VESUVIUS AND AROUND
Few places on earth are as awe-inspiring as this area of southern Italy. Here lies the archetypal heart of Campania, where high culture and the indifferent violence of nature have met again and again. Although many lost their families, homes and lives, mankind has ironically gained from these deadly encounters with the mighty volcano that is Mount Vesuvius – in the very act of destruction entire cultures have been preserved for posterity. Here is the city of Pompeii, the town of Herculaneum, and other amazing villas – all of them replete with art and architecture that reveal to us the great heritage of beauty bequeathed by our forebears from Roman times. In later centuries, the unearthing of these treasures inspired even kings to build sumptuous palaces, so that they could sample firsthand the exciting discoveries.
1.Pompeii
Certainly no archaeological find is more important than that of ancient Pompeii, where a culture was captured forever by the eruption of Mount Vesuvius in AD 79. Not only can we see the streets, buildings, furnishings, art, tools, jewellery, and even the food and drink of the people who lived here, but plaster casts reveal the people themselves. From the ruling class down to slaves, we can see their last moments during those terrible few hours that doomed the city (for further details see Pompeii).
The ancient city of Pompeii in the shadow of Mount Vesuvius
2.Herculaneum
This town, largely a resort in ancient times located right on the sea, was also buried alive by mud and lava from Vesuvius. The resulting preservation is, if anything, even better, bringing down to us wooden structures and other more perishable materials. However the excavations began in the 18th century when the science of archaeology had yet to be developed, so diggers were not very careful, being mostly on a royal treasure hunt for statuary, mosaics and fresco paintings (for further details see Herculaneum, Oplontis and Stabiae).
Roman mosaic, Herculaneum
3.Vesuvius
Guided walks daily • Adm • www.vesuvioexpress.info Continental Europe’s only active volcano has not blown up since its last rumble in 1944, but experts say it could happen at any time; an invigorating hike around the crater is certainly a memorable experience. Drive to the parking area near the top of the volcano, from where the 1.5-hour return trail is accompanied by volcanologist guides, except in bad weather (for further details see Mount Vesuvius).
4.Torre Annunziata and Oplontis
Few places present such a stark contrast to the visitor as this one. The contemporary squalor of uncontrolled urban blight hides, within its depressed grime, imperial splendours of the ancient world. The town is infamous these days for its crime and poverty, yet just two blocks from the train station lie the beautifully preserved ruins of one of the most sumptuous villas to have been preserved by Vesuvius’s eruption (for further details see Mount Vesuvius).
Villa Sabina Poppaea, Oplontis
5.Reggia di Portici and the Vesuvian Villas
Reggia di Portici, Via Università 100 • Open 8:30am–7pm Mon–Fri (park & chapel only) • Guided tours: Reggia (081 775 48 50), Villas (081 732 21 34)
• Adm (chapel free) The Vesuvian Villas were begun by King Charles III and Queen Maria in the 18th century. His Reggia (palace), designed by Antonio Medrano, was the first and greatest, the rest of which were built by other members of the Bourbon court. For the most part the villas are now dilapidated.
6.Villa Campolieto
Corso Resina 283, Ercolano • Open 10am–1pm Tue–Sun • Guided tours • Adm This stupendous villa was designed by the Vanvittelli brothers between 1760–75. It features a circular portico, where concerts are held, and enjoys a lovely panorama of the bay. Some of the rooms have been restored to their original decor, while others are used for special exhibitions.
7.Castellammare di Stabia
This port town has been known since ancient times for its thermal springs – the many different waters are each thought to be therapeutic in specific ways. As with its neighbours, its beauty has been compromised by poverty and developers, but it is not without charm. Nearby, the ruins of aristocratic villas, Arianna and San Marco, offer glimpses into wealthy lifestyles of 2,000 years ago (for further details see Terme di Stabia, Castellammare di Stabia).
Castellammare di Stabia
8.Villa Favorita
Corso Resina 291, Ercolano • 081 192 44 532 • Open 10am–1pm Tue–Sun Villa Favorita was boarded up at least 100 years ago – with Italian Unification the noble homes became an obsolete symbol of decadence. However the park and the annexe are open to visitors, the former punctuated with pavilions.
9.Villa Ruggero
Via A Rossi 40, Ercolano • Open 10am–1pm Tue–Sun Set back from the sea, this house was built for the Baronial Petti family. It has been restored, with Rococo decorations, frescoes and marble busts.
10.Torre del Greco
This town has been home to coral and cameo artisans for centuries, a craft that still draws admirers today. Yet its rough streets are among the area’s worst for violent crime, and it lies in the line of fire from Vesuvius, last suffering destruction in 1794.
THE GOLDEN MILE
The 18th-century evolution of Il Miglio d’Oro can be traced back to Maria Amalia Cristina, Queen of Naples. She had grown up in a Viennese palace adorned with two marble statues unearthed at Herculaneum. When she arrived in Naples, she wanted a palace near the site. It started a trend among the nobility and some 120 villas were built.
Places to Eat
1.Kona, Ercolano
Via Osservatorio 14 • 081 777 39 68 • Closed D daily, except Sat evening • €€ Surrounded by gardens and with a view of the Gulf of Naples from the terrace, dining here is a tranquil experience. Seafood specialities and traditional pasta dishes make up the menu; the fresh seafood salad comes recommended.
2.Ristorante Suisse, Pompei
Piazza Porta Marina Inferiore • 081 862 25 36 • €€ Of all the eateries outside the main gate of the ruins, this one offers the nicest atmosphere. It has indoor and outside tables, and serves a good standard of trattoria fare.
3.Zi Caterina, Pompei
Via Roma 20 • 081 850 74 47 • €€ Seafood is a speciality here; try seppie con finocchi e olive (cuttlefish with fennel and olives). The wine list features local vintages.
4.Grand Hotel La Medusa, Castellammare di Stabia
Via Passeggiata Archeologica 5 • 081 872 33 83 • €€ This elegant hotel has a large dining room offering set meals, as well as à la carte selections.
5.Nuovo Ristorante Anfiteatro, Pompei
Via Plinio 9 • 081 850 60 42 • Closed Fri • €€ Located immediately outside the excavations, this restaurant has been running since 1922. The fresh fish is a good choice in summer.
6.Bar degli Amorini, Ercolano
Corso Resina • No credit cards • € Enjoy a simple meal and the chilled red wine, made on the premises.
7.Il Principe, Pompei
Piazza B Longo 8 • 081 850 55 66 • Closed Sun & Mon • €€€ Elegant decor is graced with reproductions of Pompeian art, and the cuisine also takes its inspiration from ancient sources. Classical writers have provided recipes that have been adapted to modern tastes, earning the proprietors a Michelin star. The on-site wine bar also serves food.
Il Principe, Pompei
8.Casa Rossa 1888, Torre del Greco
Via Vesuvio 30 • 081 883 15 49 • Closed Tue • €€ Good Neapolitan food right on the beach with fine views of the bay.
9.La Mammola, Torre del Greco
Hotel Marad, Via S Sebastiano 24 • 081 849 21 68 • €€ A beautiful restaurant serving traditional cuisine with creative flair.
10.Al Gamberone, Pompei
Via Piave 36 • 081 850 68 14 • Closed Tue • €€ Dining alfresco under the lemon and orange trees is a treat. Seafood is key.