Pure Beef

For years, I failed to recognize the wonders of ground beef. Then one day I owned about thirty pounds of it.

Growing up, ground beef was a given. My mother bought the pink-and-white-flecked meat on a Styrofoam tray every week, and it appeared on my plate as brown crumbles in spaghetti sauce or rounded into meatballs. As an adult, I thought of it as cheap meat—characterless, limiting, and mundane—but cooking all that grassfed ground beef from my first cow-share gave me plenty of opportunities to recognize how wrong I was.

Ground beef is the most plentiful beef cut there is. More than one-third of every carcass gets ground from the trim produced when breaking the animal down into manageable pieces. It comes from every part of the cow, making ground beef the very definition of nose-to-tail eating. Ground is also the most affordable and accessible way to try one of the artisan beef brands on the market, be it natural, organic, or grassfed. One pound can feed several people, but cheapness is only part of its value.

Ground beef is a marvel. For creative cooks, it is the most versatile meat cut there is, with no preference for being grilled or fried, simmered or baked, braised or broiled.

Chances are, the last time you ate ground beef was in the form of a hamburger. This chapter kicks off with a learning recipe for a 100 percent grassfed hamburger that will guide you through all of the steps from shaping to grilling—along with a whole-wheat bun that it deserves. From there you’ll be primed for Thai-Style Hamburger Wraps (page 75) and Feta-Stuffed Sliders with Tahini-Yogurt Sauce (page 84).

This chapter then ventures beyond the hamburger to explore the world of cooking with ground beef. Its inspiration ranges from old-time cookbooks that treasured frugality to international cookbooks where ground beef is called “mince.” You’ll find exciting variations on meatloaf, including Miso-Glazed Meatloaf (page 77) and one dressed up in puff pastry for Poor Man’s Beef Wellingtons (page 80). Along with satisfying meat-ball dishes, casseroles and stews, there are updated versions of time-tested recipes, such as Indian-Spiced Stuffed Peppers (page 98) and Lemony Chard Bundles (page 94).

Skillet suppers like Joe’s Special (page 83) can sustain you midweek, while weekend projects like Beef Ravioli with Sage Butter Sauce (page 96) are their own reward. In cooking—or browsing—your way through this chapter, you’ll see, as I did, that ground beef is valuable and practical, and when given its full due, can be quite extraordinary.

Ground Beef Choice Cuts:

GROUND BEEF SAFETY TIPS

Although I trust in the source for the beef I buy, I still play it safe in the kitchen with all raw meat, especially ground beef. Grinding greatly increases the surface area, making ground beef more susceptible to bacterial growth, unlike a roast, which only has a limited surface area exposed.

Temperature is one of the main firewalls to maintain safety, and it’s critical to keep ground beef chilled below 40°F. When I’m making hamburgers, I take the beef out of the refrigerator only when I’m ready to form the patties. If I haven’t started the grill yet or won’t cook them within fifteen to twenty minutes, I cover the patties and put them back into the refrigerator.

Sanitation is the other key to food safety. Hot, soapy water, and preferably a sanitizing solution, will help to prevent food-borne illness. I have two strategies for avoiding cross-contamination—the spread of bacteria to other foods, cutting boards, and other work surfaces. When I’m making meatloaf or meatballs, I collect all my ingredients first and add the ground beef last. I mix with one hand, so that I can keep the other one clean in case I need to turn on a water faucet, open a drawer, or answer the phone. If all goes well, I won’t have to pause to wash my hands until after I’ve patted the meatloaf into the pan or rounded the meatballs. Afterwards, I dispatch any utensils, bowls, and the cutting board into the dishwasher for sanitizing and spray my work counter with a light solution of one teaspoon bleach to one quart of water.

CUSTOM-GROUND HAMBURGERS

Freshly ground beef is the ultimate burger experience. In New York City and Las Vegas restaurants, custom-ground hamburgers go for eighteen dollars and up. The key is the grind—a top-secret blend of ground beef specialized for each restaurant that can include a combination of chuck, short ribs, brisket, and even spendy dry-aged steaks.

It’s simple to create your own signature burger using a meat grinder (hand-crank or electric). You can also chop the beef in a food processor or by hand so long as the meat you choose has no sinew (e.g., short ribs) to cut through.

One of my favorite blends is chuck roast with short ribs—two cuts with exceptional flavor. Play around with your own favorites to make the very best burger you’ve ever had—for much less than eighteen bucks.

If you like steak tartare, grinding or chopping your own is the way to go, so that it’s very fresh. Tenderloin is the classic cut for tartare, but don’t ignore other even tastier choices, including top blade steak, aka flatiron, or shoulder tender, aka teres major, both exquisite cuts from the chuck.

The perfect hamburger begins before you put it on the grill. If you pay attention to how you handle the meat, how you shape it, and when you salt it, you’ll get burgers with just the right loose, tender texture and the right size for the bun.

My ideal is a one-third pound burger, evenly shaped about one inch thick and four inches across. Handling the ground beef just enough, but not too much, I pat it into a neat disk, round the edges, and make a depression in the center so that it doesn’t inflate into a hamburger ball while cooking. I cook my burgers to medium rare over high heat. If you like medium or medium well, just be sure to finish cooking the burger away from the flame.

Serve this burger on the best bun you can find. If you’re lucky enough to have a bakery making its own hamburger buns, stock up. Or, bake and freeze a batch of homemade Whole-Wheat Hamburger Buns (recipe follows) to pull out whenever that burger craving hits you. An excellent homemade ketchup (recipe follows) along with your choice of lettuce leaves, tomato, and onion slices—what have you—puts this burger over the top.

Prepare a gas or charcoal grill for high heat (425°F to 475°F), scrape the grate clean, and oil it lightly. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper and spoon some salt into a small bowl. Divide the ground beef into 6 mounds on the baking sheet. Scoop up a mound in each hand and judge their weight as best you can. If they seem about the same, put one of the mounds down and pick up another one, again judging its weight against the first. Continue in this fashion with each of the mounds, and add or subtract some of the ground beef to make them as equal as you can. (For complete accuracy, use a scale with a piece of plastic wrap over the plate).

Use both hands to gently press one mound into a 1-inch-thick disk about 4 inches wide. Then, rotate it between your palms to even up the edges without smashing it. Put the disk back on the parchment paper and use your thumb to make a quarter-sized impression about ¼-inch deep in the center. Repeat with the 5 remaining mounds of ground beef and season both sides of the patties with the kosher salt. (If you will not be grilling the hamburgers within the next 15 to 20 minutes, cover and refrigerate.)

When the grill is so hot that you can only hold your hand 4 inches above it for 5 seconds or less, place the patties on the hottest part of the grill. Cook them for 3 to 3½ minutes, then flip and cook for 3 to 3½ minutes more for medium rare. (For medium, slide the burgers to the coolest part of the grill—or turn it off. Close the lid, and cook for 1 to 3 minutes longer.) Discard the parchment paper from the baking sheet and arrange the cooked hamburgers on it. If desired, grill the buns, cut side down, for 1 to 2 minutes, and serve with ketchup and your favorite toppings.

The perfect grassfed burger needs a worthy bun—and good ones are hard to find. To make this whole-wheat bun, I called on my bread baking training in France and Mel Darbyshire, head baker of the Grand Central Baking Company in Portland. It is tender to the bite and moist but stands up to a substantial burger. The user-friendly dough can be mixed by machine or hand. It rises once before you pat it flat and stamp out rounds—just like making biscuits. The second rise occurs in short order before baking, cooling, and splitting them to eat within a day, or to freeze for up to one month.

To mix the dough, whisk the whole-wheat flour, all-purpose flour, sugar, yeast, and salt in the bowl of a stand mixer, a food processor, or a large mixing bowl. In a large measuring cup, whisk together the milk, oil, and egg. Pour the liquids into the dry ingredients and stir together with a few strokes of a rubber spatula to form a rough dough.

If using a stand mixer, attach the dough hook and mix on medium speed for 8 minutes. The dough will clear the sides of the bowl, but may stick to the bottom. Using the spatula, scrape the dough hook and the bottom of the bowl to collect the dough into a ball.

If using a food processor, use the dough blade and pulse the machine until the dough comes together in a ball. Run the machine for 1 minute to knead it.

If kneading by hand, work the spatula firmly through the dough to collect as much of the flour as you can. Scrape the dough onto an unfloured countertop. Set a kitchen timer for 12 minutes and knead rhythmically but not hurriedly. The dough will become very elastic and will be tacky. Using the spatula, collect the dough, including any scraps from the counter and your hands, into a ball. Flour your hands and place the dough back into the bowl.

Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and leave it at room temperature for 1½ to 2 hours until the dough doubles in volume.

To shape and bake the buns, line a large baking sheet with parchment paper. Dust the counter with flour and tip out the dough, scraping the bowl with a rubber spatula to release it in one large clump. Flour your hands and press the dough ¾ inch thick. Dust a biscuit cutter about 3½ inches in diameter to cut out 8 circles, collecting the dough and patting it down again 1 to 2 times until all the dough gets used. Space them onto the baking sheet and press them with your palm so that they are 4 to 4½ inches wide. Let them rise uncovered for 30 to 45 minutes until they are about 1½ inches high.

Preheat the oven to 350°F with the racks centered in the oven. Brush the tops of the buns lightly with water and sprinkle with the flax seeds. Bake until they are golden brown, 16 to 18 minutes. Cool to room temperature before splitting with a bread knife and store at room temperature or in the freezer in a resealable plastic bag.

I’ve searched for ages for a ketchup recipe that was better than bottled, and I found it in an unexpected place: a Portland food cart called Lardo. Chef Rick Gencarelli serves this outstanding ketchup with fries that accompany every one of his pork-lover’s sandwiches. One dip and I was smitten.

Heat the oil in a small saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion and garlic and cook until the onion turns translucent, about 3 minutes. Add the paprika, cayenne, allspice, and cinnamon and cook until the spices are fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the tomato paste and cook for 30 seconds. Add the brown sugar, vinegar, and tomatoes, and bring the mixture to a boil. Reduce the heat to low and cook until the mixture is reduced to a thick tomato sauce, 45 to 50 minutes. If you have an immersion blender purée the mixture right in the saucepan, or cool to room temperature and transfer it to a blender and purée until very smooth. Transfer the ketchup to a glass container and chill in the refrigerator for 2 hours. Store for up to 2 weeks.

There are many great American cheeses to melt onto a deserving hamburger, including aged goat, farmhouse Cheddar, and blue. But the ultimate cheeseburger in my book is one made with the Southern spread called pimento cheese. (I also use it to make the best grilled cheese sandwiches.) Based on a recipe by Atlanta chef Scott Peacock, this pimento cheese mixture offers so much cheesy, oniony, spiciness to a cheeseburger that I find no other condiments are required.

Combine the grated cheese, mayonnaise, red pepper, onion, and cayenne in a small mixing bowl until well blended and creamy. Taste and if it needs a bit of salt, add a pinch. Cover and refrigerate the cheese spread until about 20 minutes before you’re ready to use it.

When the burgers are nearly cooked to your liking, slide them to the coolest part of the grill so that you don’t risk overcooking them. Put 2 heaping tablespoon-sized dollops on top, close the grill lid or cover the pan, and heat until melted.

INSIDE-OUT HAMBURGERS

Hamburgers stuffed with savory ingredients are more than a novelty: they’re practical, economical, and an insurance plan for moist burgers. This approach also bulks up the burgers, so you need less meat for a good-sized burger that fits the bun. And, you won’t ever overcook your grassfed burger waiting for the cheese to melt. Take care while flipping because these burgers are a bit delicate.

To form these burgers, put the ingredients listed into a medium mixing bowl. Break up one pound of ground beef into the bowl and gently mix it together as if you’re making meatloaf but with a gentle hand to avoid compacting the meat. Shape the mixture into four 4-inch wide and ¾-inch-thick hamburger patties. Season them well with kosher salt on both sides before grilling, pan-searing, or broiling.

Blue Cheese-Bacon:

5 ounces bacon (about 4 strips), chopped and fried until crisp

3 ounces aged blue cheese, cut into ¼-inch cubes and chilled (about ½ cup)

Served with Herb Aïoli (page 187)

Mushroom-Cheddar:

½ cup cooked chopped mushrooms

3 ounces Cheddar cheese, cut into ¼-inch cubes and chilled (about ½ cup)

Served with Harissa (page 129)

Green Chile-Monterey Jack:

1 (4-ounce) can diced green chilies, well drained

3 ounces Monterey Jack cheese, cut into ¼-inch cubes and chilled (about ½ cup)

Served with Avocado-Tomatillo Salsa (page 151)

THAI-STYLE HAMBURGER WRAPS

When I read about a Thai hamburger at a hip LA restaurant, I had to create one for myself. These hamburgers are mixed and shaped in advance to let the sweet and spicy flavors work their way through the ground beef, which takes only twenty minutes. Wrapped inside crisp lettuce leaves and topped with quick-pickled onions and tomatoes, it’s a fresh take on good old burgers that’s perfect for gluten-free and carb-conscious friends.

Makes 6 servings

1 SMALL SHALLOT, MINCED

1-INCH PIECE GINGER, PEELED AND VERY FINELY CHOPPED (1 TABLESPOON)

1 STALK LEMONGRASS, MINCED

2 TEASPOONS PACKED LIGHT BROWN SUGAR

1 TABLESPOON FISH SAUCE

1 TABLESPOON LIME JUICE

¼ CUP SWEET CHILE SAUCE, PLUS ADDITIONAL FOR SERVING

6 FRESH THAI BASIL LEAVES, FINELY CHOPPED

¾ TEASPOON SALT

1½ POUNDS GROUND BEEF, 75 TO 85 PERCENT LEAN

1 RED ONION, VERY THINLY SLICED

¼ CUP SEASONED RICE WINE VINEGAR

1 MEDIUM RIPE TOMATO, SLICED

6 LARGE TENDER LETTUCE LEAVES, SUCH AS BIBB OR RED LEAF

6 CILANTRO SPRIGS, FOR SERVING

Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Combine the shallot, ginger, lemongrass, brown sugar, fish sauce, lime juice, sweet chile sauce, basil, and salt in a large mixing bowl. Break up the ground beef into the bowl and knead the ingredients with a rubber spatula or your hands until thoroughly blended. Portion the ground beef mixture into 6 equal mounds, weighing them in your hands two by two, and adjust to make them as equal as possible.

Working with one mound of ground beef at a time, use both hands to press it gently into a 1-inch-thick oval. Put the patty on the parchment paper and use your thumbs to make a nickel-sized impression ¼-inch deep in the center. Repeat with the remaining ground beef mixture. Cover and chill in the refrigerator to marinate for about 20 minutes—much longer and the beef starts to get mushy.

Prepare a gas or charcoal grill for high heat (425°F to 475°F), scrape the grate clean, and oil it lightly. Place the onion into a small bowl and pour the seasoned rice wine vinegar over it and add just enough water to cover. Marinate for 15 to 20 minutes, drain, and set the onion aside on a platter along with the sliced tomato, lettuce leaves, and cilantro.

Discard the parchment paper from the baking sheet and arrange the cooked hamburgers on it. Brush them with the sweet chile sauce, serving any extra sauce in a small dish on the side. To serve, place 1 lettuce leaf on each plate and put a hamburger on it, then top with a tomato slice, pickled onion, and cilantro. Fold the lettuce over the hamburger to eat as a wrap or use a knife and fork.

HAMBURGER STEAKS IN ONION CREAM SAUCE

Commonly known as Salisbury steak, this recipe dates from a time when a hamburger was considered a luxury item. Based on Julia Child’s Mastering the Art of French Cooking, it is served on a plate without the bun to be eaten with a fork and knife. It makes a comforting wintertime supper I enjoy with a glass of red wine and steamed broccoli to share some of the cream sauce.

For other departures from the standard hamburger, use this recipe to build two old-school fast food favorites. To make a loco moco, mound steamed white rice with the cooked patty, pour on the sauce, and gild it all with a fried egg. To make a patty melt, skip the cream sauce and sandwich the cooked hamburger, the onions, and slices of sharp Cheddar with rye bread, then cook in a hot buttered skillet until toasted on both sides.

Makes 4 servings

2 TEASPOONS EXTRA-VIRGIN OLIVE OIL

1 LARGE ONION, CHOPPED

¼ CUP ALL-PURPOSE FLOUR

2 TABLESPOONS LIGHTLY PACKED FINELY CHOPPED FRESH PARSLEY

1 TEASPOON FRESH THYME OR ½ TEASPOON DRIED

½ TEASPOON WORCESTERSHIRE SAUCE

1¾ TEASPOONS SALT, DIVIDED

¼ TEASPOON BLACK PEPPER

1 POUND GROUND BEEF, 85 TO 90 PERCENT LEAN

1½ TABLESPOONS UNSALTED BUTTER

1½ CUPS HALF-AND-HALF

⅛ TEASPOON GROUND NUTMEG

Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium-low heat. When it slides across the pan, add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until it is caramel colored, about 8 minutes. Transfer the onion into a small bowl and set it aside.

Spread the flour on a large dinner plate. Combine the parsley, thyme, Worcestershire sauce, 1¼ teaspoons of the salt, and pepper in a large mixing bowl. Break apart the ground beef into the bowl and gently knead the ingredients with a rubber spatula or your hands until the mixture is well blended. Divide it into 4 equal shares and shape into 4 oval patties ¾ inch thick. Dust them with the flour and leave them on the plate.

Melt the butter in the skillet over medium-high heat. When the butter foams, shake any excess flour from the patties and cook them until they are well browned, 3½ to 4 minutes per side for medium rare. (For medium, reduce the heat to low and cook the patties for 1 to 3 minutes more.) Transfer the patties onto a clean plate, cover them with aluminum foil, and keep them in a warm place near the stove.

Reduce the heat to medium low, add the half-and-half and the reserved onion, and simmer until the cream sauce coats a spoon, about 10 minutes. Season with the remaining ½ teaspoon salt and nutmeg and taste for salt. Serve each patty with a generous spoonful of the hot cream sauce.

MISO-GLAZED MEATLOAF

with Quick Pickled Cucumber Salad

I’m going to come right out and say it: this meat-loaf “frosted” with miso is not as pretty as a picture. But, it’s a fabulous way to taste the complex interaction among the amino acids in miso and beef. It produces that captivating fifth flavor called umami (in addition to hot, sour, salty, and sweet). An American-style hambaagu with miso is a popular snack food in Japan, and I translated it into a meatloaf patted thin for lots of glazing surface area. Miso, a salty, intensely flavored fermented soybean paste, lifts a simple meatloaf mixture onto a higher plane. Red miso ranges in color depending on the grain blends and fermentation time, and I used a mild, pale-colored brand. Serve portions over steamed short-grain white rice with Quick-Pickled Cucumber Salad (recipe follows) on the side.

Makes 4 servings

¼ CUP MILD RED MISO (SOURCES, PAGE 272)

2 TABLESPOONS SAKE, DIVIDED

1 TABLESPOON PONZU SAUCE, OPTIONAL

1 TEASPOON SUGAR

1 SMALL ONION, VERY FINELY CHOPPED

1 EGG, BEATEN

2 TABLESPOONS SOY SAUCE

⅔ CUP COARSE, DRY BREADCRUMBS

1 POUND GROUND BEEF, 85 TO 90 PERCENT LEAN

4 OUNCES GROUND PORK

Preheat the oven to 350°F and have a square 8-inch baking pan on hand.

Whisk the miso with 1 tablespoon of the sake, the ponzu, if using, and the sugar in a small bowl until smooth. Combine half of the miso mixture in a large mixing bowl with the onion, egg, soy sauce, breadcrumbs, and the remaining tablespoon of sake. Break up the ground beef and pork into the bowl and knead the ingredients together gently using your hands until thoroughly blended. Transfer the ground beef mixture into the baking pan, gently pressing it evenly and into the corners.

Use a rubber spatula to spread the remaining miso mixture evenly over the top of the meatloaf. Bake until the meatloaf pulls away from the sides of the pan and an instant-read thermometer registers 155°F, 35 to 40 minutes.

QUICK-PICKLED CUCUMBER SALAD

Makes 4 servings

2 LARGE CUCUMBERS, PEELED

¼ CUP RICE WINE VINEGAR

2 TABLESPOONS SUGAR

1 TEASPOON SOY SAUCE

PINCH OF RED PEPPER FLAKES

Slice the cucumbers in half lengthwise and use a teaspoon to scrape out the seeds. Slice them very thin on the diagonal and put them into a bowl. In a separate bowl, whisk the rice wine vinegar, sugar, soy sauce, and pepper flakes until the sugar dissolves. Pour the dressing over the cucumbers, stir, and let the flavors develop at room temperature for about 30 minutes while the meatloaf bakes.

PURE BEEF MEATLOAF

Traditionally, meatloaf is a combination of beef, pork, and sometimes veal. I love the firmness and meatiness of this 100 percent beef meatloaf, where the taste of grassfed beef isn’t lost in the mix. In the time it takes for my oven to preheat, I assemble and shape this meatloaf into a free-form log so the sides and the top crisp and brown. (If you tend to like your hamburgers medium well to well, this mix is great for burgers with built-in moisture insurance.)

In the dead of our mountain winter, meatloaf is my family’s favorite with Oven Steak Fries (page 188) and Beet-Carrot Slaw (page 121). For myself, I rewarm any leftover slices to make an open-faced sandwich on whole-wheat toast topped with Tangy Barbecue Sauce (page 223) and pickled jalapeños. Try the variation with quinoa to make it gluten-free and nutty-tasting. Both meatloaf mixtures can be used for meatballs described in the variation.

Makes 6 servings

1 CUP FINE, DRY BREADCRUMBS

1 SMALL ONION, FINELY CHOPPED

1 GARLIC CLOVE, MINCED

½ CUP TOMATO SAUCE

1 TABLESPOON MOLASSES

1 EGG, BEATEN

½ CUP LIGHTLY PACKED CHOPPED FRESH PARSLEY

1¼ TEASPOONS SALT

½ TEASPOON BLACK PEPPER

1½ POUNDS GROUND BEEF, 85 TO 90 PERCENT LEAN

3 SLICES BACON, CUT IN HALF, OPTIONAL

Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper and set it aside. Preheat the oven to 375°F.

Combine the breadcrumbs, onion, garlic, tomato sauce, molasses, egg, parsley, salt, and pepper in a large mixing bowl. Break up the ground beef into the bowl and and knead with a rubber spatula or your hands until well blended. Mound the meat mixture onto the prepared baking sheet and use your hands to shape into a log, roughly 8 inches long and 4½ inches wide. Drape the bacon slices over the top of the meatloaf with the edges touching, if using.

Bake until it is well browned, sizzling on the bottom, and an instant-read thermometer registers 155°F, 40 to 45 minutes. Cool for 10 minutes for better slicing.

VARIATION: GLUTEN-FREE MEATLOAF

¾ CUP QUINOA

¼ TEASPOON SALT

Bring 1 cup of water to a boil in a small saucepan over high heat. Add the quinoa and salt, reduce the heat to low, cover, and steam for 10 to 14 minutes until the water is absorbed and the quinoa is tender to the bite. Transfer the quinoa into a bowl, cool to room temperature, and use it in place of the breadcrumbs in the recipe.

VARIATION: MEATBALLS

Use either the standard or gluten-free meatloaf mixture to shape meatballs, large (1¾ inches in diameter and 2 ounces each) or small (1 inch in diameter and 1 ounce each). Arrange them in a single layer on an ungreased baking sheet and preheat the oven to 375°F. Bake the large meatballs for 20 to 22 minutes and the small meat-balls for 15 to 17 minutes. Alternatively, you can fry the meatballs in a large skillet over medium heat, working in batches and turning them 2 to 3 times until browned and cooked through.

POOR MAN’S BEEF WELLINGTONS

I made it a mission to bring beef wellington down to size simply because I love puff pastry, but rarely have any tenderloin on hand, the traditional meat secreted inside a beef wellington. And, I made them into single-serving sizes to offer more pastry per beef bite. They’re as cute as cupcakes.

In my view, meatloaf is a superior choice for Wellington because it’s far more economical and hard to overcook. Besides, it’s fun to dress up meatloaf with a mushroom-bacon topping all wrapped up in a puff pastry crust. With steamed vegetables on the side, you have a princely meal fit for company. I enjoy these as is, but if you fancy a sauce, follow the instructions to make the sauce for Porcini-Rubbed Tenderloin with Saba Sauce (page 207) omitting the saba or serve with some homemade ketchup (page 73).

There are three main steps involved—cooking the mushroom filling, mixing the meatloaf, and wrapping it in the puff pastry assembly. You can do any of these steps, or all of them, one day in advance.

Makes 8 servings

MUSHROOM FILLING:

4 OUNCES BACON (ABOUT 3 STRIPS), CHOPPED

1 LARGE SHALLOT, FINELY CHOPPED

1 POUND CREMINI MUSHROOMS, FINELY CHOPPED

⅓ CUP DRY RED WINE

3 GARLIC CLOVES, MINCED

½ TEASPOON SALT

¼ CUP LIGHTLY PACKED CHOPPED FRESH PARSLEY

MEATLOAF:

1½ CUP ROLLED (OR OLD-FASHIONED) OATS

½ CUP LOW-SALT BEEF STOCK (SHORT ORDER STOCK, PAGE 226; ROASTED BEEF STOCK, PAGE 228)

3 EGGS

1 TABLESPOON DIJON MUSTARD

2 TEASPOONS CHOPPED FRESH THYME OR 1 TEASPOON DRIED

2 TEASPOONS SALT

½ TEASPOON BLACK PEPPER

⅛ TEASPOON GROUND NUTMEG

1¾ POUNDS GROUND BEEF, 85 TO 90 PERCENT LEAN

8 OUNCES GROUND PORK

1 (17-OUNCE) PACKAGE FROZEN PUFF PASTRY, THAWED

To prepare the mushroom filling, line a small bowl with paper towel. Heat a large skillet over medium-low heat and cook the bacon until the fat melts and the bacon browns, about 5 minutes. Use a slotted spoon to remove the bacon to the paper towel-lined bowl.

Drain all but 1 tablespoon of bacon fat and increase the heat to medium. Cook the shallot for 1 minute until fragrant, then increase the heat to medium high. Add the mushrooms and cook until they have released their liquid, about 4 minutes. Add the wine, garlic, and salt and cook, stirring occasionally, until the mushrooms brown in spots, 7 to 8 minutes. Stir in the reserved bacon and the parsley and transfer to a bowl. Chill the mushroom mixture in the refrigerator until completely cooled, about 15 minutes.

To make the meatloaf, combine the oats, stock, 2 of the eggs, mustard, thyme, salt, pepper, and nutmeg in a large mixing bowl. Break up the ground beef and pork into the bowl and knead the ingredients together gently using your hands until thoroughly blended.

Line a 6-ounce ramekin or a large muffin tin with plastic wrap so that it overhangs by a couple of inches. Gently pack it with the meatloaf mixture to mold it, then lift up the overhanging plastic wrap release a miniature meatloaf. Repeat to make 8 meatloaf rounds. Chill them until ready to use.

Prepare an egg wash by whisking the remaining egg with 1 tablespoon of water and set it aside along with a pastry brush. Roll out each of the 2 sheets of the puff pastry on a lightly flour-dusted counter top into squares 15 x 15 inches and cut each into 4 equal pieces to make a total of 8 squares.

To make each meatloaf Wellington, put 2 heaping tablespoons of the mushroom mixture in the center of each puff pastry square. Place each meat-loaf round on top of the mushrooms and brush the edges of the puff pastry with the egg wash. Wrap the puff pastry around the meatloaf, overlapping the bottom and pleating the sides. Invert the meat-loaf so that the seam side is down on an ungreased baking sheet and brush it all over with the egg wash. Use a paring knife to cut a small X in the center of the puff pastry dough about ¼-inch deep. Chill the wrapped meatloaves for at least 25 minutes and up to 1 day in advance.

When you are ready to bake, preheat the oven to 400°F with a rack positioned in the center of the oven. Bake the meatloaves until the crusts are deeply golden brown and an instant-read thermometer registers 155°F, 30 to 35 minutes. Cool on a rack for 15 minutes and serve.

BABY MEATBALLS IN TOMATO-BASIL SAUCE

These two-bite meatballs, tender with ricotta, simmer in a simple tomato sauce. They lend their flavors to the sauce and save you the step of browning them first, so you can have dinner ready in twenty minutes. This is the way to enjoy a spaghetti and meatball supper any day of the week or a meatball sandwich on toasted ciabatta.

Makes 6 servings

TOMATO SAUCE:

2 TABLESPOONS EXTRA-VIRGIN OLIVE OIL

3 GARLIC CLOVES, MINCED

¼ TEASPOON RED PEPPER FLAKES

1 (28-OUNCE) CAN CRUSHED TOMATOES

½ CUP DRY RED WINE

½ CUP LIGHTLY PACKED CHOPPED FRESH BASIL OR 1 TABLESPOON DRIED

MEATBALLS:

1 GARLIC CLOVE, MINCED

½ CUP WHOLE MILK RICOTTA

⅔ CUP FINE, DRY BREADCRUMBS

1 EGG, BEATEN

¼ CUP LIGHTLY PACKED CHOPPED FRESH PARSLEY

¼ CUP FINELY GRATED PARMESAN CHEESE

1 TEASPOON SALT

¼ TEASPOON BLACK PEPPER

1 POUND GROUND BEEF, 85 TO 90 PERCENT LEAN

To make the tomato sauce, heat the olive oil over medium heat in a large saucepan. Add the garlic and the pepper flakes and cook until they sizzle and become fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the tomatoes, wine, and basil and bring to a simmer.

To prepare the meatballs, have a large dinner plate and a tablespoon-sized scoop or two teaspoons on hand. Combine the garlic, ricotta, breadcrumbs, egg, parsley, Parmesan cheese, salt, and pepper in a medium mixing bowl. Break up the ground beef into the bowl and knead the ingredients with a rubber spatula or your hands until thoroughly blended. Use the rounded scoop or spoons to make ½-ounce knobs of the ground beef mixture, the size of a large gumball, and space them around the plate. Moisten your hands with water and roll the meatballs into uniform spheres.

To cook the meatballs, gently plop each one into the simmering sauce. Spoon the sauce over their tops, cover the pot, and simmer over low heat for 18 to 20 minutes, until the meat changes color all the way through (cut one in half to test).

JOE’S SPECIAL

A lot of people take credit for creating this dish, a winning combination of ground beef, mushrooms, and spinach made famous in San Francisco. To make my own version, I strived to get the texture of the eggs just the way I like them, a little like a frittata with well-seasoned ground beef, heavy on the spinach, and melted Monterey Jack on top. It’s a lifesaving one-skillet dish for a late-night supper or a sleep-in Sunday brunch served with hot buttered toast. Pass the hot sauce.

Makes 6 servings

1 TABLESPOON EXTRA-VIRGIN OLIVE OIL

1 MEDIUM ONION, CHOPPED

8 OUNCES MUSHROOMS, SLICED

12 OUNCES GROUND BEEF, 85 TO 90 PERCENT LEAN

2 GARLIC CLOVES, MINCED

½ TEASPOON DRIED MARJORAM OR OREGANO

1¼ TEASPOONS SALT

¼ TEASPOON BLACK PEPPER

1 POUND FRESH BABY SPINACH OR 1 (10-OUNCE) BAG FROZEN CHOPPED SPINACH, THAWED AND DRAINED

10 EGGS

1 TEASPOON WORCESTERSHIRE SAUCE

2 CUPS GRATED MONTEREY JACK CHEESE

Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium high. When it shimmers add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until it begins to brown, about 6 minutes. Add the mushrooms and leave them to cook until they release their liquid and brown in spots, about 8 minutes. Add the ground beef, break it up with a wooden spoon, and season it with the garlic, marjoram, salt, and pepper. Cook, continuing to break up the ground beef until it is evenly browned, about 4 minutes. Mound the spinach on top of the beef, cover, and steam until the spinach wilts. Uncover, stir the spinach into the ground beef, and cook until the pan is nearly dry.

Reduce the heat to low and preheat the broiler. Beat the eggs in a bowl with the Worcestershire sauce. Pour the eggs into the skillet, allow the eggs to set on the bottom of the skillet for 1 minute, and then stir to make large curds with puddles of eggs in between. Leave the eggs to set on the bottom for 1 minute longer then stir once more. Turn off the heat but leave the skillet on the burner. Sprinkle on the cheese and place the skillet under the broiler until the eggs are no longer liquid and the cheese is melted, about 2 minutes.

FETA-STUFFED SLIDERS WITH TAHINI-YOGURT SAUCE

These mini-burgers are inspired by the Turkish grain-enriched stuffed meatballs called kibbeh with a feta surprise in their centers. Shaped into mini-burgers called sliders, baked, pan-fried, or grilled, they’re dolloped with the zesty yogurt sauce and sprinkled with sumac, a citrusy, rust-colored spice common in Middle Eastern and North African cooking that is simply fabulous with beef. Presented between pita triangles for the bun, they’re fun to serve as a casual dinner or party appetizer.

Makes 6 to 8 servings as a main dish; 12 to 16 as an appetizer

YOGURT SAUCE:

¾ CUP (5 OUNCES) PLAIN, THICK YOGURT, PREFERABLY GREEK-STYLE

2 TABLESPOONS TAHINI (SESAME SEED PASTE), STIRRED UNTIL SMOOTH

1 GARLIC CLOVE, MINCED

2 TEASPOONS LEMON JUICE

⅛ TEASPOON SALT

¼ CUP FINELY CHOPPED FRESH MINT

SLIDERS:

1 CUP BULGUR

½ CUP GRATED ONION

1½ TEASPOONS GROUND CUMIN

1¼ TEASPOONS SALT

1 TEASPOON SWEET PAPRIKA

⅛ TEASPOON CAYENNE

1½ POUNDS GROUND BEEF, 75 TO 85 PERCENT LEAN

2 OUNCES FETA CHEESE

5 PITA BREADS, CUT INTO QUARTERS FOR SERVING

2 TABLESPOONS COARSELY GROUND SUMAC FOR SERVING, OPTIONAL (SOURCES, PAGE 272)

Make the yogurt sauce by stirring together the yogurt, tahini, garlic, lemon juice, salt, and mint in a small serving bowl until well blended. Thin it with 1 tablespoon cool water to make 1 cup. Taste for lemon juice and salt and set it aside to let the flavors develop until ready to serve. (You can make this up to 1 day ahead and store it in the refrigerator overnight, then let it sit at room temperature for 1 hour before serving.)

To make the sliders, bring a teakettle of water to a boil. Put the bulgur in a large mixing bowl and stir in 1 cup boiling water. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and leave it to swell and absorb all the water, about 15 minutes. Add the the onion, cumin, salt, paprika, and cayenne to the bulgur and stir to combine. Break up the ground beef into the bowl and gently mix with a rubber spatula or your hands to blend it thoroughly.

Preheat the oven to 350°F and lightly grease a baking sheet. Break the feta into marble-sized pieces to have enough for each slider. Use a ¼-cup measuring cup to portion the ground beef mixture. Moisten your hands and shape the portions into balls, and use your thumb to press a piece of feta into the center of each. Press the balls into ¾-inch patties about 2½ inches wide and space them on the baking sheet. You’ll have 18 to 20 sliders.

Bake the patties until they are walnut brown, 15 to 17 minutes and remove them with a metal spatula (the bulgur tends to grab a little bit). Alternatively, pan-fry them in 1 tablespoon of olive oil in a skillet over medium-high heat or grill them on a preheated medium-high charcoal or gas grill (375°F to 425°F)for 3 to 3½ minutes per side.

To serve the sliders, sandwich each one inside a pita triangle with a sprinkle of sumac and a spoonful of the reserved yogurt sauce.

SHEPHERD’S PIE

Around here, shepherd’s pie is an old stand-by that sheepherders like my friend Pam Royes and her husband Skip cooked years ago on tiny wood-burning stoves in their camps in Hell’s Canyon. (They always ate beef, not lamb, which technically makes this cottage pie in the United Kingdom, but here it’s still shepherd’s.) There’s nothing more nourishing than golden-browned mashed potatoes blanketing a belly-warming, well-seasoned ground beef filling. The art of this dish is its simplicity of ingredients, provided they are market fresh and the ground beef is top quality. I serve this to friends straight from my favorite four-inch-deep cast-iron pot accompanied by nothing more than a leafy green salad.

Makes 6 servings

FILLING:

2 TABLESPOONS UNSALTED BUTTER

1 LARGE ONION, CHOPPED

2 CARROTS, CHOPPED

1 POUND GROUND BEEF, 85 TO 90 PERCENT LEAN

1¼ TEASPOONS SALT

⅛ TEASPOON BLACK PEPPER

2 TABLESPOONS ALL-PURPOSE FLOUR

1¾ CUPS LOW-SALT BEEF STOCK (SHORT ORDER STOCK, PAGE 226; ROASTED BEEF STOCK, PAGE 228)

1 CUP FROZEN GREEN PEAS

TOPPING:

2 POUNDS RUSSET POTATOES (ABOUT 3 LARGE), SCRUBBED AND QUARTERED

3 GARLIC CLOVES, PEELED

½ CUP WARM MILK

3 TABLESPOONS UNSALTED BUTTER, SOFTENED

1¼ TEASPOONS SALT

⅛ TEASPOON BLACK PEPPER

PINCH OF GROUND NUTMEG

1 EGG, BEATEN

To make the filling, melt the butter in a large, deep, oven-safe skillet over medium heat. Add the onion and carrots and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion softens and begins to brown, about 8 minutes. Add the ground beef, salt, and pepper and break up the beef into crumbles. Cook, stirring, until the beef is no longer pink.

Add the flour and stir until it absorbs all the moisture in the pan, about 1 minute. Stir in the stock, scraping the bottom of the pan to incorporate all of the flour. Reduce the heat to low and simmer until the carrots are tender, about 10 minutes. Take the skillet off the heat, taste for salt and pepper, and stir in the peas. (You can prepare the shepherd’s pie filling up to 2 days in advance and reheat on the stovetop before proceeding with the recipe.)

Meanwhile, make the topping by putting the potatoes and garlic cloves in a stockpot and adding enough cool water to cover them by 1 inch. Bring the water to a boil over medium-high heat then reduce the heat to low and simmer the potatoes until they are fork tender, 15 to 20 minutes. Drain the potatoes well, setting aside the garlic cloves, and return them to the pot to steam dry for 5 minutes.

Put the milk and butter into a large mixing bowl. Slip the skins from the potatoes and pass them through a ricer or food mill or hand mash them in the bowl, blending in the reserved garlic cloves, butter, and milk until smooth. Season the mashed potatoes with the salt, pepper, and nutmeg and taste them for seasoning. Whisk in the egg until the mashed potatoes are smooth and light.

Preheat the broiler to medium high with the top rack placed 8 inches below the element. Spread and smooth the mashed potatoes over the top of the filling to make the top “crust.” Broil the shepherd’s pie until the top is evenly golden brown, 8 to 10 minutes.

MORE CHOICE CUTS:

Top round steak, chopped finely by hand, will bring great texture to the filling, and it can be used just like the ground beef in this recipe.

Leftover pot roast (page 104) or roast beef (page 110), anywhere from 12 to 16 ounces, can be chopped and mixed into the filling once the gravy has thickened.

REAL TAMALE PIE

For several years, I hosted a tamale party once a year and my canning and gardening friends joined in the labors. We learned why Mexican families make tamales only at holiday time. Individual tamales are labor intensive. Since my family loves them, I looked for a speedier way, and the result was this pie.

Made with a masa harina crust you shape with your hands, this pie contains a mild ground beef filling chunky with squash, pinto beans, and the sweet surprise of golden raisins. (If using dried beans, you’ll need to cook them in advance.) The crust bakes up tender and light, a wonderful switch from the standard cornbread topping. Serve this pie for a carefree dinner with friends accompanied by sour cream, avocado wedges, and salsa, such as Roasted Corn Salsa (page 175).

Makes 8 servings

DOUGH:

2 CUPS (10 OUNCES) MASA HARINA

1 TEASPOON BAKING POWDER

¾ TEASPOON SALT

1½ CUPS LOW-SALT BEEF STOCK (SHORT ORDER STOCK, PAGE 226; ROASTED BEEF STOCK, PAGE 228), CHICKEN STOCK, OR WATER

⅔ CUP (4½ OUNCES) LARD OR VEGETABLE SHORTENING

FILLING:

1 TABLESPOON VEGETABLE OIL

1 MEDIUM ONION, CHOPPED

1 POBLANO OR GREEN PEPPER, SEEDED AND CHOPPED

1½ POUNDS GROUND BEEF, 85 TO 90 PERCENT LEAN

2¼ TEASPOONS SALT

1½ TEASPOONS GROUND CUMIN

1 TEASPOON DRIED OREGANO, PREFERABLY MEXICAN

½ TEASPOON GROUND CINNAMON

¼ TEASPOON CHILE POWDER

2 GARLIC CLOVES, MINCED

1 (14-OUNCE) CAN DICED TOMATOES WITH THEIR JUICE

½ POUND SMALL CHAYOTE OR ZUCCHINI SQUASH, CHOPPED

1½ CUP COOKED PINTO BEANS OR 1 (15-OUNCE) CAN PINTO BEANS, DRAINED AND RINSED

½ CUP GOLDEN RAISINS, CHOPPED

For the dough, mix the masa harina, baking powder, and salt in a large mixing bowl. Heat the stock in a pot over medium-high heat until warm. Mix it into the dry ingredients with a fork to make a soft dough. Beat the lard in a standing mixer with the paddle attachment on high speed until smooth and light, about 2 minutes. Add the masa dough and beat on medium speed for 5 minutes to make a thick, fluffy, and tacky dough. Cover the dough with plastic wrap and let it rest at room temperature for 30 minutes.

Meanwhile, make the pie filling. Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the onion and pepper and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion turns translucent, about 3 minutes. Add the ground beef, salt, cumin, oregano, cinnamon, and chile powder. Cook, breaking up the ground beef into small clusters, until it turns brown. Add the garlic and tomatoes and reduce the heat to low. Simmer until it is as thick as chili, about 5 minutes. Stir in the chayote, pinto beans, and raisins and set aside to cool slightly.

Preheat the oven to 400°F. Spoon the ground beef mixture into a 13 x 9-inch baking dish. Dampen your hands and press the masa onto a piece of wax paper or plastic wrap into a rectangle roughly 13 x 9 inches. Flip it over on top of the pie filling and peel off the paper or plastic. Use your fingers to pinch the crust to the edges and patch any cracks. Bake the pie until the masa dough is springy to the touch in the center and looks dry on the surface, 25 to 30 minutes. Cool for 15 minutes on a wire rack before cutting into serving pieces.

BOLOGNESE MEAT SAUCE

For me, there is no better partner for pasta than this decadent and thick Italian meat sauce. It’s really a stew of ground beef braised in wine, milk, and beef stock. A touch of porcini mushrooms highlights the earthy flavors of the beef, especially grassfed. Boiled spaghetti, taglietelle, or bucatini, which is hollow, all handle this substantial sauce well. Serve any of them showered with freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano. For two gluten-free options, try spaghetti squash described in the variation or the make-ahead Polenta Torta (recipe follows).

Makes 4 cups

1 OUNCE DRIED PORCINI MUSHROOMS

3 TABLESPOONS EXTRA-VIRGIN OLIVE OIL

2 OUNCES PANCETTA OR BACON, FINELY CHOPPED (ABOUT ½ CUP)

1 MEDIUM ONION, FINELY CHOPPED

1 CARROT, FINELY CHOPPED

1 CELERY STALK, FINELY CHOPPED

1 POUND GROUND BEEF, 85 TO 90 PERCENT LEAN

¼ TEASPOON RED PEPPER FLAKES

3 GARLIC CLOVES, MINCED

1¼ TEASPOONS SALT

⅛ TEASPOON BLACK PEPPER

2 TABLESPOONS TOMATO PASTE

½ CUP DRY WHITE WINE

¾ CUP WHOLE MILK

1 CUP LOW-SALT BEEF STOCK (SHORT ORDER STOCK, PAGE 226; ROASTED BEEF STOCK, PAGE 228) OR WATER

Bring a teakettle of water to a boil. Put the dried mushrooms in a small bowl, cover with 1 cup boiling water, and let them soak for 20 minutes. Drain the mushrooms, reserving the soaking liquid, and chop them finely. Strain the soaking liquid and set it aside.

Heat the oil in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add the chopped mushrooms, pancetta, onion, carrot, and celery and cook until the pancetta and vegetables begin to brown, stirring occasionally, about 12 minutes. Add the ground beef, pepper flakes, garlic, salt, and pepper and cook, breaking up the ground beef with a wooden spoon, until it changes color, about 5 minutes. Stir in the tomato paste and cook, stirring occasionally, until the meat begins to brown in the bottom of the pan, about 12 minutes.

Reduce the heat to low, pour in the wine, milk, stock, and the reserved mushroom soaking liquid. Use the spoon to scrape the bottom of the pan clean. Simmer the sauce partially covered until it is very thick, 1½ to 1¾ hours.

NOTE: When tossing this sauce with pasta, reserve ¼ cup of the pasta cooking water to splash in if it seems too dry or “tight.”

VARIATION: SPAGHETTI SQUASH BOLOGNESE

While the Bolognese is simmering, split, seed, and microwave a medium spaghetti squash (about 3 pounds) one half at a time for 12 minutes on high heat or bake cut side down on a baking sheet at 350°F until you can pierce it with a fork, about 1 hour. Use a fork to scrape the flesh into long strands into a medium mixing bowl. While it’s still warm, toss it with 2 tablespoons of unsalted butter or olive oil and serve it in place of pasta topped with the Bolognese Meat Sauce.

POLENTA TORTA

Made in layers, like lasagna (only gluten-free), this torta sandwiches Bolognese Meat Sauce (page 90) within golden layers of polenta. It’s baked in a springform pan and unmolded to reveal its eye-catching layers. This torta is actually unfussy to make and can be fully assembled up to two days in advance. It makes a light yet richly flavored meal, so I serve it with a simple spinach salad tossed with balsamic vinaigrette.

Makes 8 servings

1½ CUPS POLENTA OR COARSE CORNMEAL

1¼ TEASPOONS SALT, DIVIDED

½ CUP LIGHTLY PACKED CHOPPED FRESH BASIL, DIVIDED

3 CUPS (ABOUT 15 OUNCES) BOLOGNESE MEAT SAUCE (PAGE 90), DIVIDED

2 CUPS GRATED MOZZARELLA CHEESE, DIVIDED

1 (14-OUNCE) CAN CRUSHED TOMATOES, DRAINED

½ CUP FINELY GRATED PARMESAN CHEESE

Bring 4 cups of water to a boil in a large saucepan over medium-high heat. Whisk the polenta with 1½ cups tepid water and ¾ teaspoon of the salt in a medium mixing bowl to prevent lumping. Whisk the polenta mixture into the boiling water until smooth. Reduce the heat to low, cover, and cook the polenta for 30 minutes, stirring vigorously about every 10 minutes.

Meanwhile, oil a 9-inch springform pan. Wrap the bottom with aluminum foil and center it on a baking sheet. Preheat the oven to 375°F.

Mix ¼ cup of the chopped basil into the Bolognese sauce. Working while the polenta is still hot and spreadable, dollop one-third of it into the prepared pan. Use a rubber spatula to smooth it all the way to the edges into a layer about ½ inch thick. Spoon on 1½ cups of the Bolognese sauce and smooth it into an even layer not quite to the edges. Sprinkle on 1 cup of the mozzarella cheese. Repeat the layers by smoothing ½ of the remaining polenta on top of the meat, adding the remaining 1½ cups Bolognese sauce, and topping it with the remaining 1 cup of mozzarella. Complete the torta with a layer of the remaining polenta. Mix the tomatoes and the remaining ¼ cup chopped basil together in a bowl and pour it over the top. Sprinkle on the Parmesan cheese.

Bake the torta uncovered until the edges are bubbling and the cheese is melted and beginning to turn golden, 20 to 25 minutes. (If you made the torta in advance and it has been refrigerated, bake it for an additional 15 minutes). Let the torta stand for 15 minutes before removing the sides of the springform pan and slicing into wedges.

CHIPOTLE AND CORN SLOPPY JOES

I have fond memories of eating mild-mannered sloppy joes—that thick ground beef and tomato chili that “slops” out of the bun—in my youth. When I grew up and learned about chipotles, the smoked jalapeño that gives anything a full-flavored kick, I couldn’t live without it in this recipe. Follow the great American tradition and serve this to a crowd on a Sunday during football season on Whole-Wheat Hamburger Buns (page 72), or treat this as you would any chili: spoon it over rice or biscuits, wrap it in tortillas, or make nachos. You can also turn it into a taco salad by serving it over chopped romaine with salsa, sour cream, and, if you dare, pickled jalapeño slices.

Makes 6 servings with leftovers

1 TABLESPOON VEGETABLE OIL

1 SMALL ONION, FINELY CHOPPED

1 POUND GROUND BEEF, 85 TO 90 PERCENT LEAN

2 GARLIC CLOVES, MINCED

1 CHIPOTLE, FINELY CHOPPED*

1 (14-OUNCE) CAN DICED TOMATOES, WITH THEIR JUICE

1 HEAPING TABLESPOON TOMATO PASTE

1 (10-OUNCE) PACKAGE FROZEN CORN KERNELS (ABOUT 2½ CUPS)

1½ TEASPOONS GROUND CUMIN

½ TEASPOON GROUND CINNAMON

¼ TEASPOON DRIED OREGANO

¾ TEASPOON SALT

Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. When it shimmers, add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until translucent, about 2 minutes. Add the ground beef, and cook, breaking it up with a wooden spoon until it is no longer pink, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic, chipotle, tomatoes, tomato paste, corn, cumin, cinnamon, oregano, and salt and stir until well blended. Reduce the heat to low and simmer until it is thickened and there are no puddles of liquid, 9 to 10 minutes. Taste for seasoning before serving.

NOTE: Chipotle peppers are most readily available in a 7-ounce can labeled “chipotles in adobo sauce.” Add some of the sauce along with the chopped chile if you like more heat.

LEMONY CHARD BUNDLES

There is no leafy green I love more than Swiss chard. I use it to wrap up this Greek-style stuffing with beef, pork, and plenty of fresh parsley and dill to make handsome dark-green chard rolls. Once the rolls come out of the oven, I douse them with the simply made lemon sauce. Serve these rolls with orzo or rice pilaf on the side.

Makes 6 servings

ROLLS:

12 LARGE SWISS CHARD LEAVES, ROUGHLY 9 INCHES LONG

1 SMALL ONION, VERY FINELY CHOPPED

2 GARLIC CLOVES, MINCED

¼ CUP LIGHTLY PACKED CHOPPED FRESH PARSLEY

3 TABLESPOONS LIGHTLY PACKED CHOPPED FRESH DILL OR 1 TEASPOON DRIED

1¼ TEASPOONS SALT

⅛ TEASPOON BLACK PEPPER

8 OUNCES GROUND BEEF, 85 TO 90 PERCENT LEAN

6 OUNCES GROUND PORK

4 TABLESPOONS SALTED BUTTER, MELTED

LEMON SAUCE:

1 TEASPOON CORNSTARCH

1 TABLESPOON FRESHLY SQUEEZED LEMON JUICE

2 EGG YOLKS

¼ TEASPOON SALT

½ CUP LOW-SALT BEEF STOCK (SHORT ORDER STOCK, PAGE 226; ROASTED BEEF STOCK, PAGE 228) OR WATER

To make the chard rolls, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over medium-high heat. Use a paring knife to trim the thick stems from the base of each chard leaf, notching into the leaf to cut off the widest part. Chop the stems into 1-inch lengths and put them into an 8- or 9-inch square baking dish. Use tongs to dip each leaf into the boiling water for 30 seconds, shake to drain, and drape them around the edge of a colander to drain and cool. Repeat this procedure with the remaining chard leaves.

Put the onion, garlic, parsley, dill, salt, and pepper in a large mixing bowl. Break up the ground beef and pork into the bowl and use a rubber spatula or your hands to mix it well.

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Work with one chard leaf at a time with the rib side up. Place ¼ cup of the ground beef mixture at the base of the leaf and press it into a log about 4 inches wide. Roll up the leaf around it, tucking in the sides, and rolling all the way to the tip. Place the chard roll on top of the chard stems in the baking dish with the seam side down. Repeat with the remaining leaves and crowd them into the baking dish. Drizzle them with the melted butter. (You can prepare them up to this point 1 day ahead.) Cover the baking dish securely with aluminum foil and bake until the chard is easily pierced with a fork and the meat is cooked through to 155°F on an instant-read thermometer, 40 to 45 minutes.

Meanwhile, make the sauce by whisking the cornstarch with the lemon juice in a small mixing bowl until smooth. Add the yolks and the salt and whisk until smooth and lightened in color. Bring the stock to a boil over medium-high heat in a small saucepan. Drizzle some of the hot liquid into the cornstarch mixture and whisk rapidly. Put the saucepan over low heat and whisk all of the cornstarch mixture into the saucepan. Cook without boiling until it thickens, about 1 minute. Spoon the sauce over the chard rolls just before serving with a portion of the chard stems.

VARIATION: CABBAGE ROLLS

If you prefer cabbage, boil a small, cored Savoy or green cabbage in plenty of salted water until the outer leaves can be peeled away, about 4 minutes. Since the leaves are larger, make 8 rolls (instead of 12). Roll, bake, and sauce as directed.

BEEF RAVIOLI

with Sage Butter Sauce

When a day comes along that I have time for a kitchen project, I often opt for making homemade ravioli. This recipe makes thirty large ravioli (I plan on five per serving) to freeze for a dinner party or an extra-special weeknight supper down the road.

Mix the pasta dough and let it rest while you make the uncooked filling. Roll the dough into sheets using a pasta machine, or with a confident hand using a rolling pin, then fill, seal, and boil, or freeze for up to three months. Boil them directly from the freezer to serve at your whim in sage butter sauce or slip one into a bowl of Crystal Clear Consommé (page 231) for an impressive first course light on the beef.

Makes 6 servings for a main course; 15 servings for an appetizer

PASTA:

4 CUPS (18 OUNCES) ALL-PURPOSE FLOUR, PLUS ADDITIONAL FOR DUSTING

6 EGGS, BEATEN

FILLING:

1 GARLIC CLOVE, PEELED

1 SMALL ONION, CHOPPED

1 SMALL CARROT, CHOPPED

1 CELERY STALK, CHOPPED

1 EGG

1 CUP FINELY GRATED PARMESAN CHEESE, PLUS ADDITIONAL FOR SERVING

8 OUNCES GROUND BEEF, 85 TO 90 PERCENT LEAN

½ TEASPOON SALT

⅛ TEASPOON BLACK PEPPER

SAGE BUTTER SAUCE:

12 TABLESPOONS SALTED BUTTER, CHILLED, CUT INTO CUBES, AND DIVIDED

¼ CUP FINELY CHOPPED FRESH SAGE

FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER

MORE CHOICE CUTS:

Leftover pot roast or braises, cooled and chopped, are ideal ready-made ravioli fillings.

To make the pasta dough by hand, put the flour in a bowl and make a well in the center. Pour the eggs in the center and use a fork to whisk the flour into the eggs, working progressively toward the outer rim of the bowl to gradually incorporate the flour into a dough. When you have a rough dough, begin kneading it with your hands. Once the dough is fairly smooth, dust the counter with flour and lift the dough from the bowl, discarding all the raggedy bits of flour. Knead the dough until it is satiny smooth and firm, 10 to 12 minutes. Dust the dough with flour, wrap it in plastic, and let it rest for 30 minutes at room temperature.

To make the pasta dough in a food processor, put the flour and eggs in the food processor bowl fitted with the plastic dough blade. Attach the cover and turn on the machine until a dough forms, about 1 minute. If there is stray flour, add 1 teaspoon water at a time through the feed tube to make a cohesive dough slightly tacky to the touch. Knead the dough by hand on a lightly floured counter until it is satiny smooth. Dust the dough with flour, wrap it in plastic, and let it rest for 30 minutes at room temperature.

To make the filling, purée the garlic, onion, carrot, celery, egg, and Parmesan in a food processor, scraping down the sides once or twice, until very finely chopped. Add the ground beef, salt, and pepper and pulse 8 to 10 times until it is minced and well blended. (You can make the filling up to 1 day in advance and store it in the refrigerator until ready to use.)

Fill a small bowl with water and have a pastry brush on hand. Sprinkle a baking sheet with flour and set it aside. Dust the counter lightly with all-purpose flour. Cut the dough into 4 pieces, keeping the unused dough covered. Roll the dough through a pasta machine into wide strips according to the manufacturer’s instructions, progressively making them thinner until your hand is a shadow behind the sheet of pasta. Alternatively, roll out the dough by hand, dusting the counter lightly as needed to make an even, ultra-thin sheet you can almost see through.

Use a round cutter about 3 inches in diameter to cut circles spaced as closely together as you can. Dust the circles very lightly with flour to prevent sticking and keep them covered to prevent them from drying out while you continue to roll out and cut the remaining dough.

Place level tablespoon-sized dollops of the filling on half of the pasta circles, brush the edges lightly with water, and top with another circle of pasta. Use your fingers to push air pockets away from the mounds of filling and press to seal the edges well. Gently pat the top of each ravioli to spread the filling out and so each one looks like a hat. Arrange them in a single layer on the baking sheet. (To freeze, put the baking sheet in the freezer until the ravioli are solid. Transfer into resealable freezer bags for storing.)

To cook the ravioli, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over medium-high heat and have a colander set into a large bowl on hand. Reduce the heat to low so that the water is simmering steadily and slip the ravioli into it. Simmer gently until the ravioli float to the surface, 3½ to 4 minutes. Collect them with a slotted spoon and let them drain in the colander briefly. Reserve ¼ cup of the pasta water.

Meanwhile, make the sauce by melting 6 tablespoons of the butter in a large skillet over low heat. Add the sage and cook until fragrant, about 2 minutes. Ladle ¼ cup of pasta water into the pan, bring it to a simmer, and whisk in the remaining 6 tablespoons of butter to make a light sauce. Slip the drained ravioli into the pan and shake it to coat them with the sauce before serving with black pepper and grated Parmesan to taste.

INDIAN-SPICED STUFFED PEPPERS

Baked stuffed peppers are often ho-hum to me, but these offer a harmony of enlivening flavors. Inspired by Julie Sahni’s ground beef recipe in Classic Indian Cooking, I spiced up the filling with coriander and cumin and perfumed the tomato sauce with garlic and ginger. This filling calls for quinoa (keen-wah), a marvelous, quick-cooking, high-protein grain. The peppers are lovely over a bed of simply sautéed greens, such as kale. You can also use the filling to give new life to summer’s supersized zucchini as detailed in the variation.

Makes 6 servings

FILLING:

2 TABLESPOONS VEGETABLE OIL

1 MEDIUM ONION, CHOPPED

1 TABLESPOON GROUND CORIANDER

1½ TEASPOONS GROUND CUMIN

¼ TEASPOON RED PEPPER FLAKES

1 POUND GROUND BEEF, 85 TO 90 PERCENT LEAN

1½ TEASPOONS SALT

1¼ CUPS QUINOA

8 SMALL RED, YELLOW, OR GREEN BELL PEPPERS

SAUCE:

1 (28-OUNCE) CAN WHOLE PEELED TOMATOES, DRAINED

2 GARLIC CLOVES, PEELED

1-INCH PIECE GINGER, PEELED

¾ TEASPOON SALT

To make the filling, heat the oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the onion, coriander, cumin, and pepper flakes, and cook, stirring now and then, until the onion softens and the spices smell toasted, about 6 minutes. Add the ground beef and the salt and cook, breaking it up into clusters with a spoon, until it is no longer pink. Reduce the heat to low and add the quinoa and 1½ cups water. Cover and simmer until the quinoa plumps and most of the liquid is absorbed, about 25 minutes.

Meanwhile, cut off the tops of the peppers and use a teaspoon to remove the seeds and ribs. Take a very thin slice off the bottom of each pepper to stabilize them and arrange them in a 13 x 9-inch baking dish. Pack them with the ground beef mixture. (You can prepare them to this point up to 2 days in advance.)

Preheat the oven to 375°F.

To make the sauce, purée the tomatoes, garlic, ginger, and salt in a blender or with an immersion blender to make a smooth sauce. Dollop it on top of each pepper and let it spill down the sides. Cover the baking dish securely with aluminum foil and cook until the peppers are fork tender, 35 to 40 minutes.

VARIATION: STUFFED ZUCCHINI ROUNDS

Use large zucchinis weighing 2 pounds or more. Trim the ends and cut the zucchini into 4-inch rounds. Stand each round up on end and use a small round cutter to punch out the seedy center, leaving at least a ½-inch wall. Alternately, use a paring knife to carve out the centers and discard them. Arrange the zucchini cylinders on end in the baking dish and fill, sauce, and bake as directed.