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Index
Cover
Title Page
Dedication
Epigraph
Contents
Maps
List of Illustrations
Introduction
1: Long ago on the Ganges
2: The first sight of the river
3: Life at Hardwar
4: Down the Ganges
5: Through the Bhabar
6: The way to the Balawali Bridge
7: A short halt at a railway station
8: An encounter with a bridgekeeper
9: Terra firma
10: A journey through Uttar Pradesh
11: A place in the country
12: From a carriage window
13: Remembrance of things past
14: Slow boat to Kanpur
15: Christmas at Kanpur
16: The Ganges at Prayag
17: The way to Mirzapur
18: The fort at Chunar
19: A stay at Banaras
20: The day of Makara Sankranti
21: From Patna to Bankipore and back
22: Cooking a Baffat
23: The islands at Colganj
24: Into the Bhagirathi
25: Arrival at Calcutta
26: Down to the sea
Plates
About the Author
Praise
Also by the Author
Copyright
About the Publisher
Footnotes
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