This is the best time in a garden, when all is hope and great expectations. The earth has a newness which becomes tarnished by mid-summer, the air is fresh and warm, fragrant with the moist earth.—HARLAN HUBBARD,PAYNE HOLLOW JOURNAL
In March, Kentucky is reborn. As the earth starts to wake from its winter nap, spring shows Kentuckians what they have to look forward to. March calls us outdoors—out of our homes, out of layers of clothes, and away from our cold-weather cooking methods. Leaving the cocoon of our homes to visit a neighbor or take a bike ride, we see the grass turning greener and smell the sweet blooms of spring.
Early in the morning, birds chirp in the trees and robins hop around the yard, pulling worms out of the dirt. On clear, warm days we work in the yard, trimming dead perennials, cutting back the ornamental grass, and raking away the mulch while tender shoots of chives, garlic, and lemon balm poke up through the dirt. All this is in preparation for the tender foods that springtime brings to the kitchen.
As I stroll through my soggy backyard, I stumble upon tiny clumps of green shoots growing near my kitchen. Around the neighborhood, I see crocuses and daffodils in bloom. Striking as these flowers are, my springtime clumps of green are of the edible variety—chives. Resembling the thin, wild green onions that sprout in our lawns, chives are a hardy perennial. They rarely let me down. Year after year, they appear in their familiar spot under the bayberry tree. As the chill of winter freezes the soil, chives’ tiny bulbs lie dormant. In early March, when the temperature begins to rise, their thin, cylindrical leaves erupt above the mulch. The time has come to enjoy some herbs from the garden—finally.
Throughout my life, March has offered celebrations: sometimes Easter, sometimes an NCAA basketball victory for the University of Kentucky, and always St. Patrick's Day. My Irish grandmother and mother made sure we had something green to wear to school, and they cooked an Irish-inspired meal—either the authentic sort, consisting of stew or corned beef, or a less authentic green-colored applesauce or mashed potatoes. Then, two of my three children were born in March, adding birthday celebrations to the start of spring. This means cake, candles, gifts, parties, and the love of life from two of the greatest gifts I've been given, my firstborn son and my only daughter.
This is also the time of year maple sap starts to “run,” and across the state fires burn to turn the sap into maple syrup (see page 75). Perennial vegetables and fruits such as asparagus and rhubarb start to produce, and strawberries begin to show up in supermarkets. Before these local crops appear, I try to choose fruits and vegetables grown as close to Kentucky as possible, rather than those imported from other countries.
March is the time to drink in the shift from winter to spring. Swing open the back door and feel the breeze of new growth and new birth. It's an exciting time of change in the kitchen, in the garden, and all across Kentucky.
The original Aunt Jemima Pancake Mix bore the image of Nancy Green, a native of Montgomery County. A freed slave, a storyteller, and the first African American corporate model, she traveled the country promoting the pancake mix until her untimely death in a car accident in 1923. As the following recipes show, it's easy to make a soft, fluffy pancake without a mix. For a 6-inch pancake, use ½ cup batter; for a 5-inch pancake, use ⅓ cup batter; for a 4-inch pancake, use ¼ cup batter; and for silver dollar-sized pancakes, use a tablespoon to portion out the batter. Top pancakes with whipped butter, powdered sugar, or warm, pure maple syrup.
MAKES ABOUT 18 PANCAKES
2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
¾ teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon salt
2 large eggs
2 cups plus 2 tablespoons low-fat buttermilk
¼ cup (½ stick) butter, melted
In a large bowl, stir together the flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt. In another bowl, mix together the eggs, buttermilk, and melted butter. Make a hole in the center of the flour and pour in the buttermilk mixture. Mix until the ingredients are blended but not smooth. Let stand for 5 minutes. Heat a griddle over medium heat until water flicked on the surface beads up and dances around. Use a ¼-cup measure to scoop the batter onto the griddle. Cook about 3 minutes, or until bubbles form on the surface and the bottom of the pancake is lightly browned. Turn the pancake over and continue to cook until the other side is browned, about 2 more minutes. Serve immediately or keep warm in a 200°F oven.
MAKES 8 CUPS
Freeze this mix in gallon-size zip-top bags to make mixing a batch of pancakes easier. Pastry flour is softer and lower in protein than traditional flour and makes a lighter, fluffier whole-grain pancake compared with whole wheat flour. In Kentucky, Weisenberger Mills sells whole wheat pastry flour. Buttermilk powder is sold in most supermarkets near the other dry milk powders.
4 cups whole wheat pastry flour
1 cup whole wheat flour
¾ cup buckwheat flour
¼ cup cornmeal
¾ cup oat flour or quick-cooking oats (not old-fashioned oats)
1 cup buttermilk powder
2½ tablespoons baking powder
1 tablespoon baking soda
½ cup sugar
1 tablespoon salt
Mix all the ingredients together in a large bowl. Divide the mix in half and place in two gallon-size zip-top freezer bags (about 4 cups in each bag). Store in the freezer for up to 6 months.
MAKES ABOUT 8 PANCAKES
1 cup Multigrain Flapjack Mix (above)
½ cup water
1 large egg
2 tablespoons canola oil
Stir all the ingredients together in a medium bowl. Heat a griddle over medium heat until water flicked on the surface beads up and dances around. Ladle out the batter using a ¼-cup measuring cup. Cook on one side until bubbles open on the surface of the pancake. Flip and cook until golden brown on the other side. Serve immediately or keep warm in a 200°F oven.
Margaret O'Neil Kearney—or Mamaw, as I knew her—was the daughter of Irish immigrants Thomas and Nora O'Neil. In a somewhat familiar story, Thomas and Nora immigrated to Massachusetts from Kerry County, Ireland, in search of a better life. Their daughter Margaret, my grandmother, was a registered nurse who received recognition for her work during the 1918 flu epidemic. In 1919, while on vacation in Lexington, Margaret met Michael William Kearney. They married in 1921, raised four children in Kentucky, and had a relatively good, but not easy, life.
As if it were yesterday, I can see myself riding in a car with my aunt Mary on our way to Mamaw's, house. Mary lived with Mamaw in a Lexington neighborhood where small white bungalows rested beneath large water maples. I stare out the passenger window, anticipating my weekend as an “only child,” leaving behind my parents, my seven siblings, and the twirl of activity a large family creates.
Upon our arrival, I tumble out of the car as Mamaw waits on the concrete stoop outside the back door. She is wiping her wet hands on her apron. I hug her, take her hand, and walk across the porch directly into the kitchen. Her hands feel soft, and she smells Ivory soap fresh.
Mamaw quickly resumes her cooking, and I skip to the bedroom to drop my suitcase. Upon returning to the kitchen, I see Mamaw's eighty-four-year-old back bending over the red countertop. She is busy making dinner rolls. I spy a dimpled aluminum pan, full of irregular mounds of dough. To keep my hands occupied, I am supplied with an extra ball of dough. I shape tiny figures, crescent moons, and other odd shapes and sprinkle them with glistening sugar and cinnamon. They are baked in the oven, beside the rolls.
I was fortunate to be able to spend time with my grandmother. She was older than most grandmothers of girls my age, having given birth to my mom at age forty-four. Despite her age, she taught me how to play canasta, and if my memory serves me correctly, she taught me how to go “out” with a concealed canasta, revealing her mischievous side. Together we worked jigsaw puzzles, crocheted, embroidered, and cooked. In her kitchen, food was prepared for family and friends, and the meals we shared did more than fill my preadolescent tummy—they also filled my heart. All I have to do is close my eyes, and suddenly I can smell the dinner rolls, the Ivory soap in the sink, and I feel Mamaw's soft hand in mine as we cross the back porch.
Pure maple syrup is a clear, amber-colored sweetener produced from the sap of sugar maple and red maple trees. Kentucky might not be the first state that comes to mind when one thinks of maple syrup, but with an abundance of wild red maple trees, our state produces syrup that rivals any New England product. The running and collecting of clear maple sap are sure signs of spring.
During the first hard thaw after a late winter freeze, holes are drilled in maple trees to hold spouts through which the sap flows, and buckets are hung to collect the sap. After collecting gallons and gallons of the clear sap, maple syrup producers boil it down, searching for the fine line between thick, pancake-worthy syrup and a boiled mess. It takes about 40 to 50 gallons of clear maple sap to produce 1 gallon of maple syrup.
Pure maple syrup comes in four grades, according to its flavor and color. These sometimes subtle differences correspond to when in the season the sap was collected and the syrup produced. Grade A light is the earliest spring syrup, with a light amber color and a mild maple flavor. Grade A medium has a more pronounced flavor and is the most popular grade for table use. Grade B dark, sometimes called grade A dark amber, is darker in color and more robust in flavor than other grade A syrups because it is made later in the season. Grade B, made at the end of the season, is the strongest and darkest syrup and is great for cooking and baking. Pure maple syrup contains no preservatives and is best stored in the refrigerator. I warm the syrup just before serving so it melts the butter and keeps the pancakes, waffles, or French toast piping hot.
Kentucky's annual Maple Syrup Festival is held in Auburn on the grounds of Federal Grove bed-and-breakfast during the last weekend of February or the first weekend in March.
Whether one is Irish or not, March 17 is the optimal day to cook a festive Irish meal and drink a tumbler of stout. My grandmother and my aunt Mary made sure we celebrated St. Patrick's Day with a special meal. Green grasshopper pie and green-tinted applesauce were not uncommon, even though the Irish wouldn't have eaten such food. Here's a more traditional menu.
MENU
Kentucky Barrel Ale Stew
Fluffiest Mashed Potatoes
Cast-Iron Skillet Soda Bread
Kentucky Irish Coffee
Warm Bread Pudding with Kentucky Bourbon Sauce (page 25) or
Shortbread Cutouts (shamrocks) (page 337)
MAKES 6 SERVINGS
The end of winter is the time for one last cold-weather stew before warm-weather cooking methods take over. This variation of beef stew focuses on simplicity: well-browned meat seasoned with garlic, onions, and herbs. I prefer to bake the stew to surround the pan with gentle heat. I add the carrots after about 1½ hours, to prevent them from overcooking. When the stew is finished, I have perfectly fork-tender meat and firm but tender carrots.
2½ pounds boneless chuck roast, cut into 2-inch pieces
Salt to taste
Freshly ground black pepper to taste
¼ cup canola oil, divided
2 large onions, cut into chunks
4 cloves garlic, smashed
1 teaspoon dried thyme
2 bay leaves
One 12-ounce bottle dark stout or ale, such as Guinness or Kentucky Ale
½ cup water
8 carrots, peeled and cut into 3-inch pieces
4 ribs celery, cut into 3-inch pieces
Preheat the oven to 325°F. Place the beef in a bowl and season with salt and pepper. In an ovenproof Dutch oven, heat 2 tablespoons oil over medium-high heat. Brown the beef in batches, without crowding it, and hold the browned beef on a plate. After all the beef is browned, reduce the heat to medium and add 1 tablespoon oil. Stir in the onion and garlic and cook for about 5 minutes to soften. Stir in the thyme and bay leaves. Add the stout or ale and the water and cook, stirring and scraping the browned bits of meat off the bottom of the pan. Add the browned meat and any accumulated juices and bring to a simmer. Cover and bake for 1½ hours. Carefully remove from the oven and stir in the carrots and celery. Re-cover and bake for another 45 minutes, until the carrots and beef are fork tender. Remove the bay leaves. Remove the excess fat from the pan juices. Serve warm.
MAKES ABOUT 8 SERVINGS
My mother makes the best mashed potatoes. When I was growing up, Mom would stand at the sink and peel potatoes by the pound with a paring knife. To this day, she can't peel potatoes with a vegetable peeler. My father loved the mashed potatoes made by their friend Bill Hinkle, so Bill taught my mom his mashed potato tricks, and she taught me. Mom has a few rules when it comes to fluffy mashed potatoes: Always use russet (Idaho) potatoes; they have just the right starch content. Use hot milk to blend into the potatoes, for enhanced creaminess. Use an electric mixer for whipping the potatoes; although a handheld potato masher works in theory, the result might be lumpy, not fluffy, potatoes. Use an adequate amount of salt; like potato chips, mashed potatoes taste flat without salt, which brings out their flavor.
For a twist on potatoes with garlic and olive oil, try Olive Oil Mashed Potatoes (page 84).
3 pounds russet or Idaho potatoes
1 cup hot milk
2 tablespoons butter
1 teaspoon salt
Peel the potatoes, cut into large chunks, and place in a large pan. Cover with cold water and bring to a boil. Cook about 20 minutes, or until the potatoes are tender enough to be pierced with a fork. Drain the potatoes well and place the pan back on the stove on low heat to dry the potatoes a bit before mashing them. Be careful not to scorch the potatoes. Pour in the hot milk and whip the potatoes with an electric mixer until they are well blended. Add the butter and salt and continue whipping to melt the butter and remove any lumps.
MAKES ONE 10-INCH ROUND LOAF
This soda bread has a thick batter like a quick bread, but it's similar in texture to a scone. The flavor is best on the day it's baked.
2 cups whole wheat flour
2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
¼ cup old-fashioned oats
2 teaspoons baking soda
1½ teaspoons salt
1 large egg
2 tablespoons butter, melted
2¾ cups low-fat buttermilk
Preheat the oven to 450°F. Rub a bit of oil in the bottom of a 10-inch cast-iron skillet to be sure the bread doesn't stick. Stir together the whole wheat flour, all-purpose flour, oats, baking soda, and salt, blending well. In a separate bowl, mix together the egg, melted butter, and buttermilk. Pour the buttermilk mixture into the dry ingredients and stir to form a soft batter. Place the batter into the prepared skillet. With a knife, mark a deep cross on the surface of the dough. Bake for 15 minutes. Reduce the heat to 400°F and bake for another 25 minutes, or until the bread is a deep golden brown. Let the bread cool for a few minutes before cutting.
MAKES 1 SERVING
Prepare to have your fingers and toes warmed by this drink. If possible, enjoy it by the fire and share Irish folk legends or listen to soothing Celtic music.
1 teaspoon brown sugar
6 ounces hot, dark-roast brewed coffee
1 tablespoon Kentucky bourbon
1 tablespoon Buffalo Trace Cream Liqueur or other whiskey cream liqueur
Brown Sugar Bourbon Whipped Cream (page 69), for garnish
Spoon the sugar into the bottom of a coffee mug. Pour in the hot coffee and stir to dissolve the sugar. Mix in the bourbon and cream liqueur. Top with a large spoonful of whipped cream. Serve hot.
In our family, the month of March is filled with joy. We enjoy the daffodils and crocuses popping up throughout the neighborhood, but we also enjoy a double-dose of birthday celebrations. For each birthday I bake or cook a birthday snack to take to school, a birthday dinner to share at home, and a birthday cake—whatever the birthday boy or girl wants. In addition to the recipes presented here, which are favorites of my children, they also love White Bean Soup with Pasta and Kale (page 36), Mama Maggie's Italian Meat Sauce (page 33) over spaghetti, and Ale-8 One Slow Cooker Pork Barbecue (page 175).
MAKES 4 SERVINGS
This recipe is simplicity at its finest. Buy fresh salmon from a reputable seafood market, because with seafood, you get what you pay for. When pan-roasted, the salmon remains moist and succulent. Serve it with any of the following fresh sauces, depending on the season: Arugula Pesto (page 138), Fresh Parsley Sauce (page 24), Smoky Tomato Salsa (page 214), or Fresh Peach Salsa (page 213).
Four 6-ounce center-cut salmon fillets
2 tablespoons olive oil, divided
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
Brush both sides of the salmon fillets with olive oil and sprinkle with salt and pepper. In a large skillet, heat the remaining olive oil over medium-high heat until hot. Without crowding, place the fillets in the skillet, skin side up. Cook without moving for about 5 minutes, until the edges begin to crisp and the fillets start to cook toward the center. Turn the fillets and continue cooking for 4 more minutes, until just cooked through.
MAKES 6 SERVINGS
Allow at least 2 hours for the pot roast to marinate and then about 3 hours to cook it.
One 3- to 4-pound chuck roast
One 12-ounce cola soda
½ cup reduced-sodium soy sauce or tamari
2 medium onions, chopped (about 3 cups)
8 cloves garlic, smashed
1 lemon, thinly sliced
Freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons canola oil
8 carrots, peeled and sliced
2 tablespoons cornstarch
¼ cup water
Place the chuck roast in a gallon-size zip-top bag, and stand the bag up in a large bowl. Pour the cola and soy sauce into the bag. Add the chopped onion, garlic, lemon, and pepper. Seal the bag and shake the ingredients to blend well. Refrigerate for at least 2 hours or overnight.
Remove the roast from the marinade and pat dry with a paper towel. Preheat the oven to 325°F. In a Dutch oven, heat the oil over medium heat. Brown the roast on both sides. Add the marinade, and bring to a gentle boil. Cover the Dutch oven and bake for 2 hours. Remove from the oven and carefully remove the lid. Turn the roast and add the carrots. Return the roast to the oven and cook for another 30 minutes. When the carrots are soft, remove the meat to a platter. Remove the excess fat from the sauce, and bring the remaining sauce to a boil in the Dutch oven. Meanwhile, mix the cornstarch and water to make a paste. Stir the paste into the sauce to thicken. Slice the beef and serve it with gravy and vegetables on the side.
MAKES ABOUT 6 SERVINGS
Some laugh at the abundance of boneless poultry sold at the supermarket, as if chickens and turkeys don't have bones. But what's not to love about the convenience of a boneless chicken breast or thigh? My favorite boneless cut is the chicken thigh because of its rich flavor and tender meat. This recipe was tested with fresh boneless chicken thighs. If frozen thighs are used, thaw them first and pat them dry to remove excess moisture. When breading the chicken—or any other food, for that matter, such as Cornmeal-Crusted Fried Green Tomatoes (page 181)—use only one hand. This keeps the other hand clean for answering the phone, picking up a nearby dish, or opening the door to let the dog out.
CHICKEN
3 pounds fresh boneless chicken thighs (about 12 thighs)
1 cup low-fat buttermilk
2 cloves garlic, pressed
1 tablespoon spicy brown mustard
½ teaspoon salt
Dash hot red pepper sauce
4 tablespoons (½ stick) butter, divided
4 tablespoons canola oil, divided
BREADING
1 cup unbleached all-purpose flour
½ cup yellow cornmeal
1 teaspoon chili powder
½ teaspoon garlic powder
½ teaspoon dried thyme
½ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Place the chicken thighs in a large baking dish. Mix together the buttermilk, garlic, mustard, salt, and pepper sauce. Pour the mixture over the chicken and turn it to coat the thighs. Cover and refrigerate for at least 2 hours.
Preheat the oven to 425°F. In a shallow dish, combine the flour, cornmeal, chili powder, garlic powder, thyme, salt, and pepper. Prepare two rimmed baking sheets by placing 2 tablespoons butter and 2 tablespoons canola oil on each. Place the baking sheets in the oven to just heat the oil and melt the butter, but be careful not to burn the butter. One at a time, remove the chicken pieces from the buttermilk and let the excess drip off. Dredge the chicken in the flour mixture to coat on both sides. Place on a baking sheet and turn to coat with the melted butter. Repeat with the rest of the chicken, placing 6 thighs on each baking sheet. Bake for 30 to 35 minutes, or until cooked through.
Salad bars are enjoyable because everyone gets to fill their plates with whatever they like. A salad bar at home makes a nice addition to any meal, even when guests are invited. Arrange the items on a large platter or in individual bowls. Salad items I often use include baby spinach, arugula, or mixed greens; chopped celery; red pepper strips; grated carrot; shredded red cabbage; sliced hard-boiled eggs; roasted hulled sunflower seeds, pumpkin seeds, or cashews; homemade croutons (see Modern Caesar Salad with Salt and Pepper Croutons, page 67); shredded Cheddar or crumbled Feta; raisins or dried cranberries; and homemade dressings or vinaigrettes.
MAKES 6 SERVINGS
This recipe makes use of the oven to cook broccoli in a flavorful fashion.
1¼ pounds broccoli, cut into florets (about 8 cups)
4 tablespoons olive oil, divided
¼ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
¼ cup sliced almonds
2 large cloves garlic, minced
¼ teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes
Preheat the oven to 425°F. In a large bowl, toss together the broccoli and 2 tablespoons olive oil. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Transfer to a rimmed baking sheet and bake for 15 minutes.
Meanwhile, mix together the remaining 2 tablespoons oil, almonds, garlic, and red pepper flakes. After the broccoli has cooked 15 minutes, pour the oil mixture over the broccoli and shake the baking sheet to coat. Return to the oven and continue baking until the broccoli is browned, about 8 to 10 minutes. Serve hot.
MAKES 6 SERVINGS
When very thinly sliced, fresh carrots cook in about 10 minutes. This recipe adds color and texture to a weeknight meal. The carrots “caramelize” when cooked over high heat, sweetening them with their own natural sugars. The brown sugar and ground ginger add spicy sweetness.
8 large carrots, peeled and cut into matchsticks or very thin slices
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 tablespoons brown sugar
1 teaspoon ground ginger
¼ teaspoon kosher salt
In a large skillet, heat the oil over medium-high heat. Add the carrots and cook, stirring constantly, for 5 minutes. Cover and cook another 5 minutes, until the carrots are tender and caramelized. Stir in the brown sugar, ginger, and salt and heat until warm.
MAKES ABOUT 6 SERVINGS
This recipes makes lumpy, rustic mashed potatoes. The fresh garlic mellows and becomes sweet when boiled with the potatoes.
2 pounds all-purpose red or gold potatoes
6 cloves garlic, peeled
⅓ cup olive oil 1 teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Scrub the potatoes, but do not peel, and cut them into large chunks. Place the potatoes and garlic in a 2½-quart saucepan. Cover the potatoes with cold water and bring to a gentle boil. Reduce the heat and cook for about 25 minutes, or until the potatoes are tender when pierced with a fork. Reserve ¾ cup of the cooking liquid, and drain the rest off the potatoes. Add the olive oil, salt, pepper, and reserved cooking liquid to the potatoes. Mash with a handheld potato masher or a large fork. Taste and season with more salt and pepper if desired.
Growing up in landlocked Central Kentucky, needless to say my family and I weren't out forging romantic seafood experiences by deep-sea fishing or trapping crustaceans at the break of day. Salmon was served out of a can: combined with cracker crumbs, shaped into patties, and fried in a cast-iron skillet. Cod came in a frozen rectangular block, and after peeling the box off the folded fillets, Mom baked the fish with paprika and lemon juice. On a rare occasion, Mom would fry shrimp for my dad. Once she fried enough for the whole family, but with ten hungry mouths and only one Fry Daddy, this was no small feat.
During Lent, we abstain from eating meat on Friday. For this reason, the Lenten tradition of fish fries has grown. In Northern Kentucky alone, more than twenty churches, civic clubs, and veterans’ posts host fish fries on Friday nights during Lent. Louisville and Owensboro, where Catholic populations also flourish, are no strangers to fish fries either.
In addition to the hot fish and steaming side dishes, fish fries are lively social events. The money raised goes to sports teams or the scouts, and local politicians appear to shake hands and kiss babies. Whether the line for food is long or not, the fish is hot and the beer is cold. And there is an abundance of children running around at the feet of parents and grandparents.
When we go to our local fish fry, we order a setup: a fish fillet meal with two sides, an order of fries, and a slice of white or rye sandwich bread. We select from coleslaw, macaroni and cheese, green beans, and hush puppies. And don't forget the dollar light beers, which might be the reason the “faithful” attend these Friday fish fries during Lent. On nights we stay home, we have a fish fry of our own, with a menu like this one.
MENU
Almond-Crusted Grouper Sandwiches
Mustard-Caper Tartar Sauce
Creamy Penne and Cheese
Sunflower Slaw (page 180)
Stone-Ground Cornmeal Hush Puppies
Shaker Lemon Pie
MAKES 4 SANDWICHES
This recipe is a pan-fried alternative to deep-fried fish. If grouper is not available, cod, tilapia, walleye, and trout also make a fine sandwich. This was inspired by a recipe from Marshall Field's Department Store.
Four 6-ounce grouper fillets
½ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
½ cup sliced almonds
½ cup Panko (Japanese) bread crumbs
½ cup milk
¼ cup canola oil
4 whole-grain sandwich buns
1 cup sliced romaine lettuce
Generously season the fish on both sides with salt and pepper. Have ready two shallow bowls or pie pans. In the bowl of a food processor fitted with a metal blade, combine the almonds and bread crumbs. Pulse until chopped but not finely ground. Transfer to a shallow bowl. Pour the milk in the other shallow bowl. Dip the fish in the milk, then in the almond breading, coating both sides evenly. In a large skillet, heat the oil over medium-high heat. When the oil is hot, add the fish in batches, if necessary, to avoid crowding, and cook for 3 to 4 minutes on each side, until the breading is golden and the fish is cooked through. Place each piece of fish on a bun and top with romaine and Mustard-Caper Tartar Sauce (page 87).
This tartar sauce is good with any type of fish cake, crab cake, or fish fillet. If capers aren't available, substitute old-fashioned dill relish.
½ cup mayonnaise
¼ cup capers
2 tablespoons Dijon mustard
2 tablespoons chopped red or green onion
Juice of ½ lemon
¼ teaspoon dried dill weed
½ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Dash hot sauce
In a bowl, mix all the ingredients until well blended. Refrigerate until ready to serve.
MAKES ABOUT 8 SERVINGS
One of my pet peeves is the bright-orange processed macaroni and cheese out of a box that so many young children eat during their formative years. I know kids love cheesy pasta, so I created this easy recipe using everyday ingredients.
1 pound (4 cups) penne pasta
1 tablespoon butter
2 cups milk
2 large eggs
½ teaspoon Dijon mustard, optional
¾ teaspoon salt
Dash hot red pepper sauce
8 ounces (2 cups) shredded Cheddar or Colby
Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Add the pasta and cook until tender, about 11 minutes. Drain the pasta and stir in the butter. Over low heat, add the milk, eggs, mustard, salt, and red pepper sauce. Cook, stirring, for about 5 to 7 minutes, until hot and steamy. Stir in the cheese and keep stirring until thick and creamy. Do not allow to boil.
MAKES ABOUT 36 HUSH PUPPIES
Hush puppies are the classic accompaniment to a fish dinner, with the wholesome goodness of Kentucky cornmeal.
Canola oil
2 cups stone-ground cornmeal
1 tablespoon sugar
1 teaspoon baking powder
1 teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon salt
¼ cup minced onion
1 cup low-fat buttermilk
1 large egg
Preheat the oven to 200°F. Line a rimmed baking sheet with paper towels. In a large, heavy saucepan, heat 1½ inches of canola oil to 375°F.
Meanwhile, in a bowl, whisk the cornmeal, sugar, baking powder, baking soda, and salt together. Stir in the minced onion. In another bowl, mix the buttermilk and egg until well blended. Make a hole in the middle of the cornmeal and pour in the buttermilk. Stir to blend. Working in batches, drop the batter from a tablespoon into the hot oil, without overcrowding the pan. Let cook for about 2 minutes, or until the underside is golden brown. With a wooden chopstick or slotted spoon, flip the hush puppies and continue cooking for about 2 minutes, until golden brown. Use the slotted spoon to remove the hush puppies to the paper towel–lined baking sheet. Keep warm in the oven until ready to serve.
MAKES ONE 9-INCH PIE
Sometimes called Ohio Lemon Pie, this unique pie uses whole sliced lemons. Adapted from The Shaker Cookbook by Caroline B. Piercy, this pie is a favorite my family enjoyed growing up. Winter is prime season for lemons. Lemons, although not grown in Kentucky, are available from surrounding states such as California, Texas, and Florida. Even though the Shakers who settled at Pleasant Hill raised most of their own food, they also knew the power of a lemon in cooking and in preventing scurvy, a disease resulting from vitamin C deficiency. The Shakers had a thriving business of trading seeds and other handcrafted items for food they were unable to grow. Lemons are a good example of food they “imported.” For best results, slice the lemons as thin as possible, and let the sugar and lemons stew for at least 2 hours before mixing the filling. Top a slice of pie with Sour Cream Whipped Cream (page 242) if desired.
One 9-inch All-Butter Pie Crust (page 90)
2 lemons, washed and carefully sliced paper thin
2 cups sugar
4 eggs
In a bowl, combine the lemons and sugar. Stir well, cover, and let sit for 2 hours.
Preheat the oven to 425°F. Line a 9-inch glass pie plate with the pie crust. Place prepared pie shell on a rimmed baking sheet. In a bowl mix the lemon and sugar mixture with the eggs. Pour into prepared pie shell. Bake for 15 minutes. Reduce oven temperature to 350°F and bake for about 40 more minutes, until the pie no longer jiggles in the middle when the pan is gently moved back and forth. Let cool before slicing.
MAKES ONE 9-INCH PIE CRUST
Supermarkets sell refrigerated pie crusts, pie crust mixes, and the ever-popular frozen pie shells. I believe making homemade pie crust is a dying art. I'm determined not to lose this skill, and this is my favorite all-purpose crust recipe. My crusts turn out better every time I make one.
½ cup (1 stick) butter, cut into 1-inch slices
1½ cups unbleached all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon sugar
½ teaspoon salt
3 to 4 tablespoons ice water
Place the butter in the freezer to chill. Meanwhile, blend the flour, sugar, and salt in a food processor with the metal blade. Add the butter and pulse the processor on and off until the butter is the size of large peas. With the processor running, drizzle in the water. Stop processing when the dough starts to form a ball. Do not overmix. Place the dough onto a large piece of plastic wrap. Fold the plastic wrap over and around the dough to seal, and press the dough into the shape of a disc. Refrigerate for at least 1 hour.
After the dough has chilled, unwrap and place it on a lightly floured surface. Roll into an 11-inch circle and place the dough into a 9-inch pie pan. To flute the edge, use the index finger of one hand to push the dough between the thumb and index finger of the other hand, forming u-shaped indentations about 1 inch apart around the entire edge. Refrigerate until ready to fill.
Here are a couple more fish recipes, along with a tasty brownie dessert.
MAKES ABOUT 4 SERVINGS
Known for its pink flesh, beauty, and gaminess, rainbow trout is a favorite among anglers. Dale Hollow Lake and Laurel River Lake in Kentucky both have healthy populations of trout.
Four 1-pound rainbow trout, butterflied
2 cups pecan pieces, toasted
1 cup unbleached all-purpose flour
½ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
¼ cup (½ stick) butter
Preheat the oven to 350°F. In a food processor fitted with the metal blade, chop the pecans until they are almost flour-like. Pour into a shallow bowl. Mix in the flour, salt, and pepper. In a large skillet, heat the butter over medium heat. Dredge the flesh side of the trout in the flour and pecan mixture. Place in the skillet, pecan side down, and cook until golden brown, about 2 minutes. Turn the fillet and cook for 2 more minutes. Remove the fish from the skillet and place in a 13×9×2-inch baking pan, pecan side up. Bake for 8 to 10 minutes to finish cooking.
MAKES ABOUT 8 FISH CAKES
These fish cakes make a filling seafood dinner and can be served with Mustard-Caper Tartar Sauce (page 87) or Smoky Remoulade Sauce (page 262). To serve as an appetizer or hors d'oeuvre, divide the mixture into 16 tiny patties. Crab or imitation crab can be substituted for the catfish.
1 pound cooked, flaked catfish
¼ cup thinly sliced green onion
1 large egg
3 tablespoons mayonnaise
1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
1 teaspoon Spicy Seasoning Mix (below) or other seafood seasoning
Juice of 1 lemon
½ cup saltine cracker crumbs (from 14 square saltine crackers)
2 tablespoons canola oil
2 tablespoons butter
In a large bowl, mix together the catfish and green onion. In a small bowl, blend together the egg, mayonnaise, Worcestershire sauce, Dijon, Spicy Seasoning Mix, and lemon juice. Gently fold it into the catfish, along with the cracker crumbs. Shape into 8 patties and refrigerate while heating the oil and butter in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the fish cakes, in batches, and cook about 5 minutes on each side, until golden brown and hot throughout. Keep warm until served.
MAKES ABOUT ¼ CUP
For a fresh alternative to store-bought Cajun or Creole spice mixes, I mix one batch at a time and store it in a jar. In addition to Hearty Catfish Cakes (above), I use it for Peel-’n’-Eat Barbecue Shrimp (page 236), Roasted Potatoes with Garlic and Parsley (page 134), and Shrimp and Creamy Grits (page 235).
2 tablespoons sweet paprika
1 tablespoon garlic powder
1½ teaspoons dried thyme
¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper
1½ teaspoons salt
1½ teaspoons freshly ground black pepper
Mix all the ingredients together and store in an airtight container.
MAKES ONE 11×7-INCH PAN OF BROWNIES
These brownies can be mixed as quickly as a box mix. The brown sugar adds richness and complements the chocolate.
⅔ cup unbleached all-purpose flour
½ teaspoon baking powder
½ teaspoon salt
½ cup (1 stick) butter
½ cup unsweetened cocoa powder
½ cup packed light or dark brown sugar
½ cup granulated sugar
2 large eggs
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
½ cup semisweet chocolate chips
½ cup chopped pecans
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Spray an 11×7-inch baking pan with nonstick cooking spray. Measure the flour, baking powder, and salt in a bowl. Whisk to blend and set aside. Melt the butter in a saucepan over low heat. Remove the pan from the heat and whisk in the cocoa powder, brown sugar, and granulated sugar until well combined. Let it cool to the touch. Stir in the eggs and vanilla until well blended. Using a silicone spatula, fold in the flour mixture, chocolate chips, and pecans. Spread the batter evenly in the prepared pan. Bake for 18 to 20 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean. Be sure not to overbake. Cool on a rack.