In August, the large masses of berries, which, when in flower, had attracted many wild bees, gradually assumed their bright velvety crimson hue, and by their weight again bent down and broke their tender limbs.—HENRY DAVID THOREAU
The last full month of summer, August in Kentucky brings some of the hottest temperatures of the year. During the day, cicadas buzz in the trees, and late at night tree crickets sing us to sleep. Farmers’ markets and gardens across the state burst with an abundance of fresh produce. Whether outdoors on our patio or indoors at our kitchen table, August meals revolve around the harvest from the garden.
Before the wide availability of food in supermarkets, Kentuckians spent August and september preparing fruits, vegetables, and meats to store and eat throughout the winter. Home food preservation is experiencing a resurgence in popularity as more and more Kentuckians are reacquainting themselves with methods of preserving their own food. It lessens one's dependence on commercially processed food, and it's rewarding to store food at its peak of ripeness and create spreads, sauces, jams, and jellies to enjoy all year long.
Living in the city of Lexington, my mother and grandmother had small gardens, but because of the nearby markets and supermarkets, they didn't have to rely on their gardens to provide food for the winter. That said, during World War II, when there was food rationing, Lexington set up large-scale canning operations where individuals could go to can green beans, corn, or tomatoes. My grandfather would take bushels of beans to Lafayette High school in Lexington and can them to ensure enough food for the winter.
The garden I tend is not much different from those of my mother and grandmother. I grow a small variety of vegetables and herbs, but for the most part, I rely on local farmers to keep me stocked with summer produce. Like my grandmother, I cook a batch of Margaret's Chili sauce (page 219) while tomatoes are abundant, and when cucumbers are piled high on every table at the market, I know it's time to make Bread and Butter Freezer Pickles (page 218).
In Kentucky, an excellent source of information about canning and preserving food is the Kentucky Cooperative Extension service and its county extension agents. For general information about canning and other methods of food preservation, visit ball's website on the subject and that of the National Center for Home Food Preservation. Leifheit USA sells beautiful canning jars and supplies, and Canning Across America is a nationwide collective of cooks, gardeners, and food lovers committed to the revival of the lost art of “putting food by.”
Grits and oatmeal are traditional grains to cook and serve at breakfast. Hearty and filling, these cooked cereals can be served with a variety of toppings, including cinnamon; brown sugar; Kentucky honey; sorghum; dried cherries, cranberries, or blueberries; chopped walnuts, pecans, or almonds; fresh berries; and chopped fresh apple.
MAKES ABOUT 4 SERVINGS
This simple, hearty recipe was inspired by an Alton Brown recipe my brother-in-law Bob cooked for us while on a Michigan vacation. Steel-cut oats are the whole oat groats chopped into a coarse-textured meal. They take a bit longer to cook than their old-fashioned counterpart, but the trade-off in texture is worth the extra bit of cooking time. Dorsel's pin-head oats (another name for steel-cut) is traditionally used as the main ingredient in goetta (page 279), but they can also be cooked for breakfast.
1 teaspoon butter
1 cup steel-cut oats
3 cups boiling water
½ cup low-fat buttermilk, soy milk, or milk
In a saucepan over medium heat, melt the butter. Add the oats and stir for about 2 minutes to toast them. Add the boiling water and reduce the heat to low. Simmer, uncovered and without stirring, for 25 minutes. Then stir in the buttermilk and cook for 10 more minutes. Serve hot with your favorite toppings.
MAKES ABOUT 4 SERVINGS
1½ cups milk
¾ cup stone-ground grits
Butter, optional
4 teaspoons Kentucky honey
¼ cup dried blueberries, cherries, cranberries, or raisins
In a saucepan, bring the milk to a boil. Slowly whisk in the grits. Stir and cook for about 10 minutes or until thick and creamy. Remove from heat and portion into individual bowls. Top with a pat of butter, honey, and berries. Serve hot.
Late one night I received one of those startling telephone calls. Although my children were safe at home (not teenagers yet), I dashed to the kitchen and answered the ringing phone. A nurse was on the line: my dad's cousin had fallen at the nursing home and was on her way, via ambulance, to the emergency room for X-rays. I visualized Frankie in a speeding ambulance, on her way to a hospital where no one—including herself—knew her, her story, or her name. At that moment, I did the only thing I knew to do: I quickly changed my clothes, packed a bag of reading material, and headed to the hospital. Frankie had in fact fractured both her arm and her hip. Surgery was scheduled for the next day, and she spent the following week in the hospital recuperating.
Frankie had never married and was an only child, so she had no family, other than me, in the area. When we moved to Northern Kentucky, Frankie lived an independent, lively life in Fort Mitchell. She rode the bus downtown to work, drove to church on Wednesday and Sunday, shopped once a week at Remke's, and watched our cats when we traveled. When we drove to Lexington for holidays and birthdays, Frankie traveled with us, and on special occasions I met her for lunch at the Greyhound Grill.
Time marched on and Frankie retired from her lifelong secretarial job. She sold her car and started to rely on taxis for transportation to the grocery store, the doctor's office, and the beauty salon. It wasn't long before uncharacteristic things started to happen: she lost her apartment keys, quit feeding the birds, was unable to call a taxi, and stopped making appointments to have her hair done. A few years ago her neighbor called me: Frankie was wandering around her apartment building, unsure whether it was day or night.
Not too long after, I was fortunate to find Frankie a place to live at a local nursing home. The day she left her apartment for good, Frankie walked out with her purse on her arm as if we were going to lunch. Periodically she asked who had her checkbook, but she never asked one question about her old apartment or her clothes. Her dementia created a strange set of goggles that made her forget almost everything that had ever meant anything to her, and they clouded my vision of the independent, tidy lady I'd grown close to.
My children and I visit Frankie as often as we can. During the drive in the car, I field questions about memory loss while we reminisce about how Frankie and her apartment both smelled like chicken pot pie. When Frankie sees us, she smiles a sweet smile and laughs a catchy laugh. I look through an envelope stuffed with old photos with Frankie while she repeats stories about her father who worked on the railroad, her brother who lived for only a few hours after birth, and her days as a slim brunette at Ludlow High. Before we leave, I typically ask, “Frankie, do you need anything from the drugstore?” (I keep her supplied with tissues, soap, and denture cream.) She grins and replies, “How about a good-looking man?”
Father Time's visits are not equitable. For some, the aging process is graceful. With nothing more than a slight stoop, many seniors care for themselves without a second thought. For others, like Frankie, time swoops in and takes everything they could once do for themselves and sends it packing. They are rendered completely dependent on others for every detail of their lives.
As summer draws to a close, and in view of these recent events with Frankie, I spend time in my kitchen not begrudging but rejoicing in my ability to cook for my family. This weekend we'll gather for one last summertime picnic. We'll pick up our elderly relatives and bring them to the party. If all goes well, and even if it doesn't, I guarantee that something from the day will touch my heart. Even if your elderly relatives can't show it, your involvement in their lives is a gift to them and might touch their hearts in some pretty deep places as well.
There's something soothing and natural about flowers, pollen, bees, and honey, at least to me. For millions of years, honey has been produced by bees, and it is purported to have medicinal qualities, antiallergic compounds, and natural wound-healing and throat-soothing abilities.
Busy bees make honey from nectar they collect from flowers and the blossoms of trees. In Central and Northern Kentucky, the predominant nectar sources are sweet clover, wildflowers, and black locust, tulip poplar, and sourwood trees. Light-colored honey has a mild flavor, whereas dark honey tends to have a stronger taste. Kentucky honey is superb and somewhat limited in availability, as most of the major nectar sources in the state bloom for only a few short months in the spring and fall.
Honey can be used in cooking instead of sugar. It is sweeter than sugar, so use half as much honey as sugar and cut back on the liquid in the recipe by one-quarter. Honey attracts and retains water in baked goods, so cakes and cookies containing honey stay moist longer than those without honey.
To find Kentucky honey, shop at local farmers’ markets or roadside stands. Most beekeepers in Kentucky are small producers. The Kentucky State Beekeeper Association can help make connections with local beekeepers. Lawrenceburg's Otter Valley Farms honey is a favorite of mine, and my brother-in-law Stewart knows the family that collects the honey. Nick and Bev Nickels of Fayette County own the Kentucky Honey Company. Their honey is a thirteen-time winner at the Kentucky State Fair. The Midway Honey Company sells its honey at Weisenberger Mill and the Great Harvest Bread Company in Lexington. In Burlington, Katelyn's Honey on East Bend Road packages and sells honey across Northern Kentucky.
If the weather cooperates, a late-evening meal eaten outside on the patio or deck is an extraordinary way to end a hot summer day, and fresh air makes the food taste even better. In the summer, when the days are longer, we eat dinner later, then sit and watch the sun drop below the horizon, signaling the end of another day.
MENU
Moist Grilled Chicken Breasts
Fresh Basil Beans
Watermelon and Cucumber Salad
Cornbread and Tomato Salad
Peach Blueberry Pecan Crisp
Kentucky Wine Cooler Slush
MAKES 6 SERVINGS
It's not uncommon for chicken breasts to come off the grill dry, mealy, and not much fun to eat. My secret to a moist grilled chicken breast is at least an hour-long soak in a salty marinade and careful attention to cooking time. The marinade is mixed from fresh ingredients and is a bit like brining. When grilling, avoid the temptation to move the chicken around. Unless the fire flares up (which it shouldn't, if the marinade is drained), just leave the chicken alone and let it cook.
6 boneless, skinless chicken breast halves (about 2 pounds)
¼ cup olive oil
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
2 cloves garlic, minced
2 teaspoons fresh thyme leaves or ¾ teaspoon dried
1 teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Place the chicken in a single layer in a glass baking dish or a gallon-size zip-top freezer bag. Mix together the olive oil, lemon juice, garlic, thyme, salt, and pepper. Pour the marinade over the chicken, and turn the breasts several times to coat with the marinade. Cover the dish, or zip up the bag, and refrigerate for at least I hour or up to 4 hours. Preheat the grill to medium high. Remove the chicken from the marinade and let the excess drip off. Grill the chicken for 5 minutes on the first side. Turn it over and continue cooking about 4 more minutes. Remove to a clean platter, cover with foil, and let rest for 10 minutes before serving. The final temperature after resting should be 165°F.
MAKES ABOUT 4 SERVINGS
Some might say these green beans are too bright and too crisp, but that's the way I like them. The beans can be precooked up to a day ahead of time. They are then warmed and seasoned just before serving to keep the bright green color and crisp texture. For best results, select thin, stringless green or yellow beans.
1 pound fresh green or yellow beans
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 cloves garlic, minced
2 tablespoons fresh chopped basil
¼ teaspoon salt
1 large pinch crushed red pepper flakes
Bring a large pot of water to a rolling boil. Drop in the beans and cook for about 5 minutes, until bright and crisp. The actual cooking time depends on the thickness and maturity of the bean. Drain and immediately plunge the beans in ice water. Drain again, and keep the beans cool or refrigerated. To reheat the beans, heat the olive oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the beans, toss, and cook until warm. Add the garlic, basil, salt, and red pepper flakes, stirring to cook the garlic and coat the beans.
Gremolata Beans: Substitute ¼ cup chopped fresh parsley and 1 tablespoon fresh lemon zest for the basil.
Lemon Parmesan Beans: Substitute 1 tablespoon lemon zest and juice of ½ lemon for the basil. Stir in ¼ cup shredded Parmesan or Romano just before serving.
Sesame Ginger Beans: Substitute 1 teaspoon minced fresh ginger, 1 tablespoon reduced-sodium soy sauce or tamari, 1 tablespoon dark sesame seed oil, juice of 1 lime, and 1 teaspoon sesame seeds for the olive oil, garlic, basil, and salt.
Green beans are a Kentucky favorite, on this we agree. What we might disagree on is how long to cook green beans. Personally, I like a bright-green bean with firm texture and a bit of a bite. Others prefer to cook beans slowly and for a long time on the back of the stove, perhaps with a bit of fatback thrown into the pot.
To precook (blanch) green vegetables, first bring a large pot of water to a boil. Add about 1 teaspoon salt to the boiling water, drop in the vegetables, stir, and boil for about 5 minutes, or until the beans are bright green but still crisp. Drain and immediately stop the cooking process, either by dropping the vegetables in a bowl of ice water or rinsing with cold water.
MAKES ABOUT 12 SERVINGS
This dish is an unusual but refreshing combination of garden-fresh produce, Feta cheese, and walnuts.
4 cups chopped watermelon pieces
2 cups chopped tomato
2 cups chopped cucumber
½ cup crumbled Feta
¼ cup chopped walnuts, toasted
2 tablespoons olive oil
¼ teaspoon kosher salt
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Place the watermelon, tomato, cucumber, Feta, and walnuts in a bowl. Toss with olive oil, salt, and pepper. Serve chilled.
MAKES ABOUT 12 SERVINGS
This recipe was inspired by a salad my sister Anne loves from the Ketch restaurant in Lexington. It makes good use of leftover cornbread, or bake it fresh—one batch of Buttermilk Cornbread (page 293).
SALAD
8 cups crumbled cornbread
1 pint grape or cherry tomatoes, quartered
1 ounce basil, thinly sliced (about 1 cup)
1 cup frozen green peas, optional
1 cup fresh corn kernels (from 2 ears of corn)
1 cup crumbled crisp bacon (about 8 slices cooked)
6 green onions, white and small amount of green parts, thinly sliced
¾ cup shredded Parmesan
DRESSING
1 cup mayonnaise
½ cup sour cream
2 cloves garlic, chopped
2 tablespoons honey
½ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
In a large bowl, combine the cornbread, tomatoes, basil, peas, corn, bacon, green onion, and Parmesan. For the dressing, whisk together the mayonnaise, sour cream, garlic, honey, salt, and pepper. Stir the dressing into the cornbread mixture. Keep refrigerated until served.
The sweetest, juiciest peaches are allowed to ripen on the tree as long as possible. If they're picked too early, underripe peaches will get softer, but they won't get any sweeter. To soften an underripe peach, store it in a brown paper bag for a few days; then refrigerate until ready to use.
MAKES 8 TO 10 SERVINGS
Top with a dollop of Sour Cream Whipped Cream (page 242).
½ cup (1 stick) butter
6 cups sliced peaches (about 2 pounds)
2 cups blueberries (1 pint)
Juice of 1 lemon
¼ cup sugar
1½ cups old-fashioned oats
½ cup unbleached all-purpose flour
½ cup light brown sugar
1½ teaspoons cinnamon
1 cup chopped pecans
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Place the butter in the freezer to chill. Spray a 13×9×2-inch baking dish with nonstick cooking spray. In a bowl, toss the peaches, blueberries, lemon juice, and sugar. Spoon into the prepared baking dish. In another bowl, combine the oats, flour, sugar, and cinnamon. Using the large holes of a box grater, grate the butter into the oat-flour mixture. Mix gently with your fingers to combine. Stir in the pecans. Sprinkle the topping over the fruit. Bake for about 40 to 45 minutes, or until the fruit is bubbly and the topping is browned. Serve warm or at room temperature.
VARIATION: Apple Pear Pecan Crisp
Substitute 6 cups sliced apples and 2 cups sliced pears for the peaches and blueberries.
MAKES 2 SERVINGS
Wineries are springing up all over Kentucky. Scenic Elk Creek Winery outside Owenton makes crisp white wines such as Vidal Blanc, which is ideal for a homemade wine cooler. Visit the Kentucky Vineyard Society's website to search for a vineyard or winery in a specific area.
1 cup dry Kentucky white wine
1 cup ginger ale
Juice of 1 lime
2 tablespoons sugar
2 cups ice cubes
Place all the ingredients in a blender and blend on high for 1 minute. Serve in a chilled glass.
Produce from the garden is abundant at this time of year. Farmers’ markets and personal gardens are bursting with produce. In addition to enjoying this fresh bounty, now is the time to preserve food to enjoy during the cold wintry months.
MAKES 4 SERVINGS
In addition to squash, other summer vegetables such as red bell peppers, eggplant, or tomatoes can be added.
½ pound fresh chicken or Italian sausage, cut into 2-inch chunks
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 medium red onion, cut into 1-inch chunks
1½ pounds mixed summer squash, cut into 1-inch chunks
¼ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
½ cup pitted kalamata olives, halved
¼ cup capers
Juice of ½ lemon
½ cup chopped fresh parsley, basil, or thyme, or a combination
In a large skillet over medium-high heat, cook the sausage chunks until browned and fully cooked. Remove to a plate and keep warm. In the same skillet, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add the onion and cook until golden, about 10 minutes. Add the squash and cook until just tender, about 8 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Toss the sausage, olives, capers, and lemon juice with the squash and heat to warm. Just before serving, stir in the herbs.
Like most pantries, mine houses a wide variety of ingredients. Corn is represented in several forms, and I cook with corn on a regular basis. On occasion, I stove-pop a batch of popcorn to feed snack-starved children. Then I dig into a bag of stone-ground cornmeal to mix a thick batter for cornbread. Our Thanksgiving tradition includes a deep dish of corn pudding, while Christmas cries out for baked cheese grits. On Derby Day it's safe to assume a cold mint julep isn't a long shot, using Kentucky bourbon distilled from corn mash.
The pioneers who settled Kentucky depended on corn. It was a year-round source of food. It grew on the hillsides and had a short growing cycle, compared with wheat and barley. Practically anyone could bury a row of dried corn in the spring soil, and about ninety days later, in the heat of the summer, the tall stalks would be fully mature—waving their long ears, daring anyone to pick, cook, and eat the milky kernels buried inside the snug green shucks. When not consumed fresh, corn was dried and ground or soaked whole in lye to make hominy; the hominy was then dried and ground for grits. Corn also was, and still is, the choice grain for Kentucky bourbon. The mash for moonshine's genteel sister must contain at least 51 percent corn and must be aged in charred oak barrels for at least a year.
I am fortunate to own a fine collection of Kentucky cookbooks—some I bought, some were given to me as gifts, and a sizable portion I inherited from my father. For many years, Dad collected a variety of books written by Kentucky authors such as Jesse Stuart, John Fox Jr., Thomas Clark, Harlan Hubbard, and Wendell Berry. Several years before his death, he also started collecting Kentucky cookbooks, which is baffling, because Dad seldom set foot in the kitchen except to rummage around for a cold drink, a salty snack, or a late-night cookie. I love to browse through these books, reading recipes and stories about potluck dinners, church functions, grand Derby parties, and smoky barbecues. Needless to say, many of the Kentucky recipes use corn—fresh, frozen, dried, ground, treated with alkali, or distilled. Thanks to my well-stocked pantry, I'm able to put down the book, turn to the kitchen, and prepare a meal, a snack, or a drink with Kentucky's most honorable kernel.
To buy traditional Kentucky cornmeal, visit Salamander Springs Farm near Berea. They sell whole-grain cornmeal ground from colorful, organically grown Kentucky corn. Weisenberger Mill, located in Midway on the South Elkhorn Creek, produces and sells high-quality yellow and white cornmeal, wheat flour, grains, bran, and baking mixes.
MAKES 6 SERVINGS
Breaking the shucked ears of corn in half makes them more manageable for grilling and eating.
6 ears fresh corn on the cob
1 tablespoon olive oil
2 cloves garlic, chopped
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Prepare a hot charcoal fire, spreading the coals evenly for direct-heat cooking, or preheat a gas grill to medium high. Shuck the corn and wipe off all the corn silk. Break the ears of corn in half. In a large bowl, toss the corn with the olive oil, garlic, salt, and pepper. To cook, arrange the corn on the grill rack over the hottest part of the fire and grill, rotating the ears a few times, for about 6 minutes, or until the corn is softened, blistered, and golden brown.
MAKES ABOUT 4 CUPS
This peach salsa embodies simplicity and sweet freshness. Serve it with grilled chicken, grilled pork, tortilla chips, or pita chips.
6 fresh peaches, peeled and finely diced (about 3 cups)
1 jalapeno pepper, seeded and finely chopped
½ small red onion, finely chopped (about ¼ cup)
1 red bell pepper, seeded and diced
2 green onions, thinly sliced
Juice of 1 lime (about 1 tablespoon)
Pinch of kosher salt
Mix together the peaches, jalapeno, red onion, red pepper, green onion, and lime juice. Season to taste with salt and add more lime juice if desired.
MAKES ABOUT 5 CUPS
Cilantro, a cool-weather herb, goes well with tomatoes, but the two are rarely, if ever, harvested from the garden at the same time. In the heat of the summer, cilantro bolts, or goes to seed, while tomatoes love the hot summer sun. Use fresh parsley or basil when cilantro is not available. This salsa pairs well with all the usual suspects—grilled poultry or meat, tortilla or pita chips, and as a topping for grilled French bread. If smoked paprika isn't available, substitute sweet paprika, but the smoky flavor will be compromised.
3 medium tomatoes, seeded and quartered
2 green onions, chopped
1 red bell pepper, seeded and quartered
2 cloves garlic, chopped
¼ cup chopped cilantro, parsley, or basil
¼ cup olive oil
2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
1 tablespoon smoked paprika
1 teaspoon salt
¾ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Place the tomatoes, green onion, bell pepper, garlic, and your herb of choice in a food processor or blender. Pulse to blend and chop the ingredients. Pour the vegetable mixture into a large bowl. Mix in the olive oil, vinegar, paprika, salt, and pepper. Cover and refrigerate for at least an hour to blend the flavors.
MAKES ABOUT 12 SERVINGS
Serve hot, warm, or cold with a drizzle of olive oil.
¼ cup olive oil, divided
1 large onion, diced (about 2 cups)
8 ounces mushrooms, cleaned and quartered, optional
3 zucchini, cut into chunks
1 small eggplant, diced
¾ teaspoon salt, divided
3 tomatoes, cored and diced
3 cloves garlic, chopped
3 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves or 1 tablespoon dried
1 bay leaf
¾ cup chopped fresh basil
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
In a Dutch oven, heat 2 tablespoons oil over medium-high heat. Add the onion and cook about 8 minutes, until softened and golden. Stir in the mushrooms and zucchini and cook until the mushrooms release their juice and the zucchini is softened, about 5 minutes. Stir in the eggplant and ¼ teaspoon salt. Cook and stir until the eggplant is softened, about 5 minutes. Add the tomatoes, garlic, thyme, and bay leaf. Bring to a simmer and cook for 30 minutes, until the vegetables are cooked and the juices are slightly thickened. Stir in the basil and season with the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil, ½ teaspoon salt, and black pepper.
MAKES ABOUT 8 SERVINGS
This cold side dish is inspired by succotash—the corn and lima bean dish traditional in the South and New England. This recipe adds garden-ripe tomatoes and fresh basil to brighten up the corn and lima beans. If desired, shelled cooked edamame (green soybeans) can be substituted for the lima beans.
12 ounces shelled lima beans (about 2 cups), cooked until tender
1½ cups fresh or frozen corn kernels (about 3 ears)
½ medium red onion, finely diced (about ½ cup)
1 red bell pepper, seeded and chopped
2 medium tomatoes, cored, seeds removed, and chopped (about 2 cups)
¼ cup sliced fresh basil
1 clove garlic, minced
2 tablespoons fresh chopped thyme
2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
¼ cup olive oil
½ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
In a bowl, mix together the lima beans, corn, red onion, red pepper, tomatoes, basil, garlic, and thyme. Stir in the vinegar, oil, salt, and pepper. Serve at room temperature, but store refrigerated.
MAKES ABOUT 2 CUPS
Pesto has a tendency to darken if it's not stored correctly. The trick to maintaining a bright green color is to make a paste of cheese, oil, and nuts and then add the basil to the paste. Refrigerate the pesto with a thin layer of olive oil on top to prevent oxidation, or darkening, of the basil. The pesto can be thinned, if necessary, by stirring in additional olive oil. Pesto can be mixed with mayonnaise or sour cream to make a dip, served straight up on top of scrambled eggs, added to mayonnaise to make a dressing for potato salad, served on sliced tomatoes, or mixed with hot pasta.
2 cloves garlic, crushed
½ cup grated Parmesan
¼ cup walnuts
¾ cup olive oil
¼ teaspoon salt
4 cups fresh basil leaves (about 4 ounces fresh basil)
Place the garlic, Parmesan, walnuts, oil, and salt in a food processor with the metal blade or in a blender. Pulse to form a thick paste. Scrape down the sides of the bowl and pulse again for a few more seconds. Add all the basil and process until it's finely chopped and well incorporated into the paste. Serve as desired.
To store pesto, place it in a container, pour a thin layer of olive oil over the surface, cover, and refrigerate for up to I week. For longer storage, freeze small portions of pesto in freezer-safe containers.
MAKES ABOUT 8 CUPS
Extend the flavor of cucumbers into the fall or winter with these sweet, crisp pickles. Garden-fresh cucumbers aren't waxed, so I don't worry about peeling them.
8 medium-sized cucumbers
1 medium red onion
2 tablespoons salt
8 cups ice cubes
4 cups sugar
2 cups apple cider vinegar
1 teaspoon mustard seed
1 teaspoon celery seed
½ teaspoon turmeric
Have ready four 2-cup freezer-safe containers. Thoroughly wash the cucumbers. With a food processor or mandolin, thinly slice the cucumbers and red onion. Layer in a large bowl, alternating layers of cucumber and onion with layers of salt and ice. Let sit for 2 hours.
Meanwhile, in a saucepan, heat the sugar, vinegar, mustard seed, celery seed, and turmeric. Stir to dissolve the sugar. Set aside. After 2 hours, drain the cucumbers and remove any stray chunks of ice. Pour the sugar-vinegar solution over the cucumbers and stir. Use tongs to divide the cucumbers among the storage containers. Pour in any extra juice, leaving ½ inch of space at the top of the container. Cover tightly and freeze.
When shopping at a farmers’ market, ask to buy a box of “canners”—the tomatoes that aren't as pretty as the red shiny beauties on display. Although they may have a few cracks or bad spots, these tomatoes cook beautifully and are less expensive.
MAKES 5 PINTS
This recipe is ideal when the garden produces an abundance of tomatoes and bell peppers. Every year my grandmother canned a batch of this chili sauce, which my sisters and I called “Mamaw's Ketchup.” A large spoonful on cooked white or pinto beans, meat-loaf, or scrambled eggs is like summertime in a jar. My mother remembers a food chopper hooked to the edge of the counter to chop the tomatoes and vegetables while juice dripped all over the floor. There's nothing juicer than a garden-ripe tomato.
4½ to 5 pounds tomatoes, finely chopped (12 cups chopped)
1½ cups finely chopped onion
3 red or green bell peppers, seeded and finely chopped
3 cups finely chopped celery
⅔ cup light brown sugar
1 tablespoon celery salt
2 teaspoons cinnamon
2 teaspoons dry mustard
½ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
2 tablespoons salt
1 cup apple cider vinegar
In a large Dutch oven, mix all the ingredients except the apple cider vinegar. Bring to a boil, reduce to a simmer, and cook for 1½ hours. Stir in the vinegar and simmer for 45 minutes longer, stirring frequently. Pour the hot tomato mixture into sterilized pint jars. Put on the lids and rings. Process in a boiling water canner for 15 minutes (adjust the time for altitudes above 1,000 feet). Carefully remove the jars and place them on a towel to cool, leaving at least 1 inch of space between the jars. Let the jars cool for 12 to 24 hours. The lids should pop during the cooling process, indicating a tight seal. Do not push down on the center of the flat metal lid until the jar is completely cooled. Put any unsealed jars in the refrigerator, and use those first. Label the sealed jars and store them in the pantry.
Just when I think the long days of summer might last forever, the mail arrives with calendars for the upcoming school year. Here in Kentucky, children and college students return to school anywhere from mid-August to after Labor Day.
Although it's hard to stop the summertime fun and shop for school clothes and supplies, the time has come to get back to the school-day routine. Our one consolation is that summer doesn't officially end until around September 21. Take advantage of the last blast of summer to attend weekend fairs and festivals, spend evenings at the pool, dine on the patio, go hiking and fishing, attend outdoor concerts, and have late-season picnics. And enjoy the following recipes for packing a meal on the go.
MAKES ABOUT 6 CUPS
Fresh chicken salad is portable and one of life's simple pleasures. Chicken salad filled with nuts, fruit, and celery is refreshing. (To cook a whole fresh chicken, see page 26.) This recipe is also good with chopped cooked turkey.
4 cups chopped cooked chicken
1 cup chopped celery
1 cup pecan pieces
1 cup dried cherries
¼ cup fresh chopped chives, parsley, or tarragon
½ cup mayonnaise
¼ cup sour cream
Juice of 1 lemon
¼ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
In a bowl, combine the chicken, celery, pecans, cherries, and herb of choice. Stir in the mayonnaise, sour cream, lemon juice, salt, and pepper. Refrigerate and serve chilled.
MAKES ABOUT 2 CUPS
I was reminded of the simplicity of olive nut spread when my aunt Mary died. A family friend brought olive nut finger sandwiches to the funeral home for us to eat between visits. Based on the stories I've heard, my grandmother must have made a lot of this spread. It was economical and meatless, making an ideal filling for sandwiches on meatless Fridays during Lent, when no self-respecting Catholic mother in the 1940s would send her child to school with a bologna sandwich.
One 8-ounce package Neufchâtel or cream cheese, softened
⅓ cup mayonnaise
1 cup drained pimiento-stuffed green olives
½ cup chopped pecans
Dash hot red pepper sauce
Place all the ingredients in a food processor with the metal blade or in a blender. Mix well to chop the pecans and olives. Scrape the sides and mix for a few more seconds. use as a sandwich filling or serve with thick crackers. Store covered in the refrigerator.
MAKES 4 SANDWICHES
Cucumber onion spread, also known as Benedictine, was made famous by Jenny Benedict, a Louisville caterer. My favorite way to eat this spread is on dense whole-grain bread with crisp bacon and sprouts. Don't forget to drain the cucumber, or the Benedictine will be too thin.
One 8-ounce package Neufchâtel or cream cheese
1 cup grated peeled cucumber, drained
2 green onions, finely chopped
¼ teaspoon hot red pepper sauce
8 slices whole-grain bread
8 slices bacon, cooked crisp
½ cup broccoli or alfalfa sprouts
In a food processor with the metal blade or with an electric mixer, blend the cream cheese, cucumber, green onion, and hot red pepper sauce until creamy. Arrange 4 slices of bread on the counter. Spread ¼ cup cucumber spread on each slice of bread. Top with 2 bacon slices and a large pinch of sprouts. Top with the remaining bread slices. Cut the sandwiches into rectangles or triangles and wrap in wax paper. Store refrigerated.
MAKES ONE 13×9×2-INCH PAN
This sister of One-Pan Pecan Brownies (page 94) makes a portable dessert. Transport an entire pan to a party, or cut into bars for a sack lunch.
¾ cup (1½ sticks) butter
1½ cups packed light brown sugar
2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
¼ teaspoon baking soda
½ teaspoon salt
2 large eggs
2 tablespoons milk
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
1 cup semisweet mini chocolate chips
1 cup chopped pecans
1 cup flaked coconut, optional
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Spray a 13×9×2-inch baking pan with nonstick cooking spray. In a saucepan, melt the butter over very low heat. Remove the pan from the heat and whisk in the brown sugar until well combined and the sugar dissolves. Let it cool to the touch. In a bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt. Stir the eggs, milk, and vanilla into the cooled butter mixture until well blended. With a silicone spatula, fold in the flour mixture. Stir in the chocolate chips, nuts, and coconut. Spread the batter in the prepared pan. Bake for 30 to 35 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean. Be sure not to overbake. Cool on a rack.
