Between the Duomo and the Train Station
South of the Arno River, in the Oltrarno
Map: Oltrarno Hotels & Restaurants
Competition among hotels is stiff. When things slow down, fancy hotels drop their prices and become a much better value for travelers than the cheap, low-end places. For information and tips on pricing, getting deals, making reservations, seasonal differences (peak season versus off-season), and much more, see here of the Introduction.
I like hotels that are handy to the great sights. Nearly all of my recommended accommodations are located in the center of Florence. If arriving by train, you can either walk (usually around 10 minutes) or take a taxi (roughly €8-12) to reach most of my recommended accommodations, as buses don’t cover the city center very well.
Florence is notorious for its mosquitoes. If your hotel lacks air-conditioning, request a fan and don’t open your windows, especially at night. Many hotels furnish a small plug-in bulb (zanzariere)—usually set in the ashtray—that helps keep the blood-suckers at bay. If not, you can purchase one cheaply at any pharmacy (farmacia).
Museumgoers take note: If you don’t plan to get a Firenze Card (see here), you may want to ask if your hotelier will reserve entry times for you to visit the popular Uffizi Gallery and the Accademia (Michelangelo’s David). Request this service when you book your room; it’s fast, easy, and offered free or for a small fee by most hotels—the only requirement is advance notice. Ask them to reserve your visits for any time the day after your arrival. Most likely they’ll book by phone, then give you a confirmation number that you’ll take to the museum, where you’ll pay cash for your ticket. If your hotel does charge a fee, you could save several euros per reservation by booking it yourself (see here for details).
All of these places are within a block of Florence’s biggest church and main landmark.
$$$ Palazzo Niccolini al Duomo, one of five elite Historic Residence Hotels in Florence, is run by Niccolini da Camugliano. The lounge (where free chamomile tea is served in the evenings) is palatial, but the 12 rooms, while splendid, vary wildly in size. If you have the money and want a Florentine palace to call home, this can be a good bet (Db-€150-€500 depending on type of room, ask for 10 percent Rick Steves discount when you book, check online to choose a room and consider last-minute deals, elevator, air-con, free guest computer, Wi-Fi, Via dei Servi 2, tel. 055-282-412, www.niccolinidomepalace.com, info@niccolinidomepalace.com).
$$$ Hotel Duomo, big and venerable, rents 24 slightly overpriced rooms four floors up. The Duomo looms like a monster outside the hotel’s windows; most (but not all) rooms come with views. The rooms are modern and comfortable enough, but you’re paying for the location (Sb-€100, Db-€190, Tb-€230, 10 percent discount with this book if you pay cash, air-con, elevator, free Wi-Fi, Piazza del Duomo 1, tel. 055-219-922, www.hotelduomofirenze.it, info@hotelduomofirenze.it; Paolo and Gilvaneide).
$$ Residenza dei Pucci rents 12 pleasant rooms (each one different) spread over three floors. The decor, a mix of soothing earth tones and aristocratic furniture, makes this place feel upscale for this price range (Sb-€135, Db-€150, Tb-€170, Qb suite-€238, 10 percent discount with this book if you pay cash, air-con, no elevator, free Wi-Fi, reception open 9:00-20:00, shorter hours off-season—let them know if you’ll arrive late, Via dei Pucci 9, tel. 055-281-886, www.residenzadeipucci.com, residenzadeipucci@residenzadeipucci.com, friendly Mirella and Marina).
$$ Soggiorno Battistero rents seven simple, airy rooms, most with great views, overlooking the Baptistery and the Duomo square. Choose a view or a quieter room in the back when you book by email, but keep in mind there’s always some noise in the city center. It’s a pristine and minimalist place run by Italian Luca and his American wife Kelly, who makes the hotel particularly welcoming (Sb-€83, Db-€110, Tb-€145, Qb-€155, 5 percent discount if you book direct and pay cash, breakfast served in room, air-con available June-Aug, elevator, free Wi-Fi, Piazza San Giovanni 1, third floor, tel. 055-295-143, www.soggiornobattistero.it, info@soggiornobattistero.it).
$$ Residenza Giotto B&B offers the chance to stay on Florence’s upscale shopping drag, Via Roma. Occupying the top floor of a 19th-century building, this place has six bright, smallish rooms and a terrace with knockout views of the Duomo’s tower. Reception is generally open 9:00-17:00; let them know your arrival time in advance (Sb-€90, Db-€130, view rooms-€10 extra, extra bed-€25, 10 percent discount if you book direct and pay cash, air-con, elevator, free Wi-Fi, Via Roma 6, tel. 055-214-593, www.residenzagiotto.it, info@residenzagiotto.it, Giorgio).
$$ La Residenza del Proconsolo B&B, run by helpful Mariano, has five older-feeling rooms a minute from the Duomo (three rooms have Duomo views). The place lacks public spaces, but the rooms are quite large and nice—perfect for eating breakfast, which is served in your room (Sb-€90, Db-€120, Tb-€140, slightly larger “deluxe” with view-€20 more, air-con, no elevator, free Wi-Fi, Via del Proconsolo 18 black, tel. 055-264-5657, mobile 335-657-4840, www.proconsolo.com, info@proconsolo.com).
After dark, this neighborhood can feel a little deserted, but I’ve never heard of anyone running into harm here. It’s a short walk from the train station and an easy stroll to all the sightseeing action. While workaday, it’s practical, with plenty of good budget restaurants and markets nearby.
$$ Grand Tour Firenze has six charming rooms on a nondescript street between the train station and the Accademia. This cozy B&B will make you feel right at home; it’s thoughtfully appointed and the owners, Cristina and Giuseppe, live there. The delightful and spacious suites come with a garden ambience on the ground floor (Db-€115, suite-€130, 10 percent discount if you book direct and pay cash, includes breakfast voucher for the corner bar—or skip it to save €7/person, air-con, free Wi-Fi, Via Santa Reparata 21, tel. 055-283-955, www.florencegrandtour.com, info@florencegrandtour.com). They run another more romantic, pricier place a couple of blocks away.
$$ Galileo Hotel, a classy business hotel with 31 rooms on a chaotic and congested street, is run with familial warmth (Sb-€100, Db-€130, Tb-€160, Qb-€190, ask for 10 percent Rick Steves discount when you book direct and pay cash, quadruple-paned windows effectively shut out street noise, air-con, elevator, free guest computer, Wi-Fi, Via Nazionale 22a, tel. 055-496-645, www.galileohotel.it, info@galileohotel.it).
$ Hotel Il Bargellino, run by Bostonian Carmel and her Italian husband Pino, is in a residential neighborhood, still within walking distance of the center. They rent 10 summery rooms decorated with funky antiques and Pino’s modern paintings. Guests enjoy Leopoldo, the parrot, and relaxing on the big, breezy, momentum-slowing terrace adorned with plants and lemon shrubs (S-€45, D-€80, Db-€90, €5-10 more for room facing terrace, book direct and ask for the Rick Steves rate, extra bed-€25, no breakfast, free Wi-Fi, north of the train station at Via Guelfa 87, tel. 055-238-2658, www.ilbargellino.com, carmel@ilbargellino.com).
$ Casa Rabatti is the ultimate if you always wanted to have a Florentine mama. Its four simple, clean rooms are run with warmth by Marcella. This is a great place to practice your Italian, since Marcella loves to chat and speaks minimal English. Seeing nearly two decades of my family Christmas cards on their walls, I’m reminded of how long she has been keeping budget travelers happy (D-€50, Db-€60, €25 extra per bed in shared quad or quint, prices good with this book, cash only but secure reservation with credit card, no breakfast, fans available, free Wi-Fi, 5 blocks from station at Via San Zanobi 48 black, tel. 055-212-393, casarabatti@inwind.it).
$ Hotel Enza rents 18 straightforward rooms, some recently renovated. The prices are reasonable for predictable hotel comfort (Sb-€55, Db-€80, Tb-€100, these prices promised through 2014 with this book, no breakfast, air-con, no elevator, free guest computer, Wi-Fi, Via San Zanobi 45 black, tel. 055-490-990, www.hotelenza.it, info@hotelenza.it, Diana).
$$$ Hotel Loggiato dei Serviti, at the most prestigious address in Florence on the most Renaissance square in town, gives you Old World romance with hair dryers. Stone stairways lead you under open-beam ceilings through this 16th-century monastery’s monumental public rooms—it’s so artful, you’ll be snapping photos everywhere. The 38 cells—with air-conditioning, TVs, mini-bars, free Wi-Fi, and telephones—would be unrecognizable to their original inhabitants. The hotel staff is both professional and warm (Sb-€120, Db-€160, superior Db-€190, family suites from €280, ask for Rick Steves rate when you book, elevator, valet parking-€21/day, Piazza S.S. Annunziata 3, tel. 055-289-592, www.loggiatodeiservitihotel.it, info@loggiatodeiservitihotel.it; Simonetta, Gianni, and two Chiaras). When full, they rent five spacious and sophisticated rooms in a 17th-century annex a block away. While it lacks the monastic mystique, the annex rooms are bigger, gorgeous, and cost the same.
$$$ Hotel dei Macchiaioli offers 15 fresh and spacious rooms on one high-ceilinged, noble floor in a restored palazzo owned for generations by a well-to-do Florentine family. You’ll eat breakfast under original frescoed ceilings while enjoying modern comforts (Sb-€100, Db-€180, Tb-€220, 10 percent Rick Steves discount if you book direct and pay cash, air-con, free Wi-Fi, Via Cavour 21, tel. 055-213-154, www.hoteldeimacchiaioli.com, info@hoteldeimacchiaioli.com, helpful Francesca and Paolo).
$$ Hotel Morandi alla Crocetta, a former convent, envelops you in a 16th-century cocoon. Located on a quiet street with 12 rooms, period furnishings, parquet floors, and wood-beamed or painted ceilings, it takes you back a few centuries and up a few social classes (Sb-€105, Db-€155, Tb-€185, Qb-€199, air-con, no elevator, free Wi-Fi, a block off Piazza S.S. Annunziata at Via Laura 50, tel. 055-234-4747, www.hotelmorandi.it, welcome@hotelmorandi.it, well-run by Maurizio, Rolando, and Ertol).
$$ Hotel Europa, family run since 1970, has a welcoming atmosphere fostered by cheery Miriam, Roberto, and daughters Priscilla and Isabel. The breakfast room is spacious, and some of the 20 rooms have views of the Duomo (Sb-€89, Db-€150, Tb-€180, Qb-€250, slightly more for bigger “deluxe” room or a view, 10 percent discount if you pay cash, mention Rick Steves to get their best available room, air-con, old-timey elevator, free Wi-Fi, Via Cavour 14, tel. 055-239-6715, www.webhoteleuropa.com, firenze@webhoteleuropa.com).
$$ Residenza il Villino, popular and friendly, aspires to offer a Florentine home away from home. It has 10 charmingly rustic rooms and a picturesque, peaceful little courtyard. As it’s in a “little villa” (as the name implies) set back from the street, this is a quiet refuge from the bustle of Florence (Sb-€100, small Db-€110, Db-€130, family suite that sleeps up to 6—price upon request, 5 percent discount with this book if you pay cash, air-con, free guest computer, Wi-Fi, just north of Via degli Alfani at Via della Pergola 53, tel. 055-200-1116, www.ilvillino.it, info@ilvillino.it; Sergio—who looks a bit like Henry Winkler, Elisabetta, and son Lorenzo).
$$ Panella’s Residence, once a convent and today part of owner Graziella’s extensive home, is a classy B&B, with six chic, romantic, and ample rooms, antique furnishings, and historic architectural touches (Db-€155, bigger “deluxe” Db-€180, extra bed-€40, book direct and mention Rick Steves for these prices, discounts for cash and stays of 3 or more nights, air-con, free Wi-Fi, Via della Pergola 42, tel. 055-234-7202, mobile 345-972-1541, www.panellaresidence.com, panella_residence@yahoo.it).
$$ B&B Il Bargello is a home away from home, run by friendly and helpful Canadian expat Gabriella. Hike up three long flights (no elevator) to reach six smart, relaxing rooms. Gabriella offers a cozy communal living room, kitchen access, and an inviting rooftop terrace with close-up views of Florence’s towers (Db-€110, ask for Rick Steves rate when you book direct and pay cash, air-con, free guest computer, Wi-Fi, 20 yards off Via Proconsolo at Via de’ Pandolfini 33 black, tel. 055-215-330, mobile 339-175-3110, www.firenze-bedandbreakfast.it, info@firenze-bedandbreakfast.it).
$ Hotel Cardinal of Florence is a third-floor walk-up with 17 spartan, tidy, and sun-splashed rooms overlooking either a silent courtyard (many with views of Brunelleschi’s dome) or quiet street (may be closed for renovation in 2014). Relax and enjoy Florence’s rooftops from the sun terrace (Sb-€60, Db-€95, air-con, free Wi-Fi, Borgo Pinti 5, tel. 055-234-0780, www.hotelcardinalofflorence.com, info@hotelcardinalofflorence.com).
$ Hotel Dalí has 10 cheery rooms in a nice location for a great price. Samanta and Marco, who run this guesthouse with a charming passion and idealism, are a delight to know (S-€40, D-€70, Db-€85, extra bed-€25, request quiet room when you book, nearby apartments sleep 2-6 people, no breakfast, fans but no air-con, elevator, free Wi-Fi, free parking, 2 blocks behind the Duomo at Via dell’Oriuolo 17 on the second floor, tel. 055-234-0706, www.hoteldali.com, hoteldali@tin.it).
$ Oblate Sisters of the Assumption run an institutional 30-room hotel in a Renaissance building with a dreamy garden, great public spaces, appropriately simple rooms, and a quiet, prayerful ambience (€45/person in single, double, triple, or quad rooms with bathrooms, cash only, single beds only, family discounts available, air-con, elevator, Wi-Fi with suggested donation, €10/day limited parking—request when you book, Borgo Pinti 15, tel. 055-248-0582, sroblateborgopinti@virgilio.it, sisters are likely to speak French but not English, Sister Theresa is very helpful).
$ Locanda de’ Ciompi, overlooking the inviting Piazza dei Ciompi antique market in a young and lively neighborhood, is just right for travelers who want to feel like a part of the town. Alessio and Lisa run a minimalist place—just five quiet, clean, tasteful rooms along a thin hallway (Db-€100, Tb-€120, 10 percent discount with this book if you book direct and pay cash, includes breakfast at nearby bar, air-con, free Wi-Fi, 8 blocks behind the Duomo at Via Pietrapiana 28—see map on here, tel. 055-263-8034, www.bbflorencefirenze.com, info@bbflorencefirenze.com).
$ Hotel Il Duca—a big, bright place on a quiet street a few blocks behind the Duomo—seems like a basic building wearing a fancy coat. Its 13 pleasant rooms are a great value, but don’t expect a warm welcome or personal service (Sb-€85, Db-€90, third bed-€25, air-con, free Wi-Fi, Via della Pergola 34, tel. 055-906-2167, www.hotelilduca.it, info@hotelilduca.it, Angela).
These are the most central of my accommodations recommendations (and therefore a little overpriced). While worth the extra cost for many, given Florence’s walkable, essentially traffic-free core, nearly every hotel I recommend can be considered central.
$$$ In Piazza della Signoria B&B, overlooking Piazza della Signoria, is peaceful, refined, and homey at the same time. Fit for a honeymoon, the 10 rooms come with all the special touches and little extras you’d expect in a top-end American B&B. However, the rates are high, and the “partial view” rooms, while slightly larger, require craning your neck to see anything—not worth the extra euros (viewless Db-€250, partial-view Db-€280, full-view “deluxe” Db-€300, Tb-€280, partial-view Tb-€300, ask for 10 percent discount when you book direct with this book, family apartments, lavish bathrooms, air-con, tiny elevator, free guest computer, Wi-Fi, Via dei Magazzini 2, tel. 055-239-9546, mobile 348-321-0565, www.inpiazzadellasignoria.com, info@inpiazzadellasignoria.com, Sonia and Alessandro).
$$$ Hotel Pendini, with three stars and 42 rooms (most of them recently renovated), fills the top floor of a grand building constructed to celebrate Italian unification in the late 19th century. It overlooks Piazza della Repubblica, and as you walk into the lobby, you feel as if you are walking back in time (Sb-€139, Db-€189, deluxe Db with square view and noise-€239, air-con, elevator, free guest computer, Wi-Fi, Via degli Strozzi 2, tel. 055-211-170, www.hotelpendini.it, info@hotelpendini.it).
$$ B&B Dei Mori, a peaceful haven with a convivial and welcoming living room, rents five tastefully appointed rooms ideally located on a quiet pedestrian street near Casa di Dante—within a five-minute walk of the Duomo, the Bargello, or Piazza della Signoria. Accommodating Daniele (Danny) and Peter pride themselves on offering personal service, including lots of tips on dining and sightseeing in Florence. But if they’re full, I’d skip their offer of an apartment nearby (D-€110, Db-€130, minimum two-night stay, 10 percent discount for Rick Steves’ readers—ask when you book, air-con-€5, no elevator, free Wi-Fi, reception open 8:00-19:00, Via Dante Alighieri 12, tel. 055-211-438, www.deimori.com, deimori@bnb.it).
$$ Hotel Axial, on the main pedestrian drag, has 14 straightforward rooms, three-star amenities, and decent prices for the location (Sb-€84-104, Db-€139, book direct and use promo code “RICK” for 10 percent discount, air-con, elevator, free guest computer, Wi-Fi, Via de’ Calzaiuoli 11, tel. 055-218-984, www.hotelaxial.it, info@hotelaxial.it, Nicola).
$$ Hotel Maxim, two floors above their sister Hotel Axial (and one star below), has 26 simpler rooms and even lower rates (Sb-€70, Db-€104, Tb-€124, Qb-€144, book direct and use promo code “RICK” for 10 percent discount, air-con, elevator, free guest computer, Wi-Fi, Via de’ Calzaiuoli 11, tel. 055-217-474, www.hotelmaximfirenze.it, reservation@hotelmaximfirenze.it, Chiara).
$$$ Hotel Davanzati, bright and shiny with artistic touches, has 25 cheerful rooms with all the comforts. The place is a family affair, thoughtfully run by friendly Tommaso and father Fabrizio, who offer drinks and snacks each evening at their candlelit happy hour, plus lots of other extras (Sb-€132, Db-€199, Tb-€259, family rooms available, these rates good with this book though prices soft off-season, 10 percent discount if you pay cash, free loaner laptop in every room, free on-demand videos—including Rick Steves’ Italy shows—on your room TV, air-con, free Wi-Fi, next to Piazza Davanzati at Via Porta Rossa 5—easy to miss so watch for lowprofile sign above the door, tel. 055-286-666, www.hoteldavanzati.it, info@hoteldavanzati.it).
$$$ Hotel Torre Guelfa has grand (almost royal) public spaces and is topped by a fun medieval tower with a panoramic rooftop terrace. Its 31 pricey rooms vary wildly in size and layout. Room 315, with a private terrace (€260), is worth reserving several months in advance (Db-€170-200, Db junior suite-€250, ask for Rick Steves discount, family deals, check their website for promotions, air-con, elevator, free guest computer, Wi-Fi, a couple blocks northwest of Ponte Vecchio, Borgo S.S. Apostoli 8, tel. 055-239-6338, www.hoteltorreguelfa.com, info@hoteltorreguelfa.com, Niccolo and Barbara).
$$$ Relais Uffizi is a peaceful little gem, with 15 classy rooms tucked away down a tiny alleyway off Piazza della Signoria. The lounge has a huge window overlooking the action in the square below (Sb-€120, Db-€180, Tb-€220, more for deluxe rooms, buffet breakfast, air-con, elevator, free Wi-Fi, off Chiasso de Baroncelli through arch to Chiasso del Buco 16, tel. 055-267-6239, www.relaisuffizi.it, info@relaisuffizi.it, charming Alessandro and Elizabetta).
$$ Hotel Alessandra is 16th-century, tranquil, and sprawling, with 27 big, tasteful rooms and an old-school, peeling-wallpaper vibe (S-€67-88, Sb-€110, D-€110, Db-€150, Tb-€195, Qb-€215, 5 percent cash discount, air-con, 30 steps to the elevator, free guest computer, Wi-Fi, Borgo S.S. Apostoli 17, tel. 055-283-438, www.hotelalessandra.com, info@hotelalessandra.com, Anna and son Andrea).
$$$ Hotel Centrale is indeed central, just a short walk from the Duomo. The 31 spacious but slightly overpriced rooms—with a tasteful mix of old and new decor—are over a businesslike conference center (Db-€190, bigger superior Db-€237, Tb-€236, suites available, 10 percent discount with this book, ask for Rick Steves rate when you reserve, 20 percent discount if booked 3 months in advance, air-con, elevator, free guest computer, Wi-Fi, Via dei Conti 3, check in at big front desk on ground floor, tel. 055-215-761, www.hotelcentralefirenze.it, info@hotelcentralefirenze.it, Margherita and Roberto).
$$ Hotel Accademia, which comes with marble stairs, parquet floors, and attractive public areas, has 21 pleasant rooms and a floor plan that defies logic (Db-€145, Tb-€170, 10 percent discount with this book if you book direct and pay cash, air-con, no elevator, free guest computer, Wi-Fi, Via Faenza 7, tel. 055-293-451, www.hotelaccademiafirenze.com, info@hotelaccademiafirenze.com, Tea).
$ Hotel Lorena, just across from the Medici Chapels, has 19 rooms (six of which have shared bathrooms), a tiny lobby, and is run with care by the Galli family. Though it’s a bit like a youth hostel, it’s cheap and conveniently located (S-€35, Sb-€50, D-€60, Db-€75, Tb-€95, very flexible rates, breakfast-€5, air-con, free Wi-Fi, Via Faenza 1, tel. 055-282-785, www.hotellorena.com, info@hotellorena.com).
$ Katti House and the nearby Soggiorno Annamaria are run by house-proud mama-and-daughter team Maria and Katti, who rent a total of 15 simple rooms on a bustling, sometimes-noisy pedestrian street. While both offer comparable comfort, Soggiorno Annamaria has a more historic setting, with frescoed ceilings, unique tiles, timbered beams, and quieter rooms. Katti House serves as reception for both places, but mostly you interact with Maria; while she’s a fine hostess, she speaks virtually no English so communication can be challenging (Sb-€85, D-€85, Db-€100, air-con, no elevator, free guest computer, Wi-Fi—only in Katti, Via Faenza 21, if no answer check in at Trattoria Katti next door, tel. 055-213-410, www.kattihouse.com, info@kattihouse.com). They also have several newer rooms located a five-minute walk north on busy Via Nazionale.
$$ Bellevue House is a third-floor (no elevator) oasis of tranquility, with six spacious, old-fashioned rooms flanking a long, mellow-yellow lobby. It’s a peaceful time warp thoughtfully run by the Michel family (Db-€110, Tb-€120, Qb-€140, 10 percent discount if you book direct and stay two nights, no breakfast, air-con, free Wi-Fi, Via della Scala 21, tel. 055-260-8932, www.bellevuehouse.it, info@bellevuehouse.it).
$ Albergo Margaret, homey yet minimalist, doesn’t have a public lounge or offer breakfast. Run by the Cristantielli family, it has seven tidy, simple rooms (D-€40, Ds-€60, Db-€75, 10 percent discount if you book direct and pay cash, extra bed-€10, air-con, free Wi-Fi, near Santa Maria Novella at Via della Scala 25, tel. 055-210-138, www.hotel-margaret.it, info@hotel-margaret.it; Francesco, Anna, and Graziano).
These two hostels, northeast of downtown, are a bus ride from the action. A far more central hostel is in the Oltrarno (see listing at the end of this chapter).
$ Villa Camerata, classy for an IYHF hostel, is in a pretty villa three miles northeast of the train station, on the outskirts of Florence (€24/bed with breakfast, 4- to 6-bed rooms, members pay €3/night less, private rooms available, free Wi-Fi, self-serve laundry, Viale Augusto Righi 2—take bus #11 from the train station to Salviatino or bus #17 to Via Cento Stelle, tel. 055-601-451, www.aighostels.com, firenze@aighostels.com).
$ Hostel 7 Santi calls itself a “travelers’ haven.” It fills a former convent, but you’ll feel like you’re in an old school. Still, it offers some of the best cheap beds in town, is friendly to older travelers, and comes with the services you’d expect in a big, modern hostel, including free Wi-Fi and self-serve laundry. It’s in a more residential neighborhood near the Campo di Marte stadium, about a 10-minute bus ride from the center (200 beds in 60 rooms, mostly 4- or 6-bed dorms with a floor of doubles and triples, €16-18/dorm bed, Sb-€45, Db-€60, Tb-€70, Qb-€80, includes sheets and towels, breakfast and dinner available but cost extra, no curfew, free guest computer, Wi-Fi; Viale dei Mille 11—from train station, take bus #10, #17, or #20, direction: Campo di Marte, to bus stop Chiesa dei Sette Santi; tel. 055-504-8452, www.7santi.com, info@7santi.com).
Across the river in the Oltrarno area, between the Pitti Palace and Ponte Vecchio, you’ll find small, traditional crafts shops, neighborly piazzas, and family eateries. The following places are an easy walk from Ponte Vecchio. Only the first two are real hotels—the rest are a ragtag gang of budget alternatives.
$$$ Hotel Silla is a classic three-star hotel with 36 cheery, spacious rooms. On the opposite side of the river from Santa Croce Church, it has a breezy terrace and faces the river, overlooking a small park. Still, it can get a bit noisy from the surrounding neighborhood (Db-€180, bigger “superior” Db-€210, Tb-€230, book direct and use promo code “RICK” for 10 percent discount, extra bed-€35, air-con, elevator, free guest computer, Wi-Fi, parking-€19/day, Via dei Renai 5—see map on here, tel. 055-234-2888, www.hotelsilla.it, hotelsilla@hotelsilla.it; Laura, Chiara, Massimo, and Stefano).
$$ Hotel la Scaletta has 28 functional but colorful rooms hiding in a tortured floor plan, plus a fabulous rooftop terrace overlooking the Boboli Gardens (Db-€125, slightly more for new “superior” rooms, third bed-€20, family suite that sleeps up to 6-€239, breakfast-€7, air-con, elevator, free guest computer, Wi-Fi, Via de’ Guicciardini 13, tel. 055-283-028, www.hotellascaletta.it, info@hotellascaletta.it).
$ Soggiorno Alessandra has five bright, comfy, and smallish rooms. Because of its double-paned windows, you’ll hardly notice the traffic noise (D-€70, Db-€75, Tb-€100, Qb-€130, includes basic breakfast in room, air-con-€5, free Wi-Fi, just past the Carraia Bridge at Via Borgo San Frediano 6, tel. 055-290-424, www.soggiornoalessandra.it, info@soggiornoalessandra.it, Alessandra).
$ Casa Santo Nome di Gesù is a grand, 29-room convent whose sisters—Franciscan Missionaries of Mary—are thankful to rent rooms to tourists. Staying in this 15th-century palace, you’ll be immersed in the tranquil atmosphere created by a huge, peaceful garden, generous and prayerful public spaces, and smiling nuns. As with the Istituto Gould, next, it’s a good value and understandably popular—it’s best to reserve a couple of months in advance (D-€70, Db-€85, T-€100, Tb-€120, extra bed-€15, book direct to avoid fees, no air-con but rooms have fans, elevator, free Wi-Fi, memorable convent-like breakfast room, 1:00 in the morning curfew, parking-€10, Piazza del Carmine 21, tel. 055-213-856, www.fmmfirenze.it, info@fmmfirenze.it).
$ Istituto Gould is a Protestant Church-run place with 40 clean and spartan rooms that have twin beds and modern facilities. It’s located in a 17th-century palace overlooking a beautiful garden courtyard. The complex also houses kids from troubled homes, and proceeds raised from renting rooms help fund that important work (Sb-€55, Db-€60, €20 more for garden rooms that are quieter and have air-con, Tb-€84, Qb-€100, breakfast-€6, non-air-con rooms have fans, free Wi-Fi in lobby, Via dei Serragli 49, tel. 055-212-576, www.istitutogould.it, foresteriafirenze@diaconiavaldese.org). You must arrive when the office is open (Mon-Fri 8:45-13:00 & 15:00-19:30, Sat 9:00-13:30 & 14:30-18:00, no live check-in on Sundays but they’ll email you a code).
Hostel: $ Ostello Santa Monaca is a well-run, institutional-feeling hostel a long block east of the Brancacci Chapel. As clean as its guests, its 112 beds in 13 rooms (2- to 20-bed dorms) attract a young backpacking crowd (€18-26/bed, includes sheets and towel, 10:00-14:00 lock-out, 2:00 in the morning curfew, free guest computer, free Wi-Fi, self-serve laundry, kitchen, bike rental, Via Santa Monaca 6, tel. 055-268-338, www.ostellosantamonaca.com, info@ostellosantamonaca.com).
The Tuscan countryside south of Florence is loaded with enticing rural farms offering accommodations, called agriturismi (for details, see here).
There are several places south of Florence to consider that are within 30 minutes of the city. The rustic and cozy $$ Villa Salvadonica has a gorgeous setting overlooking rolling Tuscan hills (Db-€125-150, superior rooms and suites also available, Via Grevigiana 82, Mercatale Val di Pesa, tel. 055-821-8039, www.salvadonica.com). $$ Villa Il Poggiale is a serene manor house with classy and spacious rooms and expansive countryside views (Db-€69-200, Via Empolese 69, San Casciano Val di Pesa, tel. 055-828-311, www.villailpoggiale.it). The spa hotel $$$ Villa I Barronci offers a relaxing respite from sightseeing (Db-€179-200, Via Sorripa 10, San Casciano Val di Pesa, tel. 055-820-598, www.ibarronci.com).
Another option about 45 minutes south of Florence is in the Chianti region: $$$ I Greppi di Silli is a lovely, family-run agriturismo set among rolling hills. Owners Anna and Giuliano Alfani cultivate Chianti grapes and olive trees, and offer six carefully remodeled apartments with beds for 2-6 people, some with panoramic views and/or terraces; a seventh apartment (sleeps 8) is a mile away in an old country house (Db-€115-280 or €735-1,900/week, price depends on apartment, less off-season; one-week minimum—Sat-to-Sat—in July-Aug, fewer nights possible in shoulder and low season—but generally still a 3-night minimum; breakfast extra, pool, kids’ play area, table tennis, bocce ball court, loaner bikes, weekly farm dinners-€30/person—less for kids, Via Vallacchio 19, near San Casciano and just outside the village of Mercatale Val di Pesa, about 45 minutes’ drive to Florence or San Gimignano and one hour from Siena, tel. 055-821-7956, www.igreppidisilli.it, info@igreppidisilli.it).
If you want to go farther afield, I’ve listed several good choices near Siena (see here) and throughout the Tuscan Hill Towns chapter.
Apartment rentals are a great value for families or multiple couples traveling together. Rentals are generally by the week, with prices starting around €100 per day. A bigger place for a group of four to five rents for around €200. Apartments generally offer a couple of bedrooms, a sitting area, and a teensy cucinetta (kitchenette), usually stocked with dishes and flatware. After you check in, you’re basically on your own. While you won’t have a doorman to carry your bags or a maid to clean your room each day, you will get an inside peek at an Italian home, and you can save lots of money—especially if you take advantage of the cooking facilities—with no loss of comfort.
Cross-Pollinate, an online booking agency, represents B&Bs and apartments in a handful of European cities, including Florence. Unlike huge aggregator websites like HomeAway or VRBO, Cross-Pollinate handpicks its listings. Search their website for a listing you like, then submit your reservation online. If the place is available, you’ll be charged a small deposit and emailed the location and check-in details. Policies vary from owner to owner, but in most cases you’ll pay the balance on arrival in cash. Florence listings range from €55 to €250 per night, and minimum stays vary from one to three nights (US tel. 800-270-1190, Italy tel. 06-9936-9799, www.cross-pollinate.com, info@cross-pollinate.com).