For the gluten forbidden, wheat is the great problem. Most of us can probably abandon breakfast oatmeal and even oatmeal cookies without bursting into tears. To not eat barley will be a relief to many. The absence of wheat is a problem.
Do not “abandon hope all ye who enter here”; there is a wide variety of other starches—not just the potato—that can make the pain more bearable. While I almost always eschew the ersatz in the form of gluey bread and other soggy baked goods, I have found pastas that are more than tolerable (see page 39). They are not the rice ones unless we include Asian rice noodles, which are good particularly with seafood and in cold dishes. Beyond the pastas, a whole range of grains, seeds, and the flours made from them awaits the adventurous, and this chapter provides basic information on these seeds and grains. It also describes them, their assets and detriments, the basic ways of preparing them, and the best ways of serving them. The book’s index leads to recipes using these ingredients.
America has contributed a large share of these goods. It was a continent without wheat until the arrival of the Spaniards. Besides potatoes, I have always loved polenta (cornmeal) and grits. Beans have been a major gift. I have newly fallen in love with the Peruvian quinoa. Wild rice has its place but should not be confused with rice, which is wonderful, as is buckwheat (kasha), which we can eat but should not be confused with the wheat we cannot. Then there are grains even less known to most of us; but I hope that this book will widen our horizons.
Sweet almonds are the edible ones. Bitter almonds can be toxic. Sweet almonds can be used raw or roasted and are a crunchy addition to curries, stews, and salads. Blanched almonds are white, having been put in hot water and skinned.
Like most nuts, almonds can be finely ground to make a flour. It is used in baking, in addition to being a thickener.
This is part of a large family. Both leaves and seeds of some species are eaten. The small beadlike brown grain with a nutty flavor is a good source of protein and certain amino acids. It needs to be cooked before eating and can be boiled, popped, toasted, or milled. Amaranth comes from an Aztec word meaning “not withering” or “immortal.” Expect to see more of it in the future, particularly ground as an enrichment to foods. It is easy to grow and will show up in underdeveloped nations.
An edible starch, arrowroot powder is made from the rhizomes of a plant native to the West Indies. In the past, it was used a great deal, but it has been found very low in nutritional value. Its primary use is as a thickener for soups, stews, and sauces because it thickens quickly and does not cloud the food. Conversely, once it has been added to hot food as a slurry (see page 12), it can cook only for a very short time. It has one other culinary advantage that I have never tried: it prevents ice crystals from forming in frozen desserts.
When I was in high school, I hated Latin and my Latin teacher. Nevertheless, these days I long for the clarity of Latin nomenclature for vegetables and their categories. English is more difficult because sometimes the names given to different groups of vegetables, such as beans and their relatives, are confusing. For instance, both beans and lima beans are pulses, but lima beans are not beans (despite the name). This entry covers vegetables that are true beans; other pulses and legumes are covered elsewhere in this chapter.
The number of varieties of beans available continues to grow with the popularity of heirloom varieties and curious farmers. This section is intended only as an overview of the majority of beans available in most markets today. These nutrient-rich, high-carbohydrate vegetables have always been a staple for vegetarians and vegans alike but are especially beneficial to Intolerant Gourmets, where they substitute for forbidden starches.
BEAN VARIETIES
Beans come fresh, whole or shelled; dried, shelled; and canned. The beans that can be eaten whole are all some variant of regular green beans—haricots verts, wax beans, and romano beans. Other beans are eaten shelled and sold dried, fresh, or canned. Familiar examples include black beans and kidney beans, although, as the following alphabetical list of common beans demonstrates, shelled beans are hardly limited to these two.
ADZUKI/RED BEANS: The small red adzuki beans can be eaten young in the pod but are most often shelled and dried. They are used in everything from desserts and baked goods to facial scrubs in Japan.
BLACK BEANS: Sometimes called turtle beans and most common dried, these shelled beans pair well with pork and spicy flavors. Chinese fermented black beans are quite salty as they are not meant to be eaten on their own. When used as a proper seasoning they add a richness of flavor not found in plain salt. Companies have started making gluten-free black bean pastas, but they are not very tasty or appealing to look at.
CANNELLINI BEANS: Commonly sold dried and especially good when cooked from this form or from fresh, although canned can be used if drained and well rinsed. These creamy white shelled beans, somewhat larger than most others, are preferred in Italy, found along with tuna in salads and as part of antipasti and in soup. Be aware that the skins of these beans tend to come loose as they cook and drift around the top of the water; just skim them off.
CHICKPEAS: See Garbanzo Beans, page 221.
CORONA BEANS: See under Lima Beans, page 225.
CRANBERRY BEANS: These are the most widely available of beans to shell that are sold fresh. Sadly, the beautiful dappled color disappears and they turn a dull lavender/purply beige when cooked.
FAVA BEANS: Favas, the only true bean of the Old World and for millennia the only type in Europe, remain a staple there and in Central America in their dried form. They used to come in their skins, but these days peeled dried favas are widely available. Mexican favas are the most common type of peeled and dried favas available today. They come both whole, with two lobes, or split, with the lobes separated. The latter cook more quickly and are good for soup, but whole beans can be used for everything else.
Fresh favas are spring vegetables in the shell. They need to be shelled and have the actual skin removed (a painstaking and time-consuming job usually reserved in restaurant kitchens for green, inexperienced cooks with limited culinary skills). When buying fresh beans, rely on your hands and eyes to pick out the best. Feel the beans to make sure they are not dried out. The shells should be plump and firm. They should also feel smooth without any soft spots. Look to see whether the seeds (inside) are bulging out, which indicates they are overripe. Look for any kind of discoloration. Try to pick beans of similar size for even cooking times.
Broad beans are small favas in their yellow shells and eaten whole. They are popular in England despite the fibrous and flabby texture when cooked.
FLAGEOLETS: These are the seeds of adult haricots verts (green beans). These pale beans are available shelled, both fresh and dried. Delicate in taste, they are generally served in France with roasted lamb and do well with the juices of meat. There are also white flageolets, more like a small navy bean and usually dried.
GARBANZO BEANS: See page 221.
GREEN BEANS: Eaten whole and available fresh. These grow fairly large on vines or bushes. French green beans, haricots verts, are thinner and rounder than regular green beans. Wax beans are yellow and slightly flatter than green beans. Their vibrant color makes up for their lack of flavor. Romano beans are also known as Italian green beans. They are flatter and wider than green beans. They can be used interchangeably with green beans in recipes using a slightly longer cooking time.
GREEN RICE BEANS: A hybrid between flageolets and white rice beans that is similar in flavor and texture to flageolets but much lighter in color. The two varieties can be used interchangeably.
KIDNEY BEANS: The common dark red shelled dried beans used in chili and to make refried beans.
MUNG BEANS: These small beans, commonly used in East and South Asian cuisines, are also known as green beans because of their green color and oval shape. They are generally eaten whole in sweet or savory preparations, as bean sprouts, or turned into a sweet paste for desserts. The starch of mung beans is used to make jellies and clear cellophane noodles. Make a note that Vietnamese spring roll wrappers are not made from mung bean starch but from rice flour, tapioca starch, water, and salt.
LIMA BEANS: See page 225.
NAVY AND OTHER SMALL WHITE BEANS: Commonly sold shelled and dried, these make wonderful soup. In southwestern France they are used for cassoulet. The most common in North America are great Northern.
PINTO BEANS: Pink to light red, lighter than kidney beans, these are best grown at a high altitude and eaten fresh but are also available canned and dried.
SOYBEANS: The jack of all trades of the bean world—there is almost nothing it can’t do—the soybean is never consumed shell and all. On their own and fresh, soybeans are boiled in salted water for a snack or starter. These edamame can be bought precooked, although they are not as good as when you cook them yourself. Soybeans are cooked and eaten or turned into a variety of products, such as flour, tofu, oil, milk, and paste. Soybeans are also sold freeze-dried, and these make a good crunch with drinks.
Though soybeans are cooked, dried, and then turned into flour, it has a strong raw bean flavor and cannot be used alone. This flour absorbs much more water than other flours, is yellow in color, and tastes chalky.
Tofu, the custardlike blocks of soybean curd stored in water, can be transformed into dozens of forms. There is regular tofu and a creamier, more fragile kind called silk tofu. There is tofu ice cream, pressed tofu in brown sheets (used as a meat substitute for vegetarians), and even soft silky tofu curds used in soups and stews in Asian dishes. The uses are limitless.
Soy sauce, like wine, is available in all different varieties and vintages. Each country that produces soy sauce makes it just a little differently from others. Chinese black soy, for example, is more viscous and often sweet compared to Japanese soy. There are cheap, mass-produced varieties of soy sauce and carefully fabricated, aged-for-decades types of soy sauce. While all good-quality soy sauces are made from fermented soybeans, most today have wheat added to them. This cost-cutting ingredient is unfortunate for us Intolerants, but the good news is that wheat-free soy sauce is more widely available.
Soy milk is often used as a substitute for animal milk for those unable to digest it. This dairy-free beverage has a dairy-like creaminess but can often taste chalky. However, let the buyer beware that soybeans must usually be heavily chemically manipulated to produce soy milk, and that is why I do not drink it or use it when cooking.
Miso is the soluble fermented soybean paste that comes in several colors: white, yellow, red, and brown—the most common. The darker the color, the deeper the flavor. It is used to make soups, sauces, and, at trendier restaurants, caramel and other sweet preparations.
| Beans | Amount | Cooking time | Yield | Color | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
|
Cannellini |
1 cup |
1 hour |
2½ cups |
Creamy white |
Tasty, great texture |
|
Corona |
1 cup |
3 hours |
2½ cups |
Off white |
Large and starchy, long cooking time |
|
Flageolets |
1 cup |
30 minutes to 1 hour |
Scant 3 cups |
Light green |
Tender with great texture |
|
Green rice (hybrid of white rice beans and flageolets) |
1 cup |
30 minutes to 1 hour |
Scant 3 cups |
Light green |
Tender with great texture, very similar to flageolet |
NOTES: Two soaking methods were used. For the cold soak method, beans were placed in a pot, covered by at least 2 inches of water, and refrigerated overnight; to cook, beans were drained, then covered with fresh water. For the quick soak method, beans were placed in a pot, covered with water, and brought to a boil for 15 minutes; beans were then removed from heat, allowed to sit for 1 hour, and cooked. In both cases, beans were brought up to a boil over high heat, then heat was reduced to a simmer until beans were cooked. Some beans seemed to take less time to cook using the quick soak method, possibly because the beans begin to cook while sitting for 1 hour as opposed to those coming out of the refrigerator cold.
Fresh beans should be kept tightly wrapped and refrigerated, and used as soon as possible after buying or picking. They will become starchier and less sweet with time. Light will change their color. If longer storage is needed, they should be boiled briefly in heavily salted water, refreshed under cold water, and then frozen in amounts that are likely to be used at any one time.
Keep dried beans in a cool, dark, dry place in tightly sealed containers, preferably opaque. While it may seem they last forever, it is best to use dried beans as soon as possible after buying them. Older beans take longer to cook.
To prepare for cooking, wash fresh whole beans in cold running water before snapping the ends. Trim the beans by snapping off both ends (commonly referred to as “tipped and tailed”).
To shorten the cooking time for dried beans, rinse them under cold running water and then soak.
Once all the prep work has been done, fresh beans may be boiled, steamed, microwaved, or sautéed. Dried beans can be soaked, baked, cooked on the stovetop, in a slow cooker, or in the microwave. Basic cooking techniques follow.
BASICS
BOILING: Always use water (without salt) that is at a full boil and do not cover the pot, or the beans will lose their vibrant color. Start the timer when the water returns to a boil after the beans have been added. Make sure to use a large enough pot with plenty of water so that the water returns to a boil relatively quickly. Typically, boil 2 quarts of water for every ½ pound of beans.
Whole green and wax beans, tipped and tailed—cook for 6 to 8 minutes.
Haricots verts, tipped and tailed—cook for 4 to 5 minutes.
Romanos, tipped and tailed—cook for 7 to 8 minutes.
STEAMING: Bring water to a boil. Place the trimmed beans in a single layer in a steamer basket/insert and place in the pot. Cover and cook.
Green, wax, and Romano beans—steam for 7 to 9 minutes.
Haricots verts—steam for 8 to 10 minutes.
BOILING: Always use water (without salt) that is at a full boil and do not cover the pot, or the beans will lose their vibrant color. Start the timer when the water returns to a boil after the beans have been added. Make sure to use a large enough pot with plenty of water so that the water returns to a boil relatively quickly. Typically, boil 2 quarts of water for every ½ pound of beans.
Cranberry beans—cook shelled beans for 20 minutes.
Favas—shelled favas take a few steps:
1. Drop beans into boiling water for 1 minute.
2. Drain and rinse under cold water.
3. Peel off the outer skin.
4. Simmer peeled beans for 5 minutes.
Soybeans—boil in the shell in salted water for 3 to 4 minutes or boil shelled for 2 to 3 minutes.
MICROWAVING: Fresh beans cook quickly in the microwave and retain their bright colors. Place trimmed beans in an even layer in a microwave-safe bowl and sprinkle them with water. Cover tightly with plastic wrap.
Green and wax beans—cook ¼ pound for 2½ minutes; cook ½ pound for 3 minutes.
Haricots verts—cook in water; ¼ pound beans in 1 cup water for 4 minutes; 1 pound beans in 3 cups water for 10 minutes.
GREEN BEANS AND WAX BEANS
¼ pound beans, tipped and tailed = 1¼ cups raw = 1 cup cooked
1 pound beans, tipped and tailed and cut into 1½-inch lengths = 3½ cups
3 pounds beans, tipped and tailed = 14 cups raw
HARICOTS VERTS
¼ pound beans, tipped and tailed = 1 cup raw = ¾ cup cooked
ROMANO BEANS
¾ pound beans, tipped, tailed, and cut into 2-inch lengths = 4 cups
CRANBERRY BEANS
¾ pound beans in the shell = 1 cup shelled = 1¼ cups cooked
2½ pounds beans in the shell = 1¼ pounds shelled = 4 cups raw = 5 cups cooked
FAVAS
2¾ pounds in the shell = 1 pound shelled = 3 cups raw = 9 ounces, or 1½ cups, blanched and peeled
SOYBEANS
1 pound fresh, in the pod = 4½ cups = 1 cup shelled raw = ⅔ cup cooked
SOAKING
Cold Soak Method: Place the beans in a pot, add water to cover by 2 inches, and refrigerate overnight (refrigeration keeps them from fermenting). When ready to cook, drain the beans and cover with fresh water.
Hot Soak Method: Place the beans in a pot, add water to cover by 2 inches, and bring to a boil. Remove from the heat and let sit for 1 hour. When ready to cook, drain and cover with fresh water. Or boil for 15 minutes, drain, and cook.
Microwave Method: For 2 cups dried beans: Place in a 5-quart casserole with a tightly fitting lid. Add 2 cups water, cover, and cook for 10 minutes. Remove and let stand, covered, for 5 minutes. Uncover and add 2 cups very hot tap water. Re-cover and let stand for 1 hour. Drain. Cover with water to cook.
BOILING
Stovetop: Cover soaked and drained beans with 2 inches of water or stock. Season the liquid with herbs if desired and onions or garlic if desired. Do not add salt. Bring to a boil, reduce to a simmer, and cook until the beans are tender, 1 to 3 hours, depending on the type and age of bean. Add liquid as necessary to keep the beans covered while they cook. When the beans are tender, season with salt. Remove from the heat and let stand for 10 to 15 minutes.
Slow-cooker: Drain the soaked beans before cooking. Cover by 1 inch with cooking liquid and cook at the low heat setting for 5 to 10 hours, depending on the bean.
Microwave: Small dried beans (e.g., flageolets, white, green rice)—place 1 to 2 cups presoaked beans in 4 cups warm water in a 2-quart soufflé dish covered tightly with microwave-safe plastic wrap. Cook for 27 minutes. Remove from the oven and let rest for 30 minutes.
Large dried beans (e.g., cannellini kidney, pinto, soybeans)—place 1 cup presoaked beans in 4 cups warm water in a 2-quart soufflé dish covered tightly with microwave-safe plastic wrap. Cook for 23 minutes. Remove from the oven and let rest for 30 minutes. Cook 2 cups presoaked beans in 6 cups warm water for 30 minutes. Let rest for 30 minutes.
YIELDS
SMALL DRIED BEANS (E.G., FLAGEOLETS, WHITE, GREEN RICE)
1 cup dried = 7 ounces = 2½ cups soaked = 3 cups cooked
LARGE DRIED BEANS (E.G., CANNELLINI, CORONA, KIDNEY, PINTO, SOYBEANS)
1 cup dried = 6 to 6½ ounces = 2 cups soaked = 2½ cups cooked
The name “buckwheat” is misleading for many reasons. First, there is absolutely no wheat in buckwheat. Second, this distant cousin of rhubarb is not even a cereal grain but a cocoa-brown fruit. Buckwheat is nutrient-rich, containing a high proportion of all eight essential amino acids and many B vitamins. It has been used in the Middle East for millennia and is called “kasha,” also the name of a dish among many Jews (see page 224). I have used it as a substitute for cracked wheat in tabbouleh (see page 28).
Cooked chestnuts when glazed or coated in chocolate are a traditional treat at Christmas, but their chief season is really late fall. Chestnut flour is made by grinding dried chestnuts, and it is very popular in Italy and Austria. It is light brown, sweet, and slightly nutty in flavor, which lends itself nicely to baked goods and other sweet preparations. From a nutritional standpoint it is not a powerhouse, although it is extremely low in calories and fat compared to other nut flours. The trick to using chestnut flour when baking is to make sure there is a protein binder.
See Garbanzo Beans (page 221).
Corn, a grass whose seeds grow on cobs that are surrounded by thin fibers called “silk” and tightly furled leaves, is the most widely grown vegetable of the Americas. Besides the many culinary uses of fresh and dried corn, it is grown as cattle feed and for conversion into alcohol both to drink and for use as a fuel. Dent corn, the kind intended for these purposes, is 95 percent of the corn grown.
What we eat is sweet or squaw corn, whose niblets can be yellow, white, or a mixture of the two. There is also blue corn, which is soft and can be made into flour. Harder varieties are known as flint corn and usually used for meal. There are extremely decorative corns that come in blue, purple, and red and generally show up at Thanksgiving in decorations. There are also special kinds of corn for popping. My favorite is bear claw.
Sadly, for the home-grower—like me—corn is like candy to raccoons, which seem to know just when it will be picked the next day. They strip the leaves off, eat the seeds (kernels, niblets), and neatly pile up the shucked cobs. I have given up growing it. The raccoons always win.
Corn is sweetest when just picked and becomes starchier with time. Corn can be cooked in many ways—boiled, steamed, roasted, or grilled with or without seasoning under the leaves, microwaved, or as niblets removed from the cob. Corn kernels also show up canned and frozen, which need only brief heating.
Processed corn, used to make hominy and flours, is made from dried kernels that are soaked in water mixed with lye and then thoroughly washed to remove any trace of lye. At this point they can be cooked and are often canned, or they are dried for further processing, usually into flour. The first grinding is known as “grits,” the best of which is stone-ground speckled heart (bits of black or dark brown) that retains the germ.
In order of fineness of grind, starting with coarsest, are polenta (yellow or white)—avoid precooked and instant—cornmeal, corn flour, and cornstarch, generally used for thickening. The most prevalent use is probably in corn flakes.
Then there is masa harina, used in Mexico for cooking and for making tortillas and other treats. There is also a precooked variety called “masarepa,” meant to be used to make Arepas (page 17). I found it less than satisfactory.
BASICS
The information that follows is for cooking sweet corn.
WASHING/CUTTING: The husks and silk protect the corn from dirt and damage. Unless roasting, microwaving, or grilling it on the cob, prepare the corn by removing the husks. Pull off the silk. Snap off any protruding stalk. If roasting or grilling whole, the husk can be used as insulation. Pull the husks back but not off and remove the silk. If desired, spread the ear with oil or seasoning. Re-cover the ear with the husks. If the grill fire is very hot, dampen the husks with water.
BOILING: Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Add the husked corn and cook for 2 to 3 minutes.
STEAMING: Place the husked corn in a covered steamer basket. Cook for 10 minutes.
MICROWAVING: Place in a single layer on a carousel or platter. Dampen the husks slightly. Cook uncovered.
1 ear |
2 minutes |
2 ears |
5 minutes |
4 ears |
9 minutes |
6 ears |
14 minutes |
GRILLING
Shucked Corn: Rub the ears lightly with vegetable oil. Grill the corn over moderately hot coals until well browned on all sides and blackened in spots, about 8 minutes.
Corn in the Husk: Soak whole ears in cold water to cover for 1 hour. Drain thoroughly and grill over moderately hot coals until the husks are blackened and the kernels are tender, about 30 minutes.
This refers to the corn kernels after they are removed from the cob. The best niblets are shoepeg, which are white and often used in Chinese cooking. Corn kernels are also the seeds for next year’s corn.
REMOVING FROM THE COB: Run a thin knife down all sides from tip to base with the knife blade against the cob. Be careful not to cut so deeply as to include part of the cob.
BOILING: Bring a pan of water to a boil. Add the kernels. Cook for 1½ to 2 minutes.
STEAMING: Place on a plate in a covered steamer basket. Cook for 4 to 5 minutes.
YIELDS
2 medium ears corn = 6 ounces kernels = 1 cup raw
1 large ear corn = 7 ounces kernels = 1¼ cups raw
This is the pulp from the ear of corn.
REMOVING FROM THE COB: Cut through the center of each kernel by running the knife down the center of each row, splitting the kernels in half. Turn the knife over and, using the blunt edge, scrape the corn innards into a bowl. Alternatively, grate the corn against the large-hole side of a box grater. This method results in a smoother consistency but slightly less volume.
YIELDS
1 medium ear corn = ¼ to ⅓ cup raw creamed corn
1 large ear corn = ⅔ cup raw creamed corn
Ears of baby corn are not true babies but a variety of miniature corn that matures at 2 to 3 inches in length and is entirely edible. They are light and sweet with a pleasing crunch. Most of us have not cooked fresh miniature corn; instead, we use what comes jarred. Canned baby corn has long been a staple of Chinese cooking. Fresh is increasingly available.
HOMINY: Processed dried corn kernels widely used in posole in the American Southwest.
COOKING GRITS: Bring 1 cup grits, 4 cups water, and 1 teaspoon kosher salt to a boil in a medium saucepan, then reduce to a simmer. Cover and cook, stirring once or twice, for 4 to 5 minutes for quick-cooking grits and 15 minutes for old-fashioned grits. Instant grits are not recommended.
YIELDS
3 tablespoons dry grits = ⅔ cup cooked
1 cup dry grits = 4 cups cooked
CORNSTARCH: 2 teaspoons cornstarch dissolved in 1½ tablespoons liquid will thicken 1 cup liquid.
POLENTA
Stovetop: For soft polenta, whisk 1 cup polenta softened in 1 cup cold water into 5 cups boiling water. Reduce the heat to simmer and cook for 30 minutes, stirring constantly. Serve immediately. For instant polenta, reduce the cooking time to 5 minutes. For firm polenta, repeat as above but whisk the polenta into 3 cups boiling water.
Microwave: For soft polenta, combine 4 cups water and ¾ cup polenta and cover tightly with plastic wrap. Cook for 12 minutes, stirring halfway through. Remove and let sit for 3 minutes. For firm polenta, combine 4 cups water and 1¼ cups polenta and cover tightly with plastic wrap. Cook for 11 minutes, stirring halfway through. Remove and let sit for 3 minutes.
Broil: Heat the broiler with a rack at the top of the oven. Slice firm polenta into the desired size pieces. Brush with olive oil and broil until crusty, about 2 minutes on each side.
YIELDS
1 cup dry polenta cooked in 5 to 6 cups water (microwave cooking requires less water) makes about 5½ cups cooked polenta
The seeds of the flax or linseed plant come in yellow or brown and contain large amounts of omega-3 fatty acids, fiber, and protein. Ground flax seed and water can be used as an egg substitute. Flax seed boiled in water creates a great binding agent for baking. See White Bread (page 17).
Also known as chickpeas—garbanzos are the preferred term in Central and South American cooking. These pulses are usually available dried or canned but recently have been showing up fresh at farmers’ markets across the country. They are extremely nutritious. Canned chickpeas are a decent substitute for those who do not have time to cook dried chickpeas (although microwaves now allow us to cook chickpeas in under 30 minutes). The plump round bean is starchy, cream colored, and delicious. Cooked chickpeas can be ground into hummus or thrown into a salad to add protein and texture. Garbanzo bean flour is dull yellow and tannish in color with great texture and high nutritional value. This flour dissolves in liquid, but because the strong bean flavor never disappears, it needs to be combined with other flours. When it is, it can be used effectively in savory and sweet preparations as a terrific binding agent.
To cook 1 cup dried chickpeas:
Stovetop: Rinse and drain the chickpeas. Add to a medium saucepan with 6 to 7 cups of water. Bring to a boil, reduce to a simmer, and cook for 1 to 1½ hours (older chickpeas take longer to cook). Drain.
Microwave: Rinse and drain the chickpeas. Add to a 2-quart soufflé dish with 4 cups water. Cover tightly with plastic wrap and microwave for 25 minutes. Remove from the oven and let sit for 5 minutes. Drain.
No-Heat Method: Soak overnight in 6 to 7 cups water. Cook briefly. Makes 2½ cups cooked chickpeas.
| Flour | Amount | Water | Cooking time | Yield | Color | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
|
Chestnut, Italian |
¼ cup |
1 cup |
2 minutes |
⅔ cup |
Cocoa |
Forms skin and cracks, puddinglike, sweet, moist, and loose |
|
Corn |
¼ cup |
1¼ cups |
3 minutes |
1 cup |
Yellow |
Forms skin, tasty—like corn, firm pudding texture, slightly grassy |
|
Corn masa, instant |
¼ cup |
1¼ cups |
2 to 3 minutes |
¾ cup |
Yellow |
Skin forms, firmest—almost solid, tastes like corn |
|
Flax seed |
¼ cup |
1 cup |
5 minutes |
1½ cups |
Seeds in clear slime |
Thick and viscous. Seeds don’t dissolve but definitely make mixture thicker and starchier |
|
Garbanzo |
¼ cup |
1 cup |
2 minutes |
¾ cup |
Yellow/tan |
Forms skin, tastes like garbanzo, firms up like very thick pudding |
|
Garbanzo/fava-bean |
¼ cup |
1 cup |
2 minutes |
¾ cup |
Yellow/tan |
Forms skin, tastes like raw favas, like very thick pudding |
|
Hazelnut meal |
¼ cup |
¼ cup |
4 minutes |
¼ cup |
Cocoa with dark spots |
Doesn’t thicken, no skin, very liquid, not soluble |
|
Potato |
¼ cup |
1¼ cups |
1 to 2 minutes |
¾ cup |
Off white |
Milky looking, lumpy, pasty, salty, tastes like potato |
|
Potato starch |
¼ cup |
1 cup |
Instant |
1 cup |
Clear |
Really firm, bounced back, thin skin forms, tastes like plastic |
|
Rice, organic brown |
¼ cup |
1 cup |
2 minutes |
¾ cup |
Off white |
Thick, forms skin, tastes like rice |
|
Rice, white |
¼ cup |
1 cup |
1 minute |
¾ cup |
Beige |
Forms skin, firm pudding texture, slightly sweet, bright white |
|
Rice bran |
¼ cup |
1 cup |
10 to 20 minutes |
½ cup |
Cloudy yellow |
Rice bran does not dissolve |
|
Sorghum, sweet white |
¼ cup |
1 cup |
2 minutes |
½ cup |
Beige |
Forms skin, firmer pudding texture, slightly sweet, funky aftertaste, grainy |
|
Soy |
¼ cup |
1 cup |
8 to 10 minutes |
½ cup |
Yellow |
Forms thick and darker skin, cracks on surface, chalky |
|
Tapioca |
¼ cup |
1 cup |
Instant |
¾ cup |
Clear |
Thick slime, extremely viscous, tastes like plastic (not recommended) |
|
Teff |
¼ cup |
1 cup |
2 minutes |
5/8 cup |
Cocoa |
Forms skin, firmest—almost solid, fairly nutty, slightly funky tasting |
NOTES: All findings were particularly heat- and volume-sensitive. Smaller amounts of flour and/or water were more likely to be affected by evaporation.
Cooking times were dramatically different for varying levels of heat as well.
For the above measurements, water was brought to a boil, flour was added, then heat was reduced to a simmer.
In testing involving flours, the first step was to whisk flour with cold water (subtracted from given amount), then the mixture was whisked into the boiling water.
Tapioca starch is a more ideal, neutral-tasting binding agent than rice flour, even if it tasted like plastic during testing.
Similar in texture and nutritional profile to garbanzo bean flour, but the strongest flavor here is that of raw fava beans. Must also be combined with other flours to neutralize the flavor. Great binding agent ideally used to make doughs. Also yellow in color.
Flour made from grinding hazelnuts. This meal is high in fiber, monounsaturated fats, protein, thiamine, and certain other B vitamins. The taste of hazelnut pairs well with chocolate, which makes hazelnut meal ideal for sweets and baking. It does not dissolve or thicken liquids, act as a binder, or have any other sticky characteristics. Should be used as a supplemental flour to add nutty flavor and a coarser texture.
When the buckwheat kernel is hulled, the remaining groat is known as “kasha” in the United States. In Slavic countries, “kasha” refers to any variety of porridges made from wheat, buckwheat, rice, or oats. Kasha has both great texture and a slightly nutty flavor, making it ideal for pairing with rich meats, dried fruit, and mushrooms.
A dry fruit commonly referred to as a pod. Legumes include alfalfa, clover, and peanuts. For examples of the starchy legumes known as pulses, see the entry on page 228.
Lentils are a type of lens-shaped pulse that are small in size but loaded with protein, iron, and other nutrients. They have been a staple for vegetarians for thousands of years. There are three main types of lentils: French/European, Egyptian/red, and yellow lentils. All varieties are dried as soon as they become ripe and are never available fresh.
The most commonly available are the brown European lentils, although the availability of the other types has improved in recent years with mail order and the legions of specialty e-commerce sites. Lentils are sold whole, split, skin on, or skin off, in a rainbow of colors including brown, green (assorted sizes), black, yellow (red inside), red, and gold.
Lentils should be stored in an airtight container for up to a year. They should be kept at room temperature until ready to cook. Lentils vary in size and composition, so cooking times will range from 10 to 50 minutes. Lentils will take longer to cook the longer they have been in storage. Do not add salt to the cooking liquid as this toughens the skins; season only once the lentils are fully cooked.
BASICS
BOILING: Bring 1 cup lentils and 3 cups water to a boil. Reduce to a simmer, cover, and cook until tender. Drain.
Brown lentils—cook for 35 to 40 minutes.
Red lentils—cook for 12 to 14 minutes.
MICROWAVE: Combine 1 cup lentils and 4 cups water in a 2½-quart soufflé dish. Cover tightly with plastic wrap. Microwave. Remove from the oven and let rest for 20 minutes. Remove the plastic wrap and drain.
Brown lentils—cook for 25 to 27 minutes.
Red lentils—cook for 7 minutes.
YIELDS
1 cup dry lentils = 2¼ cups cooked lentils
These are not beans at all but legumes. They are one of the few things that I often use frozen (better than canned). Look for Fordhooks, named after the farm at which they were developed. Larger specimens of this variety are called “gigantes” in Greece, “coronas” in Italy, and “giant” or “extra large limas” here in the United States. Coronas, also known as runner beans or sweet runner beans, are ideal for vegetarians since they’re hearty and flavorful.
BASICS
BOILING: Add shelled lima beans to boiling water. Simmer for 5 minutes, then taste; cooking times will vary with the size of the beans.
STEAMING: Place shelled beans in a covered steamer basket. Cook for 10 to 12 minutes.
YIELDS
One 10-ounce package frozen baby lima beans, defrosted = 1½ to 2 cups
Millet is not a true grain at all but rather a grass with small, round, yellow and cream-colored kernels. It is extremely high in iron: among the starches described in this chapter, only teff has higher levels. This grass contains magnesium, phosphorus, potassium, fiber, and protein. The kernels are a delicious alternative to couscous and can be used interchangeably with quinoa. See Summer Millet Risotto, page 43.
There are several varieties of peas, both fresh and dried. My favorites are the small to tiny peas just out of their pods in early spring. If I am lucky, I get a second crop in early fall. These green—English—peas can be climbers clinging to supports with corkscrew-like tendrils or more rarely in bushy clumps. The tendrils (shoots) can be tossed in toward the end of a stir-fry as can the small leaves.
Other peas that can be eaten fresh are sugar snaps, which are plump and eaten whole, and snow peas, which are very like sugar snaps but flat. The latter are commonly used in Asian cuisines, often cut into thin lengthwise strips. Both of these peas, which are eaten with their pods unless very young, often have strings around the outer edge that must be pulled off by breaking off one end and pulling the string slowly down both sides.
Since peas are at their best when young—they turn starchy quickly—many people prefer to use frozen peas. I have a perverse pleasure in canned tiny peas.
Most other varieties of peas are dried and then eaten only after cooking. These include black-eyed peas, a crucial ingredient of New Year’s festivities in the South and the Caribbean, which are actually a bean. Split peas of a variety of colors—such as green, brown, and yellow—are commonly made into soup; in India they are often cooked, puréed, spiced, and used as dhal, a side dish.
Since a childhood disaster with dried pea soup, which I thought I had learned to make in school, I have avoided dried peas.
Italian cornmeal. For more information, see page 219.
Potatoes can be divided into groups: floury (like baking), waxy (like new and fingerlings), and colored, such as blue, which can be starchy or firm. Floury, starchy potatoes are the best to use for mashing. Waxy and firm are best for boiling and steaming. All can be fried and roasted. Oddly, some, like the golden yellow Yukon Gold, are waxy and firm when young and small and floury when old and large.
Floury potato varieties include baking, Idaho, Irish, Maine, White, and large Yukon Gold. Waxy potato varieties include California, Creamer, fingerlings, Russian Banana, and small Yukon Gold.
Potato flour cooks fairly quickly with boiling water and becomes a milky, lumpy, extremely sticky and pasty mass. It is quite salty and tastes very much like potatoes. This is an ideal starch for savory preparations in gluten-free baking and cooking where a potato flavor is desired. Potato starch, which is finer in texture, is used dissolved first in water and then tempered with some of the hot liquid to thicken soups and stews.
BASICS
BOILING: Wash and peel 1 pound of potatoes; cut them into ½-inch dice (about 3 cups). Add 2 tablespoons kosher salt to 2 quarts water in a large saucepan over high heat. Bring to a boil and add the potatoes. Cook until the tip of a knife easily pierces the potato.
Floury potatoes—cook for 10 to 15 minutes.
Small waxy potatoes—cook for 15 to 20 minutes.
Large waxy potatoes—cook for 25 to 30 minutes.
BOILING IN MICROWAVE: Wash and peel 1 pound of potatoes; cut them into ½-inch dice (about 3 cups). Add the potatoes to 2 cups water in a 2-quart measure. Cover tightly with plastic wrap. Cook for 13 minutes.
BAKING: Use baking potatoes that are approximately 8 ounces. Bake in a 500°F oven for 45 minutes. This produces an old-fashioned baked potato with a really crisp outer skin and fluffy inside.
BAKING IN MICROWAVE
For 7- to 8-Ounce Baking Potatoes: Prick twice with a fork. Place 1 potato in the center, arrange other potatoes spoke fashion around it; do not cover.
1 potato Cook for 4 minutes
2 potatoes Cook for 7½ minutes
3 potatoes Cook for 10½ minutes
4 potatoes Cook for 14 minutes
For Small Waxy Potatoes: Cook 1 pound potatoes with 3 tablespoons oil for 7 to 9 minutes. Or cook 1 pound potatoes in a circle on a dinner plate with 1 tablespoon water for 7 minutes.
ROASTING: Potatoes may be peeled before roasting or washed and left unpeeled. They may be slicked with olive or other oil or cooked in the fat from the meat being cooked.
Floury Potatoes: Cut potatoes weighing about 10 ounces each into wedges about ½ inch thick or into ½-inch dice. Roast in a 500°F oven. Use a small roasting pan for 1 potato (2 cups if diced), a medium roasting pan for 2 potatoes (4 cups if diced), and a large roasting pan for 3 potatoes in ½-inch-thick wedges or 4 potatoes in ½-inch dice (8 cups if diced).
For ½-inch wedges, place the potatoes in the pan and slick them with 1 to 3 tablespoons fat. Roast for 15 minutes. Turn the potatoes with a spatula, scraping along the bottom of the pan to scoop up any wedges that stick. Roast for 10 minutes more. Transfer the wedges to a plate lined with paper towels.
For ½-inch dice, place the pieces in the pan and slick with 2 to 4 tablespoons fat. Roast for 10 minutes. Turn the potatoes with a spatula, scraping along the bottom of the pan to scoop up any that stick. Roast for 10 minutes more. Transfer to a paper-towel-lined plate.
Waxy Potatoes: Cut potatoes into halves, quarters, ¼-inch slices, or ¼-inch dice. Roast in a 500°F oven:
¾ to 1 pound potatoes, halved (3 cups), 1 pound quartered (2¾ cups), 10 ounces in ¼-inch slices (2 cups), or 10 ounces in ¼-inch dice (1½ cups) in a small roasting pan
1¾ pounds, halved (6 cups), 1¾ pounds quartered (5½ cups), 18 to 20 ounces in ¼-inch slices (4 cups), or 2 pounds in ¼-inch dice (5 cups) in a medium roasting pan
2½ pounds potatoes halved (10 cups), 2¼ pounds quartered (9 cups), or 1¾ to 2 pounds in ¼-inch slices (7 cups) in a large roasting pan.
Roasting Whole Potatoes: Potatoes that are about 2½ ounces can be left whole and roasted in the smallest pan that holds them comfortably in a single layer. Slick the potatoes and the pan with 2 tablespoons fat. Roast for 15 minutes. Turn the potatoes with a metal spatula, scraping along the bottom of the pan to scoop up any that stick. Roast for another 15 minutes. Turn. Roast for 10 to 20 minutes more.
Roasting Halves: Slick the potatoes and the pan with 2 tablespoons fat and roast, cut side down, for 15 minutes. Turn the potatoes with a spatula, scraping along the bottom of the pan to scoop up any that stick. Roast for 15 minutes more. Transfer the halves to a paper-towel-lined plate.
Roasting Quarters: Slick the potatoes and the pan with 2 tablespoons fat. Roast, cut side down, for 15 minutes. Turn the potatoes with a spatula, scraping along the bottom of the pan to scoop up any that stick. Roast for 5 to 10 minutes more. Transfer the pieces to a paper-towel-lined plate. Roasting Slices: Slick the potatoes and the pan with 2 tablespoons fat. Roast for 15 minutes. Turn the potatoes with a spatula, scraping along the bottom of the pan to scoop up any that stick. Roast for 5 minutes more. Transfer the pieces to a paper-towel-lined plate.
Roasting Potato Dice: Slick the potatoes and the pan with 2 tablespoons fat. Roast for 10 minutes. Turn the potatoes with a spatula, scraping along the bottom of the pan to scoop up any that stick. Roast for 10 minutes more. Transfer the pieces to a paper-towel-lined plate.
YIELDS
FLOURY POTATOES
1 small potato = 4 to 6 ounces
1 medium potato = 8 ounces
1 medium potato, cut into ½-inch cubes = 1½ cups raw = 1 cup cooked
1 medium potato = 1½ cups purée
1 large potato = 9 to 10 ounces
1 large potato, roasted = 2 to 3 servings
WAXY POTATOES
1 small potato = 3 to 4 ounces
1 medium potato = 7 to 8 ounces
1 large potato = more than 8 ounces
3 whole or halved small potatoes, roasted = 1 serving
8 to 10 quarters, roasted = 1 serving
8 slices, roasted = 1 serving
½ cup, roasted = 1 serving
The family of legumes that includes garbanzo beans (see page 221), peas (see page 225), beans (see page 213), lima beans (see page 225), and lentils (see page 224).
This good-to-eat seed (grain) that came from the Andes can be served as a side or main dish or as a replacement for rice. It is a nutritional wonder with much the same protein profile as milk. It has only one problem: it is saponaceous, meaning that when put into water it foams up like suds and is disagreeable. However, most quinoa on sale has usually been prerinsed, avoiding this. If yours hasn’t, remedy the situation by placing it in a fine sieve and running it under cold water.
Quinoa is one of my new favorites and can be eaten as a side dish or cooked longer to become mushy and eaten as a cereal (see page 16). It can also be used as a coating for foods that will be sautéed. There are red and brown varieties. The red is particularly attractive but takes longer to cook and never gets quite as soft as the lighter kind. Quinoa flour is also available and used for baking. For basic quinoa preparation and recipes, see page 168, as well as the table on page 222.
Rice is one of the world’s most important starches and is probably eaten by more people than any other. In China and South Korea, when one wants to ask if someone has eaten, the question is “Have you had rice today?” Rice is relatively bland and, with the exception of black rice, makes a good background for other flavors, and is a fine absorber of flavors. Rice is usually polished, which removes the bran and the germ and makes it white but leaves it very low in nutritional value. It is also ground into flour and used in batters, which become translucent when fried. Rice comes in many colors and sizes, each of which cooks somewhat differently. Different countries and different cuisines opt for different kinds of rice from that for sushi (short-grain white rice) to that for risotto (arborio, carnaroli, or vialone nano). Using a different rice will change the amount of liquid needed, the cooking time, and the result.
BASICS
Cooking times for white rice will depend on the size of the rice. Rice is stirred into boiling water, the heat reduced to simmer (if using an electric burner, move the pot to a different burner and set it to low heat to avoid residual high temperatures), the pot covered, and the rice cooked until tender.
Glutinous white rice is soaked, drained, added to water, then brought to a boil; the heat is reduced to simmer and the rice is cooked for 15 to 20 minutes.
Black, brown, red, and short-grain white rice are added to water, then brought to a boil in a small saucepan, then reduced to simmer, the pot covered, and the rice cooked until tender.
Black rice is a partially milled rice that is high in iron and fiber and has a nutty taste. Black rice may also be sold as black Japonica rice, which is actually a combination of Asian black short-grain rice and medium-grain mahogany rice. Forbidden rice is a variety of black rice so named because it was originally enjoyed only by the emperor of China in the Forbidden City. This black rice turns purple when cooked and is similar in nutrient profile to regular black rice. The rice is quite regal looking in its deep purple glory when fully cooked, but unfortunately resembles rodent droppings when raw. Nevertheless, the nutty flavor, firm texture, and glossy appearance when cooked make this rice an ideal companion to richly flavored meats like duck and pork. This sturdier grain does not get mushy in the presence of sauce or liquids.
To make black/forbidden rice, use 1 part rice to 1¾ parts water and cook for 30 minutes. The yield will be 2⅔ times the quantity of raw rice.
Brown rice is the first rice that emerges after the outer husks are removed once the rice crop has been harvested. After the remaining husks (rice bran) and germ are removed, the result is white rice. The less-processed, more-whole-grain brown rice has more nutrients, including B vitamins, fiber, iron, and magnesium, than its white counterpart but it turns rancid much faster than white rice. It is nutty in flavor, chewy, and takes much longer to cook than white rice. This rice cannot be used interchangeably with white rice when making stuffings for vegetables or meats. This sturdier grain does not get mushy in the presence of sauces or liquids.
To make brown rice, use 1 part rice to 2½ parts water and cook for 35 to 40 minutes. The yield will be 4 times the quantity of raw rice.
Bhutanese red rice is a semimilled medium-grain rice that retains some of the rice bran (this is what makes the rice reddish in color). The nutritional profile is similar to that of brown rice, although it takes less time to cook than brown rice and longer to cook than white rice. This rice has been a staple of the Bhutanese people and has only recently been allowed to be imported into the United States, although in limited quantities. In our testing, it was not an audience favorite. There is a slight funky aftertaste.
To make red rice, use 1 part rice to 1¾ parts water and cook for 30 minutes. The yield will be 2½ times the quantity of raw rice.
This is the polished grain that emerges once the outer husk and rice bran have been removed. Not surprisingly, there is little nutritional value left after all that processing. But what white rice lacks in nutrients it makes up for in shelf life. This type of rice can be stored for much longer than all other types of rice. There are many varieties of white rice found in different parts of the globe. The Italians have three types of short-grain white rice with a white dot in the center: arborio, carnaroli, and vialone nano. The long and slender white basmati rice is enjoyed with Indian cuisine. In East Asia, Koreans, Chinese, and Japanese enjoy short-grain white rice but prepare it with different quantities of water such that Korean and Japanese rice is stickier than the lighter, nuttier-tasting Chinese rice. In Thailand, long-grain jasmine white rice is king, while in the Americas both long-grain and short-grain rices are enjoyed. White rice has a neutral flavor, and most varieties (Italian short-grain white does not fall into this category) do not hold up well against liquids and sauces because they become soft and mushy pretty quickly.
To make long-grain/Carolina, basmati, or jasmine white rice, use 1 part rice to 1¾ parts water and cook for 15 minutes. The yield will be 3 times the quantity of raw rice.
To make short-grain white rice, use 1 part rice to 1½ parts water and cook for 15 minutes. The yield will be 3 times the quantity of raw rice. Also see the table on page 223.
GLUTINOUS WHITE RICE: Also known as sticky, waxy, pearl, botan, mochi, or sweet rice, glutinous white rice is cultivated all over Asia, showing up in Chinese, Japanese, Korean, Thai, Laotian, Vietnamese, Philippine, and Burmese dishes. A single gene mutation causes the characteristic stickiness that makes this rice different from plain white rice. Though milled sticky rice is always white, unmilled sticky rice may be black or purple in color.
To make glutinous white rice, soak 1 part rice in 3 parts warm water for 15 minutes; drain and then combine the rice with 1¼ parts water and cook for 15 to 20 minutes. The yield will be 2¼ times the quantity of raw rice.
CONVERTED RICE: Converted rice is precooked and dehydrated rice. It is a long-grain rice that takes longer to cook than other kinds of white rice. It tends to stay firmer than the others.
RISOTTO RICE: There are three types of short-grain rice that have been developed in Italy for the making of risotto. They are all short-grain and starchy and have a white, opaque dot in the middle. Arborio is the most common and white. Vialone nano, which is somewhat more delicate in taste, is also white. Carnaroli is slightly yellow and good with seafood.
To make arborio or carnaroli rice, add 1 part rice to 2 parts boiling water. Reduce to a simmer, cover, and cook for 25 minutes. The yield will be 3 times the quantity of raw rice for arborio and slightly less than 3 times for carnaroli.
To make vialone nano rice, add 1 part rice to 2 parts boiling water. Reduce to a simmer, cover, and cook for 20 to 24 minutes. The yield will be slightly less than 3 times the quantity of raw rice.
Rice bran is the husk that comes from polishing brown rice. It does not dissolve in liquid but will make it slightly cloudy. It does not behave like a traditional thickening agent, so it cannot be used in a slurry. It does not even taste very good on its own. Rice bran is a fantastic alternative to flour for food to be dredged. The bran grains themselves are quite small, so a little goes a long way. Generally, about half as much rice bran is needed for dredging food as for flour. Rice bran is loaded with vitamins B and E and fiber and is not broken down during digestion. As a result, it acts like a plumber’s snake in the bloodstream, chipping away at fat deposits.
Rice flours are made from grinding raw rice and can be made from any variety, with white rice flour being the most common. This flour is ideal for frying as it forms a very crisp crust when exposed to hot oil. Rice flour and soda water combine to make a quick and easy tempura batter. It can also be used widely in gluten-free baking. White rice flour is a relatively tasteless flour that can also be an ideal thickening agent. Brown rice flour can be used for baking and frying, although the nuttier taste and color make it far less neutral than its white sister. Glutinous or sweet rice flour is made from glutinous or sticky rice. It is also used as a thickening agent and for some desserts. When even more finely ground, it is rice starch.
For how to cook, see the table on page 223.
Typically enjoyed in East Asian cuisines, rice noodles (also called sticks) come in a variety of shapes and textures. They can be translucent or opaque. The thinnest are known as rice vermicelli (but when made with mung bean starch they are called bean vermicelli) and sai fun (Chinese). The thinnest noodles generally come in 3-ounce bundles like skeins of wool. They often come several to a package. These noodles do not need to be cooked but need to be soaked in hot water until pliable. They can also be deep-fried in hot oil. Broader rice noodles may also be called vermicelli or mai fun (Chinese). These noodles come in 8-ounce packages and can be broken into pieces. The broadest/widest noodles which must be cooked are called chow fun (Chinese). The thickest rice noodles are known as pad thai (in Thailand) and are used in the dish of the same name. They come in 6- and 12-inch lengths. Sometimes both sizes come in the same package. To make them uniform, simply clip the longer noodles in half with kitchen scissors. The best method for these thick noodles is to soak them in water until they are flexible and then briefly cook them in boiling water.
BASICS
Bring 6 quarts of water to a boil in a large saucepan over high heat. Add 1 package rice noodles (about 8 ounces). Cook 1/16-inch-thick noodles for 3 minutes, or ¼-inch-wide flat noodles for 7 minutes. (Different thicknesses will vary proportionately in cooking time and yield.) Drain in a colander. Shock with cold running water until the noodles are cool to the touch.
YIELD
4 cups (1/16-inch-thick noodles) or 7 cups (¼-inch-wide noodles)
Soak the noodles in hot water for 5 minutes, cook for 1 minute in boiling water, then finish in sauce.
For very fine rice noodles (vermicelli or sai fun), no cooking is required. Simply soak the noodles in warm water until they are pliable (depending on the noodle, this could be 3 minutes to 1 hour). One bunch of noodles equals 2 cups of limp noodles.
Rice paper is translucent, thin, and brittle. To use rice paper, it must first be soaked in warm water to rehydrate it and make it malleable. Undersoaking rice paper will result in cracks, and oversoaking will result in tears to the fragile sheets. Rice paper comes either round or square in various sizes. It can be used raw to make Vietnamese summer rolls or wrapped around filling and deep-fried.
This grass is rich in iron, calcium, and potassium and is more slowly digested than many other grains, which may make it a healthful alternative both for nutritional value and as an insoluble fiber. It has a neutral color but a slightly sweet and grassy taste. When it is cooked, it is somewhat grainy, so it should be avoided in larger quantities when a smooth and silky texture is wanted.
When I was growing up, puddings made of whole tapioca were called “fish eyes and glue.” The French used to use tapioca in clear soups instead of noodles. This easily digested, gluten-free starch has a limited nutritional profile in that it really provides only calories in the form of carbohydrates. It does contribute a small amount of the daily iron requirement but nothing else. Tapioca starch cannot be eaten alone as it taste likes plastic and is not recommended as a thickening agent in large amounts. The powder is white but turns clear when cooked in liquid.
Teff is the smallest grain in the world, measuring only 1/32 inch in diameter. Traditionally used to make the Ethiopian flatbread injera, teff flour comes from the grain of an annual grass cultivated in the horn of Africa. Teff has a favorable nutritional profile as it is both gluten-free and loaded with iron and all eight essential amino acids. It also provides calcium, protein, and dietary fiber. The grain itself has a nutty and slightly funky taste. Teff flour can be used in both savory and sweet preparations, and it can be cooked with water like a polenta to make an alternative starchy side dish. It also can be combined with chestnut flour in sweet preparations or for baking as it adds elasticity to doughs. For cooking times and recipes, see pages 169–70.
Wild rice is not a true rice but a grass. It is high in protein and fiber and low in fat. It takes much longer to cook than brown and white rice. The long and slender seeds burst during cooking, revealing a bright white interior. The nutty flavor is distinct from brown rice, and the firm exterior even when fully cooked may not be enjoyed by all.
BASICS
To make wild rice, use 1 part wild rice to 4 parts water and cook for 50 minutes. The yield will be 3 times the quantity of uncooked rice. (See also the table on page 222.)
Bring water to a boil; stir in the rice and return the water to a boil; reduce the heat to simmer, cover, and cook until tender.
| Grains | Amount | Water | Cooking time | Yield | Color | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
|
Corn flour (Beretta) |
½ cup |
3 cups |
30 minutes |
2½ cups |
Yellow |
No flavor, too firm |
|
Cornmeal, yellow |
½ cup |
2 cups |
4 to 5 minutes |
1¾ cups |
Yellow |
More flavor than white meal |
|
Cornmeal, white |
½ cup |
2 cups |
4 to 5 minutes |
2 cups |
White |
Least flavor. Looser than yellow meal |
|
Grits, Bob’s corn |
½ cup |
2 cups |
5 to 6 minutes |
1¾ cups |
Yellow |
Best tasting. Best texture |
|
Grits, old-fashioned |
½ cup |
2 cups |
15 minutes |
1¾ cups |
White |
Better flavor and texture than instant |
|
Grits, quick |
½ cup |
2 cups |
5 minutes |
1¾ cups |
White |
Inferior taste and texture compared with old-fashioned grits |
|
Kasha |
½ cup |
1 cup |
10 minutes |
1¼ cups |
Light brown |
Good texture, slightly nutty flavor |
|
Millet (cook covered) |
½ cup |
1½ cups |
25 to 30 minutes |
1½ cups |
Yellow |
Can be substituted for quinoa, although increases in size more than quinoa |
|
Polenta, instant (Beretta) |
½ cup |
3 cups |
5 to 6 minutes |
2¾ cups |
Yellow |
Satisfactory in all aspects |
|
Polenta, instant (Colavita) |
½ cup |
3 cups |
5 minutes |
2½ cups |
Yellow |
Satisfactory in all aspects |
|
Quinoa (Roland) (cook covered) |
½ cup |
1 cup |
15 minutes |
1 cup |
Beige |
Cooks faster and is nuttier than millet |
|
Quinoa (Shiloh) (cook covered) |
½ cup |
1 cup |
15 minutes |
1⅓ cups |
Beige |
Darker, fluffier, and larger than Roland grains when cooked. Tastier than Roland |
|
Quinoa (Whole Foods) (cook covered) |
½ cup |
1 cup |
13 to 15 minutes |
1¾ cups |
Beige |
Lighter color, firmer texture, larger than Roland, similar in size to Shiloh. Tastiest |
|
Rice, brown (cook covered) |
½ cup |
1¼ cups |
40 minutes |
2 cups |
Dark tan |
Very nutty, great texture, drier |
|
Rice, white short grain (cook covered) |
½ cup |
7/8 cup |
15 minutes |
1½ cups |
Off white |
Nutty, good texture, slightly sticky |
|
Rice, wild (cook covered) |
½ cup |
2 cups |
50 minutes |
1½ cups |
Dark brown |
Very nutty, long cooking time, some split grains |
NOTES: Across the board, grits were more flavorful than cornmeal or corn flour, with Bob’s corn grits being the clear winner in terms of taste and texture.
Not all polentas are created equal: different brands had subtle differences in cooking time, taste, and yields.
Different brands of quinoa also showed differences in size of grain, color, taste, and yields.
Wild rice took the longest to cook and occasionally split during the process. It doesn’t act like the other rice because it is not true rice.