I once spent three weeks in Kenya and Tanzania, where I saw and ate a lot, but I have never been to Ethiopia. Oddly enough, I have never even eaten in an Ethiopian restaurant in this country. The inspiration for all of these recipes comes from the many African cookbooks that I have collected and cooked from over the years and from my sister Mary, who lives in Minneapolis. For years, Mary raved about an Ethiopian food truck she frequents and we finally tried it together on one of my visits. I ate injera (flat bread) and wot (stew) from the truck, which parks on Nicolett Mall in downtown Minneapolis.
After that food-truck experience, I tried to make injera several times, even tracking down the traditional teff (a cereal grass) flour that it calls for, but every attempt was a miserable failure. Then I found a recipe in Peter Reinhart’s Whole Grain Breads: New Techniques, Extraordinary Flavor and I decided to give injera one more try. I restocked my teff flour and whipped up a batch of the flat bread, following Peter’s excellent directions. This time I was successful—great injera and very easy to make. You can seek out Peter’s injera recipe, though you may want to save time and buy the bread from an Ethiopian restaurant or bakery, which is what the recipe testers did.
This chapter does not include a dessert. That’s because the traditional Ethiopian meal does not finish with a pastry or other sweet. Some books suggest serving chilled fresh fruits, which is one of my favorite ways to end a dinner. The fruits help cleanse the palate and settle the stomach after the spicy foods. Ethiopians then cap the meal with small cups of strong coffee. If you crave something sweet, you can serve a honey or custard filo pastry from North Africa, Egypt, or even the Middle East.
Swiss Chard
WITH COTTAGE CHEESE AND SPICED BUTTER
Collard greens are the typical choice for this dish, but I have found that rainbow chard is equally good prepared this way. Traditionally, this dish is served with injera, which is soft and crepelike, but it is also great with crisp flat bread, crackers, or pita.
Look for a European-style butter, which has a higher butterfat content and less water than standard U.S. butter, to clarify for making the
spiced butter. As mentioned earlier, Plugrá is a popular U.S. brand. Or, pick up some Irish butter, such as Kerrygold brand. It is important to start with one of these denser butters because butter loses its water when you clarify it. Any butter will work, but a less dense, more watery butter will take longer to clarify and will yield a smaller amount of clarified butter.
You will need to use a
heat diffuser when flavoring the butter with the spices. The heat diffuser, which allows for very slow, gentle cooking, will ensure that the milk solids in the butter won’t burn while the spices are flavoring the oil in the butter. If you will be making the lentil stew that goes with this menu, you will need all of the butter this recipe yields. But don’t worry if you have some left over. I find it quite addictive and a delicious way to dress up everything from popcorn to mixed nuts to a broiled fish fillet. In fact, you may want to make extra on purpose; it will keep in the freezer for 4 to 6 weeks.
| SERVES 6
1 POUND EUROPEAN-STYLE UNSALTED BUTTER
¼ CUP MINCED YELLOW ONION
1 CLOVE GARLIC, MINCED
1 TABLESPOON PEELED AND GRATED FRESH GINGER
½ TEASPOON GROUND CINNAMON
3 GREEN CARDAMOM PODS, CRUSHED
1-INCH PIECE CINNAMON STICK
2 WHOLE CLOVES
SEVERAL NUTMEG GRATINGS OR MACE BLADES
1½ CUPS SMALL-CURD COTTAGE CHEESE OR GREEK-STYLE PLAIN YOGURT
⅔ CUP SPICED BUTTER (ABOVE)
SEA SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER
2 POUNDS RAINBOW CHARD
1 TABLEPOON PEELED AND MINCED FRESH GINGER
2 SMALL CLOVES GARLIC, MINCED
⅓ CUP MINCED YELLOW ONION
SEA SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER
To make the butter, in a saucepan, melt the butter over medium-high heat. When it has fully melted, add the onion, garlic, ginger, ground cinnamon, cardamom, cinnamon stick, cloves, and nutmeg and heat just until the butter comes to a boil. Move the pan to a burner covered with a heat diffuser and cook over the lowest heat setting for 45 minutes.
Line a fine-mesh sieve with cheesecloth. Strain the butter through the sieve into a container with a tight-fitting lid. You should have 1 cup. Let cool before using in the topping. Cover and refrigerate or freeze the remainder.
To make the topping, in a bowl, stir together the cottage cheese, spiced butter, garlic, ¼ to ½ teaspoon salt, and ¼ teaspoon pepper. Taste and adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper if needed. Let the mixture sit at room temperature for at least 20 minutes to allow the flavors to develop. If you like, fish out and discard the garlic clove just before serving.
To make the greens, trim any rough ends off of the chard stems and then tear the leaves from the stems. Cut the stems crosswise into thin strips (matchsticks) and cut the leaves crosswise into ½-inch-wide ribbons. Keep the stems and leaves separate.
In a large sauté pan, heat the spiced butter over medium heat. Add the chard stems, ginger, garlic, and onion and cook, stirring occasionally, for about 8 minutes, until the stems are tender. Add the leaves and cook, stirring occasionally, for 5 to 8 minutes, until wilted. Season with salt and pepper.
To serve, pile the greens on a warmed platter and spoon the topping over them. Serve right away.
THE BEST TOOLS FOR SMASHING GARLIC ARE A MORTAR AND PESTLE AND A CHEF’S KNIFE. I ALWAYS USE THE SIDE OF THE CHEF’S KNIFE (THIS IS THE KNIFE WITH THE TRIANGULAR BLADE, RANGING IN LENGTH FROM 6 TO 12 INCHES LONG). TO SMASH GARLIC THIS WAY, WITH THE BLADE FACING AWAY FROM YOU, SET THE SIDE OF THE KNIFE (AT ITS WIDE END) ON TOP OF A CLOVE OF GARLIC. PLACE THE HEEL OF YOUR HAND ON THE FLAT SIDE OF THE KNIFE, AND APPLY FIRM PRESSURE DOWNWARD AND FORWARD; ALTERNATIVELY, YOU COULD SMACK THE SIDE OF THE BLADE FIRMLY WITH THE SIDE OF YOUR FIST. YOU CAN DO THIS WITH PEELED OR UNPEELED CLOVES. (ACTUALLY IT’S A PRETTY HANDY WAY TO PEEL A GARLIC CLOVE BECAUSE, WITH SOME PRACTICE, THE CLOVE WILL SPLINTER AND SEPARATE FROM ITS SKIN BUT REMAIN MOSTLY IN ONE PIECE.)
CENTRAL AFRICAN–INSPIRED SPINACH
I have used spinach here, but Swiss chard or beet or mustard greens would also be excellent prepared this way. I prefer my greens wilted and just tender, so I add them near the end of cooking. This dish is good over brown rice. | SERVES 6
2 TABLESPOONS CANOLA OR OTHER NEUTRAL OIL
2 SMALL RED ONIONS, MINCED
1 POBLANO (PASILLA) CHILE, STEMMED, SEEDED IF DESIRED, AND DICED
1 TEASPOON SEA SALT
½ TEASPOON CAYENNE PEPPER
¼ CUP SMOOTH PEANUT BUTTER MIXED WITH 2 TO 3 TABLESPOONS BOILING WATER UNTIL SMOOTH
4 POUNDS SPINACH, TOUGH STEMS REMOVED
In a large sauté pan, heat the canola oil over medium-high heat. When hot, add the onions and sauté for 5 to 10 minutes, until golden. Add the tomatoes, chile, salt, and cayenne and cook, stirring occasionally, for 2 to 3 minutes. Add the peanut butter mixture and the spinach and cook, stirring, until the greens are wilted to your liking. Transfer to a warmed serving bowl or platter and serve.
The
spice mix is what makes this dish so good. Depending on your tolerance for spicy food, include or leave out the seeds of the árbol chiles. If you like a lot of heat and spice, include every last chile seed and finish the dish with 1 tablespoon of the spice mix combined with 2 tablespoons of the spiced butter, stirring it into the stew or serving it on the side. (If you prefer, you can add the spice mix to warmed extra virgin olive oil, rather than the spiced butter.) You can also put some of the spice mix on the table for guests to add as they like. Any leftover spice mix is good on almonds or olives or in scrambled or deviled eggs. I have yet to find a premade spice mix, but I’m sure one is out there. It’s so tasty that I’m sure you will find many uses for it.
| SERVES 6
1 TEASPOON CUMIN SEEDS
½ TEASPOON FENUGREEK SEEDS
2 WHOLE CLOVES
SEEDS FROM 3 GREEN CARDAMOM PODS
⅛ TEASPOON ALLSPICE BERRIES
¼ TEASPOON BLACK PEPPERCORNS
½ OUNCE DRIED ÁRBOL CHILE (ABOUT 18 DRIED CHILES), GROUND
¼ CUP SWEET PAPRIKA
¼ TEASPOON GROUND GINGER
⅛ TEASPOON GROUND TURMERIC
2 TABLESPOONS CAYENNE PEPPER
1 YELLOW ONION, MINCED
4 TO 6 CLOVES GARLIC, MINCED
2 TABLESPOONS SPICE MIX (ABOVE)
1½ CUPS RED LENTILS, RINSED AND PICKED OVER FOR DEBRIS
2 CUPS WATER
1 TEASPOON SEA SALT
WHISKED GREEK-STYLE PLAIN YOGURT, FOR GARNISH
CHIFFONADE-CUT FRESH MINT LEAVES, FOR GARNISH
To make the spice mix, in a sauté pan, combine the cumin, fenugreek, cloves, cardamom, allspice, and peppercorns over medium-high heat and toast, shaking the pan frequently, for 1 to 2 minutes, until very aromatic. Pour onto a plate and let cool and then finely grind in a spice grinder or a well-cleaned coffee grinder. Pass the freshly ground spices and the chile, paparika, ginger, turmeric, and cayenne through a fine-mesh sieve (make sure it is completely dry) or through a sifter into a bowl. You should have ½ to ⅔ cup. Store in a tightly capped container until needed.
To make the stew, in a large saucepan, melt 4 tablespoons of the spiced butter over medium-high heat. When the butter is hot, stir in the onion and garlic, decrease the heat to low, cover, and cook, stirring now and then, for 6 to 8 minutes, until the onion is translucent. Stir in 1 tablespoon of the spice mix and cook uncovered, stirring occasionally, for 1 to 2 minutes, until aromatic. Increase the heat to medium-high and add the lentils, tomatoes, and water. Bring to a boil, decrease the heat to a simmer, and cook uncovered for 12 to 20 minutes, until the lentils are very tender. The timing will depend on the age of the lentils.
For a spicier stew, while the lentils are cooking, melt the remaining 2 tablespoons spiced butter in a small sauté pan over medium-high heat. Add the remaining 1 tablespoon spice mix, decrease the heat to medium-low, and cook, stirring, for several minutes, until the spice mix is well incorporated and the butter is aromatic. Remove from the heat.
When the lentils are ready, add the salt and stir in the spiced butter–spice mix combination, if using. Transfer to a warmed serving bowl, top with a drizzle of yogurt and a sprinkle of mint for a cooling garnish, and serve.
Chicken and Egg Stew
This is one of the most frequently ordered dishes at Ethiopian restaurants in America. I like the fact that you get both the chicken and the egg at the same time, throwing into turmoil the question of which came first. (If you have extra company, or just an odd number, you can add another egg.) You want the eggs to be soft-boiled after their first cooking so they can finish in the stew. In the United States, cooks don’t often prepare eggs this way, which makes this dish a nice change. I especially like the textures of the egg and chicken combining in the same bite. The spices add depth and the ginger adds brightness, making this an addictive dish. If you don’t feel up to making Peter Reinhart’s injera from Whole Grain Breads, serve the stew with white or brown rice. | SERVES 6
6 EGGS
SEA SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER
2 LARGE YELLOW ONIONS, FINELY CHOPPED
3 CLOVES GARLIC, MINCED
1 TABLESPOON PEELED AND GRATED FRESH GINGER
1 (3- TO 3½-POUND) WELL-RAISED CHICKEN, SKINNED AND CUT INTO 6 SERVING PIECES
3 TO 4 TABLESPOONS TOMATO PASTE
Have ready an ice bath. In a saucepan, combine the eggs with water to cover by 1 inch and 2 teaspoons salt. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, decrease the heat to a simmer, and cook for 5 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, immediately transfer the eggs to the ice bath and let cool completely. Tap with a spoon, then one at a time, gently peel the eggs under cold running water and reserve. They’re just soft-cooked at this stage, so do be gentle.
In a large sauté pan, melt the butter over medium-high heat. (The amount of butter will depend on the size and depth of your pan; add the minimum first, then increase the amount to coat the bottom of the pan.) Add the onions, garlic, ginger, and spice mix, decrease the heat to low, and cook slowly, stirring occasionally, for 10 to 12 minutes, to develop the flavors.
Meanwhile, season the chicken pieces on both sides with salt and pepper. When the onion mixture is ready, increase the heat to medium-high, stir in the tomato paste (add the larger amount for a more tomatoey flavor), and cook for 1 to 2 minutes. Add the chicken pieces and coat well with the onion mixture. Pour in 2 cups of the stock, mix well, and then add more stock if needed to achieve a soupy stew consistency. Bring to a boil, decrease the heat to a simmer, and cook for 20 minutes.
Add the eggs to the pan and continue to cook for 8 to 10 minutes, until the sauce is nicely thickened and the egg yolks have more fully set. Taste and adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper. Remove the stew from the heat and let rest for 5 to 10 minutes before serving while you remove the eggs from the pan and slice them in half lengthwise. Transfer the stew to a nice serving bowl then tuck the egg slices back into the stew.
WARMING WINTER VEGETABLE STEW
WITH PEANUT SAUCE
You can adapt this stew to your liking with different vegetables you have on hand or with what looks good at the market. For a vegan stew, substitute canola oil for the butter. The spicy heat comes from the chiles, but you can add a spoonful of the spice mix in the
lentil stew in place of the chiles. The peanut butter can be smooth or crunchy—chef’s choice. Serve the stew over rice or baked or grilled sweet potatoes. Leftovers are good the next day at room temperature.
| SERVES 6
1 LEEK, WHITE AND LIGHT GREEN PARTS ONLY, SLICED, OR 1 YELLOW ONION, COARSELY CHOPPED
2 OR 3 DRIED ÁRBOL OR OTHER DRIED HOT CHILES, STEMMED, SEEDED IF DESIRED, AND CRUSHED
2 TABLESPOONS TOMATO PASTE
2 SMALL RUTABAGAS, TURNIPS, OR CARROTS, PEELED AND CUT INTO CHUNKS
8 OUNCES CABBAGE (¼ HEAD) OR PEELED WINTER SQUASH (½ AVERAGE-SIZE SQUASH), CUT INTO CHUNKS
2 TOMATOES,
PEELED AND CHOPPED, OR 2 CUPS CANNED TOMATOES
3 TO 4 CUPS COARSELY CHOPPED BEET, RUTABAGA, OR TURNIP GREENS
1 CUP (8 OUNCES) PEANUT BUTTER MIXED WITH 1½ CUPS BOILING WATER UNTIL SMOOTH
1 FULLY RIPENED (BLACK) PLANTAIN, PEELED AND DICED
SEA SALT
SALTED ROASTED PEANUTS, FOR GARNISH
In a large sauté pan, melt the butter over medium-high heat. Add the leek and cook, stirring often, for 3 to 5 minutes, until tender. Add the chiles and tomato paste and cook, stirring, for 1 to 2 minutes to brown slightly and heighten the flavor. Add the rutabagas, cabbage, and tomatoes and cook for 10 to 12 minutes, until the rutabagas are almost tender. Fold in the greens and continue to cook until the greens are wilted to your liking.
Stir in the peanut butter mixture and cook until piping hot and the vegetables can be easily pierced with a fork. Mix in the plantain and season with salt. Transfer to a warmed serving bowl or platter, garnish with the peanuts, and serve.
