Traveling as a Temporary Local
Florence is Europe’s cultural capital. As the home of the Renaissance and the birthplace of the modern world, Florence practiced the art of civilized living back when the rest of Europe was rural and crude. Democracy, science, and literature, as well as painting, sculpture, and architecture, were all championed by the proud and energetic Florentines of the 1400s.
When the Florentine poet Dante first saw the teenaged Beatrice, her beauty so inspired him that he spent the rest of his life writing poems to her. In the same way, the Renaissance opened people’s eyes to the physical beauty of the world around them, inspiring them to write, paint, sculpt, and build.
Today, Florence is geographically small but culturally rich, with more artistic masterpieces per square mile than anyplace else. In a single day, you can look Michelangelo’s David in the eyes, fall under the seductive sway of Botticelli’s Birth of Venus, and climb the modern world’s first dome, which still dominates the skyline.
Of course, there’s a reality here, too. As the historic center becomes increasingly filled with visitors, rents are rising and locals are fleeing to the suburbs, threatening to make Florence a kind of Renaissance theme park. Sure, Florence is touristy. But where else can you stroll the same pedestrian streets walked by Michelangelo, Leonardo, and Botticelli while savoring the world’s best gelato?
To round out your visit, see Florence and then escape to the Tuscan countryside. With its manicured fields, rustic farms, and towns clinging to nearly every hill, Tuscany is our romantic image of village Italy. Venture beyond the fringes of Florence and you’ll find a series of sun- and wine-soaked villages, each with its own appeal. Stretching from the Umbrian border to the Ligurian Sea, the landscape changes from pastoral (Crete Senese) to rocky (Chianti) to mountainous (the Montagnola) to flat and brushed with sea breezes (Pisa).
Use this legend to help you navigate the maps in this book.
During your visit, you’ll discover that peaceful Tuscan villages and bustling Florence—with its rough-stone beauty, art-packed museums, children chasing pigeons, students riding Vespas, artisans sipping Chianti, and supermodels wearing Gucci fashions—offer many of the very things you came to Italy to see.
Rick Steves’ Florence & Tuscany 2014 is a personal tour guide in your pocket. Better yet, it’s actually two tour guides in your pocket: The co-author of this book is Gene Openshaw. Since our first “Europe through the gutter” trip together as high school buddies in the 1970s, Gene and I have been exploring the wonders of the Old World. An inquisitive historian and lover of European culture, Gene wrote most of this book’s self-guided museum tours and neighborhood walks. Together, Gene and I keep this book up-to-date and accurate (though for simplicity, from this point we’ve shed our respective egos to become “I”).
In this book, you’ll find the following chapters:
Orientation to Florence includes specifics on public transportation, helpful hints, local tour options, easy-to-read maps, and tourist information. The “Planning Your Time” section suggests a schedule for how to best use your limited time.
Sights in Florence describes the top attractions and includes their cost and hours.
The Self-Guided Walks and Tours take you through the core of Renaissance Florence, starting with Michelangelo’s David and cutting through the heart of the city to Ponte Vecchio on the Arno River. You’ll tour Tuscany’s most fascinating museums and sights, including Florence’s Accademia Gallery (home to Michelangelo’s David), Uffizi Gallery, Bargello, Museum of San Marco, Duomo Museum, Palazzo Vecchio, Medici Chapels, Medici-Riccardi Palace, Church of Santa Maria Novella, Santa Croce Church, the Oltrarno neighborhood (south of the Arno), Brancacci Chapel, Pitti Palace, and the Galileo Science Museum, as well as Siena’s Duomo, Duomo Museum, and Civic Museum, and, in Pisa, the Leaning Tower, Duomo, and Field of Miracles.
This book is updated every year—but as soon as you pin down Italy, it wiggles. For the latest, visit www.ricksteves.com/update . For a valuable list of reports and experiences—good and bad—from fellow travelers, check www.ricksteves.com/feedback.
I use the following symbols and abbreviations in this book:
Sights are rated:
| ▲▲▲ | Don’t miss |
| ▲▲ | Try hard to see |
| ▲ | Worthwhile if you can make it |
| No rating | Worth knowing about |
Tourist information offices are abbreviated as TI, and bathrooms are WCs. To categorize accommodations, I use a Sleep Code (described on here).
Like Europe, this book uses the 24-hour clock. It’s the same through 12:00 noon, then keeps going: 13:00, 14:00, and so on. For anything over 12, subtract 12 and add p.m. (14:00 is 2:00 p.m.).
When giving opening times, I include both peak season and off-season hours if they differ. So, if a museum is listed as “May-Oct daily 9:00-16:00,” it should be open from 9 a.m. until 4 p.m. from the first day of May until the last day of October (but expect exceptions).
If you see a 
in a sight listing, it means that the sight is covered in much more detail elsewhere—either with its own self-guided tour, or as part of a self-guided walk.
For transit or tour departures, I first list the frequency, then the duration. So, a train connection listed as “2/hour, 1.5 hours” departs twice each hour and the journey lasts an hour and a half.
Sleeping in Florence describes my favorite hotels, from good-value deals to cushy splurges.
Eating in Florence serves up a range of options, from inexpensive cafés to fancy restaurants.
Florence with Children includes my top recommendations for keeping your kids (and you) happy in Florence.
Shopping in Florence gives you tips for shopping painlessly and enjoyably, without letting it overwhelm your vacation or ruin your budget.
Nightlife in Florence is your guide to after-dark fun, including concerts, theaters, pubs, and clubs.
Florence Connections lays the groundwork for your smooth arrival and departure, covering transportation by train, bus, car, cruise ship, and by plane (with information on Florence’s Amerigo Vespucci Airport).
Siena covers the highlights in this captivating Gothic city, from the stay-awhile central piazza to the 13th-century cathedral.
Pisa takes you beyond the Leaning Tower.
Lucca introduces you to the charms of this little-touristed, well-preserved city.
And Tuscan Hill Towns brings you the best of village Italy, featuring San Gimignano, Volterra, Montalcino, Pienza, Montepulciano, and Cortona.
The Florentine History chapter takes you on a whirlwind tour through the ages, covering two millennia, from ancient Tuscany to the present.
The appendix is a traveler’s tool kit, with telephone tips, useful phone numbers and websites, the basics on transportation in Italy, recommended books and films, a festival list, a climate chart, a handy packing checklist, and Italian survival phrases.
Browse through this book, choose your favorite destinations, and link them up. Then have a buono trip! Traveling like a temporary local, you’ll get the absolute most out of every mile, minute, and dollar. As you visit places I know and love, I’m happy you’ll be meeting my favorite Florentines.
This section will help you get started planning your trip—with advice on trip costs, when to go, and what you should know before you take off.
Many people travel through Italy thinking it’s a chaotic mess. They feel that any attempt at efficient travel is futile. This is dead wrong—and expensive. Italy, which seems as orderly as spilled spaghetti, actually functions quite well. Only those who understand this and travel smart can enjoy Italy on a budget.
This book can save you lots of time and money. But to have an “A” trip, you need to be an “A” student. Read it all before your trip, noting holidays, specifics on sights, and days when sights are closed. You can wait in line for two hours to get into the Uffizi—or, by planning ahead (making reservations or buying the Firenze Card), you can walk right in. Saving Michelangelo’s David for your trip finale is risky, and on Monday, impossible. (Florence’s major sights, along with some minor ones, are closed on Mondays.) If you cut your Siena day trip short, you’ll miss the city’s medieval magic at twilight. A smart trip is a puzzle—a fun, doable, and worthwhile challenge.
When you’re plotting your itinerary, strive for a mix of intense and relaxed stretches. To maximize rootedness in Tuscany, minimize one-night stands. It’s worth a drive after dinner to be settled into a town for two nights. Every trip—and every traveler—needs slack time (laundry, picnics, people-watching, and so on). Pace yourself. Assume you will return.
Reread this book as you travel, and visit local TIs. Upon arrival in a new town, lay the groundwork for a smooth departure; write down (or print out from an online source) the schedule for the train or bus that you’ll take when you depart. Drivers can study the best route to their next destination.
Get online at Internet cafés or your hotel (nearly all of which have Wi-Fi), and buy a phone card or carry a mobile phone: You can get tourist information, learn the latest on sights (special events, English tour schedules, etc.), book tickets and tours, make reservations, reconfirm hotels, research transportation connections, and keep in touch with your loved ones.
Enjoy the friendliness of your Tuscan hosts. Connect with the culture. Set up your own quest for the best gelato, piazza, enoteca (wine bar), or Renaissance painting or sculpture. Slow down and be open to unexpected experiences. Ask questions—most locals are eager to point you in their idea of the right direction. Keep a notepad in your pocket for confirming prices, noting directions, and organizing your thoughts. Wear your money belt, learn the currency, and figure out how to estimate prices in dollars. Those who expect to travel smart, do.
Six components make up your total trip cost: airfare, surface transportation, room and board, sightseeing and entertainment, shopping and miscellany, and gelato.
Airfare: A basic, round-trip flight from the US to Florence can cost on average, about $1,000-1,800 total, depending on where you fly from and when (cheaper in winter or sometimes if flying into Milan or Rome). If Florence is part of a longer trip, consider saving time and money in Europe by flying into one city and out of another (for instance, into Florence and out of Paris).
Surface Transportation: Most of Florence’s sights, clustered in the downtown core, are within easy walking distance of each other. If you’d rather use taxis than walk, allow $80-100 over the course of a one-week visit (taxis can be shared by up to four people). The cost of round-trip, second-class train transportation to the recommended nearby destinations is affordable (about $11 for a train ticket to Pisa or Siena, and slightly less for a bus ticket to San Gimignano). For a one-way trip between Florence’s airport and the city center, allow $8 by bus or $35 by taxi (can be shared). The other cities and villages covered in this book are made for walking. For more on public transportation and car rental, see “Transportation” in the appendix.
Room and Board: You can thrive in Tuscany in 2014 on $135 a day per person for room and board. This allows $15 for lunch, $35 for dinner, and $85 for lodging (based on two people splitting the cost of a $170 double room that includes breakfast). Students and tightwads can enjoy Tuscany for as little as $65 a day ($30 for a bed, $35 for meals and snacks).
Sightseeing and Entertainment: Figure about $15 for major sights (Michelangelo’s David, Uffizi Gallery), $5-10 for minor ones (museums, climbing church towers), and $25 for splurge experiences (e.g., walking tours and concerts). An overall average of $35 a day works for most people. Don’t skimp here. After all, this category is the driving force behind your trip—you came to sightsee, enjoy, and experience Florence.
Shopping and Miscellany: Figure $3 per postcard, coffee, soft drink, or gelato. Shopping can vary in cost from nearly nothing to a small fortune. Good budget travelers find that this category has little to do with assembling a trip full of lifelong, wonderful memories.
Tuscany’s best travel months (also its busiest and most expensive) are April, May, June, September, and October. These months combine the conveniences of peak season with pleasant weather.
The most grueling thing about travel in Tuscany is the summer heat in July and August, when temperatures hit the high 80s and 90s. Most mid-range hotels come with air-conditioning—a worthwhile splurge in the summer—but it’s usually available only from June through September.
In April and October, you’ll generally need a sweater or light jacket in the evening. In winter the temperatures can drop to the 40s or 50s (for more specifics, see the climate chart in the appendix). Off-season has none of the sweat and stress of the tourist season, but sights may have shorter hours, lunchtime breaks, and fewer activities. Confirm your sightseeing plans locally, especially when traveling off-season.
Your trip is more likely to go smoothly if you plan ahead. Check this list of things to arrange while you’re still at home.
You need a passport—but no visa or shots—to travel in Italy. You may be denied entry into certain European countries if your passport is due to expire within three to six months of your ticketed date of return. Get it renewed if you’ll be cutting it close. It can take up to six weeks to get or renew a passport (for more on passports, see www.travel.state.gov). Pack a photocopy of your passport in your luggage in case the original is lost or stolen.
Book rooms well in advance if you’ll be traveling during peak season (summer) and any major holidays (see here).
Make museum reservations before your trip or buy a Firenze Card in Florence to avoid standing in long lines for the Uffizi (Renaissance paintings) and Accademia (Michelangelo’s David). The Uffizi is often booked up a month or more in advance, while the Accademia is usually full at least a few days out. Reservations are explained on here, and the Firenze Card on here.
Call your debit- and credit-card companies to let them know the countries you’ll be visiting, to ask about fees, request your PIN code (it will be mailed to you), and more. See here for details.
Do your homework if you want to buy travel insurance. Compare the cost of the insurance to the likelihood of your using it and your potential loss if something goes wrong. Also, check whether your existing insurance (health, homeowners, or renters) covers you and your possessions overseas. For more information, see www.ricksteves.com/insurance.
If you’re taking an overnight train and need a couchette (cuccetta) or sleeper—and you must leave on a certain day—consider booking it in advance through a US agent (such as www.raileurope.com), even though it may cost more than buying it in Italy. Other Italian trains, like the high-speed Freece trains, require a seat reservation, but for these it’s usually possible to make arrangements in Italy just a few days ahead. (For more on train travel, see the appendix).
If you’re planning on renting a car in Italy, bring your driver’s license and an International Driving Permit (see here). Driving is prohibited in some city centers; if you drive in restricted areas monitored by cameras, you can be fined without a cop ever stopping you (see here).
If you plan to hire a local guide, reserve ahead by email. Popular guides can get booked up.
If you’re bringing a mobile device, download any apps you might want to use on the road, such as translators, maps, and transit schedules. Check out Rick Steves Audio Europe, featuring travel interviews and other audio content about Florence and Tuscany (via www.ricksteves.com/audioeurope, iTunes, Google Play, or the Rick Steves Audio Europe smartphone app; for details, see here).
Check the Rick Steves guidebook updates page for any recent changes to this book (www.ricksteves.com/update).
Because airline carry-on restrictions are always changing, visit the Transportation Security Administration’s website (www.tsa.gov) for an up-to-date list of what you can bring on the plane with you...and what you must check.
Emergency and Medical Help: In Italy, dial 113 for English-speaking police help. To summon an ambulance, call 118. If you get sick, do as the locals do and go to a pharmacist for advice. Or ask at your hotel for help—they’ll know the nearest medical and emergency services.
Theft or Loss: To replace a passport, you’ll need to go in person to a US embassy or consulate (see here). If your credit and debit cards disappear, cancel and replace them (see “Damage Control for Lost Cards” on here). File a police report, either on the spot or within a day or two; you’ll need it to submit an insurance claim for lost or stolen railpasses or travel gear, and it can help with replacing your passport or credit and debit cards. For more information, see www.ricksteves.com/help. Precautionary measures can minimize the effects of loss—back up your digital photos and other files frequently.
Time Zones: Italy, like most of continental Europe, is generally six/nine hours ahead of the East/West Coasts of the US. The exceptions are the beginning and end of Daylight Saving Time: Europe “springs forward” the last Sunday in March (two weeks after most of North America), and “falls back” the last Sunday in October (one week before North America). For a handy online converter, try www.timeanddate.com/worldclock.
Business Hours: Traditionally, Italy uses the siesta plan. People generally work from 9:00 to 13:00 and from 15:30 to 19:00, Monday through Saturday. But many businesses have adopted the government’s recommended 8:00 to 14:00 workday, although in tourist areas, shops are open longer. Still, expect small towns and villages to be more or less shut tight during the midafternoon. Stores are usually closed on Sunday, and often on Monday. Many Florence shops close for a couple of weeks around August 15. Banking hours are generally Monday through Friday from 8:30 to 13:30 and 15:30 to 16:30, but can vary wildly.
Saturdays are virtually weekdays, with earlier closing hours. Sundays have the same pros and cons as they do for travelers in the US: Sightseeing attractions are generally open, while shops and banks are closed; public transportation options are fewer (for example, no bus service to or from the smaller hill towns), and there’s no rush hour. Rowdy evenings are rare on Sundays.
Watt’s Up? Europe’s electrical system is 220 volts, instead of North America’s 110 volts. Most newer electronics (such as laptops, battery chargers, and hair dryers) convert automatically, so you won’t need a converter, but you will need an adapter plug with two round prongs, sold inexpensively at travel stores in the US. Avoid bringing older appliances that don’t automatically convert voltage; instead, buy a cheap replacement in Europe.
Discounts: Discounts are not listed in this book. However, many sights offer discounts for youths (up to age 18), students (with proper identification cards, www.isic.org), families, seniors (loosely defined as retirees or those willing to call themselves seniors), and groups of 10 or more. Always ask. Italy’s national museums generally offer free admission to children under 18, but some discounts are available only for citizens of the European Union (EU).
Online Translation Tip: You can use Google’s Chrome browser (available free at www.google.com/chrome) to instantly translate websites. With one click, the page appears in (very rough) English translation. You can also paste the URL of the site into the translation window at www.google.com/translate.
This section offers advice on how to pay for purchases on your trip (including getting cash from ATMs and paying with plastic), dealing with lost or stolen cards, VAT (sales tax) refunds, and tipping.
Bring both a credit card and a debit card. You’ll use the debit card at cash machines (ATMs) to withdraw local cash for most purchases, and the credit card to pay for larger items. Some travelers carry a third card as a backup, in case one gets demagnetized or eaten by a temperamental machine.
As an emergency backup, bring several hundred dollars in hard cash in $20 bills. If you have to exchange the bills, go to a bank; avoid using currency-exchange booths because of their lousy rates and/or outrageous fees.
Cash is just as desirable in Europe as it is at home. Small businesses (hotels, restaurants, shops, etc.) prefer that you pay your bills with cash. Some vendors will charge you extra for using a credit card, and some won’t take credit cards at all. Cash is the best—and sometimes only—way to pay for bus fare, taxis, sights, and local guides.
Throughout Europe, ATMs are the standard way for travelers to get cash. Most ATMs in Italy are located outside a bank. But stay away from “independent” ATMs such as Travelex, Euronet, or Forex, which charge huge commissions and have terrible exchange rates.
Here are some ideas to help stretch your travel dollars:
• Many of Florence’s sights and activities are free. There is no charge for entry to the Duomo, Orsanmichele Church, Santo Spirito Church, and San Miniato Church. It’s free to visit the leather school at Santa Croce Church and the perfumery near the Church of Santa Maria Novella. The three markets (Centrale for produce, Nuovo and San Lorenzo for goods) are fun to browse through.
• Free public spaces include the Uffizi and Palazzo Vecchio courtyards; the art-filled loggia on Piazza della Signoria; and Piazzale Michelangelo, with glorious views over Florence. A walk across the picturesque Ponte Vecchio costs nothing at all—unless you succumb to temptation at one of the many shops along the way. A stroll anywhere in Florence with a gelato in hand is an inexpensive treat. (This book contains information on all of these options.)
• Remember you can download lots of free information from Rick Steves Audio Europe; see here.
• Choose hotels that offer a Rick Steves discount.
• Offer to pay cash to get the lowest rate.
• Don’t order too much at restaurants. Servings are often big—and splittable. While restaurants frown on a couple splitting just one dish, if you and your travel partner order a selection of dishes and enjoy them family-style, you can sample several different things, save some euros, and still have room for gelato. Sharing a €8 pizza makes for a cheap meal.
• Order take-out from delicatessens. Many shops have ready-to-eat entrées and side dishes, and will heat them up and send you on your way with plastic cutlery and napkins. Find a scenic picnic spot and enjoy your feast, having paid just a fraction of what you’d pay to eat in a restaurant.
To withdraw money from an ATM (known as a bancomat), you’ll need a debit card (ideally with a Visa or MasterCard logo for maximum usability), plus a PIN code. Know your PIN code in numbers; there are only numbers—no letters—on European keypads. Although you can use a credit card for an ATM transaction, it only makes sense in an emergency, because it’s considered a cash advance (borrowed at a high interest rate) rather than a withdrawal. Try to withdraw large sums of money to reduce the number of pertransaction bank fees you’ll pay.
For increased security, shield the keypad when entering your PIN code, and don’t use an ATM if anything on the front of the machine looks loose or damaged (a sign that someone may have attached a “skimming” device to capture account information). It’s a good idea to monitor your account while traveling to detect any unauthorized transactions.
Pickpockets target tourists. To safeguard your cash, wear a money belt—a pouch with a strap that you buckle around your waist like a belt and tuck under your clothes. Keep your cash, credit cards, and passport secure in your money belt, and carry only a day’s spending money in your front pocket.
For purchases, Visa and MasterCard are more commonly accepted than American Express. Just like at home, credit or debit cards work easily at larger hotels, restaurants, and shops. I typically use my debit card to withdraw cash to pay for most purchases. I use my credit card only in a few specific situations: to book hotel reservations by phone, to cover major expenses (such as car rentals, plane tickets, and long hotel stays), and to pay for things near the end of my trip (to avoid another visit to the ATM). While you could use a debit card to make most large purchases, using a credit card offers a greater degree of fraud protection (because debit cards draw funds directly from your account).
Ask Your Credit- or Debit-Card Company: Before your trip, contact the company that issued your debit or credit cards.
• Confirm your card will work overseas, and alert them that you’ll be using it in Europe; otherwise, they may deny transactions if they perceive unusual spending patterns.
• Ask for the specifics on transaction fees. When you use your credit or debit card—either for purchases or ATM withdrawals—you’ll typically be charged additional “international transaction” fees of up to 3 percent (1 percent is normal) plus $5 per transaction. If your card’s fees are too high, consider getting a card just for your trip: Capital One (www.capitalone.com) and most credit unions have low-to-no international fees.
• If you plan to withdraw cash from ATMs, confirm your daily withdrawal limit, and if necessary, ask your bank to adjust it. Some travelers prefer a high limit that allows them to take out more cash at each ATM stop (saving on transaction fees), while others prefer to set a lower limit in case their card is stolen. Note that foreign banks also set maximum withdrawal amounts for their ATMs.
• Get your bank’s emergency phone number in the US (but not its 800 number, which isn’t accessible from overseas) to call collect if you have a problem.
• Ask for your credit card’s PIN in case you need to make an emergency cash withdrawal or encounter Europe’s “chip and PIN” system; the bank won’t tell you your PIN over the phone, so allow time for it to be mailed to you.
Chip and PIN: While much of Europe is shifting to a “chip-and-PIN” security system for credit and debit cards, Italy still uses the old magnetic-swipe technology. (European chip-and-PIN cards are embedded with an electronic security chip, and require the purchaser to punch in a PIN rather than sign a receipt.) If you happen to encounter chip and PIN, it will probably be at automated payment machines, such as those at toll roads or self-serve gas pumps. On the outside chance that a machine won’t take your card, find a cashier who can make your card work (they can print a receipt for you to sign), or find a machine that takes cash. But don’t panic. Most travelers who are carrying only magnetic-stripe cards never encounter any problems. You can always use an ATM with your magnetic-stripe card, even in countries where people predominantly use chip-and-PIN cards.
Dynamic Currency Conversion: If merchants offer to convert your purchase price into dollars (called dynamic currency conversion, or DCC), refuse this “service.” You’ll pay even more in fees for the expensive convenience of seeing your charge in dollars.
If you lose your credit, debit, or ATM card, you can stop people from using your card by reporting the loss immediately to the respective global customer-assistance centers. Call these 24-hour US numbers collect: Visa (tel. 303/967-1096), MasterCard (tel. 636/722-7111), and American Express (tel. 623/492-8427). In Italy, to make a collect call to the US, dial 800-172-444 (press zero or stay on the line for an English-speaking operator). European toll-free numbers (listed by country) can also be found at the websites for Visa and MasterCard.
Providing the following information allows for a quicker cancellation of your missing card: full card number, whether you are the primary or secondary cardholder, the cardholder’s name exactly as printed on the card, billing address, home phone number, circumstances of the loss or theft, and identification verification (your birth date, your mother’s maiden name, or your Social Security number—memorize this, don’t carry a copy). If you are the secondary cardholder, you’ll also need to provide the primary cardholder’s identification-verification details. You can generally receive a temporary card within two or three business days in Europe (see www.ricksteves.com/help for more).
If you report your loss within two days, you typically won’t be responsible for any unauthorized transactions on your account, although many banks charge a liability fee of $50.
Tipping in Italy isn’t as automatic and generous as it is in the US, but for special service, tips are appreciated, if not expected. As in the US, the proper amount depends on your resources, tipping philosophy, and the circumstances, but some general guidelines apply.
Restaurants: In Italy, a service charge (servizio) is usually built into your bill, so the total you pay already includes a basic tip. It’s up to you whether to tip beyond this. For details on restaurant tipping, see here.
Taxis: To tip the cabbie, round up. For a typical ride, round up your fare a bit (for instance, if the fare is €4.50, pay €5). If the cabbie hauls your bags and zips you to the airport to help you catch your flight, you might want to toss in a little more. But if you feel like you’re being driven in circles or otherwise ripped off, skip the tip.
Services: In general, if someone in the service industry does a super job for you, a small tip of a euro or two is appropriate...but not required. If you’re not sure whether (or how much) to tip for a service, ask your hotelier or the TI.
Wrapped into the purchase price of your Italian souvenirs is a Value-Added Tax (VAT) of about 22 percent. You’re entitled to get most of that tax back if you purchase more than €155 (about $200) worth of goods at a store that participates in the VAT-refund scheme. Typically, you must ring up the minimum at a single retailer—you can’t add up your purchases from various shops to reach the required amount.
Getting your refund is usually straightforward and, if you buy a substantial amount of souvenirs, well worth the hassle. If you’re lucky, the merchant will subtract the tax when you make your purchase. (This is more likely to occur if the store ships the goods to your home.) Otherwise, you’ll need to:
Get the paperwork. Have the merchant completely fill out the necessary refund document. You’ll have to present your passport. Get the paperwork done before you leave the store to ensure you’ll have everything you need (including your original sales receipt).
Get your stamp at the border or airport. Process your VAT document at your last stop in the European Union (such as at the airport) with the customs agent who deals with VAT refunds. Before checking in for your flight, find the local customs office, and be prepared to stand in line. Keep your purchases readily available for viewing by the customs agent (ideally in your carry-on bag—don’t make the mistake of checking the bag with your purchases before you’ve seen the agent). You’re not supposed to use your purchased goods before you leave. If you show up at customs wearing your new leather shoes, officials might look the other way—or deny you a refund.
Collect your refund. You’ll need to return your stamped document to the retailer or its representative. Many merchants work with a service, such as Global Blue or Premier Tax Free, that has offices at major airports, ports, or border crossings (either before or after security, probably strategically located near a duty-free shop). These services, which extract a 4 percent fee, can refund your money immediately in cash or credit your card (within two billing cycles). If the retailer handles VAT refunds directly, it’s up to you to contact the merchant for your refund. You can mail the documents from home, or more quickly, from your point of departure (using an envelope you’ve prepared in advance or one that’s been provided by the merchant). You’ll then have to wait—it can take months.
You are allowed to take home $800 worth of items per person duty-free, once every 30 days. You can also bring in duty-free a liter of alcohol. As for food, you can take home many processed and packaged foods: vacuum-packed cheeses, dried herbs, jams, baked goods, candy, chocolate, oil, vinegar, mustard, and honey. Fresh fruits and vegetables and most meats are not allowed. Any liquid-containing foods must be packed in checked luggage, a potential recipe for disaster. To check customs rules and duty rates, visit http://help.cbp.gov.
Sightseeing can be hard work. Use these tips to make your visits to Florence and Tuscany’s finest sights meaningful, fun, efficient, and painless.
Set up an itinerary that allows you to fit in all your must-see sights. For a one-stop look at opening hours in Florence, see “Florence at a Glance” on here (also see “Daily Reminder” on here). You’ll find “Siena at a Glance” on here. Most sights keep stable hours, but you can easily confirm the latest by checking with the TI or visiting museum websites.
For Florence, make reservations for the Uffizi and Accademia (see here) or plan to get a Firenze Card (see here).
Don’t put off visiting a must-see sight—you never know when a place will close unexpectedly for a holiday, strike, or restoration. Many museums are closed or have reduced hours at least a few days a year, especially on holidays such as Christmas, New Year’s, and Labor Day (May 1). A list of holidays is on here; check museum websites for possible closures during your trip. In summer, some sights may stay open late. Off-season, many museums have shorter hours.
Going at the right time helps avoid crowds. This book offers tips on the best times to see specific sights. Try visiting popular sights very early or very late. Evening visits are usually peaceful, with fewer crowds.
Study up. To get the most out of the self-guided tours and sight descriptions in this book, read them before you visit.
Here’s what you can typically expect:
Some important sights require you to check daypacks and coats. To avoid checking a small backpack, carry it under your arm like a purse as you enter. From a guard’s point of view, a backpack is generally a problem while a purse is not.
Flash photography is often banned to prevent damage to delicate artworks, but taking photos without a flash is usually allowed (look for signs or ask a guard). Even without a flash, a handheld camera will take a decent picture (or buy postcards or posters at the museum bookstore).
You may have to pay cash for the admission fee; some sights don’t take credit cards or occasionally their machines don’t work. Museums may show special exhibits in addition to their permanent collection. Some exhibits are included in the entry price, while others come at an extra cost (which you may have to pay even if you don’t want to see the exhibit).
Expect changes—artwork can be on tour, on loan, out sick, or shifted at the whim of the curator. To adapt, pick up a floor plan as you enter, and ask the museum staff if you can’t find a particular item. Say the title or artist’s name, or point to the photograph in this book and ask, “Dov’è?” (doh-VEH, meaning “Where is?”).
Many sights rent audioguides, which generally offer excellent recorded descriptions of the art in English (about $7). Bring along your own earbuds to enjoy better sound and avoid holding the device to your ear. To save money, bring a Y-jack and share one audioguide with your travel partner. I’ve produced free downloadable audio tours of Florence’s major sights; see here.
It helps to know the terms. Art historians and Italians refer to the great Florentine centuries by dropping a thousand years. The Trecento (300s), Quattrocento (400s), and Cinquecento (500s) were the 1300s, 1400s, and 1500s. In Italian museums, art is dated with sec for secolo (century, often indicated with Roman numerals), A.C. (avanti Cristo, or B.C.), and D.C. (dopo Cristo, or A.D.). O.K.?
Important sights may have an on-site café or cafeteria (usually a good place to rejuvenate during a long visit). The WCs at sights are free and generally clean.
Many places sell postcards that highlight their attractions. Before you leave a sight, scan the postcards and thumb through the biggest guidebook (or skim its index) to be sure you haven’t overlooked something that you’d like to see.
Most sights stop admitting people 30 to 60 minutes before closing time, and some rooms may close early (often about 45 minutes before the actual closing time). Guards usher people out, so don’t save the best for last.
Every sight or museum offers more than what is covered in this book. Use the information in this book as an introduction—not the final word.
Churches offer some amazing art (usually free), a cool respite from heat, and a welcome seat.
A modest dress code (no bare shoulders or shorts for anyone, even kids) is enforced at larger churches, but is often overlooked elsewhere. If you’re caught by surprise, you can improvise, using maps to cover your shoulders and a jacket for your knees. A few major churches let you borrow or buy disposable ponchos to cover up in a pinch. (I wear a super-lightweight pair of long pants rather than shorts for my hot and muggy big-city Italian sightseeing.)
Some churches have coin-operated audioboxes that describe the art and history; just set the dial on English, put in your coins, and listen. Coin boxes near a piece of art illuminate the art (and present a better photo opportunity). I pop in a coin whenever I can. It improves my experience, is a favor to other visitors trying to appreciate a great piece of art in the dark, and is a little contribution to that church and its work. Whenever possible, let there be light.
I favor hotels and restaurants that are handy to your sightseeing activities. Nearly all of my recommended accommodations are located in city or town centers, within minutes of the great sights. (To stay in the countryside, try agriturismo farmhouses; for more information on these rural B&Bs, see here.)
A major feature of this book is its extensive listing of good-value rooms. I like places that are clean, central, relatively quiet at night, reasonably priced, friendly, small enough to have a hands-on owner and stable staff, run with a respect for Italian traditions, and not listed in other guidebooks. (In Florence and Tuscany, for me, six out of these eight criteria means it’s a keeper.) I’m more impressed by a convenient location and a fun-loving philosophy than flat-screen TVs and a pricey laundry service.
Book your accommodations well in advance if you’ll be traveling during busy times. See here for a list of major holidays and festivals in Tuscany; for tips on making reservations, see here.
I’ve described my recommended accommodations using a Sleep Code (see sidebar). Prices listed are for one-night stays in peak season, and assume you’re booking directly (not through a TI or online hotel-booking engine). Booking services extract a commission from the hotel, which logically closes the door on special deals. Book direct.
While most taxes are included in the price, a variable city tax of €1-4/person per night is often added to hotel bills (and is not included in the prices in this book).
Many hotels use “dynamic pricing,” which means room rates change from day to day depending on demand. This makes it extremely difficult to predict what you will pay. For many hotels, I list a range of prices. If the rate you’re offered is at or near the bottom of my printed range, it’s likely a good deal.
Given the economic downturn, hoteliers are often willing and eager to make a deal. I’d suggest emailing several hotels to ask for their best price. Comparison-shop and make your choice.
As you look over the listings, you’ll notice that some accommodations promise special prices to Rick Steves readers who book directly with the hotel. To get these rates, you must mention this book when you reserve, and then show the book upon arrival. Rick Steves discounts apply to readers with ebooks as well as printed books. Because we trust hotels to honor this, please let me know if you don’t receive a listed discount. Note, though, that discounts understandably may not be applied to promotional rates.
In general, prices can soften if you do any of the following: offer to pay cash, stay at least three nights, or mention this book. You can also try asking for a cheaper room or a discount, or offer to skip breakfast.
In Florence, you can snare a stark, clean, and comfortable double with breakfast and a private bath for about €100. You get nearelegance in peak season for €170.
Solo travelers find that the cost of a camera singola is often only 25 percent less than a camera doppia. Three or four people can save money by requesting one big room. (If a Db is €110, a Qb would be about €150.) Most listed hotels have rooms for any size party from one to five people. If there’s room for an extra cot, they’ll cram it in for you (charging you around €25).
You’ll save €30/night if you book a room with the shower down the hall. Generally rooms with a bath or shower also have a toilet and a bidet (which Italians use for quick sponge baths). The cord that dangles over the tub or shower is not a clothesline. You pull it when you’ve fallen and can’t get up.
Double beds are called matrimoniale, even though hotels aren’t interested in your marital status. Twins are due letti singoli. Convents offer cheap accommodation but only letti singoli.
When you check in, the receptionist will normally ask for your passport and keep it for anywhere from a couple of minutes to a couple of hours. Hotels are legally required to register each guest with the police. Relax. Americans are notorious for making this chore more difficult than it needs to be.
Hotels and B&Bs are sometimes located on the higher floors of a multipurpose building with a secured door. In that case, look for your hotel’s name on the buttons by the main entrance. When you ring the bell, you’ll be buzzed in. Hotel elevators are becoming more common, but are often very small—pack light, or you may need to send your bags up separately.
Assume that breakfast is included in the prices I’ve listed, unless otherwise noted. If breakfast is included but optional, you may want to skip it. While convenient, it’s usually expensive—€5-8 per person for a simple continental buffet with ham, cheese, yogurt, and unlimited caffè latte. A picnic in your room followed by a coffee at the corner café can be cheaper.
More pillows and blankets are usually in the closet or available on request. In Italy, towels and linen aren’t always replaced every day. Hang your towel up to dry. Some hotels use lightweight “waffle,” or very thin, tablecloth-type towels; these take less water and electricity to launder and are preferred by many Italians.
Most hotel rooms have a TV, telephone, and Wi-Fi; sometimes there’s a guest computer in the lobby. Simpler places rarely have a room phone, but often have Wi-Fi. Pricier hotels usually come with elevators, air-conditioning, and a small stocked fridge called a frigo bar (FREE-goh bar; pay for what you use). Hotel elevators, while becoming more common, are often very small—pack light, or you may need to send your bags up separately.
Because Europeans are generally careful with energy use, you’ll find government-enforced limits on heating and air-conditioning. (There’s a one-month period each spring and fall when neither is allowed.) Air-conditioning sometimes costs an extra per-day charge, is worth seeking out in summer (though it may be available only at certain times of the day), and is rarely available from fall through spring. Most hotel rooms with air-conditioners come with a control stick (like a TV remote) that generally has the same symbols and features: fan icon (click to toggle), louver icon (choose steady airflow or waves), snowflake/sunshine icons (cold air or heat, depending on season), clock (“O” setting: run x hours before turning off; “I” setting: wait x hours to start), and the temperature control (21 degrees Celsius is comfortable).
Reserve your rooms several weeks in advance—or as soon as you’ve pinned down your travel dates—particularly if you’ll be traveling during peak times. Note that some national holidays jam things up and merit your making reservations far in advance (see “Holidays and Festivals” on here).
Requesting a Reservation: It’s usually easiest to book your room through the hotel’s website. Many have a reservation-request form built right in. (For the best rates, be sure to use the hotel’s official site and not a booking agency’s site.) Simpler websites will generate an email to the hotelier with your request. If there’s no reservation form, or for complicated requests, send an email. Most recommended hotels are accustomed to guests who speak only English.
The hotelier wants to know:
• the number and type of rooms you need
• the number of nights you’ll stay
• your date of arrival
• your date of departure
• any special needs (such as bathroom in the room or down the hall, cheapest room, twin beds vs. double bed, crib, air-conditioning, quiet, view, ground floor or no stairs, and so on)
If you request a room by email, use the European style for writing dates: day/month/year. For example, for a two-night stay in July of 2014, ask for “1 double room for 2 nights, arrive 16/07/14, depart 18/07/14.” Make sure you mention any discounts—for Rick Steves readers or otherwise—when you make the reservation.
Confirming a Reservation: When the hotel replies with its room availability and rates, just email back to confirm your reservation. Most places will request a credit-card number to hold your room. While you can email it (I do), it’s safer to share that confidential info via a phone call, two emails (splitting your number between them), or the hotel’s secure online reservation form. On the small chance that a hotel loses track of your reservation, bring along a hard copy of their confirmation.
Canceling a Reservation: If you must cancel your reservation, it’s courteous—and smart—to do so with as much notice as possible, especially for smaller family-run places. Simply make a quick phone call or send an email. Request confirmation of your cancellation in case you are accidentally billed.
Be warned that cancellation policies can be strict; read the fine print or ask about these before you book. For example, if you cancel on short notice, you could lose your deposit, or be billed for one night or even your entire stay. Internet deals may require prepayment, with no refunds for cancellations.
Reconfirming a Reservation: Call to reconfirm your room reservation a few days in advance. Smaller hotels and B&Bs appreciate knowing your estimated time of arrival. If you’ll be arriving late (after 17:00), let them know.
Reserving Rooms as You Travel: You can make reservations as you travel, calling hotels a few days to a week before your arrival. If you’d rather travel without any reservations at all, you’ll have greater success snaring rooms if you arrive at your destination early in the day. When you anticipate crowds (weekends are worst), call hotels at about 9:00 or 10:00 on the day you plan to arrive, when the receptionist knows who’ll be checking out and which rooms will be available. If you encounter a language barrier, ask the fluent receptionist at your current hotel to call for you.
Phoning: For tips on how to call hotels overseas, see here.
If you’re arriving early in the morning, your room probably won’t be ready. You can drop your bag safely at the hotel and dive right into sightseeing.
Hoteliers can be a great help and source of advice. Most know their cities well, and can assist you with everything from public transit and airport connections to finding a good restaurant, the nearest launderette, or café with Wi-Fi.
Even at the best places, mechanical breakdowns occur: Air-conditioning malfunctions, sinks leak, hot water turns cold, and toilets gurgle and smell. Report your concerns clearly and calmly at the front desk. For more complicated problems, don’t expect instant results.
If you suspect night noise will be a problem (if, for instance, your room is over a nightclub), ask for a quieter room in the back or on an upper floor. To guard against theft in your room, keep valuables out of sight. Some rooms come with a safe, and other hotels have safes at the front desk. I’ve never bothered using one.
Checkout can pose problems if surprise charges pop up on your bill. If you settle your bill the afternoon before you leave, you’ll have time to discuss and address any points of contention (before 19:00, when the night shift usually arrives).
Above all, keep a positive attitude. Remember, you’re on vacation. If your hotel is a disappointment, spend more time out enjoying the city you came to see.
You’ll pay about €20 per bed to stay at a hostel. Travelers of any age are welcome if they don’t mind dorm-style accommodations and meeting other travelers. Most hostels offer kitchen facilities, Internet access, Wi-Fi, and a self-service laundry. Nowadays, concerned about bedbugs, hostels are likely to provide all bedding, including sheets. Family and private rooms may be available on request.
Independent hostels tend to be easygoing, colorful, and informal (no membership required); hostelworld.com is the standard way backpackers search and book hostels these days, but also try www.hostelz.com, www.hostels.com, and www.hostelbookers.com.
Official hostels are part of Hostelling International (HI) and share an online booking site (www.hihostels.com). HI hostels typically require that you either have a membership card or pay extra per night.
For information on staying at a rural B&B (agriturismo) in Tuscany, see here.
Whether you’re in a city or the countryside, renting an apartment, house, or villa can be a fun and cost-effective way to delve into Europe. Websites such as HomeAway.com and its sister site VRBO.com let you correspond directly with European property owners or managers.
Airbnb.com makes it reasonably easy to find a place to sleep in someone’s home. Beds range from air-mattress-in-living-room basic to plush-B&B-suite posh. If you want a place to sleep that’s free, Couchsurfing.com is a vagabond’s alternative to Airbnb. It lists millions of outgoing members, who host fellow “surfers” in their homes.
The Italians are masters of the art of fine living. That means eating long and well. Lengthy, multicourse meals and endless hours sitting in outdoor cafés are the norm. Americans eat on their way to an evening event and complain if the check is slow in coming. For Italians, the meal is an end in itself, and only rude waiters rush you. When you want the bill, mime-scribble on your raised palm or request it: “Il conto, per favore.” You may have to ask for it more than once. If you’re in a hurry, request the check when you receive the last item you’ve ordered.
A highlight of your Italian adventure will be this country’s cafés, cuisine, and wines. Trust me: This is sightseeing for your palate. Even if you liked dorm food and are sleeping in cheap hotels, your taste buds will relish an occasional first-class splurge. You can eat well without going broke. But be careful: You’re just as likely to blow a small fortune on a disappointing meal as you are to dine wonderfully for €25. Your euros typically will go much farther, and will net you far better food, in smaller Tuscan towns than in Florence.
In general, Italians eat meals a bit later than we do. At 7:00 or 8:00 in the morning, they have a light breakfast (coffee and a roll, often standing up at a café). Lunch, which is usually the main meal of the day, begins around 13:00 and can last for a couple of hours. Then they eat a late, light dinner (around 20:00-21:30, or maybe earlier in winter). To bridge the gap, people drop into a bar in the late afternoon for a spuntino (snack) and aperitif.
Don’t expect all-day service at restaurants. Most kitchens close between their lunch and dinner service. Good restaurants don’t reopen for dinner before 19:00.
Italian breakfasts, like Italian bath towels, are small: The basic, traditional version is coffee and a roll with butter and marmalade. These days, many places also have juice, yogurt, maybe cereal, possibly cold cuts and sliced cheese, and sometimes eggs (typically hard-boiled; scrambled or fried eggs are rare). Small budget hotels may leave a basic breakfast in a fridge in your room (stale croissant, roll, jam, yogurt, coffee). In general, the pricier the hotel, the bigger the breakfast.
The strong coffee at breakfast is often mixed about half-and-half with heated milk. At your hotel, refills are usually free. The delicious red orange juice (spremuta di arance rosse) is made from Sicilian blood oranges.
Italian cooks love to serve you fresh produce and seafood at its tastiest. If you must have porcini mushrooms outside of October and November, they’ll be frozen. To get the freshest veggies at a fine restaurant, request “Il piatto di verdure della stagione, per favore” (“A plate of seasonal vegetables, please”).
Here are a few examples of what’s fresh when:
| April-May: | Squid, green beans, asparagus, artichokes, and zucchini flowers |
| April-May and Sept-Oct: | Black truffles |
| May-June: | Asparagus, zucchini, cantaloupe, and strawberries |
| May-Aug: | Eggplant |
| Oct-Nov: | Mushrooms and white truffles |
| Fresh year-round: | Clams and meats |
If you want to skip your hotel breakfast, consider browsing for a morning picnic at a local open-air market. Or do as the Italians do: Stop into a bar or café to drink a cappuccino and munch a cornetto (croissant) while standing at the bar. While the cornetto is the most common pastry, you’ll find a range of pasticcini (pastries, sometimes called dolci—”sweets”). Look for otto (“8”-shaped pastry, often filled with custard, jam, or chocolate), sfoglia (can be fruit-filled, like a turnover), or ciambella (doughnut filled with custard or chocolate)—or ask about local specialties.
While ristorante is self-explanatory, you’ll also see other types of Italian eateries: A trattoria and an osteria (which can be more casual) are generally family-owned places serving home-cooked meals, often at moderate prices. A locanda is an inn, a cantina is a wine cellar, and a birreria is a brewpub. Pizzerie, rosticcerie (delis), enoteche (wine bars), and other alternatives are explained later.
When restaurant-hunting, choose places filled with locals, not places with big neon signs boasting “We Speak English and Accept Credit Cards.” Restaurants parked on famous squares generally serve bad food at high prices to tourists. Venturing even a block or two off the main drag leads to higher-quality food for less than half the price of the tourist-oriented places. Locals eat better at lower-rent locales. Family-run places operate without hired help and can offer cheaper meals.
Before you sit down, look at a menu to see what extra charges a restaurant tacks on. Two different items are routinely factored into your bill: the coperto and the servizio.
The coperto (cover charge), sometimes called pane e coperto (bread and cover), offsets the overhead expenses from the basket of bread on your table to the electricity running the dishwasher. It’s not negotiable, even if you don’t eat the bread. Think of it as covering the cost of using the table for as long as you like. (Italians like to linger.) Most restaurants add the coperto onto your bill as a flat fee (€1-3.50 per person; the amount should be clearly noted on the menu).
The servizio (service charge) of about 10 percent pays for the waitstaff. At most legitimate eateries, the words servizio incluso are written on the menu and/or the receipt—indicating that the listed prices already include the fee. You can add on a tip, if you choose, by including €1-2 for each person in your party. While Italians don’t think about tips in terms of percentages—and many don’t tip at all—this extra amount usually comes out to about 5 percent (10 percent is excessive for all but the very best service).
If you see the words servizio non incluso on the menu or bill, you are expected to add a tip of about 10 percent. A few trendy restaurants don’t include the service in the menu prices—but will automatically tack on a 10 percent servizio charge to your bill.
Most good-value eateries have a cover charge, and the service is already included in the menu prices (i.e., servizio incluso). Places with both a cover and a tacked-on service charge are best avoided—that’s a clue that a restaurant is counting on a nonlocal clientele who can’t gauge value. The same goes for the opposite: Places that advertise “no cover, no service charge” to attract tourists are likely raising their prices to compensate.
A full Italian meal consists of several courses:
Antipasto (usually €5-10): An appetizer such as bruschetta, grilled veggies, deep-fried tasties, thin-sliced meat (such as prosciutto or carpaccio), or a plate of olives, cold cuts, and cheeses. A plate of antipasti misti (“mixed”—an assortment) could make a light meal in itself.
Primo piatto (usually €7-15): A “first dish” generally consisting of pasta, rice, or soup. If you think of pasta when you think of Italy, you can dine well here without ever going beyond the primo.
Secondo piatto (usually €10-25): A “second dish,” equivalent to our main course, of meat or fish/seafood. Italians freely admit the secondo is the least interesting part of their cuisine.
A vegetable side dish (contorno) may come with the secondo but more often must be ordered separately (€5-6).
The euros can add up in a hurry, and for most travelers, a complete meal with all three courses (plus contorni, dessert, and wine) is simply too much food. To avoid overeating (and to stretch your budget), share dishes. A good rule of thumb is for each person to order any two courses. For example, a couple can order and share one antipasto, one primo, one secondo, and one dessert; or two antipasti and two primi; or whatever combination appeals.
Another good option is sharing an array of antipasti; you can order several specific dishes, or at restaurants that have self-serve antipasti buffets, you can choose from a variety of cooked appetizers spread out like a salad bar. You pay per plate, not by weight; a typical serving costs about €8 (generally Italians don’t treat buffets as all-you-can-eat, but take a one-time moderate serving; watch others and imitate).
To maximize the experience and flavors, small groups can mix antipasti and primi piatti family-style (skipping secondi). If you do this right (e.g., under-ordering because courses are often bigger than necessary), you can eat well in better places for less than the cost of a tourist menù in a cheap place.
Seafood and steak may be sold by weight (priced by the kilo—1,000 grams, or just over two pounds; or by the etto—100 grams). The abbreviation s.q. (secondo quantità) means an item is priced “according to quantity.” Unless the menu indicates a fillet (filetto), fish is usually served whole, with the head and tail. However, you can always ask your waiter to select a small fish for you. Sometimes, especially for steak, restaurants require a minimum order of four or five etti (which diners can share). Make sure you’re really clear on the price before ordering.
Some special dishes come in larger quantities meant to be shared by two people. The shorthand way of showing this on a menu is “X2” (for two), but the price listed generally indicates the cost per person.
If you order a pasta dish and a side salad—but no main course—the waiter will ask when you want the salad served (Italians prefer it after the pasta, believing that it enhances digestion). If you want the salad with your pasta, specify insieme (een-see-YEH-meh, “together”).
Because pasta and bread are both starches, Italians consider them redundant. If you order only a pasta dish, bread may not come with it; you can request it, but you may be charged extra. On the other hand, if you order a vegetable antipasto or a meat secondo, bread is often provided to balance the ingredients.
At places with counter service—such as at a bar or a freeway rest-stop diner—you’ll order and pay at the cassa (cashier). Take your receipt over to the counter to claim your food.
You can save by getting a fixed-priced meal, which is frequently exempt from cover and service charges. Avoid the cheapest ones (often called a menù turistico), which tend to be bland and heavy, pairing a very basic pasta with reheated schnitzel and roast meats. Look instead for a genuine menù del giorno (menu of the day), which offers diners a choice of appetizer, main course, and dessert. It’s worth paying a little more for an inventive fixed-price meal that shows off the chef’s creativity.
While fixed-price meals can be easy and convenient, galloping gourmets order à la carte with the help of a menu translator. (The Rick Steves’ Italian Phrase Book & Dictionary has a menu decoder with enough phrases for intermediate eaters.) When going to an especially good restaurant with an approachable staff, I like to find out what they’re eager to serve, or I’ll simply say, “Mi faccia felice” (Make me happy) and set a price limit.
Italy offers many budget options for hungry travelers, but beware of cheap eateries that sport big color photos of pizza and piles of different pastas. They have no kitchens and simply microwave disgusting prepackaged food.
Self-service cafeterias offer the basics without add-on charges. Those on a hard-core budget equip their room with a pantry stocked at the market (fruits and veggies are remarkably cheap) or pick up a kebab (or the equivalent), then dine in at picnic prices. Bars and cafés, described later, are another good place to grab a meal on the go.
Pizza is cheap and readily available. Stop by a pizza shop for stand-up or take-out pizza (pizza al taglio means “by the slice”). While some shops sell individual slices of round, Naples-style pizza, you’ll more likely see pizza rustica—thick pizza baked in a large rectangular pan and sold by weight. If you simply ask for a piece, you may be handed a gigantic slab and charged top euro. Instead, clearly indicate how much you want: 100 grams, or un etto, is a hot and cheap snack; 200 grams, or due etti, makes a light meal. Or show the size with your hands—tanto così (TAHN-toh koh-ZEE) means “this much.”
Key pizza vocabulary: capricciosa (“chef’s choice,” generally prosciutto, mushrooms, olives, and artichokes), funghi (mushrooms), marinara (tomato sauce, oregano, garlic, no cheese), napoletana (mozzarella, anchovies, and tomato sauce), vegetariana or ortolana (“greengrocer-style,” with vegetables), quattro formaggi (four different cheeses), and quattro stagioni (different toppings on each of the four quarters, for those who can’t choose just one menu item). If you ask for pepperoni on your pizza, you’ll get peperoni (green or red peppers, not sausage); request diavola or salsiccia piccante instead (the closest thing in Italy to American pepperoni). Kids like the bland margherita (tomato sauce, mozzarella, and basil—the red, white, and green of the Italian flag). Pizza bianca (or pizza ciaccina) is “white” pizza, with no tomatoes.
Italian “bars” are not taverns, but inexpensive cafés. These neighborhood hangouts serve coffee, mini-pizzas, premade sandwiches, and drinks from the cooler. Many dish up plates of fried cheese and vegetables from under the glass counter, ready to reheat. This budget choice is the Italian equivalent of English pub grub.
Food: For quick meals, bars usually have trays of cheap, premade sandwiches (panini, on a baguette; piadini, on flatbread; or tramezzini, on crustless white bread)—some are delightful grilled. (Others have too much mayo.) To save time for sightseeing and room for dinner, stop by a bar for a light lunch, such as a ham-and-cheese sandwich (called toast); have it grilled twice if you want it really hot. To get food “to go,” say, “da portar via” (for the road). Many bars are small—if you can’t find a table, you’ll need to stand up or find a ledge to sit on outside. Most charge extra for table service (see next). All bars have a WC (toilette, bagno) in the back, and customers—and the discreet public—can use it.
Prices and Paying: You’ll notice a two- or three-tiered pricing system. Drinking a cup of coffee while standing at the bar is cheaper than drinking it at an indoor table (you’ll pay still more at an outdoor table). Many places have a lista dei prezzi (price list) with two columns—al bar and al tavolo (table)—posted somewhere by the bar or cash register. If you’re on a budget, don’t sit down without first checking out the financial consequences. Ask, “Same price if I sit or stand?” by saying, “Costa uguale al tavolo o al banco?” (KOH-stah oo-GWAH-lay ahl TAH-voh-loh oh ahl BAHN-koh). Throughout Italy, you can get cheap coffee at the bar of any establishment, no matter how fancy, and pay the same low, government-regulated price (generally only a euro if you stand).
If the bar isn’t busy, you can probably just order and pay when you leave. Otherwise: 1) Decide what you want; 2) find out the price by checking the price list on the wall, the prices posted near the food, or by asking the barista; 3) pay the cashier; and 4) give the receipt to the barista (whose clean fingers handle no dirty euros) and tell him or her what you want.
For more on drinking, see “Beverages,” later.
Perhaps the best value in some cities—such as Venice and Florence—for a cheap, hot meal is a döner kebab. Look for little hole-in-the-wall kebab shops, where you can get a hearty take-out dinner wrapped in pita bread for €3.50. Pay an extra euro to super-size it, and it’ll feed two. Ask locally for the favorite place in your neighborhood, as the quality can vary substantially.
For a fast and cheap lunch, find an Italian variation on the corner deli: a rosticceria (specializing in roasted meats and accompanying antipasti). For a healthy light meal, ask for a mixed plate of vegetables with a hunk of mozzarella (piatto misto di verdure con mozzarella). Don’t be limited by what’s displayed. If you’d like a salad with a slice of cantaloupe and a hunk of cheese, they’ll whip that up for you in a snap. Belly up to the bar and, with a pointing finger and key words in the chart above, you can get a fine mixed plate of vegetables. If something’s a mystery, ask for un assaggio (oon ah-SAH-joh) to get a little taste.
Wine bars (enoteche) are a popular, fast option for lunch. Surrounded by the office crowd, you can get a fancy salad, a plate of meats and cheeses, and a glass of fine wine (see blackboards for the day’s selection and price per glass—and go for the top end). A good enoteca aims to impress visitors with its wine, and will generally choose excellent-quality ingredients for the simple dishes it offers with the wine (though the prices add up—be careful with your ordering to keep this a budget choice).
Another budget option is to drop by an alimentari (neighborhood grocery) or salumeria (delicatessen) to pick up some cold cuts, cheeses, and other supplies for a picnic. Some salumerie, and any paninoteca or foccaceria (sandwich shop), can make you a sandwich to order. Just point to what you want, and they’ll stuff it into a panino (baguette); if you want it heated, say, “scaldare, per favore” (skahl-DAH-ray pehr fah-VOH-ray). To get a sampler plate of cold cuts and cheeses in a restaurant, ask for affettato misto (mixed cold cuts), antipasto misto (cold cuts, cheeses, and marinated vegetables), or—in Tuscany—tagliere (a sampler “board”).
Salumi (“salted” meats), also called affettati (“cut” meats), are an Italian staple. While most American cold cuts are cooked, in Italy they’re far more commonly cured by air-drying, salting, and smoking. (Don’t worry; these so-called “raw” meats are safe to eat, and you can really taste the difference.)
The two most familiar types of salumi are salame and prosciutto. Salame is an air-dried, sometimes spicy sausage that comes in many varieties, including finocchiona (with fennel seeds), salame piccante (spicy hot, similar to pepperoni), and salame di Sant’Olcese (what we’d call “Genoa salami”). When Italians say prosciutto, they usually mean prosciutto crudo—the “raw” ham that air-cures on the hock and is then thinly sliced. Produced mainly in the north of Italy, prosciutto can be either dolce (sweet) or salato (salty). Purists say the best is prosciutto di Parma.
Other salumi may be less familiar. Air-cured pork variations include culatello (prosciutto made with only the finest cuts of meat), capocollo (or coppa; peppery pork shoulder), speck (smoked pork shoulder), guanciale (tender pork cheek), and lonzino (cured pork loin). Pancetta—which can be eaten raw or added to cooked dishes—is salt-cured, peppery pork belly meat (similar to bacon). Mortadella, a finely ground pork loaf, is similar to our baloney, and bresaola is air-cured beef. But look out for testa in cassetta (headcheese—organs in aspic) and lampredotto—cow stomach that resembles a lamprey (eel), a traditional budget food in Tuscany.
As for formaggio (cheese), you’re probably already familiar with several Italian favorites: asiago (hard cow cheese that comes either mezzano—young, firm, and creamy; or stravecchio—aged, pungent, and granular); fontina (semi-hard, nutty, Gruyère-style mountain cheese); gorgonzola (pungent, blue-veined cheese, either dolce—creamy, or stagionato—aged and hard); mascarpone (sweet, buttery, spreadable dessert cheese); parmigiano-reggiano (hard, crumbly, sharp, aged cow cheese with more nuanced flavor than American “parmesan”; grana padano is a less expensive variation); pecorino (either fresco—fresh, soft, and mild; or stagionato—aged and sharp, sometimes called pecorino romano); provolone (rich, firm, aged cow cheese), ricotta (soft, airy cheese made by “recooking” leftover whey), and, of course, mozzarella. The best mozzarella is mozzarella di bufala, made from the milk of water buffaloes; other variations include burrata (a creamy mozzarella) and scamorza (similar to mozzarella, but often smoked).
Picnicking saves lots of euros and is a great way to sample regional specialties. A typical picnic for two might be fresh rolls, 100 grams (un etto, EH-toh, plural etti, EH-tee—about a quarter pound) of cheese, 100 grams of meat (sometimes ordered by the slice—fetta—or piece—pezzi; for two people, I might get cinque pezzi—five pieces—of prosciutto). Add two tomatoes, three carrots, two apples, yogurt, and a liter box of juice. Total cost: about €10.
In the process of assembling your meal, you get to deal with the Italians in the market scene. For a colorful experience, gather your ingredients in the morning at a produce market (Florence’s main one is the Mercato Centrale, near the Church of San Lorenzo); you’ll probably need to hit several market stalls to put together a complete meal (note that many stalls close in the early afternoon). While it’s fun to visit the small specialty shops, an alimentari is your one-stop corner grocery store (most will slice and stuff your sandwich for you if you buy the ingredients there). The rare supermercato (look for the Conad, Despar, and Co-op chains) gives you more efficiency with less color for less cost. At busier supermarkets you’ll need to take a number for deli service.
Juice lovers can get a liter of O.J. for the price of a Coke or coffee. Look for “100% succo” (juice) on the label—or be surprised by something diluted and sugary sweet. Hang on to the half-liter mineral-water bottles (sold everywhere for about €1). Buy juice in cheap liter boxes, then drink some and store the extra in your water bottle. (I refill my water bottle with tap water—acqua del rubinetto.)
Picnics can be an adventure in high cuisine. Be daring. Try the fresh mozzarella, presto pesto, shriveled olives, and any UFOs the locals are excited about. If ordering antipasti (such as grilled or marinated veggies) at a deli counter, you can ask for una porzione in a plastic take-away container (contenitore). Use gestures to show exactly how much you want. The word basta (BAH-stah)—“enough”—works as a question or as a statement.
Shopkeepers are happy to sell small quantities of produce, but it’s customary to let the merchant choose for you. Say “per oggi” (pehr OH-jee; “for today”) and he or she will grab you something ready to eat. To avoid being overcharged, know the cost per kilo and study the weighing procedure as if you’re doing the arithmetic.
Gelato is an edible art form—and it’s one souvenir that can’t break and won’t clutter your luggage. While American ice cream is made with cream and has a high butterfat content, Italian gelato is made with milk. It’s also churned more slowly, making it denser. Connoisseurs believe that because gelato has less air and less fat (which coats the mouth and blocks the taste buds), it’s more flavorful than American-style ice cream.
Stop by a gelateria and survey your options. A key to gelato appreciation is sampling liberally and choosing flavors that go well together. Ask, as Italians do, for “Un assaggio, per favore?” (A taste, please?; oon ah-SAH-joh pehr fah-VOH-ray) and “Quali gusti stanno bene insieme?” (What flavors go well together?; KWAH-lee GOO-stee STAH-noh BEH-nay een-see-EH-may).
Most gelaterie clearly display prices and sizes. In the textbook gelateria scam, the tourist orders two or three flavors—and the clerk selects a fancy, expensive chocolate-coated waffle cone, piles it high with huge scoops, and cheerfully charges the tourist €10. To avoid rip-offs, point to the price or say what you want: “Una coppetta da tre euro” (OO-nah ko-PEH-tah dah tray eh-OO-roh; a €3 cup).
Not all gelaterie are created equal. The best ones display signs reading artiginale, nostra produzione, or produzione propia, meaning the gelato is made on the premises. Seasonal flavors are also a good sign. Gelato stored in covered metal tins (rather than white plastic) is more likely to be homemade. Gelato aficionados avoid colors that don’t appear in nature; for fewer chemicals and real flavor, go for mellow hues.
As far as flavors, the sky’s the limit. Most gelaterie label each tub with the flavor (in Italian and, often, in English) and, sometimes, a little picture to help identify it. Aside from the typical crema (vanilla), cioccolato (chocolate), and fragola (strawberry), here are a few flavors worth trying: After Eight (chocolate and mint), bacio (chocolate hazelnut, named for Italy’s popular “kiss” candies), croccantino (“crunchy,” with toasted peanut bits), cassata (with dried fruits), fior di latte (sweet milk), macedonia (mixed fruits), riso (with actual bits of rice mixed in), malaga (similar to rum raisin), tartufo (super chocolate), zuppa inglese (sponge cake, custard, chocolate, and cream), and the popular stracciatella (vanilla with chocolate chips). Flavors named Snickers, Lion, and Bounty resemble their namesake candy bars.
Gelato variations or alternatives include sorbetto (sorbet—made with fruit, but no milk or eggs); granita or grattachecca (a cup of slushy ice with flavored syrup); and cremolata (a gelato-granita float).
Italian bars serve great drinks—hot, cold, sweet, caffeinated, or alcoholic. Chilled bottled water, still (naturale) or carbonated (frizzante), is sold cheap in stores. Coffee and wine—two Italian specialties—are covered in greater depth later.
Juice: Spremuta means freshly squeezed, as far as succo (fruit juice) is concerned (order una spremuta—don’t confuse it with spumante, sparkling wine). It’s usually orange juice (arancia), and from February through April it’s almost always made from blood oranges (arance rosse).
Beer: Beer on tap is alla spina. Get it piccola (33 cl, 11 oz), media (50 cl, about a pint), or grande (a liter). Italians drink mainly lager beers. You’ll find local brews (Peroni and Moretti) and imports such as Heineken as well. A lattina (lah-TEE-nah) is a can and a bottiglia (boh-TEEL-yah) is a bottle.
Cocktails and Spirits: Italians appreciate both aperitivi (palate-stimulating cocktails) and digestivi (after-dinner drinks designed to aid digestion). Popular aperitivo options include Campari (dark-colored bitters with herbs and orange peel), Americano (vermouth with bitters, brandy, and lemon peel), Cynar (bitters flavored with artichoke), and Punt e Mes (sweet red vermouth and red wine). Widely used vermouth brands include Cinzano and Martini. Digestivo choices are usually either a strong herbal bitters or something sweet. Many restaurants have their own secret recipe for a bittersweet herbal brew called amaro; popular commercial brands are Fernet Branca and Montenegro. If your tastes run sweeter, try amaretto (almond-flavored liqueur), Frangelico (hazelnut liqueur), limoncello (lemon liqueur), nocino (dark, sweet walnut liqueur), and sambuca (syrupy, anise-flavored liqueur; con moscha adds “flies”—three coffee beans). Grappa is a brandy distilled from grape skins and stems; stravecchio is an aged, mellower variation.
The espresso-based style of coffee so popular in the US was born in Italy. If you ask for “un caffè,” you’ll get a shot of espresso in a little cup—the closest thing to American-style drip coffee is a caffè Americano. Most Italian coffee drinks begin with espresso, to which is added varying amounts of hot water and/or steamed or foamed milk. Milky drinks, like cappuccino or caffè latte, are served to locals before noon and to tourists any time of day (to an Italian, cappuccino is a breakfast drink). If they add any milk after lunch, it’s just a splash, in a macchiato (mah-kee-AH-toh). Italians like their coffee only warm—to get it very hot, request “Molto caldo, per favore” (MOHL-toh KAHL-doh pehr fah-VOH-ray). Any coffee drink is available decaffeinated—ask for it decaffeinato: deh-kah-feh-ee-NAH-toh.
Experiment with a few of the options:
• Cappuccino: Espresso with foamed milk on top
• Caffè latte: Espresso mixed with hot milk, no foam, in a tall glass (ordering just a “latte” gets you only milk)
• Caffè macchiato: Espresso “marked” with just a splash of milk, in a small cup
• Latte macchiato: Layers of hot milk and foam, “marked” by an espresso shot, in a tall glass
• Caffè corto/lungo: Concentrated espresso diluted with a tiny bit of hot water, in a small cup
• Caffè americano: Espresso diluted with even more hot water, in a larger cup
• Caffè corretto: Espresso “corrected” with a shot of liqueur (normally grappa, amaro, or Sambuca)
• Marocchino: “Moroccan” coffee with espresso, foamed milk, and cocoa powder; the similar mocaccino has chocolate instead of cocoa
• Caffè freddo: Sweet and iced espresso
• Cappuccino freddo: Iced cappuccino
• Caffè hag: Instant decaf
Notice that there’s a big difference between caffè macchiato and latte macchiato. If you order simply a “macchiato,” you’ll probably get the coffee version...and have to get your milk fix elsewhere.
More Hot Drinks: Cioccolato is hot chocolate. Tè is hot tea. Tè freddo (iced tea) is usually from a can—sweetened and flavored with lemon or peach.
The ancient Greeks who colonized Italy more than 2,000 years ago called it Oenotria—land of the grape. Centuries later, Galileo wrote, “Wine is light held together by water.” Wine (vino) is certainly a part of the Italian culinary trinity—grape, olive, and wheat. (I’d add gelato.) Ideal conditions for grapes (warm climate, well-draining soil, and an abundance of hillsides) make the Italian peninsula a paradise for grape growers, winemakers, and wine drinkers. Italy makes and consumes more wine per capita than any other country. For regional wines produced in Tuscany, see “Top Local Wines,” later.
To order a glass (bicchiere; bee-kee-EH-ree) of red (rosso) or white (bianco) wine, say, “Un bicchiere di vino rosso/bianco.” Corposo means full-bodied. House wine (vino della casa) comes in a carafe; choose from a quarter-liter pitcher (8.5 oz, un quarto), half-liter pitcher (17 oz, un mezzo), or one-liter pitcher (34 oz, un litro).
Even if you’re clueless about wine, the information on an Italian wine label can help you choose something decent. Terms you may see on the bottle include classico (from a defined, select area), annata (year of harvest), vendemmia (harvest), and imbottigliato dal produttore all’origine (bottled by producers). To figure out what you like—and what suits your pocketbook—visit an enoteca (wine bar) and sample wines side-by-side.
In general, Italy designates its wines by one of four official categories:
Vino da Tavola (VDT) is table wine, the lowest grade, made from grapes grown anywhere in Italy. It’s inexpensive, but Italy’s wines are so good that, for many people, a basic vino da tavola is just fine with a meal. Many restaurants, even modest ones, take pride in their house wine (vino della casa), bottling their own or working with wineries.
Denominazione di Origine Controllata (DOC) meets national standards for high-quality wine. Made from grapes grown in a defined area, it’s usually quite affordable and can be surprisingly good. Hundreds of wines have earned the DOC designation. In Tuscany, for example, many such wines come from the Chianti region, located between Florence and Siena.
Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Guarantita (DOCG), the highest grade, meets national standards for the highest-quality wine (made with grapes from a defined area whose quality is “guaranteed”). These wines can be identified by the pink or green label on the neck...and the scary price tag on the shelf. Only a limited number of wines in Italy can be called DOCG. They’re generally a good bet if you want a quality wine, but you don’t know anything else about the winemaker. (Riserva indicates a DOC or DOCG wine matured for a longer, more specific time.)
Indicazione Geographica Tipica (IGT) is a broad group of wines that range from basic to some of Italy’s best. These wines don’t follow the strict “recipe” required for DOC or DOCG status, but give local vintners creative license. This category includes the Super Tuscans—wines made from a mix of international grapes (such as cabernet sauvignon) grown in Tuscany and aged in small oak barrels for only two years. The result is a lively full-bodied wine that dances all over your head...and is worth the steep price for aficionados.
While many restaurants in Florence and Tuscany serve your basic Italian fare—pasta and pizza, veal cutlets, and mixed salad—you can find a few specialties without looking too hard. In general, the cuisine of this region is hearty, simple farmers’ food: grilled meats, high-quality seasonal vegetables, fresh herbs, prized olive oil, and rustic bread. By the way, there’s nothing wrong with your pane alla toscana (Tuscan bread)—it’s supposed to taste like that. Tuscan bread is unsalted (from the days when salt was more valuable than gold) and nearly flavorless. Tuscans turn it into a basic appetizer by drenching it in olive oil and sprinkling it with salt.
Here are some typical foods you’ll encounter throughout Tuscany:
Bruschetta: Toasted bread brushed with olive oil and rubbed with garlic, topped with chopped tomato, mushrooms, or whatever else sounds good.
Crostini: Small toasted bread rounds topped with meat or vegetable pastes. Alla toscana generally means with chicken liver paste.
Panzanella: A simple summer salad, made of day-old bread with chopped tomatoes, onion, and basil, tossed in a light vinaigrette.
Pecorino cheese: Fresh (fresco) or aged (stagionato), from ewe’s milk.
Porcini mushrooms: Harvested in the fall and used in pasta and soups.
Salumi: Cold cuts, usually air- or salt-dried pork. Some popular kinds are prosciutto (air-cured ham hock), pancetta (cured pork belly), lardo (cured pork lard) and finocchiona (fennel salami). For a list of other salumi, see here.
Tagliere: A wooden platter with a sampling of cold cuts.
Pappardelle al sugo di lepre: This long, broad noodle is served with a rich sauce made from wild hare.
Pici al ragù: A fat, spaghetti-like hand-rolled pasta served with a meat-tomato sauce.
Ribollita: “Reboiled” soup, traditionally made with leftovers including white beans (fagioli), seasonal vegetables, and olive oil, with layers of day-old Tuscan bread slices.
Arrosto misto: An assortment of roasted meats, sometimes served on a skewer (spiedino).
Bistecca alla fiorentina: A thick T-bone steak, generally grilled very rare and lightly seasoned. (The best is from the white Chianina breed of cattle you’ll see grazing throughout Tuscany.) This dish is often sold by weight (per etto, or 100 grams).
Cinghiale: Wild boar, served grilled or in soups, stews, and pasta. It is also made into many varieties of sausage and salami.
Game birds: Squab (piccione), pheasant (fagiano), and guinea hen (faraona) are popular.
Trippa alla fiorentina: Tripe (intestines) and vegetables sautéed in a tomato sauce, sometimes baked with parmesan cheese.
...alla fiorentina or alla toscana: Anything cooked in the “Florentine” or “Tuscan” style. Usually these phrases describe a rustic preparation highlighting local products, but in practice they can mean almost anything.
Gelato: The Florentines claim they invented Italian-style ice cream. Many think they serve some of the world’s best. For more on gelato, see 36, and for tips on enjoying it here, see here.
Cantucci: Florentines love to end a meal by dipping this crunchy almond cookie in Vin Santo (literally “holy wine”), a sweet, golden dessert wine.
Panforte: Dense, dark, clove-and-cinnamon-spiced cake from Siena. Panforte makes a good, enduring gift.
The region of Tuscany produces some of the most famous and tastiest wines in Italy. The characteristics of the soil, temperature, and exposure make each wine unique to its area. Even if you don’t often drink wine, try some here.
Brunello di Montalcino: One of Italy’s top reds, this full-bodied wine comes from the slopes of Montalcino, south of Siena. Smooth and dry, it’s aged at least four years in wood and pairs well with hearty, meaty food.
Rosso di Montalcino: This cheaper, younger “baby Brunello,” also made in Montalcino, lacks Brunello’s depth of flavor and complexity—but it’s still a great wine at a bargain price.
Chianti: This hearty red from the Chianti region (20 miles south of Florence) is world famous. Varieties range from cheap, acidic basket-bottles of table wine (called fiaschi) to the hearty Chianti Classico.
Vino Nobile di Montepulciano: This high-quality, ruby red, dry wine pairs well with meat, especially chicken.
Super Tuscans: This newer breed of Italian wine blends traditional grapes with locally grown non-Italian grapes (such as cabernet or merlot).
Vernaccia di San Gimignano: This medium-dry white is a decent choice and goes well with pasta and salad. Trebbiano and vermentino are two other local white grapes.
Vin Santo: Sweet and syrupy, this “holy” dessert wine is often served with a cookie for dipping.
We travel all the way to Italy to enjoy differences—to become temporary locals. You’ll experience frustrations. Certain truths that we find “God-given” or “self-evident,” such as cold beer, ice in drinks, bottomless cups of coffee, and bigger being better, are suddenly not so true. One of the benefits of travel is the eye-opening realization that there are logical, civil, and even better alternatives. A willingness to go local ensures that you’ll enjoy a full dose of Italian hospitality.
Europeans generally like Americans. But if there is a negative aspect to Italians’ image of Americans, it’s that we are loud, wasteful, ethnocentric, too informal (which can seem disrespectful), and a bit naive. Think about the rationale behind “crazy” Italian decisions. For instance, many hoteliers turn off the heat in spring and can’t turn on air-conditioning until summer. The point is to conserve energy, and it’s mandated by the Italian government. You could complain about being cold or hot...or bring a sweater in winter, and in summer, be prepared to sweat a little like everyone else.
While Italians, flabbergasted by our Yankee excesses, say in disbelief, “Mi sono cadute le braccia!” (“I throw my arms down!”), they nearly always afford us individual travelers all the warmth we deserve. Judging from all the happy feedback I receive from travelers who have used this book, it’s safe to assume you’ll enjoy a great, affordable vacation—with the finesse of an independent, experienced traveler.
Thanks, and buon viaggio!
From Rick Steves’ Europe Through the Back Door
Travel is intensified living—maximum thrills per minute and one of the last great sources of legal adventure. Travel is freedom. It’s recess, and we need it.
Experiencing the real Europe requires catching it by surprise, going casual...“Through the Back Door.”
Affording travel is a matter of priorities. (Make do with the old car.) You can eat and sleep—simply, safely, and enjoyably—anywhere in Europe for $120 a day plus transportation costs. In many ways, spending more money only builds a thicker wall between you and what you traveled so far to see. Europe is a cultural carnival, and time after time, you’ll find that its best acts are free and the best seats are the cheap ones.
A tight budget forces you to travel close to the ground, meeting and communicating with the people. Never sacrifice sleep, nutrition, safety, or cleanliness to save money. Simply enjoy the local-style alternatives to expensive hotels and restaurants.
Connecting with people carbonates your experience. Extroverts have more fun. If your trip is low on magic moments, kick yourself and make things happen. If you don’t enjoy a place, maybe you don’t know enough about it. Seek the truth. Recognize tourist traps. Give a culture the benefit of your open mind. See things as different, but not better or worse. Any culture has plenty to share.
Of course, travel, like the world, is a series of hills and valleys. Be fanatically positive and militantly optimistic. If something’s not to your liking, change your liking.
Travel can make you a happier American, as well as a citizen of the world. Our Earth is home to seven billion equally precious people. It’s humbling to travel and find that other people don’t have the “American Dream”—they have their own dreams. Europeans like us, but with all due respect, they wouldn’t trade passports.
Thoughtful travel engages us with the world. In tough economic times, it reminds us what is truly important. By broadening perspectives, travel teaches new ways to measure quality of life.
Globetrotting destroys ethnocentricity, helping us understand and appreciate other cultures. Rather than fear the diversity on this planet, celebrate it. Among your most prized souvenirs will be the strands of different cultures you choose to knit into your own character. The world is a cultural yarn shop, and Back Door travelers are weaving the ultimate tapestry. Join in!