have exactly the right number of stitches in your base row. This number is a multiple of the number of stitches required for one complete sequence – sometimes plus an extra edge stitch or two – and is given at the beginning of each set of instructions.
The number of chains you need for the base chain, in order to be able to create the appropriate number of stitches in the base row, is also given. For example, ‘Multiple of 2 sts + 1, (add 1 for base chain)’ = make 4, 6, 8, etc chains for a base row of 3, 5, 7, etc, stitches; or ‘Multiple of 8 sts + 3, (add 2 for base chain)’ = make 13, 21, 29, etc, chains for a base row of 11, 19, 27, etc, stitches.
A run of chain stitches normally brought back on itself and fixed into a decorative loop with a slip stitch or double crochet.
Note: Terms such as ‘group’, ‘cluster’, ‘picot’ and even ‘shell’, ‘fan’, ‘flower’, ‘petal’, ‘leaf’, ‘bobble’, etc do not denote a fixed arrangement of stitches. Exactly what they mean may be different for each pattern. The procedure is therefore always spelled out at the beginning of each set of instructions and is valid only for that set, unless stated otherwise.
The ‘right side’ is the surface of the fabric intended to be the outside of the finished article and therefore shown in the photographs; the ‘wrong side’ is the inside. If there is a difference, the instructions state which side is facing you as you work the first row and that surface of the fabric is identified and fixed from then on.
Hint: crochet stitches are not the same back and front and so the two sides of a fabric may well be quite different. Even when a stitch pattern has no particular ‘right side’, however, it is wise to make a positive decision in respect of all separate pieces of the same article, so that the ‘grain’ of the rows can be matched exactly when you join the pieces together.
Accurate stitch diagrams show the overall picture at a glance and at the same time indicate precisely every detail of construction. To follow them you need to be familiar with the symbols that represent each individual stitch. Stitch diagrams have been provided for most stitches, depending on the level of complexity.
One or more chains, depending upon the length of stitch required, worked at the beginning of a row (or end of the previous row) as preparation for the new row; sometimes counts as the first stitch in the new row. This is called ‘starting chain’ when working ‘in the round’.
Work over an existing row of stitches without ‘increasing’ (i.e. adding stitches and so making the fabric wider), or ‘decreasing’ (i.e. reducing the number of stitches and so making the fabric narrower). Precise methods of increasing and decreasing vary according to each stitch pattern and circumstances and are detailed in pattern instructions.
The stitch-making instruction to wrap the yarn from the ball over the hook (or manipulate the hook around the yarn) in order to make a new loop; always done in an anti-clockwise direction, unless otherwise stated.
Stitch diagrams are detailed ‘maps’ of the fabric as viewed from the right side. They enable you to see what you are going to do before you start and also where you are at any moment.
Chain
Slip stitch
Double crochet
Half treble
Treble
Double treble
Triple treble
Quadruple treble
Quintuple treble
Sextuple treble
Bullion stitch
Lace loop
Solomon’s knot
Double crochet cluster
Half treble cluster
Treble cluster
Double treble cluster
Triple treble cluster
Marguerites
The individual parts of the marguerite clusters have barbs.
Popcorns: Half treble
Popcorns: Treble
Popcorns: Double treble
Crossed stitches
X-shape
Picots
When a single picot loop occurs after a solid stitch, note the usual method of working the closing slip stitch.
Commence
Rejoin yarn
Bind off
Direction of row
2, 3 and 4 half treble group
Work 2 (3, 4) half trebles into same place.
2, 3, 4 and 5 treble group
Work 2 (3, 4, 5) trebles into same place.
2, 3, 4 and 5 double treble group
Work 2 (3, 4, 5) double trebles into same place.
3, 4 and 5 treble cluster
Work a treble into each of the next 3 (4, 5) stitches leaving the last loop of each on the hook. Yarn over and draw through all loops on hook. On diagrams each ‘leg’ of the cluster will be positioned above the stitch where the hook is to be inserted.
3, 4 and 5 double treble cluster
Work a double treble into each of the next 3 (4, 5) stitches, leaving the last loop of each on the hook. Yarn over and draw through all loops on hook.
3, 4 and 5 treble bobble
Follow instructions as if working a cluster but for each ‘leg’ insert the hook into the same stitch or space. For a 5 treble bobble, work five trebles into one stitch leaving the last loop of each on the hook. Yarn over and draw through all the loops on the hook. More bulky bobbles can be secured with an extra chain stitch. If this is necessary it would be indicated within the pattern.
4, 5, 6 and 7 double treble bobble
Follow instructions as if working a cluster but for each ‘leg’ insert the hook into the same stitch or space.
3 and 4 half treble popcorn
Work 3 (4) half trebles into the same place, drop loop off hook, insert hook into first half treble, pick up dropped loop and draw through.
3, 4 and 5 treble popcorn
Work 3 (4, 5) trebles into the same place, drop loop off hook, insert hook into first treble, pick up dropped loop and draw through.
3, 4 and 5 double treble popcorn
Work 3 (4, 5) double trebles into the same place, drop loop off hook, insert hook into first double treble, pick up dropped loop and draw through.
3 half treble puff stitch
Work 3 half trebles into same stitch, leaving the last 2 loops of each on the hook. Yarn over and draw through all loops on hook. If required, work one chain to secure the puff stitch.
Crossed double treble
Skip two stitches and work the first double treble into next stitch. Work one chain, then work second double treble into first of skipped stitches taking the hook behind the first double treble before inserting. See individual pattern instructions for variations on crossed stitch.
4-chain picot
(Closed with a slip stitch.) Work four chains. Into fourth chain from hook work a slip stitch to close. Continue working chain or required stitch.
For the sake of clarity, stitch symbols are drawn and laid out realistically, but are then distorted. Sometimes, for example, double crochet stitches may look extra long. This is only to show clearly where they go; you should not make artificially long stitches. When the diagram represents a fabric that is not intended to lie flat – for instance, a ‘gathered’ or frilled edging – since the drawing itself has to remain flat, the stitch symbols have to be stretched.
Stitches that are to be made by inserting the hook under only one of the top two loops are indicated by heavy- and lightweight stitch symbols with underlining. A lightweight symbol in conjunction with an underline means pick up the loop nearest the right side of the fabric, i.e. front loop on right-side rows, but back loop on wrong-side rows. A heavyweight symbol with an underline means pick up the loop nearest the wrong side, i.e. back loop on right-side rows, but front loop on wrong-side rows.
On the reverse of half treble stitches is a prominent horizontal thread or bar just below the top loops. A tilted lightweight symbol is used to represent this back bar. If stitches are worked into this bar rather than the top loops, both top loops of the stitch appear on the reverse of the side being worked.
When a stitch is to be worked by inserting the hook behind a stem (instead of under the top two loops), the stitch symbol ends in a ‘crook’ around the appropriate stem. The direction of the crook indicates into which side of the fabric the hook is to be inserted. On a RS row, work a raised stitch with a right crook at the front, and one with a left crook at the back.
The stitch symbol is extended downward to show where the hook is to go through the fabric.
Once you are familiar with the basic fabric-making procedures, it is usually clear where a stitch pattern diagram begins and ends, which direction a row goes, etc. (Hint: Look for the turning chain). If there is any doubt, additional directions are given with the help of various arrows.
Letters A, B, etc, and also light and heavy stitch symbols confirm changes of colour.
Figures indicate row (or round) numbers.
These are unlabelled rows that should be worked if an edging is not going to be worked directly along another edge.
When the base ring of a motif is drawn as a plain circle, make it by looping the yarn around a finger.
These indicate stitches that are worked with the darker stitches or arrows in front.
