Near the Church of Santa Maria Novella
Between Palazzo Vecchio and Santa Croce Church
South of the River, in the Oltrarno
Dining with a Ponte Vecchio View
Eating Cheaply in the Oltrarno
Florence is a Tuscan tour for your taste buds, but be warned: My readers fill many of the mom-and-pop eateries listed here. Still, even when packed with travelers, these personality-driven places are a fine value and offer high quality. If you want to steer away from my readers, grab another spot. If it’s in the center, it’ll probably have less value and just as many tourists. To really escape from the crowds, you need to get away from the town center...though I’d rather stick around. The Oltrarno, just across the river, is a good compromise: far enough away to not feel completely overrun by tourists, but close enough for an easy commute by foot.
You may have the best luck finding local ambience at lunch, since that’s when many restaurants in the center cater to office workers. For dinner, those same places fill with tourists early; then, after about 21:00, the tourists are replaced by locals dining later. If you’re on a budget and are planning to visit any small Tuscan towns, your splurge dollars will go much farther there than in expensive Florence...and you’ll get generally better food, to boot.
For an overview of restaurants, other types of eateries, and Florentine cuisine, along with tips on tipping, see the Eating section of the Introduction. Remember, restaurants like to serve what’s fresh. If you’re into flavor, go for the seasonal best bets—featured in the piatti del giorno (“specials of the day”) section on menus. For dessert, it’s gelato (see sidebar later in this chapter).
To save money and time for sights, keep lunches fast and simple, eating in one of the countless pizzerias and self-service cafeterias. Picnicking is easy—there’s no shortage of corner supermercatos, or you can picnic your way through the Mercato Centrale.
Foodies or those with more time (and a smartphone), consider downloading Elizabeth Minchilli’s excellent app, Eat Florence, which has thorough descriptions of all things food-related in the city (www.elizabethminchilliinrome.com).
(See “Florence Restaurants” map, here.)
Trattoria Marione serves sincerely home cooked-style meals to a mixed group of tourists and Florentines beneath hanging ham hocks. The ambience is happy, crowded, food-loving, and a bit frantic (€8-11 pastas, €10-12 secondi, daily 12:00-17:00 & 19:00-23:00, Via della Spada 27 red, tel. 055-214-756, Fabio).
Trattoria al Trebbio serves traditional food, especially rabbit and steak, in a throwback Florentine setting. Inside, enjoy the old movie posters and garlands of garlic, or grab one of the few tables outside in season (€7-10 pastas, €10-16 secondi, daily 12:00-15:00 & 19:15-23:00, half a block off of Piazza Santa Maria Novella at Via delle Belle Donne 47, tel. 055-287-089, Antonio).
Trattoria “da Giorgio” is a family-style diner on a sketchy street serving up piping-hot, simple home cooking to happy locals and tourists alike. Their three-course, fixed-price meal, including water and a drink, is a great value (€12 at lunch, €13 at dinner). Choose from among the daily specials or the regular menu (Mon-Sat 12:00-14:30 & 18:30-22:00, closed Sun, Via Palazzuolo 100 red, tel. 055-284-302, Silvano).
Trattoria Sostanza-Troia, characteristic and well established, is famous for its beef. Hearty steaks and pastas are splittable. Whirling ceiling fans and walls strewn with old photos evoke earlier times, while the artichoke pies remind locals of Grandma’s cooking. Crowded, shared tables with paper tablecloths give this place a bistro feel. Reservations are always a good idea but essential for dinner, during which they offer two seatings, at 19:30 and 21:00 (dinners for about €30 plus wine, cash only, lunch Mon-Sat 12:30-14:00, closed Sun, closed Sat off-season, Via del Porcellana 25 red, tel. 055-212-691).
Trattoria 13 Gobbi (“13 Hunchbacks”) is a trendy and slightly self-important eatery, atmospherically cluttered and glowing with candles around a tiny garden. Romantic in front and more kid-friendly in back, it serves beautifully presented Tuscan food (they’re enthusiastic about their steak) on big, fancy plates to a mostly tourist crowd (€10-12 pastas, €14-19 secondi, daily 12:30-15:00 & 19:30-23:00, Via del Porcellana 9 red, tel. 055-284-015, Enrico).
(See “Florence Restaurants” map, here.)
The following market-neighborhood eateries all have a distinct vibe. They’re within a few blocks of each other: Scout around and choose your favorite.
Trattoria Zà-Zà is a fun, high-energy place facing the Mercato Centrale. It offers a family-friendly festival of standard Tuscan dishes such as ribollita and bistecca alla fiorentina, plus a variety of big, splittable €8 salads. Though it’s more touristy than ever, the food is still good, and everyone’s happy. Arrive early or make a reservation. Choose between the colorful interior or the outdoor piazza. Understand your itemized bill, and don’t mistake their outside seating with the neighboring restaurant’s (€8-10 pastas, €10-16 secondi, daily 11:00-23:00, Piazza del Mercato Centrale 26 red, tel. 055-215-411). Their bar/osteria, nearby, has a similar menu (with a few differences, including more of an emphasis on seafood and taglieri—cheese-and-meat plates), a trendier-feeling interior, and a smaller, more open outdoor-dining zone.
Trattoria la Burrasca is Flintstone-chic. Friendly Elio and his staff offer a limited menu with good-value seasonal specials of Tuscan home cooking. It’s small—14 tables—and often filled with my readers. If Archie Bunker were Italian, he’d eat at this trattoria for special nights out (€6 pastas, €7-15 secondi, no cover or service charge, Tue-Sun 12:00-15:00 & 19:00-22:30, closed Mon, Via Panicale 6, north corner of Mercato Centrale, tel. 055-215-827).
Trattoria Lo Stracotto is a truffle-colored eatery with sophisticated ambience just steps away from the Medici Chapels. It’s run by cousins Francesco and Tommaso, who serve up tasty, traditional dishes such as bistecca alla fiorentina and ribollita (based on grandfather’s recipe), and good chocolate soufflé. Enjoy the candlelit ambience and soft music as you sit either in the dining room or out on the terrace (€7-10 pastas, €10-17 secondi, daily 12:00-15:00 & 18:00-22:30, Piazza Madonna degli Aldobrandi 16/17, tel. 055-230-2062).
Osteria Vineria i’Brincello is a bright, happy, no-frills diner with tasty food, lots of spirit, friendly service, and no hint of snobbishness. It features a list of Tuscan daily specials hanging from the ceiling and great prices on good bottled wine (€7-8 pastas, €8-15 secondi, €5 takeout homemade pasta, daily 12:00-15:00 & 19:00-23:00, near corner of Via Nazionale and Via Chiara at Via Nazionale 110 red, tel. 055-282-645, Fredi cooks while Claudia serves). Their hole-in-the-wall across the street, i’Brincellino, serves several inexpensive hot dishes (from the same kitchen) and tasty sandwiches. You can eat in or get it to go (daily 11:00-23:00).
Trattoria Nerone Pizzeria, serving up cheap, hearty Tuscan dishes and decent pizzas, is a tourist-friendly, practical standby in the hotel district. The lively, flamboyantly outfitted space (once the garden courtyard of a convent—they still have a small, leafy seasonal terrace) feels like a good but kitschy Italian-American chain restaurant (€5-8 pizzas, €6-8 pastas, €8-12 secondi, daily 12:00-23:00, just north of Via Nazionale at Via Faenza 95-97 red, tel. 055-291-217, Tulio).
(See “Florence Restaurants” map, here.)
Note that none of these eateries is open for dinner.
Mercato Centrale (Central Market) is great for an ad-lib lunch. It offers colorful piles of picnic produce, people-watching, and rustic sandwiches (Mon-Sat 7:00-14:00, Sat in winter until 17:00, closed Sun, a block north of San Lorenzo street market). The thriving eateries within the market (such as Nerbone, described next) serve some of the cheapest hot meals in town. The fancy deli, Perini, is famous for its quality (pricey) products and enticing display. Buy a picnic of fresh mozzarella cheese, olives, fruit, and crunchy bread to munch on the steps of the nearby Church of San Lorenzo, overlooking the bustling street market.
Nerbone in the Market is a venerable café and the best place for a sit-down meal within the Mercato Centrale. Join the shoppers and workers who crowd up to the bar to grab their €4-7 plates, and then find a stool at the cramped shared tables nearby. Of the several cheap market diners, this feels the most authentic. As intestines are close to Florentines’ hearts, it’s a good place to try tripe. For the less adventurous, porchetta (roast pork with herbs) and bollito (stewed beef with broth) are tasty alternatives (lunch menu served Mon-Sat 12:00-14:00, sandwiches available from 8:00 until the bread runs out, closed Sun, cash only, inside Mercato Centrale on the side closest to the Church of San Lorenzo, mobile 339-648-0251).
Trattoria Mario’s, around the corner from Trattoria Zà-Zà (listed earlier), has been serving hearty lunches to market-goers since 1953 (Fabio and Romeo are the latest generation). Their simple formula: no-frills, bustling service, old-fashioned good value, and shared tables. It’s cucina casalinga—home cooking con brio. This place is high-energy and jam-packed. Their best dishes often sell out first, so go early. If there’s a line, put your name on the list (€5-6 pastas, €8 secondi, cash only, Mon-Sat 12:00-15:30, closed Sun and Aug, no reservations, Via Rosina 2, tel. 055-218-550).
Casa del Vino, Florence’s oldest operating wine shop, offers glasses of wine from among 25 open bottles (see the list tacked to the bar). Owner Gianni, whose family has owned the Casa for more than 70 years, is a class act. Gianni’s carta dei panini lists delightful €3.50 sandwiches and €1 crostini; the I Nostri Panini (classic sandwiches) richly reward adventurous eaters. During busy times, it’s a mob scene. You’ll eat standing outside alongside workers on a quick lunch break (Mon-Fri 9:30-20:00 year-round, Sat 9:30-17:00 Sept-June only, closed Sun year-round and Sat in summer, hidden behind stalls of San Lorenzo Market at Via dell’Ariento 16 red, tel. 055-215-609).
(See “Florence Restaurants” map, here.)
For pizza by the slice, try Pugi, at Piazza San Marco 9B.
Pasticceria Robiglio, a smart little café, opens up its stately dining area and sets out a few tables on the sidewalk for lunch. They have a small menu of daily pasta and secondi specials, and seem determined to do things like they did in the elegant, pre-tourism days (generous €9-10 plates, a great €8 niçoise-like “fantasy salad,” pretty pastries, smiling service, daily 12:00-15:00, longer hours as a café, a block toward the Duomo off Piazza S.S. Annunziata at Via dei Servi 112 red, tel. 055-212-784). Before you leave, be tempted by their pastries—famous among Florentines.
La Mescita Fiaschetteria is a characteristic hole-in-the-wall just around the corner from David—but a world away from all the tourism. It’s where locals and students enjoy daily pasta specials and hearty sandwiches with good €1.50 house wine. You can trust Mirco and Alessio (as far as you can throw them—check your bill)—just point to what looks good (such as their €5-6 pasta plate or €6-8 secondi), and you’ll soon be eating well and inexpensively. The place can either be mobbed by students or in a peaceful time warp, depending on when you stop by (Mon-Sat 10:45-16:00, closed Sun, Via degli Alfani 70 red, mobile 347-795-1604 or 338-992-2640).
Picnic on the Ultimate Renaissance Square: Il Centro Supermercati, a handy supermarket a half-block north of the Accademia, has a curbside sandwich bar (Panineria) with an easy English menu that includes salads to go (Mon-Sat 9:00-19:30, Sun 10:00-19:00, Sat-Mon closed 15:00-16:30, sandwich bar may close earlier, Via Ricasoli 109). With your picnic in hand, hike around the block and join the bums on Piazza S.S. Annunziata, the first Renaissance square in Florence (don’t confuse this with the less-interesting Piazza San Marco, closer to the supermarket). There’s a fountain for washing fruit on the square. Grab a stony seat anywhere you like, and savor one of my favorite cheap Florence eating experiences. Or, drop by any of the places listed earlier for an easy lunch (pizza, kebab, or sandwich plus juice) to go.
Antica Trattoria da Tito, a 10-minute hike from the Accademia along Via San Gallo, can be fun if you want a long, drawn-out event of a meal with a local crowd and smart-aleck service. The boss, Bobo, serves quality traditional food and lots of wine. While the food is good, there’s no pretense—it’s just a playground of Tuscan cuisine with “no romance allowed.” The music is vintage 1980s and can be loud. To gorge on a feast of antipasti (cold cuts, cheeses, a few veggies, and bruschetta), consider ordering fermami (literally “stop me”)—for €14, Bobo brings you food until you say, “Fermami!” A couple can get fermami, desserts, and a nice bottle of wine for around €60 total (€10 pastas, €12 secondi, €14 gran tagliere—big plate of cheese and meat, travelers with this book get a free after-dinner drink, Mon-Sat 12:30-15:00 & 19:00-23:00, closed Sun, reservations generally necessary, Via San Gallo 112 red, tel. 055-472-475, www.trattoriadatito.it).
(See “Florence Restaurants” map, here.)
Self-Service Ristorante Leonardo is an inexpensive, air-conditioned, quick, and handy cafeteria. Eating here, you’ll get the sense that they’re passionate about the quality of their food. Stefano and Luciano (like Pavarotti) run the place with enthusiasm and put out free pitchers of tap water. It’s just a block from the Duomo, southwest of the Baptistery (€5 primi, €6 main courses, lots of veggies, Sun-Fri 11:45-14:45 & 18:45-21:45, closed Sat, upstairs at Via Pecori 11, tel. 055-284-446).
Paszkowski, a grand café on Piazza della Repubblica, serves up inexpensive, quick lunches. At the display case, order a salad or €7 plate of pasta or cooked veggies (or half and half), pay the cashier, and find a seat upstairs. Better yet, eat at one of the tables on the square. Note that table service prices are much more expensive (daily 7:00-24:00, lunch served 12:00-15:00, closed Mon off-season, Piazza della Repubblica 35 red—northwest corner, tel. 055-210-236).
Döner Kebab: A good place to try this cheap Middle Eastern specialty is Turkuaz, a couple of blocks northeast of the Duomo (Via dei Servi 65; see sidebar on here).
(See “Florence Restaurants” map, here.)
Piazza della Signoria, the scenic square facing Palazzo Vecchio, is ringed by beautifully situated yet touristy eateries serving overpriced, bad-value, and probably microwaved food. If you’re determined to eat on the square, have pizza at Ristorante il Cavallino or bar food from the Irish pub next door. Piazza della Signoria’s saving grace is Rivoire café, famous for its fancy desserts and thick hot chocolate. While obscenely expensive, it has the best view tables on the square. Stand at the bar with the locals and pay way less (Tue-Sun 7:30-24:00, closed Mon, tel. 055-214-412).
(See “Florence Restaurants” map, here.)
Frescobaldi Ristorante and Wine Bar, the showcase of Italy’s aristocratic wine family, is a good choice for a formal dinner in Florence. Candlelight reflects off glasses of wine, and high-vaulted ceilings complement the sophisticated dishes. They offer the same seasonal menu in three different dining areas: cozy interior, woody wine bar, and breezy terrace. If coming for dinner, make a reservation, dress up, and hit an ATM (€11-14 appetizers and pastas, €18-25 secondi, lighter wine-bar menu at lunch, daily 12:00-14:30 & 19:00-22:30, closed the middle of Aug, air-con, half a block north of Palazzo Vecchio at Via dei Magazzini 2-4 red, tel. 055-284-724, www.deifrescobaldi.it, Duccio).
Ristorante Paoli dishes up traditional cuisine to loads of cheerful eaters being served by jolly little old men under a richly frescoed Gothic vault. It feels old-school and Old World...it’s all about the setting. Because of its fame and central location, it’s filled mostly with tourists, but for a traditional Tuscan splurge meal, this is a fine choice. The walls are sweaty with memories that go back to 1824, and the service is flamboyant and fun-loving (but don’t get taken—confirm prices). Woodrow Wilson slurped spaghetti here—his bust looks down on you as you eat (€10-15 pastas, €12-20 secondi, daily 12:00-15:00 & 19:00-23:00, reserve for dinner, between Piazza della Signoria and the Duomo at Via dei Tavolini 12 red, tel. 055-216-215, Antonio).
(See “Florence Restaurants” map, here.)
Cantinetta dei Verrazzano, a long-established bakery/café/wine bar, serves delightful sandwich plates in an old-time setting. Their selezione Verrazzano is a fine plate of four little crostini (like mini-bruschetta) proudly featuring different breads, cheeses, and meats from the Chianti region (€7.50). The tagliere di focacce, a sampler plate of mini-focaccia sandwiches, is also fun (€16 for big plate for two). Add a €5 glass of Chianti to either of these dishes to make a fine, light meal. Office workers pop in for a quick lunch, and it’s traditional to share tables. Be warned: Prices can add up here in a hurry (Mon-Sat 8:00-21:00, Sun 10:00-16:30, no reservations taken, just off Via de’ Calzaiuoli, across from Orsanmichele Church at Via dei Tavolini 18, tel. 055-268-590). They also have benches and tiny tables for eating at take-out prices. Simply step to the back and point to a hot focacce sandwich (€3), order a drink at the bar, and take away your food or sit with Florentines and watch the action while you munch.
Osteria Vini e Vecchi Sapori, half a block north of the Palazzo Vecchio, is a colorful eatery serving Tuscan food with a fun, accessible menu of delicious €8-10 pastas and €9-15 secondi (Mon-Sat 12:00-14:30 & 19:00-22:30, closed Sun, reserve for dinner; facing the bronze equestrian statue in Piazza della Signoria, go behind its tail into the corner and to your left; Via dei Magazzini 3 red, tel. 055-293-045, run by Mario while wife Rosanna cooks and son Thomas serves).
I Fratellini is a hole-in-the-wall where the “little brothers” have served peasants 29 different kinds of sandwiches and cheap glasses of Chianti wine (see list on wall) since 1875. Join the local crowd to order, then sit on a nearby curb to eat, placing your glass on the wall rack before you leave (€2.50-3 sandwiches, daily 9:00-19:30 or until the bread runs out, closed Sun in winter, 20 yards in front of Orsanmichele Church on Via dei Cimatori, tel. 055-239-6096). Be adventurous with the menu (easy-order by number). Consider finocchiona e caprino (#15, a Tuscan salami and soft goat cheese), lardo di Colonnata (#22, cured lard aged in Carrara marble), and cinghiale (#19, spicy wild boar salami) sandwiches. Order the most expensive wine they’re selling by the glass (Brunello for €5; bottles are labeled).
Cheap Takeout on Via Dante Alighieri: Three handy places line up on this street, just a couple of blocks from the Duomo. L’Antico Trippaio, a tripe stand, is a fixture in the town center. Cheap and authentic as can be, this is where locals come daily for €4-7 sandwiches (panini), featuring specialties like trippa alla fiorentina (tripe), lampredotto (cow’s stomach), and a list of more appetizing options. Lisa and Maurizio offer a free plastic glass of rotgut Chianti with each sandwich for travelers with this book (daily 9:00-21:00, on Via Dante Alighieri, mobile 339-742-5692). If tripe isn’t your cup of offal, Pizzeria Totò, just next to the tripe stand, has good €2.50-3 slices (daily 10:30-23:00, Via Dante Alighieri 28 red, tel. 055-290-406). And a few steps in the opposite direction is a Metà supermarket, with cheap drinks and snacks and a fine antipasti case inside (daily 8:30-21:30, Sun from 9:00, Via Dante Alighieri 20-24). If you pick up lunch at any of these, the best people-watching place to enjoy your sandwich is three blocks away, on Piazza della Signoria.
(See “Florence Restaurants” map, here.)
’Ino is a mod little shop filled with gifty edibles. Alessandro and his staff serve sandwiches and wine—you’ll get your €5-8 sandwich on a napkin with an included glass of their wine of the day as you perch on a tiny stool. They can also make a fine €12 piatto misto of cheeses and meats with bread (daily 11:30-16:30, immediately behind Uffizi Gallery on Ponte Vecchio side, between the olive tree and the river, Via dei Georgofili 7 red, tel. 055-219-208).
(See “Florence Restaurants” map, here.)
Ristorante del Fagioli is an enthusiastically run eatery where you feel the heritage. The dad, Gigi, commands the kitchen while family members Antonio, Maurizio, and Simone keep the throngs of loyal customers returning. The cuisine: home-style bread-soups, hearty steaks, and other Florentine classics. Don’t worry—while fagioli means “beans,” that’s the family name, not the extent of the menu (€9 primi, €9-10 secondi, cash only, Mon-Fri 12:30-14:30 & 19:30-22:30, closed Sat-Sun, reserve for dinner, a block north of the Alle Grazie bridge at Corso dei Tintori 47, tel. 055-244-285).
Boccadama Enoteca Ristorante is a stylish, shabby-chic wine bistro serving an easy-to-navigate menu of capably executed traditional Tuscan fare based on seasonal produce. Eat in the intimate dining room with candles reflecting off bottle-lined walls or at one of the few tables on the dramatic Piazza Santa Croce. As this place is popular with groups, reservations are smart, especially for outside (€8-9 primi, €12-16 secondi, daily 11:00-23:00, on south side of Piazza Santa Croce at 25-26 red, tel. 055-243-640, Marco, www.boccadama.com).
Trattoria Anita, midway between the Uffizi and Santa Croce, feels old-school, with wood paneling and rows of wine bottles. Brothers Nicola, Gianni, and Maurizio offer a good-value lunch special: three hearty Tuscan courses for €10 on weekdays (€7-8 pastas, €7-13 secondi, Mon-Sat 12:00-14:30 & 19:00-22:15, closed Sun, on the corner of Via Vinegia and Via del Parlagio at #2 red, tel. 055-218-698).
Trattoria I’cche C’è C’è (EE-kay chay chay; dialect for “whatever there is, there is”) is a small, family-style restaurant where fun-loving Gino and his wife Mara serve functional local food, including a €13 three-course, fixed-price meal. While filled with tourists, the place has a charming mom-and-pop warmth (€7-12 pastas, €12-18 secondi, Tue-Sun 12:30-14:30 & 19:30-22:30, closed Mon and two weeks in Aug, midway between Bargello and river at Via Magalotti 11 red, tel. 055-216-589).
Club del Gusto, a block behind the Palazzo Vecchio, is a low-key place with a friendly owner/chef. Grab a salad or sandwich to carry away, or enjoy a made-to-order pasta plate at a table in back (Via dei Neri 50 red, tel. 348-090-3142).
All’Antico Vinaio, a photogenic Florentine favorite, has two options: You can either stand in the street, grabbing a €5 sandwich and pouring your own wine (€2/glass), or head across the street to their osteria to sit down and order from a more extensive menu (Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00, Sun 12:00-16:00, Via dei Neri 65 red, tel. 055-238-2723).
In general, dining in the Oltrarno offers a more authentic experience; although it’s quite close to the old center, tourists imagine that it’s another world and tend to stay away. At many of these places, Florentines may even outnumber my readers. For locations, see the map on here.
(See “Oltrarno Hotels & Restaurants” map, here.)
Golden View Open Bar is a lively, trendy bistro, good for a romantic meal or just a salad, pizza, or pasta with fine wine and a fine view of Ponte Vecchio and the Arno River. Its white, minimalist interior is a stark contrast to atmospheric old Florence. Reservations for window tables are essential unless you drop in early for dinner (€10 pizzas, €11-15 pastas, big €11-14 salads, €20-30 secondi, daily 11:30-24:00, impressive wine bar, 50 yards east of Ponte Vecchio at Via dei Bardi 58, tel. 055-214-502, www.goldenviewopenbar.com, run by Antonio, Marco, and Tommaso). They have four seating areas (with the same menu and prices) for whatever mood you’re in: a riverside pizza place, a classier restaurant, a jazzy lounge, and a wine bar (they also serve a buffet of appetizers free with your €10-12 drink from 19:00 to 21:00). Mixing their fine wine, river views, and live jazz makes for a wonderful evening (jazz Mon, Wed, Fri, and Sat nights at 21:00).
(See “Florence Restaurants” map, here.)
Italy’s best ice cream is in Florence. But beware of scams at touristy joints on busy streets that turn a simple request for a cone into a €10 “tourist special” rip-off. To avoid this, survey the size options and specify what you want—for example, un cono da tre euro (a €3 cone). For more gelato tips, see here.
All of these places, which are a cut above, are open daily for long hours.
Near the Accademia: A Sicilian choice on a tourist thoroughfare, Gelateria Carabè is particularly famous for its luscious granite—Italian ices made with fresh fruit. A cremolata is a granita with a dollop of gelato—a delicious combination (from the Accademia, it’s a block toward the Duomo at Via Ricasoli 60 red).
Near the Mercato Centrale: Il Triangolo della Bermuda is a hit both for its fresh ingredients and for the big-hearted energy of its owner, Vetulio (Via Nazionale 61 red, where it crosses Via Faenza, tel. 055-287-490).
Near the Duomo: Grom uses organic ingredients and seasonal fresh fruit, along with biodegradable spoons and tubs. This clever Italy-wide chain markets its traditional approach, although purists grumble that a chain gelateria can’t possibly compare with a local one-off. Still, it’s good and has maintained a high quality—likely because the menu follows what’s in season, changing every month (Via delle Oche 24 red).
Near Orsanmichele Church: Perchè No! is located just off the busy main pedestrian drag, Via de’ Calzaiuoli, and serves a wide array of flavors (Via dei Tavolini 19).
Near Ponte Vecchio: Gelateria Carrozze is a longtime favorite (on riverfront 30 yards from Ponte Vecchio toward the Uffizi at Piazza del Pesce 3).
Near the Church of Santa Croce: The venerable favorite, Vivoli’s still has great gelato—but it’s more expensive, and stingy in its servings. Before ordering, try a free sample of their rice flavor—riso (closed Mon, Aug, and Jan; opposite the Church of Santa Croce, go down Via Torta a block and turn right on Via Stinche). Florentines flock to Gelateria de’ Neri (Via dei Neri 22 red; if not there, it might have moved slightly east—ask a local).
Across the River: If you want an excuse to check out the little village-like neighborhood across the river from Santa Croce (or are walking to Piazzale Michelangelo), enjoy a gelato at the tiny Il Gelato di Filo (named for Filippo and Lorenzo) at Via San Miniato 5 red, a few steps toward the river from Porta San Miniato (see map on here). Gelato chef Edmir is proud of his fruity sorbet as well.
(See “Oltrarno Hotels & Restaurants” map, here.)
Of the many good and colorful restaurants in the Oltrarno, these are my favorites. You can survey most of them while following the route in the Oltrarno Walk chapter before making a choice. Reservations are a good idea in the evening.
Il Santo Bevitore Ristorante, lit like a Rembrandt painting and filled with dressy tables, serves creative Tuscan cuisine. They’re enthusiastic about matching quality produce from the area with the right wine. This is a good break from the big, sloppy plates of pasta you’ll get at many Florence eateries (€9-12 pastas, €8-12 meat-and-cheese taglieri, €10-18 secondi, good wine list by the glass or bottle, daily 12:30-14:30 & 19:30-22:30, closed Sun for lunch, come early or make reservations, no outside seating, Via di Santo Spirito 64, tel. 055-211-264). Their smaller wine bar next door, Enoteca Il Santino Gastronomia, feels like the perfect after-work hangout for foodies who’d like a glass of wine and some light food. Tight, cozy, and atmospheric, one wall is occupied by the bar, where you can assemble an €8-12 tagliere of local cheeses and salumi (also available to take away). They also have a few €6-8 hot dishes. Both the food and the wine are locally sourced from small producers (daily 12:30-23:00, Via di Santo Spirito 60 red, tel. 055-230-2820).
Trattoria 4 Leoni creates the quintessential Oltrarno dinner scene, and it’s understandably popular with tourists. The Tuscan-style food is made with an innovative twist and an appreciation for vegetables. You’ll enjoy the fun energy and characteristic seating, both outside on the colorful square, Canto ai Quattro Pagoni, and inside, where you’ll dine in exposed-stone sophistication. While the wines by the glass are pricey, the house wine is good (€8-10 primi, €10-15 secondi, daily 12:00-24:00, dinner reservations smart; from Ponte Vecchio walk four blocks up Via de’ Guicciardini, turn right on Via dello Sprone, then slightly left to Via de’ Vellutini 1; tel. 055-218-562, www.4leoni.com).
Antico Ristoro Di’ Cambi is a meat lover’s dream—thick with Tuscan traditions, rustic touches, and T-bone steaks. The bustling scene has a memorable, beer-hall energy. As you walk in, you’ll pass a glass case filled with red chunks of Chianina beef that’s priced by weight (for the famous bistecca alla fiorentina, €40/kilo, standard serving is half a kilo per person). Before you OK your investment, they’ll show you the cut and tell you the weight. While the steak comes nearly uncooked, it’s air-dried for 21 days so it’s not really raw, just very tasty and tender—it’ll make you happy you’re at the top of the food chain. Sit inside the convivial woody interior or outside on a square (€8-10 pastas, €10-18 secondi, Mon-Sat 12:00-14:30 & 18:30-22:30, closed Sun, reserve on weekends and to sit outside, Via Sant’Onofrio 1 red, one block south of Ponte Amerigo Vespucci, see map on here, tel. 055-217-134, run by Stefano and Fabio, the Cambi cousins).
Olio & Convivium Gastronomia is primarily a catering company for top-end events, and this is where they showcase their cooking. It started as an elegant deli whose refined olive-oil-tasting room morphed into a romantic, aristocratic restaurant. Their three intimate rooms are surrounded by fine prosciutti, cheeses, and wine shelves. It can seem intimidating and a little pretentious, but well-dressed foodies will appreciate this place for its quiet atmosphere. Their list of €14-25 gastronomia plates offers an array of taste treats and fine wines by the glass (€14-16 pastas, €20-22 secondi, stylish €18 lunches with wine, Tue-Sat 12:00-14:30 & 19:00-22:30, Mon 12:00-14:30 only, closed Sun, strong air-con, Via di Santo Spirito 4, tel. 055-265-8198, Monica).
Trattoria da Sergio is a tiny eatery about a block before Porta San Frediano, one of Florence’s medieval gates. It has charm and a strong following, so reservations are a must. The food is on the gourmet side of home-cooking—mama’s favorites with a modern twist—and therefore a bit more expensive (€9-10 primi, €12-18 secondi, Mon-Sat 12:00-14:00 & 19:30-22:45, Sun 12:00-14:00 only, Borgo San Frediano 145 red, see map on here, tel. 055-223-449, Sergio and Marco, www.trattoriadasergio.it).
Trattoria Al Tranvai, with tight seating and small dark-wood tables, looks like an old-time tram filled with the neighborhood gang. A 10-minute walk from the river at the edge of the Oltrarno, it feels like a small town’s favorite eatery (€8-10 pastas, €10-13 secondi, Mon 19:00-24:00, Tue-Sat 12:30-14:30 & 19:30-22:30, closed Sun; from the Brancacci Chapel, go south on Via del Leone 5 minutes to Piazza T. Tasso 14 red—see map on here; tel. 055-225-197, www.altranvai.it).
(See “Oltrarno Hotels & Restaurants” map, here.)
Trattoria Sabatino, farthest away and least touristy of my Oltrarno listings, is a spacious, brightly lit mess hall. You get the feeling it hasn’t changed much since it opened—in 1956. It’s disturbingly cheap, with family character and a simple menu—a super place to watch locals munch, especially since you’ll likely be sharing a table. You’ll find it just outside Porta San Frediano, a 15-minute walk from Ponte Vecchio (€4 pastas, €6 secondi, Mon-Fri 12:00-14:30 & 19:15-22:00, closed Sat-Sun, Via Pisana 2 red, see map on here, tel. 055-225-955, little English spoken). Let eating here be your reward after following the stroll in my 
Oltrarno Walk chapter.
Trattoria Casalinga, an inexpensive standby, comes with aproned women bustling around the kitchen. Florentines and tourists alike pack the place and leave full and happy, with euros to spare for gelato (€7 pastas, €8-10 secondi, Mon-Sat 12:00-14:30 & 19:00-21:45, after 20:00 reserve or wait, closed Sun and Aug, just off Piazza di Santo Spirito, near the church at Via de’ Michelozzi 9 red, tel. 055-218-624, Andrea and Paolo).
Borgo Antico is the hit of Piazza di Santo Spirito, with enticing pizzas, big deluxe plates of pasta, a delightful setting, and a trendy and boisterous young crowd (€8-10 pizza, pasta, and salads, €14-18 secondi, daily 12:00-23:00, best to reserve for a seat on the square, Piazza di Santo Spirito 6 red, tel. 055-210-437, Andrea and Michele—feel his forearm). Volume, the bar next door, is run by the same gang (see here in the Nightlife in Florence chapter).
Caffè Ricchi, next to Borgo Antico, has fine gelato, homemade desserts, shaded outdoor tables, and €4 pasta dishes at lunch. After noting the plain facade of the Brunelleschi church facing the square, step inside the café and pick your favorite picture of the many ways the church might be finished (daily 7:00-24:00, tel. 055-280-830). Ristorante Ricchi, its sister restaurant next door, is more formal, has a larger menu, and also has tables on the square.
Le Volpi e l’Uva, a wine bar just steps from Ponte Vecchio, has a limited menu of affettati (cold cuts), cheese, and crostone (hearty bruschetta)—a nice spot for a light lunch (for details, see the listing on here).
Supermarket: Sapori & Dintorni Conad, just over Ponte Vecchio and to the left, has all you need for a picnic (daily 9:30-20:00).