I did not travel to Turkey until I was in my fifties, and when I got there, I could not figure out why I had waited so long. I loved being near the Bosporus, watching the boats and eating dinner in cafés on the banks and bridges of Istanbul. The flavors, colors, and aromas of the cooking and the natural light of the setting make this one of the best places in the world to eat.
Like so many cuisines in this part of the world, the Turkish table is an intriguing amalgam of different influences, with the Middle East, Central Asia, and the Balkan Peninsula the primary players. The ingredients are as heady as the influences, with most of them harvested from the great agricultural belts and bountiful waters that punctuate Turkey’s geography. I have chosen four simple yet iconic dishes to show off this culinary abundance, hoping that they will inspire you to investigate further on your own.
Lamb Chops
WITH BULGUR PILAF
You don’t need to make a fancy sauce to go with these simply prepared chops. They are wonderfully flavorful on their own, especially if they are grilled over a charcoal and/or wood fire. You can ask your butcher to french the chops (trim away the meat to expose the ends of the bones) or you can do it yourself.
Bulgur pilafs came to Turkey from Armenia. Before then, rice was the staple grain on the Turkish table. If you are faced with diners who suffer from gluten intolerance, you could substitute a mixture of chickpeas and lentils or rice in place of the bulgur and omit the pasta. If you prepare rice, you will need to increase the liquid to 2 cups and you will need to cover the pan once the rice and stock have been added. If you opt for chickpeas and lentils, you can cook the lentils in the liquid and add cooked chickpeas at the end just to warm. In both cases, you will need to omit the pasta, of course.
I enjoyed working on these recipes because they reminded me how different cultures use the same ingredients and cooking techniques to make completely different meals. And when making the pilaf I had a fond recollection of one of the first chefs I worked for, Gabino Soletino, browning his rice and noodles before cooking. | SERVES 6
12 TO 18 SINGLE-BONE LAMB RIB CHOPS, FRENCHED
½ TEASPOON SEA SALT
FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER
1 SHALLOT, VERY THINLY SLICED OR MINCED
JUICE OF 1 LEMON (ABOUT 2 TABLESPOONS)
⅔ CUP OLIVE OIL
½ TEASPOON GROUND SUMAC
LEAVES FROM 2-INCH ROSEMARY SPRIG, MINCED
LEAVES FROM 5 OR 6 OREGANO SPRIGS, MINCED
4 TABLESPOONS UNSALTED BUTTER
1 SMALL RED ONION, MINCED
3 FRESH CHILES (SUCH AS JALAPEÑO, SERRANO, OR POBLANO), STEMMED, SEEDED IF DESIRED, AND MINCED, OR 1 RED BELL PEPPER, SEEDED AND MINCED, PLUS 1 TEASPOON OR SO CAYENNE PEPPER
1 OUNCE CAPELLINI OR THIN VERMICELLI (ABOUT ¾-INCH-THICK BUNDLE), BROKEN INTO SHORT, UNEVEN PIECES
SCANT 2 CUPS BULGUR, RINSED IN COLD WATER AND WELL DRAINED
1¼ CUPS STOCK (SUCH AS CHICKEN, BEEF, OR VEGETABLE) OR WATER
2 TO 3 TABLESPOONS GOLDEN RAISINS
½ TEASPOON GROUND ALLSPICE
⅛ TEASPOON GROUND CLOVES
½ TO ¾ TEASPOON SEA SALT, DEPENDING ON SALTINESS OF STOCK
2 TO 3 TABLESPOONS CHIFFONADE-CUT FRESH MINT
Season the lamb chops on both sides with salt and pepper and reserve until needed.
To make the marinade, in a small bowl, stir together the shallot, garlic, lemon juice, olive oil, sumac, rosemary, and oregano, mixing well. Smear this mixture all over the lamb chops, pressing into the meat well. Let the marinade work its magic for at least 30 minutes.
To make the pilaf, in a large sauté pan, melt 2 tablespoons of the butter over medium-high heat. When the butter is hot, add the onion and sauté for several minutes, until golden. Add the chiles and cook, stirring, for several minutes more, until softened. Add the noodles and cook, stirring to coat with the butter, for 1 minute. Add the bulgur and cook, stirring, for 2 minutes. Stir in the stock, raisins, allspice, cloves, and ½ teaspoon of the salt. Bring to a boil, decrease the heat to a simmer, and cook for 15 minutes. Fluff with a fork and check for doneness. The grains should be tender and the liquid should be absorbed. If done, remove from the heat, cover with a tea towel, and let rest until serving. If the grains are too firm, continue to cook until tender.
While the bulgur is cooking, prepare a hot charcoal and/or wood fire in a grill. When ready to serve, place the lamb chops on the grill rack directly over the fire and grill, turning once, for 1 to 1½ minutes each side for rare.
Just before serving, to finish the bulgur, melt the remaining 2 tablespoons butter in a small saucepan over medium-high heat and cook until nut brown. Toss in the mint, swirl about, and then pour over the pilaf. Toss and taste for seasoning, adding the remaining ¼ teaspoon salt if needed.
To serve, arrange the lamb chops on a large platter and serve the bulgur on the side.
EGGPLANT, TOMATO, AND CHILE SALAD
You can grill the eggplants and chiles over the fierce fire while you wait for the coals to die down to the proper temperature for cooking the lamb chops. To make a dish more like a salad, leave the eggplants and chiles in big pieces. For a relish, cut the vegetables into small dice. For the menu, this dish is served at room temperature alongside the lamb chops, but it would also be good as a leftover straight from the refrigerator on grilled bread or toasted pita. In fact, I always prepare extra and use it on crostini, in grilled cheese sandwiches, in pasta, or as a side dish or relish for grilled fish or chicken. If you want to use it as a condiment, mash or mince it finely. | SERVES 6
1½ TO 2 POUNDS SMALL GLOBE EGGPLANTS
3 POBLANO (PASILLA) CHILES OR PIMENTO PEPPERS
JUICE OF 1 LEMON (ABOUT 2 TABLESPOONS)
3 CLOVES GARLIC, MINCED
2 TO 3 TEASPOONS PAPRIKA
1 TABLESPOON CUMIN SEEDS,
TOASTED IN A DRY PAN UNTIL FRAGRANT AND THEN GROUND
SEA SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER
4 TO 6 TABLESPOONS EXTRA VIRGIN OLIVE OIL
2 LARGE TOMATOES,
PEELED AND DICED
Prepare the grill for cooking the
lamb chops. Before the coals are ready, place the eggplants on the grill rack directly over the fire and grill, turning as needed to cook evenly, until the eggplants are soft throughout but the skins are not too blackened. Some char is fine. They should be very soft and offer no resistance when pressed. Place the chiles over the fire at the same time and grill, turning as needed, until they are nicely blackened on all sides. When the vegetables are done, transfer the eggplants to a platter and slip the chiles into a plastic bag, close the top, and leave to steam for 5 to 10 minutes.
When the eggplants are cool enough to handle, peel off and discard the skin and cut the flesh into large chunks or small dice, as desired. Gently lay the cut eggplant pieces in a fine-mesh sieve or a colander and let drain. When the chiles are cool enough to handle, peel off the skins and stem, seed, and cut into large chunks or small dice.
In a small bowl, whisk together the lemon juice, garlic, 2 teaspoons of the paprika, the cumin, and a pinch each of salt and pepper. Gradually whisk in 4 tablespoons of the olive oil in a slow, steady stream and continue to whisk until well emulsified. Taste and whisk in more oil, paprika, and salt and pepper if needed.
In a large bowl, combine the eggplant and chiles. Pour on the dressing and toss gently to coat evenly. Add the tomatoes and mix gently so as not to break up the vegetables. Serve at room temperature.
WITH SUMAC, FETA, AND TARRAGON
If you have tired of too many panzanella and caprese salads like I have, you will find this colorful, refreshing salad a nice change. For the tomatoes, try to put together a mix of colors and shapes. If you can’t find sumac, lemon zest is a respectable substitute. | SERVES 6
JUICE OF ½ LEMON (ABOUT 1 TABLESPOON)
2 TABLESPOONS POMEGRANATE MOLASSES
2 TEASPOONS GROUND SUMAC
LEAVES FROM 2 OR 3 THYME SPRIGS
½ CUP PLUS 1 TABLESPOON OLIVE OIL
SEA SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER
6 PERFECTLY RIPE HEIRLOOM OR OTHER DELICIOUS TOMATOES, CUT INTO SLICES OR WEDGES
1 CUP SMALL, COLORFUL CHERRY TOMATOES, HALVED IF LARGE
2 SHALLOTS OR 1 SMALL RED TORPEDO ONION, THINLY SLICED
FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER
½ CUP CRUMBLED MILD FETA OR SHAVED RICOTTA SALATA CHEESE, FOR GARNISH
LEAVES FROM 2 OR 3 TARRAGON SPRIGS, FOR GARNISH
To make the dressing, in a small bowl, whisk together the garlic, lemon juice, pomegranate molasses, sumac, and thyme. Gradually whisk in the olive oil in a slow, steady stream and continue to whisk until well emulsified. Season with salt and pepper and reserve until needed.
Arrange the tomato slices on a platter or on individual plates. Sprinkle with the cherry tomatoes and the shallots, separated into rings. Drizzle with the dressing, then season with pepper and garnish with the cheese and tarragon.
To have the full experience of a good Turkish coffee, you need a cezve, or Turkish coffee pot, which is a small pot with a long handle and a spout for pouring. Second best would be a small pan with a spout; anything without a spout makes the task harder and messy. For the menu, you will need to make the coffee in batches to accommodate everyone at the table. The key thing to remember when making Turkish coffee is that just as the foam starts to form, you must pour it off into the cups. Then you need to cook the remaining liquid just a bit more and immediately add it to the cups. Use freshly ground coffee for the best flavor. | SERVES 2
¾ CUP COLD FILTERED WATER
3 TABLESPOONS COARSELY GROUND MEDIUM-ROAST COFFEE
1½ TEASPOONS SUGAR
In a Turkish coffee pot or small spouted pan, combine the water, coffee, and sugar and bring slowly to a boil over low heat. A frothy foam will develop. Pour the foam off into 2 cups, dividing it evenly. Return the pot to the stove to heat the coffee for 1 minute longer, and then pour the liquid over the foam in the cups. Serve at once.
PISTACHIO AND YOGURT CAKE
WITH APRICOT YOGURT CREAM
I have always liked pistachios. When I was a child, our family would receive huge bags of pistachios at Christmastime from Uncle John, my father’s brother, and we would eat them like mad.
This recipe is an adaptation of a handful of recipes from Ayla Algar’s Classical Turkish Cooking. It is critical to start with very fresh unsalted nuts and to poach the apricots until they are tender. Apricots can sometimes be quite dry, so the poaching time can vary anywhere from 10 to 25 minutes, depending on the fruits. Take your time with the poaching; you want the apricots to be plump and tender.
The cake is brushed with some of the poaching syrup from the apricots while it is still warm from the oven, so it is important that the apricots are already poached when the cake is done. I have made the apricots first to ensure the syrup is ready. | SERVES 8 TO 10
1½ CUPS WATER
¼ CUP GRANULATED SUGAR
1 VANILLA BEAN, SPLIT LENGTHWISE
2 WIDE LEMON ZEST STRIPS
1 CUP (6 OUNCES) DRIED APRICOTS, SLICED
½ CUP CRÈME FRAÎCHE
2¾ CUPS GREEK-STYLE PLAIN YOGURT (SEE OPPOSITE)
1 CUP THINLY SLICED PISTACHIOS
½ EGG WHITE, WHISKED
2 TO 3 TABLESPOONS SUGAR, PREFERABLY SUPERFINE
CONFECTIONERS’ SUGAR, FOR DUSTING
1 CUP ALL-PURPOSE FLOUR
¾ TEASPOON BAKING SODA
¼ TEASPOON BAKING POWDER
¼ TEASPOON SALT
6 EGGS, SEPARATED
1 CUP GRANULATED SUGAR
¼ CUP EXTRA VIRGIN OLIVE OIL
½ TEASPOON CREAM OF TARTAR
To make the
apricot syrup, in a saucepan, combine the water, granulated sugar, vanilla bean, and lemon zest strips and bring to a boil over medium-high heat, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Add the apricots, decrease the heat to a simmer, and cook for 10 to 15 minutes (or longer if the apricots are very dry), until tender but not mushy.
Strain the syrup through a sieve, reserving the vanilla bean pod and apricots. Discard the zest strips. Using the tip of a paring knife, scrape any seeds remaining in the vanilla pods into the syrup and discard the pods. Bring the syrup to a boil over high heat and cook for about 10 minutes, until glistening, thick, and reduced to ⅓ to ½ cup.
Add half of the reduced syrup to the reserved apricots to moisten them. Reserve the remaining syrup for brushing on the cake. Place 2 cups of the Greek yogurt in a small bowl and fold in the crème fraîche. Fluff with a fork, cover, and refrigerate until needed.
To make the
candied pistachios, preheat the oven to 350°F. Line a rimmed baking sheet with a silicone baking mat or parchment paper.
In a bowl, combine the pistachios and the egg white and mix gently to coat the nuts lightly and evenly. When all of the nuts are evenly moistened, add the sugar and mix to coat the nuts evenly.
Spread the nuts in a single layer on the prepared baking sheet and bake for 8 to 10 minutes, until golden brown and crisp. Let cool and reserve until needed. Leave the oven set at 350°F.
To make the cake, butter a 9- or 10-inch springform pan or a 12-cup Bundt pan or spray with nonstick cooking spray.
Set aside a handful of the nuts. Spread the rest of the nuts on a rimmed baking sheet and place in the oven for a minute or two to “freshen” (do not allow them to brown). Remove the nuts from the oven and finely chop them by hand or pulse them in a food processor. You want them finely chopped, not a paste. Transfer the chopped nuts to a large bowl, add the flour, baking soda, baking powder, and salt, and mix well with a fork.
In a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat together the egg yolks and ½ cup of the granulated sugar on medium-high speed for about 3 minutes, until thick, light, and lemon colored. On medium speed, mix in the remaining ¾ cup
Greek yogurt and then the olive oil until thoroughly combined. (Or, beat the ingredients together by hand with a wooden spoon.) Add the wet mixture to the flour mixture and stir just until combined and moist. Do not overmix. Reserve until needed.
In the stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, or in a bowl with a handheld mixer, beat together the egg whites and cream of tartar on medium-high speed until thick and foamy. Slowly add the remaining ½ cup granulated sugar and continue to beat until silky, firm peaks form.
Scoop one-third of the beaten egg whites onto the top of the egg yolk–flour mixture and fold in with a rubber spatula just until combined. Add the remaining beaten whites in two batches, folding the last batch just until no white streaks remain. Pour the batter into the prepared pan.
Bake for 45 to 50 minutes, until a toothpick inserted into the center comes out dry. For a springform cake, transfer to a rack and immediately prick the surface liberally with a skewer. Brush the surface of the cake with the reserved syrup. Let the cake cool completely, then unclasp the pan sides and lift off if using a springform pan. For a Bundt cake, invert the cake onto a plate and prick the surface liberally with a skewer. Brush the surface with all of the reserved syrup.
To serve, cut the cake into wedges and place on individual plates. Put a generous dollop of yogurt cream and poached apricots alongside each wedge. Dust the cake with confectioners’ sugar and sprinkle the plate with candied pistachios.
GREEK YOGURT IS PRE-STRAINED AND DENSER THAN NORMAL YOGURT IN THIS COUNTRY. IF GREEK YOGURT IS NOT AVAILABLE, MAKE A SUBSTITUTE BY STRAINING SOME OF THE WHEY OUT OF PLAIN YOGURT, MADE FROM EITHER COW’S OR SHEEP’S MILK. PLACE THE YOGURT IN A CHEESECLOTH OR COFFEE FILTER AND ALLOW TO STRAIN FOR A COUPLE OF HOURS, UNTIL THE YOGURT HAS THICKENED.
