[The Science and Lore of the Kitchen 01] • On Food and Cooking · the Science and Lore of the Kitchen by Mcgee, Harold -- Read -- Imperial Library of Trantor

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Acknowledgments Introduction: Cooking and Science, 1984 and 2004 Chapter 1 Milk and Dairy Products Chapter 2 Eggs Chapter 3 Meat Chapter 4 Fish and Shellfish Chapter 5 Edible Plants: An Introduction to Fruits and Vegetables, Herbs and Spices Chapter 6 A Survey of Common Vegetables Chapter 7 A Survey of Common Fruits Chapter 8 Flavorings from Plants: Herbs and Spices, Tea and Coffee Chapter 9 Seeds: Grains, Legumes, and Nuts Chapter 10 Cereal Doughs and Batters: Bread, Cakes, Pastry, Pasta Chapter 11 Sauces Chapter 12 Sugars, Chocolate, and Confectionery Chapter 13 Wine, Beer, and Distilled Spirits Chapter 14 Cooking Methods and Utensil Materials Chapter 15 The Four Basic Food Molecules Appendix: A Chemistry Primer Selected References Permissions Mammals and Milk The Evolution of Milk The Rise of the Ruminants Dairy Animals of the World The Origins of Dairying Diverse Traditions Milk and Health Milk Nutrients Milk in Infancy and Childhood: Nutrition and Allergies Milk after Infancy: Dealing with Lactose New Questions about Milk Milk Biology and Chemistry How the Cow Makes Milk Milk Sugar: Lactose Milk Fat Milk Proteins: Coagulation by Acid and Enzymes Milk Flavor Unfermented Dairy Products Milks Cream Butter and Margarine Ice Cream Fresh Fermented Milks and Creams Lactic Acid Bacteria Families of Fresh Fermented Milks Yogurt Soured Creams and Buttermilk, Including Crème Fraîche Cooking with Fermented Milks Cheese The Evolution of Cheese The Ingredients of Cheese Making Cheese The Sources of Cheese Diversity Choosing, Storing, and Serving Cheese Cooking with Cheese Process and Low-fat Cheeses Cheese and Health The Chicken and the Egg The Evolution of the Egg The Chicken, from Jungle to Barnyard The Industrial Egg Egg Biology and Chemistry How the Hen Makes an Egg The Yolk The White The Nutritional Value of Eggs Egg Quality, Handling, and Safety Egg Grades Deterioration in Egg Quality Handling and Storing Eggs Egg Safety: The Salmonella Problem The Chemistry of Egg Cooking: How Eggs Get Hard and Custards Thicken Protein Coagulation The Chemistry of Egg Flavor Basic Egg Dishes Eggs Cooked In the Shell Eggs Cooked Out of the Shell Egg-Liquid Mixtures: Custards and Creams Definitions Dilution Demands Delicacy Custard Theory and Practice Cream Theory and Practice Egg Foams: Cooking with the Wrist How the Egg Proteins Stabilize Foams How Proteins Destabilize Foams The Enemies of Egg Foams The Effects of Other Ingredients Basic Egg-Beating Techniques Meringues: Sweet Foams on Their Own Soufflés: A Breath of Hot Air Yolk Foams: Zabaglione and Sabayons Pickled and Preserved Eggs Pickled Eggs Chinese Preserved Eggs Eating Animals The Essence of the Animal: Mobility from Muscle Humans as Meat Eaters The History of Meat Consumption Why Do People Love Meat? Meat and Health Meat’s Ancient and Immediate Nutritional Advantages… …And Modern, Long-Term Disadvantages Meat and Food-Borne Infections “Mad Cow Disease” Controversies in Modern Meat Production Hormones Antibiotics Humane Meat Production The Structure and Qualities of Meat Muscle Tissues and Meat Texture Muscle Fiber Types: Meat Color Muscle Fibers, Tissues, and Meat Flavor Production Methods and Meat Quality Meat Animals and Their Characteristics Domestic Meat Animals Domestic Meat Birds Game Animals and Birds The Transformation of Muscle into Meat Slaughter Rigor Mortis Aging Cutting and Packaging Meat Spoilage and Storage Meat Spoilage Refrigeration Irradiation Cooking Fresh Meat: The Principles Heat and Meat Flavor Heat and Meat Color Heat and Meat Texture The Challenge of Cooking Meat: The Right Texture Meat Doneness and Safety Cooking Fresh Meat: The Methods Modifying Texture Before and After Cooking Flames, Glowing Coals, and Coils Hot Air and Walls: Oven “Roasting” Hot Metal: Frying, or Sautéing Hot Oil: Shallow and Deep Frying Hot Water: Braising, Stewing, Poaching, Simmering Water Vapor: Steaming Microwave Cooking After the Cooking: Resting, Carving, and Serving Leftovers Offal, or Organ Meats Liver Foie Gras Skin, Cartilage, and Bones Fat Meat Mixtures Sausages Pâtés and Terrines Preserved Meats Dried Meats: Jerky Salted Meats: Hams, Bacon, Corned Beef Smoked Meats Fermented Meats: Cured Sausages Confits Canned Meats Fisheries and Aquaculture Advantages and Drawbacks of Aquaculture Seafood and Health Health Benefits Health Hazards Life in Water and the Special Nature of Fish The Paleness and Tenderness of Fish Flesh The Flavor of Fish and Shellfish The Healthfulness of Fish Oils The Perishability of Fish and Shellfish The Sensitivity and Fragility of Fish in the Pan The Unpredictability of Fish Quality The Anatomy and Qualities of Fish Fish Anatomy Fish Muscle and Its Delicate Texture Fish Flavor Fish Color The Fish We Eat The Herring Family: Anchovy, Sardine, Sprat, Shad Carp and Catfish Salmons, Trouts, and Relatives The Cod Family Nile Perch and Tilapia Basses Icefish Tunas and Mackerel Swordfish Flatfish: Soles, Turbot, Halibuts, Flounders From the Waters to the Kitchen The Harvest The Effects of Rigor Mortis and Time Recognizing Fresh Fish Storing Fresh Fish and Shellfish: Refrigeration and Freezing Irradiation Unheated Preparations of Fish and Shellfish Sushi and Sashimi Tart Ceviche and Kinilaw Salty Poke and Lomi Cooking Fish and Shellfish How Heat Transforms Raw Fish Preparations for Cooking Techniques for Cooking Fish and Shellfish Fish Mixtures Shellfish and Their Special Qualities Crustaceans: Shrimps, Lobsters, Crabs, and Relatives Molluscs: Clams, Mussels, Oysters, Scallops, Squid, and Relatives Other Invertebrates: Sea Urchins Preserved Fish and Shellfish Dried Fish Salted Fish Fermented Fish Smoked Fish Four-Way Preservation: Japanese Katsuobushi Marinated Fish Canned Fish Fish Eggs Salt Transforms Egg Flavor and Texture Caviar Plants as Food The Nature of Plants Definitions Plant Foods Through History Plant Foods and Health Essential Nutrients in Fruits and Vegetables: Vitamins Phytochemicals Fiber Toxins in Some Fruits and Vegetables Fresh Produce and Food Poisoning The Composition and Qualities of Fruits and Vegetables Plant Structure: Cells, Tissues, and Organs Texture Color Flavor Handling and Storing Fruits and Vegetables Post-Harvest Deterioration Handling Fresh Produce The Storage Atmosphere Temperature Control: Refrigeration Temperature Control: Freezing Cooking Fresh Fruits and Vegetables How Heat Affects the Qualities of Fruits and Vegetables Hot Water: Boiling, Steaming, Pressure-Cooking Hot Air, Oil, and Radiation: Baking, Frying, and Grilling Microwave Cooking Pulverizing and Extracting Preserving Fruits and Vegetables Drying and Freeze-Drying Fermentation and Pickling: Sauerkraut and Kimchi, Cucumber Pickles, Olives Sugar Preserves Canning Roots and Tubers Potatoes Sweet Potatoes Tropical Roots and Tubers The Carrot Family: Carrots, Parsnips, and Others The Lettuce Family: Sunchoke, Salsify, Scorzonera, Burdock Other Common Roots and Tubers Lower Stems and Bulbs: Beet, Turnip, Radish, Onion, and Others Beets Celery Root The Cabbage Family: Turnip, Radish The Onion Family: Onions, Garlic, Leeks Stems and Stalks: Asparagus, Celery, and Others Asparagus The Carrot Family: Celery and Fennel The Cabbage Family: Kohlrabi and Rutabaga Tropical Stems: Bamboo Shoots and Hearts of Palm Other Stem and Stalk Vegetables Leaves: Lettuces, Cabbages, and Others The Lettuce Family: Lettuces, Chicories, Dandelion Greens The Cabbage Family: Cabbage, Kale, Brussels Sprouts, and Others Spinach and Chard Miscellaneous Leafy Greens Flowers: Artichokes, Broccoli, Cauliflower, and Others Flowers as Foods Artichokes The Cabbage Family: Broccoli, Cauliflower, Romanesco Fruits Used as Vegetables The Nightshade Family: Tomato, Capsicums, Eggplant, and Others The Squash and Cucumber Family The Bean Family: Fresh Beans and Peas Other Fruits Used as Vegetables Seaweeds Green, Red, and Brown Algae Seaweed Flavors Mushrooms, Truffles, and Relatives Creatures of Symbiosis and Decay The Structure and Qualities of Mushrooms The Distinctive Flavors of Mushrooms Storing and Handling Mushrooms Cooking Mushrooms Truffles Huitlacoche, or Corn Smut Mycoprotein, or Quorn The Making of Fruit: Ripening Before Ripening: Growth and Expansion The Work of Ethylene and Enzymes Two Styles of Ripening, Two Ways of Handling Common Fruits of Temperate Climates: Apple and Pear, Stone Fruits, Berries Pome Fruits: Apple, Pear, and Relatives Stone Fruits: Apricot, Cherry, Peach, and Plum Berries, Including Grapes and Kiwi Fruit Other Temperate Fruits Fruits from Warm Climates: Melons, Citrus Fruits, Tropical Fruits, and Others Melons Fruits from Arid Climates: Fig, Date, and Others The Citrus Family: Orange, Lemon, Grapefruit, and Relatives Some Common Tropical Fruits The Nature of Flavor and Flavorings Flavor Is Part Taste, Mostly Smell The Evolving World of Taste and Smell Flavorings Are Chemical Weapons Turning Weapons into Pleasures: Just Add Food The Chemistry and Qualities of Herbs and Spices Most Flavorings Resemble Oils The Flavor of an Herb or Spice Is Several Flavors Combined Flavor Families: The Terpenes Flavor Families: The Phenolics Flavor Families: Pungent Chemicals Why Pain Can Be Pleasurable Herbs, Spices, and Health Handling and Storing Herbs and Spices Preserving Aroma Compounds Storing Fresh Herbs Drying Fresh Herbs Cooking with Herbs and Spices Flavor Extraction Marinades and Rubs Herbs and Spices as Coatings Extracts: Flavored Oils, Vinegars, Alcohols Flavor Evolution Herbs and Spices as Thickeners A Survey of Common Herbs The Mint Family The Carrot Family The Laurel Family Other Common Herbs A Survey of Temperate-Climate Spices The Carrot Family The Cabbage Family: Pungent Mustards, Horseradish, Wasabi The Bean Family: Licorice and Fenugreek Chillis Other Temperate-Climate Spices A Survey of Tropical Spices Tea and Coffee Caffeine Tea, Coffee, and Health Water for Making Tea and Coffee Tea Coffee Wood Smoke and Charred Wood The Chemistry of Burning Wood Liquid Smoke Seeds as Food Some Definitions Seeds and Health Valuable Phytochemicals from Seeds Problems Caused by Seeds Seeds Are Common Food Allergens Seeds and Food Poisoning The Composition and Qualities of Seeds Parts of the Seed Seed Proteins: Soluble and Insoluble Seed Starches: Orderly and Disorderly Seed Oils Seed Flavors Handling and Preparing Seeds Storing Seeds Sprouts Cooking Seeds The Grains, or Cereals Grain Structure and Composition Milling and Refining Breakfast Cereals Wheat Barley Rye Oats Rice Maize, or Corn Minor Cereals Pseudocereals Legumes: Beans and Peas Legume Structure and Composition Legumes and Health: The Intriguing Soybean The Problem of Legumes and Flatulence Bean Flavor Bean Sprouts Cooking Legumes Characteristics of Some Common Legumes Soybeans and Their Transformations Nuts and Other Oil-Rich Seeds Nut Structures and Qualities The Nutritional Value of Nuts Nut Flavor Handling and Storing Nuts Cooking Nuts Characteristics of Some Common Nuts Characteristics of Other Oil-Rich Seeds The Evolution of Bread Prehistoric Times Greece and Rome The Middle Ages Early Modern Times The Decline and Revival of Traditional Breads The Basic Structure of Doughs, Batters, and Their Products Gluten Starch Gas Bubbles Fats: Shortening Dough and Batter Ingredients: Wheat Flours Kinds of Wheat Turning Wheat into Flour Minor Flour Components Kinds of Flour Dough and Batter Ingredients: Yeasts and Chemical Leavenings Yeasts Baking Powders and Other Chemical Leaveners Breads The Choice of Ingredients Preparing the Dough: Mixing and Kneading Fermentation, or Rising Baking Cooling The Staling Process; Storing and Refreshing Bread Bread Flavor Mass-Produced Breads Special Kinds of Loaf Breads: Sourdough, Rye, Sweet, Gluten-Free Other Breads: Flatbreads, Bagels, Steamed Breads, Quick Breads, Doughnuts Thin Batter Foods: Crêpes, Popovers, Griddle Cakes, Cream Puff Pastry Batter Foods Crêpes Popovers Griddle Cakes: Pancakes and Crumpets Griddle Cakes: Waffles and Wafers Cream Puff Pastry, Pâte à Choux Frying Batters Thick Batter Foods: Batter Breads and Cakes Batter Breads and Muffins Cakes Pastries Pastry Styles Pastry Ingredients Cooking Pastries Crumbly Pastries: Short Pastry, Pâte Brisée Flaky Pastries: American Pie Pastry Laminated Pastries: Puff Pastry, Pâte Feuilleté Sheet Pastries: Phyllo, Strudel Pastry-Bread Hybrids: Croissants, Danish Pastries Tender Savory Pastry: Hot-Water Pastry, Pâte à Pâté Cookies Cookie Ingredients and Textures Making and Keeping Cookies Pasta, Noodles, and Dumplings The History of Pasta and Noodles Making Pasta and Noodle Doughs Cooking Pasta and Noodles Couscous, Dumplings, Spätzle, Gnocchi Asian Wheat Noodles and Dumplings Asian Starch and Rice Noodles The History of Sauces in Europe Ancient Times The Middle Ages: Refinement and Concentration Early Modern Sauces: Meat Essences, Emulsions The Classic French System: Carême and Escoffier Sauces in Italy and England Modern Sauces: Nouvelle and Post-Nouvelle The Science of Sauces: Flavor and Consistency Flavor in Sauces: Taste and Smell Sauce Consistency The Influence of Consistency on Flavor Sauces Thickened with Gelatin and Other Proteins The Uniqueness of Gelatin Extracting Gelatin and Flavor from Meats Meat Stocks and Sauces Commercial Meat Extracts and Sauce Bases Fish and Shellfish Stocks and Sauces Other Protein Thickeners Solid Sauces: Gelatin Jellies and Carbohydrate Jellies Jelly Consistency Jellies from Meat and Fish: Aspics Other Jellies and Gelées; Manufactured Gelatins Carbohydrate Gelling Agents: Agar, Carrageenan, Alginates Sauces Thickened with Flour and Starch The Nature of Starch Different Starches and Their Qualities The Influence of Other Ingredients on Starch Sauces Incorporating Starch into Sauces Starch in Classic French Sauces Gravy Sauces Thickened with Plant Particles: Purees Plant Particles: Coarse and Inefficient Thickeners Fruit and Vegetable Purees Nuts and Spices as Thickeners Complex Mixtures: Indian Curries, Mexican Moles Sauces Thickened with Droplets of Oil or Water: Emulsions The Nature of Emulsions Guidelines for Successful Emulsified Sauces Cream and Butter Sauces Eggs as Emulsifiers Cold Egg Sauces: Mayonnaise Hot Egg Sauces: Hollandaise and Béarnaise Vinaigrettes Sauces Thickened with Bubbles: Foams Making and Stabilizing Foams Salt Salt Production Kinds of Salt Salt and the Body The History of Sugars and Confectionery Before Sugar: Honey Sugar: Beginnings in Asia Early Confectionery in Southwest Asia In Europe: A Spice and Medicine Confectionery for Pleasure A Pleasure for All Sugar in Modern Times The Nature of Sugars Kinds of Sugar The Complexities of Sweetness Crystallization Caramelization Sugars and Health Sugar Substitutes Sugars and Syrups Honey Tree Syrups and Sugars: Maple, Birch, Palm Table Sugar: Cane and Beet Sugars and Syrups Corn Syrups, Glucose and Fructose Syrups, Malt Syrup Sugar Candies and Confectionery Setting the Sugar Concentration: Cooking the Syrup Setting the Sugar Structure: Cooling and Crystallization Kinds of Candies Chewing Gum Candy Storage and Spoilage Chocolate The History of Chocolate Making Chocolate The Special Qualities of Chocolate The Kinds of Chocolate Chocolate and Cocoa as Ingredients Tempered Chocolate for Coating and Molding Chocolate and Health The Nature of Alcohol Yeasts and Alcoholic Fermentation The Qualities of Alcohol Alcohol as a Drug: Intoxication How the Body Metabolizes Alcohol Cooking with Alcohol Alcoholic Liquids and Wood Barrels Wine The History of Wine Wine Grapes Making Wine Special Wines Storing and Serving Wine Enjoying Wine Beer The Evolution of Beer Brewing Ingredients: Malt Brewing Ingredients: Hops Brewing Beer Storing and Serving Beer Kinds and Qualities of Beer Asian Rice Alcohols: Chinese Chiu and Japanese Sake Sweet Moldy Grains Starch-Digesting Molds Brewing Rice Alcohols Distilled Spirits The History of Distilled Spirits Making Distilled Alcohols Serving and Enjoying Spirits Kinds of Spirits Vinegar An Ancient Ingredient The Virtues of Acetic Acid The Acetic Fermentation Vinegar Production Common Kinds of Vinegar Balsamic Vinegar Sherry Vinegar Browning Reactions and Flavor Caramelization The Maillard Reactions High Temperatures and Dry Cooking Methods Slow Browning in Moist Foods Drawbacks of the Browning Reactions Forms of Heat Transfer Conduction: Direct Contact Convection: Movement in Fluids Radiation: The Pure Energy of Radiant Heat and Microwaves Basic Methods of Heating Foods Grilling and Broiling: Infrared Radiation Baking: Air Convection and Radiation Boiling and Simmering: Water Convection Steaming: Heating by Vapor Condensation and Convection Pan-Frying and Sautéing: Conduction Deep Frying: Oil Convection Microwaving: Microwave Radiation Utensil Materials The Different Behaviors of Metals and Ceramics Ceramics Aluminum Copper Iron and Steel Stainless Steel Tin Water Water Clings Strongly to Itself Water Is Good at Dissolving Other Substances Water and Heat: From Ice to Steam Water and Acidity: The pH Scale Fats, Oils, and Relatives: Lipids Lipids Don’t Mix with Water The Structure of Fats Saturated and Unsaturated Fats, Hydrogenation, and Trans Fatty Acids Fats and Heat Emulsifiers: Phospholipids, Lecithin, Monoglycerides Carbohydrates Sugars Oligosaccharides Polysaccharides: Starch, Pectins, Gums Proteins Amino Acids and Peptides Protein Structure Proteins in Water Protein Denaturation Enzymes Atoms, Molecules, and Chemical Bonds Atoms and Molecules Electrical Imbalance, Reactions, and Oxidation Electrical Imbalance and Chemical Bonds Energy Energy Causes Change The Nature of Heat: Molecular Movement Bond Energy The Phases of Matter Solids Liquids Gases Many Food Molecules Can’t Change Phase Mixtures of Phases: Solutions, Suspensions, Emulsions, Gels, Foams Micrographs of whipped cream courtesy of H.D. Goff and A.K. Smith, University of Guelph. Diagram of cheesemaking, created by Soyoung Scanlan, Andante Dairy, and reprinted by permission. Micrograph of egg yolk from C.M. Chang, W.D. Powrie, and O. Fennema, Microstructure of egg yolk. Journal of Food Science 42 (1977): 1193–1200. Reprinted with permission. Excerpts from The Viandier of Taillevent, translated and edited by Terence Scully. Copyright © 1988 by the University of Ottawa Press (Web site: www.uopress.uottawa.ca). Reprinted with permission. “The Rage of Achilles” by Homer, from The Iliad by Homer, translated by Robert Fagles, copyright © 1990 by Robert Fagles. Used by permission of Viking Penguin, a division of Penguin Group (USA) Inc. Micrographs of meat fibers and oil droplets from Palmer, Helen Hanson; Osman, Elizabeth; Campbell, Ada Marie; Bowers, Jane; Drahn, Marcia; Palumbo, Mary; Jacobson, Marion; Charley, Helen G.; Berkeley, Selma; Food Theory and Applications, 1st edition, copyright ©1986. Reprinted by permission of Pearson Education, Inc., Upper Saddle River, NJ. Micrograph of wheat grain courtesy of Ann Hirsch. Flour micrographs from R.C. Hoseney and P.A. Seib, Structural differences in hard and soft wheats. Bakers Digest 47 (1973): 26–28. Reprinted by permission. Micrographs of gluten from J.E. Bernardin and D.D. Kasarda, The microstructure of wheat protein fibrils. Cereal Chemistry 40(1973): 735–45. Reprinted by permission. Excerpt from “Ode to Bing ” from Pasta: The Story of a Universal Food by Silvano Serventi and Françoise Sabban, translated by Antony Shugaar. Copyright © 2002 Columbia University Press. Reprinted with permission of the publisher. Excerpt from Moretum, translated by E.J. Kenney. Copyright © 1984 E.J. Kenney. Reprinted with permission of Gerald Duckworth and Co., Ltd. Micrographs of starch granules from B.S. Miller, R.I. Derby, and H.B. Trimbo, A pictorial explanation for the increase in viscosity of a heated wheat starch-water suspension. Cereal Chemistry 50(1973): 271–80. Reprinted by permission. Micrograph of oil droplets from C.M. Chang, W.D. Powrie, and O. Fennema, Electron microscopy of mayonnaise. Canadian Institute of Food Science and Technology Journal 5 (1972): 134–37. Reprinted by permission. Excerpt from Hymn to Ninkasi, English translation by Miguel Civil. http://oi.uchicago.edu/OI/IS/CIVIL/NN_FAL91/NN_Fal91_hymn.html. Copyright © 2002 Oriental Institute, University of Chicago. Reprinted courtesy of the Oriental Institute of the University of Chicago. Micrograph of yeast courtesy of Alastain Pringle, Research Director, Anheuser Busch Inc.

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