I cannot remember a time when I didn’t love Indian food. A childhood friend moved to India for a year, and while she was gone, I started to read about the cuisine. In the 1970s, I began collecting my first Indian cookbooks and I have never stopped. My bookshelves carry decades of purchases as evidence of my interest. But there is a good reason why I have not stopped shopping. India is so large and harbors such an ethnically diverse population and a legion of equally diverse cooking styles that I never grow bored exploring its food.
I often turn to the rich menu of Indian vegetarian dishes to help me broaden the vegetarian offerings at our restaurants and for ideas on how to eat lighter and more nutritiously in general. (After all, we cannot live on butter, foie gras, and dark chocolate alone—though I love all three things.) In this chapter, I have included a mix of vegetarian and nonvegetarian dishes from Goa and Kerala, in India’s southwest, along with a potato and cauliflower dish from the north. They have all been part of the most enjoyed and talked about Supper Club menus. My theory is that people don’t typically cook Indian dishes at home, and I want these recipes to be the first steps toward changing that. I hope these easy and fun dishes will inspire you to try cooking some of the delights from this wonderful country.
WITH TOMATOES AND COCONUT MILK
This is the second fish dish I worked on for this chapter—actually the third. The other two included too many steps for the home cook, as my testers reported, so I came up with this one. Not only is it simpler, but my husband said it is the tastiest one of the three. It is a mixture of several recipes from Kerala and Calcutta and various Parsi dishes—in other words, not at all traditional! Use the larger amount of coconut milk if you want the curry to be saucier.
I felt the smaller amount of salt was fine for seasoning the fish, but others thought it needed more, so add it to your taste. It is important to cook the fish in a single layer. If you don’t have a sauté pan that is large enough, use two pans. Finally, look for sustainably harvested fresh halibut for the best flavor and to be kind to the environment. I like this dish with brown basmati rice.
| SHOWN HERE | SERVES 6
½ TO 1 TEASPOON SEA SALT
1½ TEASPOONS GROUND TURMERIC
ABOUT 2¼ POUNDS SKINLESS ALASKAN HALIBUT FILLET, CUT INTO 6 EQUAL PORTIONS
2 SERRANO CHILES, STEMMED, SEEDED IF DESIRED, AND COARSELY CHOPPED
1-INCH PIECE FRESH GINGER, PEELED AND SLICED
2 CLOVES GARLIC, COARSELY CHOPPED
½ TO ¾ CUP WATER, OR MORE IF NEEDED
3 TO 4 TABLESPOONS PEANUT OR VEGETABLE OIL, OR MORE IF NEEDED
1 MEDIUM YELLOW ONION, FINELY SLICED
4 FRESH TOMATOES, FINELY DICED, OR 2½ CUPS DICED CANNED TOMATOES
1½ TO 1¾ CUPS COCONUT MILK
3 TABLESPOONS MINCED FRESH CILANTRO, FOR GARNISH
LIME WEDGES, FOR GARNISH
In a small bowl, stir together the salt and turmeric. Liberally season both sides of each piece of fish with the turmeric mixture. Refrigerate until needed.
In a blender, combine the chiles, ginger, garlic, and ½ cup of the water. Process until a smooth, saucelike consistency forms, adding more water, a little at a time, if the mixture is too thick. (The curry is rich with coconut milk so you don’t want this to be too watery.) Reserve until needed.
Pour enough oil into a large sauté pan to coat the bottom liberally and heat over high heat. When the oil is hot, add the fish in a single layer and sauté, turning once, until seared and lightly caramelized on the outside. Transfer the seared fish to a rimmed baking sheet or plate as you make the sauce.
To make the sauce, add more oil to the pan, if needed to prevent scorching, and toss in the onion. Sauté, stirring, for about 5 minutes, until the onion begins to caramelize and becomes very tender (watch that they do not brown;
see more on caramelizing onions). Add the tomatoes and cook, stirring, for several minutes, until they become saucelike. Add the chile mixture and bring to a boil. Stir in the coconut milk, decrease the heat, and return the fish to the pan. Simmer the fillets until they flake when tested with a fork, are opaque at the center, and are tender to the touch. The timing will depend on how thick the fillets are; plan on 10 minutes per inch of thickness.
If the sauce has not reduced enough by the time the fish is done, transfer the fish to a warm platter and place in a warm oven. Cook down the sauce until it is the consistency you want.
To serve, place a piece of fish in the center of each warmed plate and top with a saucy bit of the tomato and onion mixture. Spoon additional sauce around each piece of fish. Sprinkle with the cilantro and serve the lime wedges on the side.
Rasam is a southern Indian vegetarian dish that is commonly accompanied with rice, yogurt, and tamarind or other acidic fruits, though it can also be blended and served as a soup. This one is more like a soup. It’s bright and full of flavor, so start off with a modest portion of no more than a ½ cup to wake up everybody’s palate.
Delicious seasonal tomatoes are best here, but you can instead use good-quality canned tomatoes, including the juice in which they are packed. For the liquid, I had lamb stock on hand and it tasted great, but even water will do.
Asafetida is the resin from a fennel-like plant native to Asia and is prized as an aid to digestion. It is available in lump and powder form and is known for its strong aroma. Some say it smells like truffles. I describe it as closer to overripe onions or dirty socks. Despite these descriptions, it lends a wonderful flavor.
| SHOWN HERE | SERVES 6
3 TABLESPOONS RED GRAM DAL OR MATAR DAL (YELLOW SPLIT PEAS), RINSED AND PICKED OVER FOR DEBRIS
1 CUP WATER
3 SERRANO CHILES
2 TABLESPOONS
GHEE OR VEGETABLE OIL
1 TEASPOON BROWN MUSTARD SEEDS
1 TEASPOON CUMIN SEEDS
1 DRIED ÁRBOL CHILE, STEMMED, SEEDED, AND SHREDDED LENGTHWISE, OR ½ TEASPOON RED PEPPER FLAKES
1- TO 1½-INCH PIECE FRESH GINGER, PEELED AND VERY FINELY MINCED
2½ TO 3 CUPS
PEELED TOMATOES, GRATED ON THE LARGE HOLES OF A BOX GRATER, WITH JUICE RESERVED
1 TEASPOON GROUND TURMERIC
½ TEASPOON ASAFETIDA POWDER (OPTIONAL, BUT GOOD)
½ TO 1 TEASPOON SEA SALT
1 TEASPOON FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER
2½ CUPS WATER OR STOCK (SUCH AS LAMB,
CHICKEN, OR VEGETABLE)
2 TABLESPOONS MINCED FRESH MINT, FOR GARNISH
2 TO 3 TABLESPOONS GREEK-STYLE PLAIN YOGURT, FOR GARNISH
To cook the dal, in a small saucepan, combine the dal and water and bring to a boil over high heat. Decrease the heat to a simmer, cover, and cook for about 1 hour, until tender. Remove from the heat and reserve until needed.
Slit 2 of the serrano chiles. Stem the remaining serrano chile, halve lengthwise, seed, and thinly slice on the diagonal. Reserve all 3 chiles until needed.
In a soup pot, heat the ghee over medium-high heat. Add the mustard seeds, cumin, and dried chile and cook, stirring, for 1 minute or so. Add the 3 serrano chiles and the ginger and cook, stirring, for another minute or so. Stir in the tomatoes and tomato juice, turmeric, asafetida, ½ teaspoon of the salt, and the pepper. Add the water, bring to a boil, decrease the heat to a simmer, and cook for 5 to 10 minutes, until fragrant. Add the cooked dal and its cooking liquid and cook for another 15 minutes until thickened to the consistency of a light soup. Taste and adjust with additional salt if needed.
To serve, ladle into warmed bowls and garnish with a sprinkle of fresh mint and a dollop of yogurt.
GHEE IS BASICALLY
CLARIFIED BUTTER. IT IS CLARIFIED IN THE SENSE THAT THE MILK SOLIDS HAVE BEEN SEPARATED FROM THE FAT AND THEN STRAINED OUT. TO MAKE GHEE (OR CLARIFIED BUTTER), MELT BUTTER OVER LOW HEAT FOR 10 TO 15 MINUTES, UNTIL GOLDEN BUT NOT BROWNED. (BROWNED BUTTER IS ALSO GOOD, BUT WE ARE NOT GOING FOR THAT HERE.) POUR THROUGH A FINE-MESH SIEVE OR A COFFEE FILTER INTO A HEATPROOF CONTAINER, LEAVING THE MILK SOLIDS BEHIND IN THE SIEVE OR FILTER. BECAUSE THE BUTTER IS CLARIFIED AND THUS PURE FAT, IT KEEPS WELL, SO I RECOMMEND CLARIFYING AT LEAST 4 OUNCES OF BUTTER AT A TIME. YOU CAN USE IT TO COOK ANYTHING YOU WOULD COOK IN OIL AND IT TAKES SEASONINGS EXTREMELY WELL.
SIMPLE LENTIL DAL
WITH CUMIN AND DRIED CHILES
The lentils may be cooked ahead, but the seasoning oil should be made just before serving. You want to add the oil to the lentils hot out of the pan, just after the flavors and aromas have been released from the spices. | SERVES 6
1 CUP RED LENTILS, RINSED AND PICKED OVER FOR DEBRIS
½ TEASPOON GROUND TURMERIC
1 TEASPOON SEA SALT
2 CUPS WATER
2 TABLESPOONS VEGETABLE OR CANOLA OIL
1 TEASPOON CUMIN SEEDS
½ TEASPOON MUSTARD SEEDS
2 DRIED HOT RED CHILES, STEMMED
½ TEASPOON CAYENNE PEPPER
In a saucepan, combine the lentils, turmeric, salt, and water in a pot and bring to a boil over high heat. Decrease the heat to a simmer and cook, skimming off any foam that rises to the surface, for 15 to 20 minutes, until the lentils are tender. Remove from the heat and reserve until needed, then reheat until hot just before serving.
To make the seasoning oil, in a small sauté pan, heat the oil over high heat. Add the cumin and mustard seeds and cook, stirring, until the seeds start to pop. Remove from the heat and sprinkle with a little water to halt the cooking (a couple teaspoons at the most). Add the chiles and cayenne and toss everything around in the pan a little to arouse the flavors in the chiles and cayenne. Immediately pour the hot seasoning oil over the lentils and serve.
Clockwise, from top left: Peanut Brittle, Halibut Curry, Eggplant Raita, Pan-Roasted Potato and Cauliflower, Tomato Rasam
When I tested this dish, I used 3 lamb shoulder chops, each weighing 10 to 11 ounces and about ½ inch thick. I cooked them on the bone and served them the same way—more rustic. If you prefer, you can buy boneless lamb shoulder and cut it into large cubes. You can also do lamb shanks this way. For a simple supper for three, serve the curry with rice and a green vegetable. | SERVES 6
1 TABLESPOON VEGETABLE OIL
½ TEASPOON BLACK MUSTARD SEEDS
½ TEASPOON FENUGREEK SEEDS
1 YELLOW ONION, MINCED
2 CLOVES GARLIC, MINCED
1-INCH PIECE FRESH GINGER, PEELED AND GRATED (SAVE ALL THE JUICE YOU CAN)
8 TO 10 ROMA TOMATOES,
PEELED AND GRATED ON THE LARGE HOLES OF A BOX GRATER, OR 1 (28-OUNCE) CAN SAN MARZANO TOMATOES, DRAINED (WITH JUICE RESERVED) AND GRATED
¼ CUP RICE VINEGAR
½ TEASPOON GROUND CORIANDER
½ TEASPOON GROUND CUMIN
½ TEASPOON GARAM MASALA
½ TEASPOON CAYENNE PEPPER
¼ TEASPOON FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER
¼ TEASPOON SEA SALT
1¾ TO 2 POUNDS LAMB SHOULDER, BONE IN OR BONELESS
SEA SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER
1 TABLESPOON VEGETABLE OIL
1 YELLOW ONION, MINCED
¾ CUP COCONUT MILK
1 TEASPOON CUMIN SEEDS
SEA SALT
½ CUP MINCED FRESH CILANTRO, FOR GARNISH
To make the marinade, in a saucepan, heat the vegetable oil over medium-high heat. When the oil is hot, toss in the mustard and fenugreek seeds and fry, stirring, for 1 to 2 minutes. Add the onion and garlic and cook, stirring often, for 5 to 8 minutes, until well caramelized and toasty. Stir in the ginger, tomatoes, vinegar, coriander, cumin, garam masala, cayenne pepper, black pepper, and salt. Bring to a boil, remove from the heat, and let cool completely.
If using boneless lamb, cut into large cubes. Season the lamb on both sides with salt and pepper. Place the meat in a shallow glass or ceramic dish or in a large resealable plastic bag and pour the marinade over the meat. Cover or seal and place in the refrigerator for at least 2 hours or up to 24 hours. Bring back to room temperature before cooking.
To cook the lamb, in a large saucepan, heat the vegetable oil over medium heat. When the oil is hot, add the onion and cook, stirring, for about 10 minutes, until the onion is golden. Add the lamb and its marinade, the coconut milk, the water (or the tomato juice if you used canned tomatoes), the cumin, and the salt. Turn up the heat until you reach a good boil and then decrease to a simmer. Cover and cook, skimming any foam that rises to the surface, for about 1 hour, until the meat is tender.
Transfer to a warmed serving dish, garnish with the cilantro, and serve.
This is a rich and flavorful way to use eggplant. It can be made well ahead of time, which is great if you are assembling the entire menu. If possible, put the eggplants on the grill over a charcoal and/or wood fire to get that great smoky taste, though the dish will still be good if the eggplants are cooked over a gas burner or under a broiler. Whatever way you decide to cook them, make sure the eggplants are cooked through. It might take a little longer than you think it will.
| SHOWN HERE | SERVES 6
1 TO 1½ POUNDS SMALL GLOBE EGGPLANTS (ABOUT 3) OR ASIAN EGGPLANTS
ABOUT 2 TABLESPOONS VEGETABLE OIL
1 SMALL TO MEDIUM RED ONION, SLICED
2 CLOVES GARLIC,
SMASHED AND FINELY CHOPPED
¼ TEASPOON CUMIN SEEDS,
TOASTED IN A DRY PAN UNTIL FRAGRANT AND THEN GROUND
¼ TEASPOON SEA SALT
½ TEASPOON FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER
PINCH OR SO OF CAYENNE PEPPER
¼ CUP CHOPPED FRESH MINT LEAVES
Line a fine-mesh sieve with cheesecloth and place over a bowl. Stir the yogurt well, spoon it into the cheesecloth-lined sieve, and let drain in the refrigerator for about 1 hour.
Meanwhile, prepare a medium-hot charcoal and/or wood fire in a grill. Place the eggplants directly over the fire and grill, turning as needed to cook evenly, until the eggplants are soft throughout but the skins are not too blackened. Some char is fine. In fact, it gives the eggplants a little more flavor. They are done when tender to the touch, especially the area near the stem that is denser. Remove from the grill.
When the eggplants are cool enough to handle, peel off and discard the skin and dice the flesh. Transfer the diced eggplant to a colander and let drain for 1 hour.
In a saucepan, heat the vegetable oil over medium-low heat. Add the onion, stir to coat with the oil, cover, and cook for 15 to 20 minutes, until the onion is soft and translucent and just beginning to brown around the edges. Stir in the garlic and cook for 1 minute longer. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the onion and garlic mixture to a plate and let cool.
In a bowl, combine the eggplant with the onion and garlic mixture and mix well. In a separate bowl, stir together the yogurt, cumin, salt, black pepper, cayenne pepper, and mint leaves, mixing well. Fold the yogurt mixture into the eggplant mixture just until evenly combined. Serve at room temperature or slightly chilled.
WITH CUCUMBER AND YOGURT RAITA
Despite the name, this is not at all ordinary. In fact, sambar is one of the all-time most delicious bean dishes and a must for vegetarians and vegans! The toasty spiciness of the sambar is balanced perfectly with the coolness of the raita. Served the two dishes with hot basmati rice and that’s all you need for a lovely light meal.
The
tamarind paste comes in jars and can be found in the ethnic-food section of many grocery stores (at least on the West Coast) and in Indian, Latin American, and Mexican markets. If you happen to have or find tamarind pods, you can use them in place of the paste. See
Working with Tamarind for instructions on how to prepare them.
You can use almost any seasonal vegetables you like for the 1 cup mixed vegetables added to the seasoned oil. In fall, winter squash, cauliflower, and/or potatoes would be good choices. In summer, green and yellow wax beans, cherry tomatoes, and eggplant would work well.
Making the sambar powder requires a bit of work. For a shortcut, substitute 1 tablespoon garam masala and 1 tablespoon curry paste or curry powder for all of the home-toasted spices. The recipe for the sambar powder makes quite a lot, about 2 cups. That’s fine with me because I use it as a substitute for curry powder. You can also package it with a copy of this recipe for a nice hostess gift. | SERVES 6
1 LARGE CUCUMBER, PEELED, HALVED, SEEDED, GRATED, AND SQUEEZED OF EXCESS LIQUID
½ YELLOW ONION, GRATED
JUICE OF ½ LEMON
1 TEASPOON CUMIN SEEDS,
TOASTED IN A DRY PAN UNTIL FRAGRANT AND THEN GROUND
½ TEASPOON SEA SALT
1 TEASPOON FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER
¼ CUP CHOPPED FRESH CILANTRO
¼ CUP CORIANDER SEEDS
¼ CUP DRIED RED CHILES (SUCH AS ÁRBOL OR THAI BIRD), STEMMED AND SEEDED IF DESIRED
1½ TEASPOONS BLACK PEPPERCORNS
1½ TEASPOONS CUMIN SEEDS
½ TEASPOON FENUGREEK SEEDS
½ TEASPOON BROWN MUSTARD SEEDS
½ TEASPOON POPPY SEEDS
1 TABLESPOON RED GRAM DAL OR MATAR DAL (YELLOW SPLIT PEAS)
2 TABLESPOONS FINELY GROUND DRIED COCONUT
1 SMALL CHUNK CINNAMON STICK
¼ TEASPOON GROUND TURMERIC
½ CUP RED GRAM DAL OR TOOR DAL, RINSED AND PICKED OVER FOR DEBRIS
2 CUPS COLD WATER
½ CUP TAMARIND PASTE
1 CUP HOT WATER
1½ TABLESPOONS VEGETABLE OIL
1 TEASPOON BROWN MUSTARD SEEDS
½ TEASPOON ASAFETIDA POWDER
½ TEASPOON FENUGREEK SEEDS
½ TEASPOON CUMIN SEEDS
1 DRIED RED CHILE, STEMMED, SEEDED IF DESIRED, AND BROKEN INTO PIECES
½ CUP CHOPPED YELLOW ONION
½ CUP CHOPPED RED BELL PEPPER
½ CUP CHOPPED SWEET POTATO
1 CUP DICED SEASONAL VEGETABLES OF CHOICE (SEE HEADNOTE)
2 SERRANO, THAI BIRD, OR CAYENNE CHILES, STEMMED AND SLIT
½ TEASPOON GROUND TURMERIC
1 TABLESPOON SAMBAR POWDER (ABOVE)
½ BUNCH CILANTRO, LEAVES AND TENDER STEMS ONLY, CHOPPED
To make the raita, line a fine-mesh sieve with cheesecloth and place over a bowl. Stir the yogurt well, spoon it into the cheesecloth-lined sieve, and let drain in the refrigerator for at least 30 minutes or up to 1 hour. In a bowl, combine the drained yogurt, cucumber, onion, lemon juice, cumin, salt, pepper, and cilantro and mix well. Cover and refrigerate until needed.
To make the sambar powder, heat a dry skillet over medium heat. Add the coriander seeds, chiles, peppercorns, cumin seeds, fenugreek seeds, mustard seeds, and poppy seeds and heat, stirring frequently, until all of the spices are aromatic and lightly toasted. This will take 2 to 3 minutes. Pour onto a plate and let cool. Separately toast the dal, then the coconut, and finally the cinnamon the same way, again transferring to a plate. Transfer all of the toasted ingredients to a spice grinder or well-cleaned coffee grinder and grind to a fine powder. Pour into a bowl and stir in the turmeric. You will need only 1 tablespoon powder for this recipe. Store the remainder in a tightly capped jar in a dark place. It will keep for 2 months.
In a saucepan, combine the dal and cold water and bring to a boil over high heat. Decrease the heat to a simmer, cover, and cook for about 1½ hours, until the dal is falling-apart tender. Reserve until needed.
In a small bowl, stir together the
tamarind paste and the hot water until well blended. Reserve until needed.
To make the seasoned oil, in a saucepan or sauté pan (I use a small paella pan with sloped sides), heat the vegetable oil over high heat. When the oil is hot, toss in the mustard seeds, asafetida powder, fenugreek seeds, cumin seeds, and dried chile and cook just until the seeds start popping. It will only take a few seconds.
Add the onion, bell pepper, and sweet potato to the seasoned oil and sauté, stirring frequently, for 2 to 3 minutes. Add the seasonal vegetables, reserved tamarind mixture, chiles, turmeric, and sambar powder and cook, stirring, until the vegetables are fork-tender. The timing will depend on the seasonal vegetables used. If the pan seems too dry, add a little water. Stir in the cooked dal and cook for 2 to 3 minutes more. Transfer to a bowl, sprinkle with the cilantro, and serve alongside the chilled raita.
IF YOU ARE USING TAMARIND PULP (USUALLY AVAILABLE IN CAKE FORM) INSTEAD OF TAMARIND PASTE, YOU WILL NEED HALF OF AN AVERAGE PACKAGE (4 TO 5 OUNCES). PLACE THE PULP AND SEEDS IN A BOWL, POUR HOT WATER OVER TO COVER, AND LET SOAK FOR 30 TO 40 MINUTES, UNTIL SOFT. POUR THE CONTENTS OF THE BOWL INTO A SIEVE, AND PRESS THE PULP THROUGH THE SIEVE WITH THE BASE OF A LADLE. MEASURE OUT ½ CUP AND USE IN PLACE OF THE TAMARIND PASTE.
PAN-ROASTED POTATO AND CAULIFLOWER
This is one of the first Indian dishes I learned to make. It’s made with easily available ingredients and it almost cooks itself. When I’m in a hurry, I don’t peel the potatoes and I use a great premade garam masala from Penzeys Spices that I often as not grab when I’m at home cooking. The
sambar powder from
Ordinary Sambar with Cucumber and Yogurt Raita is also delicious used here in place of the garam masala.
| SHOWN HERE | SERVES 6
1 TEASPOON GROUND TURMERIC
½ TEASPOON SEA SALT
¼ TEASPOON GROUND CUMIN
¼ TEASPOON GROUND CORIANDER
¼ TEASPOON GARAM MASALA
1 TABLESPOON VEGETABLE OIL
2 TABLESPOONS
GHEE, OR MORE IF NEEDED
6 TO 8 SMALL (ABOUT 10 OUNCES) YUKON GOLD POTATOES, PEELED IF DESIRED AND CUBED
½ YELLOW ONION, MINCED
2 SERRANO CHILES, STEMMED, SEEDED, AND MINCED
2 CLOVES GARLIC, MINCED
¾ HEAD (8 TO 10 OUNCES) CAULIFLOWER, CUT INTO SMALL FLORETS
1-INCH PIECE FRESH GINGER, PEELED AND JULIENNED
In a small bowl, stir together the turmeric, salt, cumin, coriander, and garam masala. Reserve until needed.
In a sauté pan, heat the vegetable oil and ghee over medium-high heat. When the fat is hot, add the potatoes, onion, chiles, and garlic and cook, stirring frequently, for 6 to 7 minutes, until the onion is golden brown. Add the cauliflower and ginger and cook, stirring, for about 3 minutes (at this point you might need to add a bit more ghee), until the cauliflower begins to brown. Toss in the reserved spice mixture and cook for another 3 minutes to blend the flavors. Finally, add water just to cover and cook for about 7 minutes more, until the vegetables are fork-tender. Transfer to a warmed serving dish and serve hot.
The first time I tried this refreshing drink was at Vik’s, a great chaat (snack) house in Berkeley. Nowadays, I like to make it for breakfast or for an afternoon pick-me-up. It is quite filling, so it is always a toss-up at midday: lassi or lunch. For this menu, you will have smaller portions. | SERVES 6
1½ CUPS LOOSELY PACKED VERY RIPE MANGO FLESH
JUICE OF ½ LEMON OR LIME
2 TEASPOONS MILD HONEY
ICE CUBES
In a blender, combine the mango, lemon juice, yogurt, and honey. Fill a 1-cup measure with ice cubes and then fill it with water. Pour the ice and water into the blender and process until very smooth. Pour into glasses and serve right away.
One Sunday when I was trying to tie up loose ends on this book, I made this
peanut brittle before lunch. It was originally intended to go with something called milk delights, but my husband, John, who loves peanut brittle from See’s Candies, ate almost all of the brittle for his lunch before I could make the milk delights. (John’s appetite is also why I am not sure about the exact yield for this recipe.) I eventually made the milk delights, but they didn’t turn out very well, so I am lucky that the brittle is great on its own. I like the salty-sweet, nutty combination. I have also made a version with a mixture of almonds and pistachios in place of the peanuts and sprinkled it with Maldon sea salt. It’s the best.
| SHOWN HERE | MAKES ABOUT 2 CUPS OR SO
2 CUPS RAW PEANUTS
1½ CUPS SUGAR
4 TABLESPOONS WATER
MALDON SEA SALT, FOR SPRINKLING
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Coat a rimmed baking sheet with
ghee or spray with nonstick cooking spray. (I often use a sprayed silicone baking mat to make sure the brittle doesn’t stick.)
Spread the peanuts on an ungreased rimmed baking sheet and toast in the oven for 7 to 8 minutes, until golden. Pour the nuts onto a cutting board. When they are cool enough to handle, chop them coarsely and reserve.
Place a small bowl of water and a pastry brush next to the stove. In a heavy saucepan, combine the sugar and water over medium heat and cook, swirling (not stirring) the pan gently, for 5 to 7 minutes, until the sugar is completely melted and the mixture is a caramel color. This should take about 10 minutes. If sugar crystals start to collect on the sides of the pan, wash them down with the brush dipped in a little water, being careful not to introduce more water into the caramel. When the sugar is ready, add the nuts to the pan, stir well, and pour the mixture out onto the prepared baking sheet. (Do not touch the hot mixture with your bare hands.) Spray a heat-resistant rubber spatula with nonstick cooking spray and press the nut mixture out into an even layer, spreading it as thinly as you can. While still hot, sprinkle with Maldon sea salt.
Let cool completely, then break into bite-size pieces. Store in a airtight container at room temperature for up to 3 days (not that it will last that long).
