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Index
Cover Title Page Contents Copyright Epigraph Part I: Under the Wave at Waimea The Island of No Bad Days Epic Surf The Great Pacific Garbage Patch Drunk on the Road The Search for the Hundred-Foot Wave Portents Picking Up the Pieces Intrusions Repetitions Hapai Leftovers Under the Wave at Waimea Part II: The History of a Hero Haole—The Scar Special Forces The Mark of the Beast Father Figures Adrift Rehearsals Wipeout Welcome to the Wave Competition A Rescue Surf Bunnies The Year of the Rat Naming a Wave A House at Jocko’s “I Want Your Life” Mr. Joe Reality Check The Ultimate Wave The Kiss of Life Part III: The Paddle-Out Lies “Unidentified Male” Kapu Pau Unclaimed Remains Paperwork Floristan The Leeward Side A Dog Off His Leash A Protected Class Smack The Release The Paddle-Out at Waimea An Excerpt from THE BAD ANGEL BROTHERS
1: The Rejection Ritual
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