PATTERN 5
Coat Dress
Q
page 21
MATERIALS
Fabric [Featherwale corduroy] ……43 in (108cm) wide 3 5/8 yd (3m)
*Cut to make sure the nap is facing the same way
Fusible interfacing [for outer collar] ……36 in (90cm) wide 12 in (30cm)
Buttons ……8 with diameter of 7/8 in (2cm)
INSTRUCTIONS
Preparation ……Apply fusible interfacing to outer collar
*M all pocket edges
| 1. | Attach pockets. |
| 2. | Gather skirt portion and attach to bodice. (*M through both layers. Press seam allowance towards bodice). |
| 3. | Sew shoulders. (*M through both layers. Press seam allowance towards back). |
| 4. | Attach sleeves. (*M through both layers. Press seam allowance towards sleeve. see p. 67 for reference). |
| 5. | Sew undersides of sleeves and side. (*M through both layers. Press seam allowance towards back). |
| 6. | Fold over sleeve openings twice and sew. |
| 7. | Attach collar. Fold the front facing twice towards. the Ws, then fold back the facing towards the Rs, flush with the front edge. |
| 8. | Stitch to secure facing. |
| 9. | Fold up hem twice and sew. |
| 10. | Make button holes and sew on buttons. |
| *M = neaten raw edge using serger or zig zag stitch | |
| *See p. 31 for pom pom instructions |
[Cutting layout]
PATTERN 5
Coat Dress
R
pages 22–23
MATERIALS
Coat dress
Fabric [Featherwale corduroy] ……43 in (108cm) wide 3 yd (2.8m) p.22
*Cut to make sure the nap is facing the same way
Fabric [French linen] ……43 in (108cm) wide 3 yd (2.8m) p.23
Fusible interfacing (for neckline facing) 36 in (90cm) wide 8 in (20cm)
Buttons ……6 with diameter of 1 1/4 in (3cm)
Leg warmers
Yarn [Mohair blend] White ……6 oz (170g)
Recommended knitting needles: 2 sets of size 7 double-pointed
Gauge
Stockinette stitch 14 stitches 21 rows = 4 in (10cm) swatch
Finished size (approximate) length: 25 5/8 in (65cm) circumference: 8 5/8 in (22cm)
Basket ribbon
Yarn [Mohair blend] Yellow green …… 0.2 oz (5g)
Recommended knitting tool: Jumbo 10mm crochet hook
INSTRUCTIONS
Coat dress
Preparation ……Apply fusible interfacing to front and back neckline. *M all pocket edges
| 1. | Attach pockets. |
| 2. | Sew shoulders for coat. (*M through both layers. Press seam allowance towards back). sew shoulders of facings (press open seam). |
| 3. | Gather sleeve ruffle and attach to sleeve. (*M through both layers. Press seam allowance towards sleeve). |
| 4. | Attach sleeves. (*M through both layers. Press seam allowance towards sleeve). |
| 5. | Sew undersides of sleeves and sides. (*M through both layers. Press seam allowance towards back). |
| 6. | Fold over sleeve openings twice and sew. |
| 7. | Sew coat bodice and neckline facings with Rs together. Fold the front facing twice towards the Ws, then fold back the facing towards the Rs, flush with the front edge. This will become the placket. |
| 8. | Stitch to secure facing. |
| 9. | Fold up hem twice and sew. |
| 10. | Make button holes and sew on buttons. |
| *M = neaten raw edge using serger or zig zag stitch |
Ribbon
Make a slip knot to start, cast on with a chain stitch and single crochet.
*See p. 31 for pom pom instructions, see p. 33 for leg warmer instructions
[diagram]
[Cutting layout]
PATTERN 5
Quilted Coat
S
page 24
MATERIALS
Coat
Fabric [Quilted fabric] ……42 in (106cm) wide 3 3/4 yd (3.4m)
Bias tape ……1 5/8 in (4cm) wide 51⁄2 yd (5m)
Sew-on snaps ……2 sets of 1/2 in (1.2 cm) diameter
Headband
Yarn [Mohair blend] White ……0.5 oz (15g)
Recommended knitting needles: 1 set of jumbo 10mm
Gauge
Stockinette stitch 9 stitches 10 rows = 4 in (10cm) swatch
Finished size (approximate) head circumference: 20 in (50cm)
INSTRUCTIONS
Preparation ……*M the seam allowance for the hood except the darts.
| 1. | Bind pocket opening with bias tape (see p. 72 for reference). |
| 2. | Attach pocket (see p. 72 for reference). |
| 3. | Sew shoulders (press seam open). |
| 4. | Bind hem with bias tape. |
| 5. | Sew center back of hood together (press seam open and stitch to secure seam allowance). |
| 6. | Sew hood darts. (*M through both layers. Press seam allowance towards back). |
| 7. | Attach hood to coat. Bind seam allowance with bias tape, press towards coat and stitch to secure. |
| 8. | Attach sleeves (press seam allowance towards coat). |
| 9. | Sew undersides of sleeves and sides (press open seam). |
| 10. | Bind sleeve opening with bias tape. |
| 11. | Bind front edge and hem continuously with bias tape (see p. 72 for reference). |
| 12. | Attach snap to center front (see p. 73 for reference). |
| *M = neaten raw edge using serger or zig zag stitch | |
| *See p. 62 for headband instructions |
[Cutting layout]
PATTERN 5
Quilted Vest
T
page 25
MATERIALS
Vest
Fabric [Quilted fabric] ……42 in (106cm) wide 2 yd (1.8m)
*For directional prints, lay out PATTERN pieces on fabric to match print direction
Bias tape ……1 5/8 in (4cm) wide 5 yd (4.5m)
Sew-on snaps ……6 sets of 1/2 in (1.2cm) diameter
Cap
Yarn [Mohair blend] Purple ……2.8 oz (80g)
Recommended knitting needles: 2 sets of jumbo size 8mm double-pointed
Gauge
Garter stitch 10 stitches 20 rows = 4 in (10cm) swatch
Finished size (approximate) head circumference: 22 in (55cm) height: 10 in (24cm)
INSTRUCTIONS
Vest
Preparations ……*M all edges
| 1. | Bind pocket opening with bias tape. |
| 2. | Attach pocket. |
| 3. | Sew shoulders (press open seam). |
| 4. | Sew sides (press open seam). |
| 5. | Attach sleeves. |
| 6. | Continuously bind front opening and hem with bias tape. |
| 7. | Bind collar with bias tape. |
| 8. | Sew snaps onto front opening. |
| *M = neaten raw edge using serger or zig zag stitch |
Cap
| 1. | Cast on for circular knitting. Rib stitch starting with knit stitch. Switch to garter stitch and decrease. Thread yarn end through remaining stitches and tighten to finish. |
| 2. | Make a 3.2 in (8cm)-diameter pom pom (p. 31) and attach to top of cap. |
| *See p. 31 for pom pom instructions |
[Cutting layout]
[How to handle quilting fabric]
1 Overlock or zig zag stitch all raw edges. This way the quilting stitches will not ravel, making the fabric easier to handle.
2 Align the edge of the bias tape to the Ws and sew along the crease line. Allow a little slack in the tape when sewing around a curve.
3 Fold bias tape over to the right side.
4 Stitch about 1/16 in (0.1cm) from edge.
PATTERN 5
Bolero
U
page 26
MATERIALS
Bolero
Fabric [Wool bouclé] ……44 in (110cm) wide 2 1/2 yd (2.3m)
Fusible interfacing (for facing) ……36 in (90cm) wide 16 in (40cm)
Covered buttons ……4 with diameter of 5/8 in (1.5cm)
Wide ribbon
Yarn [Mohair blend] Mustard ……0.4 oz (10g)
Recommended knitting needles: 1 set of size 7
Finished size 19 5/8 ~25 5/8 in (50~65cm) (based on preference)
INSTRUCTIONS
Preparation ……Apply fusible interfacing to facing
| 1. | Make fabric loop and baste to front edge. |
| 2. | Sew shoulders. (*M through both layers. Press seam allowance towards back). sew facing shoulders (press open seam), *M on outer edge. |
| 3. | Sew sides. (*M through both layers. Press seam allowance towards back). |
| 4. | Sew bodice and facing with Rs together. |
| 5. | Sew sides of base fabric and each ruffle tier (*M through both layers. Press seam allowance towards back), fold up hem twice and sew. sew gathering stitches on ruffles. |
| 6. | First attach the third (bottom) ruffle tier to the base fabric (*M through both layers. Press seam allowance towards base fabric). |
| 7. | Attach second ruffle tier to base fabric and sew. |
| 8. | Attach first ruffle tier to base fabric and baste. sandwich the base fabric between the bodice and facing and sew. (*M through all three layers. Press seam allowance towards bodice). |
| 9. | Stitch neckline, front edges and waist. Blind stitch edge of facing to seam allowance. |
| 10. | Sew undersides of sleeves (*M through both layers. Press seam allowance towards back). |
| 11. | Fold over sleeve openings and sew. |
| 12. | Attach sleeves (*M through both layers. Press seam allowance towards sleeve) |
| 13. | Make covered buttons and attach. |
| *M = neaten raw edge using serger or zig zag stitch |
Wide ribbon
Cast on stitches and garter stitch without increasing or decreasing. Bind off.
[Cutting layout]
[Loop instructions]
PATTERN 5
Jacket
V
page 27
MATERIALS
Jacket
Fabric [Tweed] ……58 in (146cm) wide 1 5/8 yd (1.7m)
Fusible interfacing (for facing, outer collar) ……36 in (90cm) wide 1 1/8 yd (1m)
Book Cover
Yarn [Mohair blend] Aqua ……1.1 oz (30g)
Fabric [liberty print] ……8 x 10 in (20×25cm)
Recommended knitting needles: 1 set of size 8 us/6 uK-CA
Garter stitch 9 stitches 10 rows = 4 in (10cm) swatch
Finished size 8 x 10 1/4 in (20×26cm)
INSTRUCTIONS
Jacket
Preparations ……Apply fusible interfacing to facing and outer collar (avoid the fringe section). Bind pocket opening with bias tape.
| 1. | Sew shoulders (*M through both layers. Press seam allowance towards back). sew facing shoulders (press open seam). Fold outer edge of facing. |
| 2. | With Rs together, sew bodice to under collar and the facing to the outer collar (press open seams). |
| 3. | Sew bodice and facing with right sides together. |
| 4. | With wrong sides of bodice and facing together, stitch closed the collar seam allowances. layer the bodice and facing, then sew the fringe stop line. |
| 5. | Attach sleeves (*M through both layers. Press seam allowance towards sleeve). |
| 6. | Sew the undersides of the sleeves and sides (*M through both layers. Press seam allowance towards back). |
| 7. | Fold over sleeve openings twice and sew. |
| 8. | Fold up hem twice and sew. |
| 9. | Fit the outer edge of the facing to the bodice and sew. |
| 10. | Pull out threads from the weave to create a fringe up to the stitch line on the front edge and collar. |
| *M = neaten raw edge using serger or zig zag stitch |
Book Cover
| 1. | Cast on stitches and garter stitch without increasing or decreasing stitches. Bind off. |
| 2. | Fold over edges of pocket by 3/8 in (1cm) and stitch pocket opening. |
| 3. | Attach two pockets. |
[Cutting layout]
See p. 35 for fringe-making instructions
