Madrid · A Traveller's Reader by Thomas, Hugh -- Read -- Imperial Library of Trantor

Index

Title Copyright Contents Illustrations Acknowledgements Map of the city Introduction Arrival in Madrid

Differing Views of the Approaches

1 Saint-Simon (1721) 2 Casanova (1767) 3 M.J. Quin (1822) 4 The Marquis de Custine (1830) 5 Edmondo de Amicis (1869) 6 Nina Epton (c. 1950)

General Impressions

7 Sir Richard Wynn (1623) 8 Alexander Stanhope (1679): the mule-trains from the Americas 9 Entry of allied troops (1706) 10 Entry of Charles of Habsburg (1710) 11 Napoleon I to his brother King Joseph Bonaparte (1809) 12 Joseph Bonaparte opposes force (1810) 13 A British military surgeon’s enthusiasm (1812) 14 Wellington’s letters (1812) 15 Wellington’s declarations to Stanhope (1836) 16 George Borrow (1836) 17 ‘Count Paul Vasili’ (1886) 18 Ramon y Cajal (c. 1900) 19 Arturo Barea (c. 1920) 20 Manuel Azaüa’s scepticism (c. 1920) 21 Ernest Hemingway (c. 1930)

Madrid

The Streets

22 The complaints of Camillo Borghese (1594) 23 Sir Richard Wynn (1623) 24 Bertaut (1664) 25 Beaumarchais reports on the effects of Charles Ill’s ‘clean air’ policy (1764) 26 Henry Inglis (1830) 27 Marquis de Custine (1831) 28 Théophile Gautier (1840) 29 Alexandre Dumas, père (1846) 30 De Amicis on serenos (1869) 31 Perez Galdos on the quartier near Santo Domingo el Real (1884) 32 Arturo Barea’s childhood games

Alcalá

33 The French army enters Madrid (1808) – General Bigarré 34 Henry Inglis (1830) 35 George Borrow (1836) 36 1898: the news of the catastrophe

Arenal

37 Pío Baroja (1906)

Caballero de Gracia

38 The murder of Ascham (Clarendon 1650)

Calle de Fuencarral

39 Foundation of Anarcho-Sindicalism: Anselmo Lorenzo (1868)

Calle Marqués de Cubas

40 The murder of Prim (1870)

Calle Mayor

41 The murder of Escobedo in 1576 (Gregorio Marañón) 42 An attempt on King Alfonso XIII (1906)

Paseo del Prado

43 View in 1543 (Pedro de Medina) 44 Philip II received in the Prado (1569) 45 The Prince of Wales woos the Infanta María (1623) 46 Quevedo’s view (1630) 47 Wellington in the Prado (1812) 48 Gautier (1840) 107 49 Perez Galdós’s view through the eyes of Rosalía Bringas (late nineteenth century) 50 Songs heard by Pío Baroja (c. 1900)

Puerta del Sol

51 Royal decree, 28 July 1541 52 The murder of the Conde de Villamediana (Lope de Vega, 1622) 53 The Habsburg candidate’s portrait burnt (1706) 54 Gil Blas in the Puerta del Sol (c. 1715) 55 The battle of 2 May 1808: Pérez Galdós’s description 56 Murat to Napoleon 1, 2 May 1808 57 George Borrow sees the ‘Revolution of La Granja’ (1836) 58 Perez Galdos’s memories (c. 1865) 59 De Amicis’s impression (1870) 60 A Communist’s surprise: M.N. Roy (1921) 61 The fall of the monarchy: Miguel Maura (1931) 62 An Anarchist’s plans: Ramon Sender (c. 1933) 63 Post-war impressions: V.S. Prichett (c. 1950)

Plaza Mayor

64 The execution of D. Rodrigo Calderón (1621) 65 A bull-fight (Clarendon, 1650) 66 A Lrench ambassador’s wife’s view of the auto de fe of 1680 67 Saint-Simon’s visit (1721) 68 An auto de fe in the eighteenth century 69 Description of the fiesta upon the occasion of Charles Ill’s public entry into the capital, 15 July 1760 70 The battle of July 1822 71 Alexandre Dumas, 1846

Chamartín

72 Napoleon’s stay (1808) 73 The French fail to impress the madrileños (1808) 74 Napoleon asks what possesses the Spanish people (1808) 75 Napoleon leaves (1808): letter to the Empress Josephine in Paris

Lavapiés

76 Mañolería (Mesonero Romanos) 77 Gautier meets the last mañola (c. 1840) 78 Barea (1920)

Other Squares

79 El Rastro: Baroja (1910) 80 La Moncloa: Azaña’s regrets (c. 1928) 81 Plaza de la Cebada: the Marquis de Custine attends an execution (1831) 82 Plaza de Oriente: a corrida in 1455 (Mesonero Romanos’s description) 83 Plaza de la Paja: a speech of Cardinal Ximénez (1516) 84 Plaza de Santa Ana: Mérimée takes leave of the Condesa de Montijo (1840)

The Houses

85 Seventeenth-century houses (according to Angel Fernández de los Ríos) 86 An English Embassy of the seventeenth century (Clarendon, 1650) 87 Calle Clavel (1802) 88 Inglis (1830) 89 Gautier’s observations (1840)

Hotels, Cafés, Tertulias

90 A bottleshop of the eighteenth century: Gil Blas 91 Alexandre Dumas père’s hotel, 1846 92 Borrow in a café (1836) 93 Gautier’s visit to the cafés (1840) 94 De Amicis at the Café Fornos (1870) 95 Ramon y Cajal at the Café Suizo (c. 1900) 96 Pre-war tertulias (c. 1930): Agustín de Foxa 97 Ritz Hotel: Salvador Dalí’s visit

Palaces

98 Palacio de Alba: St Teresa rebukes the King (1569) 99 Palacio de Buenavista: the Duquesa de Alba’s ball (1790) 100 Palacio de Buenavista: the death of the thirteenth Duquesa de Alba (1804) – the one tribute 101 Palacio de Liria (Berwick): Joseph Townsend (1786) 102 Palacio del Infantado: Lady Holland’s visit 103 Palacio de Medinaceli (1803) 104 Palacio de Medinaceli: fighting around the palace in 1808 (the account of Savary)

Royal Palace – Alcázar

105 A visit of French ambassadors to the court of Juan II in Madrid in the fifteenth century: Mesonero Romanos 106 The Comuneros Revolt (Sandoval, 1520) 107 King François I visited by Emperor Charles V (1525) 108 King François I tries to escape dressed as a black slave (1525) 109 Arrest of Don Carlos (1568) 110 The death of Queen Elizabeth of Valois 111 A Nuncio’s visit: Camillo Borghese (1593) 112 The Prince of Wales’s visit (1623) 113 Letter of the Conde Duque de Olivares to Rubens (1628) 114 Rubens reports on his stay (1628) 224 115 Antoine, Maréchal-duc de Gramont, comes to negotiate a marriage (1659) 116 A royal wet-nurse’s self-justification (seventeenth century) 117 Verse addressed to María Luisa, Queen of Spain, encouraging her to give birth 118 Saint-Simon’s visit to King Philip V (1721)

Royal Palace – ‘New’ Palace

119 Beckford’s visit (1787) 120 Lady Holland’s visit (1803) 121 Napoleon before the portrait of Philip II 122 Quin’s visit (1821) 123 Inglis and Don Carlos (1830) 124 George Borrow and Mendizabal (1836) 125 Odd uses of the Royal Palace (Pérez Galdos) 126 News of the revolution of 1868: Pérez Galdos recalls the mood 127 The Infanta Eulalia is pleased (1876) 128 Alfonso XIII: Harold Nicolson (1911)

Palacio del Buen Retiro

129 Olivares describes the palace in a letter to Juan Chumacero (c. 1635) 130 French impressions in 1659 (Bertaut) 131 The French ambassadress visits the Retiro in 1679 (Marquise de Villars) 132 Lady Holland’s visit (1804) 133 Napoleon to Maréchal Berthier (1808) 134 Henry Inglis sees Ferdinand VII (1831) 135 Baroja recalls la belle époque c. 1897

The Ateneo

136 Perez Galdos

Casa de Cisneros

137 The torture of Antonio Pérez in 1590 (Marañón)

Casa de la Villa

138 A ball for Wellington (1812)

The Cortes Españolas

139 De Amicis (1870) 140 General Pavía’s coup (3 January 1874)

La Residencia de Estudiantes

141 1917-1925: Buñuel

Museo del Prado

142 Richard Ford (1830) 143 Manet (1865) 144 Meier-Graefe (c. 1906) 145 Trotsky (1916)

Prison

146 Brunel (1655) 147 Casanova (1767) 148 Trotsky (1916)

Life, Customs and Morals in Madrid

Men and Women – Manners

149 Sir Richard Wynn’s view of Spanish women (1623) 150 A French view of Spanish women in 1655 (Brunel) 151 Saint-Simon calls on a marquesa (1722) 152 Beaumarchais has his revenge on José de Clavijo for deceiving his sister (1764) 153 Alfieri’s month in Madrid (1769) 154 Advice on love (Ramon de la Cruz, 1780) 155 Calling on a lady (Townsend, 1786) 156 Instructions to a cortejo by a lady (Cadalso)

Dress

157 A Nuncio’s thoughts (Camillo Borghese, 1594) 158 Sir Richard Wynn’s judgements (1623) 159 Brunel (1655) 160 The ban on the large cape – the royal ordinance (1767) 161 Inglis and the fashions (1831) 162 The Marquis de Custine’s view (1831) 163 De Amicis (1869) 164 Perez Galdos (c. 1870) 165 The cape in the twentieth century: Nina Epton 317

Various Customs

166 Advice to writers (1787): anonymous satire 167 Ancestors (Blanco White, c. 1820) 168 Cemeteries (Baroja, c. 1900) 169 The cost of portraits by Velazquez: Fulvio Teste (1639) 170 Dances: bolero, fandango (Townsend, 1786) 171 Dinners: with Floridablanca (Townsend, 1786) 172 Funerals: according to E. Clarke (1760) 173 Gambling: Beaumarchais (1764) 174 Gambling: Beckford (1788) 175 Grandees of Spain: 1878 (Infanta Paz) 176 Masters and servants: as seen in Ramón de la Cruz’s sainetes (eighteenth century) 177 Nobility: the Duke of Wellington (1836) 178 Tertulias: Gautier’s view (1840) 179 A thank-you letter of Goya’s (1800) 180 Tobacco and chocolate: Saint-Simon (1722) 181 Walking: Inglis (1830)

The Church

182 Santo Domingo: St Dominic’s letter (1220) 183 San Francisco: the Inquisition discusses the Moorish problem (1525) 184 San Francisco: the Royal Confessors (Sobieski, c. 1613) 185 Encarnacion Benita, Convento (San Placido): Philip IV’s passion for a nun (c. 1625) 186 Convento of the Capuchin friars (Calle de las Infantas): the persecution of the ‘New Christians’ (1635) 187 The Atocha: Saint-Simon (1722) 188 The Church in the streets (E. Clarke, 1762) 189 The case of Olavide before the Inquisition (Bourgoing, 1786) 190 Autos de fe in the eighteenth century (1784) 191 The case against the celibacy of the clergy (Townsend, 1786) 192 Colegio de San Isidro: ‘Cathedral Church’ (1809) 193 A Spanish catechism (1808) 194 A nun takes her vows in the Descalzas Reales (Inglis, 1830) 195 The Marquis de Custine’s judgements (1831)

Processions and Fiestas

196 Carnival (Quin, 1821) 197 Holy Week: the Moroccan ambassador (1690) 198 Holy Week: Custine’s record (1831) 199 San Isidro: Sir Richard Wynn at the first celebration (15 May 1623) 200 San Isidro: Richard Ford in the nineteenth century 201 San Antonio de la Florida: the fiesta (13 June) in the mid-twentieth century (Nina Epton) 202 Corpus Christi: Gautier (1840) 203 Christmas (Quin, 1822) 204 Beaumarchais’ Christmas (1764)

Bull-fights

205 On the way to the bull-fight: Ford (1840s) 206 Lady Holland’s visit to the Madrid bull-ring (1803) 207 Prosper Mérimée’s description (1830)

Theatres

208 A play in the Alcázar: Sir Richard Wynn (1623) 209 The two theatres of Madrid in the 1650s (Brunel, 1665) 210 An auto sacramental (1762) 211 The Spanish theatre seen by an Englishman (E. Clarke, 1762) 212 Beaumarchais’ description to the Duc de la Vallière (24 December 1764) 213 A masked ball in the Caños del Peral (Casanova, 1767) 214 Lady Holland’s visit to the Canos del Peral (1803) 215 Inglis at the Principe (1830) 216 De Amicis sees the Zarzuela (1869) 217 The Teatro Real at the height of the Regency (Baroja, c. 1897) 218 Harold Acton sees ‘La Cordobesita’ in the 1920s

The Approaches to Madrid

219 Ramón y Cajal (c. 1900) 220 The Manzanares: Tirso de Molina (c. 1610) 221 The Manzanares: the Marquise de Villars (1679) 222 The Manzanares: Charles Stanhope (1699) 223 The Manzanares: British officers bathe during the Peninsular War (1812) 224 The Casa de Campo: two English impressions 225 The Pardo: Joseph Bonaparte’s letter of resignation to his brother (1809) 226 The Alameda de Osuna: Lady Holland (1803)

Select Bibliography Index

← Prev
Back
Next →

← Prev
Back
Next →