ROMAN LAMB ROMAN LAMB
For a home cook in a nondescript town outside of Rome, Paola di Mauro has gotten her fair share of coverage in the Times. Following some leads I’d gotten from chefs, I thought I was blazing a trail when I wrote about her in 2001, but I was humbled to discover that Nancy Harmon Jenkins had written a feature on her seven years earlier. Di Mauro never mentioned it—and why should she have? The good news is: we now relish more of her exceptional recipes. See here and here.
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2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
2¼ pounds young lamb—the leg or shoulder—bone-in, cut by the butcher, into 8 chunks, rinsed and patted dry
4 cloves garlic
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon instant flour, like Wondra, or cake flour
¾ cup dry white wine
1 tablespoon coarsely chopped rosemary
4 anchovy fillets, coarsely chopped
3 tablespoons red wine vinegar
1. Heat the oven to 350 degrees. Heat the olive oil in a casserole or flameproof roasting pan large enough to hold all the pieces of lamb over medium-high to high heat. When the oil is almost smoking, add the lamb chunks and brown, turning frequently, for 10 to 15 minutes. Coarsely chop 2 garlic cloves and add to the lamb as it browns.
2. When all the lamb is browned, add salt and abundant pepper. Sprinkle the flour over the lamb pieces and turn them to mix in the seasoning. Add the wine. As soon as it starts to bubble, cover the pot (or pan) and roast in the oven for 30 minutes.
3. While the lamb is roasting, coarsely chop the remaining 2 garlic cloves. Using a mortar and pestle, pound them with the chopped rosemary into a coarse paste. Add the anchovies and continue pounding to make a fairly smooth paste. A tablespoon at a time, mix in the wine vinegar to make a smooth emulsion.
4. When the lamb has roasted for 30 minutes, remove it from the oven and pour the vinegar emulsion over the lamb pieces. Turn them to coat well with sauce. Return to the oven, uncovered, and roast for 30 minutes, or until the lamb is cooked, with no trace of red in the meat. Remove from the oven and let rest for 5 minutes.
5. Transfer the lamb to a heated serving platter. Bring the pan juices to a boil and cook rapidly for about 45 seconds, or just long enough to reduce juices and thicken them slightly. Add salt and pepper to taste. Pour the juices over the lamb and serve.
SERVES 4
SERVING SUGGESTIONS
Crostini Romani (here) Potato, Shiitake, and Brie Gratin (here), Squashed Tomatoes (here), Baked Zucchini with Herbs and Tomatoes (here), Pine Nut Cookies (here), Revani Verrias (Semolina Cake; here), Ricotta Kisses (here)
MAY 11, 1994: “LESSONS FOR CHEFS IN THE OLD WAYS OF THE ITALIAN KITCHEN,” BY NANCY HARMON JENKINS. RECIPE ADAPTED FROM PAOLA DI MAURO OF MARINO, ITALY.
—1994
THAI BEEF SALAD
What I like most about this recipe is that it challenges our notion of salad: there’s hardly a leaf in sight. The dish is really just sliced beef dressed in a snappy marinade—but it radiates the freshness you expect in a salad.
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1 cup fresh lime juice (from about 8 large limes)
½ cup Asian fish sauce, preferably nam pla
1 tablespoon sugar
2 teaspoons minced Thai chile or jalapeño pepper
2 small tomatoes, cored, seeded, and diced
2 small cucumbers, peeled, halved lengthwise, seeded, and diced
Two ¾-pound flank steaks
1 cup mint leaves
1. Prepare a hot charcoal or gas fire. Combine the lime juice, fish sauce, sugar, and chile in a large bowl. Add the tomatoes and cucumbers and toss.
2. Grill the steaks, turning once, until medium-rare, about 3 to 5 minutes per side. Let rest for 5 minutes.
3. Slice the meat across the grain into thin slices. Add to the salad, add the mint leaves, and toss well. Serve at room temperature.
SERVES 8
SERVING SUGGESTIONS
Pork-and-Toasted-Rice-Powder Spring Rolls (here), Clear Steamed Chicken Soup with Ginger (here), Pad Thai–Style Rice Salad (here), Mango Ice Cream (here)
MAY 22, 1994: “EARLY-BIRD SPECIALS,” BY MOLLY O’NEILL.
—1994
GRILLED LEG OF LAMB WITH MUSTARD SEEDS
This is the creation of Morley Safer, a correspondent for 60 Minutes.
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Two 4-pound butterflied legs of lamb, trimmed of excess fat
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
¼ cup olive oil
5 tablespoons mustard seeds
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1 tablespoon finely chopped garlic
2 tablespoons chopped fresh rosemary or 1 tablespoon dried rosemary
4 sprigs fresh thyme or 1 teaspoon dried thyme
1 teaspoon fennel seeds
2 bay leaves, crumbled
¼ cup fresh lemon juice
2 cups dry red wine
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
¼ cup finely chopped flat-leaf parsley
1. Lay the lamb out flat and sprinkle with salt and pepper on both sides. Put the oil in a baking dish large enough to hold the lamb. Add the lamb and sprinkle on both sides with the mustard seeds, cumin, garlic, rosemary, thyme, fennel seeds, bay leaves, lemon juice, and red wine. Turn and rub lamb so it is evenly coated with the ingredients.
2. Marinate the lamb in a cool place for 1 or 2 hours, or in the refrigerator up to 6 hours. If the lamb has been refrigerated, let it return to room temperature before cooking.
3. Heat a charcoal or gas grill or heat the broiler.
4. Remove the lamb from the marinade, and reserve the marinade. If using a grill lay the lamb on the grill. (You may have to do one leg at a time, depending on the size of your grill or broiler.) Or put the lamb in the broiler pan 4 to 5 inches from the heat. Cook, uncovered on the grill, or under the broiler, for 7 to 10 minutes. Turn and cook for 7 to 10 minutes on the second side for medium-rare. For medium or well-done meat, cook longer.
5. Meanwhile, bring the reserved marinade to a boil in a roasting pan large enough to hold the lamb and boil, stirring, until the liquid is reduced by half. Remove from the heat and swirl in the butter and parsley.
6. Transfer the lamb to the marinade pan and keep warm; let rest 10 to 15 minutes.
7. Thinly slice the lamb against the grain and serve with the pan juices.
SERVES 10 TO 12
COOKING NOTE
You can halve this recipe and do just one leg of lamb.
SERVING SUGGESTIONS
Crostini with Eggplant and Pine Nut Puree (here), Tomatoes Stuffed with Crab (here), Haricots Verts with Balsamic Vinaigrette (here), Mashed Potatoes Anna (here), The Most Voluptuous Cauliflower (here), Bolzano Apple Cake (here), Chocolate Rum Mousse (here)
OCTOBER 12, 1994: “CORRECTION: LEG OF LAMB THE MORLEY SAFER WAY.” RECIPE ADAPTED FROM MORLEY SAFER, A CORRESPONDENT FOR 60 MINUTES.
—1994
ORANGE-BRAISED SHORT RIBS WITH FENNEL AND OREGANO
The title of the story in which this recipe appeared was “Coaxing Flavor from Lesser Cuts.” We’ve since learned that the flavor doesn’t need to be coaxed; cuts like short ribs and shin and neck and tail are where all of beef’s best flavor and succulence lies.
As in many recipes from Chris Schlesinger and John Willoughby, the formidable grilling duo who became popular in the 1990s, there was no such thing as too much flavor. While many cooks would now argue that short ribs should be left alone, I think Schlesinger and Willoughby were onto something. Well marbled short ribs shine when aggressively seasoned; the fat enriches and diffuses flavors like fennel, chiles, and mustard.
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4 pounds beef short ribs (about 4 inches long)
½ cup cracked fennel seeds
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
3 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 medium red onions, sliced into very thin rounds
¼ cup minced garlic
1 to 2 teaspoons crushed red pepper flakes
1 cup dry red wine
1 cup beef broth
1 cup orange juice
½ cup balsamic vinegar
½ cup ketchup
2 tablespoons whole-grain mustard
½ cup coarsely chopped oregano
1. Heat the oven to 350 degrees. Rub the ribs on all sides with the fennel seeds and salt and pepper. Heat the oil in a large Dutch oven or other heavy pot over medium-high heat until hot but not smoking. Add the ribs and brown well on all sides, 6 to 8 minutes per side. Remove the ribs and set aside.
2. Pour off all but about 2 tablespoons oil from the pot, and scoop out any remaining fennel seeds and discard. Add the onions and sauté, stirring occasionally, until wilted and shiny, 7 to 9 minutes. Add the garlic and red pepper flakes, and stirring frequently, for 2 minutes. Add the wine, broth, orange juice, and balsamic vinegar and bring just to a boil, stirring once or twice and scraping any browned bits from the bottom of the pot. Add the ribs, along with the ketchup, mustard, oregano, and salt and pepper to taste, and return to a boil. Skim any scum from the surface.
3. Cover the pot, place in the oven, and cook for 1 to 1½ hours, or until the meat is fork-tender (when you try to pick up the ribs with a fork, they should slip off the fork). Remove the ribs from the pot, skim any fat off the sauce, and cook the sauce over high heat until slightly thickened. Skim again.
4. Return the ribs to the sauce and serve.
SERVES 4
COOKING NOTE
Consider cooking the short ribs a day before serving: the flavors will improve and you’ll have a chance to lift off all the fat that will rise and harden on the surface of the sauce when chilled.
SERVING SUGGESTIONS
Wilted Chard with Pickled Red Onion (here), French Potato Salad (here), Sweet Potato Cecelia (here), Butterscotch Pudding (here)
JANUARY 7, 1998: “COAXING FLAVOR FROM LESSER CUTS,” BY JOHN WILLOUGHBY AND CHRIS SCHLESINGER.
—1998
TIBS
In this Ethiopian dish, marinated lamb cubes are seared in butter and seasoned with turmeric, garlic, and cardamom. The lamb is usually served with injera, the tangy, spongy, pancake-like bread of Ethiopia, and if you can find injera in an African market, you should. Otherwise, serve with another thin, tender flatbread.
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2 pounds boneless lamb loin, cut into ½-inch cubes
1 red onion, minced
1 jalapeño pepper, seeded and minced
1¼ cups dry red wine
¾ pound (3 sticks) unsalted butter (to be seasoned and clarified, 3 tablespoons used for this recipe)
1½ teaspoons turmeric
1 clove garlic, crushed
2 cardamom pods, crushed
2 tablespoons mild chili powder
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon chopped rosemary
Injera, pita, or tortillas, for serving
1. Combine the lamb, onion, and jalapeño in a medium bowl. Add ¾ cup red wine and mix well. Cover and refrigerate for 1 to 2 hours.
2. Meanwhile, combine the butter, turmeric, garlic, and cardamom in a small saucepan and bring to a boil. Using a skimmer or large spoon, remove any impurities that rise to the surface. Carefully pour only the clarified butter into a clean container; discard the rest.
3. Combine 1 tablespoon clarified butter with the chili powder in a small saucepan over low heat and stir for about 1 minute, to toast the powder; do not allow to burn. Add the remaining ½ cup wine, remove the chili sauce to a serving bowl, and reserve.
4. Using a slotted spoon, remove the meat from the marinade and drain on paper towels; reserve the marinade. Heat a large cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat until very hot. Add 2 tablespoons clarified butter (reserve the remaining butter for another use), then add the lamb and sauté until seared on all sides. Add the marinade and continue stirring until the lamb is cooked through, 2 to 3 minutes. Season with salt and pepper and the rosemary. Allow the liquid in the pan to reduce until slightly thickened.
5. Serve the lamb and pan juices in individual bowls, accompanied by bowls of the chili dipping sauce and injera, pita bread, or tortillas with which to scoop up the meat.
SERVES 4
SERVING SUGGESTIONS
Spicy Orange Salad Moroccan-Style (here), Hoppers (without the egg; here), Stuck-Pot Rice with Yogurt and Spices (here), Ismail Merchant’s Spinach Puree (here), Tapioca Pudding (here), Plum Fritters (here)
JANUARY 21, 1998: “THE CHEF,” BY MARCUS SAMUELSSON, THE EXECUTIVE CHEF AND CO-OWNER OF AQUAVIT IN NEW YORK CITY, WITH AMANDA HESSER.
—1998
SPOON LAMB
Possibly the best recipe title ever.
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½ pound dried navy beans, rinsed and picked over
3 ounces (about 3 cups) dried porcini mushrooms
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 boneless lamb shoulder roast (about 4½ pounds), well trimmed of fat and tied in 3 places with kitchen twine
2 medium onions, coarsely chopped
2 cloves garlic, smashed
2 tablespoons tomato paste
¼ cup all-purpose flour
2 cups dry white wine
2 carrots, peeled and cut into 2-inch-long sticks
2 stalks celery, cut into 2-inch-long sticks
3 medium zucchini, cut into 2-inch-long sticks
3 leeks, white and pale green parts only, chopped and washed well
1 large turnip, peeled and diced (or 4 small turnips, peeled and cut lengthwise in half)
1 bouquet garni—4 sprigs parsley, 5 sprigs thyme, 6 bay leaves, and 4 black peppercorns, tied in cheesecloth
1 tablespoon crushed black peppercorns
3 whole cloves
5 cups lamb or beef broth
Salt to taste
1. Place the beans in a bowl, add water to cover by 2 inches, and set aside to soak for at least 4 hours. Place the mushrooms in a bowl, cover with warm water, and set aside to soak for at least 1 hour.
2. Heat the oven to 300 degrees. Heat the oil in the largest casserole you own over medium-high heat. Add the lamb and brown it on all sides. Remove it from the casserole and remove the string. If there are any burned bits left in the pot, wipe them out with a thick piece of wet paper towel.
3. Add the onions and garlic to the casserole and cook over medium heat until soft and starting to brown. Blend the tomato paste and flour together, and add to the casserole. Cook, stirring, for a few minutes, then stir in the wine. Add the remaining ingredients. Drain the beans and add them to the pot. Lift (don’t drain, or any grit will end up in the mushrooms) the mushrooms from their soaking liquid and add them. Bring to a simmer.
4. Return the lamb to the casserole, cover, and place in the oven. Cook until the lamb is very tender, about 4 hours.
5. Serve directly from the casserole, or transfer to a serving dish, and serve with tablespoons—the lamb is so soft it can be pulled apart with a spoon. If desired, serve with mashed potatoes or couscous.
SERVES 8
COOKING NOTE
If using canned broth, use 4 cups broth and 1 cup water.
SERVING SUGGESTIONS
Soupe à l’Ail (Garlic Soup; here), Watercress Salad (here), Baked Mushrooms (here), Shallot Pudding (here), Roasted Cauliflower (here), Barley Risotto (here), Mashed Potatoes Anna (here), Tangerine Sherbet (here), Tourtière (here), Coffee Caramel Custard (here)
JANUARY 28, 1998: “GIVING DINNER A LONG, LAZY DAY IN THE OVEN,” BY FLORENCE FABRICANT. RECIPE ADAPTED FROM ANTOINE BOUTERIN.
—1998
COLORADITO (RED MOLE WITH PORK)
A red mole with pork, this coloradito comes from The Food and Life of Oaxaca by Zarela Martinez, the owner of the restaurant Zarela in Manhattan. The smooth red sauce, thickened with a brioche-like bread (Martinez suggests using challah), is sweet from the tomatoes and buttery from the almonds, and it has just a touch of heat, which seems to blossom with each bite. Martinez points out that in Oaxacan mole, the sauce, rather than the meat, is the focal point of the dish.
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One 3-pound bone-in pork butt roast, trimmed of most but not all fat
1 head garlic, halved horizontally, plus 6 garlic cloves, minced
1 teaspoon black peppercorns, bruised, plus 5 black peppercorns
3 bay leaves
2 teaspoons salt, or to taste
10 to 12 cups water
4 dried ancho chiles, stems and seeds removed
4 dried guajillo chiles, stems and seeds removed
1 thick slice day-old challah or brioche
One 2-inch piece canela or 2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
5 whole cloves or ⅛ teaspoon ground cloves
¼ cup lard or vegetable oil
1 small onion, coarsely chopped
3 medium ripe tomatoes, cored and coarsely chopped
⅓ small yellow plantain, peeled and chopped (about 1 cup)
12 sprigs thyme
6 sprigs oregano
3 tablespoons sesame seeds, toasted
¼ cup raisins
¾ cup blanched almonds, coarsely chopped
1½ ounces Mexican chocolate (available at www.amazon.com), coarsely grated
1. Place the pork butt, head of garlic, bruised black peppercorns, bay leaves, and 1 teaspoon salt in a 5- to 6-quart pot. Add enough cold water to cover well and bring to a boil over high heat, then immediately reduce the heat to low. Remove any foam that collected on top. Simmer, partly covered, until the meat is tender, about 2 to 2½ hours.
2. Lift out the pork, letting it drain well, and let cool to room temperature. Meanwhile, raise the heat to high and boil the broth until reduced to 7 cups. Strain the broth through a fine-mesh sieve, discarding the solids; let sit until the fat can be skimmed off (or refrigerate for several hours and then lift off the solidified fat). Reserve.
3. Remove and discard any visible fat from the pork butt. Pull the meat from the bones and carefully tear it into long shreds; refrigerate if not using at once.
4. Place the ancho and guajillo chiles in a bowl, pour over boiling water to cover, and let soak for 20 minutes. Drain and reserve.
5. Meanwhile, crush the bread to fine crumbs in a food processor. You should have about 1 cup. Set aside.
6. Using a spice/coffee grinder or a mortar and pestle, grind together the canela, cloves, and remaining 5 peppercorns. Set aside.
7. Heat half the lard in a medium skillet over medium heat until rippling. Add the ground spices and cook, stirring, just until fragrant, 1 to 2 minutes. Add the onion, minced garlic, tomatoes, plantain, thyme, oregano, sesame seeds, raisins, and almonds and cook, uncovered, stirring frequently, for 15 minutes. Remove from the heat.
8. Let the cooked mixture cool for about 10 minutes, then place half the mixture in a food processor with 1 cup of the reserved pork broth and half the drained chiles. Process to a smooth puree. Repeat with the remaining sauce mixture, another cup of pork broth, and the remaining chiles.
9. Heat the remaining lard in a large Dutch oven or deep skillet over medium-high heat until rippling. Add the pureed mixture, stirring well to prevent splattering. Stir in the remaining broth a little at a time. Cook, covered, stirring frequently, for 15 to 20 minutes, until the chiles lose the raw edge of their flavor. Stir in the bread crumbs and cook, stirring frequently, until the mixture is lightly thickened, about 10 minutes. Stir in the chocolate and cook, stirring constantly, until it is well dissolved. Add the remaining teaspoon of salt.
10. Stir in the shredded pork. Cook, partially covered, stirring occasionally, just until heated through, 7 to 10 minutes. Taste for seasoning.
SERVES 4 TO 6
La Paloma (here), Ceviche with Mint and Mango (here), Guacamole Tostadas (here), Yogurt with Plantain and Mango (here), the rice from Maida Heatter’s Cuban Black Beans and Rice (here), Lemon Lotus Ice Cream (here), Key Lime Pie (here), Salted Caramel Ice Cream (here)
AUGUST 5, 1998: “BY THE BOOK: PRESERVING AN ANCIENT CUISINE,” BY AMANDA HESSER. RECIPE ADAPTED FROM THE FOOD AND LIFE OF OAXACA, BY ZARELA MARTINEZ.
—1998
MONTE’S HAM
At some point in your life, if it hasn’t happened already, you’ll be asked to bake a ham. Here’s a simple recipe that will please the masses at a shower, brunch, or wake, and please yourself when you make a sandwich with the leftovers.
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One 15-pound smoked ham (on the bone)
1½ cups orange marmalade
1 cup Dijon mustard
1½ cups packed brown sugar
1 rounded tablespoon whole cloves
1. Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and heat the oven to 300 degrees. Cut off the ham’s tough outer skin and excess fat and discard. Put the ham in a large roasting pan. With a long sharp knife, score it, making crosshatch incisions all over the ham about ½ inch deep and 1 inch apart.
2. Roast the ham for 2 hours.
3. Meanwhile, stir together the orange marmalade, mustard, and brown sugar in a medium bowl.
4. Remove the ham from the oven, and increase the heat to 350 degrees. Stud the ham with the cloves, inserting one at the intersection of each crosshatch. Brush the entire surface of ham generously with glaze, reserving some of the glaze, and return to the oven. Cook for 1½ hours more, brushing with glaze at least 3 times. Transfer the ham to a cutting board or platter and allow to rest for about 30 minutes.
5. Carve the ham and serve warm or at room temperature.
SERVES 30 OR MORE
COOKING NOTES
You can use any size ham, but you’ll need to adjust the cooking time. A 9-pound ham took 2 hours and 40 minutes.
For Step 4, get out your asbestos hands—the ham is hot! You can put the cloves in before baking, but if you do, they may char by the time the ham is finished.
SERVING SUGGESTIONS
Moscow Mule (here), Smoked Mashed Potatoes (here), Stir-Fried Collards (here), Old South Buttermilk Biscuits (here), Bourbon Pecan Pie (here)
READERS
“Every Wednesday I anxiously await the Dining Out section. I hope that you include a recipe for ham with a delicious sauce. The recipe/article appeared about 7 to 8 years ago. It was written by a man who said a friend had told him to buy the cheapest piece of ham he could purchase and coat it with the sauce. Guests loved his ham and were licking up the last bits with their finger. I followed the recipe and had the same success, but now I can’t find the recipe in my pile of recipes I’ve cut out of the NY Times. Can you help me?”
Maria del Rio, e-mail
“We make three or four of these for our annual 4th of July party. People just cannot stay away from it. . . . We use bone-in half hams, which come as shank end or butt end, and average about 10 pounds. . . . After roasting for 2 hours, the oven is increased to 375 degrees instead of 350. This gives a more lacquered finish to the glaze, plus a slight carbonization of the corners of the scored squares of meat. People are shameless in ripping these morsels from the ham and vacuuming them into their mouths.”
Reynold Weidenaar, New York, NY, e-mail
SEPTEMBER 30, 1998: “BY THE BOOK: SAVEUR WITH A TRULY AMERICAN SAVOR,” BY SUZANNE HAMLIN. RECIPE ADAPTED FROM SAVEUR COOKS AUTHENTIC AMERICAN, RECIPE BY MONTE MATHEWS, AN ADVERTISING EXECUTIVE IN NEW YORK CITY.
—1998
BROILED LAMB LEG CHOPS ON EGGPLANT PLANKS WITH MINT-YOGURT SAUCE
In 1990, The Thrill of the Grill by two friends from New England, Chris Schlesinger and John Willoughby, opened up new opportunities for backyard cooks. Schlesinger, the chef and owner of East Coast Grill in Cambridge, Massachusetts, and Willoughby, then a writer for Cook’s Illustrated, flouted the burger-and-dogs conventions that had dominated (and dulled) our outdoor pastime. They put rabbit and beef heart on the grill. They made banana-green mango chutney to go with grilled pork. On one page you found West Indies chicken, and on the next, Chilean hot pebre (a spicy condiment). The dishes they concocted were roused with chiles, vinegars, and loads of cilantro. Grilling had graduated from searing meat over an open flame to composing dishes with layers of smoke and spice and marinade.
But their indoor recipes were also distinctive for the way they layered powerful flavors (see here for another example) that could challenge your sense of proportion. The ¼ cup of coriander and pepper seasoning on the lamb, for instance, appears to be an outrageous amount, but don’t be afraid of it: it’s the perfect quantity. And the sweetened yogurt with mint may seem like something that would be better for breakfast (and it would be great with fruit), but it asserts itself well here, a beacon of tartness between the garlicky eggplant and heavily spiced broiled lamb.
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1 cup plain whole-milk yogurt, preferably Greek-style
2 tablespoons honey
¼ cup roughly chopped mint
2 small eggplants
¼ cup olive oil
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon minced garlic
3 tablespoons cracked coriander seeds
Four 10-ounce lamb leg chops, ¾ to 1 inch thick (or substitute center-cut lamb leg steaks), trimmed of fat
1. Heat the broiler. Combine the yogurt, honey, and mint in a small bowl, mixing well. Set aside.
2. Trim the ends off the eggplants, then cut lengthwise into planks about ¾ inch thick. Brush the eggplant with the olive oil, sprinkle with salt and pepper to taste, and press the garlic onto one side. Place the planks garlic side down on a piece of aluminum foil. (If you have more than 8 eggplant slices, you can cook off the extra slices, brushed with more oil. No need to waste it.)
3. Combine the coriander and 1 tablespoon each salt and pepper and mix well. Press the mixture all over the lamb chops. Place the chops on the broiler pan and broil until they are well seared on one side, then turn and cook to the desired doneness, about 8 to 10 minutes total for medium-rare, depending on the thickness of the chops. To check for doneness, cut into one of the chops; when the center is slightly less done than you like it, remove the lamb from the heat. Place chops on a platter, cover with foil, and allow to rest while the eggplant cooks.
4. Lay the sheet of foil holding the eggplant on broiler pan and broil until well browned, very soft, and moist all the way through, about 4 minutes on the first side and 2 minutes on the second.
5. Place 2 eggplant planks on each plate, top with a lamb chop, and spoon a couple of tablespoons of yogurt sauce over the top.
SERVES 4
COOKING NOTES
Using a rich Greek yogurt like Fage Total makes a huge difference in the sauce. Do not get the low-fat variety.
I served the leftover yogurt sauce with roasted salmon and braised cabbage with apples.
The original recipe calls for 1 small eggplant—I changed this to medium because the lamb is pretty big and it’s nice to have enough eggplant to go with every bite or two.
I reworked the garlic and eggplant as well. Originally, the garlic was pressed into both sides of the eggplant slices. Done this way, the garlic burns under the broiler. If you press it into just one side of the eggplant and broil the other side first, the garlic on the bottom gets a chance to soak up the juices and chars less when turned. And the side of the eggplant that gets cooked first soaks up some of the garlic juices once the eggplant is turned.
Roasted Feta with Thyme Honey (here), Marina Anagnostou’s Spanakopetes (Spinach Triangles; here), Salade à la Grecque (here), Flourless Apricot Honey Soufflé (here), Hazelnut Baklava (here)
MARCH 31, 1999: “CURING LAMB’S INFERIORITY COMPLEX,” BY JOHN WILLOUGHBY AND CHRIS SCHLESINGER.
—1999
ARNAKI ARAKA (LAMB WITH PEAS)
In most braised dishes, the vegetables and herbs are there to serve the meat, flattering it with sweetness and fragrance. But in this Greek dish, the lamb, scallion, and peas come together in equal proportions to produce a hearty and bright spring dish.
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2 pounds boneless lamb shoulder, cut into 2-inch cubes
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
10 scallions, white parts and half of green parts, sliced into ½-inch pieces
6 canned tomatoes, roughly chopped, plus 1 cup of the juice
1 teaspoon kosher salt, or more to taste
1½ pounds frozen green peas (about 4 cups)
½ cup chopped dill
Freshly ground black pepper
1. Pat the lamb dry with paper towels. Put it in a deep skillet over medium heat and cook for 5 minutes to remove excess moisture. Add the butter and scallions, stir, and cook until the scallions start to become translucent, about 5 minutes.
2. Add the tomatoes, tomato juice, and enough water to bring the liquid two-thirds of the way up the meat. Add the salt, cover, reduce the heat, and simmer for 30 minutes.
3. Turn the meat and continue to cook until it is tender but not falling apart, 30 to 50 minutes.
4. Add the peas and dill to the skillet and cook, covered, until the peas are tender, about 6 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
SERVES 6
SERVING SUGGESTIONS
Hummus bi Tahini (here), Marina Anagnostou’s Spanakopetes (Spinach Triangles; here), Jean Yves Legarve’s Spaghetti with Lemon and Asparagus Sauce (here), Asparagus Mimosa (here), Beet Tzatziki (here), Cumin-Mustard Carrots (here), Honey Spice Cookies (here), Hazelnut Baklava (here), Rhubarb Orange (here)
APRIL 11, 1999: “GREEK FIRE,” BY MOLLY O’NEILL. RECIPE ADAPTED FROM VEA KESSISSOGLOU, A HOME COOK FROM QUEENS, NEW YORK.
—1999
NORTH CAROLINA–STYLE PULLED PORK
Along with grunge and McMansions, the 1990s showcased long-form outdoor cooking, the time consuming, low-temperature style of grilling—i.e., barbecuing—that produces tender, fatty meats so wildly different from the charred steaks and chops of decades past. Barbecue requires attention, patience, and a willingness to have your hair smell like smoke for a few days. Which doesn’t seem like much to ask if you want a pork shoulder to turn soft and buttery and its outer rim of fat to form a crust so hard it’s like a porcelain shell.
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1 bone-in pork shoulder roast (5 to 6 pounds)
¼ cup Basic Rub (recipe follows)
4 cups hickory chips, soaked in cold water for 1 hour and drained
For the Vinegar Sauce
1½ cups cider vinegar
½ cup water
2 tablespoons sugar, or to taste
1 tablespoon crushed red pepper flakes
2 teaspoons salt, or to taste
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Hamburger buns or Kaiser rolls
1. Heat a grill, building the fire on opposite sides of the grill if using charcoal, or on one side or opposite sides if using gas. If using charcoal, every hour for the first 4 hours, add fresh coals and toss ½ cup wood chips on each mound of coals. If using gas, place the wood chips in a smoker box and heat until you see smoke (depending on the model of your gas grill, use all 4 cups at once or 1 cup every hour for first 4 hours).
2. Season the pork with the rub. Place the pork fat side up on the grill over a drip pan, away from the fire. Barbecue until nicely browned and cooked through, 4 to 6 hours, or until the internal temperature registers 195 degrees on an instant-read thermometer so that the meat will shred properly.
3. Meanwhile, combine the ingredients for the vinegar sauce in a bowl and whisk to mix. Add additional salt or sugar to taste, if desired.
4. Transfer the cooked pork to a cutting board, cover with foil, and let it rest until cool enough to handle, about 15 minutes.
5. Pull the meat into pieces, and discard the skin, bones, or fat. With your fingertips or a fork, pull each piece of pork into shreds about 2 inches long and ¼ inch wide. (Or finely chop the meat with a cleaver.) Transfer to a metal or foil pan and stir in 1 cup vinegar sauce, or enough to keep the meat moist and flavorful. Cover with foil and rewarm on the grill before serving.
6. Serve on hamburger buns with coleslaw and the remaining sauce on the side.
SERVES 10 TO 12
BASIC RUB FOR BARBECUE
½ cup kosher salt
½ cup sugar
½ cup ground black pepper
½ cup paprika
Combine ingredients in a bowl, and whisk them all together to mix. Store in an airtight jar.
MAKES 2 CUPS
COOKING NOTES
My pork shoulder weighed 8 pounds and took 5 hours to cook.
This is cooked using indirect heat. If the pork begins charring, move it farther away from the coals (or gas) or take it off the grill until the coals cool a bit. Remember, slow-and-steady is the secret of great barbecue.
SERVING SUGGESTIONS
Mint Julep (here), Julia Harrison Adams’s Pimento Cheese Spread (here), Pickled Shrimp (here), Summer Squash Casserole (here), Gratin of Yams and Chipotle Cream (here), Stewed Corn (here), Docks Coleslaw (here), Boston Baked Beans (here), Jellied Strawberry Pie (here), Bourbon Pecan Pie (here), Buttermilk Pie (here), Cashew Butterscotch Bars (here)
MAY 26, 1999: “TIME AND SMOKE, THE SOUL OF BARBECUE,” BY STEVEN RAICHLEN.
—1999
GRILLED HANGER STEAK
I included this recipe for anyone looking for basic steak grilling instructions—the recipe comes from Lobel’s, a fourth-generation butcher shop on Madison Avenue. If you can grill a steak well, you hold the key to countless winning dinners.
———
Vegetable-oil cooking spray
1 hanger steak (about 2½ pounds), trimmed and center vein removed
Olive oil
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1. Prepare a charcoal or gas grill (set on high). Lightly spray the grill rack with cooking spray. The coals are hot enough for grilling when you can hold your palm 4 inches above them for only 3 seconds.
2. Brush the steak with olive oil and generously season both sides with salt and pepper. Gently press the salt and pepper into the meat.
3. Sear the meat for about 1 minute on each side, then grill for 12 to 15 minutes, depending on the thickness of the steak. Turn the steak frequently during grilling. If the thin end of steak cooks before the wider end is done, position the steak so that the thin end is on the edge of grill. Cook to desired doneness: a rare steak is done when an instant-read thermometer inserted in the center reads 130 degrees.
4. Transfer to a cutting board and let the steak rest for about 5 minutes before slicing.
SERVES 4
Roasted Squash Soup with Cumin (here), Herbed French Fries (here), Fresh Mushrooms Stewed with Madeira (here), Spinach Roman-Style (here), Poached Pears in Brandy and Red Wine (here), Chocolate Pudding (here), Coconut Pie (here)
AUGUST 18, 1999: “BY THE BOOK: GOOD ADVICE, RIGHT FROM THE BUTCHER,” BY AMANDA HESSER. RECIPE ADAPTED FROM PRIME TIME: THE LOBELS’ GUIDE TO GREAT GRILLED MEATS, BY EVAN, LEON, STANLEY, AND MARK LOBEL.
—1999
MARINATED FLANK STEAK WITH ASIAN SLAW
An excellent Asian-ish recipe. Although the cup of basil may seem excessive, the hungry dressing eats it up.
———
For the Flank Steak
¼ cup rice wine vinegar
¼ cup soy sauce
1 tablespoon minced fresh ginger
1 tablespoon Asian sesame oil
1 tablespoon brown sugar
½ teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes
One 2-pound flank steak
For the Slaw
3 tablespoons peanut oil
1 shallot, minced
2 small bird or other hot chiles, seeded and minced
1 tablespoon fresh lime juice
1 teaspoon Asian sesame oil
¾ teaspoon kosher salt
3 cups very thinly sliced red cabbage
2 carrots, peeled and cut into fine julienne
2 scallions, thinly sliced
1 cup thinly sliced basil leaves
1. To prepare the steak, whisk together the vinegar, soy sauce, ginger, sesame oil, sugar, and pepper flakes. Place the steak in a large plastic bag or in a shallow baking dish. Pour the marinade over the steak and refrigerate for at least 6 hours, and up to 36 hours, turning occasionally.
2. To make the slaw, whisk together the peanut oil, shallot, chiles, lime juice, sesame oil, and salt in a medium bowl. Add the cabbage, carrots, and scallions, tossing well. Refrigerate for at least 1 hour.
3. When ready to cook, prepare a charcoal or gas grill or heat the broiler. Grill or broil the steak, turning once, until it reaches the desired doneness, about 5 minutes per side for medium-rare. Transfer to a cutting board and allow to rest for 10 minutes.
4. Meanwhile, toss the slaw with the basil, and place a mound of slaw on each of 4 plates. Thinly slice the steak on the diagonal, and drape over the slaw.
SERVES 4
SERVING SUGGESTIONS
Kaffir Lime Lemonade (here), Pork Belly Tea Sandwiches (here), Pad Thai–Style Rice Salad (here), Lemon Lotus Ice Cream (here), Sticky Rice with Mango (here)
AUGUST 22, 1999: “FOOD: SLAW AND ORDER,” BY MOLLY O’NEILL.
—1999
MALAYSIAN-INSPIRED PORK STEW WITH TRADITIONAL GARNISHES
As Chris Schlesinger and John Willoughby explained in the story accompanying this recipe, the pork cuts called for in the stew—Boston butt or picnic shoulder—are not what they seem. Boston butt has nothing to do with the rear end of a pig but is actually the shoulder; “Boston” refers to a packing method for the shoulders that was developed in Boston and involved the use of barrels called butts. And picnic shoulder doesn’t come from the shoulder, but from the front leg; in the nineteenth century, this cut was cured and sold as picnic fare.
When we think of Southeast Asian food, we think of chiles, but here cayenne, a searing, one-dimension heat, offsets the warmer flavors of curry, ginger, soy, and basil.
———
2 tablespoons curry powder
2 tablespoons ground cumin
1 tablespoon paprika
1 tablespoon cayenne pepper, or to taste
2 pounds boneless Boston butt or picnic shoulder, cut into 1-inch cubes
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
5 tablespoons olive oil
2 red onions, thinly sliced
3 tablespoons minced fresh ginger
3 plum tomatoes, cored and cut into small dice
¼ cup soy sauce
1¼ cups unsweetened coconut milk
1 cup dry white wine
¼ cup roughly chopped basil
¼ cup roughly chopped mint
¼ cup roughly chopped cilantro
½ cup roughly chopped unsalted roasted peanuts
3 tablespoons fresh lime juice (from about 2 limes)
5 dashes Tabasco sauce, or to taste
1 teaspoon brown sugar
1. Combine the garlic, curry powder, cumin, paprika, and cayenne in a large bowl. Dry the pork cubes with paper towels, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and toss with the spice mix to coat.
2. Heat 3 tablespoons oil in a 5-inch-deep Dutch oven or other heavy pot over medium-high heat until hot but not smoking. Add the pork and brown well on all sides, about 10 minutes. Transfer to a platter, and discard the oil in the pot.
3. Add the remaining 2 tablespoons oil to the pot and heat over medium-high heat. Add the onions and sauté, until golden brown, 11 to 13 minutes. Add the ginger and tomatoes and sauté for 2 minutes more. Return the meat to the pot, add the soy sauce, coconut milk, and wine, and bring to a simmer. Skim any film off the surface, then cover, reduce the heat to low, and cook gently until the meat is very tender, 1 to 1½ hours.
4. Combine the basil, mint, cilantro, peanuts, lime, Tabasco, and brown sugar in a small bowl and mix well. Place a generous helping of stew in each bowl, top with a couple tablespoons of the garnish, and serve accompanied by rice.
SERVES 6
COOKING NOTE
When you’re browning the pork and onions, make sure you scrape up the pan drippings so they don’t burn.
SERVING SUGGESTIONS
Mango Lassi (here), Pork-and-Toasted-Rice-Powder Spring Rolls (here), Beef Satay with Peanut Sauce (here), Jasmine Tea Rice (here), Basmati Rice with Coconut Milk and Ginger (here), Green Beans with Coriander-Coconut Crust (here), Mango Ice Cream (here), Coconut Rice Pudding with Lime Syrup (here)
OCTOBER, 20, 1999: “ANATOMICALLY INCORRECT: DECODING THE PIG,” BY JOHN WILLOUGHBY AND CHRIS SCHLESINGER.
—1999
WHITE VEAL STEW WITH MUSHROOMS, CORN, AND SHERRY
Your entire neighborhood will smell of sherry from this brothy yet delicate stew. If anyone complains, invite them over for a taste.
———
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 tablespoons vegetable oil, or as needed
2 pounds veal stew meat, cut into 1-inch cubes
Salt and freshly cracked white or black pepper
Approximately ½ cup all-purpose flour
2 onions, cut into small dice
1 tablespoon minced garlic
1 pound white mushrooms, trimmed and quartered
1 cup dry sherry
1 cup corn kernels
2 cups veal or chicken broth
3 tablespoons thyme leaves
Rice or buttered noodles for serving
1. Place 1 tablespoon each butter and oil in a large Dutch oven or other heavy pot and heat over medium heat until the butter has just melted. Dry the veal cubes with paper towels. Sprinkle them generously with salt and pepper and dredge lightly in the flour, shaking off any excess. Add half the veal to the pot in a single layer and brown lightly on all sides, about 4 to 5 minutes, removing the pieces to a platter as they are done. Add the remaining tablespoon each of butter and oil to the pot, let the butter melt, and brown the remaining veal. Transfer to a platter.
2. There should be about 2 tablespoons of fat remaining in the pot; add more if needed, or pour off any excess. Wipe out any scorched bits in the pot. Add the onions, and sauté, stirring occasionally, until they are translucent, about 7 to 9 minutes. Add the garlic, and sauté for 1 minute. Add the mushrooms and sauté, stirring frequently, for 5 minutes. Add the sherry and cook for 2 more minutes, stirring to dissolve any brown, crusty bits adhering to the pot.
3. Return the veal to the pot, add the corn and broth, and season to taste with salt and pepper. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to low and skim any film off the surface. Cover and simmer gently until the veal is fork-tender, about 1 to 1½ hours.
4. Skim any film off the surface of the stew. Taste and adjust the seasonings. Stir in the thyme.
SERVES 4 TO 6
SERVING SUGGESTIONS
Crostini with Eggplant and Pine Nut Puree (here), Salad with French Dressing (here), Artichoke Salad with Anchovy and Capers (here), Bittersweet Chocolate Semifreddo (here), Lucas Schoormans’s Lemon Tart (here), Pear Upside-Down Cake (here)
NOVEMBER 10, 1999: “THE ARISTOCRAT OF MEATS DOES STEW DUTY,” BY JOHN WILLOUGHBY AND CHRIS SCHLESINGER.
—1999
OLIVER CLARK’S MEAT LOAF
This recipe seems to have been written by a mad chemist or a mouse, with tiny pinches of this and that all coming together to create a meat loaf like no other. A half teaspoon of onion powder, 2 tablespoons of whipped cream cheese—what will they do, you wonder, other than vex you as you measure them? But in the end, all the dribs and drabs coalesce into a tangy, juicy beef and pork meat loaf. The green pepper keeps it moist and adds a dash of bitterness, the mushrooms give it depth, and the bacon on top never hurts.
The meat loaf was created by Oliver Clark, who Jonathan Reynolds, a Times food columnist, described as an “actor, cook, magician, mechanical-bank collector, folk-art enthusiast, and one of the all-time ten-best brilliant dinner guests.” Most people see meat loaf as a dish to be thrown together at the last minute, but Clark treated it like delicate soufflé. He said to Reynolds, “Now listen to me, you must chop everything the same size as the ground beef so nothing stands out texturally.” And he has you half-cook the bacon ahead of time to render the fat and prevent the meat loaf from getting greasy. The only detail he forgot to mention was how good the leftovers are as a sandwich between slices of rye bread.
———
¼ cup olive oil
4 cloves garlic, finely chopped
2 medium onions, finely chopped
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1½ large Portobello mushroom caps, finely chopped
1 green bell pepper, cored, seeded, and finely chopped
2 pounds ground beef
1 pound ground pork or sausage meat
1 cup plain dry bread crumbs
½ teaspoon onion powder
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
½ teaspoon Cajun seasoning
⅓ cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
¼ cup ketchup
1 tablespoon mayonnaise
2 tablespoons whipped cream cheese
3 large eggs
½ pound bacon
1. Heat the oven to 350 degrees. Sauté the garlic and onions in 2 tablespoons of oil in a large skillet until the garlic is golden and the onions are translucent. Remove to a bowl. Add a dash of salt and pepper: it’s important to season well here.
2. Place all the remaining ingredients except the eggs and bacon in a bowl. Paw at it with 2 forks, combining thoroughly but not overmixing. Mix in the eggs and the onions and garlic. Scrape the mixture into a large baking dish and shape into a loaf about 4 inches wide and 3 inches high.
4. Meanwhile, midway through the baking time, sauté the bacon in a large skillet over medium heat until pale, limp, and partially rendered, about 5 minutes. Adorn the meat loaf with it and finish cooking.
SERVES 8
COOKING NOTE
You can use regular cream cheese in place of whipped.
SERVING SUGGESTIONS
Iceberg Lettuce with Smoked Bacon and Buttermilk Dressing (here), Mashed Potatoes Anna (here), Spinach and Artichoke Casserole (here), Sally Darr’s Golden Delicious Apple Tart (here), Reuben’s Apple Pancake (here), Blueberry Pie with a Lattice Top (here)
OCTOBER 22, 2000: “MEAT LOAF: THE MUSICAL,” BY JONATHAN REYNOLDS. RECIPE ADAPTED FROM OLIVER CLARK.
—2000
PORK AND SQUASH IN COCONUT MILK
With coconut milk, you get a flavorful broth and a thickening agent in one liquid. As Mark Bittman, whose recipe this is, pointed out, “Its full flavor ties together other flavors with little effort, which is one reason it’s among the most important ingredients that have become widely available in the last five years.” The milk’s creamy sweetness is one reason I could eat this dish every day.
———
1 tablespoon light oil, like corn or canola
2 pounds boneless pork, preferably shoulder or spareribs, cut into 1-inch chunks
1 large onion, sliced
1 pound butternut squash or sweet potatoes, peeled and cut into 2-inch chunks
1 can unsweetened coconut milk (about 1½ cups)
2 to 3 tablespoons Asian fish sauce, or preferably nam pla, or soy sauce, or salt to taste
Juice of 1 lime, or more to taste
Chopped cilantro for garnish (optional)
1. Place the oil in a large skillet or casserole and turn the heat to medium-high. When the oil is hot, add the pork. Cook, without stirring, until the pork is nicely browned on one side, about 5 minutes.
2. Add the onion and stir. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion softens, about 5 minutes. Watch to make sure it doesn’t burn. Add the squash, coconut milk, and 2 tablespoons fish or soy sauce (or a big pinch of salt) and stir. Bring to a boil. Turn the heat to low, cover, and simmer until the pork is tender but not dry, 30 to 40 minutes (if using pork loin, check after 20 minutes).
3. Uncover and taste the broth. If needed, add more fish or soy sauce or salt. If the mixture is too loose for your taste, raise the heat to high and reduce it until it thickens. Stir in the lime juice, garnish with the cilantro, if desired, and serve, with white rice if you like.
SERVES 4 TO 6
COOKING NOTES
I used pork loin and nam pla, Thai fish sauce. A fattier cut of pork is preferable because you want it to be chewy and moist. If you don’t have fish sauce, buy some at a good supermarket or an Asian grocery store. It’s a handy staple to have in your pantry.
I didn’t find it necessary to add the last tablespoon of fish sauce, and I didn’t reduce the brothy sauce, which I liked loose. If you reduce it, you should remove the pork and squash first so they don’t overcook.
SERVING SUGGESTIONS
Kaffir Lime Lemonade (here), Pork-and-Toasted-Rice-Powder Spring Rolls (here), Beef Satay with Peanut Sauce (here), String Beans with Ginger and Garlic (here), Jasmine Tea Rice (here), Glazed Mango with Sour Cream Sorbet and Black Pepper (here)
JANUARY 31, 2001: “THE MINIMALIST: STOCK IN A NUTSHELL,” BY MARK BITTMAN.
—2001
SEARED LOIN LAMB CHOPS WITH OLIVES AND SOFT POLENTA
A simple dish with each ingredient well deployed. The polenta is so good you might want to double it, and, as a green olive fan, I don’t see why you couldn’t use Lucques or Picholines in place of the black olives.
———
8 thick-cut loin lamb chops (about 2½ pounds total), each tied with butcher’s twine
1 cup coarsely chopped pitted black olives
¾ cup olive oil
Grated zest of 1 lemon
¼ teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
Soft Polenta (recipe follows)
1. Place the loin chops in a shallow dish. Combine the olives, oil, zest, and pepper flakes in a small bowl, and pour over the chops. Cover and refrigerate for at least 2 hours, and up to 24.
2. When ready to cook, remove the chops from the marinade and place on a plate. Transfer the marinade to a small saucepan and set aside. Prepare a charcoal or gas grill or heat the broiler.
3. Season the chops generously on both sides with salt and pepper. Grill or broil 4 inches from the heat, turning once, until the chops are very browned and have reached the desired doneness, 3 to 4 minutes per side for medium-rare.
4. Meanwhile, place the pan of marinade over medium heat and cook just until the oil bubbles.
5. Place a scoop of warm polenta on each of 4 plates and top with 2 chops. With a slotted spoon, remove the olives from the warmed marinade and scatter them over the chops (discard the marinade).
SERVES 4
SOFT POLENTA
4 cups water
1¼ teaspoons salt
1 cup yellow cornmeal
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
⅓ cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
1. Combine the water and salt in a saucepan, and bring to a boil. Using a wooden spoon, gradually stir in the cornmeal. Reduce the heat to medium-low and cook, stirring, until the cornmeal is thick and just beginning to pull away from the sides of the pan as you stir, 20 to 25 minutes.
2. Stir in the butter and Parmesan cheese, and serve.
SERVES 4
SERVING SUGGESTIONS
Bagna Cauda (here), Watercress Salad (here), Steamed Fennel with Red Pepper Oil (here), Asparagus alla Fontina (here), Grapefruit Granita (here), Wine-Stewed Prunes and Mascarpone (here), Queen of Puddings (here)
MARCH 18, 2001: “FOOD: ACCIDENTAL LAMB,” BY MOLLY O’NEILL.
—2001
BRINED AND ROASTED PORK BELLY
———
1¾ cups extra-fine sugar
2½ cups coarse sea salt, plus more for seasoning
12 juniper berries
12 whole cloves
12 black peppercorns
3 bay leaves
4 quarts plus 1 cup water
2½ pounds bone-in pork belly with skin
2 onions, chopped
Olive oil
1. Combine the sugar, salt, spices, and bay leaves in a large pot. Add the water and bring to a boil. Cool completely.
2. Transfer the brine to a large bowl and add the pork. Let stand, loosely covered, for 3 days in the refrigerator.
3. Heat the oven to 375 degrees. Place the onions in a roasting pan. Rinse the pork and score the skin with a sharp knife. Place skin side up on the onions, rub the skin with a bit of olive oil, and season lightly with sea salt. Roast, uncovered, 1½ to 2 hours; do not let the pork skin burn. The skin should be crisp; if not, transfer the pork to a hot broiler.
4. Cut the pork into thick slices, and serve with the onions.
SERVES 4
SERVING SUGGESTIONS
Fennel and Apple Salad with Juniper (here), Green Goddess Salad (here), salad with Cream Dressing (here), Sautéed Potatoes with Parsley (here), Figs in Whiskey (here), Poppy Seed Torte (here), Raspberry Bavarian Cream (here)
APRIL 25, 2001: “LUXURY CUT, SURPRISE SOURCE,” BY WILLIAM L. HAMILTON. RECIPE ADAPTED FROM THE WHOLE BEAST: NOSE TO TAIL EATING, BY FERGUS HENDERSON.
—2001
PORK BRAISED IN MILK AND CREAM
I remember watching Gabrielle Hamilton make this dish in her kitchen at Prune in New York: a burnished golden custard billowed around the pork as it braised, nestling softened garlic cloves, wilted sage leaves, and curls of lemon peel within. My stomach growled and my heart pounded. This is love, I thought.
Commercial pork loin has become so lean that it’s not worth your time cooking it. Only make this dish if you can get your hands on a pork loin from a small farm raising nice plump heritage pigs.
———
One 2-pound pork loin roast, seasoned to taste, larded with fatback (about 8 ounces), and tied
1 tablespoon chopped sage, plus 20 whole leaves
20 cloves garlic (from about 2 heads), lightly crushed, plus 1 tablespoon chopped garlic
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon olive oil
2 cups whole milk
2 cups half-and-half
2 cups heavy cream
3 lemons
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
Coarse salt
1. Place the pork in a container and rub all over with the chopped sage and chopped garlic. Cover and refrigerate overnight.
2. The next morning, bring the pork to room temperature. Scrape off and discard the sage and garlic. Generously season the pork with salt and pepper.
3. Heat the olive oil in a Dutch oven or other heavy casserole over medium-high heat. Add the pork loin and brown very well on all sides, about 20 minutes.
4. Meanwhile, combine the milk, half-and-half, and cream in a large saucepan and bring to a boil, then shut off the heat.
5. Using a vegetable peeler, remove the zest from the lemons in long strips. Set the zest aside, and reserve the fruit for another use.
6. When the pork is browned, transfer it to a plate and discard the fat in the pot. Reduce the heat to medium and add the butter to the pot. When it becomes foamy, add the garlic cloves and stir until lightly browned on the edges. Add the sage leaves and stir to coat. Put the pork back in the pot and pour in enough of the warm milk mixture to come halfway to two-thirds up the side of the pork. Bring to a simmer, add the lemon zest, and season to taste with salt. Partially cover and simmer until an instant-read thermometer registers 140 degrees, 15 to 30 minutes (cooking time will vary according to the shape of the roast and degree of browning). The liquid will form a skin and custard around the pork. Shut off the heat and allow to cool, then cover and refrigerate until shortly before serving.
7. When ready to serve, remove the pork from the milk mixture, place the pot over medium heat, and reduce the liquid to a soupy custard. Carve the pork into ⅛-inch-thick slices. When the liquid is still a little loose, return the sliced pork to the casserole, spoon the sauce on top, and allow the pork to heat through.
8. Serve, spooning some custard, lemon zest, and sage on top of the pork and sprinkling it with coarse salt.
SERVES 4
COOKING NOTE
It’s best to have your butcher lard and tie the pork loin, but you can do it at home if you have a larding needle. Cut long thin strips of fatback (thin enough to fit in the larding needle), then push the larding needle through the pork loin from end to end. Remove the needle, pressing the lever that keeps the fat in the meat. Repeat in 4 or 5 more spots.
SERVING SUGGESTIONS
Bagna Cauda (here), Fried Artichokes Azzurro (here), Fresh Morel, Asparagus, and Sweet Pea Risotto (here), Balducci’s Tiramisù (here), Ricotta Kisses (here), Breton Butter Cake (here)
MAY 9, 2001: “THE CHEF: A CREAMY CUSTARD HAS A MELLOWING EFFECT ON PORK,” BY GABRIELLE HAMILTON WITH AMANDA HESSER.
—2001
CRISPY CHICKPEAS WITH GROUND MEAT
A really fun dish to make. You think it’s not working because the meat sweats out its moisture and the mixture gets soupy. Keep cooking. The liquid boils off, and when the meat and chickpeas begin browning and snapping, you know you’re in for something good.
It’s crucial to use a heavy pan so the beef and chickpeas cook evenly.
———
½ to 1 pound ground beef or other ground meat
4 cups freshly cooked or canned chickpeas (about one 28-ounce can), drained, 1 cup liquid reserved
2 teaspoons ground cumin
1 dried ancho or chipotle chile, soaked in warm water, stemmed, seeded, and minced, or 1 teaspoon pure chile powder
2 teaspoons minced garlic
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
Minced cilantro for garnish (optional)
1. Turn the heat to high under a large deep skillet and add the meat a little at a time, breaking it into small pieces as you do. Stir and break up the meat a bit more, then add the chickpeas. Keep the heat high and continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until the chickpeas begin to brown and pop, 5 to 10 minutes. Don’t worry if mixture sticks a bit, but if it begins to scorch, lower the heat slightly.
2. Add the cumin, chile, and garlic and cook, stirring, for about a minute. Add the reserved chickpea liquid and stir, scraping the bottom of the pan to loosen any browned bits. Season with salt and pepper, turn the heat to medium-low, and cook until the mixture is no longer soupy but not dry.
3. Stir in the olive oil, then taste and adjust the seasoning. Garnish with cilantro if you like, and serve immediately, with rice or pita bread.
SERVES 4
COOKING NOTES
This recipe isn’t worth it unless you can get great ground beef (or pork). It’s a super-simple dish, and you need the meat to have ample fat and flavor.
Mark Bittman suggests using “the smaller amount of meat for flavor and texture, the larger for bulk and protein.” Is there any question? Use the smaller amount.
I ate this plain, without rice or pita. I didn’t feel the need to add another starch, and since the dish doesn’t have much cooking juice, there was no need for a mop.
Dried chipotles don’t take well to soaking. I ended up just mincing mine, without soaking, and since the seeds were included, I added just half the pepper, which worked out perfectly.
SERVING SUGGESTIONS
Jennifer’s Moroccan Tea (here), Blood Orange, Date, and Parmesan Salad with Almond Oil (here), Moroccan Rice Pudding (here)
AUGUST 8, 2001: “THE MINIMALIST: CHICKPEAS, DRESSED UP TO SHOW OFF,” BY MARK BITTMAN.
—2001
BRAISED STUFFED BREAST OF VEAL
Like a good porchetta, stuffed veal breast is fragrant and buttery. And, like vitello tonnato, it’s served cold. I like the meat sliced extremely thin and paired with salsa verde (pureed parsley, garlic, capers, olive oil, and lemon juice—see here for a recipe).
———
1 head garlic
About 5 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
Leaves from 2 large bunches Swiss chard, preferably white chard
Salt
¼ pound prosciutto
¼ cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
Freshly ground black pepper
One 10- to 12-pound breast of veal, boned
4 sprigs thyme
2 tablespoons finely chopped flat-leaf parsley
2 carrots, peeled and quartered
2 onions, quartered
1 leek, white and pale green parts, quartered and washed well
1 stalk celery, quartered
About 3 quarts veal or chicken broth or water, or a blend
Herbed vinaigrette, salsa verde, or aioli (optional)
1. Heat the oven to 450 degrees. Rub the garlic with a little olive oil, wrap in foil, and roast until soft, about 30 minutes. Remove the garlic and reduce the oven temperature to 325 degrees.
2. Heat 3 tablespoons olive oil in a large saucepan. Add the Swiss chard, sprinkle with a little salt, and cook for a few minutes, turning with tongs, until wilted. Place in a colander and press out as much liquid as possible.
3. Finely chop the Swiss chard, then finely chop the prosciutto. Combine the chard, prosciutto, and cheese. Season with salt and pepper.
4. Use a sharp knife to remove excess fat from the surface of the veal. Turn boned side up and lightly score the surface of the veal in a crisscross pattern. Season with salt and pepper. Squeeze the garlic out of the cloves and mash. Spread on the meat. Spread with an even layer of the chard mixture. Strew with the thyme and parsley. Tightly roll up the slab of veal the long way. Use butcher’s twine to tie the veal at 1½-inch intervals, tucking in any stuffing that oozes out.
5. Heat 2 tablespoons oil in large deep casserole over medium heat. Cut the roast in half or thirds if necessary to fit in the casserole, and lightly brown on all sides, one section at a time if you have more than one. If the pot blackens, wash it after browning the veal. Return the meat to the pot.
6. Scatter the carrots, onions, leek, and celery over the veal. Add enough liquid to nearly cover the meat. Bring to a simmer on top of the stove, then place in the oven and cook for 2½ to 3 hours, basting frequently, until the meat is fork-tender. Remove from the oven and allow to cool to room temperature in the liquid.
7. Remove the veal from the cooking liquid, reserving the liquid. Place the veal on a plate and wrap in foil; refrigerate overnight. Reduce the cooking liquid by half and skim off fat. Strain and freeze for another use.
8. To serve, snip and remove the twine from the veal. Slice the veal and arrange on a platter, with vinaigrette, salsa verde, or aioli alongside, if desired.
SERVES 10 TO 12
SERVING SUGGESTIONS
Claret Cup (here), Caramelized Onion and Quark Dip (here), Leeks Vinaigrette (here), Herb Vinaigrette (here), Aioli (here), Salsa Verde (here), Light Potato Salad (here), Purple Plum Torte (here), Summer Pudding (here), Fresh Raspberry (or Blackberry or Blueberry) Flummery (here)
AUGUST 22, 2001: “THE CHEF: TOM COLICCHIO,” BY TOM COLICCHIO, THE CHEF AND OWNER OF CRAFT IN MANHATTAN, WITH FLORENCE FABRICAN.
—2001
VITELLO TONNATO
I love this dish for the mere fact that Italians take veal, one of the finest, most expensive meats, and disguise it with a sauce made with a can of tuna. Don’t let that deter you: it’s as special as blanquette de veau and as satisfying as a tuna sandwich.
A large trussed piece of veal, usually top round, is braised or poached, then cooled, sliced, and layered like a cake, its icing a lemony mayonnaise made with canned tuna, capers, and anchovies. It flunks in the visual appeal department, yet is one of the most delectable dishes I know.
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1 stalk celery, roughly chopped
1 medium onion, cut into quarters
1 carrot, peeled and roughly chopped
1 leek, white part only, chopped and washed well
4 sprigs marjoram
4 sprigs thyme
5 cloves garlic
One 2- to 2½-pound top round veal roast, tied (it should be no thicker than 3 inches)
For the Sauce
2 large egg yolks, at room temperature
¼ teaspoon sea salt, or to taste
2¼ cups extra virgin olive oil
5 tablespoons freshly lemon juice (from about 2 lemons)
One 7-ounce can tuna packed in olive oil
5 anchovy fillets
3 tablespoons capers, drained
Thin slices of lemon, thinly sliced pitted black olives, capers, flat-leaf parsley leaves, and/or anchovy fillets for garnish
1. Put the wine, celery, onion, carrot, leek, marjoram, thyme, and garlic in a pot just large enough to hold the veal. Add 3 inches of water and bring to a boil. Add the veal and bring back to a boil, then immediately turn off the heat. Cover the pot and let the veal cool in its liquid, 2 to 3 hours.
2. While the veal cools, make the sauce: Whisk together the egg yolks and salt in a large bowl until pale yellow and the consistency of cream. Beginning a drop at a time, add 1¼ cups of the oil, whisking constantly. As the mixture thickens, you can add the oil more quickly. When it gets quite thick, whisk in 1 tablespoon lemon juice. Continue adding the oil until all of it has been absorbed and the mayonnaise is quite thick and shiny. Whisk in another tablespoon of lemon juice.
3. Drain the tuna and put it in a food processor, along with the anchovies, remaining cup of olive oil, remaining 3 tablespoons lemon juice, and the capers. Process until you have a creamy, uniformly blended sauce. Scrape the sauce into the bowl with the mayonnaise and fold to combine. Taste: it should be quite tangy and highly seasoned. Refrigerate until needed.
4. When the veal is completely cool, drain and slice 1⁄16 to ⅛ inch thick.
5. To assemble the dish, reserve ¾ cup sauce to serve alongside the veal. Smear the bottom of a large serving platter with some of the remaining sauce. Place a layer of veal slices on top, meeting edge to edge, without overlapping. Cover with sauce, then make another layer of meat and sauce. Repeat until all the meat is used, leaving yourself enough sauce to blanket the top layer. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 24 hours and up to 36 hours.
6. Bring the veal to room temperature before serving. Garnish with some or all of the suggested ingredients, and serve with the reserved sauce on the side.
SERVES 6 TO 8
SERVING SUGGESTIONS
Fried Olives (here), Crostini with Eggplant and Pine Nut Puree (here), Garden Minestrone (here), No-Knead Bread (here), Tomatoes Vinaigrette (here), Raspberry Granita (here), Plum Fritters (here)
AUGUST 22, 2001: “FROM ITALY, A COOL SUMMER SECRET,” BY AMANDA HESSER. VEAL PREPARATION ADAPTED FROM IL BUCO, SAUCE ADAPTED FROM THE ESSENTIALS OF CLASSIC ITALIAN COOKING, BY MARCELLA HAZAN.
—2001
DIJON AND COGNAC BEEF STEW
“Long before there were antidepressants, there was stew,” Regina Schrambling, a food writer and editor at the Times, wrote. Just a week after September 11, when so many people were turning to the stove as a way of dealing with the tragedy, Schrambling published a handful of recipes she’d been cooking in the aftermath, including this beef stew. “The food is not really the thing,” she wrote. “It’s the making of it that gets you through a bad time.”
This stew is so good it could get you through anything. The mustard and Cognac form a silken cloak around each piece of beef, and the two mustards—Dijon and Pommery—are so pungent they make you tremble. Serve over buttered noodles.
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¼ pound salt pork or bacon, diced
1 large onion, finely diced
3 shallots, chopped
4 tablespoons unsalted butter, or as needed
2 pounds boneless beef chuck, cut into 1-inch cubes
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
½ cup Cognac or other brandy
2 cups beef broth
½ cup Dijon mustard
¼ cup Pommery or whole-grain mustard
4 large carrots, peeled, halved lengthwise, and cut into half-moons
½ pound white mushrooms, stemmed and quartered
¼ cup dry red wine
1. Place the salt pork in a Dutch oven or other heavy pot over medium-low heat and cook until the fat is rendered. Remove the solid pieces with a slotted spoon and discard. Raise the heat, add the onion and shallots, and cook until softened but not brown, 10 to 15 minutes. Use a slotted spoon to transfer to a large bowl.
2. If necessary, add 2 tablespoons butter to the pot to augment the fat and increase the heat to medium-high. Dust the beef cubes with the flour and season with salt and pepper. Shake off any excess flour and place half the cubes in the pot. Cook until well browned, almost crusty, on all sides, then transfer to the bowl with the onions. Repeat with the remaining beef.
3. Add the Cognac to pot, and cook, stirring, until the bottom is deglazed and the crust comes loose. Add the broth, Dijon mustard, and 1 tablespoon Pommery mustard and whisk to blend, then return the meat and onion mixture to the pot. Lower the heat, partially cover the pot, and simmer gently until the meat is very tender, about 1½ hours.
4. Add the carrots and continue simmering for 30 minutes, or until tender.
5. Meanwhile, melt 2 tablespoons butter in a medium skillet over medium-high heat, and sauté the mushrooms until browned and tender.
6. Stir the mushrooms into the stew, along with the remaining 3 tablespoons Pommery mustard and the red wine. Simmer for 5 minutes, then taste and adjust the seasoning.
SERVES 4 TO 6
COOKING NOTES
The original recipe gave no alternative for salt pork. Since that can be hard to come by, I substituted bacon. A thick slice of pancetta would also do.
This stew freezes well. Thaw in the refrigerator, then reheat, covered, in a 250-degree oven.
I needed to add 2 tablespoons butter to the pot before browning the beef.
SERVING SUGGESTIONS
Seasoned Olives (here), Fresh and Smoked Salmon Spread (here), salad with Creamy Salad Dressing (here), Mashed Potatoes Anna (here), Haricots Verts with Balsamic Vinaigrette (here), Shredded Brussels Sprouts with Bacon and Pine Nuts (here), Baked Mushrooms (here), Roasted Cauliflower (here), Toasts with Chocolate, Olive Oil, and Sea Salt (here), Marcella’s Pear Cake (here), Pierre Hermé’s Chocolate Sablés (here)
SEPTEMBER 19, 2001: “WHEN THE PATH TO SERENITY WENDS PAST THE STOVE,” BY REGINA SCHRAMBLING.
—2001
SALTIMBOCCA
Most saltimbocca recipes instruct you to wrap the veal in the prosciutto, but the prosciutto gets too crisp and chewy. Here, tucked inside the veal, it seasons the meat and is protected by it.
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8 thin slices prosciutto
4 small veal cutlets, pounded very thin
1½ tablespoons unsalted butter
1½ tablespoons olive oil
8 sage leaves
Sea salt
Splash of dry white wine (just a few drops)
1. Place 2 slices of prosciutto on each piece of veal so they hang over the ends and overlap in the middle. Fold each piece of veal in half, securing it with toothpicks in 2 places.
2. Heat the butter and olive oil in a medium nonstick pan until foamy. Add the veal packages and sage leaves and cook for about 1 minute on each side, turning once, until slightly brown. Season with salt as the packages cook, and sprinkle the white wine into the pan as they finish. Discard the sage and serve.
SERVES 4
SERVING SUGGESTIONS
Crostini Romani (here), Italian Roast Potatoes (here), Fried Artichokes Azzurro (here), Baked Zucchini with Herbs and Tomatoes (here), Yette’s Garden Platter (here), Panna Cotta (here), Almond Granita (here), Canestrelli (Shortbread from Ovada; here)
DECEMBER 5, 2001: “A ROMAN MUSE FOR AMERICA’S GREAT CHEFS,” BY AMANDA HESSER. RECIPE ADAPTED FROM PAOLA DI MAURO, A WINEMAKER AND HOME COOK IN MARINO, ITALY.
—2001
CODA ALLA VACCINARA (OXTAIL BRAISED WITH TOMATO AND CELERY)
A dish found all over Rome. I love having to excavate the oxtails for their sweet, fat-rimmed nuggets of meat.
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¼ pound thickly sliced pancetta, cut into ¼-inch dice
1 carrot, peeled and finely diced
1 small onion, finely diced
4 inner stalks celery, 1 finely diced, 3 sliced into 3-inch-long pieces
Extra virgin olive oil
3 pounds oxtails (trimmed weight), severed at the joints into pieces about 3 inches long
Sea salt or kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1½ tablespoons tomato paste
2 cups dry white wine
3 sprigs fresh marjoram or 1½ teaspoons dried marjoram
¼ teaspoon ground cloves
¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon
One 28-ounce can Italian tomatoes, drained
1. Combine the pancetta, carrot, onion, and diced celery in a Dutch oven or deep heavy casserole that can hold all the oxtails in one layer and add enough oil to cover the bottom of the pot (about 3 tablespoons). Place the pot over medium heat and cook until the pancetta renders its fat, about 15 minutes.
2. Heat the oven to 325 degrees. Season the oxtails on all sides with salt and pepper, add to the casserole, and brown well on all sides, turning them only after they’ve browned. Using tongs, remove the oxtails from pan to a bowl. Set aside.
3. Add the tomato paste to the vegetables in the casserole and cook, stirring, until it caramelizes, about 2 minutes. Stir in the wine, bring to a boil, and cook for 3 minutes. Add the marjoram, cloves, cinnamon, and then the tomatoes, squishing them between your fingers into the pot.
4. Return the oxtails to the pot. The liquid should come one-third of the way up the ingredients; if necessary, add a little water. Bring the liquid to a boil, cover the pot, and place in the oven. Braise for 1½ hours, turning the oxtails now and then.
5. Add the remaining celery and continue cooking until the meat is tender and falling off the bone, 30 to 60 minutes longer. Remove the pot from the oven and let sit for 15 minutes, then add salt and pepper to taste.
6. Serve on a large platter or in shallow bowls, making sure everyone gets a bit of the pulpy sauce and celery.
SERVES 6
SERVING SUGGESTIONS
Puntarelle with Anchovies (here), Red Wine Risotto (here), Potato Gnocchi (here), Roasted Cauliflower (here), Licorice Ice Cream (here), Whiskey Cake (here), Olive Oil and Apple Cider Cake (here)
JANUARY 27, 2002: “FOOD DIARY: WHEN IN ROME,” BY AMANDA HESSER.
—2002
RIB-EYE STEAKS WITH PEPPERED CRANBERRY MARMALADE AND SWISS CHARD
Steak is meant for the broiler or grill, so its glorious fat can pop all over the contained space of your (self-cleaning) oven or in the open space of the (self-cleaning) great outdoors. Only masochistic French chefs pan-sear steak: in Alain Ducasse’s world, you should cook steak on your stovetop and the heat should be such that even a spatter guard is no match for the blobs of beef fat jumping around your kitchen.
But, then again, masochistic French chefs do come up with accompaniments like peppered cranberry marmalade textured with a matrix of shallots, celery, and onion, and for this, we should forgive them their stubbornness.
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Two 1½-pound boneless rib-eye steaks, each about 1½ inches thick, at room temperature
Salt
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
4 large cloves garlic, unpeeled, crushed
Freshly ground black pepper
2 sprigs thyme
Peppered Cranberry Marmalade (recipe follows)
Sautéed Swiss Chard (recipe follows)
1. Place a heavy sauté pan large enough to hold both steaks comfortably over medium heat. Stand the steaks up in the pan on the fatty side and cook until the fat has browned and most of it has been rendered into the pan.
2. Use tongs to turn the steaks onto a flat side, dust with salt, and cook until browned on the first side. Turn and cook on the second side until browned but still very rare. Pour off all but a couple of tablespoons of fat, and add the butter and crushed garlic. Cook, basting the steaks with the butter and fat, until cooked almost to the desired degree of doneness: for medium-rare, it will take about 5 minutes on each side.
3. Remove the pan from the heat, season the steaks with salt and pepper, and place a sprig of thyme on each. Set the pan aside—the steaks must rest in a warm place for at least 10 to 15 minutes. They can rest longer than that if placed in a very low (150-degree) oven after the first 10 minutes.
4. Cut the steaks into thick slices, trimming away excess internal fat. Divide among 4 warm dinner plates, and place a generous dollop of cranberry marmalade alongside each. Serve with the chard and remaining marmalade.
SERVES 4
PEPPERED CRANBERRY MARMALADE
1 cup cranberry juice
1 cup dried cranberries
½ cup cherry liqueur (not kirsch)
6 tablespoons sherry vinegar
1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
½ cup minced shallots
½ cup minced onion
½ cup minced celery
⅓ cup glace de viande or concentrated beef stock or Demi-Glace (see here)
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1. Place the cranberry juice in a saucepan and bring to a simmer. Add the cranberries and remove from the heat. Allow to plump for 40 minutes.
2. Drain the cranberries, reserving the juice. Place in a food processor with the liqueur and ¼ cup vinegar, and pulse until chopped.
3. Heat the oil in a 3-quart saucepan. Add the shallots, onion, and celery and cook over low heat until tender but not colored. Stir in ¼ cup of the reserved cranberry juice and the remaining 2 tablespoons vinegar and simmer until most of the liquid has evaporated. Stir in the cranberry mixture and simmer until thick, about 5 minutes.
4. Stir in the glace de viande, salt to taste, and a generous amount of pepper. Serve at once, or rewarm just before serving.
MAKES 2 CUPS
SAUTÉED SWISS CHARD
2 bunches Swiss chard, 1 red, 1 white
1½ cups chicken broth
2 large cloves garlic
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
⅓ cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1. Trim the leaves from the chard stems. Coarsely chop the leaves and set aside. Cut the stems into pieces ½ inch wide and 2 inches long.
2. Place the stems in a saucepan with the chicken broth, bring to a simmer, and simmer for 10 minutes, or until tender. Drain the stems and set aside. (The broth can be reserved for another use.)
3. Impale the garlic cloves on a large cooking fork. Heat the oil in a large skillet. Add the chard leaves and stems and sauté, stirring with the fork, until the leaves have wilted. Toss with the cheese and add salt and pepper to taste.
SERVES 4
SERVING SUGGESTIONS
Tuna Tartare (here), Golden Winter Puree (here), The Most Voluptuous Cauliflower (here), Lemon Cake (here), Evelyn Sharpe’s French Chocolate Cake (here), Delicate Bread Pudding (here)
FEBRUARY 27, 2002: “THE CHEF: STEAK WITH STYLE: EASY DOES IT,” BY ALAIN DUCASSE WITH FLORENCE FABRICANT.
—2002
VEAL CHOPS WITH SAGE
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4 veal chops with fat on the edges, about ¾ inch thick, at close to room temperature
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 tablespoon olive or vegetable oil
12 large leaves sage
1. Season the veal chops on one side with a generous amount of salt and pepper. Place a sauté pan large enough to hold the chops in a single layer over high heat for a minute or two. Add the butter and oil and heat until the foam subsides. Carefully lay the veal chops seasoned side down in the pan. Season the other side of the chops with salt and pepper and scatter the sage leaves over them, pushing a few down into the bottom of the pan. Cook the chops for 2 to 3 minutes, until browned, then turn and cook on the other side for 2 minutes.
2. Transfer to a plate and garnish with the browned sage leaves.
SERVES 4
SERVING SUGGESTIONS
Crostini Romani (here), Fried Olives (here), Risotto with Lemon and Crème Fraîche (here), Puntarelle with Anchovies (here), Figs in Whiskey (here), Gooey Chocolate Stack (here), Tortoni (here)
SEPTEMBER 22, 2002: “FOOD DIARY: STOVE-TOP SEMINAR” BY AMANDA HESSER.
—2002
LAMB IN MUSTARD-MASCARPONE SAUCE
I made this delicious beast of a recipe while watching the Super Bowl, a program well suited to short bursts of busywork. I prepped everything in advance, and then set my timer between tasks so I could simply run in to the kitchen, add an ingredient to the pot, stir, taste, and get back to the game.
Big recipes can easily take over your day—don’t let them. Most can be adapted to your schedule, and this one, created by Karen MacNeil, the author of The Wine Bible and an owner of Fife Vineyards, is particularly forgiving. You can braise the lamb shanks up to 2 days in advance and then finish the sauce before serving.
Another good Super Bowl recipe—Carolina Chicken Bog—is here.
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For the Braised Lamb
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
5 pounds lamb shanks, cut crosswise into 2- to 3-inch pieces (by the butcher)
½ stalk celery, coarsely chopped
1 small onion, coarsely chopped
1 carrot, peeled and coarsely chopped
1 cup dry Marsala
3 cups chicken broth
For the Marinade
3 large cloves garlic, crushed
½ small onion, chopped
½ cup Dijon mustard
2 tablespoons minced rosemary
2 tablespoons dry Marsala
½ teaspoon cracked black pepper
1 tablespoon olive oil
4 ounces thinly sliced pancetta, cut into ¼-inch-wide strips
12 large shallots
One 6-inch branch rosemary
12 cloves garlic, crushed
1 tablespoon ground cumin
⅓ cup dry Marsala
¼ cup white wine vinegar
1 tablespoon sweet paprika
1 tablespoon tomato paste
½ cup mascarpone cheese
1. Up to 2 days before serving, heat the oil in a large Dutch oven over medium-high heat. In batches, brown the shanks on all sides; transfer to a platter. Add the celery, onion, and carrot to the pot and sauté for about 3 minutes. Add the shanks, Marsala, chicken broth, and enough water to cover and bring to a boil, then reduce the heat, cover, and simmer until the lamb is tender, 1 to 1½ hours. Cool, cover, and refrigerate.
2. About 2 hours before serving, scrape the fat off the top of the meat and discard. Remove the meat from the shanks, break it into 1-inch chunks, and return to the pot. Mix the marinade ingredients, add to the lamb and cooking liquid, and let stand at room temperature for 1 hour.
3. Heat the olive oil in a large deep skillet over medium-high heat and crisp the pancetta; remove to a bowl. Add the shallots and rosemary to the skillet and sauté until the shallots are browned. Set the shallots aside and discard the rosemary. Add the garlic and cumin and sauté for 3 minutes, then deglaze the pan with the Marsala and vinegar, boiling over medium heat until reduced to about ⅓ cup.
4. Add the lamb and cooking liquid and cook, stirring, for 5 minutes. Stir in the paprika and tomato paste and mix well. Stir in the shallots and simmer for 15 minutes.
5. Remove the lamb and shallots to a bowl and keep warm. Boil the liquid until thickened, about 10 minutes. Whisk in the mascarpone and add the lamb and shallots. Spoon over barley or couscous. Sprinkle with the crisp pancetta.
SERVES 6
SERVING SUGGESTIONS
Karen MacNeil serves the lamb with couscous or barley. A few more ideas: Chiffonade Salad (here), Artichauts Vinaigrette (here), Caramelized Endive (here), Sugar Snap Peas with Horseradish (here), Sautéed Potatoes with Parsley (here), Mashed Potatoes Anna (here), Pear Upside-Down Cake (here), Tourtière (Apple, Prune, and Armagnac Tart; here), Frozen Meringue Velvet (here).
SEPTEMBER 29, 2002: “QUE SYRAH, SYRAH,” BY JONATHAN REYNOLDS. RECIPE ADAPTED FROM KAREN MACNEIL, AUTHOR OF THE WINE BIBLE.
—2002
BRISKET IN SWEET-AND-SOUR SAUCE
This brisket has become something of a classic. It’s bad karma to use Diet Coke in place of Coke for this recipe—or any other.
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For the Sauce
1 medium onion, quartered
One 2-inch piece fresh ginger, peeled
6 large cloves garlic
¼ cup Dijon mustard
½ cup dry red wine
1½ cups Coca-Cola or ginger ale
1 cup ketchup
¼ cup honey
¼ cup cider vinegar
¼ cup soy sauce
½ cup olive oil
¼ teaspoon ground cloves
1 tablespoon coarsely ground black pepper, or to taste
One 6- to 7-pound first-cut brisket, rinsed and patted thoroughly dry
1. Heat the oven to 350 degrees. Place all the sauce ingredients in a food processor and process until smooth.
2. Place the brisket fat side up in a heavy flameproof roasting pan just large enough to hold it, and pour the sauce over it. Cover tightly and bake for 2 hours.
3. Turn the brisket over and bake, uncovered, for 1 hour, or until fork-tender. Cool, then cover the brisket and refrigerate overnight.
4. The next day, heat the oven to 350 degrees. Transfer the brisket to a cutting board, cut off the fat, and slice with a sharp knife, against the grain, to the desired thickness. Remove any congealed fat from the sauce, set the pan over 2 burners, and bring to a boil. Taste the sauce to see if it needs reducing. If so, boil it down for a few minutes, or as needed.
5. Return the meat to the sauce and warm in the oven for 20 minutes.
SERVES 12
SERVING SUGGESTIONS
Caramelized Onion and Quark Dip (here), Russ & Daughters’ Chopped Chicken Liver (here), Latkes (here), Smoked Mashed Potatoes (here), Barley Risotto (here), Salade à la Romaine (here), Revani Verrias (Semolina Cake; here), Purple Plum Torte (here)
NOVEMBER 27, 2002: “JUST RIGHT FOR THE FIRST NIGHT OF HANUKKAH,” BY JOAN NATHAN. RECIPE ADAPTED FROM LEVANA’S TABLE, BY LEVANA KIRSCHENBAUM.
—2002
NEW YORK STRIP STEAK WITH HORSERADISH-MINT GLAZE
Bobby Flay, the chef who came up with this recipe, declared that by 2008, ancho chile powder—whose flavor he described as that of “a spicy raisin”—would be in everyone’s pantry. Maybe it hasn’t made it to everyone’s pantry yet, but he was certainly on to something.
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For the Glaze
3 tablespoons Dijon mustard
2 tablespoons honey
1 tablespoon prepared horseradish, drained
3 mint leaves, finely chopped
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
For the Steaks
2 tablespoons coarsely ground black pepper
½ teaspoon ancho chile powder or crushed red pepper flakes
1 teaspoon kosher salt
2 New York strip steaks (10 ounces each)
2 tablespoons canola oil
1. To make the glaze, whisk together the mustard, honey, horseradish, and mint in a small bowl. Season with salt and pepper, and set aside.
2. Heat the oven to 425 degrees. Combine the black pepper, chile powder, and salt in a small bowl. Rub one side of each steak with the mixture.
3. Place a medium ovenproof sauté pan over high heat, add the oil and heat, until smoking. Place the steaks in the pan rub side down and sear for 35 to 40 seconds. Turn the steaks over, season with salt, and place the pan in the oven. Cook until the steaks are medium-rare, 8 to 10 minutes, brushing with the glaze during the last 2 minutes of cooking.
4. Remove the steaks from the oven and brush again with the glaze. Allow to rest for 5 minutes before serving.
SERVES 2
SERVING SUGGESTIONS
Fennel and Apple Salad with Juniper (here), Chopped Salad with Lemon Zest Vinaigrette (here), Broccoli Puree with Ginger (here), Roasted Cauliflower (here), Wilted Chard with Pickled Red Onion (here), Fresh Corn Griddle Cakes with Parmesan and Chives (here), Moroccan Rice Pudding (here), Fresh Blueberry Buckle (here)
FEBRUARY 12, 2003: “THE CHEF: BOBBY FLAY: A PRETTY PENNY’S WORTH OF PRIME BEEF,” BY MATT LEE AND TED LEE. RECIPE ADAPTED FROM BOBBY FLAY, THE CHEF AND CO-OWNER OF MESA GRILL AND BOLO IN MANHATTAN.
—2003
PORK BURGERS
This is a true ham-burger: spicy, warm, and sloppy. Between bookends of toasted brioche lie dabs of aioli and romesco sauce, a cluster of arugula leaves, and a patty containing three forms of pork—ground pork, chorizo, and bacon—seasoned with cumin, chiles de árbol, and thyme.
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1½ teaspoons cumin seeds
Olive oil
¾ cup diced shallots
2 small dried chiles de árbol, or any dried chile, thinly sliced on the diagonal
Kosher salt
2 teaspoons thyme leaves
3 cups ground pork (about 1½ pounds)
½ cup Mexican chorizo, cut into small pieces
1 cup finely chopped applewood-smoked bacon (about ⅓ pound)
¼ cup roughly chopped flat-leaf parsley
Freshly ground black pepper
Aioli (here) and Romesco Sauce (here) or mayonnaise
6 brioche buns or floury hamburger buns
18 arugula leaves
1. Pour the cumin into a small pan, place over medium heat and cook, swirling the pan, until the seeds begin to toast. Coarsely pound the seeds in a mortar.
2. Cover the bottom of a medium sauté pan with a thick slick of oil, place over medium-low heat, and add the shallots. When the oil begins to sizzle, add the cumin and chiles. Stir, then season with salt. When the shallots become translucent, stir in the thyme leaves and turn off the heat.
3. Combine the pork, chorizo, and bacon in a bowl. Add the shallot mixture and parsley and season with salt and pepper. Using your hands, lift and fold the ingredients together until blended; do not overmix.
4. Cover the bottom of a medium sauté pan with a thin layer of oil and place over medium-high heat. Form the meat into 6 patties that will fit the buns; do not make them too thick. Cook the burgers until browned on the bottom. Turn them, basting with the fat in the pan. When they are browned on both sides, cut a slit in one patty to check for doneness—it should be only slightly pink.
5. Toast the insides of the buns in a pan with a little oil. Spread with aioli and romesco, if using, or mayonnaise. Lay a burger on each bun and top with the arugula leaves.
SERVES 6
COOKING NOTE
Use Mexican chorizo, which is a fresh sausage. Spanish chorizo is dry-cured and too firm for this dish.
SERVING SUGGESTIONS
Pickled Shrimp (here), Fried Olives (here), Beet Tzatziki (here), Cucumbers in Cream (here), Saratoga Potatoes (here), Strawberry Sorbet (here), Churros with Chocolate Sauce (here)
MAY 21, 2003: “THE CHEF: SUZANNE GOIN: A PORK BURGER THAT DOES THE SALSA,” BY AMANDA HESSER. RECIPE ADAPTED FROM SUZANNE GOIN, THE CHEF AND CO-OWNER OF LUCQUES AND A.O.C. IN LOS ANGELES, CALIFORNIA.
—2003
LAMB SHOULDER CHOPS WITH ANCHOVY AND MINT BUTTER
You can add almost any herb you like to the butter—sage, savory thyme, or marjoram, for instance.
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4 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened
2 tablespoons minced shallots
1 tablespoon chopped mint
4 anchovy fillets
4 lamb shoulder chops, ½ inch thick
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
4 lemon wedges
1. Combine the butter, shallots, mint, and anchovies in a small bowl. Using a fork, mash to a paste. Spoon the paste onto a square of plastic wrap and roll into a 3-inch-long log. Twist the ends to seal, and refrigerate for at least 20 minutes.
2. Meanwhile, heat the broiler with a rack positioned 4 to 6 inches from the flame. Season the lamb generously on both sides with salt and pepper. Place the lamb on the broiling pan and broil for about 2 minutes a side for rare, 3 minutes for medium-rare.
3. To serve, place a chop on each of 4 serving plates and top with a ½-inch-thick slice of anchovy butter and a wedge of lemon.
SERVES 4
If you prefer, you can cook the chops on a grill. Heat a charcoal or gas grill to medium-high, and grill the chops for 2 to 3 minute per side.
SERVING SUGGESTIONS
Carrot and Fennel Soup (here), Soupe à l’Ail (Garlic Soup; here), Barley Risotto (here), Saratoga Potatoes (here), Potato “Tostones” (Flattened Potatoes; here), Stewed Fennel (here), Zucchini and Vermouth (here), Fresh Ginger Cake (here), David Eyre’s pancake (here), Raspberry Bavarian Cream (here)
FEBRUARY 18, 2004: “A LITTLE FISH, MUCH MALIGNED,” BY AMANDA HESSER.
—2004
TUSCAN-STYLE PORK SPARERIBS
I’m not sure how Worcestershire sauce and Tabasco figure into Tuscan cooking; Cesare Casella, a New York chef who moved here from Italy, has clearly taken up the time-honored immigrant tradition of adapting a cuisine in a new environment. But I have made this recipe a bunch of times—it’s easy, and it’s so pleasing to see how the components merge as if they were always meant to be one.
Serve the ribs and sauce in large shallow bowls, with beer and plenty of napkins on the side.
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3 tablespoons minced garlic, plus 2 cloves garlic, sliced
3 tablespoons finely chopped sage
2 tablespoons finely chopped rosemary
1½ tablespoons coarse salt, plus more to taste
1 tablespoon freshly ground black pepper, or more to taste
1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons crushed red pepper flakes
7 pounds pork spareribs
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, or as needed
Two 28-ounce cans tomatoes, with their juice
1½ tablespoons Worcestershire sauce
1½ tablespoons Tabasco sauce
2½ cups water
1 cup dry white wine
1. Combine the minced garlic, sage, rosemary, salt, black pepper, and 1 tablespoon crushed red pepper in a small bowl. Put the spareribs on a baking sheet and rub well with the spice mixture. Marinate in the refrigerator for at least 24 hours.
2. Heat the oven to 375 degrees. Arrange the ribs in a 12-by-16-inch roasting pan (use 2 pans if necessary) and roast uncovered for 1 hour, or until browned.
3. Turn the ribs over and roast for another hour. If the bottom of the pan begins to burn, add a small amount of water or olive oil.
4. Meanwhile, pour the olive oil into a large saucepan, add the sliced garlic and remaining tablespoon of crushed red pepper, and sauté over medium heat until the garlic begins to color. Add the tomatoes, Worcestershire sauce, Tabasco, and 1½ cups water, season with salt, and bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer. As the tomatoes soften, break them up with a whisk and stir. Simmer the sauce, uncovered, for 30 minutes. Adjust the seasoning, and remove from the heat.
5. When the ribs have browned on both sides, pour the wine, remaining 1 cup water, and the tomato sauce over them. (If you’ve used 2 pans to roast the ribs, combine them all in one pan now.) Cover the pan with foil and roast for 40 minutes.
6. Remove the foil, skim off the excess fat, and roast uncovered for 20 minutes more. Cut into 4-rib sections.
SERVES 6
SERVING SUGGESTIONS
Stewed Corn (here), Fried Green Tomatoes (here), Italian Roast Potatoes (here), Soft Polenta (here), Strawberry Sorbet (here), Blueberry Pie with a Lattice Top (here), Canestrelli (here)
MARCH 10, 2004: “THE CHEF: CESARE CASELLA; ONCE UPON A TIME IN THE ITALIAN WILD WEST,” BY MATT LEE AND TED LEE. ADAPTED FROM CESARE CASELLA, CHEF AND OWNER OF BEPPE RESTAURANT IN NEW YORK CITY.
—2004
Julia Reed developed this recipe for the Magazine, and it’s one we should all dog-ear. “Soaking the chops for a day or two in a water bath with sugar, salt, and spices makes them much more tender and flavorful,” she wrote, “but if you haven’t planned ahead, much the same result can be achieved by rubbing them with salt and herbs and letting them sit at room temperature for a couple of hours.” (Brush off the salt before grilling.)
———
For the Brine
¾ cup kosher salt
⅔ cup sugar
4 quarts warm water
20 juniper berries
20 allspice berries
1 teaspoon black peppercorns
4 bay leaves
3 sprigs thyme
3 sprigs marjoram
For the Chops
Six 1½-inch-thick center-cut rib or loin pork chops
Olive oil
Freshly ground black pepper
12 to 15 sprigs rosemary (optional)
Salt
1. To make the brine, dissolve the salt and sugar in the warm water in a large bowl. Lightly crush the juniper, allspice berries, and peppercorns with the bay leaves and herbs in a mortar. Add to the brine.
2. When the brine is cool, add the pork chops and completely submerge, putting weights on top of a plate if necessary. Refrigerate overnight.
3. Remove the chops from the brine about 2 hours before cooking, and dry with paper towels. Rub them with a bit of olive oil and pepper. (You can also perfume the meat at this point with a few sprigs of fresh rosemary, placed on top of and beneath the chops.) Allow the chops to come to room temperature.
4. Heat a charcoal or gas grill, or preheat 2 heavy skillets over medium-high heat. Grill the chops, partly covered if possible to control flaming, over medium-hot coals for about 4 minutes a side, or fry in the skillets, turning once. Place them on a warm platter, cover loosely with foil, and allow them to rest for about 10 minutes.
5. Sprinkle the chops with salt if needed.
SERVES 6
COOKING NOTE
Because the brine stiffens the pork’s texture, the chops will feel firm even when cooked properly in the center. Keep an eye on them.
SERVING SUGGESTIONS
Smoked Mashed Potatoes (here), Mushrooms with Manzanilla Sherry (here), Butter-Braised Asparagus and Oyster Mushrooms with Peas and Tarragon (here), Beets in Lime Cream (here), Anton Mosimann’s Braised Brussels Sprouts in Cream (here), Leek and Shiitake Bread Pudding (here), Swedish Ginger Cookies (here), Spanish Cream (here), Fruit Crostatas (here)
MARCH 14, 2004: “FOOD: MAKING THE CUT,” BY JULIA REED.
—2004
SHAKING BEEF
Like almost any stir-fry, shaking beef—the most popular dish at the Slanted Door in San Francisco—is a cinch to make: you toss garlic-infused beef cubes with sugar and salt, sear them in a vinegar-and-soy mixture, and send them to the table with salt, pepper, and lime. The challenge comes in browning the beef properly in a wok. “People think a wok is a big salad bowl with a flame under it,” Charles Phan, the owner of the restaurant, told Mark Bittman. “They think you can throw all the ingredients in, toss them around, and you’ve got a stir-fry. But that’s ridiculous. When you cook in a wok, you’re not just looking to cook things—you want to give them what we call ‘the breath of the wok,’ the special taste that comes from being cooked over intensely high heat.”
The best way to achieve this quality is to be bold with the heat and to work in batches. Bittman suggests 2 batches, but you may want to do 4 the first time round.
———
1½ to 2 pounds beef tenderloin (filet mignon), trimmed of excess fat and cut into 1-inch cubes
2 tablespoons chopped garlic
2 tablespoons sugar
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
About 5 tablespoons neutral oil, like corn or canola
¼ cup rice wine vinegar
¼ cup rice wine or dry white wine
3 tablespoons soy sauce
1 tablespoon Asian fish sauce
1 red onion, thinly sliced
3 scallions, cut into 1-inch lengths
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 bunches watercress, trimmed and washed, or 1 head red leaf lettuce, separated into leaves, and washed
2 limes, cut into wedges
1. Toss the meat with the garlic, half the sugar, 1 teaspoon salt, ¼ teaspoon pepper, and 1 tablespoon oil in a bowl and let marinate for about 2 hours. (Refrigerate if your kitchen is very warm.)
2. Meanwhile, combine the vinegar, remaining sugar, wine, soy sauce, and fish sauce in a bowl. Taste and add salt and pepper if necessary. Mix about 1 tablespoon salt and 1 teaspoon pepper in a small bowl.
3. Divide the meat into 2 portions, and do the same with the onion and scallions. Put a wok or a large skillet over the maximum heat and add about 2 tablespoons oil. When the oil smokes, add half the meat in one layer. Let it sit until a brown crust forms, then turn to brown the other side; browning should take less than 5 minutes. Add half the onion and half the scallions and cook, stirring, for about 1 minute. Add half the vinegar mixture and shake the pan to release the beef, stirring if necessary. Add half the butter and shake the pan until the butter melts. Remove the meat, and repeat.
4. Serve the beef, drained of excess juices, over the watercress, passing the salt and pepper mixture and lime wedges at the table.
SERVES 4
COOKING NOTE
Phan uses beef tenderloin for this recipe. Feel free to swap it out for a cheaper cut like skirt steak.
SERVING SUGGESTIONS
Pork-and-Toasted-Rice-Powder Spring Rolls (here), Pad Thai–Style Rice Salad (here), Mi Quang (Rice Noodles with Shrimp, Herbs, and Fried Pork Rinds; here), Tea Ice Cream (here)
APRIL 21, 2004: “FROM OUT OF THE WEST, A WOK SLINGER, SEARING THE BEEF,” BY MARK BITTMAN. ADAPTED FROM CHARLES PHAN, THE CHEF AT THE SLANTED DOOR IN SAN FRANCISCO.
—2004
BRAISED LAMB SHOULDER WITH SHEEP’S-MILK CAVATELLI
———
For the Lamb
10 garlic cloves, chopped
6 shallots, chopped
8 Thai or serrano chiles, chopped
2 tablespoons thyme leaves
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
¾ cup Armagnac or other brandy
½ cup plus 1 tablespoon olive oil
1 bone-in lamb shoulder roast, preferably organic (about 4 pounds)
For the Braising Vegetables
10 shallots, chopped
1 to 2 carrots, peeled and chopped
¼ cup chopped fresh ginger
1 fennel bulb, trimmed and chopped
4 stalks celery, chopped
1 head garlic, cut horizontally in half
6 cups chicken or lamb broth
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into pieces
1 pound cavatelli
1½ cups heavy cream
½ pound semi-soft sheep’s-milk cheese, like Tomme du Berger, cut into small pieces
A chunk of hard sheep’s-milk cheese, like Ossau Vieille or P’tit Basque, for grating
1. To marinate the lamb, combine the garlic, shallots, chiles, thyme, a generous pinch each of salt and pepper, ¼ cup Armagnac, and ½ cup olive oil in a blender and puree. Spread all over the lamb. Marinate, refrigerated, overnight.
2. To cook the lamb and vegetables, heat the oven to 250 degrees. Heat the remaining tablespoon of oil in a heavy skillet over high heat. Add the lamb and brown on all sides, about 10 to 15 minutes. Remove the lamb from the pan and pour off the fat. Add the shallots, carrots, ginger, fennel, celery, and garlic and cook until lightly browned. Deglaze the pan with the remaining ½ cup Armagnac, scraping up the browned bits, and pour the vegetables and liquid into a Dutch oven. Set the lamb on top, add the broth, and bring to a simmer.
3. Cover, place in the oven, and braise for 3 hours, or until the meat is tender and easily pulls away from the bone. Transfer the lamb to a dish and allow to cool.
4. Meanwhile, skim the fat from the cooking liquid (if you refrigerate the cooking liquid for 1 hour, or overnight, the fat will lift off in pieces). Strain out the vegetables, return the liquid to the pan and reduce by half over medium-high heat, about 25 minutes.
5. Separate the lamb into 8 portions. When the sauce is reduced by half, whisk in the butter pieces one at a time. Adjust the seasoning, return the lamb pieces to the pot, and baste with sauce to reheat.
6. Meanwhile, cook the cavatelli according to the package instructions; drain.
7. Warm the cream in a large pot over medium-low heat. Add the semi-soft cheese and stir until melted. Fold in the cavatelli.
8. To serve, divide the pasta among individual dishes, top with the lamb pieces, and spoon the sauce over the meat. Finish with grated sheep’s-milk cheese.
SERVES 8
COOKING NOTE
You can use boneless lamb shoulder if you can’t find bone-in.
SERVING SUGGESTIONS
Smoked Mackerel on Toasts (here), Bagna Cauda (here), Fried Artichokes Azzurro (here), Eggplant Involtini (here), Mushrooms with Manzanilla Sherry (here), Steamed Fennel with Red Pepper Oil (here), Puree of Peas and Watercress (here), Reuben’s Apple Pancake (here), Lee’s Marlborough Tart (here), Marjolaine (Multilayered Chocolate and Praline Cake; here), Marcella’s Pear Cake (here), Red Wine Ice Cream (here)
NOVEMBER 7, 2004: “LAISSEZ-FARE,” BY AMANDA HESSER. RECIPE ADAPTED FROM ZAK PELACCIO, THE CHEF AND OWNER OF 5 NINTH RESTAURANT IN NEW YORK CITY.
—2004
BORDER TOWN HUNTER’S STEW WITH ANTELOPE (OR VENISON), POBLANOS, PUMPKIN, AND HOMINY
If you can’t get antelope or venison, use cubed pork shoulder and start checking it for doneness after 2 hours of simmering.
———
3 pounds antelope or venison stew meat, cut into 2-inch cubes
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 medium onions, chopped
2 poblano chiles, chopped
6 cloves garlic, minced
1 small sugar pumpkin or 1 medium butternut squash, peeled and cubed (about 3 cups)
3 tablespoons New Mexico or ancho chile powder, or to taste
4 teaspoons dried oregano, preferably Mexican
2 bay leaves, preferably fresh
1 cinnamon stick
One 12-ounce bottle amber beer, such as Shiner Bock, Bohemia, or Dos Equis Amber
4 cups chicken broth, or more as needed
Two 15½-ounce cans white hominy, drained and rinsed
Lime wedges for garnish
1. Season the meat generously with salt and pepper, and let stand for 30 minutes.
2. Heat the oil in a large Dutch oven or other heavy pot over medium-high heat until very hot but not smoking. Add the meat in batches (do not overcrowd the pot) and sear until well browned on all sides. Using a slotted spoon, transfer to a bowl.
3. Add the onions and chiles to the pan, reduce the heat to medium, and sauté until softened, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and sauté for another 2 minutes. Add the pumpkin, chile powder, oregano, bay leaves, and cinnamon stick and sauté until the spices thicken into a paste and coat the vegetables, about 2 minutes. Add the beer and stir well, scraping the bottom of the pot.
4. Return the meat to the pot and add the chicken broth and hominy. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to low and simmer, partially covered, until the meat is tender, 2 to 2½ hours. Add more stock or water if necessary to prevent the stew from becoming too thick.
5. Remove and discard the bay leaves and adjust the salt to taste. Serve garnished with wedges of lime.
SERVES 6 TO 8
SERVING SUGGESTIONS
Sweet-and-Spicy Pepper Stew (here), Pineapple Carpaccio with Lime Sorbet (here)
OCTOBER 19, 2005: “THE FALL COOK: THE WILD FLAVORS OF TEXAS HILL COUNTRY,” BY PAULA DISBROWE.
—2005
MATT’S WHOLE BRISKET WITH TOMATO GRAVY
Matt is Matt Lee. He and his brother Ted, known around town as the Lee Brothers, have been a bright spot in the Times food sections for more than a decade. They’ve covered everything from food chemistry to the men who dig wine caves, but their culinary heart lies in the South, where they lived for a few years growing up. See the cheese straws here, and The Lee Bros. Southern Cookbook.
The sauce that cooks with this brisket is densely spiced, which makes it seem like a cross between tomato sauce and mole.
———
¼ cup minced garlic (about 12 cloves)
2 tablespoons finely chopped rosemary
1 tablespoon kosher salt, plus more to taste
2 tablespoons freshly ground black pepper, plus more to taste
1 tablespoon crushed red pepper flakes
2 teaspoons brown sugar
1 tablespoon smoked paprika (pimentón) or hot paprika
One 8- to 9-pound trimmed whole brisket
¼ cup extra virgin olive oil
3 cups chopped yellow onions (about 2 large onions)
One 35-ounce can plus one 28-ounce can tomatoes (about 7 cups), with their liquid
1¼ cups fruity white wine
1. Heat the oven to 450 degrees. Combine the garlic, rosemary, salt, pepper, red pepper, brown sugar, and paprika in a small bowl. Place the brisket fat side up in a large deep roasting pan (about 13 by 16 inches) and rub all over with the mixture.
2. Roast the brisket, uncovered, for 20 minutes.
3. While the brisket cooks, pour the olive oil into a large saucepan over medium heat, add the onions, and sauté, stirring occasionally, until the onions soften, about 5 minutes. Add the tomatoes, and their liquid, and bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer. Simmer uncovered, stirring occasionally, and breaking up the tomatoes with a spoon or whisk, for 10 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper and remove from the heat.
4. Remove the brisket from the oven and reduce the oven temperature to 325 degrees. Pour 1 cup wine and the tomato sauce over the brisket. Cover the pan as tightly as possible with foil and roast for 3½ hours, turning once at 2 hours and again at 3 hours, each time carefully replacing the foil.
5. Transfer the brisket to a platter. Allow the sauce to settle for a moment in the pan, then skim off the fat. Transfer the sauce and to a blender and puree until smooth, adding the remaining ¼ cup wine. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
6. Slice the brisket against the grain, starting from the thinnest end, into ¼-inch-thick slices. Serve with the sauce.
SERVES 10
COOKING NOTES
Matt Lee and Ted Lee explained, “A whole brisket is composed of two flat pieces of meat (typically sold separately as ‘first cut’ and ‘second cut’) sandwiched together with a layer of fat between them and with a thick layer of fat along one side. A 12-pound untrimmed whole brisket weighs about 8 pounds when trimmed. If purchasing the brisket untrimmed, trim the external fat to within ⅓ or ½ inch; also, excavate any large cavities of fat between the two layers.”
You can cook this a day ahead, which makes both lifting the chilled fat off the top of the sauce and slicing the meat easier. Prepare it up through Step 4, then let it cool and refrigerate until the next day.
SERVING SUGGESTIONS
Latkes (here), Smoked Mashed Potatoes (here), Mezzaluna Salad (here), Purple Plum Torte (here), Buttermilk Pie (here)
APRIL 12, 2006: “GOT A CROWD COMING OVER? THINK BIG CUTS OF MEAT,” BY MATT LEE AND TED LEE.
—2006
STEAK AU POIVRE
Do use a variety of peppercorns—it will refresh your perspective on this dish. Spreading crushed peppercorns on steak always feels wrong and excessive, but the pepper mellows when seared. I promise.
———
2 tablespoons mixed peppercorns (such as long pepper, Pondicherry, cubeb, and Tasmanian black pepper)
4 strip steaks, 1½ inches thick (10 to 12 ounces each)
Kosher salt
1 to 2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 large shallot, thinly sliced
⅓ cup Cognac or other brandy, plus additional for finishing the sauce
2 cups brown veal or beef broth
⅓ cup heavy cream
2 tablespoons green peppercorns in brine, drained and rinsed
1. Heat the oven to 400 degrees. Crush the peppercorns between two layers of a kitchen towel with a rolling pin. Season both sides of the steaks with salt and sprinkle evenly with the crushed pepper, pressing gently so that it adheres.
2. Set a large heavy sauté pan over medium-high heat and add 1 tablespoon oil. When the oil starts to smoke, add 2 of the steaks and sear until browned, about 2 minutes a side. Transfer to a rack set in a shallow roasting pan. Repeat with the remaining steaks, adding more oil to the pan if necessary. Set the sauté pan aside.
3. Put the steaks in the oven to finish cooking: for medium-rare meat, remove when the internal temperature registers 135 degrees on an instant-read thermometer, 10 to 12 minutes. Cover loosely with aluminum foil and let the meat rest for at least 5 minutes.
4. While the steaks are in the oven, set the sauté pan over low heat and add the shallot. Cook, stirring frequently, until lightly browned, about 3 minutes. Add the Cognac (be careful, as it may ignite) and boil until reduced by half, about 2 minutes. Add the broth, increase the heat to medium, and simmer until thickened and reduced by about half, 8 to 10 minutes. Remove from heat and stir in the cream and green peppercorns; season with salt if desired. Cover and keep warm.
5. When ready to serve, return the sauce to a bare simmer over medium heat and add a splash of Cognac. Spoon the sauce over the steaks.
SERVES 4
SERVING SUGGESTIONS
Mashed Potatoes Anna (here), Haricots Verts with Balsamic Vinaigrette (here), Wilted Chard with Pickled Red Onion (here), Spinach with Sour Cream (here), Apple Tarte Tatin (here), Apple Galette (here), Chocolate Pudding (here)
PERIOD DETAIL
In 1879, a writer noted, “For seasoning a dish, or for perfecting a salad, the delicate aroma which freshly ground pepper gives, when once tried, will convince the most unimpassioned diner of the great difference between a fresh and a stale condiment.”
MAY 7, 2006: “THE DISH: THE NEW STAPLES,” BY MERRILL STUBBS.
—2006
This dish captures just what diners wanted in the first years of the twenty-first century: a flavorful cut of meat (pork belly), braised and then paired with a bright, vigorously flavored salad (watermelon). Rich and crisp. Succulent and sharp. Evil and good.
This salad is the creation of Zak Pelaccio, an independent-minded young chef. After spending time in Southeast Asia, he came back to New York and opened a sophisticated restaurant with slacker décor in Williamsburg, Brooklyn—the restaurant-industry equivalent of an indie film. The food crowd took the bait, and Pelaccio, crowned the wunderkind of Williamsburg, soon moved to Manhattan, where he opened up two more very different places: 5 Ninth, an annoyingly popular restaurant with an ambitious menu, and Fatty Crab, a casual Southeast Asian spot that feels like a great strip-mall find in Los Angeles.
As you will see, Pelaccio likes his ingredients—plan a trip to an Asian market and make this with a friend who can help prep.
———
For the Pork Belly
3 pounds uncured pork belly, skin on
2 cups ketjap manis
6 tablespoons Chinese black vinegar
3 tablespoons dark soy sauce
3 tablespoons Asian fish sauce
Juice of 1 lime
Canola or peanut oil for deep-frying
Flour for dusting
Salt if needed
For the Watermelon Salad
One 5-pound watermelon
2 cups rice wine vinegar
1 cup water
3 shallots, thinly sliced
2 Thai chiles or 1 jalapeño pepper, thinly sliced
2 kaffir lime leaves
One 2-inch piece fresh ginger, peeled and thinly sliced
½ round (1 ounce) palm sugar or 2 tablespoons light brown sugar
1 tablespoon kosher salt
For the Dressing
1½ rounds palm sugar (3 ounces) or 6 tablespoons light brown sugar
1 cup rice wine vinegar
½ cup fresh lime juice (from about 4 limes)
One 6-ounce piece fresh ginger, peeled and sliced
6 cilantro roots with 1 inch of stems or 12 cilantro stems, cleaned
2 garlic cloves, roughly chopped
¾ teaspoon kosher salt
For the Garnish
3 scallions, thinly sliced
1 cup torn Vietnamese coriander (rau ram) or cilantro leaves
1 cup torn Thai or regular basil leaves
Sesame seeds (optional)
1. To prepare the pork belly, using a sharp knife, crosshatch the pork belly skin, making cuts ½ inch apart. Place the pork belly in a baking dish. Combine the kerjap manis, vinegar, soy sauce, fish sauce, and lime juice and pour over the pork belly. Marinate, refrigerated, for 24 to 48 hours, turning several times.
2. Heat the oven to 275 degrees. Place the belly skin side up in a baking pan and add 2 cups of the marinating liquid and 2 cups water. The liquid should come halfway up the pork; if necessary add more water or use a smaller pan. Cover the pan with foil and bake until a skewer penetrates the belly with little or no resistance, 3 to 4 hours. Remove the pork from the liquid and let cool.
3. Meanwhile to make the salad, cut the watermelon flesh into 1-inch cubes (discard the seeds).Reserve the rind. Refrigerate the flesh until ready to use. With a sharp knife, remove the outer green skin from the rind. Dice the white rind into ½-inch cubes. Transfer to a heatproof bowl.
4. Combine the rice wine vinegar, water, shallots, chiles, kaffir lime, ginger, palm sugar, and salt in a medium saucepan and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Cook until the sugar dissolves. Strain the liquid over the white rind. Let cool, then refrigerate for 1 hour.
5. To make the dressing, if using palm sugar, roughly crush it with a mortar and pestle, or place it in a plastic bag and crush with a hammer or heavy can. Combine the sugar, vinegar, lime juice, ginger, cilantro, garlic, and salt in a blender and blend until smooth.
6. Slice the pork belly into 1-inch chunks, leaving the skin on. Heat 1 inch of canola oil to 375 degrees in a medium saucepan or a wok. Lightly dust the pork belly cubes with flour, shaking off the excess. Working in batches, deep-fry the pork belly until dark golden brown and crispy, 4 to 6 minutes. Transfer to a paper-towel-lined plate. Season with salt if necessary.
7. Toss the watermelon flesh in a bowl with just enough dressing to coat. Divide the pork among serving plates, and top with the watermelon flesh and a few cubes each of pickled rind. Drizzle additional dressing around the plates. Garnish with the scallions, coriander, basil, and sesame seeds, if using.
SERVES 8
SERVING SUGGESTIONS
Pork-and-Toasted-Rice-Powder Spring Rolls (here), Mi Quang (Rice Noodles with Shrimp, Herbs, and Fried Pork Rinds; here), Minced Fish Salad (here), Mango Ice Cream (here), Tapioca Flamingo (here), Sticky Rice with Mango (here)
AUGUST 16, 2006: “THE CHEF: ZAK PELACCIO: THE FRESHEST PRODUCE (AND DUCK TONGUES?),” BY MELISSA CLARK.
—2006
HUNAN BEEF WITH CUMIN
Each bit of beef is wrapped in a musky veil of cumin, chiles, garlic, and sesame oil.
———
1 tablespoon Shaoxing wine or medium-dry sherry
1 tablespoon water
½ teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon light soy sauce
1 teaspoon dark soy sauce
1 tablespoon potato starch
¾ pound boneless short ribs or beef steak
¾ cup peanut oil
2 teaspoons minced fresh ginger
1 tablespoon finely chopped garlic
2 red chiles, seeded and finely chopped
2 to 4 teaspoons crushed red pepper flakes
2 teaspoons ground cumin
Salt
2 scallions, green parts only, thinly sliced
1 teaspoon Asian sesame oil
1. Mix the wine, water, salt, soy sauces, and potato starch in a medium bowl. Cut the beef across the grain into thin slices and add to the marinade, turning to coat.
2. Heat the oil over medium-high heat to about 275 degrees in a wok. Add the beef and stir gently for 2 to 3 minutes, then remove from the oil with a slotted spoon and drain well.
3. Pour off all but 3 tablespoons of the oil in the wok, and set over a high flame. Add the ginger, garlic, chiles, red pepper flakes, and cumin and stir-fry briefly until fragrant. Return the beef to the wok and stir well, seasoning with salt to taste. When the beef is sizzling and fragrant, add the scallion greens and toss briefly. Remove from the heat and stir in the sesame oil.
SERVES 2 TO 4—WITH A LOT OF SIDE DISHES
COOKING NOTES
You can use 2 teaspoons of either light or dark soy sauce if you don’t have both.
If you can’t find fresh red chiles, 2 small green jalapeños work just fine.
SERVING SUGGESTIONS
Oriental Watercress Soup (here), Jasmine Tea Rice (here), Spicy Cucumber Salad (here), Sugar Snap Peas with Horseradish (here), Lemon Lotus Ice Cream (here)
MARCH 14, 2007: “EAT DRINK MAKE REVOLUTION: THE CUISINE OF HUNAN PROVINCE,” BY ANNE MENDELSON. RECIPE ADAPTED FROM REVOLUTIONARY CHINESE COOKBOOK, BY FUCHSIA DUNLOP.
—2007
NUECES CANYON CABRITO (GOAT TACOS)
Though goat is the world’s most widely consumed meat, Americans are still just beginning to catch on. In 2008, Bill Niman, who founded the phenomenally successful meat company Niman Ranch, began raising and selling goats. The meat hasn’t yet found its way to Stop & Shop, but it may soon enough: goat, when grilled slowly, turns smoky and sweet, its fat softened to a glaze. And it makes the best taco you’ve ever tasted.
———
One 3-pound cabrito (goat) hindquarter
½ teaspoon ground allspice
½ teaspoon ground cumin
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
½ cup chopped cilantro
6 to 8 radishes, very thinly sliced
Corn tortillas, warmed
Tomato salsa
1. Season the cabrito with the allspice, cumin, and a generous amount of salt and pepper. Marinate at room temperature for 1 hour.
2. Build a wood fire in a grill and let it burn down to coals. Move about half of the coals to one side of the grill and maintain a small fire on the other side of the grill, so there will be additional hot coals to move under the goat as necessary. (Add more wood to the fire as needed.) Place the cabrito on the grill, about 8 inches above the coals. Grill for 1 to 3 hours (a longer grilling time creates a deeper smoky flavor and a crustier outer layer of meat), turning it every 20 minutes or so.
3. Heat the oven to 250 degrees. Wrap the grilled cabrito in foil, place in a roasting pan, and transfer to the oven. Cook for 2 to 3 hours, until the meat is falling off the bone. Remove the cabrito from the oven and let stand for about 15 minutes.
4. Using a fork, separate the meat from the bones and shred, reserving the juices in the foil packet. Place the shredded meat in a warmed serving dish and top with the juices, the cilantro, and sliced radishes. Serve the meat in warm corn tortillas, with salsa.
SERVES 4
COOKING NOTE
Goat can be ordered online at www.foxfirefarms.com and is sold in specialty and ethnic markets.
SERVING SUGGESTIONS
Moscow Mule (here), La Paloma (here), Wild Mushroom Quesadillas (here), Tomatoes Vinaigrette (here), Maida Heatter’s Cuban Black Beans and Rice (here), Beets in Lime Cream (here), Grapefruit Fluff (here), Caramel Custard (here)
JUNE 17, 2007: “FOOD: THE WAY WE EAT: THE YEAR OF THE GOAT,” BY PAULA DISBROWE.
—2007
ROASTED MARROW BONES
Sometimes a dish resonates so strongly with food writers that everyone feels the need to pay homage to it. The recipe for these roasted marrow bones, which were made famous by Fergus Henderson, the father of the nose-to-tail cooking movement of the early 2000s and the owner of St. John Restaurant in London, was published in the Times by me in 2003, in 2004 by Jonathan Reynolds, and most recently, in 2007, by Mark Bittman. What’s most remarkable is that each time the recipe (which also appears in Henderson’s book The Whole Beast) appeared in the Times, it was different! Mine had more parsley and capers. Reynolds’s version was heavy on oil. And Bittman’s was somewhere in the middle, the most judicious balance of brine, oil, and lemon juice—and that’s why I went with his.
———
8 to 12 center-cut beef or veal marrow bones, 3 inches long (3 to 4 pounds total)
1 cup tightly packed flat-leaf parsley leaves
2 small shallots, thinly sliced
2 teaspoons capers
1½ tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice
Flaky sea salt
At least four ½-inch-thick slices crusty bread, toasted
1. Heat the oven to 450 degrees. Put the bones cut side up on a foil-lined baking sheet or in an ovenproof skillet. Cook until the marrow is soft and has begun to separate from the bones, about 15 minutes. (Stop before the marrow begins to drizzle out.)
2. Meanwhile, combine the parsley, shallots, and capers in a small bowl. Just before the bones are ready, whisk together the olive oil and lemon juice, and drizzle the dressing over the parsley mixture until the leaves are just coated.
3. Put the roasted bones, parsley salad, salt, and toast on a large plate. To serve, scoop out the marrow, spread it on the toast, sprinkle with salt, and top with a bit of parsley salad.
SERVES 4
COOKING NOTE
Butchers and many supermarkets carry beef marrow bones, but veal marrow bones have to be ordered in advance from a butcher.
SERVING SUGGESTIONS
Potted Salmon (here), Scotch Eggs (here), Chestnut Soup (here), Roasted Squab with Chicken Liver Stuffing (here), Maida Heatter’s Preheated-Oven Popovers (here), Baked Mushrooms (here), Delicate Bread Pudding (here), Transparent Pudding (here), Snow Pudding (here)
OCTOBER 31, 2007: “THE MINIMALIST: A LITTLE BIT OF WORK AND A LOT OF SATISFACTION,” BY MARK BITTMAN. RECIPE ADAPTED FROM FERGUS HENDERSON, THE OWNER OF ST. JOHN RESTAURANT AND AUTHOR OF THE THE WHOLE BEAST: NOSE TO TAIL EATING.
—2007
PORK ARROSTO WITH PRUNES AND GRAPPA
Put this in your dinner party rotation. The dish doesn’t try too hard, but then brined pork, grappa, prunes, fresh herbs, and lemon don’t have to.
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For the Brine
1½ cups kosher salt
1⅓ cups sugar
8 cups water
One 4- to 5-bone center-cut pork loin roast (3 to 5 pounds)
For the Spice Rub
2 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
1½ teaspoons fennel seeds
1 tablespoon thyme leaves
1 tablespoon rosemary leaves
10 sage leaves
1½ tablespoons kosher salt
1 tablespoon freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons olive oil
For the Prunes
1¾ cups pitted plump prunes
1½ cups water
½ cup sugar
Juice of 2 lemons
2 bay leaves
Pinch of cracked black pepper
¼ cup grappa
Salt
1. To brine the meat, bring the salt, sugar, and water to a boil in a large pot, stirring until the salt and sugar dissolve. Transfer to a heatproof container and cool completely.
2. Cover the pork with the brine and refrigerate for 45 minutes, then drain and pat dry.
3. Set an oven rack in the center position and heat the oven to 400 degrees. To make the spice rub, mix together the garlic, fennel seeds, thyme, rosemary, sage, salt, and pepper on a cutting board, and finely chop with a chef’s knife. Pour the olive oil over the mixture. With your fingers pressing on the side of the knife, holding the knife at a slight angle, grind the herbs and spices by rocking the knife back and forth and pulling the mixture across the board. (Be careful not to cut yourself; the mixture is slippery.) Alternatively, grind the mixture in a mortar and pestle. The mixture should have the consistency of wet sand.
4. Rub the pork all over with the spice mixture and set in a roasting pan. Roast until the internal temperature registers 140 degrees on an instant-read thermometer for medium, between 1 and 1½ hours, depending on size. Let rest for 15 minutes.
5. Meanwhile, prepare the prunes: Combine the prunes, water, sugar, lemon juice, bay leaves, and black pepper in a medium saucepan, bring to a simmer, and simmer until the prunes just start to break apart, about 20 minutes. Add the grappa and simmer for 5 minutes more. Season to taste with salt and remove from the heat.
6. Slice the pork into chops. Serve topped with the prune sauce.
SERVES 4 TO 5
COOKING NOTE
When you cook the prunes in Step 5, they will look like they’re drowning in the liquid. Fear not: they’ll eventually soak up the grappa, and the sauce will tighten once it sits for a bit.
SERVING SUGGESTIONS
Kir Royale 38 (here), Ricotta Crostini with Fresh Thyme and Dried Oregano (here), Fennel and Apple Salad with Juniper (here), Risotto with Lemon and Crème Fraîche (here), Red Wine Risotto (here), The Most Voluptuous Cauliflower (here), Steamed Fennel with Red Pepper Oil (here), Sautéed Potatoes with Parsley (here), Evelyn Sharpe’s French Chocolate Cake (here), Lucas Schoormans’s Lemon Tart (here)
JANUARY 6, 2008: “THE WAY WE EAT: THE GRAPES OF WRATH,” BY ALEKSANDRA CRAPANZANO. RECIPE ADAPTED FROM URBAN ITALIAN, BY ANDREW CARMELLINI AND GWEN HYMAN.
—2008
COCIDO (CHICKPEA, SPARERIB, AND CHORIZO STEW)
Although the catch-all word for Spanish stew is now cocido, it used to be olla poderida: olla means “pot” and poder means “strength.” This strong pot comes from Alexandra Raij, who was once the chef at Tía Pol, the best-food-per-square-foot Spanish restaurant in New York. Raij’s stew braids together chickpeas, bacon, spareribs, and chorizo, and it is probably best eaten on the coldest day in January. (Don’t plan any strenuous activities for after dinner.) Her fried chickpeas are here, and her rebujito, a refreshing cocktail, is here.
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¾ pound (about 1½ cups) dried chickpeas, rinsed, picked over, and soaked overnight in water to cover by 2 inches
1 large leek
1½ pounds slab bacon, cut into 2 large pieces, rind peeled off
2 pounds baby back ribs, cut into individual ribs (each about 4 inches long)
1 small smoked ham hock (about 6 ounces), 2-ounce piece of serrano ham, or 2-ounce prosciutto end
1 medium yellow onion, unpeeled
½ bulb garlic (halved horizontally), unpeeled
1 carrot, peeled and cut in half
1½ teaspoons sweet Spanish smoked paprika (pimentón)
1 tablespoon plus ¾ teaspoon kosher salt, or more to taste
1 sprig fresh thyme or 1 teaspoon dried thyme
1 bay leaf
About 7½ cups water
¾ pound Spanish chorizo
Extra virgin olive oil for drizzling
Crusty bread for serving (optional)
1. Drain the chickpeas and place in a large stockpot. Keeping the root end intact, trim the leek of its roots and dark green leaves. Slice lengthwise in half, submerge in cold water, and rinse thoroughly. Add to the stockpot, along with the bacon, baby back ribs, ham hock, onion, garlic, carrot, paprika, salt, thyme, and bay leaf. Cover with water by 2 inches, about 6 cups, and bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer, partially covered, for 1 hour, occasionally skimming the foam.
2. Add 1 cup cold water to the stew and simmer, partially covered, for 45 minutes.
3. Add ½ cup cold water and the chorizo, return to a low simmer, and cook until all the ingredients are tender, about 30 minutes more.
4. Using a slotted spoon and kitchen tongs, carefully remove the meats, garlic, bay leaf, thyme sprig, onion, carrot, and leek from the pot; discard the ham hock, garlic, bay leaf, and thyme sprig, if you used one. When the remaining vegetables are cool enough to handle, peel the onion and puree in a blender with the carrot, leek, ¾ cup of the chickpeas, and 1 cup of the cooking liquid.
5. Cut the bacon into 2-inch pieces and the chorizo into 1-inch pieces. Return the meats and vegetable puree to the stockpot and stir gently to combine. Reheat, and adjust the salt if necessary.
6. Ladle the stew into large soup plates and drizzle with extra virgin olive oil. If desired, serve with crusty bread for sopping up the sauce.
SERVES 4 TO 6
COOKING NOTES
If you haven’t soaked the chickpeas overnight here’s a quick cheat: place them in a pot, cover with 2 inches of cold water, and bring to a boil, then lower the heat, cover, and simmer for 15 minutes.
I think this stew is better the next day, after it’s had time to relax. Overnight chilling also gives you a chance to remove the excess fat that rises to the top.
SERVING SUGGESTIONS
Sangria (here), Pan con Tomate (here), Catalan Tortilla with Aioli (here), Chorizo Revueltos (Scrambled Eggs with Chorizo; here), Spanish Cream (here), Toasts with Chocolate, Olive Oil, and Sea Salt (here)
JANUARY 30, 2008: “ONE POT,” BY ELAINE LOUIE. RECIPE ADAPTED FROM ALEXANDRA RAIJ, THE CO-OWNER OF TÎA POL IN NEW YORK CITY.
—2008
SHORT RIBS WITH COFFEE AND CHILES
These earthy, spicy short ribs could serve as a devastating rebuke to all the sweet, fatty short ribs of yore—but there’s a place for both, namely at my table. I like this kind atop a pile of polenta.
———
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
4 large or 8 small beef short ribs
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 large carrot, peeled and chopped
1 large onion, chopped
3 cloves garlic, chopped
Pinch of sugar
1 dried pasilla chile, stemmed, seeded, and minced
1 dried chipotle chile, stemmed, seeded, and minced
1 cup dry red wine
1 cup strong coffee
1. Drizzle the oil into a heavy pot and brown the ribs well over medium heat, adjusting the heat as necessary to get a dark crust. Take your time, and season the ribs with salt and pepper as they cook. Remove them to a plate. (If there are burnt bits in the pot, wipe them out using a paper towel, then add 1 tablespoon oil and set on the stove again.) Turn the heat to low.
2. Add the carrot, onion, garlic, sugar, and chiles to the pot and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onions are soft, about 15 minutes.
3. Add the wine and coffee and reduce by about half over high heat. Return the ribs to the pot, cover, and cook over low heat (or in a 300-degree oven) for 2 to 3 hours, until very tender—beyond when the meat falls off the bone—turning every hour or so. Taste and adjust the seasoning.
SERVES 4 TO 8
COOKING NOTE
I added a carrot and a little sugar to the recipe.
SERVING SUGGESTIONS
Soupe à l’Ail (Garlic Soup; here), Oyster Chowder (here), Soft Polenta (here), Larded Potatoes à la New York Times (here), Watercress Salad (here), Roasted Cauliflower (here), Shredded Brussels Sprouts with Bacon and Pine Nuts (here), Savory Bread Pudding (here), Molasses Cup Cakes with Lemon Icing (here), Polish Jewish Plum Cake (here), Wine-Stewed Prunes and Mascarpone (here)
PERIOD DETAIL
The first short ribs recipe I could find was in 1947, and they were braised rather joylessly with onion, garlic, bay leaf, and water.
FEBRUARY 13, 2008: “THE MINIMALIST: COAXING EXOTIC FLAVOR FROM FAMILIAR ELEMENTS,” BY MARK BITTMAN.
—2008
SPRING LAMB SALAD WITH PEA SHOOTS AND SUGAR SNAP PEAS
Filled with nuance and hard-to-find specialty items, this salad recipe comes from a chef. So embark on it when you want to challenge yourself. You can make it in lots of stages, none very difficult.
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1 tablespoon coriander seeds
1 tablespoon black peppercorns
1 side of a lamb belly
¾ cup kosher salt (Diamond Crystal, not Morton), plus more for seasoning
Grated zest of 1 orange
Grated zest of 1 lemon, preferably a Meyer lemon
6 cups plus 5 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
15 cloves garlic, unpeeled
2 small shallots, thinly sliced
3 sprigs thyme
2½ tablespoons lemon juice, preferably Meyer lemon juice
Freshly ground black pepper
6 ounces soft goat cheese
½ cup crème fraîche
2 tablespoons finely chopped preserved lemon (flesh and rind), seeds removed
1 pound sugar snap peas
3 cups densely packed pea shoots
5 cups densely packed pea greens
30 small basil leaves, left whole, or 10 large basil leaves, thinly sliced
6 red shiso leaves, very thinly sliced (optional)
1. Toast the coriander seeds and black peppercorns in a small heavy skillet over medium heat for about 5 minutes, shaking occasionally, until fragrant and lightly browned. (Be careful not to burn them.) Let cool.
2. Coarsely crush the toasted spices using a spice/coffee grinder or mortar and pestle. Rub the lamb belly all over with the spices, salt, and citrus zests. Place in a baking dish, cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate for at least 12 hours or overnight.
3. Remove the lamb belly from the refrigerator and heat the oven to 275 degrees. Heat 6 cups olive oil to 160 degrees in a heavy saucepan over medium-low heat. Turn off the heat, add the garlic, shallots, and thyme, and let the oil infuse for 20 minutes.
4. Meanwhile, wipe as much of the salt mixture off the lamb belly as you can; wipe out the baking dish and return the lamb belly to it. Discard the thyme sprigs and pour the infused oil, with the garlic and shallots, over the lamb belly. Cover the dish, place on a rimmed baking sheet, and cook in the oven for 3 to 4 hours, until a cake tester slides in and out of the belly with little resistance. Remove from the oven.
5. When it is cool enough to handle, remove the lamb belly from the oil (discard the oil), and gently slide out all of the bones. Put the belly on a baking sheet, cover with another baking sheet, and wrap the entire thing in plastic wrap. Place a weight on top and refrigerate for at least 6 hours, and up to 12 hours.
6. To prepare the rest of the salad, whisk together the lemon juice and remaining 5 tablespoons olive oil in a small bowl and season with salt and pepper. Set aside.
7. Using an electric mixer, whip the goat cheese in a bowl at medium speed for 2 minutes. Fold in the crème fraîche and preserved lemon, and set aside.
8. Blanch the sugar snaps in a large pot of boiling salted water for 30 seconds; drain and immerse in ice water. Drain well and set aside.
9. Thirty minutes before serving, thinly slice the lamb belly and bring it to room temperature.
10. Set a large heavy skillet over medium heat. Working in batches, add the slices of lamb belly and cook until browned and crisp on both sides, about 3 minutes per side. Drain on paper towels.
11. Toss the pea shoots, pea greens, and sugar snap peas with the dressing and season with salt and pepper to taste. Run a thick smear of the goat cheese mixture across the center of each plate and arrange some of the salad and 5 to 6 slices of lamb belly on top. Sprinkle with the basil and shiso, if using.
SERVES 8 TO 10 AS A FIRST COURSE OR LUNCH
COOKING NOTES
Lamb belly can be found at butcher shops and ethnic markets. If you can’t find it, boneless lamb shoulder can be substituted (about 3 pounds). Salt the shoulder whole, then cut into large cubes, poach the cubes in oil, and break them into serving-sized pieces to fry.
Preserved lemons are available in Middle Eastern and specialty markets, or at www.kalustyans.com. To make your own, see here (you can omit the cardamom).
Rhubarb Bellini (here), White Gazpacho with Almonds and Grapes (here), Hearth’s Fava Bean Salad (here), Jean Yves Legarve’s Spaghetti with Lemon and Asparagus Sauce (here), Rhubarb-Strawberry Mousse (here), Strawberry Ice Cream (here)
MAY 4, 2008: “THE NEW STAPLES,” BY MERRILL STUBBS. RECIPE ADAPTED FROM RESTO IN NEW YORK CITY.
—2008
EL PARIAN’S CARNE ASADA (GRILLED BEEF)
“If you were a woman living on a rancho in southern California in the nineteenth century, you would have found yourself short on ‘me’ time,” Jennifer Steinhauer, the Times Los Angeles bureau chief, wrote. “There was corn to grind, butter to churn, candles to make, and piles of excessively long skirts to launder in streams. But the payoff for all this pastoral toil was the occasional feast of carne asada, meat grilled over a pit, yielding a tender, salty treat.
“Like many of the foodstuffs of early California, carne asada remains a vital player in kitchens here. This is in no small part thanks to the contributions of Mexican immigrants, who have added dimensions to its presentation and have spread the carnivorous love that is consummated between meat and an extremely hot grill.”
This recipe comes from El Parian restaurant in Los Angeles (the sauce is from Diana Kennedy, the grande dame of Mexican cooking). Do your best to track down flap meat, a cut from the loin, which may require a few calls around to butcher shops. Mexican butcher shops tend to have it on hand.
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2 tablespoons salt
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
¼ teaspoon garlic powder
2 pounds flap steak
2 limes, quartered
2 avocados, peeled, pitted, and thinly sliced
Cooked black beans for serving (optional)
1 cup Oaxacan Chile Pasilla Sauce (recipe follows; optional)
About 12 small corn tortillas (optional)
1. Prepare a charcoal or gas grill. Combine the salt, pepper, and garlic powder in a small bowl.
2. When the grill is very hot, place the meat on the grill, fat side down. Sprinkle half of the salt mixture over the meat and cook until nicely browned, 6 to 9 minutes. Flip, sprinkle the remaining salt mixture over the meat, and cook for another 6 to 9 minutes, or until the internal temperature registers 140 degrees on an instant-read thermometer. Let rest for a few minutes.
3. Thinly slice the meat against the grain and serve with the lime wedges and avocado slices, and black beans, Oaxacan pasilla sauce, and tortillas if you choose.
SERVES 4 TO 6
OAXACAN CHILE PASILLA SAUCE
½ pound tomatillos, husked, rinsed, and quartered
3 large cloves garlic, unpeeled
1 dried pasilla chile
½ teaspoon sea salt, or to taste
1. Place the tomatillo quarters in a medium saucepan and add enough water to cover them halfway. Cover and simmer over medium heat until very soft, about 10 minutes. Drain, reserving ½ cup of the cooking water (you may have slightly less—use what you have).
2. Set a cast-iron skillet over high heat. Add the garlic and roast, turning, until the skin has blackened on all sides, 8 to 10 minutes. Meanwhile, blacken the chile in the same skillet, 1 to 2 minutes per side. Remove from the pan.
3. Rinse the chile briefly in cold water, and break half of it into small pieces over a blender, removing the seeds and veins. (For intense heat, you can add the whole chile—but start with half and add more to taste.) Peel the garlic and add it to the blender, along with the reserved cooking liquid and ½ teaspoon salt. Blend until smooth. Add the cooked tomatillos and pulse briefly. The sauce should have a medium consistency. If it seems too thick, add more water; it will thicken as it sits. Taste and adjust the seasoning.
MAKES ABOUT 1 CUP
Pasilla chiles are available at www.kalustyans.com and some supermarkets.
The taco ingredients are listed as optional. I say they’re mandatory, as is the accompanying cold beer.
Steinhauer wrote, “If you cannot find flap meat, substitute hanger or skirt steak and cook for about the same amount of time, or until it reaches 140 degrees.”
If you don’t have a grill, you can use a cast-iron skillet or grill pan. Turn on your hood fan!
SERVING SUGGESTIONS
A cold beer, and maybe Guacamole Tostadas (here) and Mango Ice Cream (here)
JULY 27, 2008: “THE WAY WE EAT: CARNE KNOWLEDGE,” BY JENNIFER STEINHAUER. CARNE ASADA RECIPE ADAPTED FROM EL PARIAN IN LOS ANGELES; OAXACAN CHILE PASILLA SAUCE ADAPTED FROM THE ART OF MEXICAN COOKING, BY DIANA KENNEDY.
—2008
APPLE CITY WORLD-CHAMPION BABY BACK RIBS
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For the Magic Dust Rub
2 tablespoons sweet Spanish smoked paprika (pimentón)
2 tablespoons kosher salt
1 tablespoon sugar
1½ teaspoons dry mustard
1 tablespoon chili powder
1 tablespoon ground cumin
1½ teaspoons freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon garlic powder
1½ teaspoons cayenne pepper
For the Ribs
Two 2- to 3-pound racks baby back ribs
Vegetable oil
2 tablespoons applewood dust or chips
1 cup apple cider or apple juice
1 cup water
1 teaspoon kosher salt
For the Barbecue Sauce
1 cup ketchup
2⅓ cups seasoned rice vinegar
1½ cups apple cider or apple juice
1¼ cups cider vinegar
1½ cups packed dark brown sugar
1¼ cups Worcestershire or soy sauce
2 teaspoons prepared Colman’s mustard
3¼ teaspoons garlic powder
1¼ teaspoons freshly ground white pepper
1 teaspoon cayenne pepper
1⅓ cups minced cooked bacon
1⅓ cups finely grated peeled apples
1⅓ cups finely grated onions
1. Several hours, or at least 30 minutes before cooking, make the rub: Combine all the ingredients in a small bowl. Cut the racks of ribs in half, brush with oil, and sprinkle all sides with about 6 tablespoons of the magic dust.
2. Heat the oven to 300 degrees. Place a stovetop smoker or homemade smoker (see Cooking Note) on a burner. Place the wood dust on the bottom of the smoker, toward the center. Cover with the drip pan. Set the grate over the drip pan and place the ribs on the rack, cutting them as needed to fit in one layer. Cover with a lid or foil, making sure there is at least 1 inch between the lid and the ribs. Turn the heat to high. When smoke appears, lower the heat to medium-high and smoke for 35 minutes.
3. Meanwhile, make the barbecue sauce: Combine all the ingredients except the apples and onions in a medium pot and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Stir in the apples and onions, reduce the heat, and simmer uncovered, stirring often, until slightly thickened, 15 to 20 minutes. Remove from the heat. (The sauce will keep for up to 2 weeks in the refrigerator.)
4. Line a large rimmed baking sheet with heavy-duty foil. Add the cider, water, and salt. Set a rack over the pan. Transfer the ribs to the rack and cook until the meat shrinks away from the ends and comes easily off the bone, about 1½ hours.
5. Brush the ribs on all sides with the barbecue sauce and cook for 15 minutes more. Serve with more sauce on the side.
SERVES 4 TO 6
Jill Santopietro noted, “Camerons stovetop smokers and ground wood chips can be purchased at many cooking stores or at www.cameronscookware.com. To make a smoker, line the inside of a large wok with heavy foil. Place the wood chips in the wok. Make a drip pan by placing a heavy piece of foil over both the chips and the bottom of the wok. (Make sure it doesn’t rise up the sides.) Set a 10- to 11-inch round baking rack over the drip pan. Use another piece of heavy foil as a lid.”
SERVING SUGGESTIONS
Ginger Lemonade (here), Jay Grelen’s Southern Iced Tea (here), Spoonbread’s Potato Salad (here), Docks Coleslaw (here), Watermelon and Tomato Salad (here), Summer Pudding (here), Brownies (here)
SEPTEMBER 12, 2008: “THE WAY WE EAT: THANK YOU FOR SMOKING,” BY JILL SANTOPIETRO. RECIPE ADAPTED FROM PEACE, LOVE, AND BARBECUE, BY MIKE MILLS AND AMY MILLS TUNNICLIFFE.
—2008
BACON EXPLOSION
In early 2009, the New York Times was briefly taken over by a college frat. . . .
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2 pounds thick-sliced bacon
3 tablespoons Basic Rub for Barbecue (see here)
1½ pounds Italian sausage, casings removed
¾ cup bottled barbecue sauce
1. Using 10 slices of bacon, weave a square lattice like that on top of a pie: Place 5 slices side by side on a large sheet of aluminum foil, sides touching. Place another strip of bacon across one end, perpendicular to the other strips. Fold the first, third, and fifth bacon strips back over this strip, then place another strip next to it. Unfold the first, third, and fifth strips, and fold back the second and fourth strips. Repeat with the remaining bacon until all 10 strips are tightly woven.
2. Heat the oven to 225 degrees or light a fire in an outdoor smoker. Place the remaining bacon in a large skillet and cook until crisp. Drain on paper towels.
3. Meanwhile, sprinkle the bacon weave with 1 tablespoon barbecue rub. Spread the sausage evenly over the bacon lattice, pressing it to the edges.
4. Crumble the fried bacon into bite-sized pieces. Sprinkle on top of the sausage. Drizzle with ½ cup barbecue sauce and sprinkle with another tablespoon of barbecue rub.
5. Very carefully separate the front edge of the sausage layer from the bacon weave and roll the sausage into a compact log. The bacon weave should stay where it is, flat. Press the sausage roll to remove any air pockets, and pinch together the seams and ends. Roll the sausage toward you, this time with the bacon weave, until it is completely wrapped. The roll should be 2 to 3 inches thick. Turn it so the seam faces down. Sprinkle with the remaining tablespoon of barbecue rub.
6. Place the roll on a baking sheet in the oven or in a smoker and cook until the internal temperature registers 165 degrees on an instant-read thermometer, about 1 hour per inch of thickness.
7. Glaze the roll with the remaining ¼ cup barbecue sauce. To serve, slice into ¼ to ½-inch rounds.
SERVES 10 OR MORE
SERVING SUGGESTIONS
Beer, Guacamole Tostadas (here), Chocolate Quakes (here)
JANUARY 28, 2009: “TAKE BACON. ADD SAUSAGE. BLOG,” BY DAMON DARLIN. RECIPE ADAPTED FROM JASON DAY AND AARON CHRONISTER.
—2009