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Index
Preface by John Long . . . . . .
Introduction by Sam George . . . . .
Big Wave Timeline xx . . . . . . . . . . . . i i i
as told by Shane Dorian, Mark Healey, and Dave Wassell . . . .
Surf Like Jay: Moriarty (1978-20( by Ben Marcus . . . . . . 17
by
. . . . . . . . . . . . 53
Surviving December 1st, by Ted Gugelyk . .
Beyond the as told by Greg Noll . . .
by Sam George . . . . .
Tangled Up in as told by Maya Gabeira . . . 103
Hammer by Evan Slater . . . . . . . . 113
Spirit of the Foals by Leonard Doyle . . .
Beneath the by Chris Dixon . . . . . . . 135
Reflections on by Brock Little . . . . . . 155
Dungeons by Rusty Long . . . . . . . . 163
by Tony Harrington . . . . . . . . 173
gars on the North Shore by Sam George . . . . . . . . . . . . 183
Pat Curren Coffee by Mike Davis . . .
Dislocated: Mavericks by Taylor Paul . . . . 225
if Garrett by Kimball Taylor . . . . . . . . . . . 235
The by Evan Slater . . . . . . . 251
Aamion by Daniel Duane. . . 259
as told by Mike Parsons and Greg Long . . . . . .
High Noon at by Chris Dixon 285 . . . . .
The Heart of the as told by Vincent Lartizen . . 295
Sources . . . . . . .
Acknowledgments . . . . . .
About the Editors . . . . . .
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