The best things in life are nearest: Breath in your nostrils, light in your eyes, flowers at your feet, duties at your hand, the path of right just before you. Then do not grasp at the stars, but do life's plain, common work as it comes, certain that daily duties and daily bread are the sweetest things in life.—ROBERT LOUIS STEVENSON
The last full month of winter, February can bring some of Kentucky's worst weather of the year. It might seem like spring is just around the bend, but February is unpredictable, with snow, ice storms, and even blizzards possible. Despite the threatening weather, there's also a bit of festivity: Valentine's Day provides a day to celebrate love, and Super Bowl Sunday offers the opportunity to snack and graze and celebrate that great American pastime—football.
Our Kentucky pioneer ancestors didn't have much to celebrate in February, except perhaps the discovery of something fresh to eat in the wild. February had the potential to be one of the leanest food months unless the pantry was adequately stocked to make it through until spring. In the twenty-first-century, practically any food or ingredient can be found at the supermarket with little planning or forethought, but I still make every effort to buy fresh, domestically raised produce from agricultural regions as close to Kentucky as possible. In addition, I take advantage of fresh, longer-storing produce such as apples, oranges, grapefruit, potatoes, winter squash, and root vegetables, as well as frozen fruits and vegetables.
In February, home gardeners start to receive seed catalogs in the mail, signaling the time to plan our vegetable gardens. February is a time of anticipation, a time to dream of the plants, the growth, and the harvest.
Take the opportunity during this short winter month to use the kitchen to celebrate love with home-cooked meals and celebrate this last blast of winter, even as the buds surely start to swell beneath the snow.
Scones didn't grace our breakfast table when I was growing up. My first encounter with a scone was at the hands of my sister Barbara. Her travels to England introduced her to this sweet-style biscuit, and she brought her love for this teatime accompaniment home to her family. One hot summer morning we met for breakfast at my aunt Eileen's stamping Ground farm. Instead of a traditional Kentucky breakfast with fried eggs, sausage, grits, and toast, Barbara baked a batch of scones. We slathered them with thick Devonshire cream and sipped hot tea while the window air-conditioner blew cold air at our necks. Since then, I have grown to love baking these sweet biscuits, with a variety of additions to the dough.
Much like biscuits, scones contain flour, baking powder and/or baking soda, butter, some variety of milk, sugar, and sometimes eggs. To mix the dough, either use an electric mixer or mix by hand using light, quick strokes to prevent the dough from getting tough. Scones can be cut into wedges or with a round cutter. Place the scones close together on the baking sheet for softer sides. Scones are best served warm on the day they are baked. Wrap the warm scones in a tea towel and serve them with butter, jam, preserves, or, in the British tradition, clotted or Devonshire cream. Hot tea is the customary beverage, but hot coffee is awfully good too. To freeze, cool the scones and place them in a heavy-duty zip-top bag.
For the flakiest biscuits, scones, and pie crusts, it's important to cut the butter into pieces that remain about the size of a pea. When the dough is baked, the butter melts, creating pockets of air between the cooked layers of dough. My favorite method of cutting butter into flour is to use a box grater. I chill the butter, grate it into the flour using the large holes on the grater, and then toss the butter and flour together with my hands to combine. This way, I don't have to clean a food processor, and grating ensures that the butter pieces aren't cut too small.
MAKES SIXTEEN 2-INCH
MINI SCONES
Simply delightful, these bite-size scones offer the fresh taste of lemon.
4 tablespoons (½ stick) butter
2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
2 tablespoons sugar
1 tablespoon baking powder Grated zest from 2 lemons
¼ teaspoon salt
2 large eggs
½ cup plus 2 tablespoons heavy cream, divided
2 tablespoons coarse or sparkling sugar, optional, for garnish
Preheat the oven to 400°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Place the butter in the freezer to chill. Meanwhile, whisk together the flour, sugar, baking powder, lemon zest, and salt. With a box grater, grate the chilled butter into the flour mixture. With your hands, mix gently to incorporate the butter and coat it with flour. In a small bowl, whisk together the eggs and ½ cup cream. Add to the dry mixture and stir until a sticky dough is formed. Turn the shaggy dough onto a lightly floured countertop and knead just until the dough holds together, about 6 times. Pat into a 1-inch-thick round. With a 2-inch round cutter, cut the dough into round scones. Place the scones about 1 inch apart on the prepared baking sheet. Brush the top of the scones with the remaining heavy cream, and sprinkle with coarse or sparkling sugar, if desired. Bake in the center of the oven until crusty and golden brown, about 15 to 20 minutes. Serve warm, or cool on a rack.
MAKES ABOUT 16 SCONES
This is a hearty, thick scone. Dried cranberries can be substituted for the cherries, if desired.
1¼ cups (2½ sticks) butter
3¼ cups unbleached all-purpose flour
¾ cup sugar
¾ teaspoon salt
2½ teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon baking soda
2½ cups old-fashioned oats
1 cup dried cherries
1 cup semisweet chocolate chips
1 cup low-fat buttermilk
1 tablespoon cream or milk
Coarse or sparkling sugar
Preheat the oven to 375°F. Line two baking sheets with parchment paper. Place the butter in the freezer. With an electric mixer or by hand, combine the flour, sugar, salt, baking powder, baking soda, and oats. Use the large holes of a box or cheese grater to grate the chilled butter into the flour. Mix by hand or on medium-low speed until the mixture resembles coarse meal. Stir in the cherries and chocolate chips. Using as few strokes as possible, gently mix in the buttermilk. Turn the dough out onto a clean work surface dusted with flour. With lightly floured hands, pat the dough into a large circle about 1 inch thick. With a 3-inch round cutter, cut into rounds and transfer to the prepared baking sheets. Brush the scones with cream or milk and sprinkle with sugar. Bake until light golden brown, about 25 to 30 minutes. Serve warm, or cool on a rack and freeze in heavy-duty freezer bags.
VARIATION: Apricot White Chocolate Scones
Substitute 1 cup chopped dried apricots for the cherries and white chocolate chips for the semisweet chips.
MAKES 12 SCONES
Early Kentucky pioneers ground up the seeds from the Kentucky Coffee Tree and made a dark drink that resembled coffee. For a short time, the Kentucky Coffee Tree was our official state tree, much to the consternation of Tulip Poplar lovers. This recipe contains buttermilk mixed with espresso powder and a dose of chocolate chips for a not-too-sweet scone. Instant espresso powder can be found in large supermarkets and specialty food markets. If it's not available, substitute dark instant coffee.
1¼ cups (2½ sticks) butter
4½ cups unbleached all-purpose flour
½ cup sugar
1 cup semisweet chocolate chips
2 teaspoons baking powder
½ teaspoon baking soda
½ teaspoon salt
1¼ cups low-fat buttermilk
¼ cup instant espresso powder or dark instant coffee
1 tablespoon cream or milk
Sparkling or coarse sugar
Preheat the oven to 400°F. Line two baking sheets with parchment paper. Place the butter in the freezer to chill. Whisk together the flour, sugar, chocolate chips, baking powder, baking soda, and salt. In a separate bowl, mix together the buttermilk and instant espresso powder. Use the large holes of a box or cheese grater and grate the butter into the flour mixture. Mix gently with your hands to combine. Using as few strokes as possible, fold the buttermilk mixture into the flour and butter mixture. Turn the dough out onto a clean work surface dusted with flour. With lightly floured hands, pat the dough into a large circle about 1 inch thick. Cut the circle in half, and cut each half into 6 wedges. Carefully transfer the wedges to the prepared baking sheets. Brush the scones with cream or milk, and sprinkle with coarse or sparkling sugar. Bake until light golden brown, about 25 to 30 minutes. Serve immediately, or cool on a rack.
As I write, a fairly heavy snow falls outside, and although I can't see it from here, I'm pretty sure my driveway begs to be shoveled. Inside, laundry waits just as patiently to be put away. Earlier this morning, our car was towed out of the garage after Warren heard something “snap” when he backed out to go to work. On the stove, a chicken cooks for dinner, while a cup of hot tea sits idly by. I'm thinking about the thank-you notes I need to write. Meanwhile, Maggie the dog barks as several kids hurl themselves through the door, tracking snow and slush on the floor with each and every step.
On top of this, my mind wanders: we recently buried my aunt Mary after she spent a week in hospital-based hospice care. While we attended Mary's funeral, my sister's mother-in-law died suddenly, less than twenty-four hours after being admitted to the hospital to treat a blood clot in her leg. I'm not complaining, really I'm not. In reality, I hope this story resonates with someone, because goodness knows we have all experienced times when the events of a day, or a week, seem to block the normal flow of our lives: ailing relatives, funeral services, children tracking snow on the floor, broken-down cars, and a driveway to shovel. It just seems that lately, whenever I start to believe I'm going to have a bit more time to write or to sip a cup of tea while it's still hot, the phone rings, the bad news arrives, and I'm called on to do something else, something other than what my feeble mind had planned.
C. S. Lewis once said, “The great thing, if one can, is to stop regarding all the unpleasant things as interruptions of one's ‘own,’ or ‘real’ life. The truth is of course that what one calls the interruptions are precisely one's real life—the life God is sending one day by day; what one calls one's, ‘real life’ is a phantom of one's own imagination.”
Snowy days and sad times may pull me in a million different directions, but all these directions are my life—not a life filled with imaginary people in an imaginary world where cars don't break down and aging relatives live forever, but a life where cups of tea need to be reheated and bits of snow must be wiped off the kitchen floor. Now that I think about it, I guess it's a good thing it's snowing. I don't have anywhere to go. I think I'll bake another yellow buttermilk cake or mix another batch of pimiento cheese to take to my grieving sister and her husband. Driving to Lexington is not what I planned to do this weekend, but I'm going to try to do better at living the life I've been given, one interruption or unpleasant event at a time.
If bourbon is the favorite distilled spirit of Kentucky, buttermilk might be the favorite dairy beverage. In my Kentucky kitchen, buttermilk is a mainstay. I use it as an ingredient in pancakes, biscuits, pies, pound cakes, salad dressings, oven-fried chicken, and cornbread. Or it can be served as a cold beverage—a tart, thick, some would say yogurt-like milk. My uncle Harvey liked it poured into a tall glass and mixed with crumbled saltine crackers.
Old-fashioned buttermilk is the liquid remaining after butter is churned. Modern buttermilk is a cultured milk to which acid or other cultures are added, giving the milk a sour tang and a thick consistency adaptable for many baking and culinary applications.
Keeping buttermilk fresh can be a challenge if it's not used frequently. Homemade buttermilk substitute is easy to make with lemon juice and milk: Measure 1 tablespoon lemon juice into a 2-cup liquid measuring cup. Add milk up to the 1-cup line and stir. Let it sit for 5 minutes to thicken, then use as directed in the recipe.
Buttermilk powder, also called cultured buttermilk blend (SACO Foods), is another option; just mix the powder with water. Although it's not the same as fresh buttermilk, it's a handy ingredient to keep in the pantry, and it makes an acceptable substitute. I use buttermilk powder in Multigrain Flapjack Mix (page 73), a shelf-stable pancake mix that's good for camping, gifts, or keeping in the freezer.
For a serving of local buttermilk, try Trauth Dairy in Newport, founded by Louis Trauth Sr. in 1920. To this day, members of the Trauth family and their employees continue to operate their dairy, now owned by Dean Foods. They produce three varieties of buttermilk—traditional, country style (with real butter flecks), and low fat. There's also Southern Belle Dairy from Somerset. Southern Belle was started in the early 1950s by Ralph Shearer, a dairyman from Monticello. Its cultured buttermilk is a long-standing tradition on many Kentucky tables.
In August, Bardstown hosts a Buttermilk Days Festival, with home cooking, dancing, and music.
In addition to football, the Super Bowl is about food—lots of finger food and cold drinks to wash it down. In the United States, Super Bowl Sunday has been dubbed the second most important food holiday, after Thanksgiving. Portable snacks appropriate for eating in front of the TV or while jumping off the couch to cheer on your team are a must, the only exception being a hot bowl of chili at halftime. Disposable plates and bowls, lots of napkins, and food that doesn't require a knife makes for a casual, football-worthy party. A protein-rich snack such as meatballs, sliders, or chili, and vegetables with creamy or bean dips, and something sweet along with hot coffee for a favorable sendoff all make great menu ideas.
MENU
Cheese Dip with Chutney, Bacon, and Green Onions
Beer Cheese Hummus
White Bean and Chicken Chili
Buffalo-Style Turkey Meatballs
Buffalo Sliders with Smoky Remoulade Sauce (page 262)
Muffulettas (page 101)
Smoky Chili Non Carne (page 289)
Winter Wheat Berry Salad (page 63)
One-Pan Chocolate Chip Pecan Blondies (page 223)
Everything Cookies (page 104)
MAKES 8 SERVINGS
A sweet, salty, portable dip for a party, adapted from Saveur magazine.
½ cup (1 stick) butter, softened
One 8-ounce package Neufchâtel or cream cheese
6 ounces (1½ cups) grated sharp white Cheddar
¾ cup mango chutney
4 slices bacon, cooked crisp and crumbled
2 green onions, thinly sliced
In a bowl, mix together the butter, cream cheese, and Cheddar. Transfer to a wide-mouth bowl or serving platter. Spread the chutney over the cheese mixture. Sprinkle with the crumbled bacon and green onion. Cover and refrigerate until served.
MAKES ABOUT 2½ CUPS
Kentuckians are crazy about beer cheese. This hummus is a dairy-free alternative with the same snappy flavor. Serve with celery sticks, pretzel rods, or cucumber sticks. To flatten the beer, let it sit at room temperature overnight or, for a quicker method, pour a cold beer back and forth between two glasses for about 5 minutes to release the carbonation.
1½ cups cooked, or one 15-ounce can, chickpeas, drained
½ cup roasted red pepper strips
½ cup flat beer
¼ cup tahini
2 cloves garlic, minced
Juice of 1 lemon
2 tablespoons olive oil
½ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper
Place all the ingredients in a blender or food processor, and blend or process until the mixture is smooth. Refrigerate for at least 1 hour for the best flavor.
MAKES 8 SERVINGS
This bean- and chicken-filled chili is an adaptation of the former Louisville restaurant, Timothy's, classic alternative to tomato-based chili. Stir in the chopped cooked chicken at the end of cooking to keep it moist. This recipe can easily be doubled. Also good made with chopped turkey.
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 medium onion, chopped (about 1 cup)
4 cloves garlic, chopped
2 teaspoons ground cumin
1 teaspoon dried oregano
¼ teaspoon ground cloves
1 cup chopped green chilies (two 4-ounce cans)
4 cups reduced-sodium chicken broth
3 cups cooked, or two 15-ounce cans, great Northern beans
4 cups diced cooked chicken
Grated Monterey Jack, for garnish
Salsa verde, for garnish
Sour cream, for garnish
In a Dutch oven, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the onion and cook until golden, about 5 minutes. Stir in the garlic, cumin, oregano, and cloves and cook for about 1 minute. Add the green chilies, chicken broth, and beans. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat to a simmer, and cook for about 20 minutes. Stir in the chicken and cook for about 10 more minutes. Serve topped with cheese, salsa, and sour cream if desired.
MAKES ABOUT 24 MEATBALLS
Not to be confused with buffalo (or bison) meat, these meatballs are a variation on the popular Buffalo (New York) chicken wings. Adjust the quantity of hot red pepper sauce to suit personal preferences for spiciness. Serve with celery sticks and blue cheese dressing for a traditional snack, or try Green Goddess Dressing (page 118) for a more herb-filled variation. For scoop sizes, see page 340.
MEATBALLS
1 pound ground turkey
½ cup bread crumbs
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce
1 tablespoon reduced-sodium soy sauce or tamari
¼ teaspoon salt
⅛ teaspoon cayenne pepper
SAUCE
½ cup (1 stick) butter
½ cup hot red pepper sauce
3 tablespoons Kentucky honey
½ teaspoon garlic powder
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Spray a baking sheet with nonstick cooking spray. In a bowl, mix together all the meatball ingredients. Test the flavor by cooking a small patty in a skillet. If it's seasoned correctly, proceed with shaping the meatballs.
Roll the mixture into meatballs about the size of a golf ball. I use a #40 scoop to ensure a consistent size. Place the meatballs on the prepared baking sheet. Bake for about 20 minutes, or until the meatballs are lightly browned and cooked throughout.
Meanwhile, for the sauce, melt the butter in a saucepan over medium heat. Stir in the hot red pepper sauce, honey, and garlic powder. Coat the cooked meatballs with the sauce. Serve hot.
Some of my favorite go-to meals are meatless and made on the stovetop. I typically have a variety of beans—both canned and dried—on hand. If the spirit moves me, I cook dried beans the old-fashioned way; otherwise, I use canned black or red beans or chickpeas in my favorite skillet bean entrees. To make a satisfying and complete meal, I serve these bean dishes with cooked grains, such as rice, quinoa, or couscous, and a salad, such as Blueberry Spinach Salad (page 160) or Blood Orange Ambrosia (page 27). Silver Dollar Corncakes (page 295) or Buttermilk Cornbread (page 293) also goes well with these meals. Any leftovers can be frozen or refrigerated for a packed lunch or to serve another night.
MAKES 6 SERVINGS
A traditional Hispanic meal is Moors and Christians—saucy black beans served over boiled white rice. These rich beans are a favorite served over rice and topped with diced avocado, chopped green onion, or a dollop of sour cream. Sliced, cooked chicken sausage, smoked sausage, or chunks of cooked chicken can be added to satisfy the diehard meat lover.
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 medium onion, chopped; or 8 green onions, thinly sliced (about 1 cup)
2 small sweet potatoes, peeled and diced (about 2 cups)
4 cloves garlic, minced
2 teaspoons smoked paprika
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon dried oregano
1 bay leaf
½ teaspoon salt
⅛ teaspoon cayenne pepper, optional
3 cups cooked, or two 15-ounce cans, black beans, drained
1½ cups reduced-sodium chicken or vegetable broth
Chopped avocado, for garnish
Sliced green onion, for garnish
In a large skillet, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the onion and sweet potato and cook for about 5 minutes, until softened. Stir in the garlic, paprika, cumin, oregano, bay leaf, salt, and cayenne pepper. Cook for 30 seconds to soften the garlic, but do not scorch the garlic or spices. Stir in the beans and broth. Bring to gentle boil and cook for about 20 minutes, until the sauce thickens. Serve over hot cooked rice and garnish with chopped avocado and green onion if desired.
MAKES 6 SERVINGS
A dish called Chicken Country Captain has long been popular in southern food cookbooks. This meatless curry dish is my nod to that popular recipe and Kentuckians’ love for beans. Cooking the onion until “golden” creates a rich flavor base for the chickpeas (also known as garbanzo beans). Serve with Cardamom Brown Rice (page 62) or Yellow Basmati Rice Pilaf (page 24).
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 medium onion, chopped (about 1 cup)
3 cloves garlic, minced
1 tablespoon sweet curry powder
3 cups cooked, or two 15-ounce cans, chickpeas, drained
1½ cups diced fresh tomatoes or one 15-ounce can diced tomatoes, drained
1 cup reduced-sodium chicken broth
½ cup golden raisins
½ cup minced fresh cilantro or thawed frozen green peas
½ cup plain yogurt, drained
¼ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
In a large skillet, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until golden, about 8 to 10 minutes. Add the garlic and curry powder and continue to cook for 1 more minute, until fragrant. Add the chickpeas, tomatoes, and chicken broth. Bring to a boil, reduce to a simmer, and cook for about 10 minutes to thicken the sauce. Turn off the heat and stir in the raisins, cilantro or peas, yogurt, salt, and pepper. Warm over very low heat, if needed, but be careful not to curdle the yogurt. Serve over hot rice.
MAKES 6 SERVINGS
Serve with hot cooked brown or white rice or with Cilantro Lime Rice (page 62). If the carnivores balk at the concept of meatless red beans, brown ½ pound andouille or smoked sausage before cooking the onion and then proceed with the recipe.
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 medium onion, chopped (about 1 cup)
2 ribs celery, chopped
4 cloves garlic, minced
2 teaspoons dried thyme
3 cups diced fresh tomatoes or two 15-ounce cans diced tomatoes
3 cups cooked, or two 15-ounce cans, red beans, drained
4 green onions, thinly sliced on the diagonal
In a large skillet, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the onion and celery and cook for about 5 minutes, until the onion is softened. Stir in the garlic and thyme and cook for 2 more minutes. Add the diced tomatoes with the juice, and scrape the bottom of the pan to loosen any brown bits. Add the beans and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low and simmer for about 20 minutes, or until the juices thicken. Serve over hot rice and garnish with sliced green onions.
MAKES 8 SERVINGS
This hearty vegetable stew pairs well with Yellow Basmati Rice Pilaf (page 24) or Cilantro Lime Rice (page 62). The best way to peel a butternut squash is very carefully with a very sharp knife or a very sharp ceramic vegetable peeler.
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 large onion, chopped (about 2 cups)
4 cloves garlic, chopped
1 tablespoon minced fresh ginger
1½ teaspoons cinnamon
¾ teaspoon turmeric
⅛ teaspoon cayenne pepper, optional
1 butternut squash, peeled, seeded, and cut into chunks (about 3 cups)
1½ cups reduced-sodium chicken broth, divided
One 28-ounce can diced tomatoes, drained; or 2 large tomatoes, seeded and diced
1½ cups cooked, or one 15-ounce can, chickpeas, drained
½ cup fresh minced cilantro or parsley
In a large skillet, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the onion and cook over medium-high heat until softened and golden, about 8 minutes. Add the garlic, ginger, cinnamon, turmeric, and cayenne pepper, and cook for 1 minute. Add the squash and ½ cup chicken broth. Cover and let cook for about 10 minutes, or until the squash is soft enough to pierce with a fork. Add the tomatoes, chickpeas, and remaining 1 cup chicken broth. Cover and let cook about 10 more minutes, until the vegetables are softened. Stir in the cilantro or parsley. Salt and pepper to taste.
MAKES 6 BURRITOS
The secret to this dish is to get everything ready before rolling the burritos. Keep the assembled burritos warm in the oven while completing the others.
2 tablespoons olive oil
4 cloves garlic, minced
3 cups cooked, or two 15-ounce cans, black beans, drained
½ cup reduced-sodium chicken broth or water
1 teaspoon ground cumin
½ teaspoon smoked paprika
½ teaspoon salt
Six 10-inch flour tortillas (sometimes called burrito size)
4 ounces (1 cup) shredded Cheddar, Colby, or Monterey Jack
Cilantro Lime Rice (page 62)
Preheat the oven to 200°F. In a large skillet, heat the oil over medium-low heat. Add the garlic and cook while stirring for about 1 minute, until just fragrant. Stir in the beans, broth, cumin, paprika, and salt. Reduce the heat to low and simmer for about 10 minutes, until thickened. Prepare the recipe for Cilantro Lime Rice.
When the beans are heated and the rice cooked, heat each tortilla on a warm griddle or in a warm skillet for about 10 seconds on each side. Place the warmed tortilla on a large plate or clean countertop. Spoon ½ cup rice over the bottom third of the tortilla, and top with ½ cup black beans. Sprinkle with 2 tablespoons shredded cheese. Fold the bottom of the tortilla up over the rice and beans, and fold the sides in to almost meet in the center. Roll the burrito into a tight package, tucking in the sides as the tortilla is rolled. Keep them warm in the oven until ready to serve. While rolling one burrito, heat your next tortilla shell. This keeps the assembly line moving. Repeat to make 6 burritos.
Although Kentucky doesn't produce rice, several varieties of rice are grown in the South and elsewhere in the United States. Rice-producing states include South Carolina, Arkansas, California, Louisiana, Mississippi, Missouri, and Texas. Carolina Plantation Rice, grown in South Carolina, and a brand of basmati rice called Texmati are two southern brands. Rice plays a role in the traditional food of Kentucky—rice pudding, stuffed peppers (or stuffed mangoes, as they say in parts of Kentucky), rice casseroles, and, my favorite way to serve rice, alongside a dish of seasoned beans. The following dishes pair well with the skillet bean recipes presented earlier.
With a saucepan that has a tight-fitting lid, both white and brown rice can be cooked on the stovetop at a fraction of the cost of instant rice or instant rice mixes. The basic guideline for rice is 1, 2, 3: 1 cup uncooked rice plus 2 cups water yields 3 cups cooked rice. Two rules when cooking rice are don't lift the lid and don't stir the rice (if you don't do the first, you can't do the second). To cook long-grain rice, combine the uncooked rice and water in a saucepan. Bring to a boil over medium heat. Stir, cover, reduce the heat to low, and let cook for 15 minutes for white rice and about 45 minutes for long-grain brown rice. Turn off the heat and let both sit for at least 5 minutes. Fluff with a fork before serving.
MAKES 3 CUPS RICE, ABOUT 6 SERVINGS
1 cup long-grain white or brown rice
2 cups water
1 tablespoon canola oil
¼ cup chopped fresh cilantro
Juice of 1 lime
Place the rice in a saucepan that has a tight-fitting lid. Stir in the water and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Stir, reduce the heat to low, cover tightly, and allow to cook for 15 minutes for white rice or 45 minutes for brown rice, without removing the lid. Turn off the heat and allow to sit for 5 minutes. Fluff with a fork and stir in the oil, lime juice, and chopped cilantro. Serve warm.
MAKES 3 CUPS RICE, ABOUT 6 SERVINGS
Ground cardamom adds a distinctive spicy taste to this rice pilaf, almost like a sweet black pepper. Brown rice takes a bit longer to cook than white, but the warm brown color and added nutrients are a bonus.
1 tablespoon canola oil
½ small onion, finely chopped (about ¼ cup)
1 teaspoon ground cardamom
1 cup long-grain brown rice
2½ cups water
2 bay leaves
In a saucepan, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the onion and cook for 5 minutes, until golden. Stir in the cardamom and rice and toast the rice for about 1 minute. Add the water and bay leaves. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat to low, cover, and let cook for 45 minutes. Turn off the heat and let the rice rest for 10 minutes. Fluff with a fork and remove the bay leaves before serving.
For local Kentucky flair, consider Bluegrass Soy Sauce. Microbrewed in small batches using only Kentucky-grown, non–genetically modified soybeans, wheat, and limestone-filtered Kentucky spring water, Bluegrass Soy Sauce is a Kentucky original. Fermented and aged in bourbon barrels, this soy sauce has a smoky flavor, with hints of oak and a sweetness reminiscent of Kentucky bourbon.
MAKES ABOUT 12 SERVINGS
This salad, with its variety of chopped fresh ingredients, adds a welcome dose of crunch as well as a splash of seasonal color to any winter meal. Six cups of any cooked whole grain, such as brown rice, quinoa, pearl barley, or bulgur, can be substituted for the wheat berries, but be aware that the cooking times for whole grains vary.
2 cups uncooked wheat berries
1 medium carrot, peeled and grated
1 rib celery, finely chopped
1 medium apple, unpeeled, cored and finely chopped
¼ cup chopped fresh parsley
2 green onions, white and green parts, finely chopped
2 cloves garlic, minced
½ cup dried cranberries or dried cherries
¼ cup olive oil
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
2 tablespoons reduced-sodium soy sauce or tamari
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Place the wheat berries in a saucepan with enough water to cover by a few inches. Bring to a boil, lower heat to a simmer, cover, and cook for 45 minutes. Test for doneness by tasting: the wheat berry should have a soft but chewy texture. If necessary, cover and continue to cook for 15 to 20 minutes, until the desired texture is achieved. Drain the wheat berries and cool to room temperature. Meanwhile, combine the carrot, celery, apple, parsley, green onion, garlic, dried cranberries, olive oil, lemon juice, soy sauce, and pepper. Stir in the cooled wheat berries. Serve at room temperature, or refrigerate until served.
MAKES 4 SERVINGS
Choose any assertive greens for this recipe, but remember that they all will shrink significantly when cooked.
2 pounds kale, collards, turnip greens, or mustard greens, stemmed, washed, and chopped
1 medium onion, chopped (about 1 cup)
4 cloves garlic, sliced
½ teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes
4 cups water
Place all the ingredients in a large Dutch oven. Cover and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low and simmer for about 30 minutes, until the greens are softened but still a nice shade of green. Stir, replace the cover, and continue cooking for 10 more minutes.
Some would argue that Valentine's Day was created by greeting card companies. No matter the motivation, we enjoy celebrating this day devoted to love by exchanging heart-shaped boxes of candy and cooking special meals. (In my family's case, the meal was served on Valentine's Day, but my father brought home the candy on the day after, when Zandale Pharmacy marked it 50 percent off.)
MENU
Flank Steak with Red Wine Pan Sauce
Oven-Roasted Root Vegetables
Modern Caesar Salad with Salt and Pepper Croutons
Warm Chocolate Bourbon Cakes with Brown Sugar Bourbon Whipped Cream
and Rich Chocolate Sauce
MAKES 4 SERVINGS
This is a dazzling dish for a special occasion: thinly sliced flank steak with a dark, shiny pepper-studded sauce.
One 1½-pound flank steak
½ teaspoon kosher salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon butter
¼ cup minced green onion
¼ cup dry red wine (one suitable for drinking)
½ cup beef stock
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
2 tablespoons cracked black peppercorns
¼ cup (½ stick) butter, cut into 1-tablespoon pieces
Season the steak with salt and pepper. Preheat the oven to 200°F, and warm an oven-safe platter in the oven. In a large skillet, heat the butter over medium-high heat. Add the steak and brown on the first side for 4 minutes. Turn and brown for 4 minutes on the other side. Reduce the heat to low and cook for about 4 more minutes for a medium-rare steak. Adjust the cooking time for the desired degree of doneness. Place the steak on the warm platter.
In the same skillet, cook the green onion in the pan juices over medium-high heat. Add the red wine and cook, scraping the browned bits off the bottom of the pan. Let the wine reduce and thicken for about 1 minute. Stir in the beef stock, mustard, and peppercorns, and bring to a boil to reduce by half, about 5 minutes. Slowly whisk in 1 tablespoon of butter at a time, letting it melt and blend into the sauce before adding the next one. Thinly slice the steak and serve with the pan sauce.
MAKES 6 SERVINGS
Earthy roasted root vegetables are the highlight of a winter meal and are a colorful alternative to potatoes. For variety, I include chunks of red-skinned potato, butternut squash, sweet potato, and sometimes large cloves of fresh garlic. Cut all the vegetables the same size so they cook evenly and at the same rate.
1 pound baby carrots or whole carrots, peeled and sliced
1 large onion, peeled and cut into chunks
4 parsnips, peeled and cut into chunks
¼ cup olive oil
2 teaspoons dried thyme
1 teaspoon kosher salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Preheat the oven to 400°F. In a large bowl, toss together all the ingredients. Transfer the mixture to a rimmed baking sheet and bake for 45 to 50 minutes, or until soft and golden brown. Stir once during cooking. Serve warm or at room temperature.
MAKES 4 SERVINGS
This salad includes all the classic ingredients except a raw egg—thus the term modern.
SALT AND PEPPER CROUTONS
4 ounces hearty bread, cut into 1-inch cubes
2 tablespoons olive oil
½ teaspoon dried thyme
½ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
SALAD AND DRESSING
1 head romaine lettuce or 2 romaine hearts
1 clove garlic, minced
6 anchovy fillets or 2 tablespoons anchovy paste
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce
½ cup mayonnaise
Juice of 1 lemon
½ cup shredded Parmesan
Preheat the oven to 400°F. In a bowl, mix together the bread cubes, olive oil, thyme, salt, and pepper. Spread on a rimmed baking sheet and bake until golden brown, about 15 minutes. Allow to cool.
Meanwhile, for the salad, wash the lettuce and tear it into bite-sized pieces. In a bowl, whisk together the garlic, anchovy, Dijon, Worcestershire sauce, mayonnaise, and lemon juice. Toss the dressing with the lettuce and stir in the croutons and Parmesan.
It's easy to participate in the chocolate frenzy with Jamieson's chocolate manufactured in Mt. Sterling. Made with 100 percent Ghana cocoa bean chocolate, Jamieson's is a smooth and delectable treat available in a range of cocoa solids, from robust dark at 70 percent to rich milk at 37.8 percent.
MAKES 6 SERVINGS
These cakes can be served right from the oven or made ahead of time and refrigerated. To reheat the cakes, place in a microwave oven on 50 percent power for 20 to 30 seconds.
4 ounces bittersweet chocolate
½ cup (1 stick) butter
2 large eggs plus 2 large egg yolks
⅓ cup sugar
2 tablespoons unbleached all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon Kentucky bourbon
Preheat the oven to 300°F. Spray a 6-cup muffin tin with nonstick cooking spray. Place the chocolate and butter in a double boiler and heat until melted. With an electric mixer, beat the eggs, egg yolks, and sugar until pale and lemon colored, about 4 minutes. Beat in the flour 1 tablespoon at a time. Add the bourbon and melted butter and chocolate. Beat for 4 more minutes, until light and fluffy. Pour the batter into the prepared muffin tin. Bake until the cakes pull away from the sides of the pan, about 15 to 18 minutes. The center of the cake may look “uncooked,” but this is okay. Remove from the oven and let sit for 5 minutes. To remove the cakes from the pan, place a serving plate or baking sheet on top of the muffin tin and invert. Serve with a large spoonful of Brown Sugar Bourbon Whipped Cream and a drizzle of Rich Chocolate Sauce (recipes follow), if desired.
MAKES ABOUT 2 CUPS
The brown sugar and bourbon result in a tan-colored whipped cream. Read more about whipping cream on page 242.
1 cup heavy whipping cream
1 tablespoon Kentucky bourbon
¼ cup light brown sugar
Place the cream, the bowl, and the electric beaters or whisk in the freezer for 10 minutes. In the chilled bowl, mix the bourbon and brown sugar until the sugar is dissolved. Add the heavy cream and beat with an electric mixer until thick.
MAKES ABOUT 1 CUP
½ cup heavy cream
½ cup chopped bittersweet chocolate
In a small saucepan, heat the cream over high heat until it begins to steam. Place the chopped chocolate in a glass or stainless-steel bowl. Pour the cream over the chocolate. Cover with a piece of plastic wrap. Let stand for 10 minutes. Uncover and whisk until smooth. Store at room temperature for up to 1 hour, or keep in the refrigerator. To gently warm the sauce after refrigeration, place in a microwave and heat in 10- to 15-second intervals, stirring in between.