Cindy’s Supper Club: Meals from Around the World to Share with Family and Friends

6 HANDFULS MIXED GREENS (SUCH AS SAVOY CABBAGE, JAPANESE MUSTARD GREENS, BABY ASIAN GREENS, WATERCRESS, MINT, BABY SPINACH, AND/OR BUTTER LETTUCE), TORN INTO BITE-SIZE PIECES

½ SMALL HEAD CABBAGE (SUCH AS NAPA OR GREEN), CUT INTO ½- TO 1-INCH WEDGES

4 TO 6 GREEN ONIONS, WHITE AND LIGHT GREEN PARTS ONLY, THINLY SLICED ON THE DIAGONAL

6 TO 8 TABLESPOONS CILANTRO LEAVES

6 TO 8 TABLESPOONS THAI DRESSING

3 TABLESPOONS TOASTED RICE POWDER (ABOVE)

LIME WEDGES, FOR SERVING

To make the toasted rice powder, put the rice, kaffir leaf, and galangal in a cast-iron or other heavy pan and place over medium-low heat. Toast, stirring frequently, for 25 to 30 minutes, until the rice kernels are a rich golden brown. Make sure they get dark enough. If you don’t cook the rice long enough, the powder won’t be digestible. Remove from the heat and let cool. Remove and discard the kaffir leaf and galangal. Grind the toasted rice in a spice grinder or a well-cleaned coffee grinder to a semicoarse powder. It will have a lovely flavor. Measure out 3 tablespoons of the powder for topping the salad. Store the remainder in a tightly capped jar at room temperature.

To prepare the mushrooms, in a large sauté pan, heat the sesame oil over high heat. When the oil is hot, add the mushrooms and sauté for about 2 minutes, until they just begin to become tender. Depending on the size of your pan, you may need to do this in batches so as not to crowd the mushrooms. Add ½ cup of the water, the fish sauce, shallots, salt, sugar, and lime juice and stir to mix. If the pan seems too dry and threatens to scorch, add the remaining ¼ cup water. Cook over high heat until the liquid is reduced by two-thirds (the pan should be almost dry). Remove from the heat and keep warm.

To serve, in a large bowl, combine the mixed greens, cabbage, green onions, and cilantro and dress lightly with the dressing (really, don’t use too much dressing, as it is very flavorful). Top with the warm mushrooms and then sprinkle with the rice powder. Serve at once, with the lime wedges on the side.

Charcoal-Grilled Marinated Squid

CHARCOAL-GRILLED MARINATED SQUID

This particular dish was inspired by Kasma Loha-unchit’s Dancing Shrimp, a book of Thai seafood recipes. I like serving squid because it can be a sustainable protein if you shop carefully. Look for wild-caught squid that is harvested sustainably, by trawling or purse seining. Do not be put off by the having to clean the squid; it is not that difficult. You will get the best result if you grill the squid over a charcoal and/or wood fire, and it is critical that the fire be very hot. I have cooked the squid on a cast-iron grill pan, but even at high heat, they always steam a bit, and they turn out good but not great.

For a little extra heat, I like to serve Sriracha hot sauce along with the easy sweet-and-sour sauce included in the recipe. The latter has become an all-time favorite in my family, and Alex Farnum, the photographer for this book, declared it a hit on just about everything. | SERVES 6 TO 8

MARINADE

2 TABLESPOONS FISH SAUCE

2 TABLESPOONS SOY SAUCE

2 TABLESPOONS OYSTER SAUCE

2 TABLESPOONS FRESHLY SQUEEZED LIME JUICE (ABOUT 2 LIMES)

1½ TEASPOONS FRESHLY GROUND WHITE PEPPER

2 TABLESPOONS PEANUT OR CANOLA OIL

2 POUNDS SQUID, PREFERABLY FRESH

SWEET-AND-SOUR SAUCE

¼ CUP GARLIC CLOVES, SMASHED

½ CUP BIRD CHILES OR ¼ CUP EACH HABANERO AND JALAPEÑO CHILES, STEMMED, SEEDED IF DESIRED, AND CHOPPED

¼ CUP FRESH CORIANDER ROOTS OR STEMS, SMASHED OR MINCED, OR ¼ CUP MINCED FRESH CILANTRO LEAVES AND STEMS

PINCH OF SEA SALT

2 CUPS WATER

2 CUPS DISTILLED WHITE VINEGAR

1½ CUPS SUGAR

CILANTRO SPRIGS OR FRESH MINT LEAVES, FOR GARNISH

To make the marinade, in a glass or ceramic bowl, combine the fish sauce, soy sauce, oyster sauce, lime juice, pepper, and oil and mix well. Reserve until needed.

To clean each squid, pull the head and tentacles from the body and set aside. Slit the body open along one side, remove and discard the hard “quill,” and rinse out the innards. There is a purple-spotted membrane on the outside of the body that can be removed if you like, though I tend to leave it on. Cut away the eyes from the tentacles and discard, and then pop out the hard, round beak at the base of the tentacles and discard it. Rinse the body and tentacles well. Repeat with the remaining squid.

Skewer the squid bodies through the wide end. Allow them to wrinkle slightly so that you can get about 4 average-size squid onto each 6- to 8-inch metal skewer. (If you use bamboo skewers, be sure to soak them in water for 20 minutes prior to grilling.) Don’t crowd them, however, as you want a decent amount of surface area touching the grill. Place the skewers and the tentacles in a nonreactive container that allows you to arrange them in a single layer (I use a rimmed stainless-steel baking sheet, but a glass or ceramic baking dish would also work well.) Pour the marinade over the squid, making sure all of the squid surfaces are coated with the marinade. Cover and refrigerate for 1 hour.

To make the sauce, in a mortar, combine the garlic, chiles, coriander roots (if using minced cilantro, reserve to add later), and salt and smash with a pestle until a paste forms. Alternatively, chop the ingredients finely in a food processor. Transfer the paste to a nonreactive saucepan and add the water, vinegar, and sugar. Place over medium-high to high heat and bring to a boil, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Boil until reduced by two-thirds. You want a very concentrated consistency. Remove from the heat and add the minced cilantro, if using. Let cool and reserve until needed.

Prepare a hot charcoal and/or wood fire in a grill. When the fire is ready (make sure it is quite hot), place the skewered squid on the grill rack directly over the fire. Place the tentacles in a grilling basket and place alongside the squid. Squid cooks very quickly, so don’t take your eyes off the grill. Shake the tentacles around in the grilling basket a bit and pull them off as soon as you see nice caramelization around the edges and they have firmed up a little. This should not take but a minute or two. Cook the squid bodies on one side for a couple of minutes, drizzling with a little marinade, then turn and do the same on the other side. (I have also sprayed a vegetable grilling pan with nonstick cooking spray and cooked them on the pan. It kind of stir-fries them.)

To serve, remove the squid bodies from the skewers and arrange them attractively on a platter with the tentacles. Garnish with the cilantro sprigs and serve the sweet-and-sour sauce in a bowl on the side. Alternatively, drizzle the sauce on the squid and then garnish with the cilantro.

MASSAMAN CURRY CHICKEN

Massaman curries are Muslim in origin and are most often done with chicken, duck, or beef. They can be quite complicated, as in David Thompson’s Thai Food, a book that I highly recommend for the dedicated cook who wants to make authentic Thai curries. Or, they can be simpler, as in Charmaine Solomon’s Thai Cookbook.

My husband, John, tested the original version of this recipe and he got quite overwhelmed. We messed around and came up with this version, which is completely different but still very good. The curry paste is better if made a day ahead (in fact, it will keep refrigerated for several days). If you want a milder curry, add only half at first, then add more to taste. And if you don’t have the time to find the ingredients and make the paste, you can use 1 cup store-bought massaman curry paste and eliminate that step in the recipe.

I took a suggestion from Thompson’s Thai Food and marinated the chicken pieces in ketjap manis, a sweetened Indonesian soy sauce. It adds flavor and gives the chicken a beautiful golden hue. This is an important step, worth the extra effort. You can get by with marinating the chicken for only 2 hours, though overnight would be better. On the day you are going to put everything together, have all of your ingredients ready before you dive in.

If you want to serve this dish without the rest of the menu, you need only steamed jasmine or brown rice and a vegetable, such as grilled eggplant or sweet potato, to round it out. | SERVES 6 TO 8

1 (3½-POUND) WELL-RAISED CHICKEN, CUT INTO 6 TO 8 SERVING PIECES AND SKINNED IF DESIRED, OR 6 TO 8 WHOLE CHICKEN LEGS (THIGHS AND DRUMSTICKS), SKINNED IF DESIRED

½ CUP KETJAP MANIS

CURRY PASTE

5 DRIED ÁRBOL OR OTHER DRIED HOT CHILES, STEMMED AND SEEDED IF DESIRED

BOILING WATER, FOR SOAKING CHILES

2 TABLESPOONS PEANUT OR CANOLA OIL

⅓ CUP THINLY SLICED SHALLOT

⅓ CUP SLICED GARLIC

2 TABLESPOONS PEELED AND CHOPPED FRESH GALANGAL, OR ¾ TEASPOON DRIED GALANGAL

1 LEMONGRASS STALK, BOTTOM 6 INCHES ONLY, SMASHED AND THEN CHOPPED (3 TO 4 TABLESPOONS)

1 TABLESPOON CORIANDER SEEDS, TOASTED IN A DRY PAN UNTIL FRAGRANT AND THEN GROUND

1 TEASPOON CUMIN SEEDS, TOASTED IN A DRY PAN UNTIL FRAGRANT AND THEN GROUND

5 CLOVES, TOASTED IN A DRY PAN UNTIL FRAGRANT

2 MACE BLADES, TOASTED IN A DRY PAN UNTIL FRAGRANT AND THEN GROUND (½ TO ¾ TEASPOON;)

8 TO 10 GREEN CARDAMOM PODS, TOASTED IN A DRY PAN UNTIL FRAGRANT, PODS DISCARDED, AND SEEDS GROUND

½ NUTMEG, GRATED

2-INCH PIECE CINNAMON STICK, TOASTED IN A DRY PAN UNTIL FRAGRANT AND THEN GROUND

¼ CUP TAMARIND PASTE MIXED WITH ½ CUP WATER

3 TO 5 TABLESPOONS FISH SAUCE, DEPENDING UPON HOW SALTY YOU LIKE IT

CURRY CHICKEN

2 OR 3 ASIAN EGGPLANTS, CUT INTO 1-INCH CUBES

SEA SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER

5 TABLESPOONS PEANUT OR CANOLA OIL, OR MORE IF NEEDED

8 SMALL BOILING ONIONS, OR 16 PEARL ONIONS

1 (13½-OUNCE) CAN COCONUT MILK

2 CUPS CHICKEN STOCK

¼ CUP PALM SUGAR

4 BAY LEAVES

6 TO 8 SMALL POTATOES (SUCH AS YUKON GOLD OR FINGERLINGS), CUT INTO 1-INCH-THICK CIRCLES, OR 2 SWEET POTATOES, CUT INTO ½- OR 1-INCH CUBES

1 CUP FINELY DICED FRESH PINEAPPLE

½ TO ¾ CUP SALTED OR UNSALTED ROASTED PEANUTS, COARSELY CHOPPED, FOR GARNISH

1 CUP FRESH THAI BASIL OR OTHER BASIL LEAVES, FOR GARNISH

1 CUP FRESH MINT OR CILANTRO LEAVES, FOR GARNISH

RIPE MANGO CHUNKS, BANANAS CHUNKS IN RICE VINEGAR, AND/OR WATERMELON CHUNKS, FOR SERVING

LIME WEDGES, FOR SERVING

Put the chicken into a resealableplastic bag. Pour in the ketjap manis and work it around to coat all surfaces well. Seal and refrigerate for at least 2 hours or up to 24 hours.

To make the curry paste, put the chiles in a small heatproof bowl and add boiling water just to cover. Top with a heavy plate or bowl that fits just inside the rim of the bowl to keep the chiles submerged. Let soak for at least 15 minutes, until soft and pliable.

In a saucepan, heat the oil over medium-high heat. Add the shallot, garlic, galangal, and lemongrass and cook, stirring often and scraping up any caramelized bits that stick to the pan, for 3 to 5 minutes, until everything starts to brown around the edges. Decrease the heat if things start to brown unevenly. When nicely caramelized, add the coriander, cumin, cloves, mace, cardamom, nutmeg, and cinnamon. Continue to cook, again stirring and scraping, for a couple more minutes, until everything is very aromatic and nicely caramelized to a nut brown. Remove from the heat.

Drain the chiles and transfer them to a blender. Add the diluted tamarind paste, 3 tablespoons of the fish sauce, and the caramelized shallot mixture. Process, adding more fish sauce if necessary (for texture or saltiness), until a smooth paste forms. You should have about 1 cup. Reserve until needed. If you won’t be using the curry paste the same day you make it, cover and store in the refrigerator.

To make the curry chicken, in a colander, toss the eggplant with enough salt to coat all of the surfaces lightly and set aside to drain for 15 to 20 minutes. Remove the chicken from the resealable plastic bag and season with salt and pepper. In a heavy, deep saucepan, heat 3 tablespoons of the oil over medium-high heat. When the oil is hot, working in batches to avoid crowding the pan, add the chicken pieces and brown on all sides. Using a slotted spoon, transfer to a plate to drain.

When all of the chicken pieces have been browned, pour out the excess oil, if necessary, and return the pan to medium-high heat. Add the onions and cook until browned, then transfer to the plate with the meat. Finally, gently squeeze out the excess liquid from the salted eggplant, add it to the pan, and cook until browned, adding more oil if necessary. Transfer the eggplant to a plate to drain. After removing the browned eggplant, you are ready to bring the curry paste back into the picture.

To start bringing things together, heat the remaining 2 tablespoons oil in the same pan over high heat. Add the reserved curry paste and cook, stirring continually, for a minute or two to allow the flavors to bloom. When nicely fragrant, add the coconut milk, stock, palm sugar, and bay leaves and bring to a boil. Decrease the heat to a simmer and add the potatoes and the browned chicken and vegetables. Simmer for 35 to 40 minutes, until the chicken is cooked through.

Stir in the pineapple and remove from the heat. Transfer to a warmed serving dish. Sprinkle with the peanuts, basil, and mint and place plates of fresh fruit and lime wedges alongside.

TIPS AND TRICKS

INGREDIENTS TIPS

DON’T BE OVERWHELMED BY THE ASIAN SPICES CALLED FOR IN THIS RECIPE. LOOK FOR FRESH GALANGAL IN ASIAN MARKETS, OR PURCHASE IT DRIED. THE RECIPE CALLS FOR BOILING OR PEARL ONIONS, BUT IN SPRING, IT IS FUN TO SUBSTITUTE “BULBY” GREEN ONIONS, WHICH CAN BE FOUND AT FARMERS’ MARKETS. FOR THE PEANUTS, I PREFER THE OLD-FASHIONED OIL-ROASTED VARIETY RATHER THAN DRY-ROASTED. AND ON THE FRUIT FRONT, IF YOU CANNOT FIND FRESH PINEAPPLE, JUST LEAVE IT OUT. CANNED PINEAPPLE WON’T WORK HERE. INSTEAD, INCREASE THE AMOUNT OF CHILLED MANGO AND/OR WATERMELON GARNISH. AND FINALLY, FOR A VEGETARIAN VERSION OF THE DISH, USE VEGETABLE STOCK INSTEAD OF CHICKEN STOCK, USE BRAGG’S LIQUID AMINOS OR SOY SAUCE INSTEAD OF THE FISH SAUCE, AND ADD 16 OUNCES DRAINED AND PRESSED FIRM TOFU AT THE VERY END AS A NICE SUBSTITUTE FOR THE CHICKEN.

TIPS AND TRICKS

GALANGAL

FRESH GALANGAL, SOMETIMES KNOWN AS AROMATIC GINGER, IS A RHIZOME SIMILAR TO GINGER ROOT. IT IS QUITE DIFFERENT IN FLAVOR AND IS MUCH MORE FIBROUS THAN GINGER, BUT IF YOU CAN’T FIND GALANGAL YOU COULD SUBSTITUTE GINGER (JUST USE A LITTLE LESS GINGER THAN IS CALLED FOR IN GALANGAL). IT CAN BE TOUGH TO CUT THIS FIBROUS ROOT, SO BE SURE TO WORK WITH A SHARP KNIFE. LOOK FOR GALANGAL IN FANCY GROCERY STORES OR IN ASIAN MARKETS. IF YOU WANT TO STOCK UP, IT CAN BE CUT INTO 1- TO 2-INCH CHUNKS AND FROZEN FOR 1 TO 2 MONTHS.

Sweet Crispy Pork Belly

SWEET CRISPY PORK BELLY

WITH THAI CHILE JAM AND PICKLED GARLIC

This dish is delicious but very rich. Serve bite-size chunks on toothpicks for a large gathering. The pork tastes best if it is marinated for 1 to 2 days before it is cooked, so a little advance planning is required. It is not imperative to have skin (rind) on the pork belly, and it is easier to make the dish without it, but it adds a little extra toothsomeness.

I have a bamboo steamer with multiple tiers that easily accommodates 2 pounds of pork belly in single layers. If your steamer is not large enough or it does not have tiers, you will need to cut the meat into manageable-size pieces and steam the pieces one at a time. I usually steam the pork on a layer of cabbage leaves, which provides a handy carrier for safely getting the meat into the hot steamer and helps keep it moist as it cooks.

If you like to reuse stuff as much as possible, the oil used for frying the shallots can be strained and used for sautéing. The shallots will give the oil a nice onion flavor. | SERVES 6

2 POUNDS PORK BELLY WITH SKIN (RIND)

CABBAGE TO LAYER UNDER PORK (OPTIONAL)

2 LARGE OR 3 SMALL TO MEDIUM SHALLOTS

PEANUT OR VEGETABLE OIL, FOR FRYING SHALLOTS

SAUCE

1½ TABLESPOONS PEANUT OR VEGETABLE OIL

3 CORIANDER ROOTS, SCRAPED AND

SMASHED, OR 3 TABLESPOONS MINCED CILANTRO STEMS

4 CLOVES GARLIC, SMASHED

1 STAR ANISE POD, TOASTED IN A DRY PAN UNTIL FRAGRANT AND THEN GROUND

PINCH OF SEA SALT

1 TEASPOON WHITE PEPPERCORNS, COARSELY CRACKED

2 CUPS PALM SUGAR

½ CUP FISH SAUCE

1 TABLESPOON OYSTER SAUCE

CANOLA OR VEGETABLE OIL, FOR DEEP-FRYING THE PORK

FRESH CILANTRO LEAVES, FOR GARNISH

THAI CHILE JAM, FOR SERVING

PICKLED GARLIC, FOR SERVING

To make the marinade, in a small bowl, stir together the soy sauce, salt, and sugar, mixing well. Place the pork in a resealable plastic bag or a shallow dish just large enough to allow the meat to lie flat with a little extra space. Pour the marinade over the pork, being sure to coat all surfaces. If using a resealable plastic bag, press out the air and seal. If using a shallow dish, cover with a tight-fitting lid or plastic wrap. Place the pork in the refrigerator for 1 to 2 days, turning 2 or 3 times each day to ensure even marinating.

When you are ready to cook the pork, pour water into a steamer pot, place over medium-high heat, set the rack in place, and cover. When you see wisps of steam rising, place a single layer of pork on a layer of a few cabbage leaves and transfer the leaves carefully to the steamer. If using a bamboo steamer, pour water into a wok or a pot and place over medium-high heat. Lay several cabbage leaves in the bottom of each steamer basket layer, then add one pork piece per steamer basket. When the water is at a rolling boil, assemble the steamer basket layers and place over the pot. Steam for 30 to 40 minutes, or less if steaming smaller pieces, until tender and slightly shrunken.

Remove the pork from the steamer. When it is cool enough to handle, cut the pork into 1-inch cubes and reserve until needed.

While the pork is steaming, slice the shallots paper-thin, either lengthwise or crosswise. Pour the oil to a depth of 1 inch into a heavy saucepan and heat to 365°F on a deep-frying thermometer. Add the shallots to the hot oil, making sure they are not clumping as they go in (carefully break them apart if they start to stick together) and fry for about 1 minute, until golden brown. Using a wire skimmer or a slotted spoon, transfer to a paper towel to drain. Depending on the size of your pan, you may need to do this in batches to avoid overcrowding. If you do, always make sure the oil returns to 365°F before you add a new batch.

To make the sauce, in a sauté pan, heat the 1½ tablespoons oil over medium-high heat. When the oil is hot, add the coriander roots (if using minced cilantro stems, reserve to add later) and garlic and cook, stirring, for 1 minute. Stir in the star anise, salt, peppercorns, and cilantro stems, if using, and cook, stirring, for 1 to 2 minutes longer, until the paste is sizzling, aromatic, and just beginning to caramelize. Remove from the heat and reserve until needed. In a bowl, stir together the palm sugar, fish sauce, and oyster sauce, mixing until the sugar is completely dissolved. Reserve until needed.

To fry the pork, pour the oil to a depth of 2 to 3 inches into a large, heavy saucepan and heat to 365°F to 375°F on a deep-frying thermometer. Working in batches to avoid crowding the pan, carefully add the pork cubes to the hot oil and fry for about 2 to 3 minutes, just until caramelized and heated through. Using a wire skimmer or slotted spoon, transfer to a plate. Repeat with the remaining pork cubes, always making sure the oil returns to 365°F to 375°F before you add a new batch.

To finish, in a large saucepan, combine the reserved paste and the palm sugar mixture over medium-high heat. Cook, stirring to mix well, until hot and steamy. Add the fried pork and cook until the pork is well coated, heated through, and yummy. Transfer to a platter and sprinkle with the fried shallots and cilantro leaves. Pass bowls of the chile jam and pickled garlic at the table.

TIPS AND TRICKS

THOUGHTS ON DEEP-FRYING

I USE CANOLA, PEANUT, RICE BRAN, OR LIGHT OLIVE OIL, DEPENDING ON WHAT I’M FRYING. MOST OFTEN, I USE A 4-QUART SAUCEPAN WITH STRAIGHT SIDES. I VARY THE AMOUNT OF OIL I USE DEPENDING UPON WHETHER I WILL BE FRYING ON ONE SIDE AND THEN TURNING (LESS OIL) OR SUBMERGING ENTIRELY IN OIL (MORE OIL).

MAKE SURE YOUR OIL IS AT THE PROPER TEMPERATURE BEFORE FRYING IN IT, IDEALLY 365°F TO 375°F, AS OIL THAT ISN’T HOT ENOUGH WILL RESULT IN GREASY FOOD. HOWEVER, NEVER EXCEED AN OIL’S SMOKE POINT, WHICH IS THE POINT AT WHICH IT BEGINS TO BREAK DOWN; USE A CANDY OR DEEP-FRYING THERMOMETER TO GAUGE THE HEAT. IT’S IMPORTANT TO FRY IN SMALL ENOUGH BATCHES SO AS NOT TO OVERCROWD YOUR PAN, OTHERWISE FOODS WON’T CRISP EVENLY. ALWAYS WORK AWAY FROM YOURSELF WHEN TRANSFERRING FOODS TO HOT OIL. A “SPIDER” OR OTHER SKIMMING TOOL IS IDEAL TO RETRIEVE EVERYTHING FROM THE OIL. CLEAN YOUR OIL OF ANY LEFTOVER BITS AND GIVE IT TIME TO RETURN TO TEMPERATURE BETWEEN BATCHES.

HAVE READY A DRAINING PAN LINED WITH PARCHMENT WHEN FRYING STICKY THINGS AND WITH ABSORBENT TOWELS FOR ITEMS FROM WHICH YOU WANT TO HAVE ANY RESIDUAL OIL DRAINED. OFTEN IN JAPANESE MARKETS YOU CAN FIND “TEMPURA PAPER,” WHICH IS DESIGNED TO WICK AWAY EXCESS OIL AND KEEP YOUR FRIED DELIGHTS LESS OILY.

THAI CHILE JAM

This jam is great to have on hand because it is tasty on just about anything that needs a rich, sweet, hot flavor boost. Thai food is a given, but it is also good in meat loaf or in a barbecue sauce. You can purchase a chile-shallot conserve from your local Asian market. This recipe is for adventurous cooks who want to expand their homemade condiment collection.

Galangal is relatively hard to slice, so don’t worry about making the slices perfect. They are going in the blender anyway. | MAKES ABOUT 4 CUPS

5 TABLESPOONS FISH SAUCE

2 TABLESPOONS TAMARIND PASTE MIXED WITH 2 TABLESPOONS WATER

½ CUP PALM SUGAR

CANOLA OR PEANUT OIL, FOR DEEP-FRYING

2 CUPS THINLY SLICED SHALLOTS

1 CUP THINLY SLICED (LENGTHWISE) GARLIC CLOVES

½ CUP DRIED RED CHILES (SUCH AS BIRD OR ÁRBOL), STEMMED, SEEDED IF DESIRED, AND TORN INTO ½- TO ¾-INCH PIECES

5 THIN, PEELED GALANGAL SLICES

In a small bowl, stir together the fish sauce, thinned tamarind paste, and palm sugar until the sugar is dissolved. Reserve until needed.

Pour the oil to a depth of 1 inch into a large, heavy pan and heat to 365°F on a deep-frying thermometer. Working in batches so as not to crowd the pan, add the shallots to the hot oil, making sure they are not clumping as they go in (carefully break them apart if they start to stick together) and fry for 1 to 2 minutes, until golden brown. Using a wire skimmer or a slotted spoon, transfer to a plate to drain. Repeat with the remaining shallots, always making sure the oil returns to 365°F before you add a new batch. Next, fry the garlic, then the chiles, and finally the galangal in the same manner. Be careful not to crisp or brown anything. Be especially careful with the chiles, as they can burn easily. Reserve 1 to 2 tablespoons of the frying oil for the next step.

In a blender, combine the fried shallots, garlic, chiles, galangal, and 1 tablespoon of the frying oil and process until a thick paste forms, adding up to 1 more tablespoon oil if needed to achieve the correct consistency. Be careful not to add too much oil or the vegetables will be greasy.

In a saucepan, combine the shallot mixture with the fish sauce mixture and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Decrease the heat to a simmer and cook for about 2 minutes, until thick and jammy. Remove from the heat and let cool. Use immediately or store in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 6 months.