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Index
Cover
Title Page
Copyright
Contents
The Perfect Publican
Recipe Contents
Introduction
The Publican Pantry
To the Mighty Vegetable
Barbecued Carrots
Jared Van Camp’s Bread-and-Butter Pickles
Mom’s Icebox Tomatoes
Elotes
Radishes with Red Lentil Falafel, Yogurt, and Spiced Honey
Roasted Beets with Green Garlic Labneh
Baby Turnips and Chocolate Persimmon Salad with Cosmo’s Magic Bacon Dressing
Fried Sweet Potatoes with Hazelnut Mayo and Shabazi Vinaigrette
Frites (With an Egg on Top)
Baby Squash with Chickpea Pesto
Maple-Roasted Winter Squash with Piri-Piri Sauce
Cauliflower Caponata
Fava Beans, English Peas, and Green Garlic Salsa Verde with Burrata
Peaches, Grilled Green Beans, and White Balsamic Dressing with Burrata
Grilled Cucumbers and Zhoug with Burrata
Brussels Sprouts, Pear, Fried Shallot, and Balsamic Onion with Burrata
Alm Salad
Little Gem Salad
Chicories with Pecorino and Creamy Anchovy Vinaigrette
Asparagus and Avocado Salad with Fried Quinoa and Flaxseed Vinaigrette
Honeycrisp Apple and Kohlrabi Salad with Burnt Chile Chimichurri
Plum and Dandelion Greens Salad with Urfa Pepper Vinaigrette
To Bivalves, Mollusks, and Those Who Shell Before Us
Shrimp Ceviche with the Best Homemade Crackers
Mussels in Sour Beer
The Publican Fish Fry
Roasted Razor Clams with Anchovy-Pimentón Butter
Trey’s Ashes Clam Boil
Scallops with Beef Daube, Strawberries, and Fava Beans
Pan-Roasted Soft-Shell Crab in Green Chile Sauce
Dungeness Crab and Curried Potatoes
Sardinian Seafood Stew
To Noble Creatures of the Sea and the Much Maligned
Tuna Crudo with Preserved Mushrooms
Yellowtail Escabeche with Apricots
Squid and Blood Sausage
Braised Octopus “Ribolitta”
Swordfish and Butternut Squash in Acqua Pazza
Grilled Sardines
Sand Dabs with Tangerine Butter
Mackerel and Mayo with Grilled Chicories
Dover Sole with Caper Berries and Moscatel Vinegar
Grilled Sturgeon and Brown Butter
Tokyo-Style Trout with Publican Spice
To the Swine, Bovine, and Particularly Fowl
Publican Chicken
Dry-Aged Duck Breast with Pumpkin Seed Vinaigrette
Ode to Chef David Cassoulet
Pork Country Ribs with Watermelon and Sungold Salad
Pork Loin en Tonnato
Pork Belly with Calabrian Chile Glaze
Porchetta with Chicories
Pork Shoulder and White Grits
Ham Chop in Hay
Lamb Leg “Ham Steaks” with Shelling Beans
Flap Steak with Strawberries, Mint, and Feta
To the Mad Butcher: Charcuterie and Sausages
Mettwurst
Morteau
Toulouse Sausage
Boudin Noir (Blood Sausage)
Publican Bacon
Pancetta
Guanciale
Spicy Coppa Salami
Lonza Salami
Pork and Duck Rillettes
Chicken Liver Pâté
Harissa Pâté
Headcheese
Pork Pies
To What’s Left Behind: Offal, Scraps, and Leftover Bits
Smoked Trout Roe
Pork Rinds with Poof Powder
Grilled Fish Collar with Roasted Garlic Marinade and Lemon
Doug Bigwood’s Salmon Frames
Beef Heart and Tuna Tartare with Chermoula
Grilled Duck Hearts with Homemade Butter Cheese and Pepper Jelly
Fried Pig Brains with Gooseberry Salsa Verde
Sweetbreads with Palm Sugar Butter
Blood Pasta with Sea Beans, Fava Beans, and Mussels
Barbecued Tripe with Clams
To Yeast and Flour: Bread and Everything on It
Sourdough Starter
Spence Sourdough
Hemp Seed Ciabatta
1979 Multigrain
Sesame-Semolina Pugliese
Cultured Butter
Date Muhammara
Pimiento Cheese
Smoked Eggplant Conserva
Chickpea Hummus
Pan-Roasted Mushroom and Turnip Fettuntas
Cured Sardine Fettuntas
Pickled Beef Tongue Fettuntas
Smoked Fish Toasts with Deviled Egg Puree
Bone Marrow Toasts
The Publican Waffle with Honey Butter
Sources
Acknowledgments
Index
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