Chapter 4

Tools

All you really need to get started with knitting is some yarn and a couple of pointed sticks. I’ve been known, in an emergency knitting situation, to knit with two pencils. When you walk into a yarn shop, look at a catalog, or shop on the Internet, however, you find seemingly thousands of kinds of knitting needles and hundreds of small accessories with uses you can’t even imagine. So what do you really need?

Knitting Needles

Q: What types of needles are available, and when would I use them?

A: Knitting needles seem to be sold with more options than there are knitters on Earth. Choosing the right needle can be daunting when you’re presented with such a wide array of possibilities. Things to consider are needle type (straight, double-pointed, or circular), size, length, material, and shape. All of the information you need about the different types of needles is in the chart on the next page.

Q: How do I know what needle size to choose?

A: Needle size is given either as an arbitrary number in the US system (smaller numbers are for thinner needles) or as a millimeter measurement in the international system. Size refers to the thickness (diameter) of the needle. Thinner needles generally are used with finer yarn, fatter needles with thicker yarn. Like all knitting rules, however, this one is meant to be broken. Knit lace with a larger needle and very fine yarn or, to create a thicker fabric, choose thinner needles.

Pattern instructions include a recommended needle size and a gauge for each project. The right needle size to use is the one that gives you the correct gauge, and this may be different from the size recommended. If you’re not working from a pattern, then refer to the yarn label for a recommendation on needle size. Work a sample on that size needle, and see if you like the fabric. If the fabric is too loose, use a smaller needle. If it’s too tight or stiff, use a bigger needle.

See also: Knitting Needle Sizes and Chapter 8, Circular Knitting

Knitting Needle Know-How

Q: What if the ball band doesn’t suggest a needle size?

A: If the ball band gives you no hints, then use a needle gauge to determine needle size. Double the yarn, and hold it across the holes in the gauge. Try using the needle size of the hole that the doubled yarn just covers.

estimating needle size

See also: Gauge, Yarn Labels, and Rulers and Gauges

Knitting Needle Sizes

Q: How do I know what length needle to choose?

A: Your knitting pattern should provide guidance if the length of the needles is important. Knitting needles range from 5" double-pointed needles to circular needles that are 60" or even longer. Whether you are using single points, double points, or circular needles, choose a length that will be comfortable for your project. Here are some hints:

• If there are too many stitches squeezed onto the needle, it can be difficult to work and to catch mistakes.
• If there are too few stitches on a circular needle, it can be difficult to slide them up onto the points and to pass them from one point to the other as you work. It may also change your gauge, forcing you to knit more loosely. With circular needles used conventionally (not Magic Loop or two circular needles), it’s important that the needle be shorter than the circumference of the knitting.
• When using two circular needles to make a small tube, you have a lot of leeway — each needle just needs to be longer than half the circumference of the knitting.
• When using two or more circular needles for a very large tube, you also have a lot of flexibility: if the combined length of the needles is longer than the total circumference, you’ll be able to lay the knitting flat to measure it, or even try it on; if the length of the needles is shorter, the knitting will be bunched up a little, but it will still be easy to work.
• For Magic Loop, the needle should be significantly longer than the small tube you’re planning to make. How much longer is a matter of personal preference, depending on how you hold your needles, how long the rigid points are, and the flexibility of the cable. Generally, for Magic Loop, lengths of 30"–48" work best.

Q: My local stores carry metal, plastic, and wood ­needles. Which kind is best?

A: Knitting needles are available in all sorts of materials, but you may find only a limited selection in smaller knitting shops and large craft chains:

• Metal choices include stainless steel, aluminum, and nickel-plated brass, both coated and polished.
• Wood needles are made from walnut, birch, rosewood, ebony, and mahogany. Bamboo needles are included in this classification.
• Synthetic materials and composites include plastic, nylon, casein, and cellulose acetate.

Choosing the material you like best is simply a matter of personal preference. You may find that different kinds of yarn knit up more easily on a particular type of needle. The comments in the chart below come from my own experience, as well as that of other knitters.

Knitting Needle Materials

Metal

PROS

• Good if you knit tightly or for yarns that tend to stick to the needles, because stitches slide easily.
• Very durable.
• Not usually chewed by puppies or kittens.

CONS

• Too slippery if you knit loosely or for slippery yarns.
• Click while knitting; clang when dropped on a hard surface.
• Feel cold, can be heavy, and are not flexible — unpleasant features if you have arthritis or other hand problems.
• Some are very shiny, making it difficult to see if your vision is poor or if glare bothers you.

Wood

PROS

• Especially good for lace, circular knitting on double-pointed needles, and slippery yarns.
• Provides more friction than metal, so stitches don’t slip off, and needles don’t fall out of the knitting.
• Recommended for beginners and for working complicated patterns.
• Feel warm, are lightweight, sound quiet.
• Somewhat flexible, so good for people with arthritis or other hand problems.
• Dark woods make it easy to see when knitting light yarns.

CONS

• Tend to break more easily than metal needles, especially in very thin sizes; bamboo is more resilient than wood.
• Can develop splinters (easily fixed with a little sandpaper).
• May become slightly curved with use (usability is not affected).
• Dark wood may make it difficult to see when knitting dark yarns.
• Easily destroyed by puppies and kittens, which like to chew them.

Plastic & Nylon

PROS

• Flexible.
• Not easily broken.
• Quiet and lightweight.
• Come in a range of colors.

CONS

• May be hard to use with cotton yarns, which sometimes stick to them.
• May become curved over time with use (usability is not affected).

Casein

PROS

• Smoother than wood but not as slippery as metal, so a good compromise.
• Feel warm, are lightweight, sound quiet.
• Come in a range of colors.

CONS

• Not as widely available as metal, wood, and plastic.
• May become curved over time (usability is not affected).
• Some people report a strong chemical smell if the needles get wet.
• Very attractive to some pets because they’re made from milk protein.

Cellulose Acetate

PROS

• Slightly flexible.
• Not easily broken.
• Quiet.
• Come in a range of colors.

CONS

• Larger sizes may be hollow with a reinforcing wire inside, which may jangle annoyingly when in use.

Q: Aren’t all knitting needles shaped the same: long and pointy?

A: No. The tips of the needles are shaped differently. For some knitters, the shape of the points is the most important detail. Some are round and blunt, some long and tapered, and others concave. A few are so pointy they may prick your fingertips. If you knit firmly or work pattern stitches like cables or lace that involve a lot of stitch manipulation, you’ll probably prefer longer, tapered points. If you knit more loosely or stick to plain knitting, you may prefer blunter tips. If you tend to help the needles along by pushing the points through stitches with your fingertips, avoid sharp-tipped needles.

Q: The cables on circular needles seem to vary a lot. What difference does the cable make?

A: The cables on some old circulars are metal, while newer circulars have cables of plastic, nylon, or another manmade material. Some are thin monofilament, while others are thicker plastic tubes like tiny hoses. Nylon and plastic cables become brittle after many years of service and can crack. If you knit firmly, it can be difficult to slide your stitches along the thicker plastic tubes. In some brands, the cable connects to the needle points with a little bump, particularly on bamboo or wood needles with nylon cables. Although the bump looks innocuous, trying to slide the stitches over it can be annoying. Look for circular needles with very smooth joins.

Q: Can I switch needles in the middle of a project?

A: Yes, you can. In fact, in some projects you’ll have to change needles. For example, you start a hat at the bottom on a 16"-long circular needle, but when you decrease for the crown you have fewer stitches and must switch to double-pointed needles to finish the hat. Be aware, though, that you will not necessarily get the same gauge on two different needles of the same size. Use a needle gauge to check your needles for consistency. Any of these may be the cause of a problem:

• Needle material. You may find that you knit more tightly on slippery metal needles, so the stitches are smaller than when knitting the same yarn on wood needles of the same size.
• Manufacturer. Needles from different manufacturers may vary in diameter, even if the packaging says they are identical.
• Age. Be particularly suspicious of old needles inherited from other knitters. In the past, needles were not always produced in standard sizes, and different countries used different sizing schemes. Your grandmother’s size 8 may not be the same as a current size 8.

See also: Rulers and Gauges

Q: I’m using a circular needle, and the cable curls so much it’s really annoying. How can I straighten out the cable?

A: Once the needle is full of stitches and you’ve knit a couple of inches, the weight of the knitting usually brings a kinky cable under control. You can also relax the cable by dipping it briefly in a pan of boiling water. You can purchase a hanging storage case for your circular needles, which allows them to dangle freely, without being coiled up. Some knitters store their circular needles on skirt hangers, securing the cables with the two clips and leaving the points hanging. Both methods of storage keep the cables relaxed and kink free.

Q: If I lose a needle, do I have to buy a whole new set, or can I replace just one?

A: Some needle manufacturers and distributors will replace a single needle, especially if it’s one of a set, either for free or for very low cost. You can find corporate contact information on the packaging that the needles came in, in advertisements in knitting magazines, and on the Internet. If these resources don’t turn up a street address, phone number, or e-mail address, have a retailer who sells the product put you in contact with the company or its sales representative.

Q: If my metal needles get rough, can I fix them?

A: You can use a fine metal file to smooth the rough places, but the finish of the needle in that spot may continue to annoy you afterward. To polish the metal after sanding, try rubbing it with a piece of wax paper.

Q: If my needles feel sticky, can I correct this?

A: First, clean them. Wash plastic, nylon, or metal needles with a little soap and water and dry them thoroughly. Expose wood needles to as little water as possible; just wipe them off with a damp cloth and dry them immediately. If they still don’t feel clean, go over them lightly with fine sandpaper or fine steel wool. An old set of steel needles that are a little rusty may benefit from fine steel wool. Avoid buffing any area that doesn’t need it, because it will roughen the finish. If the needles don’t seem as smooth as in the past, rub them with a piece of wax paper.

Q: Can I fix wood needles that get rough or splinter?

A: Yes. Use fine sandpaper or an emery board to smooth the problem spot, then polish it with wax paper.

Q: I’m tired of never having exactly the right needle, so I’m thinking of buying an interchangeable circular needle set. Which kind is the best?

A: Many interchangeable needle sets are available, with metal needle tips, plastic tips, and a variety of bamboo and wooden tips. The cables connect in various ways. Some require a locking tool, while others screw in (some of these come with accessories to help you tighten them). One set has a simple twist-and-lock mechanism. Anything that screws in can come unscrewed as you work, so look for long-threaded screws rather than short ones.

Cables for most sets are made of nylon, but some are metal coated with plastic or nylon. At least one version has cables made of tiny plastic tubes that resemble little hoses, which, if you are a firm knitter, you may find annoying to push your stitches along. Cables also vary in flexibility and in memory. Some are quite stiff and require constant pressure to flex them when working with a shorter length or Magic Loop. Others are so flexible that the weight of the knitting will bend them at a right angle to the tip. Those with a lot of memory, if stored coiled, will tend to kink up while you are using them.

Each set allows you to build needles in a variety of sizes and lengths. Sets vary most in the number of different size needles included. Some have a wide range of sizes (0 through 15), while others are limited to larger sizes (4 or 5 and up). Each set features several cables of different lengths, from 8" to 40", so that you can assemble whatever size and length needle you want. Some of the sets allow you to connect the cables to each other to make even longer needles. You can also attach a separate cable to each point, with a disk or bead at the other end of the cable, and use them as if they were straight, single-pointed needles.

Needle sets can be very expensive, so it’s best to try them out before you buy. Look for needles with tips shaped the way you prefer (some knitters prefer long tapered points while others prefer rounded points), in a material and with a finish you like (metal, plastic, and wood, all with various finishes, each provide a different level of friction), very smooth joins where the cable meets the tips, and cables with a flexibility that feels comfortable to you. If you plan to use your set to build short needles (16" or less), look for a set with short tips (about 3.5"), because longer tips will be impossible to use with the shortest cables. Sets where you can purchase replacement and extra parts separately are also very desirable.

See here for more on needle tips.

There’s More to Knitting than Needles

Q What is a cable needle? Which kind is best?

A: Cable needles are used as temporary holders for some of the stitches while the cable is being crossed. They come in several styles: metal gull wings with a curve at the center, metal J-shaped hooks, straight wood needles with ridges or slightly thicker ends to keep the stitches from falling off, and even a cable thimble which fits onto the tip of your finger so you don’t have to hold onto a separate needle. The shape you choose is a matter of personal preference. Cable needles come in several thicknesses. Use one that is the same diameter or smaller than the needles for your project. In a pinch, good substitutes are a short, double-pointed needle, a crochet hook, a round toothpick (but you may need to sand it smooth), a straightened paper clip, or anything that’s thin enough with a point at both ends. (For a source for cable thimbles, see Lacis, in Resources)

cable needles

Q: Do I need a knitting bag?

A: A bag for your knitting keeps your project clean and all your tools, materials, and instructions together. You can get a top-of-the-line knitting bag with all the bells and whistles: pockets, coordinating needle and accessory cases, hooks for your keys, and features you can’t even begin to imagine. Or you can use a 2-gallon ziplock plastic bag. There are, of course, other options in between, like all the promotional tote bags from conferences that grow in a pile on a shelf in your closet.

The top-of-the-line bags have the advantage of keeping your knitting supplies organized and making it easy to carry everything you need with you. If you work on only one project at a time, this may be the way to go. If you have multiple projects and tend to work on them at home, ziplock bags may be the low-end solution. They’re cheap and can be sealed to protect against moths and marauding cats. Whatever kind of bag you choose, you may want to include a small case, such as an eyeglass case or a zippered toiletry bag, to hold tiny accessories that tend to get lost at the bottom of the bag.

Q: What should be in my bag?

A: Here’s what I keep in mine:

• Rulers and gauges. You’ll need a tape measure for measuring your knitting as you go, and a knitting gauge for checking needle sizes. Simply slip a needle into the knitting gauge holes; the smallest hole that it goes into indicates its size. If you are the independent sort of knitter who modifies patterns, a bendable ruler is useful. It bends neatly into curves and then holds its position, making it very handy for redesigning armholes and necklines.

  See also: Estimating needle size illustration of a needle gauge.

• Stitch markers. Place these rings on your needle to mark specific points in the row. Use small ones on thin needles and larger ones on thick needles. The soft rubber ones are less likely to pop off your needles and fly across the room than the hard plastic ones. Markers that open up (split markers, rings with overlapping ends, or locking markers, like short plastic safety pins) have the advantage that they can be added to your needle in the middle of the row or pinned to the knitted fabric itself. Beautiful beaded markers are also now available, and they don’t get lost as easily as the garden variety. You can substitute safety pins (ones without coils that catch in the yarn are made just for knitters), paper clips, a small loop of contrasting yarn, or even an earring.
• Stitch and row counters. These help you keep track of how many stitches you’ve increased or decreased, and how many rows you’ve completed. Tiny barrel-shaped row counters slip right onto your needle; advance the counter by hand at the end of each row to keep count. Larger counters that increase each time the top is depressed are also available. Devices with holes and pegs reminiscent of cribbage boards allow for more complicated tracking. Small candies also make good counters: Eat one as you complete each step.
• Scissors, snips, and yarn cutters. Folding scissors, tiny snips with a cover over the points, or a yarn cutter that can be worn as a pendant around your neck — these tools will cut your yarn without poking holes in your knitting bag. If you’ve progressed to the point of cutting your knitting (for instance, if you are steeking), a large pair of very sharp sewing shears is also a necessity.

  See also: What are steeks? for information on steeking; After You’re Done for adjusting sweaters for size.

• Stitch holders. Several tools are available to keep stitches on hold until they are needed again later in your project. Metal holders shaped like giant safety pins are widely available, as are rods resembling short knitting needles with a spring closure. In a pinch, you can place your stitches on large safety pins (or coiless safety pins), on a strand of yarn, or on an extra circular needle (particularly good for large numbers of stitches).
• Yarn needles. Used for sewing knitted pieces together and weaving in loose ends, these are big sewing needles with large eyes and blunt points. They can be made of metal or plastic and may be straight or have a bent tip. Choose whichever style you like. The only requirement is that the eye be large enough to accommodate your yarn. For finer yarns, you can use tapestry needles. Darning needles with large eyes and sharp points may make it easier to sew up some projects.
• Crochet hooks. Some knitting instructions may call for crocheted edgings, but crochet hooks are also very handy for hooking up dropped stitches and for crocheting pieces of knitting together. As with knitting needles, crochet hooks come in a range of sizes and in metal, wood, and plastic. If you use them only to correct mistakes, you don’t need a full range of sizes. One small and one medium hook should be sufficient.
• Double-ended crochet hooks. Sold under the name Fix-a-Stitch, these hooks are very helpful for picking up dropped stitches in knit-purl patterns such as Garter Stitch. They allow you to slide the tool through and use the opposite end to work from the other side of the fabric, rather than removing it and reaching around to the back between rows (see Resources).
  

  fix-a-stitch

• Extras. These aren’t required, but you may find them handy to have around:
  • Point protectors, to cover the tips of your needles so that stitches don’t fall off and the needles don’t poke holes in your bag. You can also use them to convert double-pointed needles to straight needles for small projects.
  • Calculator, for calculating how many stitches you should have.
  • Hand lotion, to smooth rough hands that are getting in the way of knitting.
  • Wax paper, for polishing needles.
  • Sandpaper or emery board, to smooth rough spots on needles.
  • Pencil and pad, for taking notes. Small pads of graph paper are great for charting patterns.
  • Sticky notes or removable highlighter tape, for keeping track of your place in lengthy pattern instructions.

Q Are there other knitting tools I should know about?

A: Here are suggestions for other (some, less portable) tools that are helpful:

• Knitting needle cases for straight and double-pointed needles are made of cloth, with pockets to organize your needles. The top folds over to keep the needles from falling out, and then the case is rolled or folded and then tied. Cases for circular needles come in several designs. Small booklets with see-through pockets for each size are particularly handy to carry around with you. Hanging cases allow you to store cable needles without coiling them.
• Yarn bras are little mesh bags, each designed to hold a ball of yarn and keep slippery yarns from becoming tangled. A knee-high stocking makes a good substitute, or seal your yarn in a ziplock sandwich bag, with one corner snipped open to pull the yarn through.
• A document stand can hold your pattern while you work. Some stands come with a magnetic placeholder.
• Ball winders and nostepinnes are used for winding balls of yarn. Ball winders clamp to a tabletop and wind yarn very quickly when cranked. Nostepinnes, which are easily carried in a knitting bag, form a base for a ball wound by hand.

  See also: Nostepinne illustration.

• Swifts hold skeins of yarn while they’re being wound into balls. Wooden swifts tend to be larger and can handle bigger skeins. The metal and plastic ones are smaller, lighter, and more portable. Some models are freestanding, while others clamp to a table. All rotate to feed the yarn to your ball winder and adjust to hold skeins of various sizes. You can also put your skein around the top of two straight chairs set back-to-back, over an upturned laundry basket, or on a friend’s hands. Swifts that can be mounted sideways are also useful for winding yarn into skeins if you want to wash the yarn before knitting.