These are the Italian gift to good eating. When traditionally made with seafood, they do not use butter. I have included in this chapter other butterless pasta, and risottos to create joy. For information on the rices traditionally used for risotto, see page 230.
While they are called first courses on Italian menus, I find that I tend to eat both pasta and risotto as main courses. Nevertheless, tradition must be honored, and they make wonderful introductions to a meal. Adjust portions accordingly.
Though many of the best wheat-free pastas are Italian (see page 39), many are made in other countries. Look for the noodles—not pastas—that are Asian and traditionally made from rice or mung beans (see page 215).
This is a variation on a Sicilian recipe. It is satisfying without being heavy.
4 cups gluten-free dried fusilli, penne, or ziti (about 8 ounces)
5 or 6 cloves garlic, smashed, peeled, and minced
One 2-ounce tin oil-packed anchovies, drained and chopped into ⅛-inch pieces, oil reserved
2 tablespoons capers, rinsed well
⅜ cup olive oil
Freshly ground black pepper
Bring 3 quarts water to a boil in a large saucepan. Add the pasta and cook until tender, 8 to 10 minutes. Drain the pasta. Return it to the pot and add the garlic, anchovies, anchovy oil, capers, and olive oil. Combine well. Season with pepper. Serve immediately.
SERVES 4 TO 6; MAKES ABOUT 6 CUPS
VARIATION
Anchovy Sauce
Increase the amount of olive oil to ¾ cup, chop the capers, and cook with the garlic, anchovies, and olive oil over low heat until the fish begins to dissolve. Serve as a sauce for mashed potatoes, steamed asparagus, or other green vegetables.
| Pasta | Amount | Cooking Time | Yield | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
|
Schär Penne |
1 cup |
9–10 minutes |
2 cups |
Looks just like regular pasta, tastes great |
|
Schär Fusilli |
1 cup |
9–10 minutes |
2 cups |
Looks just like regular pasta, tastes great |
|
De Boles Rice Penne |
1 cup |
7–8 minutes |
2 cups |
Beige, tastes okay |
|
De Boles Rice Spirals |
1 cup |
7–8 minutes |
2 cups |
Beige, tastes okay |
|
De Boles Rice Plus Golden Flax Spirals |
1 cup |
8–9 minutes |
2 cups |
Beige, tastes gross, does not hold shape well |
|
Ancient Harvest Quinoa Rotelle |
1 cup |
8–9 minutes |
2 cups |
Light brown, tastes okay |
|
Ancient Harvest Brown Rice Penne |
1 cup |
6 minutes |
2 cups |
Light brown, overcooks easily, tastes okay |
|
De Boles Corn Elbow Pasta |
1 cup |
6–7 minutes |
2 cups |
Bright yellow, tastes the best of all |
|
De Boles Multi Grain Penne |
1 cup |
Not recommended |
n.a. |
Beige, does not hold shape well |
|
De Boles Rice Plus Golden Flax Angel Hair |
2 ounces |
5 minutes |
1 cup |
Tan, tastes okay |
|
De Boles Rice Angel Hair |
2 ounces |
8–9 minutes |
1 cup |
Tan, tastes okay |
|
Ancient Harvest Quinoa Spaghetti |
2 ounces |
9–10 minutes |
1 cup |
Light brown, tastes okay |
|
Lundberg Organic Brown Rice Pasta |
2 ounces |
9–10 minutes |
1 cup |
Light brown, tastes okay |
|
De Boles Multi Grain Spaghetti |
2 ounces |
Not recommended |
n.a. |
Does not taste great, does not hold shape |
|
De Boles Corn Spaghetti |
2 ounces |
8 minutes |
1 cup |
Yellow, tastes great |
|
De Boles Rice Spaghetti |
2 ounces |
9 minutes |
1 cup |
Beige, tastes okay |
|
Schär Spaghetti |
2 ounces |
11–12 minutes |
1 cup |
Looks and tastes like regular pasta |
NOTES: All pasta was cooked in salted boiling water (¼ cup kosher salt added to 6 quarts water or, for a smaller amount, 2 tablespoons salt added to 3 quarts boiling water).
Schär pasta was the best in general, although the corn elbow macaroni from De Boles was the clear taste winner among all those tested. The De Boles multigrain (amaranth, rice, and quinoa) penne and spaghetti were not recommended as they didn’t hold their shape and became quite mushy. The thinner the pasta, the more sauce it required. One cup of ziti or fettuccine used only ¼ cup of sauce. One cup of linguine or macaroni used ⅜ cup of sauce, and 1 cup of spaghettini or capellini used ½ cup of sauce.
Gluten-free pastas tend to be stickier, so must be carefully added to boiling water and must be stirred.
After the pasta is cooked, make sure to rinse in cold water to shock the pasta to prevent overcooking and remove some of the excess starch so the noodles are more manageable and not as sticky.
This is an ample meal using that Asian classic, rice noodles. Everyone who has eaten it has enjoyed it.
1½ ounces dried shiitake mushrooms
4 cups chicken stock (any of the homemade stocks, pages 203–4, or sterile-pack)
1 whole skinless and boneless chicken breast (about 1 pound), cut in half
1 pound green beans, tipped and tailed (about 2 cups)
¼ cup shelled green peas (about ¼ pound in the pod)
3 tablespoons toasted sesame oil
2 bunches scallions, trimmed, white part only cut across into ¼-inch pieces (about ¾ cup)
2 bok choy (¾ pound each), trimmed, cut in half between the green and white parts, and then sliced separately into thin strips (keep firmer white pieces and leafy green parts separate)
2 teaspoons peeled grated ginger
½ cup gluten-free soy sauce, or more to taste
½ bunch cilantro, stemmed (about ¼ cup)
¼ teaspoon Thai chili paste
1 pound rice noodles, cooked (see page 230)
2 tablespoons rice vinegar
Put the mushrooms in a bowl, add 2 cups of the chicken stock, and let sit for 30 minutes. Once the mushrooms have rehydrated, drain them, reserving the liquid. Discard the stems and cut into ¼-inch-thick strips—there should be about 1 cup. Set aside.
Pour the remaining 2 cups chicken stock into a 4-quart saucepan and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Reduce the heat to simmer and poach the chicken for 8 to 10 minutes, depending on the thickness of the meat, until cooked through. Remove the chicken to a plate, allow to cool, and cut across into ¼-inch-thick strips. Blanch the green beans in the boiling stock for 8 minutes or until easily pierced with the tip of a sharp knife. Remove the beans and rinse in cold running water. Drain. Set aside. Add the peas to the boiling stock and cook for 3 to 4 minutes. Remove the peas and rinse in cold running water. Drain. Set aside the peas. Reserve 2 cups of the chicken stock.
Heat the sesame oil in a wok over high heat until it begins to bubble. Pour in the scallions and sauté for 1 minute. Add the whites of the bok choy, cook for 1 minute, then add the leafy greens of the bok choy and the ginger and cook for another minute. Stir in the green beans, chicken, and the reserved mushroom strips and sauté for 1 minute. Pour in the soy sauce, reserved shiitake liquid, cilantro, and peas and cook for 1 minute. Finally, add the chili paste and reserved chicken stock. Drop in the noodles, toss, and combine well. Add the rice vinegar. Taste for seasoning and add more soy sauce if desired.
SERVES 6 TO 8 AS A FIRST COURSE, 4 TO 6 AS A MAIN COURSE
I didn’t realize until recently when I found them in farmers’ markets that hen-of-the-woods mushrooms could be cultivated. (I have picked them in the woods.) It should have been evident as the Japanese have been growing maitake (same mushroom, Latin Grifola frondosa) on sawdust logs for generations. I expect that now that they have begun showing up on restaurant menus they will become readily available.
I have cooked them before, usually sautéing, but they sometimes get stringy, so I decided to try steaming. It worked perfectly. Don’t put more water in the steamer as the mushrooms will add liquid. The steaming liquid adds an elegant flavor to the sauce.
3 whole hen-of-the-woods mushrooms, trimmed
1 bunch scallions, trimmed and cut across into ¼-inch pieces
4 stalks celery, peeled and cut across into ¼-inch pieces
6 pounds small mussels, cleaned and beards removed
1 pound rice noodles, cooked (see page 230)
Place the mushrooms in a steamer with 3 cups water (if the mushrooms are too big, cut them in half through the stem end, they will be cut up anyhow). Cover and steam over high heat for 10 minutes. Move the mushrooms to a plate.
Pour off the cooking liquid into a large pot. Add the scallions and celery. Bring to a boil, add the mussels, and cover. Cook the mussels just until they begin to open, about 10 minutes. Meanwhile, cut the mushrooms into florets. Transfer the mussels to a large bowl. Toss the mushrooms and rice noodles in the pan with some of the cooking liquid. Place in a separate bowl. Serve alongside the mussels, and put a bowl for the mussel shells on the table.
SERVES 6 TO 8 AS A FIRST COURSE, 4 AS A MAIN COURSE
RISI BISI
This is a classic Venetian springtime dish. It is related to risotto but soupier. I have added a few extra greens for flavor and health. Use enough broth so that the rice is still soupy when served. If cooked in advance, add more hot broth just before serving in soup bowls.
½ pound scallions, half the green parts discarded, cut into 2-inch pieces
2 cups packed spinach leaves
2 tablespoons packed parsley leaves
1 cup arborio rice
¼ cup olive oil
4 to 5 cups chicken stock (any of the homemade stocks, pages 203–4, or sterile-pack)
1 pound peas in pods, shelled, or about 1½ cups frozen, thawed
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
In a food processor, finely chop, but do not purée, the scallions, spinach, and parsley.
In a large pan, sauté the rice in the olive oil over high heat for 2 minutes. Reduce the heat to medium. Add the chicken stock bit by bit, stirring in more as it is absorbed. While still adding the stock, cook for 15 minutes. Stir in the peas and the scallion, spinach, and parsley mixture. Continue to cook, adding the stock little by little, until the peas are tender but the rice is still soupy. Add extra stock as needed to keep soupy. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
MAKES 5 TO 6 CUPS; SERVES 4 AS A FIRST COURSE, 2 OR 3 AS A MAIN COURSE
Actually this goes beyond vegetarian to vegan. I made it for a dinner party with two vegan friends. I used the Vegetable Broth, but commercial is adequate, and the Garlic Broth is excellent if everybody likes garlic—not sharp, but mild from long cooking. This risotto can be stopped about halfway through and then finished. It is ideal in spring, when vegetables are young and tender. I used king oyster mushrooms as they don’t get mushy with the longish cooking. Ordinary white mushrooms can be substituted, but they should not be added until the peas are.
I had the idea for the slivered almonds (out of a can) when I was looking for something to add texture and even nutrition.
½ cup olive oil
2 cups arborio rice
⅔ pound yellow onions, cut into ¼-inch dice (about 1½ cups)
¼ pound king oyster mushrooms (see Note) or white mushrooms, trimmed and cut into ¼-inch dice (about 1½ cups)
2 cups white wine
1¼ pounds slim zucchini, trimmed and thinly sliced across (about 4 cups)
6 cups Vegetable Broth (page 206), Garlic Broth (page 207), or sterile-pack stock
4 cups shelled peas (about 3 pounds in the pod)
1 pound asparagus, hard ends of stems snapped off, peeled, tips (about ¾ cup) reserved, stems cut into ¼-inch lengths (about 1 cup)
½ cup coarsely chopped dill fronds
2 tablespoons kosher salt, or to taste
Freshly ground black pepper
1 cup slivered almonds
Heat the oil in a 14-inch skillet, braising pan, or large wok over medium heat until shimmering but not smoking. Stir in the rice and cook until opaque or even slightly tan, about 3 minutes. Add the onions and oyster mushrooms, if using (do not add white mushrooms at this time). Cook until the onions are translucent. Stir in a cup of the wine and cook until absorbed. Stir in the zucchini and 2 cups of the stock. Cook until the stock is absorbed. At this point the recipe can wait.
Add 3 cups of the remaining stock and bring to a boil. Stir and turn until the zucchini begins to look glossy. Stir in the peas and the last cup of stock. Add the asparagus stems, the remaining cup of wine, and, if using, the white mushrooms. Cook until the liquid is almost absorbed. Stir in the asparagus tips and dill. Add salt and pepper to taste. Stir in half of the almonds.
Serve topped—the whole or by the portion—with the remaining almonds.
SERVES 8 TO 10 AS A FIRST COURSE
NOTE
King Oyster Mushrooms
King oyster mushrooms (Pleurotus eryngii) are long and solid with a small concave cap. They slice neatly and are good for broiling and grilling. They are increasingly available on the Internet and in good stores.
The Mushroom Base that’s the foundation of this recipe combines white mushrooms with lobster mushrooms (Pleurotus) and dried porcini (Boletus). Other flavor-packed mushrooms such as chanterelles, shiitakes, or hen-of-the-woods can be substituted—use what is fresh and available. If there are vegetarians in the guest mix, substitute vegetable broth.
½ cup olive oil
2 cups arborio rice
1 cup white wine
1 cup chicken stock (any of the homemade stocks, pages 203–4, or sterile-pack)
1 recipe Mushroom Base (page 208)
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
Heat the olive oil in a large pan—I like to use a wok. Add the rice and cook over high heat, stirring, until the rice turns opaque. Pour in the wine and chicken stock. Cook, stirring constantly, until no visible liquid remains. Reduce the heat and add the mushroom base. Continue to cook, stirring frequently, until the rice is done. Add salt and pepper to taste—the amount will depend on the saltiness of the stock.
SERVES 12 OR MORE AS A FIRST COURSE (BUT IT IS RICH), 6 TO 8 AS A MAIN COURSE
Millet is one of our oldest and smallest grains. While this risotto can be made with rice following the steps on page 42, it has the advantages of offering better nutrition and being reheatable. It also tastes good but is not as creamy as a rice risotto.
3 tablespoons olive oil
1½ ounces (⅓ cup) finely chopped white onion
¼ cup millet
2½ cups Extra-Rich Chicken Stock (page 204) or Fake Chicken Stock (page 204)
2 ounces (about ½ cup) zucchini in ¼-inch dice
2 cloves garlic, smashed, peeled, and finely chopped
¾ cup loosely packed basil leaves, chopped (about 3 tablespoons)
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
Heat the oil in a 9-inch saucepan over medium-high heat until it shimmers. Add the onion and cook for a minute, or until translucent. Add the millet and 1¾ cups of the chicken stock. Bring to a boil; reduce the heat to medium and cook for 15 minutes. Add the zucchini, garlic, and ½ cup of the remaining stock. Bring to a boil and simmer for about 15 minutes or until the liquid is absorbed. Cooking can be stopped at this point. To complete and serve, add the basil, salt and pepper to taste, and the remaining stock. Bring back to a boil and cook until the stock is absorbed.
MAKES 3 CUPS TO SERVE 4 GENEROUSLY