In the end, all journeys are spiritual. So go off the main road. Be givers of hospitality and gracious takers of it too. Accept the serendipitous moments of life because, when all is said and done, you may find out that they were not serendipitous at all. And know that faith is as real as bread broken among friends.—ALTON BROWN
The start of the new year is like a clean slate, the beginning of twelve months of new opportunities in the kitchen. The first week in January is a time to unwind and relax after the holidays. Then, at the end of the month, I often wonder how thirty-one days could have passed so quickly. January is the first full month of winter, wrapped in days of expanding light. While the low sun skirts the snow- or frost-covered landscape, January days are bright, cold, and brilliant. Nights remain dark and long, and the January full moon is breathtaking when snow blankets my backyard. All sounds are muted, the air is quiet, and everything else is so still.
In my kitchen, winter's daytime sun blares through the south-facing windows, revealing every fingerprint and smudge on my cabinet and refrigerator doors. Outside the back door my herbs and raised garden bed are covered with snow. Above the ground, no plants are alive. If my family ate what's seasonal in January, snowballs and icicles would grace the menu.
So what's a cook to do? Despite the lack of growth in the garden, my kitchen doesn't slow down in January. I shop at the local supermarket and continue to cook all month long. Until the 1950s, most Kentuckians didn't have the luxury of large supermarkets, so cooks worked diligently in late summer and fall to preserve meats, fruits, vegetables, and even herbs for cooking during the winter. Home-canned, root-cellared, smoked, salted, and dried foods created the bulk of their meals. In the current food landscape, supermarkets eliminate the uncertainty of whether we have stored enough food to make it through the winter. Modern methods of food processing and transportation have all but eliminated the need to preserve food. Many still do, but today, food preservation is a choice, not a necessity.
Despite the wide availability of produce that knows no season, such as January strawberries and November asparagus, I try to create a wintertime kitchen that follows a different rhythm and not give in to the temptations of continuously available produce shipped in from around the world. I take advantage of relatively nearby growers in Florida, California, and Texas and enjoy the citrus fruits that these warm climates are capable of producing. I utilize frozen and canned ingredients when necessary, and I selectively buy fresh produce such as broccoli, winter squash, potatoes, parsley, lemons, onions, garlic, and even lettuce for salad. But in an effort to reduce the amount of miles my fresh produce travels, I buy food that comes from as close to Kentucky as possible.
Another way to celebrate wintertime is to enjoy winter-worthy cooking methods such as baking, braising, stewing, and roasting. It's cold outside, and our homes are sealed off to the cold. Heating up the kitchen is a welcome activity, and the aromas from a home-cooked meal call family and friends to the dinner table. I light the fireplace and tend the oven during the month of January. It's a time to settle in and enjoy January for what it is—an opportunity to have guests over for dinner, and a time to anticipate the gardens, barnyards, and landscapes that will come alive a few months from now. January is a time to gather in the kitchen on a cold winter day and enjoy the bounty of ingredients and the craft of cooking.
Fresh muffins are a scrumptious way to start the day. Muffins have the best flavor when they are eaten within a day or two of baking. Baked, cooled muffins travel well, so they are easy to take to work or school; they also freeze well. The batter can be made the night before, kept in the refrigerator overnight, and baked in the morning.
MAKES 9 LARGE MUFFINS
This tender muffin showcases two of Kentucky's favorite ingredients—cornmeal and buttermilk. I fill the muffin cups to the brim to ensure a tall, high-capped muffin. Blueberries are not in season in January, but frozen blueberries are readily available. In June, I switch to fresh blueberries, and if I have time, I freeze some for later use.
1 cup low-fat buttermilk
½ cup yellow or white cornmeal
2¼ cups unbleached all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon baking soda
¼ teaspoon salt
½ cup canola oil
1 cup sugar
Zest from 1 lemon
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
2 large eggs
1 cup frozen or fresh blueberries
Preheat the oven to 400°F. Spray a 12-cup muffin pan with nonstick cooking spray. Mix together the buttermilk and cornmeal. Set aside. Whisk together the flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt. In another bowl, whisk the oil, sugar, lemon zest, vanilla, and eggs for about 2 minutes, until light in color and fluffy in texture. Blend in the buttermilk and cornmeal mixture. With a silicone spatula, fold in the flour mixture until just blended. Gently fold in the blueberries. Use a large spoon or scoop to fill each muffin cup almost to the brim. Fill any empty muffin cups halfway with water. Bake for 18 to 20 minutes until the muffins are golden brown and they spring back when gently poked with the fingertips. When using frozen blueberries, the muffins take a bit longer to bake because the frozen fruit cools the batter. Let the muffins cool in the pan for 5 minutes and then transfer them to a wire rack to finish cooling.
MAKES 8 LARGE MUFFINS
This sweet, modernized version of Shaker pumpkin muffins is a snap to mix and bake. My father, Carl P. Kroboth, introduced me and my siblings to Shaker Village (or as we called it, “Shakertown”) back in the 1970s. As a civil engineer, he designed roads and bridges during the week, but on the weekends he loved to drive us around Kentucky (often on the very roads he designed), exploring historic sites, nature preserves, and state parks. One frequent stop was Shaker Village of Pleasant Hill. Located near Harrodsburg, this restored Shaker village (the largest in the United States) boasts 3,000 acres of farmland and more than thirty restored buildings. Other Shaker-inspired recipes in this book are Shaker Cornsticks (page 292) and Shaker Lemon Pie (page 89).
1¾ cups unbleached all-purpose flour
¼ teaspoon baking powder
1 teaspoon baking soda
¾ teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon cinnamon
2 large eggs
1 cup pumpkin puree
1 cup sugar
½ cup canola oil
⅓ cup water
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
½ cup chopped walnuts or pecans
½ cup raisins
⅓ cup ground flax seed
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Spray a 12-cup muffin pan with nonstick cooking spray. Whisk together the flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt, and cinnamon. In a separate bowl, whisk together the eggs, pumpkin, sugar, oil, water, and vanilla. Fold the pumpkin mixture into the flour. Stir in the chopped walnuts, raisins, and flax seed. Use a large spoon or scoop to fill each muffin cup almost to the brim. Bake for 20 to 22 minutes, or until the muffins spring back when gently poked with the fingertips. Let them cool in the pan for 5 minutes and then transfer to a wire rack to finish cooling.
A few years ago I hosted a New Year's Day brunch for my family. In addition to my overwhelming desire to throw a party, I extended the invitation for other reasons: my nieces were in town, and we hadn't seen them at Christmas; my sister Barbara was leaving for a four-month sabbatical at Oxford; and my sister Theresa had extended her visit to Lexington to help our mother get her house ready to place on the market. Mom had lived in the family home for more than thirty-five years, and back in the days when we were a family of ten, the house had buzzed with activity. Dad had been gone for almost five years, and with the exception of a few nights around Thanksgiving and Christmas, Mom spent most nights alone in the large three-story home. I didn't think this transition would be easy for Mom, but I hoped the move would allow her to forge ahead without the expense and burden of a large house.
The scene at brunch was pretty typical. When my family gets together, we always have a lot of catching up to do, and we usually do so as we sit around the kitchen table. So on that New Year's Day we sat around my kitchen table, shared a meal, and caught up on the family news: our cousin was having some surgery, our niece was studying abroad in France, and of course, we discussed the odds of the University of Kentucky beating the University of Louisville in basketball. Sometimes my sister Anne multitasks and crochets while she talks, but for the most part, when we're together we just sit and talk.
As Mom was packing up her stuff, getting ready to leave my house, she said, “Well, when I move I guess all I need is a kitchen table. That's the only place we ever sit.” And, after further reflection, I realized she's right. An impeccably decorated living room or a roaring fire in the fireplace can't keep us away from the kitchen table. Over the years, a table has brought our family together for many reasons, and at many locations, to share meals, stories, games, and tears. After Mom moves, no matter where we gather, we'll continue to make our way to the kitchen table and pick up where we left off. We'll listen to tales about travel, and we'll discuss our plans for the upcoming year.
It's inevitable—time marches on. We grow, change, and live our lives. But one place remains—the kitchen table. It patiently waits for us to return and talk about days gone by because our nourishment comes not only from what we eat there but also from those we meet there.
I can't talk about Kentucky ingredients without mentioning beans of every kind—half-runners, dried beans, shucky beans, baked beans, and soup beans. One variety, the Kentucky Wonder pole bean, even bears the name of the Bluegrass State. Beans appear on the Kentucky dinner table in a variety of forms, and they have done so since long before the pioneers made their way to our region. Similar to corn, beans are hearty and filling. They grow prolifically and love the hot Kentucky sun and soil. Bean plants are not deterred by the rocky Kentucky hillsides. Beans nourish us, add variety to our meals, and, because they dry well, feed us in the wintertime.
Beans come in varieties almost too numerous to count. Field or dry beans have a thin, inedible pod; the inner seeds are dried and retain their shape during cooking. Dual-purpose beans have an edible pod and a fleshy inner seed that is eaten fresh or dried. String, green, snap, and French beans are eaten fresh (page 206). Lima beans are most often cooked from the dry state; their creamy sister the butter bean, a cooked-from-fresh inner seed, reigns supreme in Burgoo (page 125) and in Sweet Bourbon Baked Beans (page 183).
Soup beans are the signature dish of the mountainous regions of Kentucky. In Appalachia, pinto beans are the bean of choice—long-simmered with a piece of pork and served with a slice of hot cornbread, diced or sliced onions, and sometimes a dollop of sweet pickle relish. Seasoned, cooked dried beans served over rice are popular in the South, especially along the Louisiana and South Carolina coasts. And who can forget bowls of Hoppin’ John on New Year's Day, similar to Spicy Stewed Black-Eyed Peas and Kale (page 31)? For more bean and rice dishes, see page 55. Fresh whole green beans, often paired with fresh herbs or new potatoes, are discussed in more detail in the chapter on July, when they are prolific and in season.
In Florence, the annual Bean Bash is held at Turfway Park every October. Started in the summer of 1974 by Kentucky Representative Bill McBee, the Bean Bash was initially a political fund-raiser, as many food-centric events are. The Bean Bash menu includes bean soup, tomatoes, slaw, and cornbread. The famous Bean Supper and Drama in Boyle County draws record crowds every year. Dedicated volunteers start cooking the beans early in the morning, and the smell wafts around the adjacent Forkland Heritage Festival and Revue, where visitors can sit back, relax, watch the performance, and enjoy beans, cornbread, and an assortment of pies.
Wintertime cooking methods consist of braising, stewing, and roasting. The warmth they add to the home and kitchen insulates everyone from the cold, windy nights of January. Following are three full dinner menus to enjoy with friends.
MENU
Winter Chopped Salad
Slow-Roasted Pork Shoulder
Fresh Parsley Sauce
Yellow Basmati Rice Pilaf
Warm Bread Pudding with Kentucky Bourbon Sauce
MAKES 12 SERVINGS
Inspired by a recipe from The Oregonian, this salad contains winter fruits, hearty greens, and nuts.
SALAD
5 ounces mixed salad greens or baby spinach (about 5 cups)
1 head radicchio
2 medium Gala or Golden Delicious apples, cored and cut into small pieces
1 cup dried cranberries
½ cup chopped pecans, toasted
½ cup crumbled soft goat cheese
DRESSING
3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
1 tablespoon coarse-grain mustard
1 tablespoon Kentucky honey
6 tablespoons olive oil
¼ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
With a large knife, chop the salad greens or spinach and the radicchio, and place them on a large salad platter or in a large, shallow salad bowl. For the dressing, whisk together the lemon juice, mustard, honey, oil, salt, and pepper. Drizzle half the dressing on the greens and toss. Top with the chopped apple, cranberries, pecans, and goat cheese. Drizzle with the remaining dressing. Season to taste with black pepper.
MAKES ABOUT 12 SERVINGS
Roasted pork shoulder is a staple in many countries from Mexico to Venezuela, and pork is, of course, a Kentucky favorite. Ideal for feeding a crowd, this simple, inexpensive entrée requires little preparation, and leftovers are almost always guaranteed for use in soup, quesadillas, or pulled pork sandwiches. Pork shoulder is hard to overcook, so give it plenty of time. Instead of Yellow Basmati Rice Pilaf, this pork roast can also be served with Smoky Black Beans with Sweet Potatoes (page 56). Another favorite recipe for pork shoulder is Ale-8 One Slow Cooker Pork Barbecue (page 175).
One 5-pound bone-in pork shoulder
5 cloves garlic, peeled
1 large onion, peeled and quartered
¼ cup red wine vinegar
3 tablespoons canola oil
1 tablespoon dried oregano
2 teaspoons chili powder
1 tablespoon sugar
1 tablespoon kosher salt
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Place a rack in a roasting pan and spray with nonstick cooking spray. Place the pork on the rack, fat side up. In a blender, combine the garlic, onion, vinegar, oil, oregano, chili powder, sugar, salt, and pepper. Blend until smooth. Use a small knife to make a crisscross pattern on top of the pork, and make several slits in the meat. Rub the garlic mixture over the pork, and poke some of it into the slits. Refrigerate for at least 2 hours or up to 12 hours before roasting.
Preheat the oven to 300°F. Place the pork in the oven and slowly roast for 4 to 4 ½ hours, or until fork tender. Let the meat cool enough to slice it or pull it off the bone. Serve warm.
MAKES ABOUT 2 CUPS
I learned how to make parsley sauce from my friend Ethan Becker. Similar to a South American chimchurri sauce, this sauce pairs well with any roasted or grilled meat—beef, lamb, pork, or chicken. To prevent the oils in the jalapeno from burning the skin while seeding and chopping the peppers, wear a pair of thin latex or kitchen gloves.
1 large bunch parsley
1 fresh jalapeno pepper, halved and seeded
1 clove garlic, roughly chopped
½ cup olive oil
¼ cup balsamic vinegar
½ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Chop the woody or tough parts of the stem off the parsley and place the leaves in a food processor bowl with the metal blade. Add the jalapeno, garlic, oil, vinegar, salt, and pepper. Process for 10 seconds and scrape down the sides of the bowl. Process again until smooth, adding more olive oil if needed to achieve the consistency of applesauce. Store covered until ready to serve (up to 24 hours).
MAKES 3 CUPS RICE, ABOUT 6 SERVINGS
Basmati rice has an enchanting, subtle fragrance, and due to its long-grain texture, it makes a fluffy side dish. Any variety of long-grain white rice can be substituted for the basmati.
1 tablespoon canola oil
½ small onion, finely chopped (about ¼ cup)
1 cup basmati rice
½ teaspoon ground coriander
½ teaspoon sweet paprika
½ teaspoon turmeric
¼ teaspoon salt
2 cups water
In a saucepan, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the onion and cook for about 5 minutes, until golden. Stir in the rice, coriander, paprika, turmeric, and salt and toast the rice and spices for about 1 minute, until fragrant. Add the water and bring to a boil. Stir, cover, reduce the heat to low, and cook for 15 minutes. Turn off the heat and let sit for 10 minutes. Fluff with a fork before serving.
MAKES ABOUT 12 SERVINGS
Born of thrift, bread pudding is the creation of inspired cooks reluctant to throw away stale bread. Any firm loaf of day-old French bread makes a good pudding.
PUDDING
One 12-ounce loaf French bread
4 cups whole milk
3 large eggs
1 cup sugar
2 tablespoons Kentucky bourbon or pure vanilla extract
1 cup raisins, optional
BOURBON SAUCE
½ cup (1 stick) butter
1 cup powdered sugar
1 large egg, well beaten
2 tablespoons Kentucky bourbon (or more to taste)
For the pudding, preheat the oven to 350°F. Bring a saucepan of water to a boil for the water bath. Spray a 13×9×2-inch baking dish with nonstick cooking spray. Break the bread into four or more pieces, and place in a large bowl. Pour the milk over the bread and mash together until the bread is saturated and mixed with the milk. Stir in the eggs, sugar, bourbon, and raisins. Pour the pudding into the prepared baking dish. Place the baking dish in a large, shallow roasting pan, and place the roasting pan on the middle oven rack. Pour the boiling water into the roasting pan, around the baking dish, about halfway up the sides. Carefully push the rack into the oven and bake for about 45 minutes, or until the pudding is very firm. Carefully remove the dish of pudding from the water, and place it on a rack. (Don't try to remove the roasting pan filled with hot water until it has cooled.)
Meanwhile, for the sauce, melt the butter in a double boiler over boiling water, and stir in the sugar until well dissolved. Add the egg, whipping very fast with a whisk so the egg won't curdle. When very smooth, remove from the heat. Stir in the bourbon. Keep the sauce warm until ready to serve. Do not allow the sauce to get too hot, or the eggs will scramble.
When ready to serve, cut the pudding into cubes and place in individual serving dishes. Top with warm bourbon sauce.
Boiling, poaching, or just plain old cooking a chicken is an economical way to obtain fresh homemade chicken broth and cooked chicken for salads, soups, dumplings, or chicken pie. The process fills the air in my kitchen with a glorious aroma. Most chickens yield about 1 cup of cooked chicken per pound: for example, a 4-pound chicken yields about 4 cups of cooked chicken meat. I strain the broth into 1-quart glass jars and store it in the refrigerator. It can also be frozen in freezer-safe, 2-cup containers.
One 3½- to 4-pound split or whole chicken or chicken pieces
1 onion, roughly chopped
2 ribs celery, roughly chopped
2 cloves garlic, smashed
5 peppercorns
2 bay leaves
10 to 12 cups water
Place the chicken in a Dutch oven or soup pot. Add onion, celery, garlic, peppercorns, and bay leaves. Pour in enough water to cover the chicken by 1 inch. Turn the heat to medium, and bring the chicken to a gentle boil. Spoon off any foam that forms on top of the broth. Reduce to a simmer and cook for about 1 hour, or until the chicken is falling off the bone. Remove the chicken to a platter to cool. Continue to simmer the broth for 30 minutes to enhance the flavor. Strain the broth and pull the meat off the bones. Refrigerate both until needed.
Blood Orange Ambrosia
Chicken Pie
Vanilla Bourbon Cup Custards
MAKES 8 SERVINGS
Winter begs for fresh fruit, and although none grows in Kentucky in January, this twist on a southern favorite takes advantage of the fresh citrus fruit grown in warmer regions of the United States. If blood oranges aren't available, substitute any seedless navel orange.
1 pineapple, cored and cut into chunks
5 seedless blood oranges (white pith removed), cut into chunks
1 cup shredded coconut
Place all the ingredients in a bowl and gently mix. Cover and refrigerate for at least 2 hours before serving.
MAKES 1 PIE
This is a rich dish with terrific homemade appeal. With the buttery crust and fresh vegetables and parsley in the filling, this pie is sure to please a crowd.
CRUST
1½ cups unbleached all-purpose flour
½ teaspoon salt
¾ cup (1½ sticks) butter, cut into 1-inch slices
3 to 4 tablespoons ice water
FILLING
¼ cup (½ stick) butter
1 medium onion, chopped (about 1 cup)
4 carrots, peeled and diced
2 celery ribs, thinly sliced
½ cup unbleached all-purpose flour
½ teaspoon dried thyme
1½ cups milk
1½ cups reduced-sodium chicken broth
¼ cup dry white wine, optional (one suitable for drinking)
4 cups chopped, cooked chicken
½ cup frozen green peas
¼ cup chopped fresh parsley
1 teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 large egg
For the crust, place the flour, salt, and butter in a food processor with the metal blade. Pulse until the butter is chopped into pea-size pieces. Add 3 tablespoons of the ice water and pulse the processor about 10 times, or just until the dough starts to form a ball. Add the final tablespoon of water if necessary to form the dough. Place the dough onto a piece of plastic wrap, and fold the plastic around the dough to seal it. Press the dough into a disc. Refrigerate for at least 1 hour.
For the pie, preheat the oven to 400°F. Spray a 13×9×2-inch baking dish with nonstick cooking spray. In a large skillet, melt the butter over medium heat. Add the onion, carrot, and celery, and cook until softened, about 10 minutes. Add the flour and thyme, and stir until all the flour is absorbed. Stir in the milk, broth, and wine. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat to medium low, and simmer until thickened, about 5 minutes. Add the chicken, peas, parsley, salt, and pepper. Pour the filling into the prepared dish. On a floured surface, roll the dough out to about an 11×15-inch rectangle. Place the dough over the filling, and crimp the edges or press them with a fork. With a thin knife, cut several V-shaped vents in the crust. Mix the egg with about 1 tablespoon of water, and brush the egg wash over the top of the crust. Place the pie on a baking sheet. Bake for 45 minutes, until the crust is golden brown and the filling is bubbly. Chicken Pie is best when served soon after baking. The filling reheats well, but the crust is not as crispy.
MAKES 6 SERVINGS
My grandmother was known for her homemade boiled custard, which she made when her children were sick because she believed in the healing power of high-protein eggs. Back then, custard was also an economical dessert, as most Kentucky families had access to eggs and milk, particularly those who lived on farms. Even today, these simple cup custards are an elegant way to end a meal.
1 tablespoon softened butter
6 large egg yolks
6 tablespoons sugar
1 tablespoon Kentucky bourbon
1½ cups heavy cream
Preheat the oven to 275°F. Bring 4 cups water to a boil and set aside. Butter six ½-cup ramekins and set them in a 13×9×by 2-inch glass baking dish. In a medium bowl, whisk the egg yolks until slightly thickened. Add the sugar and bourbon, and whisk until the sugar is dissolved. Mix in the cream until well blended. Pour the mixture into the prepared ramekins. Set the baking dish on the middle oven rack. Pour enough boiling water into the baking dish to reach halfway up the sides of the ramekins. Bake uncovered until the custard is barely set, about 45 minutes. Serve warm, or refrigerate until served.
Winter Citrus Salad with Arugula
Spicy Stewed Black-Eyed Peas and Kale
Yellow Basmati Rice Pilaf (page 24)
Warm Bread Pudding with Kentucky Bourbon Sauce (page 25)
MAKES 6 SERVINGS
The peppery bite of arugula pairs well with fresh citrus, making a tasty, refreshing wintertime salad. Although citrus fruits don't grow in Kentucky at any time of the year, they do enjoy domestic seasonality. Winter is the best time to buy fresh citrus fruits from Florida, California, and Texas.
SALAD
4 ounces baby arugula (about 4 cups)
6 oranges, peeled and sliced into rounds
½ small red onion, thinly sliced (about ½ cup)
2 ounces Parmesan shreds
DRESSING
2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
⅓ cup olive oil
¼ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Arrange the arugula on a large platter or in a large, shallow salad bowl. In another bowl, whisk together the vinegar, mustard, oil, salt, and pepper. Drizzle half the dressing on the greens and toss. Arrange the orange slices on top of the arugula. Scatter the red onion on top of the oranges. Drizzle with more dressing, and top with Parmesan shreds. Season with additional freshly ground black pepper.
MAKES 12 SERVINGS
Beans are considered a source of good luck and prosperity, so it's not unusual to find a pot of beans on Kentucky stoves in January. My husband's family cooked a batch of navy beans every New Year's Day. The earthy flavor of black-eyed peas makes this legume a favorite in our house. This recipe was inspired by a recipe I tested for B. Smith's book B. Cooks Southern-Style. For a vegetarian version, skip the diced ham. Either way, season to your preferred level of spiciness with cayenne pepper.
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 medium onion, chopped (about 1 cup)
2 ribs celery, chopped
2 carrots, peeled and chopped
6 ounces diced ham
4 cloves garlic, minced
1 teaspoon dried thyme
1 bay leaf
½ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper
Two 12-ounce bags frozen black-eyed peas (about 5 cups)
3 cups chopped fresh kale
6 cups reduced-sodium chicken broth
In a Dutch oven, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the onion, celery, and carrots and cook until softened, about 5 minutes. Add the ham, garlic, thyme, bay leaf, salt, and cayenne pepper. Cook and stir for 1 minute. Add the black-eyed peas, kale, and broth. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat to low, and simmer, partially covered, for 45 minutes to 1 hour, or until the beans are tender.
It might seem unusual to offer recipes for Italian food in a Kentucky cookbook, but in Northern Kentucky, something would be amiss if we didn't discuss Italian food.
In the late 1800s Italian immigrants settled in Newport, particularly in the hilltop section of Newport called Clifton, or Spaghetti Knob. Like the German immigrants in the area, the Italians founded churches, worked at the local mills and tailor shops, opened small businesses, and fought in World Wars I and II. Despite their assimilation into Northern Kentucky life, they kept Italy alive in their homes and through their food.
Pompilios Restaurant is an example of the Italian influence in Northern Kentucky. Nestled in the heart of Newport at 600 Washington Street, Pompilios sells made-from-scratch ravioli, lasagna, soups, and sauces, just as it has since 1933, when immigrants John Pompilio and his wife Johanna opened the restaurant. Complete with outdoor bocce courts, and home to Pompilios Bocce League, Pompilios boasts a hand-crafted mahogany bar and the first liquor license issued in Kentucky after the end of Prohibition.
For nineteen years Newport has been home to an Italian Festival. Held along Newport's Riverboat Row between the Taylor-Southgate and L&N bridges, this festival boasts authentic Italian food and music. The Family Photo Booth showcases the history of Newport's Italian families, and a cooking contest allows local residents to share their love of Italian food.
The secret to cooking pasta is a large pot of boiling water. For each pound of pasta, use at least 1 gallon of water. Add about ½ teaspoon of salt, cover, and bring to a rolling boil. Add the pasta, stir, and bring back to a boil. Stir again to prevent the pasta from sticking together. Allow the pasta to boil for the required time. In general, dry pasta cooks in 9 to 11 minutes, depending on its size and shape. After the pasta is cooked, drain it in a large colander. To proceed with a hot pasta dish, toss the hot pasta with the sauce immediately. If the sauce isn't going to be added right away, rinse the cooked pasta with warm or hot running water, return it to the pot, and toss it with 1 tablespoon of olive or canola oil. If it isn't rinsed, the pasta will turn into a “pasta rug.” For a pasta salad or other cold pasta dish, rinse the cooked pasta with cold water to remove the starch and cool the pasta. Pour the pasta into a bowl, and proceed with the recipe as directed.
MAKES ABOUT 10 SERVINGS
I don't claim to be Italian, but I do know that my homemade meat sauce beats any jarred sauce hands down. I use one of my favorite brands of canned crushed tomatoes, such as Red Gold or Dei Fratelli. For a meatless sauce, 1 pound of sliced, cooked mushrooms can be substituted for the ground chuck, or see the recipe for Spicy Marinara Sauce (page 34). I crush the dried herbs between the palms of my hands while adding them to the sauce to release the essential oils.
1 pound ground chuck
2 tablespoons olive oil
6 cloves garlic, chopped
½ cup red wine (one suitable for drinking)
2 tablespoons dried basil
2 teaspoons dried oregano
1 teaspoon dried rosemary
1 teaspoon dried thyme
2 tablespoons sugar
1 teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes
Two 28-ounce cans (6 cups) crushed tomatoes
In a large skillet, brown the ground chuck over medium heat and cook until the beef is no longer pink. Drain off any moisture or fat from the beef. Stir in the olive oil and garlic. Cook for about 3 minutes to soften the garlic. Add the red wine and let it cook until the wine is reduced, scraping any browned bits off the bottom of the skillet. Add the basil, oregano, rosemary, thyme, sugar, salt, and crushed red pepper flakes. Stir for about 1 minute to combine. Stir in the crushed tomatoes and cook over medium-low heat for at least 20 minutes or up to 1 hour, if time permits.
MAKES ABOUT 6 CUPS
My homemade version of a meatless tomato sauce is classic for tossing with hot pasta or surrounding a pan of Homemade Italian Meatballs (page 35). For a chunkier texture, substitute a can of diced tomatoes for one can of the crushed.
¼ cup olive oil
8 cloves garlic, finely chopped
½ teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes
¼ cup red wine (one suitable for drinking)
Two 28-ounce cans (6 cups) crushed tomatoes
3 tablespoons dried basil
1 teaspoon dried thyme
1 tablespoon sugar
1 teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
In a large skillet, heat the oil over medium-low heat. Add the chopped garlic and red pepper flakes and cook, stirring occasionally, for about 2 minutes. Do not allow the garlic to brown. Add the red wine and let it boil to reduce for about 1 minute. Stir in the crushed tomatoes, basil, thyme, sugar, salt, and pepper. Bring to a simmer and cook for about 30 minutes, or until slightly thickened.
MAKES ABOUT 24 MEATBALLS
These meatballs are hard to beat when simmered in Spicy Marinara Sauce (page 34) and served over hot pasta. For a variation, see Buffalo-Style Turkey Meatballs (page 54). I use a #40 scoop to shape the meatballs. This keeps my hands clean and keeps the meatballs a consistent size (about 1½ tablespoons, or ¾ ounce, of meat).
1 pound ground chuck or ground turkey
½ cup dried bread crumbs
2 cloves garlic, minced
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 tablespoons red wine (one suitable for drinking)
2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce
1 teaspoon dried basil
1 teaspoon dried thyme
⅛ teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes
½ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
½ cup finely grated Parmesan or Romano
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Spray a baking sheet with nonstick cooking spray. In a bowl, combine all the ingredients without packing the meat too tightly. To test the flavors, shape some of the mixture into a small patty and cook it in a skillet. If it's seasoned satisfactorily, proceed with shaping the meatballs. Break off golf ball-sized pieces and roll them into balls. Place the meatballs on the prepared baking sheet. Bake for 20 minutes. If desired, drop the cooked meatballs into your favorite sauce and simmer in the sauce for about 15 more minutes.
To freeze cooked meatballs, let them cool, place them in a single layer on a baking sheet, and freeze for about 1 hour. Store the meatballs in a zip-top freezer bag. To reheat, place the meatballs in a covered saucepan with sauce and bring the sauce to a boil. Cover and cook over low heat for about 20 minutes, stirring occasionally.
MAKES 8 SERVINGS
I always find myself tempted to add more pasta to this recipe, but because the pasta swells as it cooks and absorbs much of the broth, it's important not to use too much.
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 medium onion, chopped (about 1 cup)
4 carrots, peeled and chopped
2 ribs celery, thinly sliced
2 cloves garlic, chopped
1 tablespoon dried basil
1 teaspoon dried thyme
½ teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes
½ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
3 cups cooked, or two 15-ounce cans, great Northern or navy beans, drained
1½ cups diced fresh tomatoes, or one 15-ounce can diced tomatoes
8 cups reduced-sodium chicken broth
½ cup small-shaped pasta (macaroni, ditalini, stars, or orzo)
4 cups thinly sliced fresh kale
½ cup shredded Parmesan, for garnish
Olive oil, for garnish
In a Dutch oven, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the onion, carrot, and celery and cook about 8 to 10 minutes, or until softened and golden. Stir in the garlic, basil, thyme, red pepper flakes, salt, and pepper. Cook and stir for about 1 minute to blend the flavors. Add the beans, tomatoes, chicken broth, pasta, and kale. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat to a simmer, and keep stirring every few minutes for about 5 minutes to keep the pasta from sticking to the bottom of the pan. Then partially cover and simmer for 20 minutes. Serve garnished with shredded Parmesan and a drizzle of olive oil.
Nothing stirs the soul like a hot bowl of soup when the weather turns cold. Soup warms me up, thaws the chill, and fills the stomachs I cook for.
In simple terms, soup is any combination of meat, poultry, vegetables, or fruits cooked in a liquid, typically water. The flavor of the ingredients is extracted into the water, making a broth. After the flavor is sufficiently extracted, the soup ingredients are either blended until smooth, for a pureed soup, or left chunky, so they fit easily on a soup spoon.
The critical step when making soup is the first one. If I learned anything from studying French cooking or from cooking Cajun meals, it's that the flavor of the dish begins with the way the recipe is started. In French cuisine, carrots, onions, and celery are sweated together; this trio of vegetables, called mirepoix, forms the foundation of most French recipes. Cajun cooks begin with the “holy trinity” of green peppers, onions, and celery to form the flavor base for gumbo, jambalaya, and étouffee. Although I don't have three favorite vegetables that I always use, whenever I make a batch of soup, I begin by building a bold flavor foundation with onions, other vegetables, herbs, spices, and sometimes salt and pepper. Skimping on this step decreases the dish's flavor.
Serve soups with a green salad, crusty bread, and slices of cheese for a Sunday night supper. Bread recipes that pair beautifully with any of the following soups include Herbed Beer Batter Bread (page 240), Cast-Iron Skillet Soda Bread (page 79), Silver Dollar Corncakes (page 295), and Buttermilk Cornbread (page 293). Remember that cooking a large pot of soup requires only a little more time and energy than making a smaller batch. Sometimes I double or triple the recipe and freeze the extra for another meal.
MAKES 12 SERVINGS
The lentil is a cousin of the bean, and both are part of the legume family. From a cooking perspective, the prime benefit of lentils is they do not require soaking before cooking, and they cook relatively quickly. This recipe is adapted from an old favorite Jane Brody recipe.
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 large onion, chopped (about 2 cups)
4 carrots, peeled and grated
1½ teaspoons dried thyme
1 teaspoon dried oregano
One 28-ounce can diced tomatoes, with the juice
1 tablespoon tomato paste
8 cups reduced-sodium chicken or vegetable broth
4 cups water
2½ cups brown lentils (about 1 pound), rinsed and picked over
1 teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
¾ cup dry red wine (one suitable for drinking)
½ cup chopped fresh parsley
In a Dutch oven, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the onion, carrot, thyme, and oregano. Cook for about 10 minutes, until softened. Add the tomatoes (and their juice), tomato paste, broth, water, and lentils. Bring the soup to a boil, reduce the heat, cover the pot, and simmer for about 1 hour, or until the lentils are tender. Add the salt, pepper, wine, and parsley and simmer uncovered for 15 more minutes.
MAKES 8 SERVINGS
This is a cheesy but not overly thick soup, ripe with the flavor and hue of ale. The secret to adding cheese to potato soup is to first cook the potatoes, then add a cheese-infused sauce to the soup.
4 tablespoons (½ stick) butter, divided
1 large onion, chopped (about 2 cups)
2 ribs celery, chopped
4 pounds red- or yellow-skinned all-purpose potatoes, scrubbed
¾ cup (6 ounces) ale, such as Kentucky Ale
4 cups reduced-sodium chicken or vegetable broth
1 teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons unbleached all-purpose flour
2 cups milk
8 ounces (2 cups) grated white or yellow Cheddar
Fresh chopped parsley for garnish, optional
Crisp cooked bacon for garnish, optional
In a large soup pot or Dutch oven, melt 2 tablespoons butter over medium heat. Stir in onion and celery and cook over medium heat for about 5 minutes, until softened. Meanwhile, cut the potatoes into 1-inch chunks. When the onion and celery are softened, stir in the potatoes, ale, broth, salt, and pepper. Bring to a boil. Lower the heat, cover, and simmer for about 30 minutes, or until the potatoes are tender.
Meanwhile, in a saucepan, melt the remaining 2 tablespoons butter. Whisk in the flour until smooth. Stir in the milk and whisk until smooth and thickened. Turn off the heat and stir in the cheese until melted. When the potatoes are cooked, stir the cheese sauce into the soup, and keep it warm over a very low heat. Serve the soup hot, garnished with parsley and bacon if desired.
MAKES ABOUT 8 SERVINGS
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 medium onion, chopped (about 1 cup)
4 large carrots, peeled and chopped
2 ribs celery, chopped
1 pound red-skinned potatoes, cubed
1½ cups fresh, frozen, or canned white corn kernels
3 cups milk
3 cups reduced-sodium chicken broth
1 pound fresh skinless salmon, cut into chunks
1 tablespoon fresh chopped dill weed or 1 teaspoon dried
½ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
In a Dutch oven or soup pot, heat the oil over medium-high heat. Stir in the onion, carrots, and celery and allow to cook for about 10 minutes, or until softened. Stir in the potatoes and corn and cook while stirring for about 2 minutes. Stir in the milk and broth. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat, cover, and cook over medium-low heat for about 15 minutes, or until the potatoes are tender when pierced with a fork. Add the salmon and cook over medium-low heat for about 5 minutes, until the salmon is no longer translucent. Do not allow the soup to boil. Stir in the dill and season to taste with salt and pepper.
Before cooking dried beans, they first need to be soaked. There are two options for soaking: a quick soak or an overnight soak. To do either, first rinse and sort through the beans, discarding any shriveled ones and any pieces of rock or dirt. Place the beans in a large soup pot or Dutch oven. Cover with at least 2 inches of water. To soak overnight, cover the pot and let the beans stand in the water for at least 8 hours. To quick-soak, bring the beans to a rapid boil for 2 minutes. Turn off the heat, cover the pot, and allow the beans to stand for at least 1 hour. After either method, cook the beans as directed. Canned beans are convenient and make a good substitute for freshly cooked beans. One 15-ounce can of drained beans yields about 1½ cups cooked beans.
MAKES 10 SERVINGS
Kentuckians love beans, ham, and bourbon. This recipe, adapted from a recipe in the Lexington Herald Leader, offers a twist on an old favorite.
1 pound dried navy beans
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 large onion, chopped (about 2 cups)
¼ cup Kentucky bourbon
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 teaspoon dried rosemary
1 teaspoon dried thyme
2 ham hocks (about 1 pound)
8 cups water
Salt to taste
Freshly ground black pepper to taste
Rinse and sort through the beans, discarding any shriveled ones or pieces of debris. Place the beans in a large soup pan or Dutch oven, cover with water, and let stand overnight. Alternatively, for a quick soak, bring to a rapid boil for 2 minutes, cover, turn off the heat, and allow the beans to stand for at least 1 hour. Drain the beans and set them aside. Wipe the excess water out of the Dutch oven and heat the oil over medium heat. Add the onion and cook over medium-low heat for about 10 minutes, or until the onion is golden. Add the bourbon and stir, scraping any browned onion bits off the bottom of the pan. Stir in the garlic, rosemary, and thyme. Add the ham hocks, soaked beans, and water. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat to a simmer, cover, and cook over low heat until the beans and ham hocks are tender, about 2 hours. Remove the ham hocks and cool. Pull off the meat, chop it, and add it back to the beans. To thicken the broth, smash some of the beans up against the side of the pot with the back of a large spoon. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
MAKES 8 SERVINGS
Chock full of spices and vegetables, this soup is ideal for a Sunday evening meal. It was inspired by a favorite recipe in the classic Moosewood Cookbook.
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 medium onion, chopped (about 1 cup)
4 ribs celery, thinly sliced
2 large sweet potatoes, peeled and cut into small cubes (about 4 cups)
4 cloves garlic, minced
2 teaspoons sweet or smoked paprika
1 teaspoon turmeric
1 teaspoon dried oregano
½ teaspoon ground ginger
1 bay leaf
½ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
⅛ teaspoon cayenne pepper, optional
6 cups reduced-sodium chicken or vegetable broth
One 28-ounce can diced tomatoes, with the juice
1½ cups cooked, or one 15-ounce can, chickpeas, drained
In a Dutch oven, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the onion and celery and cook, stirring occasionally until softened, about 5 minutes. Stir in the sweet potato, garlic, paprika, turmeric, oregano, ginger, bay leaf, salt, pepper, and cayenne pepper. Stir and cook for about 1 minute to blend ingredients and soften the garlic. Stir in the broth, tomatoes, and chickpeas. Bring to a boil, reduce to a simmer, and cook, partially covered, for about 30 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
VARIATION: Sweet Potato Vegetable Soup with Kale
Increase the broth by 2 cups and add 2 cups chopped kale with the tomatoes and chickpeas.