The food of Morocco combines flavors and textures that are soothing, familiar, and irresistible: spicy harissa (hot chile sauce), rich lamb tagine (stew), and bright vegetable salad—dishes that I could live on all summer long (and all winter, too). Over the centuries, Moroccan cuisine has been influenced by the kitchens of the Arabs and the Berbers, the Spanish and the Portuguese, the Persians and the Senegalese, the French and more. The country itself is blessed with broad swaths of fertile land, towering mountain ranges, and both an Atlantic and a Mediterranean coast, all of which deliver an abundance of fine ingredients. It has three great culinary capitals—Marrakesh, Fez, and Tetúan—and many regional specialties tucked into geographical pockets large and small around the county.
Not surprisingly, Morocco’s culinary bounty made deciding which dishes to include in this menu challenging. Also, I find the cuisine a good match to every season, so I have provided both summer and winter recipes or variations for you to mix and match according to the time of year you are serving your Moroccan Supper Club feast.
Both the green and the black olives benefit from sitting in their marinade for several days before serving so they can soak up the flavor. But if you have not planned ahead, they will still taste good after just a day in the marinade. Although the olives are fine served at room temperature, I often gently warm them in a sauté pan. That little bit of heat brings out their flavors.
Although these olives will keep for weeks, I have always eaten them or used them up in sauces much sooner, and the seasonings do dissipate over time. Any of these green olives that are not eaten with your Moroccan meal are delicious in salads, as a garnish for fish or chicken, or pitted and slipped into roasted lamb sandwiches. | MAKES ABOUT 3 CUPS
3 CUPS BRINED GREEN OLIVES (SUCH AS CASTELVETRANO, PICHOLINE, OR MOROCCAN GREEN)
6 TABLESPOONS CHOPPED FRESH CILANTRO, LEAVES AND TENDER STEMS ONLY
In a bowl, combine the olives and cold water to cover and let soak overnight.
Drain the olives in a colander, shaking the colander well to release as much liquid as possible, and transfer to a bowl. Add the garlic, cilantro, parsley, and harissa and stir to coat evenly. Cover and refrigerate for at least overnight or preferably up to several days. Bring to room temperature or warm gently in a sauté pan before serving.
BLACK OLIVES WITH PRESERVED LEMON
Like the green olives, these black olives will keep for several weeks. If you are lucky enough to have some black olives left over, they are delicious smashed and smeared on grilled garlic bread, tossed into pasta, scattered atop pizza, or made into tapenade for serving as is or for mixing with odd bits of cheese as a spread for vegetables or grilled breads. | MAKES ABOUT 3 CUPS
1 TO 2 TEASPOONS DRIED OREGANO
JUICE OF ½ LARGE LEMON
¼ CUP EXTRA VIRGIN OLIVE OIL
2 TEASPOONS
HARISSA, OR 1 TEASPOON RED PEPPER FLAKES
3 CUPS OIL-CURED BLACK OLIVES
Cut or pull away any pulp from the preserved lemon and discard it. Finely julienne or mince the peel and place in a small bowl. Crumble the dried oregano over the lemon peel. Add the lemon juice, olive oil, and harissa and stir to mix. Put the olives in a bowl, pour the lemon peel mixture over the top, and stir to combine.
Cover and refrigerate for at least overnight or preferably up to several days. Bring to room temperature or warm gently in a sauté pan before serving.
It is good to use organic produce whenever possible, but it is particularly important with this recipe because you will be eating the peel. | MAKES ABOUT 1 QUART
12 TO 14 LEMONS
2 TO 3 CUPS KOSHER SALT
1 TABLESPOON BLACK PEPPERCORNS, COARSELY CRACKED
1 TABLESPOON RED PEPPER FLAKES
1 CINNAMON STICK
1 TO 2 CUPS FRESHLY SQUEEZED LEMON JUICE
Have ready a sterilized quart (or larger) glass jar with a tight-fitting lid (see instructions on
how to sterilize the jar).
Rinse the lemons well. Working with 1 lemon at a time, cut in half from the top (stem end) to the bottom three-fourths of the way through, keeping the base intact. Then cut in half again from the top to the bottom three-fourths of the way through, keeping the base intact. When pulled open gently, the lemon should look like a four-petaled flower. Repeat with the remaining lemons.
Sprinkle the inside of each lemon liberally with some of the salt. Pack a layer of lemons, standing them upright with the cut end up, into the sterilized jar. Sprinkle liberally with the salt and then with some of the peppercorns and red pepper flakes. Add additional layers in the same manner, packing each layer tightly and seasoning with the salt, peppercorns, and red pepper flakes. As the lemons climb up the sides of the jar, tuck the cinnamon stick down the side of the jar. Be sure to pack the lemons firmly. Don’t worry about keeping the lemons perfect, as you will cut away the pulp and use only the peel.
Once all of the lemons are packed into the jar, pour in enough lemon juice to fill all of the spaces around them, wiggling the lemons as you pour to make sure you eliminate all of the air pockets. A chopstick comes in handy for this task. Seal the jar tightly and let rest at cool room temperature or wine-cellar temperature for 4 to 6 weeks (out of direct sunlight). To help the salt dissolve, turn the jar upside down a couple of times a day during the first week and once or twice a week for the rest of the time.
The lemons are ready when the peels are tender (only the peels are used in recipes that call for preserved lemon). Once the jar has been opened, refrigerate and take out just what you need using tongs or a spoon to avoid contaminating the remaining contents of the jar.
I have used this traditional North African condiment in the
marinades for olives, but it can used in many ways: on scrambled eggs; mixed into butter or olive oil and drizzled over panfried or grilled steaks, lamb chops, or chicken breasts; or alongside grilled fish with couscous. Or, for a tasty vegetarian main dish, whisk a couple of spoonfuls into a lemon vinaigrette (3 parts extra virgin olive oil, 1 part freshly squeezed lemon juice, sea salt, and freshly ground black pepper) and spoon the vinaigrette over roasted potatoes or sweet potatoes with or without fresh goat cheese or feta cheese and grilled onions.
| MAKES ABOUT ⅓ CUP
2 TO 4 SERRANO OR FRESNO CHILES AND 1 TO 3 FRESH RED CHILES (SUCH AS CAYENNE OR THAI BIRD), STEMMED AND SEEDED IF DESIRED; OR 10 DRIED ÁRBOL OR OTHER DRIED HOT CHILES, STEMMED, SEEDED IF DESIRED, SOAKED IN HOT WATER TO COVER FOR 5 TO 10 MINUTES, AND DRAINED
¼ CUP EXTRA VIRGIN OLIVE OIL, PLUS MORE FOR STORAGE IF NEEDED
4 CLOVES GARLIC
GRATED ZEST AND JUICE OF ½ LEMON
1 TABLESPOON SWEET OR HOT PAPRIKA
1 TEASPOON CUMIN SEEDS,
TOASTED IN A DRY PAN UNTIL FRAGRANT AND THEN GROUND
½ TEASPOON SEA SALT
½ TEASPOON CAYENNE PEPPER (OPTIONAL)
In a food processor, combine the chiles and oil and process until no large chunks of chile remain. Add the garlic, lemon zest and juice, paprika, cumin, salt, and cayenne and process until a paste forms. Use immediately, or transfer to a container with a tight-fitting lid, pour a thin layer of olive oil on top, cover, and refrigerate. It will keep for up to several weeks.
This soup, which is one of the dishes in the traditional meal that breaks the Ramadan fast, typically includes lamb, but I have a vegetarian version here. What makes the soup so special is the date and lemon garnish.
The recipe calls for cooked and cooled chickpeas and lentils. You can cook the chickpeas the same way you cook the
pot beans, minus the epazote sprig, or you can use canned chickpeas. If you opt for the latter, you should still rub the skins off the beans. To do that, rub them gently between your palms, or place them on half of a large clean kitchen towel, cover with the other half of the towel, and gently roll the chickpeas back and forth, using your palms, until you see the skins separating, then pick the skins off. Don’t apply too much pressure or you will end up with chickpea paste. I like to use red lentils, which are easily cooked in boiling water to cover for about 15 minutes, depending on their age. If you cannot find them, any color lentil will do.
I like the robust flavor of this dish when using the authentic amount of spices, but I’ve included the key spices as a range below; you can opt for the smaller amount if that better suits your guests’ tastes. | SERVES 6 TO 8
3 TABLESPOONS OLIVE OIL
2 YELLOW ONIONS, SLICED
3 CELERY STALKS, SLICED CROSSWISE
½ TO 1 TABLESPOON GROUND TURMERIC
½ TO 1 TEASPOON CUMIN SEEDS,
TOASTED IN A DRY PAN UNTIL FRAGRANT AND THEN GROUND
1 TEASPOON SEA SALT
½ TEASPOON FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER
JUICE OF 2 LEMONS (ABOUT ¼ CUP)
4 TO 6 TOMATOES (2 TO 2½ CUPS), PEELED (SEE BELOW) AND GRATED ON THE LARGE HOLES OF A BOX GRATER, WITH JUICE RESERVED
4 CUPS WATER OR VEGETABLE STOCK
2 CUPS (4 OUNCES) DRIED CHICKPEAS, COOKED, COOLED, AND TOUGH SKINS RUBBED OFF, OR 1 (15-OUNCE) CAN CHICKPEAS, DRAINED, RINSED, AND TOUGH SKINS RUBBED OFF
¾ CUP (4 OUNCES) LENTILS, PREFERABLY RED
2 TABLESPOONS MINCED FRESH CILANTRO
2 TABLESPOONS SEMOLINA
4 OUNCES THIN VERMICELLI, BROKEN INTO SPOON-SIZE LENGTHS
½ CUP CHOPPED PITTED DATES, FOR GARNISH
LEMON WEDGES, FOR GARNISH
In a soup pot, heat the olive oil over medium-high heat. Add the onions and celery and cook, stirring occasionally, for about 10 minutes, until tender but not browned. Decrease the heat if the vegetables begin to brown. Add the turmeric, cumin, salt, and pepper and cook for about 1 minute. Add the lemon juice, tomatoes and their juice, water, chickpeas, lentils, cilantro, and 2 tablespoons of the parsley and bring to a boil. Decrease the heat to a quiet simmer and cook for 20 minutes, skimming off any foam that rises to the surface.
Ladle out about 1 cup of the hot soup and whisk the semolina into it until dissolved. Whisk the semolina mixture back into the pot. Add the vermicelli and cook just until tender. Watch closely as the noodles cook very quickly.
Put the dates, lemon wedges, and the remaining 3 tablespoons parsley in separate small bowls. Ladle the soup into warmed bowls and serve. Pass the garnishes at the table.
TO PEEL TOMATOES, SELECT A POT THAT’S LARGE ENOUGH TO COMFORTABLY HOLD ALL YOUR TOMATOES, FILL WITH WATER, AND BRING TO A BOIL. MEANWHILE, SET UP A BIG BOWL OF ICE WATER. CORE THE TOMATOES, THEN TURN THEM OVER AND CUT AN X INTO THEIR SKINS AT THEIR BOTTOMS. PLACE THE TOMATOES IN THE BOILING WATER FOR 5 TO 10 SECONDS, JUST UNTIL THE SKINS START TO PUCKER. TRANSFER IMMEDIATELY TO THE ICE BATH. THE SKINS SHOULD PEEL OFF EASILY.
Clockwise, from top left: Homemade Date Candy, Bachelor’s Lamb Tangia, Summer and Winter Bell Pepper Salads, Winter Squash and Eggplant Tagine
WINTER SQUASH AND EGGPLANT TAGINE
WITH COUSCOUS
You can serve this vegetable stew as a lovely simple meal on its own, or with a roasted leg of lamb for a more elaborate supper. The term tagine is used both for a slowly simmered stew and for the round earthenware dish with a conical lid in which the stew is cooked. A gratin dish or a roasting pan can be used in place of the classic tagine. To save steps, I roast the vegetables in a big gratin dish, rather than sauté them in batches. This method also uses less oil.
If you have ever made chickpeas from fresh, you will appreciate how much work they are. Fresh chickpeas are small, hard-to-open pods that require careful shucking before they can be cooked. I have also used fresh shelling beans, such as cranberry beans, in this recipe with great success. They are easily found at farmers’ markets in fall. Both the sauce and the
harissa may be made a day or two ahead and kept tightly covered in the refrigerator.
| SHOWN HERE | SERVES 6 TO 8
2 CLOVES GARLIC
2 JALAPEÑO CHILES, STEMMED, SEEDED IF DESIRED
1 TEASPOON CUMIN SEEDS,
TOASTED IN A DRY PAN UNTIL FRAGRANT AND THEN GROUND
JUICE OF 1 LEMON
6 TO 8 TABLESPOONS OLIVE OIL
2 PINCHES OF SEA SALT
1 CUP CHOPPED FRESH CILANTRO
1½ TEASPOONS CORIANDER SEEDS
1½ TEASPOONS CUMIN SEEDS
1 TEASPOON CARAWAY SEEDS
1 TEASPOON SWEET PAPRIKA
1 TEASPOON GROUND GINGER
1 TEASPOON RED PEPPER FLAKES
½ TEASPOON GROUND ALLSPICE
2 TO 3 TABLESPOONS OLIVE OIL
1 LARGE YELLOW ONION, MINCED
2 CLOVES GARLIC, MINCED
1 JALAPEÑO CHILE, STEMMED, SEEDED IF DESIRED, AND MINCED
2 TO 3 CUPS TOMATO PUREE
1 TABLESPOON HONEY
1 TEASPOON SEA SALT
½ TO 1 CUP WATER
1⅓ CUPS (8 OUNCES) DRIED CHICKPEAS, OR 3 CUPS FRESH SHELLING BEANS (SUCH AS FRESH CRANBERRY BEANS) OR CHICKPEAS, RINSED AND PICKED OVER FOR DEBRIS
1 CARROT, PEELED AND CUT INTO 4 CHUNKS
1 CELERY STALK, CUT INTO 4 CHUNKS
ZEST OF 1 LEMON, PEELED WITH A VEGETABLE PEELER IN 1 LONG STRIP AND KEPT INTACT, IF POSSIBLE
2 SMALL TO MEDIUM EGGPLANTS, TRIMMED AND CUT INTO 2-INCH PIECES
2 OR 3 SMALL ZUCCHINI, CUT INTO 1½-INCH-THICK ROUNDS
SEA SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER
2 POUNDS KABOCHA, RED KURI, OR OTHER TASTY WINTER SQUASH, PEELED, SEEDED, AND DICED
4 TO 6 TABLESPOONS OLIVE OIL
2 CUPS DRAINED, COOKED BEANS (ABOVE)
¼ CUP OIL-CURED BLACK OLIVES, PITTED
1½ CUPS QUICK-COOKING COUSCOUS
1½ CUPS VEGETABLE STOCK OR WATER
PINCH OF GROUND CINNAMON (OPTIONAL)
¾ TEASPOON SEA SALT
1½ TABLESPOONS UNSALTED BUTTER, AT ROOM TEMPERATURE, OR OLIVE OIL
GREEK-STYLE PLAIN YOGURT, FOR GARNISH
To make the harissa, in a blender or food processor, combine the garlic, chiles, cumin, lemon juice, 6 tablespoons of the oil, salt, and cilantro and process until well mixed. Add some or all of the remaining 2 tablespoons oil, a little at a time, until the mixture is the consistency you like. (If you want to dollop it on at the end, use less oil, and if you want drizzle it on, use more oil.) Reserve until needed.
To make the sauce, in a mortar, combine the coriander, cumin, and caraway seeds and grind with a pestle until pulverized. Add the paprika, ginger, red pepper flakes, and allspice and mix well. Reserve until needed.
In a saucepan, heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil over medium-high heat. When the oil is hot, add the onion and garlic and cook, stirring, for 6 to 8 minutes, until soft and translucent. Add the chile and the reserved spice mixture and cook, stirring, until fragrant. Add the tomato puree (use the larger amount if you want a saucier dish), honey, salt, and ½ cup of the water. Cook, adding some or all of the remaining ½ cup water if the pan begins to dry out, for 20 to 30 minutes, until the flavors have developed and melded nicely. If the pan seems to be drying out too quickly, lower the heat to slow the cooking. You want to give all of the ingredients enough time to develop fully.
To cook the beans, in a large saucepan, combine the beans, carrot, celery, and lemon zest with water to cover generously (4 to 5 cups) and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Decrease the heat to a simmer, cover, and cook until the beans are tender. The timing will depend on the age of the beans. The fresh shelling beans will cook in about 20 minutes and the dried beans will take about twice as long, around 40 minutes. Drain the beans and discard the carrot, celery, and lemon zest. If you won’t be using the beans right away, refrigerate them once they have cooled, as the starches in cooked beans sour quickly.
Preheat the oven to 400°F. To prepare the vegetables, in a colander, toss the eggplant and zucchini with enough salt to coat them lightly and leave to drain for 30 minutes. Gently squeeze the excess moisture from the eggplant and zucchini, place in a large bowl, and add the winter squash. Drizzle with 4 tablespoons of the olive oil, sprinkle with pepper and a little additional salt, and toss to coat the vegetables evenly, adding some or all of the remaining 2 tablespoons oil if needed to coat everything. Be cautious with the salt, as the eggplant and zucchini will still have some salt in them.
Transfer the vegetables to a large gratin dish, spreading them in a single layer, and roast for 15 minutes. Give the vegetables a good stir and roast for 15 minutes longer. Remove the dish from the oven, add the beans, reserved sauce, and olives, and stir to mix well. Return the dish to the oven and cook for 30 minutes longer, until the winter squash is fork-tender.
When the vegetables are nearly ready, prepare the couscous. Put the couscous in a saucepan with a tight-fitting lid. Bring the stock to a boil over high heat. Pour the stock over the couscous, cover, and let sit for 5 minutes. In a small bowl, mix together the cinnamon and salt. Uncover, fluff the couscous, and mix in the butter and cinnamon mixture.
Serve the couscous on a large platter or divide among individual plates. With the back of a spoon, make a well in the center of the couscous. Scoop the vegetables into the well. Drizzle with some of the yogurt and top with some of the harissa. Pass the remaining yogurt and harissa at the table.
This is a compilation of a handful of different recipes, but it is inspired by a tangia, which, like tagine, is the name for both the meat stew and the earthenware vessel in which it is cooked. It is a specialty of Marrakesh and the dish is cooked by and for men. The cooking vessel is jar shaped, broader at the center and narrower at the top and bottom. The ingredients for the stew are put into the jar and the top of the jar is covered with parchment paper that is secured in place with string. Traditionally, the filled jar is carried to the local hammam (bathhouse) and buried in the hot ashes of the furnace that heats the baths, where it is left to cook for several hours.
The stew can be made with lamb, beef, or goat. When we made it for the Supper Club, we used local Napa Valley spring lamb from Don Watson’s Wooly Weeders. If you want to simplify the menu, you can serve this stew with one of the
pepper salads and the couscous that accompanies the
vegetable tagine. Set out plenty of bread for sopping up the juices. Ciabatta, which is crisp on the outside and light and airy on the inside, is ideal.
I have experimented with a number of different vessels for cooking this dish, including a Le Creuset enameled cast-iron
doufeu, a big cast-iron pot, and an antique cassoulet dish. Whichever type of pot you use, make sure it has a tight-fitting lid to preserve the delicious juices. The directions here are for slowly cooking the stew in the oven, but you can prepare it on the stove top, using a
heat diffuser to keep the heat gentle and steady. It can also be cooked in a wood-burning oven, an “egg cooker” barbecue grill, or even a slow cooker.
The
ras el hanout (spice mixture) is critical to this dish, but if you don’t have a full spice cabinet or you just want to reduce the number of ingredients, you can use a mixture of 1 tablespoon ground cumin, ½ teaspoon ground allspice, and ¼ teaspoon saffron threads. Or, you can buy a premade mix; Kalustyan’s in New York City carries a good one (order online at
www.kalustyans.com). Preserved lemons can vary in size, which is why I have suggested 1 to 2 lemons in the ingredients list. If the preserved lemons you have are large, a single one will be sufficient.
| SHOWN HERE | SERVES 6 TO 8
1½ TEASPOONS BLACK PEPPERCORNS
1½ TEASPOONS CUMIN SEEDS,
TOASTED IN A DRY PAN UNTIL FRAGRANT
1 TEASPOON GROUND GINGER
1 TEASPOON GROUND CINNAMON
1 TEASPOON GROUND CORIANDER
½ NUTMEG, GRATED
¼ TEASPOON CAYENNE PEPPER OR HOT CHILE POWDER
4 GREEN CARDAMOM PODS, SEEDS GROUND
4 CLOVES, GROUND
3½ POUNDS BONELESS LAMB SHOULDER, CUT INTO 12 TO 14 PIECES
¼ CUP EXTRA VIRGIN OLIVE OIL
2 YELLOW ONIONS, COARSELY CHOPPED
CLOVES FROM 1 HEAD GARLIC, HALVED IF LARGE
½ BUNCH CILANTRO, LEAVES AND TENDER STEMS ONLY, MINCED
1½ TEASPOONS SEA SALT, PLUS MORE TO TASTE
1 TEASPOON GROUND GINGER
2 LARGE FRESH TOMATOES,
PEELED AND GRATED ON THE LARGE HOLES OF A BOX GRATER, OR 1½ TO 2 CUPS CANNED TOMATOES, GRATED OR CHOPPED
1 TO 1½ CUPS WATER OR LOW-SODIUM CHICKEN OR LAMB STOCK
To make the ras el hanout, combine the peppercorns, cumin, ginger, cinnamon, coriander, nutmeg, cayenne, cardamom, and cloves in a spice grinder or well-cleaned coffee grinder and grind to a powder. Or, grind together in a mortar with a pestle. Reserve until needed.
To cook the stew, preheat the oven to 275°F to 300°F (remember, the oven is low because this stew must cook very slowly).
In a heavy ovenproof pot with a tight-fitting lid, combine the lamb, butter, olive oil, onions, garlic, cilantro, parsley, lemon, 1½ teaspoons of the salt, the ginger, 1 teaspoon of the ras el hanout, the tomatoes, and 1 cup of the water and mix well. Add the remaining ½ cup water if it seems too dry. Cover and place in the oven for 2½ to 3 hours, until the lamb is very tender. Taste and adjust the seasoning with additional salt, if necessary
Transfer the stew to a warmed serving dish or serve directly from the pot. This is best eaten from a bowl with a soup spoon or dessert spoon, since the sauce is juicy. Pass the remaining ras el hanout at the table for diners to add as desired.
A HEAT DIFFUSER IS A DISK MADE FROM TWO SHEETS OF PERFORATED METAL WITH A SLIM CHANNEL OF SPACE BETWEEN THEM, AND IS USED TO DIFFUSE THE INTENSITY OF DIRECT HEAT ON THE STOVE TOP. IF YOU DON’T HAVE ONE, YOU CAN FASHION A HEAT DIFFUSER FROM ALUMINUM FOIL. BEFORE YOU START COOKING, FORM A THICK DOUGHNUT OUT OF ALUMINUM FOIL AND REST YOUR PAN ON THE MAKESHIFT DIFFUSER TO MAKE SURE IT IS STABLE. I HAVE ALSO STACKED TWO BURNER GRATES TO INCREASE THE DISTANCE BETWEEN THE HEAT AND THE PAN.
SUMMER AND WINTER BELL PEPPER SALADS
I like to peel my roasted peppers over a bowl to catch the flavorful juices. I also squeeze the juice and seeds from the tomatoes into a fine-mesh sieve placed over a bowl to capture the juices. Both the pepper juice and the tomato juice go into the pan with the other ingredients. If you want to skip roasting the pepper, you can buy jarred roasted peppers, though the flavor will not be as good.
| SHOWN HERE | EACH SALAD SERVES 6 TO 8
4 RED BELL PEPPERS,
ROASTED, PEELED, STEMMED, AND SEEDED
3 TABLESPOONS OLIVE OIL
1 POUND TOMATOES,
PEELED, HALVED THROUGH THE STEM END, HALVES SQUEEZED OF SEEDS AND JUICE, AND CUT LENGTHWISE INTO WIDE STRIPS
2 CLOVES GARLIC, SLICED
1 OR 2 SERRANO CHILES, STEMMED, SEEDED IF DESIRED, AND SLIT OR SLICED
¼ TO ½ TEASPOON SEA SALT
Tear each bell pepper lengthwise into its natural segments, then tear each segment into halves or thirds, depending on the size of the peppers.
In a large sauté pan, heat the olive oil over medium-high heat. When the oil is hot, add the bell peppers, tomatoes (and all of the pepper and tomato juices), garlic, and chiles and simmer for 10 to 20 minutes, until the flavors have blended. Add ¼ teaspoon of the salt, then taste and add more salt if needed.
Spread the vegetables on a platter and let cool. Cover and chill before serving.
WINTER BELL PEPPER SALAD
4 GREEN BELL PEPPERS OR MIXTURE OF GREEN BELL PEPPERS AND POBLANO (PASILLA) PEPPERS,
ROASTED, PEELED, STEMMED, AND SEEDED
1 TEASPOON GROUND CUMIN
2 TABLESPOONS OLIVE OIL
JUICE OF ½ LEMON
¼ TO ½ TEASPOON SEA SALT
Tear each pepper lengthwise into its natural segments, then tear each segment lengthwise into nice-size strips. In a bowl, combine the peppers, cumin, olive oil, lemon juice, preserved lemon, and ¼ teaspoon of the salt and mix well. Taste and add more salt if needed. Cover and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes to allow the flavors to blend. Serve chilled.
Homemade Date Candy
WITH TANGERINES
In winter, one of my favorite ways to end a Moroccan meal is with a mint tisane, tangerines, dates, and toasted almonds. For each serving, I plan on 1½ tangerines, 2 dates, and 2 tablespoons toasted raw (skin-on) almonds. There is also a date candy available that is quite nice with tangerines. This is my version of it. The candied rose petals that accompany the
peach dessert would also be nice with the candy and tangerines. Orange blossom water is distilled, and can be found at Indian and/or Arabic markets, other specialty markets, big-city grocery stores, and online. Make sure your dates are moist and fresh. When chopping dates, coat your knife blade with oil so the pieces won’t stick.
| SHOWN HERE | SERVES 6 TO 8
⅔ TO ¾ CUP GROUND TOASTED NATURAL ALMONDS
1 POUND DATES, PITTED, AND DICED
6 TABLESPOONS PEANUT OR VEGETABLE OIL
2 TABLESPOONS HONEY
1 TO 2 TABLESPOONS ORANGE BLOSSOM WATER
½ TEASPOON GROUND CINNAMON
SCANT 1 CUP CONFECTIONERS’ SUGAR, PLUS MORE IF NEEDED
9 TANGERINES
In a large bowl, combine ⅔ cup of the almonds, the dates, oil, honey, orange blossom water to taste, and cinnamon and mix well, adding more ground almonds if the mixture is too wet to hold together. Shape the mixture into 2-teaspoon-size balls or ovals. Roll the balls or ovals in the confectioners’ sugar, coating lightly and evenly, and place on a rack. Let rest for about 1 hour to dry. If all of the confectioners’ sugar is absorbed, re-roll them in more sugar just before serving.
Arrange the candies on an attractive plate and accompany with a bowl of tangerines on ice and let guests peel their own.
DELIGHTFUL SUMMER PEACH DESSERT
It is important to have delicious, perfectly ripe peaches for this dessert. I often combine two different varieties. Suncrest, Summerset, and Flavorcrest are among the best choices. I like to serve the peaches in small, clear glass bowls to show them off.
The
candied rose petals will keep for several days in an airtight container at room temperature (unless they are at my house and at dog level—my dogs love them). They also go well with the
date candy, the Moroccan winter dessert. Rose water is distilled, and can be found at Indian and/or Arabic markets, other specialty markets, big-city grocery stores, and online.
A platter of fruits on ice is another nice way to end a Moroccan meal in summer. I prefer whole individual small fruits or cut larger fruits rather than a “fruit salad.” Melon, such as watermelon or cantaloupe, and figs are a must. Peaches and grapes round out the platter. A shaker of confectioners’ sugar, flavorful honey, dates, cinnamon sugar, raw (skin-on) almonds and walnuts (toasted, if you like), and lemon wedges are good accompaniments. | SERVES 6 TO 8
1 EGG WHITE
PETALS FROM 2 OR 3 PESTICIDE-FREE, JUST-OPENED VERY FRESH ROSEBUDS
SUPERFINE SUGAR, FOR DUSTING
4 TO 6 LARGE, RIPE PEACHES, PEELED
2 TABLESPOONS SUPERFINE SUGAR
3 TABLESPOONS ROSE WATER
SMALL FRESH MINT LEAVES, FOR GARNISH
GROUND CINNAMON, FOR GARNISH
A REALLY DELICIOUS VANILLA ICE CREAM, FOR SERVING (OPTIONAL)
To make the candied rose petals, in a small bowl, lightly beat the egg white with a few drops of water. One at a time, dip each rose petal into the egg white (or brush with a small, fine pastry brush), covering the petal with a thin, even coat. Lightly dust the petal with the superfine sugar, coating it evenly and gently shaking off the excess sugar. Place the petal on a rack and repeat with the remaining petals. Let sit for about 2 hours, until dry and crisp.
Cut the peaches into sixths or quarters, depending on their size, and place in a bowl. Sprinkle with the sugar, drizzle with the rose water, and toss gently to mix. Cover and chill for 2 hours before serving.
To serve, top the peaches with a few mint leaves, a little cinnamon, the candied rose petals, and a scoop of vanilla ice cream.
