The Mountaineering Handbook by Connally, Craig -- Read -- Imperial Library of Trantor

Index

Cover Page The Mountaineering Handbook: Modern Tools and Techniques That Will Take You to the Top Copyright Page Dedication Contents PART 1 Mountaineering

1. INTRODUCTION

Who’s It For?

2. LET’S GO CLIMBING TOGETHER

Get Your Head Ready Get Your Skills Ready Fast and Light Get Your Body Ready Get Your Gear Ready Get Started Base Camp The Alpine Start The Approach The Climb Onto the Rock Retreat Be Resourceful Be Tough Have Fun

PART 2 The Approach

3. MOVING FAST ON THE TRAIL

On the Approach On the Climb

4. WILDERNESS NAVIGATION

Navigation with Maps Handy Navigation Features Resorting to Your Compass Altimeters New-School Mapping GPS and UTM Estimating Travel Time Lost Another Way of Navigating

5. MOUNTAIN HAZARDS

Rockfall and Icefall Rain River Crossings Lightning Avalanche Altitude Heat and Cold Sun and UV

6. MOUNTAIN WEATHER

What You Already Know Clouding the Picture Climatology Predicting Mountain Weather Using Local Observations Lifting the Fog

7. THE ALPINE START

Why Start Early Morning Begins at Sundown Turning Off the Lights The Dread Bivouac

PART 3 Rock

8. CLIMB RATING SYSTEMS

Climb with Class The YDS Ice with That? Making the Grade What Does All This Mean to Mountaineers?

9. YOUR CLIMBING ROPE

The Basics Single, Half, Twin What Specs Are Unimportant? What Specs Matter? Recommendations for Mountaineering Ropes Handling and Caring for Your Rope

10. EQUIPMENT FOR ROCK CLIMBING

Climbing Harness Belay/Rappel Brakes Helmet Carabiners Runners and Slings Cordelette Protection Hardware Nut Tool Rap Ring Knife

11. CLIMBING FORCES

Physics Static Forces Dynamic Forces and Leader Falls Real-World Influences on Fall Forces Strength of Safety-System Components Force Multiplication

12. ANCHORS

Tying In Simple Anchors Complex Anchors What’s a Mountaineer to Do?

13. RAPPELLING

Get Connected Rappel Anchors Getting Started Joining Two Ropes for Rappelling Final Preparations Self-Belay While Rappelling Cast Off As You Alight Last Is Best Freeing a Stuck Rope

14. CLIMBING ON ROCK

Preliminaries Belaying the Leader Leading Climbing Placing Pro Belaying the Second Seconding Changeover Moving Fast on Rock

PART 4 Snow and Ice

15. EQUIPMENT FOR SNOW AND ICE CLIMBING

Mountaineering Ax Crampons Snowshoes Trekking Poles Pulkke Goggles Shovel Protection Hardware and Personal Gear

16. CLIMBING SNOW AND ICE

Ascending Snow Crampon Techniques Mountaineering Ax Techniques Descending Roped Travel on Snow Climbing with Protection Moving Fast on Snow Climbing Ice

PART 5 Base Camp Basics

17. LIGHTWEIGHT MOUNTAINEERING

Step Lightly

18. EQUIPMENT FOR BASE CAMP

Boots and Shoes Backpacks Clothing Systems Shelter Systems Sleeping Systems Fuel and Stoves Ten Essentials Rethought for Mountaineering First-Aid Kit Non-Essentials Ten Essentials for Cooking Water Purification

19. PERFORMANCE NUTRITION FOR MOUNTAINEERS

Calorie Consumption Partial Repletion Is Best Hydration Electrolyte Repletion Calories on the Go Throwing Fat on the Fire Protein—You Eat What You Are Reality Nutrition and Altitude A Dog’s Breakfast Nutrition on the Go Get Started as Soon as You Stop Repletion Starts with Water Then Total Calories Reality Dining—Again Catching Up on Electrolytes Nutritional Supplements Sports Supplements Vegetarian Mountaineers

20. TRAINING FOR MOUNTAINEERING

Follow the Training Advice of German Existential Philosophers VO2max—The Measure of Aerobic Fitness Percentage of VO2max—The Measure of Your Personal Aerobic Exercise Intensity Heart Rate—The Measure for Most of Us How Long Does Training Take? At What Intensity Should I Train? What Aerobic Exercises Work for Mountaineers? Strength Training Persistence Mental Training

21. WILDERNESS FIRST AID

Wilderness First-Aid Instruction First-Aid Kit Shocking Takeaway Example Psychological First Aid

22. PROTECTING THE NATURAL ENVIRONMENT

Leave No Trace Access Be Like Ed

PART 6 Advanced Techniques

23. LIGHTWEIGHT ROPES

Rappelling Belaying the Leader on a Thin Rope Belaying the Second Releasing an Autoblock

24. ROPED PARTIES

Simul-Climbing Fixed Ropes Rappelling by a Group

25. SELF-RESCUE

Think Ahead Plan Your Escape Ascending Pulley Systems Assisted Descending Evacuation

26. GLACIER TRAVEL AND CREVASSE RESCUE

How They Get That Way Organizing the Roped Team Off We Go Safe Camping When Luck Runs Out

PART 7 The Human Dimensions of Mountaineering

27. HUMAN FACTORS AND NOT TECHNICAL FACTORS?

Risk Management and Decision Making Controlling Fear Leadership Emergency Response

28. WHY DO WE DO IT?

Travel Solo Travel with Charlie

Appendices

APPENDIX A ADDITIONAL SKILLS APPENDIX B RESOURCES APPENDIX C GLOSSARY

INDEX

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