SANDWICHES, PIZZA, AND SAVORY PIES8 SANDWICHES, PIZZA, AND SAVORY PIES
| —1870s— | • Welsh Rarebit (here) and its bedfellows, Scotch Woodcock (here), Scotch Rarebit, and Golden Buck. |
| —1902— | • Open-faced creamed mushroom sandwiches: delicious. |
| —1905— | • Lombardi’s, the first pizzeria in America, opens in New York City. |
| —1910s— | • Tea sandwiches. |
| —1930— | • The comic strip Blondie debuts; Dagwood is always making giant sandwiches. |
| —1944— | • Jane Holt explains what pizza is: “a pie made from a yeast dough and filled with any number of different centers, each one containing tomatoes. Cheese, mushrooms, anchovies, capers, onions, and so on may be used.” |
| —1945— | • A story on how to make pizza appears. |
| —1962— | • Open-Faced Tomato Sandwich (here). |
| —1964— | • The lobster roll here is from 1970, but Craig Claiborne had also published a recipe six years earlier. |
| —1970s— | • There is no quiche in this book, but this was the decade for it. |
| —1980— | • George Germon and Johanne Killeen grill a pizza; the world changes. |
| —1990s— | • Croque-Monsieur (here) rides the bistro wave. • Tarte Flambée (here) tries for fame but comes up short. |
| —1998— | • Jason and Jennifer Denton open ’ino, the first serious paninoteca in New York City. |
| —2002— | • Nancy Silverton’s Sandwich Book comes out. |
| —2005— | • Franny’s Clam Pizza (here). |
| —2008— | • Banh mi is the new pho. |
| —2009— | • The breakfast pizza (here) catches on. • The New York Times and New York magazine rate New York City’s pizza joints. Kesté and Una Pizza Napoletana are on top. |
SANDWICHES, PIZZA, AND SAVORY PIES
I decided to have a chapter that blended sandwiches with pizzas and other savory tarts because foods that depend heavily on a dough—no matter what its form—share a common goal. Doughs, whether bread or pastry, are there to contain the rest of the ingredients. Often they provide texture (crispness in the Franny’s Clam Pizza here, delicacy in the Foie Gras and Jam Sandwiches here) and substance (heft in the Welsh Rarebit here, lightness in the Lobster Roll here). In the very best examples, the bread itself provides important flavor, like the rye-scented dough used in the Chez Panisse Calzone, here.
Sandwiches and pizzas don’t need to have great ambitions. They’re something you make when you aren’t in the mood to assemble a multidish meal. The most memorable are often so easy they don’t even require a written recipe—for instance, this tomato sandwich from Craig Claiborne, who merely described the recipe to Harold Faber, his Times colleague. Faber wrote to me:
Centuries ago when I worked on 43rd Street, I remember Craig telling me that one of his favorite summer meals was a simple tomato sandwich, made with slices of a vine-ripened tomato, with Hellmann’s mayonnaise on untoasted bread—no salt, no pepper, no lettuce, nothing else. I don’t know if he ever put this in one of his cookbooks. I do know, however, that it is a magnificent sandwich that I enjoy repeatedly during the summer.
Sandwiches
’ino’s Tuna with Black Olive Pesto Panini
Pizza, Calzone, and a Savory Pie
Pizza with Caramelized Onions, Figs, Bacon, and Blue Cheese
Anita Sheldon’s Torta di Spinaci
Sandwiches, Pizza, Etc., with Cheese
Anita Sheldon’s Torta di Spinaci
Pizza with Caramelized Onions, Figs, Bacon, and Blue Cheese
Open-Faced Sandwiches
Welsh rarebit, surprisingly underappreciated here in the land of grilled cheese, is warm toasted bread smothered with a seasoned—and sometimes spiked—cheese sauce.
Although I included this 1875 recipe because it offers precise measurements, a story that ran in 1892 contained much more conviction about the dish (sometimes called Welsh rabbit). Its author declared, “The merits of the Welsh rarebit lie in its hasty making and hot serving.” You melt cheese—“any domestic full-cream cheese that is well ripened is best for the purpose, and the dried layer next to the rind is quite excellent”—with butter until smooth and emulsified, then season the sauce with mustard, salt, and black pepper or cayenne and quickly pour it over hot toasts.
“There are recipes and individuals that call for a small quantity of ale, beer, or port wine,” the writer continued, “but, according to an accepted English authority, when such ingredients are added the mixture is no longer a Welsh but a Scotch rarebit, a great national distinction based on a very little difference.” So perhaps this recipe, which contains ale or port, is Scotch rarebit. (There is also Golden Buck, a rarebit seasoned with Worcestershire and Tabasco and crowned with a poached egg; Yorkshire Buck, rarebit served on Yorkshire pudding with a poached egg; and English Monkey, made with bread crumbs and Worcestershire.)
Nowhere near finished, the writer waxed on about the details of the toast making: “If the room in which the cooking takes place has an open fireplace, with a great deal of trouble and much scorching of face and hands, the bread toasting can be accomplished there with the assistance of a long toasting fork. But it is far better to have the cook below stairs toast and butter the slices of bread and send them up in a covered metal hot-water dish.” Yes, infinitely preferable to have your servant scorch her face and hands.
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4 tablespoons unsalted butter
½ pound medium-aged cheddar cheese, grated
2 ounces Gruyère cheese, grated
½ teaspoon Colman’s prepared mustard
¼ cup dark English ale or port
Salt
Cayenne pepper
8 slices country bread, toasted
Melt the butter in a double boiler. Add the cheeses and whisk until thoroughly melted and blended. Stir in the mustard and ale and season with salt and cayenne. Spoon the sauce over the warm pieces of toast.
SERVES 4 FOR LUNCH, 8 AS A FIRST COURSE
COOKING NOTE
I added cayenne to the recipe.
SERVING SUGGESTIONS
Tomato Soup I (here), Tomato Soup II (here), Salade à la Romaine (here), Apple Dumplings (here), Teddie’s Apple Cake (here)
DECEMBER 19, 1875: “THE HOUSEHOLD.” RECIPE SIGNED OLIVIA.
—1875
ASPARAGUS ROLLS
This is like a vegetarian sloppy Joe, and it’s a recipe that cropped up a few times in the nineteenth-century archive. You fold blanched asparagus into a creamy béchamel scented with mace and spoon it onto toasted buns.
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Salt
1 pound thick asparagus, trimmed
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
2 cups whole milk, plus more if needed
2 large egg yolks
Freshly ground black pepper
Freshly grated nutmeg
A pinch of ground mace
4 small soft rolls or toast points
1. Bring a large pot of generously salted water to a boil. Add the asparagus and cook until just tender. Transfer to a bowl of ice water to stop the cooking, then drain and pat dry. Cut the spears diagonally into ¾-inch-long pieces.
2. Melt the butter in a medium saucepan over medium heat. When it’s foamy, whisk in the flour and cook for 1 minute. Gradually add the milk, whisking until smooth. Bring to a boil and cook, whisking, for 1 minute. Off the heat, whisk in the egg yolks and season with salt, pepper, nutmeg, and mace. Thin with milk if needed. Fold in the asparagus and warm through.
3. If using rolls, halve them and scoop out the centers. Arrange the rolls or toast points on 4 plates. Spoon the asparagus and sauce on top.
SERVES 4 AS A FIRST COURSE OR PART OF LUNCH
SERVING SUGGESTIONS
Chilled English Pea–Mint Soup (here), Vichyssoise à la Ritz (here), Deviled Crabs (here), Scallops with Pea Puree (here), Baked Flounder (here), Sugar Snap Peas with Horseradish (here), Almond Custard Cake (here)
MAY 13, 1877: “RECEIPTS FOR THE TABLE.” RECIPE SIGNED AUNT ADDIE.
—1877
SCOTCH WOODCOCK
“Cool evenings, the chafing dish and the amateur cook unite forces with wonderful results,” wrote an unidentified columnist in the Times about Scotch woodcock—toast with anchovies and cream sauce, a relative of the open-faced sandwich Welsh rarebit (here). “Men particularly love this dainty style of cooking, and they employ their talents with pleasure on Welsh rarebits, oysters, terrapin, and even candy.” Although there weren’t a whole lot of anecdotes backing up this claim—in fact, there were none—it’s probably not coincidental that the modern-day equivalent of a chafing dish, the grill, is also a tool that encourages macho showmanship. The writer continued, “Illustrious men have been proud to acknowledge a creation in gastrinomia [sic]. After Hume left off writing history, he created a soup that he valued more highly than his books.” The soup was sheep’s-head broth—and history gives the nod to Hume’s books.
Because you’d kill me if I called for a chafing dish—or because I’m a woman—I’ve adapted the recipe to toasters and saucepans.
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4 anchovy fillets, drained
4 small slices country bread
Softened unsalted butter
3 large egg yolks
½ cup heavy cream
Salt
1. Mash the anchovies in a mortar and pestle. Toast the bread, and spread it generously with butter, then the anchovy paste. Keep warm.
2. Whisk together the yolks and cream in a small heavy saucepan over medium-low heat. The mixture will get foamy, then thicken enough to coat the back of a spoon. Remove from the heat and season lightly with salt.
3. Arrange the toasts on 2 plates. Spoon the cream sauce on top.
SERVES 2 AS A LIGHT LUNCH, 4 AS A FIRST COURSE
SERVING SUGGESTIONS
Park Avenue Cocktail (here), Al Forno’s Roasted Asparagus (here), Chiffonade Salad (here), Steamed Lemon Pudding (here)
NOVEMBER 8, 1892: “THE USEFUL CHAFING DISH: NO WELL-ORDERED FAMILY SHOULD BE WITHOUT ONE.”
—1892
CHEESE CRUSTS
Cheese crusts are what we now call cheese toasts. This recipe—it’s actually more of a technique—appeared in an article titled “What Shall We Eat Today? Wherewith Shall Our Hunger Be Stayed?” and was part of a menu for “noonday breakfast, or for the children’s dinner” that included cream of tomato soup—still the traditional accompaniment—as well as some dishes that didn’t make the modern-day kids’ menu: sweet omelet with jelly, ragout of small birds with polenta, and cod’s head with pickle sauce.
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“These are small slices of bread trimmed free from crusts, buttered a little, seasoned with salt and pepper, and covered with a little heap of grated cheese; a bit of butter on the top of the cheese makes it brown quicker. Care must be taken lightly to brown the crusts without burning them. They make a most appetizing accompaniment for any green salad which is plentiful at this season.”
SERVING SUGGESTIONS
Tomato Soup I (here), Tomato Soup II (here), Green Goddess Salad (here), Chocolate Pudding (here)
FEBRUARY 16, 1896: “WHAT SHALL WE EAT TODAY? WHEREWITH SHALL OUR HUNGER BE STAYED?” BY JULIET CORSON.
—1896
CLUB SANDWICH
ORIGINAL RECIPE
Go to the club.
Drink six toasts.
Eat a slice of meat.
Drink six more toasts.
JANUARY 13, 1907: “A FEW RECIPES.”
—1907
OPEN-FACED TOMATO SANDWICH
This sandwich is too simple to screw up, but if you want it to be extra good, then thick, juicy slices of tomato and top-quality anchovies are key. It’s essentially a double cheese melt, with slices of mozzarella and gratings of Parmesan encasing a layer of tomatoes, oregano, and anchovy.
If you want to reengineer the sandwich as an hors d’oeuvre, simply layer the toppings on slices of baguette.
———
6 slices firm-textured sandwich bread
Unsalted butter, softened, for spreading
1 ball fresh mozzarella cheese (about 1 pound), thinly sliced
2 large firm but ripe tomatoes
½ teaspoon crumbled dried oregano
⅛ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon unsalted butter, melted
Salt
18 anchovy fillets
Freshly grated Parmesan cheese (about 1½ cups)
Chopped flat-leaf parsley for garnish (optional)
1. Heat the broiler. Spread one side of each slice of bread with softened butter. Cover each with the sliced mozzarella cheese (3 to 4 slices for each piece of bread).
2. Cut the tomatoes into ½-inch-thick slices. Place 1 of the largest slices on each sandwich. (Sprinkle the leftover tomato slices with salt and pepper and eat while you finish the sandwiches.)
3. Combine the oregano, black pepper, and butter. Brush over the tomato slices. Sprinkle with salt and drape 3 anchovies on each sandwich. Cover with grated Parmesan cheese (about 3 to 4 tablespoons for each sandwich).
4. Place under the broiler, about 6 inches from the heating element, until the cheese has melted and is bubbly, 3 to 5 minutes. Serve hot, garnished with parsley, if desired.
SERVES 6
SERVING SUGGESTIONS
Grapefruit Wine (here), Tom’s Chilled Cucumber Soup (here), Oyster Chowder (here), Basic Corn Chowder (here), Ventresca Tuna Salad (here), Petit Beurre Cookies (here)
AUGUST 9, 1964: “PRIME TIME FOR TOMATOES,” BY CRAIG CLAIBORNE.
—1964
An unnamed Times columnist wrote in 1892, “The raison d’être for the lobster, no matter what opinion the gawky thing may hold on its cause for existence, is to gratify and please the human palate, no matter how much it may displease the human stomach.”
This lobster roll pleases the human palate very much. As a general life rule, buttering and toasting the buns makes all the difference.
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8 hot dog buns
4 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
3 cups (1 to 1½ pounds) cooked lobster meat cut into bite-sized pieces
¾ to 1 cup mayonnaise
½ cup minced heart of celery
1 small clove garlic, minced
2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil or ½ teaspoon dried basil
1 tablespoon chopped flat-leaf parsley
¼ cup finely chopped scallions
Tabasco sauce
Fresh lemon juice
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1. Heat the oven to 400 degrees. Split the buns and arrange them split side up in a baking dish. Brush them with the butter and bake until lightly brown, about 5 minutes. Remove from the oven and set aside.
2. Combine the lobster, mayonnaise, celery, garlic, basil, parsley, scallions, Tabasco sauce to taste, lemon juice to taste, and salt and pepper to taste. Blend well.
3. Spoon equal parts of the filling onto the split buns.
SERVES 8
SERVING SUGGESTIONS
Tom’s Chilled Cucumber Soup (here), Thomas Keller’s Gazpacho (here), Docks Coleslaw (here), Saratoga Potatoes (here), Summer Pudding (here), Flat-and-Chewy Chocolate Chip Cookies (here)
JUNE 21, 1970: “PATRIOTS’ SNACK,” BY CRAIG CLAIBORNE.
—1970
ANITA SHELDON’S TORTA DI SPINACI
This is a great Sunday dinner dish. Elegant it’s not, but not everything needs to be. There is one detail that will make or break the recipe: you must squeeze every last drop of liquid from the cooked spinach before chopping it, or you’ll end up with a soggy torta. So, just when you think you’ve extracted the last molecule of water, squeeze it some more.
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For the Pastry
3 cups all-purpose flour
¾ teaspoon salt
½ pound (2 sticks) unsalted butter, cut into pieces
1 large egg yolk
Approximately 3 tablespoons water
For the Filling
3 tablespoons olive oil
2 large onions, finely chopped
1¾ pounds fresh spinach, trimmed and washed well, or two 10-ounce packages frozen chopped spinach
Three 1-inch-thick smoked pork chops or pork loin (about 1 pound), any fat and bones removed and meat diced, or ½ pound bacon, diced
1½ cups freshly grated Parmesan cheese (about 5 ounces)
1 cup (8 ounces) ricotta cheese
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
4 large eggs, lightly beaten
1 large egg white, lightly beaten
1. To make the pastry, place the flour, salt, and butter in a bowl. With a pastry blender, 2 knives, or your fingertips, work the butter into the flour until the mixture resembles coarse oatmeal.
2. Mix the egg yolk with 3 tablespoons water and sprinkle over the mixture. Stir with a fork, adding only enough extra water to make a dough that just clings together. Divide the dough in half and form into 2 disks. Wrap each one in wax paper and chill briefly.
3. Meanwhile, prepare the filling: Heat the oil in a large skillet and sauté the onions until tender but not browned. Set aside.
4. If using fresh spinach, place the washed spinach leaves, with just the water that clings, in a large saucepan, cover tightly, and cook until the leaves wilt. Drain well and let cool enough to touch. In batches, gather the leaves in your palm and press out all the liquid by squeezing as firmly as possible. Chop the spinach. Or, if using frozen spinach, cook according to the package directions; drain well, cool, and squeeze dry.
5. Combine the chopped spinach and onions in a bowl and let cool completely, then add the diced smoked pork, Parmesan cheese, ricotta, salt and pepper to taste, and lightly beaten eggs.
6. Heat the oven to 425 degrees. Roll out half the pastry on a lightly floured work surface into 12-inch circle and line a 10-inch pie plate with it. Brush the bottom and sides of the shell with the lightly beaten egg white. Pour in the filling.
7. Roll out the remaining pastry and cover the filling. Trim, seal, and crimp the edges. Make a steam hole and if you’re up for it place leaves, cut from the pastry scraps, around the hole (not over it).
8. Bake for 40 to 50 minutes, or until the pastry is golden and done. Let stand for 10 to 15 minutes before cutting.
SERVES 8 TO 10
COOKING NOTES
The torta can be baked early in the day and reheated in a 375-degree oven. Cover loosely with foil to prevent overbrowning.
After the torta has cooled, if you wrap it well in aluminum foil, it will keep in the freezer for up to 2 months. Allow to thaw at room temperature for 3 hours and then let it finish thawing and reheat in a 375-degree oven for about 1 hour.
SERVING SUGGESTIONS
Palestine Soup (here), Carrot and Fennel Soup (here), Caponata (here), Zabaglione (here), Chocolate Quakes (here), Madeleine Kamman’s Apple Mousse (here)
MARCH 19, 1972: “AN ELEGANT EASTER PIE,” BY JEAN HEWITT.
—1972
CHEZ PANISSE CALZONE
Once you taste this calzone, all the soggy calzones of your past will be wiped from memory. This is the perfect version. The rye flour infuses the dough with a pleasantly stony, austere aroma. And, unlike most calzones, it contains not a wad of cheese, but a carefully arranged matrix of ham and herbs and cheeses.
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¼ pound goat cheese
7 ounces mozzarella cheese
2 thin slices prosciutto (about 2 ounces)
2 tablespoons finely chopped chives
2 tablespoons finely chopped flat-leaf parsley
1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh thyme or ½ teaspoon dried thyme
½ teaspoon finely chopped fresh marjoram or ¼ teaspoon dried marjoram
1 teaspoon minced garlic
Freshly ground black pepper
Calzone Dough (recipe follows)
1 tablespoon olive oil
1. Crumble the goat cheese into a bowl.
2. Grate the mozzarella and add it to the goat cheese.
3. Stack the prosciutto slices and cut into very thin strips. Add to the cheese. Add the chives, parsley, thyme, marjoram, garlic, and pepper to taste. Blend thoroughly.
4. Heat the oven to 475 degrees. The calzones can be baked in a pizza pan, but it is best to use a baking stone placed on or near the bottom of the oven. Divide the calzone dough in half and roll into loose balls. Using a rolling pin and very little flour, roll out the dough, one half at a time, into circles about 8 inches in diameter. Spoon half the filling onto the bottom half of each circle, leaving a bottom margin of about 1 inch. Fold the other half of each circle of dough over to enclose the filling. Twist the edges of the dough over neatly to seal.
5. Place the calzones in the oven and bake for 15 to 18 minutes, or until quite brown and crisp. Remove from the oven and brush the tops with the olive oil. Cut into serving portions with a serrated knife.
MAKES 2 CALZONES; SERVES 4
¾ cup lukewarm water
2 teaspoons active dry yeast (not rapid-rise)
¼ cup rye flour
1 tablespoon whole milk
2 tablespoons olive oil, plus oil for greasing the bowl and dough
½ teaspoon salt, if desired
Approximately 1¾ cups unbleached all-purpose flour
1. Put ¼ cup lukewarm water in a small bowl. Add the yeast and rye flour. Stir to blend. Let stand in a warm place for 20 to 30 minutes. (This mixture is called a sponge.)
2. Put the milk, olive oil, and salt, if desired, in a larger bowl and add the remaining ½ cup lukewarm water and the sponge. Using a wooden spoon, stir in 1¾ cups all-purpose flour. Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured board. Knead for 10 to 15 minutes. The dough will be soft and slightly sticky. Work it with quick, light motions. Add as little flour as possible, but work the dough until it does not stick. A soft, slightly moist dough will make for a crispier crust.
3. Lightly brush the inside of a large bowl with olive oil and add the ball of dough. Lightly oil the surface of the dough. Cover with a towel and set in a warm place (approximately 90 to 110 degrees). An oven heated by a pilot light can be used, but it must not be too warm. Let the dough rise until almost doubled, about 2 hours.
4. Punch down the dough. Shape it into a ball, return it to the bowl, and let rise once more, about 40 minutes. It is now ready to use.
MAKES ENOUGH FOR 2 MEDIUM CALZONES OR ONE 12- TO 14-INCH PIZZA
COOKING NOTES
Yeast doughs are incredibly patient as long as you treat them well. Lots of old recipes insist that you let the dough rise in a warm place, but dough will also rise happily in a cold place—it just takes longer. Sometimes this delay is helpful: for instance, I made this dough the night before I wanted to serve the calzones. After kneading the dough, I covered the bowl tightly and put it in the fridge overnight. The next day, after its slow-motion rise, I punched down the dough and proceeded with the recipe.
Claiborne and Franey, who wrote the accompanying story, noted, “At Chez Panisse, a blend of half California Sonoma goat cheese and half French goat cheese (such as Bûcheron or Lezay, available in this country in fine cheese shops) is used.”
SERVING SUGGESTIONS
Salade à la Grecque (here), Green Goddess Salad (here), Tortoni (here)
JULY 8, 1984: “FOOD: GETTING TO KNOW CALZONE,” BY CRAIG CLAIBORNE WITH PIERRE FRANEY. RECIPE ADAPTED FROM CHEZ PANISSE IN BERKELEY, CALIFORNIA.
—1984
TARTE FLAMBÉE
Two details will help make your tarte flambée triumphant: rolling the dough as thin as possible (tarte flambée is about the toppings, not the dough) and seasoning the tarte with lots of coarsely ground black pepper.
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Tarte Flambée Dough (recipe follows)
Flour for sprinkling
1 cup fromage blanc or crème fraîche, or ¾ cup sour cream thinned with ⅓ cup whole milk
⅓ to ½ cup minced onion
⅓ to ½ cup minced bacon
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1. Knead the dough lightly and place it on a lightly floured surface. Sprinkle it with a little more flour and cover with plastic wrap or towel. Let it rest while the oven heats.
2. Pat or roll out the dough as thin as possible to a diameter of 12 inches, using more flour as necessary. The process will be easier if you allow the dough to rest occasionally between rollings. If you are using a pizza stone, transfer the rolled-out dough to the floured peel or long-handled board; if you do not, lay the dough on a baking sheet lightly brushed with olive oil. Let the dough rest for 15 to 30 minutes, or until it begins to puff ever so slightly.
3. Heat the oven to at least 500 degrees (600 is better, if your oven goes that high); if you have a pizza stone set it on a rack in the lower third of the oven. Spread the fromage blanc (or alternatives) on the dough. Sprinkle with the onion, bacon, a little salt, and plenty of pepper. Slide it onto the pizza stone, or slide the baking sheet into the oven, and bake until nicely crisp, about 10 minutes; if the tart is browning unevenly, rotate it back to front about halfway through the cooking time. Serve hot.
SERVES 4
TARTE FLAMBÉE DOUGH
1 teaspoon instant or rapid-rise yeast
3 cups (about 14 ounces) all-purpose or bread flour, plus more if needed
2 teaspoons salt
1 cup water
2 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon olive oil
1. Combine the yeast, flour, and salt in a food processor. Turn the machine on and add the water and 2 tablespoons oil through the feed tube. Process for about 30 seconds, adding more water through the feed tube a little at a time until the mixture forms a ball and is slightly sticky to the touch. If it is dry, add another tablespoon or two of water, and process for another 10 seconds. (In the unlikely event that the mixture is too sticky, add more flour a tablespoon at a time.)
2. Turn the dough out onto a floured work surface and knead for a few seconds to form a smooth, round ball. Grease a bowl with the remaining 1 teaspoon olive oil and place the dough in it. Cover with plastic wrap or a damp cloth and let rise in a warm, draft-free area until the dough just about doubles in size, at least 1 hour. (You can also let the dough rise more slowly in the refrigerator, for as long as 6 to 8 hours.)
MAKES ENOUGH FOR TWO 12-INCH PIZZAS
SERVING SUGGESTIONS
James Beard’s Champagne Punch (here), Boeuf Bourguignon I (here), Braised Duck Legs with Pinot Noir Sauce (here), Caramelized Endive (here), The Most Voluptuous Cauliflower (here), Dorie Greenspan’s Sablés (here)
SEPTEMBER 23, 1998: “VIVE LA PIZZA: SIMPLE, RUSTIC, AND, YES, FRENCH,” BY MARK BITTMAN.
—1998
GREEN TOMATO PIZZA
This pizza is surprisingly bright and lemony. I’d serve it as a snack or first course, or as part of a larger meal.
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1 medium and 2 large green tomatoes
Coarse salt
Pizza Dough, divided into balls, allowed to rest, and patted out (recipe follows)
1 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
½ cup coarsely chopped or torn basil
Olive oil
1. Heat the oven to 500 degrees. Thinly slice the tomatoes, salt lightly, and let sit for at least 20 minutes, then drain off any accumulated liquid.
2. Top the pizza rounds with the tomato slices and Parmesan. Bake for about 10 minutes, or until nearly done.
3. Sprinkle the pizzas with the basil and cook until done, about 1 minute more. After removing them from the oven, sprinkle the pizzas with more salt and a splash of olive oil.
MAKES 2 MEDIUM OR MORE SMALLER PIZZAS
MARK BITTMAN’S PIZZA DOUGH
3 cups all-purpose or bread flour, plus more as needed
2 teaspoons active dry yeast
2 teaspoons coarse sea or kosher salt, plus extra for sprinkling
1 cup water
2 tablespoons olive oil
1. To make the dough using a food processor, combine the flour, yeast, and salt in the work bowl. Turn the machine on and add the water and oil through the feed tube. Process for 30 seconds, adding up to ¼ cup more water a little at a time until the mixture forms a ball and is slightly sticky to the touch. (In the unlikely event that the mixture is too sticky, add more flour a tablespoon at a time.) To make the dough by hand, combine half the flour with the yeast and salt in a bowl and stir to blend. Add the water and olive oil; stir with a wooden spoon until smooth. Add the remaining flour a bit at a time; when the mixture becomes too stiff to stir with a spoon, begin kneading it in the bowl, adding as little of the flour as possible—just enough to keep the dough from being a sticky mess. Knead for 5 to 10 minutes.
2. Turn the dough out onto a floured work surface and knead for a few seconds to form a smooth, round ball. Transfer to a bowl and cover with plastic wrap; let rise until doubled in size, 1 to 2 hours. (You can cut the rising time if you are in a hurry, or—preferably—you can let the dough rise more slowly in the refrigerator, for 6 to 8 hours. The dough can then be used immediately or wrapped tightly in plastic wrap and frozen for up to a month. Defrost in a covered bowl in the refrigerator or at room temperature.)
3. Form the dough into a ball and divide into 2 or more pieces; roll each piece into a ball. Place on a lightly floured surface, sprinkle with a little flour, and cover with plastic wrap or a towel. Let rest until slightly puffed, about 20 minutes.
4. Oil one or more baking sheets, as needed, then press each dough ball into a flat round directly on the sheet. Pat out the dough as thin as you like, using oiled hands if necessary.
5. Proceed with the pizza recipe.
MAKES ENOUGH FOR 2 MEDIUM OR MORE SMALLER PIZZAS
SERVING SUGGESTIONS
Stuffed Clams (here), Chiffonade Salad (here), Flat-and-Chewy Chocolate Chip Cookies (here)
JULY 26, 2000: “THE MINIMALIST; ON A ROLL: ENDLESS COMBINATIONS IN ELEGANT SIMPLICITY,” BY MARK BITTMAN.
—2000
CROQUE-MONSIEUR
The French grilled cheese, or croque-monsieur—literally, “crunch-sir”—is a surprisingly tricky sandwich to get right. Great croque-monsieurs have a few elements in common: a single layer each of ham and Gruyère squeezed between two thin slices of bread. (Some are also filled with bèchamel, or white sauce, which makes the whole thing creamier. Others have broiled cheese and bèchamel on top.) The bread is brushed with butter, and the sandwich is cooked on a griddle or toasted under a broiler so that the cheese almost liquefies and the dangling bits of ham and cheese caramelize. It is rich, substantial, and salty, so you reach for a glass of wine or beer between bites.
As there are very few ingredients, they must all be good. You need French ham, which is similar to American ham but a little drier, fattier, and saltier. The Gruyère should be bought in a large piece and sliced at home. You’ll need good butter too. You can mess around and substitute other cheeses and hams, but then you won’t have a croque-monsieur, and you’ll have to live with that. OK?
The correct bread is the most difficult element. In no event should sourdough or whole wheat be used—health has no place here. White sandwich bread is good, because it’s often made with shortening or butter, which gives the sandwich an added roundness of flavor, but white bread can turn mushy when toasted in a griddle. I had the most success with a sturdy thick-crusted country bread, which had enough moisture to blend with the cheese and meat and the bonus of a distinctive tang.
I sliced the bread ¼ inch thick and the cheese paper-thin; I bought ham sliced as thin as prosciutto. I spread one side of a bread slice with a thick layer of béchamel. On it I laid two slices of ham and a single slice of cheese, making sure a little bit of each hung over the sides—like a tablecloth over a table. I brushed both sides of the sandwich with butter, letting it soak in, then pressed it in a sandwich maker that had been heating on medium-high for about 20 minutes. When the sandwich was browned and compressed, and the cheese was leaking out and boiling on the metal, bliss was within reach. The bread was toasted dark and the weight of the griddle had flattened it. The exterior had become a thin crackly shell, like a potato chip, with cooked bits of cheese and ham at the edges. The center of the sandwich, with the béchamel and the melted cheese, was like a warm, thick custard. My inner perfectionist chortled.
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5 tablespoons salted butter
1 tablespoon all-purpose flour
⅔ cup whole milk
Sea salt
Freshly grated nutmeg
Four ⅓-inch-thick slices country bread
4 thin slices French ham
2 thin slices Gruyère cheese
1. Heat a two-sided electric griddle or sandwich press on medium-high to high for about 20 minutes, or heat the oven to 300 degrees and heat a cast-iron skillet on top of the stove for about 5 minutes. To prepare the béchamel sauce, melt 1 tablespoon butter in a small saucepan over medium heat. When the bubbles have subsided, add the flour and whisk vigorously for 1 minute. Slowly whisk in the milk until smooth. Bring to a boil and cook, whisking, until thick. Remove from the heat and season to taste with salt and nutmeg.
2. Spread 2 slices of bread generously with the sauce. Lay 2 slices of ham on top of each, and top each with a slice of cheese; the ham and cheese should slightly overlap the edges of the bread. Top each with a second slice of bread.
3. Melt the remaining 4 tablespoons butter in a small saucepan. Brush the sandwiches on both sides with the butter, making sure that the edges are well covered. If you’re using a griddle, place the sandwiches cheese side down on it, close the griddle, and cook until the bread is toasted dark and the cheese is leaking out and bubbling. If you’re using a skillet, place the sandwiches cheese side down on the pan and cook on the stovetop until well browned, then turn and brown again. Transfer the skillet to the oven and bake until the cheese is bubbling. Serve hot.
SERVES 2
SERVING SUGGESTIONS
Tomato Soup I (here), Tomato Soup II (here), Watercress Salad (here), Sally Darr’s Golden Delicious Apple Tart (here), Coffee Caramel Custard (here)
OCTOBER 4, 2000: “BORN IN A FRENCH CAFÉ, GROWING UP IN NEW YORK,” BY AMANDA HESSER.
—2000
’INO’S TUNA WITH BLACK OLIVE PESTO PANINI
Food trends are rarely subtle. Jonathan Reynolds, a columnist for the Magazine, captured one exactly as it was. “Man,” he wrote, “you can’t swing a dead endangered species in this town without hitting a panini sign, and you can’t swing two without hitting a panino itself.”
But the panino deserved its turn in the spotlight. Panini aren’t just grilled sandwiches. As Reynolds explained, “What gives them their unique appeal is the contrast in textures—the serious snap of their grilled sheath with the soft, gooey insides. (Cheese is ubiquitous.)” I’d add that the heavy grill also compresses the layers, fusing them and making for an uncommonly unified sandwich—one that can be paired with a glass of wine and called dinner.
This version comes from the West Village’s ’ino, a panini restaurant the size of a panino.
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For the Pesto
1 cup Gaeta or other pungent black olives, pitted
10 caper berries, stems removed
Grated zest and juice of 1 lemon
1 cup olive oil
For the Sandwiches
One 6- to 8-ounce can Italian tuna in olive oil, drained
6 caper berries, stems discarded, sliced into thin disks
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 teaspoon Champagne vinegar
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
Pinch of crushed red pepper flakes
Ciabatta rolls
1. To make the pesto, combine all the ingredients in a blender or food processor and blend until just a bit chunky.
2. To make the sandwiches, combine the tuna, caper berries, olive oil, vinegar, lemon juice, and pepper flakes in a bowl and toss. Slice off the top third of the ciabatta rolls and discard. Split the remainder of each roll and spread 1 tablespoon pesto on each half. Place ⅓ cup of the tuna mixture inside each.
3. Grill in a preheated sandwich press or a George Foreman grill until nicely browned, 3 to 6 minutes. Serve warm or at room temperature.
SERVES 4
SERVING SUGGESTIONS
Rhubarb Bellini (here), Lemon Syrup (here), Hearth’s Fava Bean Salad (here), Asparagus alla Fontina (here), Pistachio Gelato (here)
JUNE 15, 2003: “FOOD: CONSTRUCTION PROJECTS,” BY JONATHAN REYNOLDS. RECIPE ADAPTED FROM ’INO IN NEW YORK CITY.
—2003
FRANNY’S CLAM PIZZA
I’m not going to lie—this pizza is a project. But it’s easy to do in stages: the pizza dough and clam sauce can be assembled in the morning, the baking of the pizza at night. And by the time it’s done, it’s like childbirth: you won’t regret the effort. The pizza emerges from the oven hot, crisp, tasting of the ocean and oil, and radiating the warmth of chiles.
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¼ cup extra virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling
½ Spanish onion, cut into chunks
4 garlic cloves, smashed
1 bay leaf
Crushed red pepper flakes
1¼ cups dry white wine
4½ dozen littleneck clams (about 6 pounds), scrubbed well
1½ cups heavy cream
Flour for dusting
Pizza Dough (recipe follows)
Chopped flat-leaf parsley for garnish
1. Place a pizza stone on the top rack of the oven. Heat the oven to 550 degrees for 45 minutes to 1 hour.
2. While the oven heats, place the oil in a large pot over medium heat. Add the onion and sauté until it is limp, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic, bay leaf, and a pinch of red pepper flakes and sauté for 7 minutes longer. Add the wine and bring to a simmer. Add the clams, cover the pot, and cook until they start to open, about 10 minutes. As they open, use tongs to transfer them to a large bowl. When all the clams are cooked, 15 to 20 minutes and (set the pot aside) cooled, pluck out the meat and discard the shells.
3. Simmer the liquid left in the pot until it reduces to a thick, syrupy glaze, about 20 minutes. Add the cream and continue simmering until the mixture is reduced by a quarter, 10 to 15 minutes longer. Strain the sauce through a fine-mesh sieve, and set aside.
4. Flour a pizza peel or rimless cookie sheet. Stretch one dough ball into a 12-inch round and lay it on the peel. Paint the entire surface with ¼ cup clam glaze, and scatter a dozen or so clams over the pizza. Add a sprinkle of crushed red pepper flakes (be conservative on the first one; adjust as necessary for the second).
5. Slide the pie onto the heated stone and bake until the crust is browned on the bottom (use tongs to check), about 4 minutes. If your broiler is part of the oven, turn it to high and broil the pizza until the top is nicely browned, 30 seconds to 1 minute. If your broiler unit is separate, use tongs to transfer the pizza to a cookie sheet, and slide it under the broiler for 30 seconds or so. Continue with the remaining pizzas. Drizzle the pies with olive oil and sprinkle with parsley before serving.
MAKES FOUR 12-INCH PIZZAS; SERVES 4 TO 6
FRANNY’S PIZZA DOUGH
1¾ cups warm water
1½ teaspoons active dry yeast
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, plus more for coating the dough
1½ tablespoons salt
1 tablespoon sugar
5 cups bread flour
1. Put the warm water in a mixer bowl or other large bowl, add the yeast, and stir until it dissolves. Add the oil, salt, and sugar and mix well. Stir in the flour. Knead in the mixer, preferably using a dough hook, or by hand on a floured surface, until the dough comes together. Cover and let rest for 20 minutes.
2. Knead the dough until it’s springy, about 5 minutes in a mixer or 10 minutes by hand. Form into a ball, coat with oil, and place in a large bowl. Cover with plastic and refrigerate overnight.
3. Remove the dough from the refrigerator and let it come to room temperature (2 to 4 hours) before proceeding.
4. Press the dough down and knead it briefly. Divide it into 4 pieces and roll each piece into a loose ball; let rest for 10 minutes.
5. Flatten the dough into disks and cover with cloth towels until ready to use.
MAKES ENOUGH DOUGH FOR FOUR 12-INCH PIZZAS
COOKING NOTES
I made the pizza dough in a mixer fitted with the dough hook, kneading it for 5 minutes on medium-low speed. If you have one, put it to work.
The key step comes right before serving the pie, when you sprinkle it with olive oil. This polishes the flavors and gives the texture a providential slickness, which it needs.
SERVING SUGGESTIONS
Artichoke Salad with Anchovy and Capers (here), Bittersweet Chocolate Semifreddo (here), Raspberry Granita (here)
APRIL 20, 2005: “THE CHEF; ANDREW FEINBERG: A STUDENT OF THE PIZZA DOES A LITTLE HOMEWORK,” BY MELISSA CLARK. RECIPE ADAPTED FROM ANDREW FEINBERG, THE CHEF AT FRANNY’S IN BROOKLYN, NEW YORK.
—2005
WILD MUSHROOM QUESADILLAS
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¼ cup vegetable oil
1 pound chanterelles, black trumpets, or other wild mushrooms (or substitute oyster, cremini, or clamshell mushrooms; do not use shiitake), trimmed and roughly chopped
Salt
½ cup minced onion
¼ pound Oaxaca or domestic Muenster cheese, grated
¼ pound panela or fresh or smoked mozzarella cheese, grated
¼ pound cotija or Parmesan cheese, grated
⅓ cup finely chopped cilantro
½ teaspoon dried oregano
Pinch of ground coriander
Freshly ground black pepper
Eight 8-inch flour or corn tortillas
1. Place a medium sauté pan over medium-high heat and add 2 tablespoons vegetable oil. When the oil shimmers, add the mushrooms and a generous pinch of salt and sauté until the mushrooms release their liquid, the liquid evaporates, and the mushrooms begin to brown, 7 to 10 minutes.
2. Add the onion and sauté, adjusting the heat as necessary, until the onion is soft and the entire mixture is golden brown, about 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and allow to cool slightly.
3. Using a food processor or a knife, finely chop the mushroom-onion mixture, then transfer to a large bowl. Add the grated cheeses, cilantro, oregano, and coriander. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
4. Place a large nonstick or well-seasoned cast-iron skillet over medium heat and add the remaining 2 tablespoons vegetable oil. While the pan heats, place a large spoonful of the mushroom-cheese mixture into the center of a tortilla and fold the tortilla in half to make a half-moon. Place the filled tortilla in the hot skillet and cook, turning once, until the tortilla is nicely browned on both sides and the cheese is melted. Transfer to a platter. Repeat to make a total of 8 filled tortillas. Serve immediately.
SERVES 8
SERVING SUGGESTIONS
La Paloma (here), Guacamole Tostadas (here), Tortilla Soup (here), Yucatán Fish with Crisp Garlic (here), Nueces Canyon Cabrito (Goat Tacos; here), Salted Caramel Ice Cream (here), Grapefruit Granita (here)
MAY 25, 2005: “THE CHEF: TRACI DES JARDINS: TORTILLAS LET A COOK COME HOME AGAIN,” BY KIM SEVERSON. RECIPE ADAPTED FROM TRACI DES JARDINS, THE CHEF AT JARDINIÈRE IN SAN FRANCISCO, CALIFORNIA.
—2005
Once you’ve had a pan bagnat, there’s no going back to the tuna fish sandwich, which suddenly seems stingy and uncouth. The pan bagnat is like a salade Niçoise tucked between halves of a loaf country bread. You layer tuna with cucumbers, tomato, red onion, olives, and egg, all napped with an anchovy vinaigrette. The sandwich is then pressed with weights before eating, which compacts the filling and disperses the dressing evenly. Sandwich engineering 2.0.
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2 anchovy fillets, minced (optional)
1 very small clove garlic, minced
1 teaspoon red wine vinegar
½ teaspoon Dijon mustard
Pinch of salt
Freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
One 8-inch round crusty country loaf or small ciabatta, split
1 Kirby cucumber or ½ regular cucumber
1 medium ripe tomato, sliced
½ small red onion, sliced
One (5- to 6-ounce) jar imported tuna packed in olive oil, drained
8 large basil leaves
2 tablespoons sliced pitted olives, preferably a mix of black and green
1 hard-boiled egg, thinly sliced
1. Whisk together the anchovies, if using, the garlic, vinegar, mustard, salt, to taste and pepper in a small bowl. Slowly drizzle in the oil, whisking constantly.
2. If using a country loaf, pull out some of the soft interior crumb to form a cavity. If using a ciabatta, you won’t need to eliminate anything.
3. If using a Kirby cucumber, thinly slice it. If using a regular cucumber, peel, halve lengthwise, and scoop out the seeds from one half. Thinly slice the seedless half (reserve the remaining half for another use). Add the sliced cucumber to the vinaigrette and toss well.
4. Spread half the cucumbers on the bottom of the bread. Top with the tomato and onion slices, then with the tuna, basil, olives, and egg slices. Top with the remaining cucumbers and vinaigrette. Cover with the second bread half and firmly press the sandwich together.
5. Wrap the sandwich tightly in foil, wax paper, or plastic wrap, then place in a plastic bag. Put the sandwich under a weight such as a cast-iron skillet topped with a filled kettle (or have a child about seven years old sit on it). Weight the sandwich for 7 to 10 minutes, then flip and weight it for another 7 to 10 minutes (or as long as you can get the child to sit still).
6. Unwrap, slice, and serve immediately, or keep it wrapped for up to 8 hours before serving.
SERVES 2 TO 3
SERVING SUGGESTIONS
Claret Cup (here), Stuffed Tomatoes (here), Tarte aux Fruits (here), Blueberry Pie with a Lattice Top (here), Plum Fritters (here), Peach Salad (here)
AUGUST 8, 2007: “A GOOD APPETITE: LUNCH RECIPE: TAKE ONE 7-YEAR-OLD . . .,” BY MELISSA CLARK.
—2007
PIZZA WITH CARAMELIZED ONIONS, FIGS, BACON, AND BLUE CHEESE
Elaine McCool, a reader from Bainbridge Island, Washington, sent me the following e-mail: “Before we were married, in September 1945, my husband had briefly visited friends in Philadelphia, where he was introduced to a new Italian thing called pizza, which he fell in love with. . . . He very much wanted me to start making pizza, but at the time I was doing well to boil an egg.
“However, we bought the Sunday edition of the NY Times every Wednesday, which is when it arrived at our local newsstand in Norman, Oklahoma. I don’t know the date, but it must have been in the winter of ’45-’46, or the spring of ’46, that a full-page article about pizza appeared. It gave complete instructions for making the dough, the sauce, and the toppings, putting it all together and baking it, and the writer predicted that if pizza caught on in the U.S., it would someday compete with hamburgers and hot dogs as the national favorite food. I have been making pizza regularly ever since, and have never been satisfied with any ready-made version. For years, I had the torn-out page, then as it crumbled, typed out a copy, which has now also disappeared. I wish I could remember the writer’s name, but I cannot.”
The article came out in 1947 and the writer’s name was Jane Nickerson. And, indeed, she wrote, “The pizza could be as popular a snack as the hamburger if Americans only knew more about it.” They do now. In the first half of 2009, pizza leapt from cheap take-out food to high art. New York magazine featured a section on the top twenty pizzerias in the city. Alan Richman, GQ’s food writer, ranked the twenty-five best pizzas in the country. Frank Bruni, the Times’s restaurant critic, did an extensive review of New York pizza. And Sam Sifton, then the Times’s culture editor and closet food maven (now the restaurant reviewer), made a persuasive case for baking pizza at home.
Sifton insisted: “[You] should never listen to the deadbeats who tell you that it’s hard, that it can’t be done at home, that if you are baking pizza at home, then what you are making is somehow not pizza because you don’t have a professional pizza oven that burns at 800 degrees.” No, he said, all you really need is a baking stone and a peel for transporting the pizza to and from your conventional oven. And if you don’t have them, buy them. “Use the things five times over the year,” Sifton wrote, “and they’ll pay for themselves in what you’ll save by not calling Ray’s or Tony’s or the Albanian joint for a large.”
Make the dough the day before, keep the toppings simple, and apply them softly, “as if you were placing flower petals on a cloud.” So don’t be a deadbeat—delicious homemade pies await!
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2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 large Spanish onion
2 teaspoons thyme leaves
2 bay leaves
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
4 thick slices bacon, cut into ¼-inch-wide batons
1 ball Pizza Dough (recipe follows)
Flour for dusting
12 dried Black Mission figs, stems removed and cut into quarters or small pieces
¾ cup crumbled Gorgonzola cheese
Extra virgin olive oil for drizzling
Coarsely cracked black pepper
1. At least 45 minutes before cooking, heat the oven and a pizza stone, set on the lowest rack, to 550 degrees.
2. Meanwhile, melt the butter in a large sauté pan over high heat. Add the onion, thyme, and bay leaves and cook for 5 minutes, stirring often, until the onion begins to wilt; season with salt and pepper. Reduce the heat to medium-low and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onions have softened and turned a deep golden brown, about 25 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Remove the bay leaves and transfer the onions to a small bowl.
3. Add the bacon to the pan, set over high heat, and cook, stirring occasionally, until brown and crispy. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the bacon to a small bowl.
4. Place the pizza dough on a heavily floured surface and stretch and pull it, using your hands or a rolling pin, into about a 14-inch round. Place on a lightly floured pizza peel or rimless baking sheet. Cover with the toppings, being careful not to press on the dough and weigh it down: the caramelized onions first, then the figs and bacon, and finally the Gorgonzola, leaving roughly a ½-inch border.
5. Shake the pizza peel slightly to make sure the dough is not sticking. Carefully slide the pizza onto the baking stone in one quick forward-and-back motion. Cook until the crust has browned on the bottom and the top is bubbling and browning in spots, about 7 minutes. Drizzle with a little olive oil and some cracked black pepper. Serve hot.
MAKES 1 PIZZA; SERVES 2
SAM SIFTON’S PIZZA DOUGH
1½ cups unbleached all-purpose flour
1½ cups unbleached bread flour, plus more for dusting
¾ teaspoon active dry yeast
2¼ teaspoons Diamond Crystal kosher salt
1½ cups cold water
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1. The morning or, ideally, the day before cooking, prepare the dough: Using a whisk, combine the flours, yeast, and salt in the bowl of a stand electric mixer. Switch to a wooden spoon and stir in the water and olive oil until a rough dough forms. Set the bowl on the mixer stand and, using the paddle attachment, mix on low speed for 1 minute. Increase the speed to high and beat for 4 to 6 minutes, until it becomes a wet and vaguely menacing mass. (If it forms into a ball, lower the mixer speed to medium-high; if not, stop the mixer to scrape down the sides once.)
2. Scrape and pour the dough onto a heavily floured work surface. Keeping your fingers, the countertop, and the dough well floured, fold one dough end over the other so that half the floured underside covers the rest of the dough. Let rest for 10 minutes.
3. Cut the dough into 2 equal pieces. Shape each piece into a smooth ball. Place each ball on a well-oiled plate, dust generously with flour, and cover loosely with plastic wrap. Let the dough rise until it is at least doubled in size, about 3 hours.
4. Punch the dough balls down, shape into rounds, and place each in a quart-size freezer bag. Refrigerate the dough for at least 1 hour, or up to 4 hours.
MAKES ENOUGH FOR TWO 14-INCH PIZZAS
SERVING SUGGESTIONS
Watercress Salad (here), Salade à la Romaine (here), Strawberry Sorbet (here)
APRIL 19, 2009: “THE CHEAT: CRUST FUND,” BY SAM SIFTON. PIZZA DOUGH RECIPE ADAPTED FROM JEFFREY STEINGARTEN, THE FOOD CRITIC AT VOGUE AND AUTHOR OF THE MAN WHO ATE EVERYTHING.
—2009
